Thanks for the video. Did my starter yesterday and wow, what a PITA! FWIW I only had an E12 socket (not a box wrench). There isn't enough room between the firewall and the bolt head to fit a ratchet and socket, so I wound up accessing them from under the car by using 2-3 feet of 3/8 extensions stacked together to reach the two bolts over the transmission. This was a two man job as someone has to be on the top side to guide the socket to the bolts. Also, my starter bolts were super tight and I wonder if I would have been able to get them to turn with a box wrench in limited space. From the under the car I was able to use a pretty big breaker bar.
yeah, they are pretty tight. PITA for sure, you just have to work the bolts and make sure your box end wrench fits. I mentioned you can go from the bottom, but I personally prefer to go from the top. Either way replacing the starter is an ordeal!
This was a 'just take it to the mechanic' job. Box wrench broke in half from the top. Those bolts were on there tight! So after trying from the bottom by myself with the 3000lb car on top of me and the growing chance of stripping the bolt or being caught by the HOA.. I took it to the shop. $250 and a bruised ego.
yeah. It is certainly not an easy job or a fun one. noone wants to change the starter but if it goes bad you are kind of on your own. good on you for trying though! those housing bolts are on tight, and im sure 20 years of them being on tight doesnt help either.
Once again this absolute legend makes this job possible, other than the 15 cuts on my right hand from the lower starter bolt, his method is golden...due to the angle however, i found only an E14 spanner would bite...im running m44 mounts on my 328i maybe the engines sitting too far back?
Doing this job currently, story time: the top fastener on MY starter is a T47 torx (internal), NOT an external Torx like the rest of the transmission bolts. It's added a whole new level of pain in the ass. As far as I know this starter is original to my 1996 328is. With it's build date of 01/1996, it's right in the transition period where they went from one type of starter to the other. In all the guides to changing the starter, I've yet to see any with my particular internal torx bolt. I think what I need to do is cut off the bit part of my T47 socket, put a box end wrench around it, so it can insert into the bolt and then I can turn it with a pipe over the wrench, hopefully. We'll see. I'll probably replace that bolt, or, even better, tap and threat the bell housing hole and put the damn bolts back in with the heads facing FORWARD!
Replaced starter from underneath the car in my 320i in roughly 35 mins. 2/10 difficulty. No need for any silly manifold tearing… its 96’ tho, maybe older engine/gbox configs had an obstruction making it hard to reach from underneath?
Can I use an obdii/m52 starter on an obdi/M50? I want to switch to the threaded version so I don't have to remove my intake to drop the transmission. I noticed the only difference seems to be the mounting bracket.
Quick question if I’m dropping my transmission to change the clutch do I HAVE to remove the starter or can I disconnect the wires / ground that connects to the starter and drop the trans with the starter connected ??
I mean, you could try to leave it on. It might work, I have never heard of anyone doing it like that before. I find its easier to just pop it off, if you already that far down there what is 2 more bolts lol. if it works let me know hah good luck man
First of all thank you for both videos, they were super helpful but I am on a pickle here. I tried the e12 torx you recommended but it seems to be off center and it keeps popping off. I took a closer picture and the torx bolt is torn apart making the wrench pop off. This is not the top one but the one on the right, below the 3 lines. I am loosing my mind man as I can't get it off without damaging more the thread. Any idea on how to remove that little guy?
might be a PITA, but you could pop the exhaust off, then unbolt the trans crossmember and tilt the trans down, get an E12 socket with a long extension, smack it on with a hammer, then go at it from underneath...
3/8 box end wrench fits very well on star bolts.mine had 5/8 nuts and star bolt heads. Alson a 93 e36 thier is a 3rd mounting bolt to the block the front of the starting. Use a piece of meduim size hose to hold the wrench. Put it over the open end of 3/8 wrench. I think the early motors have a diffrent starter. I think mine was orginal. 24 years.
So i ordered a starter and when it came in it only has 1 little post and 2 big posts and doesnt have the other small post, it does look like the right starter but am i able to wire the two little wires from the previous starter on one post in the new starter, because that is was what they were insisting, i have a 1998 328is
I have a 1995 E34 2.5L 5 Speed M50 engine W/Vanos and my starter is bad. I'm planning to replace the starter but, this will be my first time doing it. Can I do it from underneath, without taking the manifold off? Thanks!
I decided to pull the intake manifold. I’m going to watch your manifold video to guide me. I appreciate your videos. I’m glad to see the young crowd doing something positive, rather than hanging out on a corner drinking 40 ounces and getting in trouble, popping babies and selling drugs. Good job. Much respect and thanks for the guide.
Hey man, what's the part number or size specs of the bolts holding the starter? I'm replacing mine but one of the bolts is slightly stripped and I'm having a hell of a time trying to break it loose so I'm gonna have to replace one of them. The other bolt came out no problem..
M3NACE thanks man! Any tips on getting that last bolt off? I don't think the wrench will do it, so I'm going to try dropping the transmission crossmember and tilting the trans/engine back a little and then using an e12 socket with like 4' of extensions.
I took off the manifold off my e36. I see 2 lines, one seems like a super hard plastic line that connects to the manifold, it also looks like it snapped in half, the other I have no idea where it connects too it’s a rubber hose that’s wrapped in some other material this line also attaches to the manifold. Can I dm you on ig or email for some help ?
Torx bolt heads - is to increase a pain in your ass. If you use a hex head on a normal, undamaged hex bolt, you would rather rip the bolt head off on that bolt than tear the edges off. Tested in practice by me.
Need advice. My starter bolt is about to strip. I'm using an E12 socket and the teeth on the bolt just started to turn so I stopped before it completely strips. Need advice on how to attack it. I can bang the socket in but, I'm afraid it won't work. If for some reason it strips, how to I get that bolt out? I have an angle grinder with a cutting 4in cuting wheel but, I don't think I have space to cut the head off. Suggestions? Thanks in advance!
So you can grind/cut it off if you need to. The best way is going to be a PITA. you will need to get the transmission tilted down to where you can get a straight shot from underneath on the bolt head. You might need to move some things out of your way, midpipe, driveshaft, ext. Have a jack underneath the trans to hold it, and unbolt the trans crossmember from the chassis and tilt it down with a jack. You will need a 3 foot 3/8 extension for this, as you will be removing it from the back of the trans. Get the socket and extension straight on and pound that MF with a hammer till it wont go anymore, then when you are taking it off with a long socket wrench breaker, keep a constant pushing-in pressure onto the bolt so it doesnt pop off.
@@M3NACE I had a feeling you were going to say that. LOL The teeth on the bolt head are a little twisted so, I'm going to pound that socket on that bolt head and put a breaker bar on it from above since I have the manifold off. If it strips, Then I'm going to have to grind it down and hope I don't hit the magnesium housing. Thanks for the advice and keep those drift progression videos coming!
@@M3NACE Bad news.. I snapped the head of the bolt. That bolt is on very tight. I have about an 8th of the head left on the bolt. Any suggestions on how to get that bolt out? I have an angle grinder and a HArbor Frieght 90 amp mig welder. I can't get the angle grinder down there but, I'm thinking of welding a 10mm nut to the head but, I'm concerned the weld won't hold. Thoughts? Thanks in advance..
@@iamurnamann8662 you can try welding a nut on and see if that helps. worst case i can imagine is you and a file and a few hours grinding it down. anything beyond that you might need to unbolt and lift the engine and pull it forward a bit to make room for the grinder....
did you really break the E12 torx loose with that wrench? or did you use some extension etc. I can reach it and fit the E12 wrench but man, it just won't budge. I even used an offset wrench as a breaker but i nearly broke the wrench.
@@M3NACE I’ll try again tomorrow, I really hope I can get it from the top. Thanks for this video btw. It is the only one showing the possibility from the top.
@@M3NACE decided it wasn't worth the risk of striping the bolts. did it from underneath. since I''m turbo''ed it meant taking of the exhaust too. but, I got it....
So the USDM M3's have a bored/stroked/cammed version of the M50/M52 motors instead of the euro motors. all factory USDM E36 M3's came with these valve cover's, so they are factroy. im sure if you look around on ebay you could find one. they fit the M50/M52's. the motor in this is not an M52, is is an S52.
I have something that threw me off completely. Mine is a 95 E36 manual 325iS M50 made in 03/1995. I have the manifold off and I find that mine has nuts on the front, no torx. RealOEM parts shows the 12mm torx bolt, but not mine. Is this a factory or after job?
@@M3NACE Thanks! Have you ever pulled the oil filter housing off? If so, what is the torque on the the housing bolts and the Vanos line with banjo washers bolts?
@@xman5649 i have, I have fully rebuilt several M/S5X engines. the vanos feed lines have copper crush washers on them, there is a torque spec for them but good and tight is enough as long as the crush washers actually engage/crush, think of it like a oil drain plug. get it snug, then give it like another 90-120 or so degrees and it will be fine.
@@juniorrat17 I had to remove my intake manifold to get the starter off cuz mine was stuck on the dowel, I hit my starter with a mallet and it came loose and I was able to pry them apart
The only downside of this video Quinn is that you didn't show yourself break loose those e torx bolts so im left wondering which direction to pull or push those bolts to break them loose, towards driver or passenger side?
@@M3NACE i appreciate the response! Thanks. Though i was able to get it off fairly easily today, your videos have helped me a lot nonetheless just this one time I was hesitant but I was able to figure it out and got them loose fairly easily by putting the box end wrench on it then using the jack handle for more leverage, made it many times easier. Thanks again !
hey you told us about where the black and red wire goes but where does the other 2 wires go is there 4 wires hooked up too this black and red on the the biggest one then one on 10 mm one and one on the 8 mm one can u tell me where the wires go please!
the two little ones go on their little pegs. the 8mm only fits on the 8mm thread and the 10mm wire only fits on the 10mm thread. the other two big wires go on the big post, the 13mm. they both go on there. watch from 6:00 on.
ok thanks and when you took off the intake manifold on the first video there are six holes behind it and some people will put paper towel in them while working on the car with the intake off what are they called and what are the little plugs inside of them called ive noticed some plugs are up and sealing the holes in there and some plugs have a gap in them and i can fit a tooth pick in them is this normal? and for the starter i connected the 2 big ones too the big post and there was another wire that was black on the top small post and another wire with some plastic stuff on the bottom wire is this correct.. been trying too fix this car for days and cant find awnsers on the internet.. the problem was when i turned my key the starter would spin and wouldn't engage the flywheel with out crank you would just hear spinning and then grinding and no start up, then after 5 tries the car would start up and i could drive that thing anywhere so i suspected it was the starter so i took it in had it tested and it is in working order supposably then i had the battery tested and it was a good battery they said and before all that i tested the fuel pump relay and it was good... any ideas?
the 6 oval shaped holes you refer too are the intake runners for the cylinder head, and the "plugs" are your valves. they are supposed to open and close, just be careful not to drop anything down in there, as you might mess something up internally in the motor depending on what you drop in there. If i were you, I would put paper towels down there to make sure you dont drop anything down the cylinders, as that could be a costly mistake. (rebuilt engine costly). it sounds like your starter solenoid is bad or is going bad. I would recommend replacing the starter, with a Brand new one or a refurbished one. dont buy one used unless you want to replace it again in the near future. while the starter is out, I would take a look at the ring gear on your flywheel. its a big gear that you can see from the hole where you took the starter out, you will be able to see some of the teeth on it. just look through the hole, it should be right there. look for any signs of fresh metal or if the teeth are broken/missing. if they are, you might want to replace your flywheel. once you get the new starter on, you can pull the fuel pump fuse out of the fuse box and then you can crank the motor with the intake manifold off (be sure to remove the paper towels from the 6 holes because they might get sucked in to the motor, and be sure nothing is around or near the holes cause it also might get sucked in) and you should be able to confirm that the starter is working. if it sounds normal and sounds consistently normal, like you took the key out and started it again and it cranks fine, then put your intake manifold back on. if not, I would start looking into the engine ground wires and clean those up.
ok thanks ill try that tommorow and let you know and when i was removing the top bolt on the starter i removed a hose not knowing what it was and it was the coolant hose and it all leaked out can i still crank the starter like you said with the fuel pump relay out and no coolant in the rad?
Ok so from my own stupidity I decided to try and start my car with the starter in gear (again totally not ideal as I'm about to tell you) git to the end of the driveway and now the car won't start. Put a new starter in and now it won't start. Could anyone help guide me to what the issue might be?
Goddamn it, boi! What's the part number to the starter you got? There are two starters with different part numbers and some share the same image for both starters. Confusing the f@#$ out me. I know I need the starter with the THICC flange.
sweet video bro!btw awesome headlights,was looking for a review for them,would you recommend them?if it is not asking too much,was it from eBay?thx in advance!
they are the ebay ones, yes. IMO they are not as clean as a good set of depos or euro glass lights, but they are better than stock ones for sure. I decided to go with them as they are clean enough, but i would rather spend the $400 extra that depos would have cost and spent it on other items on the car. have had them for 3 years and they have held up surprisingly well, however i will be upgrading them to depos in the future.
Great thx a lot!was thinking abt getting them too!after seeing your car ,it look pretty good!i think i will get it!great vid n great car,again thanks for your time!!
Thanks for the video. Did my starter yesterday and wow, what a PITA!
FWIW I only had an E12 socket (not a box wrench). There isn't enough room between the firewall and the bolt head to fit a ratchet and socket, so I wound up accessing them from under the car by using 2-3 feet of 3/8 extensions stacked together to reach the two bolts over the transmission. This was a two man job as someone has to be on the top side to guide the socket to the bolts.
Also, my starter bolts were super tight and I wonder if I would have been able to get them to turn with a box wrench in limited space. From the under the car I was able to use a pretty big breaker bar.
yeah, they are pretty tight. PITA for sure, you just have to work the bolts and make sure your box end wrench fits. I mentioned you can go from the bottom, but I personally prefer to go from the top. Either way replacing the starter is an ordeal!
Another quick tip, NO RATCHETING E TORX WRENCH, not enough clearance between the bolt and the bell housing
This was a 'just take it to the mechanic' job.
Box wrench broke in half from the top. Those bolts were on there tight! So after trying from the bottom by myself with the 3000lb car on top of me and the growing chance of stripping the bolt or being caught by the HOA.. I took it to the shop.
$250 and a bruised ego.
yeah. It is certainly not an easy job or a fun one. noone wants to change the starter but if it goes bad you are kind of on your own. good on you for trying though! those housing bolts are on tight, and im sure 20 years of them being on tight doesnt help either.
250 in labor sounds very cheap. Where are you located?
Once again this absolute legend makes this job possible, other than the 15 cuts on my right hand from the lower starter bolt, his method is golden...due to the angle however, i found only an E14 spanner would bite...im running m44 mounts on my 328i maybe the engines sitting too far back?
Yes only E14
Thanks Quinn. 😉 your DIY videos- helped me to change on my E36:
thermostat
inlet manifold
starter
gearbox fluid
more to come.🤷♂️👌
Doing this job currently, story time: the top fastener on MY starter is a T47 torx (internal), NOT an external Torx like the rest of the transmission bolts.
It's added a whole new level of pain in the ass. As far as I know this starter is original to my 1996 328is. With it's build date of 01/1996, it's right in the transition period where they went from one type of starter to the other.
In all the guides to changing the starter, I've yet to see any with my particular internal torx bolt.
I think what I need to do is cut off the bit part of my T47 socket, put a box end wrench around it, so it can insert into the bolt and then I can turn it with a pipe over the wrench, hopefully. We'll see. I'll probably replace that bolt, or, even better, tap and threat the bell housing hole and put the damn bolts back in with the heads facing FORWARD!
Dang! I have never seen or heard of inverted hardware before, i wonder if that is not original. I know VW and audi likes to use those.
Replaced starter from underneath the car in my 320i in roughly 35 mins. 2/10 difficulty. No need for any silly manifold tearing… its 96’ tho, maybe older engine/gbox configs had an obstruction making it hard to reach from underneath?
Kick Ass Instructions and video. Thank you for sharing.
Can I use an obdii/m52 starter on an obdi/M50? I want to switch to the threaded version so I don't have to remove my intake to drop the transmission. I noticed the only difference seems to be the mounting bracket.
i mean you can try, i have never heard of anyone going that route. as long as the wiring is the same and it bolts to the trans i dont see why not
@@M3NACE Guess I'll be the one to *hopefully* blaze a trail. Will report back in if it works.
@@herbienbrian2 good luck on your endeavours!
Quick question if I’m dropping my transmission to change the clutch do I HAVE to remove the starter or can I disconnect the wires / ground that connects to the starter and drop the trans with the starter connected ??
I mean, you could try to leave it on. It might work, I have never heard of anyone doing it like that before. I find its easier to just pop it off, if you already that far down there what is 2 more bolts lol. if it works let me know hah good luck man
M3NACE yeah I had to take off the starter last bolt on the starter was so hard to break Loose but I got it 😂 thanks man your videos help so much lol
no problem man!
Did u also disconnect the wires?
First of all thank you for both videos, they were super helpful but I am on a pickle here. I tried the e12 torx you recommended but it seems to be off center and it keeps popping off. I took a closer picture and the torx bolt is torn apart making the wrench pop off. This is not the top one but the one on the right, below the 3 lines. I am loosing my mind man as I can't get it off without damaging more the thread. Any idea on how to remove that little guy?
Solved it! I used a 3/8" wrench (the circle part) and a regular rachet as an extension ... Fitting the square on the other end. Worked perfect
might be a PITA, but you could pop the exhaust off, then unbolt the trans crossmember and tilt the trans down, get an E12 socket with a long extension, smack it on with a hammer, then go at it from underneath...
3/8 box end wrench fits very well on star bolts.mine had 5/8 nuts and star bolt heads. Alson a 93 e36 thier is a 3rd mounting bolt to the block the front of the starting. Use a piece of meduim size hose to hold the wrench. Put it over the open end of 3/8 wrench. I think the early motors have a diffrent starter. I think mine was orginal. 24 years.
Quick question, how tight are these bolts supposed to be? Im suffering here
So i ordered a starter and when it came in it only has 1 little post and 2 big posts and doesnt have the other small post, it does look like the right starter but am i able to wire the two little wires from the previous starter on one post in the new starter, because that is was what they were insisting, i have a 1998 328is
I have a 1995 E34 2.5L 5 Speed M50 engine W/Vanos and my starter is bad. I'm planning to replace the starter but, this will be my first time doing it. Can I do it from underneath, without taking the manifold off? Thanks!
yes, but you might need to drop the transmission. either way it is a ton of fun. good luck!
I decided to pull the intake manifold. I’m going to watch your manifold video to guide me. I appreciate your videos. I’m glad to see the young crowd doing something positive, rather than hanging out on a corner drinking 40 ounces and getting in trouble, popping babies and selling drugs. Good job. Much respect and thanks for the guide.
@@iamurnamann8662 some of us youngin's enjoy building more than drinking. lol good luck man! let me know if you have any questions.
Hey man, what's the part number or size specs of the bolts holding the starter? I'm replacing mine but one of the bolts is slightly stripped and I'm having a hell of a time trying to break it loose so I'm gonna have to replace one of them. The other bolt came out no problem..
BMW 328is part no. 07129904681my friend, you can get them fairly cheaply at the Dealership parts department. Realoem shows they are $1.64 each
M3NACE thanks man! Any tips on getting that last bolt off? I don't think the wrench will do it, so I'm going to try dropping the transmission crossmember and tilting the trans/engine back a little and then using an e12 socket with like 4' of extensions.
BMW 328is yeah that works, just put alot of pressure pushing into the bolt so it doesnt strip out on you, trans bolt extractions are super fun. Lol
M3NACE I've done the 5 speed swap on my car using a donor car so I know man haha just hoping there was another way
I took off the manifold off my e36. I see 2 lines, one seems like a super hard plastic line that connects to the manifold, it also looks like it snapped in half, the other I have no idea where it connects too it’s a rubber hose that’s wrapped in some other material this line also attaches to the manifold. Can I dm you on ig or email for some help ?
IG is best, hard plastic line is for the fuel pressure regulator, other one is for the secondary air pump IIRC
@@M3NACE I can leave the secondary air pump disconnected right ? And are there ways to fix a snapped Fpr? Or replacements. Thanks for the help
Torx bolt heads - is to increase a pain in your ass. If you use a hex head on a normal, undamaged hex bolt, you would rather rip the bolt head off on that bolt than tear the edges off. Tested in practice by me.
Need advice. My starter bolt is about to strip. I'm using an E12 socket and the teeth on the bolt just started to turn so I stopped before it completely strips. Need advice on how to attack it. I can bang the socket in but, I'm afraid it won't work. If for some reason it strips, how to I get that bolt out? I have an angle grinder with a cutting 4in cuting wheel but, I don't think I have space to cut the head off. Suggestions? Thanks in advance!
So you can grind/cut it off if you need to. The best way is going to be a PITA. you will need to get the transmission tilted down to where you can get a straight shot from underneath on the bolt head. You might need to move some things out of your way, midpipe, driveshaft, ext. Have a jack underneath the trans to hold it, and unbolt the trans crossmember from the chassis and tilt it down with a jack. You will need a 3 foot 3/8 extension for this, as you will be removing it from the back of the trans. Get the socket and extension straight on and pound that MF with a hammer till it wont go anymore, then when you are taking it off with a long socket wrench breaker, keep a constant pushing-in pressure onto the bolt so it doesnt pop off.
@@M3NACE I had a feeling you were going to say that. LOL The teeth on the bolt head are a little twisted so, I'm going to pound that socket on that bolt head and put a breaker bar on it from above since I have the manifold off. If it strips, Then I'm going to have to grind it down and hope I don't hit the magnesium housing. Thanks for the advice and keep those drift progression videos coming!
@@iamurnamann8662 will do man, good luck!!
@@M3NACE Bad news.. I snapped the head of the bolt. That bolt is on very tight. I have about an 8th of the head left on the bolt. Any suggestions on how to get that bolt out? I have an angle grinder and a HArbor Frieght 90 amp mig welder. I can't get the angle grinder down there but, I'm thinking of welding a 10mm nut to the head but, I'm concerned the weld won't hold. Thoughts? Thanks in advance..
@@iamurnamann8662 you can try welding a nut on and see if that helps. worst case i can imagine is you and a file and a few hours grinding it down. anything beyond that you might need to unbolt and lift the engine and pull it forward a bit to make room for the grinder....
what's your thoughts on switching the e torx junk heads for some standard head hed metric bolts ?
Do it
@@M3NACE i was hoping you were gonna say that lol got mine out last night... heated up and bent the e 14 wrench.
did you really break the E12 torx loose with that wrench? or did you use some extension etc. I can reach it and fit the E12 wrench but man, it just won't budge. I even used an offset wrench as a breaker but i nearly broke the wrench.
Yeah i got it with that little wrench. You could try going from the bottom but you might need to unbolt and tilt the transmission down
@@M3NACE I’ll try again tomorrow, I really hope I can get it from the top. Thanks for this video btw. It is the only one showing the possibility from the top.
@@uscp2 yeah its a PITA but persistance is key
@@M3NACE decided it wasn't worth the risk of striping the bolts. did it from underneath.
since I''m turbo''ed it meant taking of the exhaust too. but, I got it....
Where did u get the valve cover with BMW M power for an M52 engine? Is there a M50 engine version of the cover?
So the USDM M3's have a bored/stroked/cammed version of the M50/M52 motors instead of the euro motors. all factory USDM E36 M3's came with these valve cover's, so they are factroy. im sure if you look around on ebay you could find one. they fit the M50/M52's. the motor in this is not an M52, is is an S52.
I have something that threw me off completely. Mine is a 95 E36 manual 325iS M50 made in 03/1995. I have the manifold off and I find that mine has nuts on the front, no torx. RealOEM parts shows the 12mm torx bolt, but not mine. Is this a factory or after job?
obd2 car starters where threaded, obd1 were nut and bolted. torx on the transmission side, nuts on the engine side.
@@M3NACE Thanks! Have you ever pulled the oil filter housing off? If so, what is the torque on the the housing bolts and the Vanos line with banjo washers bolts?
@@xman5649 i have, I have fully rebuilt several M/S5X engines. the vanos feed lines have copper crush washers on them, there is a torque spec for them but good and tight is enough as long as the crush washers actually engage/crush, think of it like a oil drain plug. get it snug, then give it like another 90-120 or so degrees and it will be fine.
Yo got a link for that e12 torx wrench?
yessir! www.amazon.com/Vim-VIMWT1214-TORX-BOX-WRENCH/dp/B000PH6WM8
sweet thanks dude.
Justly removed my manifold with the help of your video. my starter gave out on me.
Great video very helpful.
Me again. Do you have to use the e12 box end wrench or can I use my e12 socket and socket wrench?
My e12 bit is short, like 1.5”
@@tennvols08 Were you able to get the socket in there? About to do mine and don't want to order the wrench if I don't have to.
Yo the e12 torx box wrench is really hard to find unless you order online. Do you think a regular e12 3/8 shorty socket could fit?
If you can get it in there go for it
Where you able to get it off with the e12 Shorty?
@@onestarboy9364 had to loosen the trans to get the right angle. Ended up doing it while replacing clutch and already having the trans out
How did you “pull that guy off” is there anything holding it down?
Nm I see it has a plastic tip that keeps it anchored so you lift it up
oh man having to remove the air intake manifold to get to the starter..... -_-
yeah join the club. lmao
Haha, I can’t even tell you how many times I’ve removed it, all I know is I’ve got it down to an art form.
But it still sucks.
So you dont have to do this from under the car? I was always told to do it under the car
I would like to see how to do it from underneath since im dropping my tranny and couldnt get it out until i figured out the starter is atached
Bro im having the same issue idk why my trans is still stuck
@@juniorrat17 I had to remove my intake manifold to get the starter off cuz mine was stuck on the dowel, I hit my starter with a mallet and it came loose and I was able to pry them apart
The only downside of this video Quinn is that you didn't show yourself break loose those e torx bolts so im left wondering which direction to pull or push those bolts to break them loose, towards driver or passenger side?
LHD Driver! Left relative to the bolt head, so right when it's facing the other direction.
@@M3NACE i appreciate the response! Thanks. Though i was able to get it off fairly easily today, your videos have helped me a lot nonetheless just this one time I was hesitant but I was able to figure it out and got them loose fairly easily by putting the box end wrench on it then using the jack handle for more leverage, made it many times easier. Thanks again !
@@rayroh of course! Well done!
hey you told us about where the black and red wire goes but where does the other 2 wires go is there 4 wires hooked up too this black and red on the the biggest one then one on 10 mm one and one on the 8 mm one can u tell me where the wires go please!
the two little ones go on their little pegs. the 8mm only fits on the 8mm thread and the 10mm wire only fits on the 10mm thread. the other two big wires go on the big post, the 13mm. they both go on there. watch from 6:00 on.
ok thanks and when you took off the intake manifold on the first video there are six holes behind it and some people will put paper towel in them while working on the car with the intake off what are they called and what are the little plugs inside of them called ive noticed some plugs are up and sealing the holes in there and some plugs have a gap in them and i can fit a tooth pick in them is this normal? and for the starter i connected the 2 big ones too the big post and there was another wire that was black on the top small post and another wire with some plastic stuff on the bottom wire is this correct.. been trying too fix this car for days and cant find awnsers on the internet.. the problem was when i turned my key the starter would spin and wouldn't engage the flywheel with out crank you would just hear spinning and then grinding and no start up, then after 5 tries the car would start up and i could drive that thing anywhere so i suspected it was the starter so i took it in had it tested and it is in working order supposably then i had the battery tested and it was a good battery they said and before all that i tested the fuel pump relay and it was good... any ideas?
the 6 oval shaped holes you refer too are the intake runners for the cylinder head, and the "plugs" are your valves. they are supposed to open and close, just be careful not to drop anything down in there, as you might mess something up internally in the motor depending on what you drop in there. If i were you, I would put paper towels down there to make sure you dont drop anything down the cylinders, as that could be a costly mistake. (rebuilt engine costly). it sounds like your starter solenoid is bad or is going bad. I would recommend replacing the starter, with a Brand new one or a refurbished one. dont buy one used unless you want to replace it again in the near future. while the starter is out, I would take a look at the ring gear on your flywheel. its a big gear that you can see from the hole where you took the starter out, you will be able to see some of the teeth on it. just look through the hole, it should be right there. look for any signs of fresh metal or if the teeth are broken/missing. if they are, you might want to replace your flywheel. once you get the new starter on, you can pull the fuel pump fuse out of the fuse box and then you can crank the motor with the intake manifold off (be sure to remove the paper towels from the 6 holes because they might get sucked in to the motor, and be sure nothing is around or near the holes cause it also might get sucked in) and you should be able to confirm that the starter is working. if it sounds normal and sounds consistently normal, like you took the key out and started it again and it cranks fine, then put your intake manifold back on. if not, I would start looking into the engine ground wires and clean those up.
ok thanks ill try that tommorow and let you know and when i was removing the top bolt on the starter i removed a hose not knowing what it was and it was the coolant hose and it all leaked out can i still crank the starter like you said with the fuel pump relay out and no coolant in the rad?
yeah you can. your cooling system only starts to work when your motor is gone warming up, just be sure to bleed it properly.
Link to headlights?
Ok so from my own stupidity I decided to try and start my car with the starter in gear (again totally not ideal as I'm about to tell you) git to the end of the driveway and now the car won't start. Put a new starter in and now it won't start. Could anyone help guide me to what the issue might be?
Did you end up finding what was wrong with it?
what part of Cali u from?
oceanside, its north SD area
I DID THIS JOB IN 45 MINUTES
i did this job in 45 hours
10 hours maybe more
Show me your ways
Come do mine
Goddamn it, boi! What's the part number to the starter you got? There are two starters with different part numbers and some share the same image for both starters. Confusing the f@#$ out me. I know I need the starter with the THICC flange.
THICC
sweet video bro!btw awesome headlights,was looking for a review for them,would you recommend them?if it is not asking too much,was it from eBay?thx in advance!
they are the ebay ones, yes. IMO they are not as clean as a good set of depos or euro glass lights, but they are better than stock ones for sure. I decided to go with them as they are clean enough, but i would rather spend the $400 extra that depos would have cost and spent it on other items on the car. have had them for 3 years and they have held up surprisingly well, however i will be upgrading them to depos in the future.
Great thx a lot!was thinking abt getting them too!after seeing your car ,it look pretty good!i think i will get it!great vid n great car,again thanks for your time!!