@@LucasLima-xc1rd LV just reduces the depth. The width stays about the same which is quite large. Seems to be an ongoing issue with climbing shoes nowadays because most climbers I've talked to have issues with the width and depth of their heel.
Adam reveal it's greatness. I think he's finally the first person introducing climber's weight on "stiffness" talk of climbing shoe. If you're 90kgs a Miura isn't that stiff, and a Skwama would be unefficinet at all.
Thanks for the information, but I was quite disappointed that you didn't ask if there was going to be a LV/women's version of the shoe. The No Edge family of shoes is also getting updated this year and so far, but LS has only showcased the men's/HV versions. I have tried men's shoes in the same size but they don't fit nearly as well as their counterparts. Guess all this hype might be irrelevant for me and nearly all the women and those with LV feet? (however male dominated this sport might be)
Nice I really hoped that the shoe would be good for edging, especially because I like to edge all the time. Really glad that I can now edge with a perfect shoe. Liberté, fraternité et égalité. I REALLY really love to edge!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
La spo just needs to make the solution but with a strap that allows them to be resoled no chance you can resole them without the strap breaking before the second rubber. Like the strap on this shoe.
@@mikafullslipper type of shoe with one strap, split sole with soft rubber but harder on the tip of the toes, narrow heel and massive rubber for toe hooking now so much asymmetrical...
@@3dorz the heel is not that narrow, the Onda comp has more rubber on the toe, scarpa has this kind of midsole since the furia and I can't say if there is already a shoe out there with the same combination. But to say it is just a copy... Comeon
I don't understand why these would be the most anticipated shoes... Every foot is unique so unless adam ondra has extremly generic foot dimensions, it shouldn't be that much of a hyped up shoe, especially since there is way more to a good climber than the 0.9% performance increase from your new 200$ shoe...
Cut all the marketing away and you realise that if your a heavy climber, youl never edge well in anything other than a stiff stiff shoe. you can still smeer well if you keep your heels down!
La Sportiva took another venture into hyper specialized shoes alike the victory of the TC Pro but realized the Theory only stands on macros marginally better but has no support for pressing through garbage footholds. Scarpa did this better with the Furia line, extremely agile, but kept some big toe support, and no one uses those in competitions because other Scarpa shoes do the crux footholds better as with the Drago, Chimera, and Instinct.
I thought la sportiva skwama where soft enough and with good toe power to perform well for smedging,i guess this is only for indoor while skwama a bit stiffer for rock, please add this heel to skwamas and solution lv
Happy ondra is getting his money up. Not gonna snag these obvious money grabs but also for my area I need a stiff shoe for all the nubbins at smith so I'm not the market audience I geuss
This timing is great. I was practicing a comp style problem last night and ate it after my foot popped off a volume. The Solution comps weren't optimal for that style.
I'll never understand why downsizing shoes, if it's for more toes power, just choose edging shoes, your street size, and the bigger surface of contact will work well on volume ... even for toes hook
You want the shoe to feel stuck to your foot. Almost like a second skin. Downsizing helps massively with this and you get a lot less "give" in the movement of the shoe. Its also very shoe dependent. I downsize 2 in my Mantra's but I take them off after a few attempts. My katana lace is downsized 1.5 and I never take them off.
my tightest shoes are my edging shoes as the shoe will never be stiff enough to support itself and help hold the toes in a position to press through and pull in on small edges. More agile and softer shoes need to allow the foot to shift positions, and folks often downsize soft shoes because they want the high sensitivity but use them for edging, defeating the purpose.
They are not to stiff for hin in total. He talks about the front edge which is stiff based on the big amount of rubber. I like the theory and the front edge is not soft in my option.
So how much did Sportiva pay you for this video? Or do you do it for the EpicTv shop advertisement? Sorry to be the downer. But I miss the actual climbing news. Long time no videos and then just a 100% product placement video? :(
@@mikafull Yeah, I be thinking 200€ just for the branding. There's a point where shoes seem to do too much of the work if you need super bespoke rubber formulations and stuff. Then when the costs get so high for that extra help, you can't help but start seeing every smear leaving a couple € on the wall...
You’re making climbing become modern football. It’s getting all about names & brands. In a few years people will buy ondra’s sending shoes for thousands. Don’t fuck up!
let us buy the shoes around thhe world. what is this?? just Italy and Usa??? It makes no sense. what happens with spain or france, the best spots to climb?? i think this is a bit sad for the sport
really appreciate the in-depth edging conversation here, real eye opener
That’s what I’ve been saying, we don’t talk enough about edging as a community. Glad someone’s brave enough to speak out
hol up @@ajgoldsmith377
@@ajgoldsmith377😂😂😂😂
🤣@@ajgoldsmith377
Why is this funny
TL:DR Adam needed a Drago from La Sportiva
With a narrower heel, bc the drago heel feels huge to me
DRAGO LV👆
@@miloplayz7474does not solve the abnormal width of the heel, only the depth
@@river4267 I know, but I found that the LV heel felt WAY smaller on all sides than the normal drago. Could just be my foot shape
Nailed It 😂😂😂
I can't wait to edge better with these shoes! Taking my edging skills to the next level!!
Finally a La Sportiva shoe with a narrow heel!! I am very excited about it! Definitely will try them out!
A Drago with a narrow heel would be my perfect shoe, this sounds quite similar so I am eager to try them out.
@@RubinKlein25 Sounds good! :) Mine would be a Solution Comp with the 3d heel of the Madrock Drones… best technologies of both worlds
@@RubinKlein25doesn't Drago LV work for you?
@@LucasLima-xc1rd LV just reduces the depth. The width stays about the same which is quite large. Seems to be an ongoing issue with climbing shoes nowadays because most climbers I've talked to have issues with the width and depth of their heel.
Cant wait for the gooning shoe
Glad to see another EpicTV video! I've been missing the news show!
Finally a narrow heel🙏 Thank you Adam!!! I hope they will do it also for the shoes for the outdoor climbing. Especialy womans.
Finally starting to see more conversions about the benefits of edging in climbing.
Adam reveal it's greatness. I think he's finally the first person introducing climber's weight on "stiffness" talk of climbing shoe. If you're 90kgs a Miura isn't that stiff, and a Skwama would be unefficinet at all.
Im edging with these shoes already! Cant wait to get to the wall and teach all my buds how to edge / smedge.
Kind of forgot about this channel and then realized I havent watched a news show in months! Hope everything is ok!
Proper promo for a product release. Great stuff
Its great to see that signatue more often. Congratulations.
Wow, very informative I didn't realize you needed shoes for edging!? You learn something new every day.
Underrated comment!
We all know he needed a new thin and soft shoe with extra protection for those thin jams in the cellar
Brilliant ..and this is from the man that Invented Scliming.........Screaming and climbing :)
yes edging is essential for modern climbing
Most anticipated by Adam ondra, as they're made to fit him, not everybody else 😂
I really hated the solution comp, let’s see if this one is better. My favorite shoes are the Instinct VSR.
I thought the Futura already covered the edging on sloppy edges plus smearing field
Maybe this is made to be better?
please do a similar design but for the Solution and its toe hook rubber! keeping its tension system
Thanks for the information, but I was quite disappointed that you didn't ask if there was going to be a LV/women's version of the shoe. The No Edge family of shoes is also getting updated this year and so far, but LS has only showcased the men's/HV versions. I have tried men's shoes in the same size but they don't fit nearly as well as their counterparts. Guess all this hype might be irrelevant for me and nearly all the women and those with LV feet? (however male dominated this sport might be)
Did he just claim the origian for the word smeding?
Big Fan, nice Shoe and thanks for the Video ;)
I noticed that too. The word smedging has been around for a long time.
I love edging. Definitely my favorite climbing skill 😉
Where is the news show?
La Sportiva's response to the popularity of Scarpa Dragos. I can't wear Dragos, so I can't wait to grab a pair of these!
The colorway is BadAss!
really looking forward to trying this show, since my heels are very narrow
Great looking shoe.
This is the only time I've seen Adam NOT smile; these shoes must be killer.
Nice I really hoped that the shoe would be good for edging, especially because I like to edge all the time. Really glad that I can now edge with a perfect shoe. Liberté, fraternité et égalité. I REALLY really love to edge!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
sus
I love Adam, but “smedging” to mean smearing over a small edge has been in popular use in northeastern USA for at least 25 years :)
th-cam.com/video/miA5O0LmyJQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=cH4fd9z0gOWee6WH
Sonnie trotter using smedging for the route Presto in Squamish.
I really need to try these
Interesting concept, the horseshoe with the soft rubber within. That sounds like it would work on the type of foot hold Adam mentioned. 🤔
Like a goats foot!
I prefer the Ozone High Volume Edging shoes for my edging sessions.
i have to go really down on size for getting my heels to fit. so a narrow heel, would be perfect for me
Nice interview. I enjoyed all the climbing facts. It was way more as just a shoe presentation, thanks :)
Glad you enjoyed it! 🙏
I wonder how it feels compared to the solution comp and the theorys
What happened to the news show? 😢
Now Adam Ondra is the Michael Jordan of Sport climbing 😂❤.
La spo just needs to make the solution but with a strap that allows them to be resoled no chance you can resole them without the strap breaking before the second rubber. Like the strap on this shoe.
release date?
unparallel flagship version of la sportiva...
why?
@@mikafullslipper type of shoe with one strap, split sole with soft rubber but harder on the tip of the toes, narrow heel and massive rubber for toe hooking now so much asymmetrical...
@@3dorz the heel is not that narrow, the Onda comp has more rubber on the toe, scarpa has this kind of midsole since the furia and I can't say if there is already a shoe out there with the same combination. But to say it is just a copy... Comeon
Cool shoe! Anyone what trousers she's wearing? Seems handy to dust off chalk at the gym
Ladies, don’t be afraid of edging. You can totally do it in these shoes too.
I don't understand why these would be the most anticipated shoes... Every foot is unique so unless adam ondra has extremly generic foot dimensions, it shouldn't be that much of a hyped up shoe, especially since there is way more to a good climber than the 0.9% performance increase from your new 200$ shoe...
I LOVE SMEDGING I LOVE SMEDGING
Cut all the marketing away and you realise that if your a heavy climber, youl never edge well in anything other than a stiff stiff shoe. you can still smeer well if you keep your heels down!
La Sportiva took another venture into hyper specialized shoes alike the victory of the TC Pro but realized the Theory only stands on macros marginally better but has no support for pressing through garbage footholds. Scarpa did this better with the Furia line, extremely agile, but kept some big toe support, and no one uses those in competitions because other Scarpa shoes do the crux footholds better as with the Drago, Chimera, and Instinct.
The Ege of Glory = The song LaSportiva is going to play in honor of the Ondra Comp at O.R. this August: th-cam.com/video/QeWBS0JBNzQ/w-d-xo.html
I’m edging to this rn
Yo epic you have the Wrong link in the description. It send you to a harness.
Make those with madrock rubber and we got the perfect shoe.
so they made a Drago
I thought la sportiva skwama where soft enough and with good toe power to perform well for smedging,i guess this is only for indoor while skwama a bit stiffer for rock, please add this heel to skwamas and solution lv
Solution LV exists?
ahhh, why do these vids make me want to buy the shoes, especially these
Happy ondra is getting his money up. Not gonna snag these obvious money grabs but also for my area I need a stiff shoe for all the nubbins at smith so I'm not the market audience I geuss
they come 2 sizes smaller than you ordered them with a bottle of baby oil and some extra plastic sheets
1:04 updates theory ?
Oof… he thought he invented the word “smedging” 😅
gonna start my smedging streak rn
but WHEN ?!
In the autumn they’ll fall into your hands 😉
Smedging…. O no
Basically a mix between the skwama's and the pythons. I'd probably buy them but I assume they're going to be 1.5 times the price of the pythons
209-199 usd
Price?
10000000000000000000000000000000000 emeralds
200+€
209-199 usd
This timing is great. I was practicing a comp style problem last night and ate it after my foot popped off a volume. The Solution comps weren't optimal for that style.
hahaha that's great to hear!
solution comps are lead shoes
Did he just reinvent the Drago? I mean it might be a good shoe but nothing the world hasn’t seen yet.
Yep an improved version of the theory to catch the perf of the drago lv
@@Romaing7but I don’t know if it would catch up to the edging capabilities of the drago
Meanwhile Jakob Schubert sending everything in regular Solutions 😅
Will sell 1 million copies
When will it be available in more stores?
Sometime in Autumn
whats the interviewers name?
Teresa Corti
I'll never understand why downsizing shoes, if it's for more toes power, just choose edging shoes, your street size, and the bigger surface of contact will work well on volume ... even for toes hook
if you send v16 and say that I will surely consider
You want the shoe to feel stuck to your foot. Almost like a second skin. Downsizing helps massively with this and you get a lot less "give" in the movement of the shoe. Its also very shoe dependent. I downsize 2 in my Mantra's but I take them off after a few attempts. My katana lace is downsized 1.5 and I never take them off.
@@baldeepsingh8698 For sure i don't talk about rental shoes, but for me i have 5.10, i don't downsize and they are very stuck.
my tightest shoes are my edging shoes as the shoe will never be stiff enough to support itself and help hold the toes in a position to press through and pull in on small edges. More agile and softer shoes need to allow the foot to shift positions, and folks often downsize soft shoes because they want the high sensitivity but use them for edging, defeating the purpose.
@@allanzhou6778 stupid mind, if your coach don't send V16, you don't listen him?
Maybe theory are still too stiff for Adam because he downsize them 4 sizes 😂 these are already crazy soft
They are not to stiff for hin in total. He talks about the front edge which is stiff based on the big amount of rubber. I like the theory and the front edge is not soft in my option.
So how much did Sportiva pay you for this video? Or do you do it for the EpicTv shop advertisement?
Sorry to be the downer. But I miss the actual climbing news. Long time no videos and then just a 100% product placement video? :(
Looks like theory and skwama had a kid
Ah so it is a COMPromise Adam I see
What pants is Teresa wearing? (the Ondra Comp looks good too :D)
Down size 4 times*
If you want feet like a street pigeon
🗽 It's a bit embarrassing to climb between grade 7c with that high sophisticated shoe. 🥴
I smedge to thi video
Don't forget that people climbed E4 in old skool gym shoes 😉 It's a cool shoe but it's not a replacement for technique and practice.
Too bad you can't really buy these.
Not yet 😉
Why is he shouting?
If you have to ask how much it costs, you can't really afford it.
min 170€ I would guess
@@mikafull Yeah, I be thinking 200€ just for the branding.
There's a point where shoes seem to do too much of the work if you need super bespoke rubber formulations and stuff. Then when the costs get so high for that extra help, you can't help but start seeing every smear leaving a couple € on the wall...
@@CharveL88 think 200€ is to much, the Theory is at 160€ regular right now and la Sportiva has no 200€ out now. But we will see :)
Meh
thank god the gyms bros are too scared to trad climb.
You’re making climbing become modern football. It’s getting all about names & brands. In a few years people will buy ondra’s sending shoes for thousands. Don’t fuck up!
Smedging is not a word that was invented it’s literally two words cut and pasted together
This world is regressing please don’t promote idiocracy
The techincal term is a portmanteau. There are more of them than you think. Languages evolve *shrug*
Wait till you learn about the German language
XD and he still uses regular solution hahha
let us buy the shoes around thhe world. what is this?? just Italy and Usa??? It makes no sense. what happens with spain or france, the best spots to climb?? i think this is a bit sad for the sport