Lords of Trad | Adam Ondra, Pete Whittaker and Will Bosi
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 มิ.ย. 2024
- Adršpach (Czechia 🇨🇿) is a climbing paradise. It is composed of hundreds of sandstone towers, that don't often offer many holds, and most often, the only way up is via systems of cracks and chimneys. It is very traditionalistic with some very strong ethics, where chalk and metal camming devices are not allowed. It is a big adventure to climb these towers, and I could not resist inviting @Pete_Whittaker from @WideBoyz to climb with me and @WilliamBosi some of the most crack classics in this magic area.
Let me know in the comments which of the routes you liked the most and what you think about trad climbing pioneers Kokša and Špek? Would you also climb with a rope around your chest back in 1964?
ENGLISH SUBTITLES AVAILABLE IN THE VIDEO SETTINGS❗
ČESKÉ TITULKY JSOU DOSTUPNÉ V NASTAVENÍ VIDEA
Timecodes:
00:00 - Intro (ENGLISH SUBTITLES AVAILABLE IN THE VIDEO SETTINGS)
01:15 - Adam Ondra, @Pete_Whittaker and @WilliamBosi chatting about climbing in the Adršpach rocks area
04:00 - Daring Deed (Husarský kousek) IXb/ 7a (1981)and White Mice (Bílé Myšky) VIIIa/ 6a+ (1969)
13:55 - The quality and essence of sandstone climbing in Adršpach
15:46 - Karel "Kokša" Hauschke - Czech sandstone climbing legend
16:55 - Crash and burn Trail (Hubařská stezka) VIIIb (IXa/ 6c+), (1964)
26:06 - Adršpach rocks is a naturally protected area
26:28 - Petr "Špek" Slanina - Czech sandstone climbing legend
26:34 - Juan Gébls génius IXa (Xa/7b+), (2006) flashed by Adam Ondra
35:03 - What do Pete Whittaker and Will Bosi think about climbing in Adršpach?
36:23 - Adam, Will and Pete climb on Lovers (Milenci) - the most iconic tower in Adršpach
37:29 - Outro
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Have you seen this video with Wide Boyz?
• Wide Boyz Schooled Ada...
Thumbnail picture by Adam Ondra :-)
Film by
Jan Šimánek
Camera
Jan Šimánek
Pavel Klement
Vojta Ličko
Drone pilot
Vojta Ličko
Sound mix
Miroslav Červená Chaloupka
Motion graphics
Petr Slanina Jr.
Color grading
Kateřina Brouzdová
Historical pictures
Ondra Krecbach Archive
Special thanks to
Pete Whittaker
Will Bosi
Karel "Kokša" Hauschke
Petr "Špek" Slanina
CHKO Broumovsko
Linda Krecbachová
Ondra Krecbach
Zdeněk Runštuk
Vojta Přibyl
Karel Nováček
Vojta Fröhlich
Jakub Křovák
Tereza Havlíková
Production
Jakub Pína
Jan Verner
Kateřina Kuřátková
Subtitles by
Jarka Marčeková
© Adam Ondra 2023
Songlist
By Lotus - Aerostat
By Lotus - Standing Wave
By Lotus - Reese
By Lotus - I Cross the River
By Lotus - Says Dava
By Lotus - Mayhap
By Lotus - H-thirteen
Ookean - Crystal Creek
Thanks to @mammut!
#climbing #mammut #rockclimbing #tradclimbing #sandstoneclimbing #czechia #sport #movie - กีฬา
Hey guys, watch the new video with Wide Boyz and me on their TH-cam channel from Adršpach - th-cam.com/video/z8vDHIioev0/w-d-xo.html. #crackisback
That crux on the crack looked way harder near the 9b/c level for you. Something going on with the grading creep... you nearly fell.
You cut at 10:47 tut tut
You also cut at 24:00
?
Thanks so much for the invite Adam. So fun to climb with you and Will, and it's always good to come out of those towers still alive 😅😎
Also just to say big thanks to the AO Team for putting out exceptional produced videos, week in week out for the climbing community, for free!! Absolutely fantastic 👏🙏💪
Oh man, we really love your videos together, thanks all of you!
Hope your skin isn't feeling ill anymore
The influence from the crack cellar is definitely coming through. PS did you discuss O-grades at all? 😂
Second that, so well produced. Love the track at the end.
When I saw you in wide pony I knew this was epic
You could see in Pete's eyes he wasn't 100%. I imagine though that if Pete is saying he is in pain, it would be agony for a normal person. He is a machine.
yeah he looked pale and sweaty. wouldn‘t be surprised if he had a 40° fiever or something close. still climbing tough. absolute machine, as you say.
yeah, it looked like pete was not just a bit feverish. Imagine climbing when you're ill... and then something that physically and mentally taxing...
@@hidden_sense9839it looked bloody dangerous! Pleased Pete was ok in the end.
He seems sick. It's not the rock itself.
He was a bit ill I think and had some fever
Nice to see people show respect for the Czech trad ethic. With formations so otherworldly it’s not surprising that the climbing community would be zealous to keep them pristine.
As Pete said, sandstone is only for the bold. I volunteered at this crag before for a climbing festival and there were numerous people in casts and stretchers during the mid day. The runouts there are something to behold. What a legendary place.
@@mikej243 it would seem that fortune doesn’t favor the bold when it comes to sandstone
This “ethic” is completely stupid. Each year there are severely injured or even dead climbers in that area. I wonder if they call an ambulance or if they use only traditional herbs and sticks to heal their fractures
@@mikej243 seems kind of dumb "ethics" if it can be considered ethical to force climbers to use unsafe gear. They should at the very least replace the rusty rings with nice new stainless bolts (bolt for bolt).
It is crazy the amount of mental gymnastics people try to do to justify these "ethics". Its like that in every video about these spots.
It's unescessary and dangerous. It's also tradition and comes from the good intention of protecting the rock.
It baffles me that people can't acknowledge both.
It is possible to install more bolts without damaging the stone or taking anything from the climbing. It is possible to restrict access to crags without making them deadly. I personally think we can honor the traditions intention ( protecting the very fragile rock ) without the dismissive attitude and risking lives. It is not something the locals seem interested in however, and we're not going to change that anytime soon ( and that's perfectly fine! ).
18:46 best moment
Adam: "Around the first bolt was ridicolous!"
Karel:"Chceš pivo?", Czech for "Do you want (a) beer?" xDD what a legend
that's the most czech moment in the whole video :D
😂😂
I don't get the joke 😅 but would gladly accept the beer
Low key one of the best climbing short films I've ever watched. Simple but beautiful camera work, with 3 incredibly talented climbers going crazy. Well done fellas
My thoughts as well. Music was perfect for the shots.
About this type of climbing, go watch "Od palice k vrtu - Directe Alpine" with Petr Slanina. So impressive
Yeah this was well done.
Having Will there really helped put the difficulty in perspective. Watching someone so insanely strong and talented completely flummoxed by the unique features of the sandstone tells you how daunting and special the climbing at Adrspach really is.
I mean Adam and Pete are no slouches either and watching them skate up that shallow “corner” put it in perspective as well 😅
Adam, by exploring and honoring the history of climbing you are doing something massively important for the sport. Especially now that it's growing so fast, the early pioneers can easily be forgotten. Through the work of you and your team they are truly engraved in history. And the long format is a great way to do it.
Yeah really enjoy that as well. The notebooks for the climbers who've made it is a cool tradition too.
Yes! You are so right! Just goosebumps watching this. youre putting it in the right perspective with your comment. Thanks.
When Adam says :around the first bolt, it was ridiculous" Kokša says: "do you want a beer?" 😂
I WAS WONDERING WHAT HE SAID LMAO THANK U
Adam is gonna win an Oscar one day. These videos are spectacular. I’d love to see a full length doc about a big project.
*Adams Team is gonna ein an oscar one day
No he won't lol. He'd actually have to be in a movie
@@rundown132 he can win the oscar to best documentary film, just like Alex Honnold did
There is a movie about Adam - a documentary called “Adam Ondra: Pushing the Limit” ❤
This place looks like something out of a fairytale 🤯
So much movies and fairytales was filmed there of course. 😊 It's wonderfull place.
no wonder, it is the place where Narnia was filmed, hello from Czech republic..
If there was a Venn diagram of types of climbing videos I like, this one basically hits the bullseye. What a venue and what a colab! Top work.
Also, Adam commentating on his own climbing mid-crack, just blows my mind.
I totally get what you're saying, but...bro, a Venn diagram? 🤣🤣
Do you have a playlist? I‘d like to see it :)
You definitly had to be crazy back in the day to climb that :D
and barefoot ?
falling 20 meters and through a tree ?
and pile of branches as a safety mat ?
with rope around your chest ?
65m route with one ring ?
Amazing video as always , every vid deserve few mil views at minimum the cinematography with amazing video quality and audio combined with epic storytelling.
More people could enjoy this channel when algorithm allows it.
I'm not climber but i enjoy every minute of your videos.
Special shoutout to the sound mixing. Made it feel like I was right there with them.
The climbing and the ethic in the Czech sandstone is truly the stuff of legend.
What do you mean by ethic? Place as few bolts as possible? I just don't understand it...
@@d21d3q I mean, I get it to some degree, you've only got these formations in that one specific place and they're extremely fragile and also very few. In a way, the runout nature of these climbs also makes sure that they don't get destroyed by overuse. Given the quality of the climbing these crags would attract hundreds of thousands if they were safe. Not everything needs to be made accessible, there are infinite amounts of top-tier climbing all around the globe, not every route needs to be accessible to everyone. That said, I wouldn't go so far to idealize this sort of ethic either, it's got its time and place but turns pretty ridiculous in other contexts rather quickly. Like imagine not bolting routes in the alps on principle while whole mountains are made accessible through streets, ropeways, ski resorts, trails etc. That doesn't mean we shouldn't reduce our impact on the mountain environment, but out of all things bolts are some of the least damaging remnants we leave in nature.
@@d21d3q. There was a time…not that long ago…where risk and boldness were inherent elements of ALL climbing. Then sport climbing came along…..and everything changed, and young people came to think of climbing as only a safe, gymnastic, sterile activity.
@@johns3106Yeah so much better to get injured, that is more virile. Try to make it a safe sport is stupid and just for cowards
@@Furansowakun There are a lot of sports, where the risk of injury or even death is part of the game. It's an integral part of these sports to prepare well, physically and mentally. If you take the risk out of the equation, it's only about physics and that's another sport (we call it sport climbing).
These sandstone areas are very fragile and when you take a look at the more frequented routes, you see, how fast the sandstone erodes, when it's accessible for to many people. The ethics were actually established around 125 years ago and were evolved very carefully over time. The new camming devices (UFOs) shown in the video as alternative to knots are the most modern evolvement and they caused quite a discussion in the local communities, because they improved protection quite a lot and are much easier (and more deterministic) to place. Sections which formerly hadn't protection at all, because the crack was to parallel, are now protectable and others, where it was difficult to place a trustworthy knot or the knot wouldn't hold big whippers have now much better protection. And don't get misguided by Adam who rather decides to just clip the rings and ran it out - with a little practice, it is totally achievable for a "weekend warrior" with sandstone experience to place these things safely and it makes such a big difference. Harder to learn for the casual climber are the very advanced jamming techniques which are obligatory for most of the towers in Adrspach (but not so much in other sandstone areas nearby).
Another take on injuries: When I look at the accident staticstics, the most common accidents are due to mistakes in routine, like rappel accidents. No one actually has to die by rappeling down from those towers, but it happens occasionally and then often to quite experienced people, who have decades of sandstone climbing under their belts.
Because you have to be mentally prepared very well, the local climbers often decide to not risk a try on a bad protected route and when they decide to do it, they are ready. You cannot climb at your physical limit in the unprotected parts, The really hard, weird and risky (in the sense of likely to fail because you slip or read the rock wrong and end up in a dead-end position) moves are almost always quite well protected with a ring or a 100% knot right underneath or good fall conditions.
Climbing is a complex sport and trad climbing is even more complex because of the risk management and the needed skill for placing good protection, but if the people would seek out for a 100% safe sport, they would go fishing. 😉
That chimney at the end was the most terrifying thing I've ever seen. To see some of the worlds strongest climbers struggle so hard that all technique just goes out the window tells of how freaking difficult that section must be 🤯
I had exactly the same thoughts when I watched this!
Yeah there's grading creep imo at some point.
I feel so fortunate to live in an era where we get such incredible climbing films for free. Thank you Adam and team!
Adam Ondra is just the best all-round climber there ever was. He is not only brilliant in competitions and on outdoor sport routes. He is so freaking bold, that he can also do all these crazy trad and big wall routes.
I really appreciate that Czech is the lead language in this video. You can really feel that Adam and the producers really put themselves, Czech culture and Czech appreciation for rock into this video. I'm not Czech and so really appreciate the different perspective. Some world class climbing with world class videos! Well done 👏
i want everyone watching this to remember: that first route, where adam said the crux is "really heinous" is graded 7a
crack climbs in general tend to be graded quite low. Not sure why that is
@@freddie_connor9202 any guess is because crack climbing is so technical, unless you have the absolute perfect beta and technique it can feel nigh impossible. And those routes are often put up by excellent crack climbers who are masters of their specific crag. To them it’s 7a, but unless you’re just as good as them at that specific style it may feel leagues harder
5.11+ for the yds folks. Wild.
It’s also I assume trad grading and if you ever climb trad the e grade can impact tech grade an vice versa. Trad is always sandbagged especially in UK and Czech 🇨🇿 has same reputation also.
@@billyjhonston8139 Yep, but old climbs are mostly sandbagged as well.
18:45 "You want a beer?" - such a Czech thing. :)
9:15 the way Pete turns around, looks in the camera and says his body hurts just cracks me up
He looked ghastly… it’s a shame he wasn’t on form but he gave it everything!
@@largeformatlandscapeit really is a shame. I’ve been following Pete for a while and would’ve loved to see him go toe to toe with ondra with crack climbing
Will's facial transition after Ondra's "I just clipped the rings and ran it out" at 15:16 is so priceless, watched it 10+ times now 😂
It's a ridiculous statement. There is confidence in skills, then there is stupidity. This attitude will get him killed.
This video was absolutely stunning! From the visuals and scenery to hearing older renowned climbers speaking on their formation and first ascents, it was extremely well put together :) Thank you all for making my afternoon better
I love that your videos often includes previous generations legends ! These guys here really were something else !
that move done by pete on the crux of the 7a route was amazing. also that chimney section towards the end is terrifying!
Stop, the little shimmy and smile at the camera @8:40 is the cutest thing I ever seen in a climbing video.
Not one person mentioning they had no chalk?
Adam, I never comment. Incredible video. Incredible climbing. I’ve never seen the three of you…like this. Almost out of your elements. We’re all human. Trying our best to keep learning. Stay humble. Stay grateful.
And the guys who set the route originally, they didn't even have shoes... insane to me.
That old fella did that gnarly chopper barefoot. Respect most definitely due.
cameramans are always the best climbers. They already finished the top yet Ondra is still at the bottom :D
I love that Adam is using the wide boy crack gloves, huge respect 👍👍
27:50 awesome down the barrell shot. Cool seeing Pete blowing air off and lifting all the dust.
And this whole video goes to prove that Adam is not only the best sport climber in the world, he is a super bold all around climber. Nobody else in the world can even dream to reach the level of excellence in all the disciplines, from super scary trad to cutting edge bouldering and sport climbing
Such an amazing video. Those dudes back in the early days of Czech sandstone climbing were absolutely hardcore and way ahead of their time. Legends.
Now this is an instant classic. Doesn't need a "9C" to create mental climbing content. AO brings so much to the community.. and finally he's even dressed well:)
One of the best climbing video I saw! The best climbers in the world sweating in 6a+, 7a, 7b+... It shows how hard it is! Congrats for the quality of the video and to the Czech climbing legends!
Watching Adam flash this route: Juan Gébls génius IXa (Xa/7b+), (2006) - kept thinking about how hard with no chalk, and I kept thinking, now get your back there and he did and I was so happy to realise I have learnt something watching these videos. So, I'm happy because I'm entertained, I'm educated, I'm excited and fulfilled, thanks a lot, love watching all 3 of these climbers.
love te see adam disappear in the cracks while making weird noises like he's some type of character from lord of rings
The hero in this video is Pete. Thanks for getting your teeth and digging through it. I totally understand how you feel.
Adam's production team is always top notch
I think my favorite thing about this whole video is watching Adam have the most baller time in the chimney. Just made me smile watching him enjoy that.
I will never get tired of old czech climbers telling absolutely insane stories. Protection? Nah, a pile of spruce branches is fine.
Love to see Will absolutely out of his element. Also shows how absurdly well rounded Ondra is.
Despite not being a good climber (barely enough to make it up most things you find doing easy mountaineering in the alps), that intro shot has put this region very much onto my todo-list for holidays... What a landscape!
Not only is the climbing inspiring but the way you always respect and portray traditions and climbing history in all your videos. Having often travelled to this area and gazed up at the lack of bolts its beautiful to see how hard these routes actually are. Thanks Adam and team!
You climb the hardest routes in the world, the hardest multipitch, world champion boulder and sport climb etc.. But what amazes me the most is that you are super psyched to climb in a cellar or on the boldest and most historical routes that exist. Thank you for sharing all these different aspects about this beautiful sport.
Ha! Was climbing here two days ago, what an absolutely inspiring, and absolutely discouraging place. Always an experience to be there
Seeing you guys just sitting atop those towers after some epic climbing was awesome. Very inspirational. Those guys in the 60's were on another level!
I really liked the sound design on this one. The atmosphere perfectly fits the style of climbing where you need to be calm and collected and there's no room for many errors. It was a bit ominous too. I wonder if those rings ever get changed. Many of them seemed well rusty.
That route at the end, génius IXa, is wonderful. Such a simple, aesthetically pleasing rock feature that forces you to climb it in such and ugly, desperate way. So freakin' cool.
You know for the best climber in the world your videos sure are _unbelievably_ amazingly well done. By all rights they should be horrible, shot on a 10 year old cellphone with a cracked screen or something but instead we're getting an IMAX film here. Great job to you and your team. Its soooo good.
This is the best climbing video I have ever seen and AO is officially these best climber alive. Low key no fear, world class at all styles, amazing person.
Adam Ondras and his friends don't shy away from high risks of failure, not to mention serious injury. Thank you for your honesty, and thank you from an arm chair climber for the thrill of watching you clim those beautiful and dangerous towers.
whoever chose the music absolutely killed it this was spiritual
Nice, climbing is bold, grades are ridiculous and this was soooo short.
All respect to Pete for crushing in his condition
5:35 I'm surprised no-one mentions this moment. A masterclass in crack climbing, captured in one beautiful shot. The cameraman is a wizard 👏
Epic stuff! Adam is a real icon of our times. The filming is immaculate as usual.
damn! those climbing legends were crazy, I have so much respect for them
I am going to have slapping chimney nightmares tonight. I am sure I will wake up with my hands covered with sweat. Incredible effort by Adam. Great team and kudos to the legends.
What an amazing location. Absolutely beautiful. And Karel, what a legend!
love when other climbers join. what a time to watch and share!
This is absolutely fantastic footage. What a hidden wonder of the world.
One of the most beautiful videos, gorgeous rock, crack and chimney climbing, the historic climbers chatting, the nature, the people, the respect for it all.
This is why bouldering bros will always be impressed by sport climbers. I boulder 95% of the time and I am going to change that after watching Ondra's magic in this video.
Another banger of a video sponsored by Mammut! So well filmed, so well edited!
What a beautiful, impressive and terrifying film! Some of the best climbing footage I’ve seen in years. Phenomenal climbing….. especially from the older gents. Thank you🙂
so wild, so bold, so equalizing……. so bad ass.
Hands down, Favorite of climbers videos. Adam’s camera crew capture things with a seriously quiet, unnerving feeling, topped off with a smash you in the mouth beauty. It’s really awesome to see how people can edit 3 videos and they all have a different feel. Can’t wait to try once I get an iPad to edit GoPro
Glad you enjoyed it! AO team
Climbing, history, art 🥹🫂 as we Brazilian say: ENTREGOU TUDO! ❤️✨️
The Wide Boyz tried to kick Adam's ass in the Cellar, he got them the real deal in return 😂
shame pete wasn't 100% but he was still killing it as usual
Those mountains are so beautiful. Really inspiring.
One of the best climbing videos of the year! I feel so fortunate to live in a time where I can watch 10/10 quality videos of my favorite sport for free. Thanks so much all of you!
Jeeeee má domovina Adršpach ❤❤❤❤❤❤ miluji to tam
I would love to see more videos from Czech sandstone...
and also the AO team is on a whole different level... the camera crew and production quality is just amazing, big thanks to you guys for amazing work👏
Noted! Thanks! AO Team
Adrspach with Pete and Adam. Wonderfu
I'm dying of laughter here! The climbing on the 7b+ is absoloutely ridiculous - and awesome 🤣🤣
wow credit to the camera crew and editors always making amazing short films that last route was crazy wow props to Adam for flashing that because wtf
27:45 This "Pfuff" with cloud of dust was the funniest moment 😅
the production value is insane with AO videos. you could hold your own film tour.
Mr. Hauschke seems like a awesome person. Climbing in his day sounds insane
Wow - the climbs, the music, the filming - well done team - top class!
Really enjoyed that. Some brave climbing there. Felt sorry for Pete, most people can't climb out of bed with a fever.
I would be happy to see a follow-up video that tells about the history of the place and why it is forbidden to climb with chalk and how the routes were bolted.
Yet another absolutely incredible film that truly conveys the beauty and difficulty of terrain like this, and also the pure fulfillment of conquering it. Never with overconfidence, but always with humility and a healthy dose of caution. There is reverence for the danger and the beauty both. Thank you for sharing this with all of us!
This made my palms sweat ferociously. Good effort climbing these pristine structures!
I love that Adam, in addition to being arguably the world's greatest sport climber, is just casually an excellent crack climber/off-width climber, and not afraid of the boldest style. He's an all around legend.
This video is epic. One of your best videos ever.
And that flash of the "frictionless corner" incredible.
that sandstone looks so cool
The quality of these is just getting better and better. Honestly amazing for free TH-cam content, thank you!
Awesome video! Thank you for giving us the opportunity and share it.
you guys really are great people, incredible climbers and ambassadors for the sport and its many facets, really nice to see the, thanks for sharing. Salut to everyone getting out there and doing what they love and fostering community .
For sure one of the best climbing video I've ever seen. Thanks to the AO team!
Thanks Adam, Pete and Will. Great video in a wonderful, magical pace. 😊
This has to be one of the best and well produced videos on youtube i've seen in a while, and that's saying alot!
One of the greatest vids on this channel. So amazing to have this group together in this location!
Best Ondra-Vid ever! Nearly 40min of pleasure for me. I would recommend to mention the names of the towers also, not only the route names. Otherwise you cannot find them in the guidebook.
Husarský kousek IXb/ 7a (1981) and Bílé Myšky VIIIa/ 6a+ (1969); Pegas, sektor Jezerka.
Hubařská stezka VIIIb (IXa/ 6c+), (1964); Zub, sektor Ostrov.
Juan Gébls génius IXa (Xa/7b+), (2006); Vosa, sektor Království.
All at Adršpašské skály.
Incredible quality video and climbing. Thanks so much for sharing these. This is real climbing culture.
The Perfecto Mundo series were my favourites, but I think this is a great, self contained work of art. Location, characters, history and filming.
These are my absolute favorite type of climbing videos. It really captures what I love about climbing the most. Adventure, stunning scenery, laughter, and the insane joy that I remember during my younger climbing days.
Great little film as always. Thanks everyone!
The quality of AO videos is up the roof, the picture is so beautiful.
This area is fantastic, nature is crazy sometimes. I'd love to discover this in Czech Republic but it is way too hard for my level of sandstone climbing.