A COMPLETE Guide to CLIMBING FOOTWORK TECHNIQUES
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 พ.ค. 2024
- Learn the fundamental techniques to level up your climbing footwork in this complete guide. Whether you're an intermediate or advanced climber, these footwork techniques will improve your technique and help you level up! So grab your climbing shoes and get ready to elevate your climbing game!
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Timestamps:
0:00 - BASIC
4:10 - ADVANCED
9:16 - EXPERT
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The quality of this video is incredible, love all the tips and insights. Cool change of pace from the training series! Hoping to see you guys climb in Montreal in 2024 :)
I appreciate that :)
they kicked me out of my climbing gym because i was edging.... so what the hell.
LMFAOOO
😂😂😂😂😂😂
No talking, just pure information 👍. Love the short format
I mean, there was some talking.
This is genuinely the best technique guide I’ve ever watched. Clear and concise, and includes a lot of moves I don’t see in other videos. Great video!
Thank you so much! I’m glad it was helpful!
The information density is terrific!
Awesome, concise video! Where I come from, we call the “moon jump” a “pogo”
Great training, so appreciated.
This is a very solid video! Super easy to understand and not to long/boring. Thank you!
We’re glad it was helpful!!
Ty for this video!
Thank youuuu very comprehensive
This video was SO helpful. Thanks!
wow, that's really really helpful, thank u!!
This was helpful, thank you
Ty great vid🎉
You’re so smooth. Great video straight to the point 😊
Awsome video!
Well made and informative! Thanks!! Want moreeee!!!!
You got it!
Great vídeo! This information is só essential! Congratulation!
This is gold
Your muscles are incredible!!
Deserves more views! Excellent quality info and editing.
I appreciate that :)
Great video. I hope evolv sponsors yall with all those zoom ins 😂
What an AMAZING video!!! SO useful!!!! Absolutely in love!
Glad you liked it!!
Super well filmed and explained. Thank you for making these
Thank you for watching!
Straight to the point, learned a lot from this, thank you :) I hope you'll make similar videos in the future
That’s the plan! We’re glad you enjoyed it :)
Flowy, fun, easy to understand. Damn ,well put togeter guide.
Haha thank you!
0:10 the edging technique is paramount.
Substantive, clear, fun, ordered. Good work. And very pleasant to watch in terms of your athletic aesthetics 💙
Haha thank you! We try 😅
Really helpful and fun video.
Great to hear 🥳
Substantive, clear, fun, ordered. Good work. And very pleasant to watch in terms of your athletic aesthetics
Haha thank you 🙏
Good content! The heel hook is accurate. I myself made that mistake.
Great video! More tip videos please!
Best vid I’ve seen
Thanks!
Thank you!!
if alpine knee is a thing, is whaling out then called alpine tummy? great video! really nice demos for every move :) also love the zoom-in-transition, are you sponsored by evolv?
Haha I guess so 😂
I appreciate that! Yes I am sponsored by Evolv but they didn’t pay me to make this video ;)
awesome
Fantastic video. No one has told me to point my toe downwards while heel hooking in a year and a half of climbing.
Oh no! Haha I’m glad I could help! Pointing the toe is a game changer for sure
nice!
Awesome video! Definitely sharing with people.
In case in comes up in the future, I think a counter-balancing leg in an overhang is worth mentioing apart from flagging. Counter balance to the left, to the right, or towards your other foot to shift weight away from your hand.
Yeah that’s a great one to add. Noted!
god,thanks you so much for that video !
🙏🙏🙏
What an inspiring vid! Now I’m thinking of all the moves I’ve learned over the years. Some other advanced foot work moves I thought of!
- The Bicycle: one foot is in a toe hook position, the other foot is on the other side of the same hold or an opposing hold pressing down to essentially squeeze the hold. Super useful on cave and overhang.
Figure 4/9: when you feed your leg through a locked off arm. It’s a classic ice climber move that has been adapted to other forms of climbing.
Something I’ve been seeing more in comp climbs lately is the straddle. Similar to the move in aerial silks, you place a leg over a larger hold for a resting/hands free position. Feels similar to a knee bar but only requires one big hold that you can essentially rest a leg on.
Step Up Dyno: a type of jump where you use your momentum to step up to a higher foothold, allowing you to jump even higher. It is most often a move where you are required to match one foot to your hands, as there are no other foothold to use. The most famous use of this is the Tamoa Skip in speed climbing.
Finally one of my favorites from comp climbing… a step through dyno: it’s a continuation of the moon kick in which after your moon kicking foot lands, you keep your momentum to step through with your other foot. Very coordination heavy.
Great video! Super informative.
This is great comment :)
Thank you for adding to the list of techniques 😁
Really awesome video! Just what I was looking for.
Do you have any plans to make a similar video for how to climb different hold types or more hand/arm based techniques?
We’re glad you liked it!!
Yes absolutely, both of those are high on the list. Are there any more topics that you’re interested in?
@richardsonsclimbing I'd also be interested in videos about the different types of techniques that could be used for runnie-dos/coordination style boulders.
Maybe even a tutorial?
I really like trying the run and jump dyno boulders, but often have trouble staying balanced/in towards the wall enough to jump/dyno to the next hold. Especially if there is more than one step involved
Noted!
That's a really good tutorial! Concise and efficient, and I like the big titles on the bottom left. Would be nice to have timestamps for each individual move in case I want to refer back to this video later!
Great suggestion!
BRAVO! HONOM SKA VI HA!!!!!!!!!
Wow what a great, refreshing and no non-sense video.
I’m a beginner and this was marvellous.
Is there one for holds? Some holds are so hard that I wonder what’s the magic to keep stable
That’s great to hear! Yes a holds version is in the works!
@@richardsonsclimbing can’t wait! Subscribed!!
Best video ever
😅😅
great info and you are strong aFFFFFF
😅😅
Loved the tips and the red pants🤗
I stuck my first ever pogo jump (moon kick) thanks to this video!
Amazing!!!!
I will never every be flexible enough to do that heel hook lol
If I'll ever start climbing I'll return to this video!
So informative!
What's the name of the background music?
The artist is Jules Gaia and all of his stuff is on Spotify!
How is this video so good with so little attention
Beginner question here: when doing foot swap, the majority of the weight shall be supported by the hands or not?
Great video! At the end "foot-less" can be also called "campus move".
It depends on the situation and how good your hands are! Typically, most of your weight is on the feet.
Nice! Three more to add: The scraping toehook (no idea what it's called). On slab for some sensitive moves you will want the foot that is not on the hold to point straight down, keeping the upside of the foot flush against the wall can get you closer to the wall and let you modulate with the upper rubber.
Then there is standing up on the heel, another slab move. Not a heelhook, you just put the heel on the hold and stand up on that instead of the toe. Can be a hack if you are not flexible enough to put the toe on a hold!
Then there is the toe-knee cam, a nice friction slab move where you lean forward, put your knees against the wall to get some rest - perhaos not much for progression, more for resting.
I think those are all intermediate, not advanced moves!
Oh those are good ones! We spent three days wracking my brain for footwork technique but those got missed!
There’s also the stem!
If a climb has a full foot I’m all in on that. Soft shoes for life bb
I had an accident and since then my left knee can't bend more than 100Degree, this greatly decreased my ability to climb and I dropped a few levels, I hope with these tips I can balance that out step by step with more technique
Oh no! I hope this helps :)
There you go kids, campusing is an expert move. love it and deal with it
😂😂
For the heels down technique on volumes, isn't it less about maximizing surface area, and more about applying correct directional force? Because with heels up, you apply force almost directly downwards, essentially increasing the chance of slipping, because optimally, the force is 90 degrees against the volume. So by pushing your heels downwards, it ensures that your force is forwards, against the volume, rather than downwards? I might be wrong, but would love to hear your thoughts!
This is essentially the same argument as maximizing friction as friction is proportional to the normal force on the surface.
Yes the force and the angle of your shoe are all just tools to maximize the amount of friction you can get out of a given surface. The simplest way to say it is just heels down!
I've also been thinking a lot about the whole "heel down" story. Friction is independent of the surface area and is only calculated from the normal force and the properties of the two materials (coefficient of friction), as the force is distributed over the surface area of the shoe. What makes a difference, however, is the load on the rubber of the shoe. If the force is not distributed over a larger area, it tears the rubber off the shoe sole and you slip. Not due to a lack of friction, but due to abrasion.
I have to admit I'm not a big fan of the general "heel down" tip, it's more a balance of enough pressure and enough surface area. It's also harder to put pressure on the foot if you bring the heel down too far.
That’s true. I think the advice is more geared towards new climbers who would only put the tip of their shoe on a wall to smear. Most aren’t flexible enough to get their full foot flat on the wall, so the heels down advice just queues them to get more of their shoe on the surface.
Can't forget the smedge!
Awesome work, this covers so much so clearly!
A couple of thoughts about footwork I've learned recently and didn't see here:
For really bad/small feet, sometimes it's useful to twist/cam them into position by first placing the toe rubber "too far" onto the wall/volume in more of a smearing position with the hold under the foot rather than right under the toe. Then twist and stand up to really dig the toe or edge in at the same time you weight it. This seems particular effective for tiny jibs screwed onto notex. I think it forces the toe/edge rubber to compress a bit and makes terrible jibs a bit less bad.
Not sure it was covered as its own thing, but the toe-smear is also a super useful variant of a toe hook - for example bicycling a bad volume on slab with one bad foot above and a toe smear underneath can give just enough leverage or compression to stand on it.
That’s a great way of putting it. There’s definitely another video where I go more in depth with footwork like you are here and there’s a TON of value in setting specific.
Thanks for sharing!
@@richardsonsclimbing I'd love to see that video if you make it!
Love this video! one of the only places I've seen address foot and leg positioning in dynamic movements.
What brand of leggings is she wearing? I like the canadian flag in the back
That’s great feedback! I’ll definitely keep that in mind for future videos!
And btw the leggings are Lululemon from the Team Canada line
I like to call the alpine knee a "tactical knee"
Haha I love that!
I came for the feet- ehm I mean footwork. Anyways I was not disappointed.
I would have loved to see a figure 4 no hands rest!
Oh thank you we totally missed those! Will remember for the next video!
좋아요~
👍👍
As a beginner, drop knee is ma fav one:)
Is this video a waisted opportunity for shoe advertising?😂
Haha yes it is 😅
My foot work stinks, thanks for the tips!
Happy to help!
Never climbed, but I'm a master of edging.
only one thing to add. when you mantle try to turn the heel sideways so your foot wont stand in the way when you pull ypurself over the edge...
Ah that’s a good one!
In australia we eat chips. So i got hungry. Otherwise a great video
Thank you! Interesting choice to showcase footwork on chips with a very soft shoe - I hope it's sponsored. Any particular reason you switched from your usual? Was it for the smearing? The kick is also known as pancho if I am not mistaken?
I see people doing heel hooks also downward but to the side combined. Is it recommended for a certain instance ?
The heel depends on hold choice and where you want your hips to be, heel to the side= allows you to get closer to the wall
Yeah the chips were big enough that the shoe didn’t matter but yes - stiffer is usually better for chips! I happened to train in my soft shoes that day for coordination practice and did the video right after 😅
I’ve never heard that term for the moon kick but that sounds legit! I’ve also heard pogo.
@shadereal7679 is spot on with his answer!
I can say I have never inside flagged in my life
😂😂
Toe cams are no where near V11 status. Someone who only has sent V3 can learn how to to cam. That being said, this tech is almost never necessary [in my gym].
What she calls "Alpine Knee," my friends and I call "The Knee of Shame."
😂😂
the footwork technique is what?!
What's the brand of the leggings? They look great
Haha that’s the Team Canada collection from Lululemon!
Ah, ok, so not something I can get 😅
The only thing I learned here is that evolv copied la sportiva.
I prefer it foot-less... 😜
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edging????!!!!🤨
Your muscles are incredible!!
🤣🤣