Wow ! I like all the options to make home pcb ! Do u see the other way with a Cheap Resin 3D Printer (works with a UV lamp and HiRes LCD screen for the layers) ? Best regards!
I know that method, but I never tried. There are a bit too many passages for me. The uv printer seems not fundamental, since you can use traditional photo mask made with a normal printer, and the use a standard bromographe to transfer the picture. The adhesive resin seems interesting, but pre-sensitive boards appears more practic to me. Anyway, many thanks for your interest.
Any opaque acrylic may be used. The engraver in the video is a Sculpfun S9 with 5.5W diode laser, but any other is equivalent, adapting the motion speed. With my laser I set 100% power at 800 mm/mn on a 20 lines/mm line-per-line b/w reversed image horizontally flipped using LaseraGRBL, coming from a 600 dpi b/w export bmp from Proteus.
Laser da 5.5W velocità 800 mm/min potenza 100%. Ho anche provato con 1200 e 1600 mm/min, senza particolari problemi se non dove, involontariamente, ho spruzzato troppa vernice. A 800 scava molto bene.
Magari! Non è alla portata dell'hobbista, purtroppo. Occorrono potenze altissime e lunghezze d'onda minori di quelle del visibile. www.cutlitepenta.com/lavorazioni/foratura-con-laser-fibra-i-vantaggi-dellinnovazione/
8 หลายเดือนก่อน
Hello! I saw that you used a product to remove the paint, what is it? Is there another one I can use?
It is "Pure Acetone", like that: www.amazon.co.uk/Blissify-99-5-Acetone-Cleaning-Electronics/dp/B0BQJH5WQK/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?crid=XF4F5YU84GA3&keywords=acetone&qid=1695579758&sprefix=acetone%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-8
Please, take info's about CO2 lasers and copper, i know that copper will reflect the laser back,and this could damage the laser,not to mention eyes, in case of unfortunate reflection. I could be wrong, but in some CO2 lasers internal mirrors are built in copper due to its property in reflecting that wavelength. Anyway copper can be treatead to prevent easy reflection .Type on a search engine "CO2 laser copper".
@@elasiedzik6736 Thanks. I didn't even cogitate that reflections going into the emitter. I knew that reflexes could be hazardous. But not that much. Thanks again.
I used Proteus. You can have a temporary limited evaluation license for free. But any other Cad-Eda software may be used, and there are also some interesting free Open Source with Gnu Gpl license.
@@stefanopurchiaroni9365 Interesting. It looks far simpler than some of the other methods. ie. No chemicals. Two steps, spray wait and put on the laser. Very interesting.
ciao, come fai a posizionare la basetta esattamente sul laser? Ogni volta ci perdo un sacco di tempo, ma sosetto sia più banale di come lo faccio io. Grazie
Ciao, Antonio. Io ho una lastra d'acciaio forata alla base (Leroy Merlin) ed ho allineato i fori con gli assi, in modo da avere un riferimento preciso per ogni posizionamento. Posso sbagliare di uno o due decimi al massimo, ma faccio la basetta mezzo mm più grande per sicurezza. Naturalmente sposto a mano la testa del laser sull'angolo basso a sinistra, ed imposto lo "zero" sul programma. Poi se occorre la rifilo, dopo l'incisione in acido.👍
Hi sir.... currently I'm using laser 500mw....& Try to engrave PCB board....but it didn't work or burn the pcb ...is it because of the watt value or setting the speed on lasergbrl software....your response is highly appreciated sir
Hi. I would consider an upgrade buying a 5.5W module, investing about 70 euros. Anyway, taking into account your 0.5W laser power, I suggest you to set the engraving speed at 100 mm/min or lower. Of course, this setting will dramatically slow down the job. As example, a 5x5 cm pcb needs 8-9 hours to complete, against 45 minutes with a 5.5W commercial module.
@@stefanopurchiaroni9365 I see....thanks for your advice sir.....I think I will upgrade the watt size....8-9 hours to make 1 PCB is quite waste time😂😂 btw thanks again for your advice.... appreciate that🙏🙏
Thanks, but the tricky part for me is the laser engraving, i.e. the settings I should use. My laser has real 10W power. Another thing, you use the GRBL Laser and I use LightBurn; does this make a difference? Or, should I install the GRBL Laser? Thanks again.
I use 800mm/min@100% for 5.5W. On a 10W you can try 1600mm/min. I cannot help you for Lightburn, but surely it should be able to burn an image at 20 lines per mm. Remember to invert the pcb image and to reflect it horizontally before burning.
@@stefanopurchiaroni9365 I understand inverting or mirroring an image, but I am not sure if I understand what reflecting horizontal means. Do you mean flip?
@@stefanopurchiaroni9365 Any explanation why it's needed at all? After you burn the painting, ferr.chloride will easy penetrate and dissolve copper. It's not my fantasy, people did it in practice.
Non si può. La vernice non colpita dal laser deve rimanere, perché ha lo scopo di proteggere dalla corrosione le parti utili del rame. Il Vim serve per togliere meglio la vernice bruciata dalla luce del laser, scoprendo le zone da corrodere.
@@stefanopurchiaroni9365 una volta passata dal laser si può togliere la vernice rimanente rimasta sulle piste con lo sverniciatore... funziona. th-cam.com/video/kPm7EwPulVY/w-d-xo.html
Va bene usare lo sverniciatore al posto dell'acetone (che comunque preferisco), ma non dopo il solo Laser. Si fa dopo la corrosione. E prima della corrosione si deve togliere la vernice bruciata e lasciare quella buona. Se in quella fase usi lo sverniciatore porti via tutto. Ti suggerisco di riguardare tutto il video.
Il laser blu dura 1 ora ne ho fatto fuori due.... adesso basta.. .vado con mio centro cb ferrari col elexa 132 multiplicatore ...bulino 0.1 a 20 gradi ..s 18000 f150 ap.04 ae 0.5 d... Ho fatto un qfn 32....
![[TH] VCT Masters Shanghai Playoffs DAY 5 // 100T vs PRX | FUT vs TH](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/q75pv359eP4/mqdefault.jpg)
Looks good. I will have to try this now that I have a laser.
Intéressant, merci !
Molto bene. Grazie mille per la condivisione
This project is very good!
Many thanks!
top !!!
Wow ! I like all the options to make home pcb ! Do u see the other way with a Cheap Resin 3D Printer (works with a UV lamp and HiRes LCD screen for the layers) ? Best regards!
I know that method, but I never tried. There are a bit too many passages for me. The uv printer seems not fundamental, since you can use traditional photo mask made with a normal printer, and the use a standard bromographe to transfer the picture. The adhesive resin seems interesting, but pre-sensitive boards appears more practic to me. Anyway, many thanks for your interest.
Desde Venezuela
Would it work if I use a laser engraver? Those that I have looked up are about 1.5-2w blue lasers.
Yes, it works also with 1.5-2W but in this case you should reduce the speed to 400 mm/s.
Looks good, what type of this black paint? Acril? tempera or something else? And Scupfun laser settings? Can you tell me something?
Any opaque acrylic may be used. The engraver in the video is a Sculpfun S9 with 5.5W diode laser, but any other is equivalent, adapting the motion speed. With my laser I set 100% power at 800 mm/mn on a 20 lines/mm line-per-line b/w reversed image horizontally flipped using LaseraGRBL, coming from a 600 dpi b/w export bmp from Proteus.
Good morning, I really liked your video, what model is your Sculpfun cnc?
Hello, I have an S9 engraver with a 5.5W laser diode, and a 43x42 area
ottimo, quanti watt ha il laser? impostazioni programma ecc???
Laser da 5.5W velocità 800 mm/min potenza 100%. Ho anche provato con 1200 e 1600 mm/min, senza particolari problemi se non dove, involontariamente, ho spruzzato troppa vernice. A 800 scava molto bene.
Hi, i would like to ask if the S9 laser 5.5W can cut the FR4 board with correct setting?
Hello. I never tried. I just made the top sinc. I am afraid you need more power to cut fr4: 50-100W with shorter wavelenght.
Fantastico! Sarebbe bello poter fare i fori sul PCB direttamente con il laser
Magari! Non è alla portata dell'hobbista, purtroppo. Occorrono potenze altissime e lunghezze d'onda minori di quelle del visibile. www.cutlitepenta.com/lavorazioni/foratura-con-laser-fibra-i-vantaggi-dellinnovazione/
Hello! I saw that you used a product to remove the paint, what is it? Is there another one I can use?
It is "Pure Acetone", like that:
www.amazon.co.uk/Blissify-99-5-Acetone-Cleaning-Electronics/dp/B0BQJH5WQK/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?crid=XF4F5YU84GA3&keywords=acetone&qid=1695579758&sprefix=acetone%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-8
Can you drill the hole at laser in first step?
No, the laser can only remove the black painting to create the acid protective mask.
Hey this was pretty Cool. Do you know if it works with CO2 laser engravers?
Sure. Just find the proper speed/power combination.
Please, take info's about CO2 lasers and copper, i know that copper will reflect the laser back,and this could damage the laser,not to mention eyes, in case of unfortunate reflection.
I could be wrong, but in some CO2 lasers internal mirrors are built in copper due to its property in reflecting that wavelength.
Anyway copper can be treatead to prevent easy reflection .Type on a search engine "CO2 laser copper".
@@elasiedzik6736 Thanks. I didn't even cogitate that reflections going into the emitter. I knew that reflexes could be hazardous. But not that much. Thanks again.
@@FTNT Oops ..i'm here with my wife account ,sorry
@@elasiedzik6736. Hahaha. No problem.
how much power is this laser consumption and wattage of this laser ?
90W consumed. 5.5W of laser light
Nice one. Sir what is the name of the PCB software you use.
I used Proteus. You can have a temporary limited evaluation license for free. But any other Cad-Eda software may be used, and there are also some interesting free Open Source with Gnu Gpl license.
What format did you export to?
Bmp, 600 x 600 dpi, b/w. Remember to flip horizontally and to invert colours in LaserGrbl. Use line per line graving at 20 lines per mm.
@@stefanopurchiaroni9365 Thank you.
Can you drill the holes with a lazer?
Can you 'center punch' the holes with a lazer?
Not with a 5.5W diode. May be with a CO2 >20W. I never tried, anyway.
@@stefanopurchiaroni9365 Interesting. It looks far simpler than some of the other methods. ie. No chemicals. Two steps, spray wait and put on the laser.
Very interesting.
ciao, come fai a posizionare la basetta esattamente sul laser? Ogni volta ci perdo un sacco di tempo, ma sosetto sia più banale di come lo faccio io. Grazie
Ciao, Antonio. Io ho una lastra d'acciaio forata alla base (Leroy Merlin) ed ho allineato i fori con gli assi, in modo da avere un riferimento preciso per ogni posizionamento. Posso sbagliare di uno o due decimi al massimo, ma faccio la basetta mezzo mm più grande per sicurezza. Naturalmente sposto a mano la testa del laser sull'angolo basso a sinistra, ed imposto lo "zero" sul programma. Poi se occorre la rifilo, dopo l'incisione in acido.👍
@@stefanopurchiaroni9365 purtroppo in questi casi, se non si guarda, non si comprende...grazie comunque proverò a fare una gliglia di allineamento
Hi sir.... currently I'm using laser 500mw....& Try to engrave PCB board....but it didn't work or burn the pcb ...is it because of the watt value or setting the speed on lasergbrl software....your response is highly appreciated sir
Hi. I would consider an upgrade buying a 5.5W module, investing about 70 euros. Anyway, taking into account your 0.5W laser power, I suggest you to set the engraving speed at 100 mm/min or lower. Of course, this setting will dramatically slow down the job. As example, a 5x5 cm pcb needs 8-9 hours to complete, against 45 minutes with a 5.5W commercial module.
@@stefanopurchiaroni9365 I see....thanks for your advice sir.....I think I will upgrade the watt size....8-9 hours to make 1 PCB is quite waste time😂😂 btw thanks again for your advice.... appreciate that🙏🙏
What kind of paint did you apply to the pcb?
Synthetic opaque black paint for metals
Thanks, but the tricky part for me is the laser engraving, i.e. the settings I should use. My laser has real 10W power.
Another thing, you use the GRBL Laser and I use LightBurn; does this make a difference? Or, should I install the GRBL Laser? Thanks again.
I use 800mm/min@100% for 5.5W. On a 10W you can try 1600mm/min. I cannot help you for Lightburn, but surely it should be able to burn an image at 20 lines per mm. Remember to invert the pcb image and to reflect it horizontally before burning.
Thank you very much!
@@stefanopurchiaroni9365 I understand inverting or mirroring an image, but I am not sure if I understand what reflecting horizontal means. Do you mean flip?
2:40 how ? Is it Light curable or something like toner or similar?
It is just a standard black opaque spray paint.
@@stefanopurchiaroni9365 so how it works ?
Which parts remains black after laser Light exposer ? Circuit part or background?
The laser removes the black paint out of the circuit. So that, after cleaning, only the circuit parts remain black and protected agains acid action.
Where the copper disappeared?
As shown at 3'48", it is the chemical part of the procss.
Saludos soy eduin
Hola, Heudin
What is vim please?
Vim Clorex or equivalent polish powder: en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vim_(cleaning_product)
@@stefanopurchiaroni9365 ok, thanks a lot 👍
@@stefanopurchiaroni9365 Any explanation why it's needed at all? After you burn the painting, ferr.chloride will easy penetrate and dissolve copper. It's not my fantasy, people did it in practice.
@@daitedve1984 From my tests, removing burned painting particles will provide much better results. Try with and without and see the difference.
I used Vim wipes, found they worked by accident, when cleaning the soot off board
Puoi evitare il passaggio del Vim usando direttamente uno sverniciatore.
Non si può. La vernice non colpita dal laser deve rimanere, perché ha lo scopo di proteggere dalla corrosione le parti utili del rame. Il Vim serve per togliere meglio la vernice bruciata dalla luce del laser, scoprendo le zone da corrodere.
@@stefanopurchiaroni9365 una volta passata dal laser si può togliere la vernice rimanente rimasta sulle piste con lo sverniciatore... funziona.
th-cam.com/video/kPm7EwPulVY/w-d-xo.html
Va bene usare lo sverniciatore al posto dell'acetone (che comunque preferisco), ma non dopo il solo Laser. Si fa dopo la corrosione. E prima della corrosione si deve togliere la vernice bruciata e lasciare quella buona. Se in quella fase usi lo sverniciatore porti via tutto. Ti suggerisco di riguardare tutto il video.
Il laser blu dura 1 ora ne ho fatto fuori due.... adesso basta.. .vado con mio centro cb ferrari col elexa 132 multiplicatore ...bulino 0.1 a 20 gradi ..s 18000 f150 ap.04 ae 0.5 d...
Ho fatto un qfn 32....