The Double Breasted Suit: "Know your Suits" Series (Part 2)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.พ. 2021
- In this series of episodes, Hugo takes you on a guided tour of the main styles of suits and jackets for gentlemen. In this second episode he focuses on the double-breasted suit, and explains how to progress step by step on the "Sartorial Ladder", from conservative styles to more daring ones.
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“It’s precisely because it’s useless that we love it” - Hugo
Yes John, precisely! Yours, Hugo
That sounds like some women I have met!
Surely There is no better way to spend the afternoon than watching Mr Hugo talk about suits! Good sir, could you please do a video on how a younger gentleman such as myself can dress sharply, tastefully and formally without being aged by the outfit or 'looking old'
Thank you Lizwi. Let's see what we can do. Cheers, Hugo
Hugo, love the way you wear double-breasted suit on the single-breasted suit video, then single-breasted suit on the double-breasted one. An elegant and subtle way to complement what you want to present. Cheers!
Done on purpose my friend, of course! Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS enjoyed the video so much! Thanks
As always, brilliant. I love how Monsieur Jacomet keeps asking Ms Glynn for his english, its just so spontaneous. Great couple indeed.
Many thanks Aaron! My English still needs some help from time to time. I'm just French after all 😂. Cheers, Hugo
Mr. Jacomet speaks great English anyhow! Excellent pronunciation and the grammar is perfect. Regards from Brazil
As a woman, I found I truly adore the silhouette of a double-breasted jacket. It suits my shape very well, and balances my figure. Wonderful video!
Dear Elsa, I can't agree more. My wife Sonya Glyn adores the DBs as well. Best, Hugo
The majority of my suits are DBs for the last 4 decades and have never failed to impress! So much so that that my DB tuxedo along with my off white dinner jacket is my favorite tuxedo! No one should shy away from the DB suit but rather get to know it, it is a powerful statement in all it's permutations, voila!
I agree my friend, it is a powerful statement (when the cut is done right). Cheers, Hugo
I was not pretty confident wearing the double breasted suit but I overcame all the negative thoughts. It was not that easy especially when people looked at me like if I were from another planet but what a great feeling. From that point on, I've been in love with the double breasted suit thanks to you ! And what a change it is. This actually has a lot of charm and personality. Cheers !
I have to say, your videos, now, has been part of my everyday sartorial education! Thank you, Hugo.
Wonderful video yet again. I don’t know which is a better way to spend the afternoon: watching and listening to Hugo talking about suits or watching/listening to him talk about shoes!
As always, succinct, informative and full of wonderfully useful information
Many thanks Bruno for your kind words. Cheers, Hugo
Hugo honestly thank you for sharing your passion with us..i learn a lot from you..you are the reason who i am comfortable to have suits..because you teach us ..all the details..but first of all to be relax!!!
THESE IS NOT NEGOTIABLE...YOURS SHOES HAS TO BE IMPECCABLE
Thank you my friend, and yes your shoes must be impeccable for sure. Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Hugo you are so kind..have a nice day
Sartorial Talks is for people OBSESSED with Double Breasted! I love the 6x1 button style myself because I look less of a Wall Street stockbroker or Al Capone mob! But that is my personal taste!
Me too Dan, I prefer the 6X1, more versatile and slightly more interesting in terms of style. Cheers, Hugo
Always a pleasure watching your videos Hugo I always learn something new. Thank you ☺️
With pleasure my Captain. Hugo
Great Explanation again hugo!my first ever db suit were a pinstripe in white with navy background,looks very nice with a homburg and bowler,cheers hugo🥂
Cheers 🥂 my friend! Hugo
Dear Hugo and Sonya, wonderful and informative episode. Thank you! I have to say that the single breasted suit with a double breasted waistcoat, both with peak lapels, is my favorite suit of Hugo’s collection. I know it’s daring, but Hugo, you always look fantastic in it...with or without the jacket. Thanks again for your very helpful channel.
I’ve never had a double breasted suit but have been considering trying it. This video has been very helpful. Great contest as always Mr Jacomet!
"You know what? I don't care about your rules." Classic Hugo and one of the many reasons I adore this channel.
Great video. I just got my first double breasted suit today went with the classic 6x2 in a darker shade of gray from Gieves & Hawkes. It is a beautiful well fitting suit that I should get years of enjoyment out of.
I absolutely love these videos. Thank you so much for this information and insight!
The hardest thing to me about learning all this wonderful sartorial information is deciding what to do first! I love the double breasted suit but I also love waist coats, I'll have to make a choice soon because I'm getting measured for my first proper suit next week!
I’m always blown away that this information is free.
This is amazing Hugo. Looks like a kid an a candy store. You are so passionated by all things sartorial. Keep it going!
Many thanks Stevie for your energising words! Best, Hugo
All of the suits are amazing but that fourth one in blue and pinstripes looks very special!
It is a beautiful suit indeed Ralph. If I understand well you speak about the single-breasted with a DB vest. This fabric is wool and cashmere with a tone-on-tone chevron. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS indeed that's the suit. I just realized after watching the video how vests with lapels create such a refined look that isn't too obvious until it's pointed out. I will definitely have one of these made in the future!
@@raphthecollector3824 Yes Raph, peak lapels on a vest are beautiful. Hugo
I truly love this type of videos. Thank you so much. Cheers from Milano
You are very welcome George! Hugo
For casual jackets, single breasted usually works best, but for suits and tuxedos, I exclusively wear double-breasted. It is, in my opinion, the superior configuration of suit.
Dear Billy, I never considered the subject this way, but I understand you. Cheers, Hugo
Damned Hugo!every time i see your podcast,i really feel the need to suit up!!🤣🤣🤣
Go ahead Giannis! Best, Hugo
I have been watching your videos for a while now and been getting back into wearing suits. I just bought my first navy 6x2 double breasted suit (now I know what the numbers mean!) Thank you the wonderful videos! 😊
Fantastic news--enjoy the journey. Cheers ! Hugo
thank you for yet another great video. As it happens, I acquired a vintage double-breasted waistcoat with peak lapels made by Calibre here in Melbourne Australia which started way back when as the first Italian tailoring house but have since have become a corporate franchise with markedly different (trendy fashion) style now..
I'm glad you commented and hope you're enjoying your vintage DB waistcoat. Being from Australia, are you familiar with any seasoned well-reputed bespoke tailors there? Cheers ! Hugo
Always a pleasure to watch and listen to... repeatedly
Many thanks Andrea! Best, Hugo
That suit lasted more than 14 years, and Still in such a beautiful shape ? Waouh ! Shows to tell how much you save in those $5000 bespoke suits.
Great video, thank you!
Thank you for sharing your extensive knowledge.
With joy Gabrieli! Hugo
Always enjoy listening to you.
Many thanks my friend, Hugo
Double breasted waistcoats with lapels add a new dimension of formality! Love the paring with a single breasted jacket, especially a one button one!
Hugo and Sonya, Very informative! I recently bought a vintage double breasted blazer in a nice navy blue wool, with plain brass buttons: a six and two. The lapel is substantial and, of course, peaked :-) Man, I'm so pleased with it; the fit is very good; it feels lovely to wear (like a hug;-)). I never thught I'd wear something like this but I really enjoy wearing it. I'm a DB fan.
Merci/thanks
Tony
I understand you Tony, I'm also a DB fan for sure! Hugo
Spectacular! Love the video
Love this channel
Fantastic video. you're a vet good teacher.
Love the double-breasted suit! Most of mine are of this type. I prefer the 6/2 variety, but have two or three 4/1 as well.
Thank you my friend, Hugo
I Love The Double Breasted Suit 😀 Thank You Hugo Love The Series 😀😊👍🏼
Many thanks Chris! Hugo
Thank you very much. so a great story for me!!
If it’s a bespoke suit, the little “discreet” details are the beautiful things between you and the tailor that make it worth the time and the extra investment, yes? As for working in a vest...I’m a filmmaker and photographer. We “never” wear a suit, unless we are going to be referred to as the groom or the defendant on the day. When I’m directing or shooting, I think it looks buttoned down yet casual to work in a dress shirt, tie and vest, having dramatically removed my jacket as inspiration takes me! Affectation? Peut être. It works for me!
That four on one is definitely my thing!
It's a beautiful piece of tailoring indeed. Hugo
Thank you. Another class is in session 😎
Question: When do you choose to remove (or hide) the pocket flaps?
Yes Steve! On Air. Hugo
I can't believe this is only 15 minutes! I was sure the double breasted video would be at least an hour - what self control you have Hugo!
Yes John 😅 it requires a lot of self-control! Hugo
Great video man soo insightful! Are there any more YT channels like this that I could watch more videos on?
Thanks as always!
You are, as always, very welcome Brian! Hugo
lets go back to class people 6 on 1 ...., or lets just paly these numbers on todays jackpot. Thank you Hugo Sonya for another great one. Love you guys
Thank you Afsana and take care. Hugo
Oh Hugo you have created a monster lol. Ever since watching your videos when I make a jacket for a client I always suggest if it works for them if they would consider trying a double breasted or a little wider lapel. I find the proprtions of your suits beautiful and have a strong admiration for your tailors at Chifoneli and Sartoria Dalcuore! I would love to see an episode on Black tie apparel, I would love to hear your thoughts! Keep up the good work Cheers!
Dear Joey, we plan to dedicate an episode to formal attires, but I have to wait for two projects in progress in order to illustrate it with the right personal outfits (like a full formal white-tie attire). Cheers, Hugo
Currently I have a massive thing for waistcoats and I always drop the jacket whilst in the office and walk about in just the waistcoat. I really want a double breasted waistcoat with lapels - not sure I'm ready for big peaks but still.
Love the show and can't wait for the next one.
I understand you Alexander. Walking in a waistcoat is a very rewarding experience (especially with a tie). Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS tie or cravat for me. But a lower waistcoat like the doubles you have shown a tie is more suitable.
Please make a video on Pocket squares and how to style them.
Please.... More, just like this.
Thank you for your words of encouragement. Hugo
4:52 Excellent display of tact 😂
More than the beautiful suits and exquisite taste, I very much enjoy listening to you and your lovely wife speak, there's something very calming and reassuring about it especially during these troubling times.
In large part due to the influence of your channel, I now have two DB suits and a DB winter coat... though one thing still bothers me. I still can't find a convenient technique to button the anchoring button on the inside and I was wondering if you could touch on that?
Dear Calvin, congratulations for your progresses on the DB path. As for the anchoring button, it's just a matter of habit (as the movement is highly counter-intuitive). Cheers, Hugo
You are an amazing character! As a result, I am about to purchase two of your books (The Parisian and Italian Gentlemen)!
It's my brother's birthday soon and thought that it would be amazing if I could get it 'signed'. Is it possible to arrange this at all?
Thank you, Sir!
Excellent my dear, and i loved your tie,,,,amazing and very elegant,,,,,love to you and Sonya from Cairo.
Thank you Nader. This is a wool tie by Calabrese in Napoli. Cheers, Hugo
Soon u will have 1 million subscribers...
We hope one day! Hugo
Double breasted is my favorite style of jacket and vest/waistcoat.
Same here Val! Hugo
Another awesome video Hugo! What's your opinion on removing the top 2 (nipple) buttons and turning my 6x2 into a 4x2?
Dear friend, it can work for sure (even if I like the Y for the buttons). Cheers, Hugo
Dear Hugo,
Can you do a video about which stitches to remove on suits/coats that are bought off the rack?(i dont know if bespoke tailors put these in)
I know some pockets are closed and that there ussually is a stitch at the back vents for example which should be removed. I recently bought a doublebreasted overcoat with peak lapels and im not sure if i'm suppost to remove part of the stitching thats behind the peak lapels, can you expand on the back of the collars what they are suppost to look like?
First, thank you so much for your amazing, insightful videos!
Next, I am a bigger guy, and just placed a MTM order for my first double breasted jacket…you always say that as long as the fit is good, then bigger guys can look great in a DB jacket…what specific things about the fit should I pay attention to when I first receive and try on the jacket? How should a DB jacket fit on a bigger guy, or another way to put it, what kind of aesthetic should be avoided when it comes to DB jackets and bigger guys? Thanks again!
Double breast is the way to go. I love the video especially the daring suits👍🏾
Hugo, I'd like to ask you about the 6x2 convertible to 6x1. I believe you have one from Sartoria Manna. I think the outer lapel rolls down to the very bottom button. But what about the other lapel? Does it roll to the level of the very bottom button as well or to the level of the button above it?
Your videos are very educational and of an exceptional quality.
It would be amazing / fantastic if you also had a personal premium styling service where people could hire you to examine / analyise their current wardrobe / lifestyle / body type and shape / skin colouring / objectives and then put in place a overall styling plan for them.
If not your company, perhaps you can recommend quality stylists / coaches.
Greetings from Tucuman Argentina
Wonderful video! I'm planning on having a bespoke navy double breasted blazer done similar to the one you were wearing in your single breasted jacket vid. On a related note, how do you feel about the 8 on 3 blazer like worn by prince Charles? Cheers
Dear NK, at first I thought this 8X3 was way too much buttoned. But I must admit I don't dislike it. I may try one like that, but not for a blazer, for a suit jacket. Cheers, Hugo
Hugo, can you consider in a future video please how one should carry items in pockets. I find if I put a mobile phone or wallet or keys in a jacket pocket it sometimes pulls the jacket out of shape. I would like to know how pockets can be constructed to avoid this so that I can give clear instructions to a tailor.
Awesome 😎
Thank you Hans! Hugo
Helllo Hugo and the voice of Sonya :) Double breasted suits are beautiful, I have recently bought a lot of double breasted jackets and two suits.
Yes Davide, same here! Cheers, Hugo
Dear Jacomet, Could you to tell us something about uses a Robe at night? history, etiquette etc.
I'm not a specialist but we'll address this one day or another. Cheers, Hugo
First time commissioning a suit: "hello mr tailor, I would like to make use of your services, than you for taking the time to see me"
20th time commissioning a suit: "omg Lorenzo you won't believe the most ridiculous idea I just had! lets put peak lapels on the waistcoat as well as the jacket xD!"
😂 that's a funny comment. Cheers, Hugo
Another great video! Thank you. What do you do to the buttons when you sit down?
Dear Caetano, I normally unbutton them for better comfort. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS All? Even the ones of the waistcoat?
@@caetanoalmeidaebrito6306 No, not the waistcoat of course 😅. Hugo
I always love my double breasted suit especially it makes me look a little bigger. I haven't tried 6 on 1 yet currently I have 6 on 2 but I have seen ones like 8 on 3 before which I find it to be even more daring.
I've seen suits like the one you mention. It's very... buttoned! Cheers, Hugo
I’m 6’ 2” or 188cm and have a very narrow build at least for an American. For business settings would you recommend a 6x2 or a 4x1 which I would most likely pair with a 5 button waistcoat.
Dear Ryan, I would say a 6X2, but you don't need a waistcoat for a DB. Cheers, Hugo
Dear Hugo, will you cover tuxedo in this chanel in the future?
Hey Hugo, I've always been curious of this detail,
Have the inactive buttons on the double breasted suit always been cosmetic or did they button up like some old military greatcoat once upon a time?
The origin of the DB is the military Pea Coat (for the Navy). And on those garments, there are no inactive buttons. All of them can be used. Cheers, Hugo
Something I've wondered about: was it historically the case that the side with now purely decorative buttons actually buttoned through?
Dear Aaron, I believe one side has always been decorative, even on military pea-coats. Cheers, Hugo
A great guide, Hugo, very informative and beautifully presented. For people who are "un peu gros," which of those styles would you recommend and what should we, er, they look for in a double-breasted suit?
Dear friend, if you are a little bit stout, you have to be very careful with DBs and make sure it fits very well, otherwise it can be a little bit dangerous for the silhouette. Maybe offset the Y buttoning and go for 4X1 (to reduce the visual impression of width). All my best, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Thank you!
@@wasabista1613 Sure
I love DB suits and almost all are 6 on 2 but i have one 6 on 1..but what confuses me is do i sit with it with buttons closed..or do you open them when sitting.
the 6 on 3. I have one, and after plenty of resistance I think it probably looks better with all 3 buttons fastened (ie, bottom one, too) - it seems more streamlined. Would you regard this as an unpardonable error?
No Tim, of course not, but 6 on 3 buttons too high for my taste. Cheers, Hugo
Hi Hugo. Lovely video, and instruction on the Double breasted suit. I was wondering, where did you get your finger ring?
Look forward to more videos.
//Robin
On the 6X2 double breasted suit there are two button positions. I prefer the "Y" position of the buttons as opposed to the parallel style which are all in an up and down sequence. What are your thoughts on the button positions?
Dear Daniel, the Y is the most classic for 6X2 while the parallel is often seen on 4X1. I like both. Cheers, Hugo
It is quite interesting that double breasted suit with all active buttons on the opposite side - like 6 on 3, 4 on 2, or 8 on 4 - are a norm in military service dress (especially Navy and Coast Guard), but far less popular among civilian that tend to have some button on the opposite side inactive. Is it more like a fashion thing or more like practical side?
I call the first one a 2 show 3, that’s what we called in British tailoring
Hugo, what is your opinion of the 6 on 3 double breasted suit that was popular with the mods in the 1960's? Adam of London have some good examples.
Dear Reece, I don't dislike it at all, although it's, by definition, a very "closed" garment with a military feel. All my best, Hugo
love it.. husband and i were just talking what it is called for the buttons.. i said its double breasted then he said no that's the extra fabric. guess i might have to tell him he is right lol..
Thank you Danielle and say hello to your husband for me! Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS oh thank you so much i will. have a great day.
Bravo. M.
Many thanks, H.
I was going to comment on the first episode about the visibility of your shirt that is allowed by the jacket's design. You especially seem to see the lack of visibility on DB suits vs SB. I tend to like small to medium visibility. I like the formality. But having more shirt visible has a more, approachable appeal. Like the jacket you wore on this video.
There is also one thing I'm curious about... How much tie to show under the buttoned area of the jacket. You have a little tie showing. But some jackets, show none.
Any opinion on this?
I think the buttoning rule is the easiest on double breasted, because unlike with single breasted where the preferred way is to leave the bottom one unbuttoned, on double breasted the correct way is to button all functional buttons. Wearing a single breasted all buttoned, even a novice will let you know you've buttoned it wrong. Wearing a double breasted with the bottom button undone, however, will never get any attention, because very few know that the rule does not apply to double breasted jackets or vests.
Personally I wear my double breasted jackets open alot, especially when I'm walking outside. If I'm in a social situation standing and talking or giving a presentation or otherwise presenting I go all buttoned formal correct way. When sitting I like to have the jacket open and when going to the restroom in a restaurant I only button the top one. So every time I'm only going to button the jacket for a short while to give some formal figure I button the top one only and not even the inside jitter button. Only when standing alot or presenting I close the whole thing inside out. All of this sounds very confusing, but I've found it's the most natural way for me to wear my double breasted suits and jackets. You cannot reach the same level of versatility with single breasted.
(and if someone has the audacity to criticise me buttoning the bottom button publically I'll just give them this lecture in real life :D)
Thank you my friend for such a thoughtful comment! Very useful for all of us. And I would not have the audacity to criticise your way to button the bottom buttons 😅😅. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Cheers!
Dear Hugo! It is not a secret that youtube is mainly English speaking. So all of us from time to tome find American and British programs where we can see and borrow style ideas. I do not even mean TH-cam programs, but BBS TV Talk shows for example. Would you please review French, or may be Italian programs, significant in terms of style, if you could? Thanks!
Please, be our window to France!
Like "C'est Jean Pierre! This is how he dressed up, and this is why."
Dear Hugo,
I am a late 20's lawyer who recently inherited my dad's 6x1 peak lapel DB suit. The suit fits me perfectly. Mais cependant, j'ne sais pas si un jeune home doit/peut porter un costume 6x1!!!
Hugo, j'te serais reconnaissant si tu pouvais me conseiller stp.
Oh que oui, s'il vous va bien portez le fièrement ! Amicalement, Hugo
Are rounded/open quarter double breasted jackets a thing? To me, the major advantage of the single and double breasted suit, respectively, is that the former with its more open front offers a visually longer leg line/rise and the latter builds a stronger chest. I wonder if one could have the best of both worlds. I imagine it wouldn't work and the jacket would become too top heavy but it sounds interesting lol
Hi
Why don’t you make a video on best jeans brand ?
You know that you know it all when you say
«As you know I’m a big fan... I’m very obsessed with double breasted suit» but still do the video with a single breasted suit 🤣
I acquired a beautiful double breasted suit, & it's a 6 on 2.
Congratulations Carlos! Hugo
Hi sir i luv u r style ...
How much micron wool suit do u have?
Drago spa vs kiton fabrics vs Vitale barberis
Which one would be the better fabric
Many thanks. The suit I wear is a simple super 120s (from 2007). So it's 17,5 microns. The highest I have is a super 210s by Piacenza (13,25 microns). All three are great fabrics. Best, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS awesome sir ...
Super 210's fabrics where available in Italy ... I'm Italian residing Chianti region ...
What may price per metre sir ..?
I love love double breasted suits; 6 on 4 with wide peak lapels...always. However, what is the appropriate vent? Side, center, or no vents? I always pick no vents as I want the jacket to maintain its shape as I walk. I unbutton the jacket when I sit down to maintain the shape or take it off. I am thinking side vents [2] will allow you to sit down with the jacket buttoned and the jacket will keep its shape. My issue with side vents is that it highlights the man's derriere unnecessarily or make his hips look larger than they are. This looks awkward and unkempt. What do you think? :)
Greetings from ny..excellent video ad always..hugo ...i love your enthusiasm for the double breasted....i feel the same way..6×2..6×1...it does not matter..i wear it....the 3 piece suit..double breasted vest peak lapels..jacket peak lapels..i saw you wear yours..i was so impressed that where i buy my suits..i bought 2....lapels not as wide as yours..but you inspired me..thanks..cheers..also please say hello to your wonderful wife for me...
Thank you Kenneth for your kind and encouraging words. And congratulations for your two new suits. Cheers, Hugo
Would the six on one be of use to those who may be shorter, would the longer V up top draw the eye more upwards than the viewer focused on the overall height of the person? I like how the double breasted avoids the aweful bottom V that can happen where you see a gentleman's shirt and tie and belt all down bottom, taking the eye off the face.
Mr Jacomet, how did you manage to wear your jackets from 2007? I bought my bespoke DB jackets 4 years ago and now I gained weight so i can't fit into my double breasted jackets anymore. how did you maintain your body shape? any tips?
Good food (with minimum to zero processed food), a balanced diet and a little bit of exercise. No big secrets. By the way, your tailor can easily alter your suits to make them fit. Cheers my friend, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS have you ever asked the tailor for any major alteration before?
@@AcapRoseknightDrummer Oh yes, more than you can imagine 😂. Hugo