This is an excellent tutorial using simple terms that is easy to follow. It will save me from making many mistakes as a first time masonry grout bag user. Thanks Patrick for taking the time to share your years of experience and knowledge.
lol the good old grout bag. i started out on a tuck-pointing crew when i was 17 years old, working in St.Louis. my boss taught us all to point using traditional hok and jointer.... i really wish that boss was still alive so i could blow his mind with how much faster, easier, and cleaner a grout bag makes the job.
The bag isn’t supposed to pack the grout In . That comes after it sets a bit , when you are ready to tool / finish it . I have a 1/4 pipe I use to pack n finish
Sorry that is not tuck pointing it’s flush pointing there are many types of pointing tuck pointing was mainly used on Georgian properties in England and has a very thin lime line in the centre of the flush joint. Mostly all done by trowel very skilled and very neat and expensive because mostly done on listed buildings
Thank you so much for this video. I am an apprentice for a home remodeling. Company has a project manager who does not know how to be a teacher. He told me to tuck point a foundation. I have never done tuckpointing And he didn’t tell/teach me how to do it. I started throwing mortor on it. Watched this video tonight and realized I did everything wrong…. Going back tomorrow to fix my patchwork….. integrity of a good job, no warranty work.
Damn im so glad these videos are helping people! I have another one im gonna upload soon on how to use a grout bag and a barrel jointer, its the jointer most often used for finishing the joints. Subscribe if youd like and it'll notify you when it uploads! It very direct and to the point but very much in depth! Thanks!!
Dude this video was REALLY helpful thanks a lot! I felt like I was learning this in person. You're a great teacher man, I hope you make more videos. Don't feel like you have to make these shorter, the in-depth explanation and getting all the vocabulary of the trade helps a newbie like me.
thank god i had time to listen to your super slow pace. Still enjoyed and learned something i think. After the bag, would you normally push it the mortar in with the concave jointer? wish you and the family the best
Thanks for the video. What you’ve done may not be “tuck pointing” in the English application, but it’s effective for a chimney. I suspect your work that’s more visually appealing is cleaner. That brick work to begin with on this particular chimney had a lot to do with the final result. And to the folks here in the comments complaining the video is too long, go somewhere else. He provided the detail people may require otherwise.
I have a cinder block garage that was built back into a bank, typical in West Virginia. The bank pushed in the walls a bit. I dug out around the garage and removed the mortar in the affected seams, then pushed the walls back into position. I'm removing a few blocks near the top to fill the hollows with concrete. Now I have to tuck point the empty seams. I've done a little where I replaced a block but the problem with the wide open empty beds and heads is the mortar falling out the back when tuck pointing. Any tips on using the bag on empty cinder block seams?
Do you use a pre-mixed mortar (such as Quikrete Mortar Mix, type N, 1102)? What type n, s or something else? If you mix your own, how much sand? I tried an Anvil bag and Quikrete Mortar Mix, type N. I kept cutting the nozzle opening wider (almost to the bag) and adding more water but in the bag the mixture always packed tight just before the nozzle. My final try, In the mixing bucket the stuff was thin enough I could pour it into the bag and it still packed tight just before the nozzle
I had the same issue using type N mortar, although i was able to get it thin enough to flow it was then to thin to do any vertical joints, just kept running out and down the brick. I feel like Patricks tip about to much sand in the mix is the issue.
@@shawnmazurek1017 I just watched the first part again and I finally understand. He does not use a pre-mix. He mixes his own mortar using 2 1/2 parts sand one part of straight cement (cement with lime). If the mortar will not flow through the bag add a bit more straight cement. Off to Home Depot for a bag of masonry cement.type n. Already switched to type s mortar mix
Hey, thanks for the great video. It really helped. Did you do a followup acidwash? Also on interior brick walls would you still use a grinder on the joints to open them up? That would make a real mess. Thanks in advance
Hey there! Thank you for your positive feedback! Yes I ALWAYS wash my work with acid, usually vana-trol is best. Interior mortar removal is very tricky. I would use a hepa vac or a tool called an arbortec. It created alot less dust. Theres always the old fashion way with the hammer and pointing chisel also! Lol
@@patrickgifford3589 hey, thanks for the reply. Im looking up the arbortec but I can only find wood carvers. Which tool are you thinking of. Thanks alot again
I have a masonry restoration company specializing in BRICK-POINTING in Massachusetts and in my opinion it's more profitable than structural masonry. Be reporting your basically waterproofing the brick then if you apply a water repellent you then have two layers of protection. In my opinion a grout bag is very messy, stick to traditional trowel and jointing key pointing!!!
.I agree with that. When it comes to masonry pointing speed kills. And you can't be sure of total contact in the inside of the joint. I even saw some little gaps in the video.
I would like to know if there is anything I can brush on the bricks (like green soap) to help mask them, so after I grout the bricks, it will be easier to clean them if cement scum.
Well done video Patrick. Your explanations were thorough, easy to understand. I came away feeling like I learned something. Quick question, I'm assuming this same technique is used for natural stone facing? Cheers
Thank you Carroll! Yes it would be exactly the same! I have some stone videos coming up soon if youd like to subscribe it'll notify you when I post them. One of the videos will be on stone patching also! Most people dont even know its a thing. Thanks for your support!
This was a great video and walkthrough! Would you suggest the same finish for restoring the interior brick wall? Asking as I would like to do this to restore mine and do it myself if its straightforward enough and not too time consuming but I wonder how to stop the grout from degrading( crumbling ) over time once it's restored?
Hey! Thanks for the comment! Yes you can do.the same finish on the interior and there's a product called "dust proofer" you can apply the the brick. It seals it up and helps preserve mortar joints. I have a video on actual tuckpointing also if youd like to learn how to do it that way instead of using a grout bag.
After you scrap away the hardened mortar from the head and bed joints apply a masonry brush and hit the joints so the aggregate will come out of the newly pointed mortar joints. A for effort
Hey Daniel its not very hard to match. You can get speciality mortars at brick yards or they sell an insane amout of different dyes you can add to the mortar.
I like to use a 2 to 1 mix for using a grout bag. It makes it flow out a little easier especially if its a coarser sand. Typically people do a 2 1/2 to one and that's 2 1/2 sand to 1 mortar. In alot of cases when laying brick and regular style tuckpointing some will use 3 to 1. Its all personal preference. Just make sure you keep the mixture consistent especially if your using colored mortar cause it'll change the color slightly if its not consistent.
Only need fire clay inside the firebox.....where its being exposed to fire....the rest Masonry type S should be sufficient.....or at least down south....hope this helps ya😁✌
You need 2 parts sand to one cement on newer brick . Portland cement is harder so if you use that go 2 1/2 to one cement if you have old brick because they are too soft and will break. Pack the joints and be careful to finish what you do before the brick sucks all the water out of it. He did like a half raked finish thing. Just make sure you dont go over it with a slicker when its wet or it will bleach bright white
@@1BadSavage What would you recommend for bricks from the mid-1940's? My house is showing light wear in the mortar joints (small "holes" but nothing major) and I want to have it repaired by someone who'll use the right mix. There are no big gaps, but in the actual mortar there are little "pits" of some sort, like the mortar is slowing wearing away.
@@SheenaRea 2 1/2 sand to one Type N. soft brick requires soft cement so you can do a couple things. especially if you live in freezing climate because it will deteriorate again. A type N cement with bar sand or fine beach sand. 2 1/2 sand to 1 cement. It will do the job and your bricks wont bust. Use a anti freezer for about 20 bucks and dont do it if theres gonna be a cold rain for the next few days or its gonna bleach bad
This is not tuck pointing. Tuck pointing is to simulate a Gauged joint from a sandard joint. You flat point the wall, cut a thin line in the mortar (sometimes plum wash the brick) then plant on a thin putty joint.
Hahaha this is ridiculous. We definitely dont point like this in England. Not full joints, scratching the brickwork and using a silly bag! Pathetic!!!!!
Pros don't use bags,,, they use a hawk and a pointing tool,no city, county or state facilities will lrt you use a bag, I've been doing masonry restoration for ,30 years in the Midwest,,,,bags are for people that don't know how to use the right tools,and a bag only cost $5,,,,,,
Grout bags are for amatuers. What a mess and then you have to wash down with cleaner. If you wash a chimney you better have running water on the shingled roof or your going to bleach the roof. If it 's a wall cover the glass windows ,shrubs and keep the pets away. Grout bags are for decorating cakes.
Blows my mind that after 26 years this is how your work looks.
This is an excellent tutorial using simple terms that is easy to follow. It will save me from making many mistakes as a first time masonry grout bag user. Thanks Patrick for taking the time to share your years of experience and knowledge.
lol the good old grout bag. i started out on a tuck-pointing crew when i was 17 years old, working in St.Louis. my boss taught us all to point using traditional hok and jointer.... i really wish that boss was still alive so i could blow his mind with how much faster, easier, and cleaner a grout bag makes the job.
A pointing tool and a hawk are still the right way to go,a bag don't push the mud in the joint
The bag isn’t supposed to pack the grout In . That comes after it sets a bit , when you are ready to tool / finish it . I have a 1/4 pipe I use to pack n finish
3 times slower sir
Sorry that is not tuck pointing it’s flush pointing there are many types of pointing tuck pointing was mainly used on Georgian properties in England and has a very thin lime line in the centre of the flush joint. Mostly all done by trowel very skilled and very neat and expensive because mostly done on listed buildings
Tell him! Busy scraping the bricks!! 🫨
Thank you so much for this video. I am an apprentice for a home remodeling. Company has a project manager who does not know how to be a teacher. He told me to tuck point a foundation. I have never done tuckpointing And he didn’t tell/teach me how to do it. I started throwing mortor on it. Watched this video tonight and realized I did everything wrong…. Going back tomorrow to fix my patchwork….. integrity of a good job, no warranty work.
Damn im so glad these videos are helping people! I have another one im gonna upload soon on how to use a grout bag and a barrel jointer, its the jointer most often used for finishing the joints. Subscribe if youd like and it'll notify you when it uploads! It very direct and to the point but very much in depth! Thanks!!
Dude this video was REALLY helpful thanks a lot! I felt like I was learning this in person. You're a great teacher man, I hope you make more videos. Don't feel like you have to make these shorter, the in-depth explanation and getting all the vocabulary of the trade helps a newbie like me.
Ditto . Appreciate your video.❤😊 makes total sense as to why I have some small leaks in my basement .
Nice dude, I'm up in toledo so I get that exact weather. Hope your business booms, God bless!
Thanks for keeping those beautiful homes staying beautiful.
Great video!! Learned a lot !!
thank god i had time to listen to your super slow pace. Still enjoyed and learned something i think. After the bag, would you normally push it the mortar in with the concave jointer? wish you and the family the best
Thanks for the video. What you’ve done may not be “tuck pointing” in the English application, but it’s effective for a chimney. I suspect your work that’s more visually appealing is cleaner. That brick work to begin with on this particular chimney had a lot to do with the final result. And to the folks here in the comments complaining the video is too long, go somewhere else. He provided the detail people may require otherwise.
Why not use a jointer to compact the mortar and a more quick and smoother finish... Less scratched bricks? I'm newb
Thanks for the tutorial!
I have a cinder block garage that was built back into a bank, typical in West Virginia. The bank pushed in the walls a bit. I dug out around the garage and removed the mortar in the affected seams, then pushed the walls back into position. I'm removing a few blocks near the top to fill the hollows with concrete. Now I have to tuck point the empty seams. I've done a little where I replaced a block but the problem with the wide open empty beds and heads is the mortar falling out the back when tuck pointing. Any tips on using the bag on empty cinder block seams?
Dampen dry brick before pointing.
Excellent. Thanks mate 🙂
Thank you. I have a lot to repair. ❤
Do you use a pre-mixed mortar (such as Quikrete Mortar Mix, type N, 1102)? What type n, s or something else? If you mix your own, how much sand?
I tried an Anvil bag and Quikrete Mortar Mix, type N. I kept cutting the nozzle opening wider (almost to the bag) and adding more water but in the bag the mixture always packed tight just before the nozzle. My final try, In the mixing bucket the stuff was thin enough I could pour it into the bag and it still packed tight just before the nozzle
I had the same issue using type N mortar, although i was able to get it thin enough to flow it was then to thin to do any vertical joints, just kept running out and down the brick. I feel like Patricks tip about to much sand in the mix is the issue.
@@shawnmazurek1017 I just watched the first part again and I finally understand. He does not use a pre-mix. He mixes his own mortar using 2 1/2 parts sand one part of straight cement (cement with lime). If the mortar will not flow through the bag add a bit more straight cement.
Off to Home Depot for a bag of masonry cement.type n. Already switched to type s mortar mix
@@charlesmoore766 did it work? I'm having the same problem
@@stollay My mixes were still to thin or to thick. Gave up trying to use a bag.
@@charlesmoore766fair enough. Thanks for the reply
Hey, thanks for the great video. It really helped. Did you do a followup acidwash?
Also on interior brick walls would you still use a grinder on the joints to open them up? That would make a real mess. Thanks in advance
Hey there! Thank you for your positive feedback! Yes I ALWAYS wash my work with acid, usually vana-trol is best. Interior mortar removal is very tricky. I would use a hepa vac or a tool called an arbortec. It created alot less dust. Theres always the old fashion way with the hammer and pointing chisel also! Lol
@@patrickgifford3589 hey, thanks for the reply. Im looking up the arbortec but I can only find wood carvers. Which tool are you thinking of. Thanks alot again
Its actually spelled "arbortech" I forgot the H at the end. Theyre pretty costly but basically do the job of a grinder and saw with alot less dust!
@@patrickgifford3589 thanks alot.
I have a masonry restoration company specializing in BRICK-POINTING in Massachusetts and in my opinion it's more profitable than structural masonry. Be reporting your basically waterproofing the brick then if you apply a water repellent you then have two layers of protection. In my opinion a grout bag is very messy, stick to traditional trowel and jointing key pointing!!!
.I agree with that. When it comes to masonry pointing speed kills. And you can't be sure of total contact in the inside of the joint. I even saw some little gaps in the video.
what is the product you used to remove the mortar from the face of the bricks. Sorry, I don't recognize what you said.
It called vana-trol
I would like to know if there is anything I can brush on the bricks (like green soap) to help mask them, so after I grout the bricks, it will be easier to clean them if cement scum.
.
There's a brick cleaner buy chimney saver products ... try allowing your mortar joint to dry longer!! Alot of portland in your mix?
Well done video Patrick. Your explanations were thorough, easy to understand. I came away feeling like I learned something. Quick question, I'm assuming this same technique is used for natural stone facing? Cheers
Thank you Carroll! Yes it would be exactly the same! I have some stone videos coming up soon if youd like to subscribe it'll notify you when I post them. One of the videos will be on stone patching also! Most people dont even know its a thing. Thanks for your support!
That's horrible. 😭
Awesome
This was a great video and walkthrough! Would you suggest the same finish for restoring the interior brick wall? Asking as I would like to do this to restore mine and do it myself if its straightforward enough and not too time consuming but I wonder how to stop the grout from degrading( crumbling ) over time once it's restored?
Hey! Thanks for the comment! Yes you can do.the same finish on the interior and there's a product called "dust proofer" you can apply the the brick. It seals it up and helps preserve mortar joints. I have a video on actual tuckpointing also if youd like to learn how to do it that way instead of using a grout bag.
@@patrickgifford3589 thank you so much
After you scrap away the hardened mortar from the head and bed joints apply a masonry brush and hit the joints so the aggregate will come out of the newly pointed mortar joints. A for effort
Tried one of those electric mortar gun drills?
My old house has a reddish color to its brick jointing, is that hard to do or match?
Hey Daniel its not very hard to match. You can get speciality mortars at brick yards or they sell an insane amout of different dyes you can add to the mortar.
Nice job Pat 👍👍
What your moater mix? You do you add to your mix to make it smoother to run through a bag.
I like to mix the mortar 2.5 to 1. It makes it a bit creamier and flows through the bag easier.
Never used a wire brush on masonry. Any masonry spec will tell you that.
How much should you charge for labor?
I usually charge between 7-10 a linear ft. It depends on height and accessibility. If it's 3 stories tall, you obviously would need to charge more
I wish you would come do my house. We are trying to repair ourselves and it is not going well. North Florida.
You need to pack the mud in the joint with a pointing tool,a bag just lays the mud in there,,,,, basically a bag is only doing a half ass job
This guy is talking massive rubbish in England we point the brickwork properly
Hap hazard smashed YES
What is a mixture for mortar cement & water
I like to use a 2 to 1 mix for using a grout bag. It makes it flow out a little easier especially if its a coarser sand. Typically people do a 2 1/2 to one and that's 2 1/2 sand to 1 mortar. In alot of cases when laying brick and regular style tuckpointing some will use 3 to 1. Its all personal preference. Just make sure you keep the mixture consistent especially if your using colored mortar cause it'll change the color slightly if its not consistent.
hey thanks a lot this really helped me if you lived close to me id come work with you for free just to lern but thanks a lot
Thank you so much for making this video. For a chimney, is there a special mortar you use that handles the heat? or all mortar is the same?
Only need fire clay inside the firebox.....where its being exposed to fire....the rest Masonry type S should be sufficient.....or at least down south....hope this helps ya😁✌
You need 2 parts sand to one cement on newer brick . Portland cement is harder so if you use that go 2 1/2 to one cement if you have old brick because they are too soft and will break.
Pack the joints and be careful to finish what you do before the brick sucks all the water out of it. He did like a half raked finish thing. Just make sure you dont go over it with a slicker when its wet or it will bleach bright white
@@1BadSavage What would you recommend for bricks from the mid-1940's? My house is showing light wear in the mortar joints (small "holes" but nothing major) and I want to have it repaired by someone who'll use the right mix. There are no big gaps, but in the actual mortar there are little "pits" of some sort, like the mortar is slowing wearing away.
@@SheenaRea 2 1/2 sand to one Type N. soft brick requires soft cement so you can do a couple things. especially if you live in freezing climate because it will deteriorate again.
A type N cement with bar sand or fine beach sand. 2 1/2 sand to 1 cement.
It will do the job and your bricks wont bust.
Use a anti freezer for about 20 bucks and dont do it if theres gonna be a cold rain for the next few days or its gonna bleach bad
Love to see a acid wash video!!
Yeah seriously lol
This is not tuck pointing. Tuck pointing is to simulate a Gauged joint from a sandard joint. You flat point the wall, cut a thin line in the mortar (sometimes plum wash the brick) then plant on a thin putty joint.
What is his pet peeve about the corner?
I’m in the key tag club to bud
Hahaha this is ridiculous. We definitely dont point like this in England.
Not full joints, scratching the brickwork and using a silly bag! Pathetic!!!!!
that is not tuck pointing, thats flush pointing. Tuck pointing is a very skilled job, and nothing like that.
Would have a square.metre of mud in the wall before the bag is full. Grout bags are for bakers. Hand tools all the way ⚒️
My house is 3020 sqft. It was built in 1987. The entire home is brick and a ton of it. My house needs tuck pointed. You want the job?
Hey there, where are you located?
Where are you?
Cincinnati, Ohio
That's not tuck pointing, that's flush pointing. Tuck pointing with with lime putty and is 3mm thick. That's what real tuck pointing is in England
Im in Cincinnati do you have contact info i need some areas of my house done
I recognize that key tag
I need help on chimney can u help in cincinnati
We're s the tuck pointing 😂
It’s not tuck pointing
That is not tuck pointing
i would’ve gotten fired😂
Tuck pointing?
Took to much time to start I left after 5 mins boring
😅
Why don't you just tuck point it and alleviate the grout bag p
It's not rocket science it's just pointing up a chimney
Did you die at the end of the video?
no Disrespect but this isn't properly Finished
Pros don't use bags,,, they use a hawk and a pointing tool,no city, county or state facilities will lrt you use a bag, I've been doing masonry restoration for ,30 years in the Midwest,,,,bags are for people that don't know how to use the right tools,and a bag only cost $5,,,,,,
Does it work through? Why is it not as good?
Video not clear
Geez this guys does more explaining than showing…
JackOFF of all master of ZERO
Baker!
No 😂
What a messy job I wouldn't want you doing any for me .terrible work.
dude gets paid by the hour it seems
Pass!
Wrong 🎉
Brickwork is terrible
To much talking. Interest lost moved on.
hardly professional, you scratched the brick face with the jointer and the pointing looked messy…
Looks gorgeous after it was washed. But thanks for your comment. Gtfoh
Yeah I would never hire this guy. Very poor work!
That reminds me I need to squeeze one out I think I need a donald trump!lol
Professionals do not use grout bags.
Your mortar is too strong.it's meant to be sacrificial
Its definitely not to strong.
Grout bags are for amatuers. What a mess and then you have to wash down with cleaner. If you wash a chimney you better have running water on the shingled roof or your going to bleach the roof. If it 's a wall cover the glass windows ,shrubs and keep the pets away. Grout bags are for decorating cakes.
A mess
Should have watched the entire video before I commented. That job looks horrible.
Wow! Close but no cigar friend. Go back to school.
Get a proper brush and beat it in please!
That's not tuck pointing