Warning! Within 4 months of light use my FANATEC McLaren wheel cracked at the shifter pivot point and where it mounted to the QR. I was accused of over tightening although I used a torque wrench set at 3nm. FANATEC then replaced the wheel chassis admitting in writing it was a weakness in the wheel. Very soon after my CSL load cell pedal failed. I sent a video before sending the pedal set back as requested. I was required to make a follow up email after not hearing back. FANATEC said they can not fault the pedals asking if I want then sent back which I found a strange thing to ask? Eventually they were returned however within minutes I experienced the same issue which was consistent with magnetic interference from the CSL DD wheel base before the load cell pedal would completely shut down. I was beyond my limits at this point and driven to warn as many potential customers as I could while demanding a replacement. Following the usual delayed response, FANATEC then offered a replacement only if a show proof that they faulty load cell was again on its way back to them. FANATEC’s poor response time drove me to desperation. Keep in mind I have owned this new product for around 6 months when 2 major failures occurred. An electric technician overheard my experience and offered assistance. I was able to demonstrate the issue and within minutes the technician diagnosed a defective voltage regulator attached to the load cell circuit board. The voltage regulator is designed to reduce 5 volts coming from the wheel base or USB down to the required 3.3volts. There was no signal out of the regulator which he replaced. No thanks to FANATEC I am now enjoying my sim racing again while I hold my breath for the next FANATEC failure. Please take my advise and look at the FANATEC’s own forum in regards to all the issues they have and their terrible customer service.
I feel your pain and i will make a new video about it soon. I also had multiple issues after this one. Pedal problems and more. I was pretty pissed off, i got some replacement stuff but that also broke. They tried to blame it all on my usage.... After a few emails they just stopped responding. Not a nice way to treat customers who spend quite a bit of money. I just hope us both can warn plenty of people for the crap they are selling. And its not just coincidental for us, i see many complaints. Sorry for the late response, i missed your comment.
@@DutchRCFamily Ik heb m nu een maand in gebruik zonder problemen. Ik heb wel uit voorzorg een andere klem (google: Fanatec CSL DD Pro Shaft Clamp) gekocht op ebay, vergelijkbaar met wat op de duurdere modellen zit en hij hangt er kaarsrecht in, geen "wobble"... Verder gebruik ik een stuk isolatietape om te voorkomen dat het stuur bonkt. Werkt perfect en ik gebruik 'm meerdere uren per dag en dat dagelijks!
Late to the party here, but I have just purchased the CSL DD one year after this video and the problem still exists! I have tried this tape trick which, most of the time works but I have also found another solution. I got a pair of medical gloves and cut off one of the fingers and cut the end off to make a tube. I have put this over the shaft and being rubber it seems to have done the trick. May be worth giving it a go if everything else fails.
Just got my DD kit and started driving. The clicking was there immediately as I was running the 8nm power pack. After a quick search, I found your video, and it worked a treat. Thank you
Not even 3 days of use maybe 6 hours and I found this clicking, thank you for this. def gonna be buying the upgrade but it’s just wild to me that this is STILL a issue
Agreed, they never even gave an excuse for this issue. Only that its normal to slightly move, yet this is not slightly, wich i mentioned to them quite some times. Not really customer friendly imo.
My 1 week old DD pro developed the same issue this week. Felt like cogs slipping which made my £1000 wheel feel like a £200 Logitech! 2 pieces of tape has made it like new! Thanks for the tip!
Even later to the party. Still same issue (no wonder they are going bankrupt). This trick works wonderfully well! Thank you. It feels like playing with a brand new wheel! (It is actually new but didn’t feel like that…
Are they going bankrupt? Well at least that explains why my email to them asking if they have the Clubsport 2.5 wheelbase limiter collar as a spare part was never answered. Never mind though, I bought a CAD file for $10 and am getting one SLA printed by a specialist 3D printing firm. Thanks Fanatec!!
@@jonathanparle8429 I mailed them quite allot about this issue, also to try and use my warenty. I once had a short mail back that movement could be possible with the QR but that it is hardly noticeable. I replied with this youtube link and directed them to the comments, never got a reply back.
Thanks for the video. I been having the exact same issue. Same base, wheel and quick release. It's crazy how much we all pay for this product and the type of issues that we are all having. What also amazes me is that they said to use tape to solve the issue. What they SHOULD do is send the proper quick release to those that are having the issue. Now I kind of wish I went with Moza.
I agree, service is poor. I emailed them a couple of times but always get the same reply "a little movement always happens and we are working on a new version" This just isnt a little movement😅😅
@@DutchRCFamily it definitely is not a little movement, lol. They also should not be selling Xbox Wheels at the price they are selling them for if all the buttons can not even be mapped. That's like selling a car with only 3 wheels that can swapped to aftermarket rims.
Thanks for the video! I had the same clicking/clunking issue on my DD Pro wheel with the plastic Quick Release after a month or so of average use. That was about a year ago. I ran across another video where the guy suggested using a bit of grease on the inside of the QR, as well as not over-tightening the QR when remounting. Both of those solved the issue in my case as well. So it's an alternative for people if the electrical tape solution isn't working. I've ordered up the alloy QR this week to hopefully prevent any long-term issues from having to use these workarounds.
Graag gedaan, Fanatec noemt het na reactie terug dat het normaal is om "slight" movement te hebben en dat ze druk bezig zijn met een nieuwe quickrelease. Heb ook terug gemaild dat dit meer dan slight is en op deze manier er spullen stuk kunnen gaan. Voor een groot merk vind ik dit wel erg slecht.
@@DutchRCFamily mag natuurlijk zeer zeker niet gebeuren. Erg teleurstellend. Het is van de gekke om nog is €100 bovenop wat je al uit uitgegeven hebt te spenderen.. Desondanks ga ik het toch maar doen wanneer de QR2 uitkomt, denk ik
Eventually the plastic will break from wear, my dd pro wheel done this bad…and while yes tape stopped it it won’t last and if the plastic wears enough and breaks then you snap the pins on the wheel and it’s useless…so while saving 98 euros now you will eventually wish ya had spent the 99 for metal quick release which is much better than the qrlite and it transfers the feedback and feels much much better overall
You are welcome. I tried to get Fanatec reading the comments here, i also send a few mail regarding the issue. Only the default answer "yeh it can move a little bit" was send back. Havent seen an official message from them. Shame for such a big company.
@@jameselias9665 yes! I put two pieces of tape, one on top of the other so that there is no empty room in there and it is still perfectly fine after this time. I have been playing regularly as well.
@@faywaze7303 Yes! Mine is working fine since my last comment. A friend of mine made the same fix but his wheel started making the noisy sound some months after the fix, most probably because the tape he used was not so thick as mine.
This quick release lite was meant to be an improvement on the clamping mechanism Fanatec used to use on their budget wheels such as my Xbox Elite wheel (now superseded by their WRC wheel but with this same plastic quick release as standard and the proper Clubsport QR1 wheelside as an optional extra). That previous mechanism (the "oil filter wrench" as I call it) used the same concept as those strap-around oil filter wrenches plus a single tightening screw. Yet after four years my Xbox wheel with it's clamp is still holding fast with zero issues. I do need a new wheel though as the alcantara has completely worn through so the obvious answer is to get the proper clubsport quick release - not the plastic one.
hey, afgelopen week mijn set gekregen. met de upgrade QR. deze doet het ook, belachelijk eigenlijk voor een merk dat zo groot is. tape lost het idd op maar het zou niet nodig moeten zijn.
Thanks man ...als t goed is kan je nederlands lezen ...zat al dag te .... met klunkie ...had al ander filmpie gekeken...maar dat was met die klem ...niet het probleem dus ...dit is geniaal ..je gaat er toch opletten tijdens racen .nogmaals bedankt ...abbonee erbij 😁🤟
Correct. En inderdaad, ik/wij werden continu afgeleid door het verschuiven van het stuur. Fijn te lezen dat dit voor jou helpt👌 veel plezier met racen. Wij zijn al tijdje druk bezig met verbouwen, zodra dat klaar is kunnen wij ook weer. Thx voor t abonneren namens mijzelf en de kids👌👌💪💪
same issue here with one of 3 QRL. currently mailing with fanatec. btw: the "loose" one got shipped along with the McLaren GT3 And thank you very much for the video! Fanatec asked me to do one, but I lack the equipment.
You are welcome, thanks for the reply. I also made a seperate one to show them, i just get a reply back that it is normal to have some movement. This isnt just some movement, this can totally break the whole thing.
I have the exact same problem! Major play between the wheel and shaft. I put a piece of cloth between the wheel and shaft, now its finally sturdy with zero play whatsoever. I hope it stays like this 😮
Ik dacht eerst dat ik het me verbeeldde en dat het bij de force feedback hoorde, maar het leek net ff teveel op de "clunk" van de Logitech G923 die ik precies hierom had teruggestuurd. Toch maar even gegoogled en toen zag ik deze fix. Wel een beetje suf dat dit dus al een jaar bekend is maar nog steeds niet is opgelost, ik heb mijn DD Pro 8nm net een maand. Zo maar even aftapen zodat ik nog ff verder kan en dan meteen de QR2 bestellen, ook al vind ik het wat suf dat de klant moet betalen voor een ontwerpfout... Anyway, bedankt voor de tip!
Het is waardeloos, ik heb meerdere mails gestuurd. Ook de link naar dit filmpje en benoemd dat er vele zijn met dit probleem. Ik heb ook nergens een excuus vanuit Fanatec gezien. En de fix die er nu is vind ik een redelijk prijzige. Snap ook wel dat ze de base set goedkoper hebben gemaakt. Wel top dat je wat aan deze tip had, veel plezier met je set👌👌
@@DutchRCFamily ja ik heb de boel afgetaped en voor nu is het over. Na het zien van jouw fix kwam ik ineens veel meer mensen tegen met deze issues, zelfs met compleet afgebroken behuizingen van de QR Lite. Zelfs met de QR1 (die nu 50 euro is) lijkt het niet echt opgelost. Hopelijk komt over ongeveer een week de QR2 binnen en is het probleem sowieso opgelost. Verder een prachtig setje. ;-)
Een tip: de QR1 (niet de lite) wordt nu door veel mensen vervangen door de nieuwe QR2. Even op marktplaats kijken en je koopt ze nieuw voor een paar tientjes.
You think this would work on my CSW v2.0? I just got a p1 v2 wheel today, it just feels odd it’s definitely more powerful than my Logitech G920 but there’s the clunk, and then it also when the force feedback is enabled it’s insanely hard to turn the wheel like there’s just extra resistance that I don’t think should be there I could be wrong and just need to get use to, definitely going to try the tape thing tomorrow but both items came from EBay the rim seems relatively new still but the wheel base obviously isn’t sold anymore, if the tape mod doesn’t fix the clunk and it’s sometning on the inside of the wheel base it doesn’t feel or sound like it, feels like the source is dead center of the wheel like where the groove is the plastic slips every time you cross over the middle. So I think your solution should help and if not might I be shit out of luck? Honestly could just sell it for $100-$150 sell my G920 roughly same price for the pedals wheel and shifter and get a new DD but was hoping to be able to enjoy this for now I’m hoping maybe I just got weak baby arms or sometning 😅 but I use to have my FFB super high have it maxed out I could smell the belts burning on the inside (I’d never push something like that again once I realized what was goin on) but before I’d let go of the wheel on a straight and it shakes back and forth but I can still turn it fine, now it barely shakes on straights but gains 15lbs in weight as I turn. (Sorry for the book super tired and been hyper focused on this for about 11 hours straight.)
No idea if it works for that wheel, i guess you can always try. The wheels are a massive step up from logitech wheels, takes time to adjust but its good fun. And i guess you work out while gaming😅👌 win win
Goeie tip. Ik ben net een nieuwe stuur aan het testen en dit viel me dus ook op. Tape vind ik een beetje een rare oplossing. Heb je meerdere sturen en wissel je wel eens? En nu een aantal maanden later, werkt het nog steeds goed?
Ik ben met Fanatec bezig, bestook ze met mails. Ze blijven benoemen dat de QR2 beter blijft zijn. Ik heb echter met meerdere sturen en ook de duurdere release problemen. Mijn pinnetjes zijn ook wat gebogen en blijf er nu van af tot ze met een passende oplossing komen. Het is wel een waardeloze service voor een prijzig product.
No the Clubsport QR does NOT fix this problem. I just found out. Their tolerances between them are garbage. I'm about to electrical tape mine right now after 1 race
Dat een Thrusmaster plastic gebruikt was te begrijpen maar Fanatec die een prijs categorie duurder is zou naar mijn mening niet met dit soort troep moeten aankomen. Ik vind dit systeem sowieso niet beter of gemakkelijker vergeleken met de originele quick release.
Thx voor de video had dit probleem ook, hoe krijg je die snelheid op je stuur display te zien? Ik speel acc en iracing maar zie geen kilometers op de display
@@DutchRCFamily Oh thanks, maybe there been a miss understanding. I thought about the base where you put your racing wheel. The metal base which supports the wheel and the motor. Thank you!
Hoi hoi. Heb net de dd pro voor ps5 gekocht indd het zelfde issue. Ga dit morgen proberen. Maar ik zou ook graag op mijn xbox serie X Forza 7 willen spelen. Welk stuur past daar op. En met juiste qr? Kan je mij ermee helpen. Gr mark
Voor zover ik weet zou je een geheel andere base moeten kopen, mits daar interesse in is zou ik mij verdiepen in Moza. Wij hebben de Moza R9 en zijn daar zeer tevreden mee. Succes.
Ik heb sinds een paar dagen de GT DD PRO base en elke keer als ik hem aanzet en hij zichzelf kalibreert staat het stuur iets schuin naar rechts toe. Ik gebruik een Formula V2.5 wheel. Heb je enig idee hoe ik dat kan oplossen? Fanatec reageert nergens op
Dat heb ik ook met dit stuur, zal door het gewicht komen. In de settings staat het stuur dan ook op min 2. Maar hij staat op 0 als ik het stuur zelf recht zet dus wat kalibreren betreft staat het goed, alleen het oogt niet goed.
Zelfde verhaal hier. Verder geen issue. Weet ook niet of het de bedoeling is dat ie weer centraal staat, maar zolang het verder geen issue is tijdens racen, is het ok
@@giogamer4825, je kan in de settings je stuur calibireren. Recht zetten en dan op de knop drukken. Of stuur rechtzetten en beide joysticks tegelijk indrukken moet ook werken.
Or you could just replace the crappy supplied shaft clamp with a two piece clamp that grips the shaft evenly. (Like the ones used on the DD1 & 2) Problem solved permanently for around £20 plus you won't have wheel disconnect issues that can also arise from keeping the supplied clamp in place.
Agreed on that part, i tried a few times to get in touch with them. Not for a refund but to acknowledge the problem. They still have to reply. Even a discount on the new QR would have been nice.
you guys that worry makes me giggle you show me any steering wheel done by any manufacturer, that doesn't make noises, cmmon guys were getting OCD on wear and break in noises. you have to understand the physics of friction, mine does the same i don't care as it works regardless, the g29 makes worse noises. my csl DD makes similar noises but works fantastic stop being OCD about this shit, make way for perfection elitist's. its getting old now the csl does this the csl does that, so do thrustmaster products so do logitech products and i have them all and they creak wine and shudder its gonna do its being turned consistently maybe go the old way bit of lube on stuff that's constantly going through friction. guys they been oiling working part's since the titanic. this, my csl is failing i need to RMA no because the next will do just that.
It's not the clicking noise that bothers me. The fact that the wheel slides before it makes that sound does. Due to the sliding and clicking it tends to bend, or break, the connectors. This happend to me and many others. It happend twice on my base, before and after it was sent back under waranty. It is the main reason that Fanatec finally came up with the new quickrelease. Thanks for your view on the issue tho, i just cant agree with the things you mentioned.
one thing i have noticed you have allot of wobble on your stand the wheel base is on, that could be contributing to the fact your turning and the movement of your stand might be also causing some lack of being grounded solid and flat. i may be wrong but just thought i would point it out the wobbling might be wearing at the wheel shaft.@@DutchRCFamily
These wheels are rubbish. If you have owned one for a few months of use look closely behind the wheel where the shifter pivot point is for cracking. Mine has been replaced by Fanatec under warranty due to a design fault which they have admitted to in writing and the replacement has cracked the same way. If you are thinking of Fanatec DONT. Look elsewhere. It’s not just poor quality but very bad after sales service and warranty.
Eventually the plastic will break from wear, my dd pro wheel done this bad…and while yes tape stopped it it won’t last and if the plastic wears enough and breaks then you snap the pins on the wheel and it’s useless…so while saving 98 euros now you will eventually wish ya had spent the 99 for metal quick release which is much better than the qrlite and it transfers the feedback and feels much much better overall
Goeie tip. Ik ben net een nieuwe stuur aan het testen en dit viel me dus ook op. Tape vind ik een beetje een rare oplossing. Heb je meerdere sturen en wissel je wel eens? En nu een aantal maanden later, werkt het nog steeds goed?
Ik heb nooit melding gekregen van deze reactie, mijn excuus. Ik ben verre van tevreden over de kwaliteit en ben nog steeds bezig om iets van een refund te krijgen o.i.d.
Warning!
Within 4 months of light use my FANATEC McLaren wheel cracked at the shifter pivot point and where it mounted to the QR. I was accused of over tightening although I used a torque wrench set at 3nm.
FANATEC then replaced the wheel chassis admitting in writing it was a weakness in the wheel.
Very soon after my CSL load cell pedal failed. I sent a video before sending the pedal set back as requested.
I was required to make a follow up email after not hearing back.
FANATEC said they can not fault the pedals asking if I want then sent back which I found a strange thing to ask?
Eventually they were returned however within minutes I experienced the same issue which was consistent with magnetic interference from the CSL DD wheel base before the load cell pedal would completely shut down.
I was beyond my limits at this point and driven to warn as many potential customers as I could while demanding a replacement.
Following the usual delayed response, FANATEC then offered a replacement only if a show proof that they faulty load cell was again on its way back to them.
FANATEC’s poor response time drove me to desperation.
Keep in mind I have owned this new product for around 6 months when 2 major failures occurred.
An electric technician overheard my experience and offered assistance.
I was able to demonstrate the issue and within minutes the technician diagnosed a defective voltage regulator attached to the load cell circuit board.
The voltage regulator is designed to reduce 5 volts coming from the wheel base or USB down to the required 3.3volts. There was no signal out of the regulator which he replaced.
No thanks to FANATEC I am now enjoying my sim racing again while I hold my breath for the next FANATEC failure.
Please take my advise and look at the FANATEC’s own forum in regards to all the issues they have and their terrible customer service.
I feel your pain and i will make a new video about it soon.
I also had multiple issues after this one. Pedal problems and more.
I was pretty pissed off, i got some replacement stuff but that also broke. They tried to blame it all on my usage....
After a few emails they just stopped responding. Not a nice way to treat customers who spend quite a bit of money.
I just hope us both can warn plenty of people for the crap they are selling. And its not just coincidental for us, i see many complaints.
Sorry for the late response, i missed your comment.
I can attest to anyone reading this, stay away from fanatic stuff, my very first purchase from them was DOA
@@DutchRCFamily Nou gaat lekker dan, laat ik net een CSL DD hebben besteld ter vervanging van mijn oude G25 die ik sinds 2006 in bezit heb...
@@SuperWhiteBarryHopelijk heb jij geen problemen met de DD.
@@DutchRCFamily Ik heb m nu een maand in gebruik zonder problemen. Ik heb wel uit voorzorg een andere klem (google: Fanatec CSL DD Pro Shaft Clamp) gekocht op ebay, vergelijkbaar met wat op de duurdere modellen zit en hij hangt er kaarsrecht in, geen "wobble"... Verder gebruik ik een stuk isolatietape om te voorkomen dat het stuur bonkt. Werkt perfect en ik gebruik 'm meerdere uren per dag en dat dagelijks!
Late to the party here, but I have just purchased the CSL DD one year after this video and the problem still exists! I have tried this tape trick which, most of the time works but I have also found another solution. I got a pair of medical gloves and cut off one of the fingers and cut the end off to make a tube. I have put this over the shaft and being rubber it seems to have done the trick. May be worth giving it a go if everything else fails.
I wonder whether the tape used by plumbers to seal water connection threads might also work.
Just got my DD kit and started driving. The clicking was there immediately as I was running the 8nm power pack. After a quick search, I found your video, and it worked a treat. Thank you
Glad my video was helpfull for you, enjoy driving your wheel👌👌
oh boy for 2 years Ive endured this, it was getting much worse and I finally googled for a solution and this came up! thanks!!!
Not even 3 days of use maybe 6 hours and I found this clicking, thank you for this. def gonna be buying the upgrade but it’s just wild to me that this is STILL a issue
Agreed, they never even gave an excuse for this issue. Only that its normal to slightly move, yet this is not slightly, wich i mentioned to them quite some times. Not really customer friendly imo.
My 1 week old DD pro developed the same issue this week. Felt like cogs slipping which made my £1000 wheel feel like a £200 Logitech!
2 pieces of tape has made it like new! Thanks for the tip!
Where did you put the tape?
@@zenflight2450 It was demonstrated in the video where to put the tape 1:14
Even later to the party. Still same issue (no wonder they are going bankrupt).
This trick works wonderfully well! Thank you. It feels like playing with a brand new wheel! (It is actually new but didn’t feel like that…
Are they going bankrupt? Well at least that explains why my email to them asking if they have the Clubsport 2.5 wheelbase limiter collar as a spare part was never answered. Never mind though, I bought a CAD file for $10 and am getting one SLA printed by a specialist 3D printing firm. Thanks Fanatec!!
@@WouterGeels Glad my solution helped you out👌👌
@@jonathanparle8429 I mailed them quite allot about this issue, also to try and use my warenty. I once had a short mail back that movement could be possible with the QR but that it is hardly noticeable. I replied with this youtube link and directed them to the comments, never got a reply back.
Thanks for the video. I been having the exact same issue. Same base, wheel and quick release. It's crazy how much we all pay for this product and the type of issues that we are all having. What also amazes me is that they said to use tape to solve the issue. What they SHOULD do is send the proper quick release to those that are having the issue. Now I kind of wish I went with Moza.
I agree, service is poor.
I emailed them a couple of times but always get the same reply "a little movement always happens and we are working on a new version"
This just isnt a little movement😅😅
@@DutchRCFamily it definitely is not a little movement, lol. They also should not be selling Xbox Wheels at the price they are selling them for if all the buttons can not even be mapped. That's like selling a car with only 3 wheels that can swapped to aftermarket rims.
@@sickid6424 totally agree, i just hope #Fanatec does something with it.
Yes they should send proper solution for FREE!!!
Thanks for the video! I had the same clicking/clunking issue on my DD Pro wheel with the plastic Quick Release after a month or so of average use. That was about a year ago. I ran across another video where the guy suggested using a bit of grease on the inside of the QR, as well as not over-tightening the QR when remounting.
Both of those solved the issue in my case as well. So it's an alternative for people if the electrical tape solution isn't working. I've ordered up the alloy QR this week to hopefully prevent any long-term issues from having to use these workarounds.
You are a flippin hero mate. Much respect!
Cheers, glad i could help👌👌
I bought the QR1 not for quick release but for better Torque and I use the Bottom screw so it doesn’t become loose over time
After those 11 months, how has it worked for you without the plastic quick release?
I can confirm that this works like a charm! Thanks!
Thanks for your feedback, glad it worked for you👌👌
Held! Ik heb jouw setup ook sinds 3 dagen. Na een dag merkte ik exact 't zelfde wat jij ervaart. Dit is (voor nu) inderdaad de oplossing. Bedankt!
Graag gedaan, Fanatec noemt het na reactie terug dat het normaal is om "slight" movement te hebben en dat ze druk bezig zijn met een nieuwe quickrelease.
Heb ook terug gemaild dat dit meer dan slight is en op deze manier er spullen stuk kunnen gaan. Voor een groot merk vind ik dit wel erg slecht.
@@DutchRCFamily mag natuurlijk zeer zeker niet gebeuren. Erg teleurstellend. Het is van de gekke om nog is €100 bovenop wat je al uit uitgegeven hebt te spenderen.. Desondanks ga ik het toch maar doen wanneer de QR2 uitkomt, denk ik
@@timotrumpi9481 Ik wacht daar ook zeker op, en die mogen ze van mij gratis versturen.
Maar ondanks dat ben ik verder zeer tevreden met de spullen💪💪
@@DutchRCFamily Ik heb dit product ook. zelfde probleem en het verpest het racen wel echt enorm. bedankt voor de oplossing :D!
Eventually the plastic will break from wear, my dd pro wheel done this bad…and while yes tape stopped it it won’t last and if the plastic wears enough and breaks then you snap the pins on the wheel and it’s useless…so while saving 98 euros now you will eventually wish ya had spent the 99 for metal quick release which is much better than the qrlite and it transfers the feedback and feels much much better overall
Man you saved me . I can’t thank you enough
Thank you so much
You are welcome.
I tried to get Fanatec reading the comments here, i also send a few mail regarding the issue. Only the default answer "yeh it can move a little bit" was send back.
Havent seen an official message from them. Shame for such a big company.
Thank you! This hack fixed my clicking noise issue as well.
is the tape still working for you after 7 months?
@@jameselias9665 yes! I put two pieces of tape, one on top of the other so that there is no empty room in there and it is still perfectly fine after this time. I have been playing regularly as well.
still working ? 😂
@@faywaze7303 Yes! Mine is working fine since my last comment.
A friend of mine made the same fix but his wheel started making the noisy sound some months after the fix, most probably because the tape he used was not so thick as mine.
ok thank you ! @@kingarthurpt
I fixed my clicking, thank you very much, you just save my mental healt ❤
This quick release lite was meant to be an improvement on the clamping mechanism Fanatec used to use on their budget wheels such as my Xbox Elite wheel (now superseded by their WRC wheel but with this same plastic quick release as standard and the proper Clubsport QR1 wheelside as an optional extra). That previous mechanism (the "oil filter wrench" as I call it) used the same concept as those strap-around oil filter wrenches plus a single tightening screw. Yet after four years my Xbox wheel with it's clamp is still holding fast with zero issues. I do need a new wheel though as the alcantara has completely worn through so the obvious answer is to get the proper clubsport quick release - not the plastic one.
@@jonathanparle8429 I would like to test the new quick release 2 aswell. See how that goes.
Works like magic, thank you!
@@andriju226 Glad it worked for you, ty for your comment👌👌
my quick release fanatec V2 clicks on high corners too. i will try this out
Good luck, keep in mind that it is just temporary and things wont brake.
Thanks I was having the same clicking issue with the QR1 with security pin installed now this is fixed
Good to hear, have fun racing💪💪
Perfect…..
I also wrapped around the shaft for a tight fit
hey, afgelopen week mijn set gekregen. met de upgrade QR. deze doet het ook, belachelijk eigenlijk voor een merk dat zo groot is. tape lost het idd op maar het zou niet nodig moeten zijn.
Dat is dan ook mooi waardeloos, hopelijk krijg ik snel bericht terug van Fanatec.
This is amazing, so simple!
Thank you.
Thanks man ...als t goed is kan je nederlands lezen ...zat al dag te .... met klunkie ...had al ander filmpie gekeken...maar dat was met die klem ...niet het probleem dus ...dit is geniaal ..je gaat er toch opletten tijdens racen .nogmaals bedankt ...abbonee erbij 😁🤟
Correct. En inderdaad, ik/wij werden continu afgeleid door het verschuiven van het stuur. Fijn te lezen dat dit voor jou helpt👌 veel plezier met racen. Wij zijn al tijdje druk bezig met verbouwen, zodra dat klaar is kunnen wij ook weer.
Thx voor t abonneren namens mijzelf en de kids👌👌💪💪
Solved the issue for me, thanks man!
same issue here with one of 3 QRL. currently mailing with fanatec.
btw: the "loose" one got shipped along with the McLaren GT3
And thank you very much for the video! Fanatec asked me to do one, but I lack the equipment.
You are welcome, thanks for the reply.
I also made a seperate one to show them, i just get a reply back that it is normal to have some movement. This isnt just some movement, this can totally break the whole thing.
I have the exact same problem! Major play between the wheel and shaft. I put a piece of cloth between the wheel and shaft, now its finally sturdy with zero play whatsoever. I hope it stays like this 😮
Hope so aswell💪👌
Solved for me also ....thank you .. was driving nuts
Dont drive nuts, drive cars👌👌 glad it helped.
Ik dacht eerst dat ik het me verbeeldde en dat het bij de force feedback hoorde, maar het leek net ff teveel op de "clunk" van de Logitech G923 die ik precies hierom had teruggestuurd.
Toch maar even gegoogled en toen zag ik deze fix. Wel een beetje suf dat dit dus al een jaar bekend is maar nog steeds niet is opgelost, ik heb mijn DD Pro 8nm net een maand.
Zo maar even aftapen zodat ik nog ff verder kan en dan meteen de QR2 bestellen, ook al vind ik het wat suf dat de klant moet betalen voor een ontwerpfout...
Anyway, bedankt voor de tip!
Het is waardeloos, ik heb meerdere mails gestuurd. Ook de link naar dit filmpje en benoemd dat er vele zijn met dit probleem. Ik heb ook nergens een excuus vanuit Fanatec gezien.
En de fix die er nu is vind ik een redelijk prijzige. Snap ook wel dat ze de base set goedkoper hebben gemaakt.
Wel top dat je wat aan deze tip had, veel plezier met je set👌👌
@@DutchRCFamily ja ik heb de boel afgetaped en voor nu is het over. Na het zien van jouw fix kwam ik ineens veel meer mensen tegen met deze issues, zelfs met compleet afgebroken behuizingen van de QR Lite. Zelfs met de QR1 (die nu 50 euro is) lijkt het niet echt opgelost. Hopelijk komt over ongeveer een week de QR2 binnen en is het probleem sowieso opgelost.
Verder een prachtig setje. ;-)
Een tip: de QR1 (niet de lite) wordt nu door veel mensen vervangen door de nieuwe QR2. Even op marktplaats kijken en je koopt ze nieuw voor een paar tientjes.
What a fix! Thank you!
@@easy_throttle_back Good to hear it worked for you aswell, thx for commenting👌💪
Thank you, works fine. 🎉 With tape there are more probabilities than qr will be cracked ?😅
Cracked it anyways without tape, the one with tape still holds up, just refreshing the tape once in a while.
You think this would work on my CSW v2.0? I just got a p1 v2 wheel today, it just feels odd it’s definitely more powerful than my Logitech G920 but there’s the clunk, and then it also when the force feedback is enabled it’s insanely hard to turn the wheel like there’s just extra resistance that I don’t think should be there I could be wrong and just need to get use to, definitely going to try the tape thing tomorrow but both items came from EBay the rim seems relatively new still but the wheel base obviously isn’t sold anymore, if the tape mod doesn’t fix the clunk and it’s sometning on the inside of the wheel base it doesn’t feel or sound like it, feels like the source is dead center of the wheel like where the groove is the plastic slips every time you cross over the middle. So I think your solution should help and if not might I be shit out of luck? Honestly could just sell it for $100-$150 sell my G920 roughly same price for the pedals wheel and shifter and get a new DD but was hoping to be able to enjoy this for now I’m hoping maybe I just got weak baby arms or sometning 😅 but I use to have my FFB super high have it maxed out I could smell the belts burning on the inside (I’d never push something like that again once I realized what was goin on) but before I’d let go of the wheel on a straight and it shakes back and forth but I can still turn it fine, now it barely shakes on straights but gains 15lbs in weight as I turn. (Sorry for the book super tired and been hyper focused on this for about 11 hours straight.)
No idea if it works for that wheel, i guess you can always try.
The wheels are a massive step up from logitech wheels, takes time to adjust but its good fun. And i guess you work out while gaming😅👌 win win
Goeie tip. Ik ben net een nieuwe stuur aan het testen en dit viel me dus ook op. Tape vind ik een beetje een rare oplossing. Heb je meerdere sturen en wissel je wel eens? En nu een aantal maanden later, werkt het nog steeds goed?
Ik ben met Fanatec bezig, bestook ze met mails. Ze blijven benoemen dat de QR2 beter blijft zijn.
Ik heb echter met meerdere sturen en ook de duurdere release problemen.
Mijn pinnetjes zijn ook wat gebogen en blijf er nu van af tot ze met een passende oplossing komen.
Het is wel een waardeloze service voor een prijzig product.
Thank you so much...this worked for me!!!
thank you so much, solved my issue
You are welcome👌👌
What mount are you using for the wheelbase and pedals?
No the Clubsport QR does NOT fix this problem. I just found out. Their tolerances between them are garbage. I'm about to electrical tape mine right now after 1 race
Damn that sucks, and the response from them is terrible aswell.
Good luck with the tape.
Even with the securing screw?? That is terrible!
thanks a lot mate
I went with the metal QR1. Much more peace of mind, then stressing out the plastic QRL.
I agree, i placed an order for one. Untill then i am not using my wheel.
I have the problem from the video since I got the metal one...
Silly question but I can't reallg see it. Do you pull a rig upto your desk or is the motor screwed to the desk?
Its not a silly question, dont worry. Its on a heavy rig but i can move it with some force. I really love to use it.
I jusg bought a P1X Dutch, hopefully it wont move around too much.
@@-_-1529 I hope so aswell, have fun!!
Dat een Thrusmaster plastic gebruikt was te begrijpen maar Fanatec die een prijs categorie duurder is zou naar mijn mening niet met dit soort troep moeten aankomen. Ik vind dit systeem sowieso niet beter of gemakkelijker vergeleken met de originele quick release.
Thx voor de video had dit probleem ook, hoe krijg je die snelheid op je stuur display te zien? Ik speel acc en iracing maar zie geen kilometers op de display
Ik heb eigenlijk geen idee? Ikzelf gebruik een klein lcs scherm als dashboard boven mijn stuur.
Wow this is a way better idea than toilet paper.
Could you do this with metal quick release to?
@@eloy559 I reckon you can to reduce friction.
Cool, thank you for sharing the fix. But you don't get anything for free my friend. Especially from Fanatec.
I found out the hard way indeed😅
Can I use every kind of tape??
Electrical tape is (in my opnion) the best cause its pretty flexible.
Hi! What’s the name of that sort of base where you put your steering wheel? Is it good?
Fanatec DD Pro, i am not happy with it as we speak. I am currently not using it untill my problem is solved with Fanatec.
@@DutchRCFamily Oh thanks, maybe there been a miss understanding. I thought about the base where you put your racing wheel. The metal base which supports the wheel and the motor. Thank you!
@@Tomsteph10 aah thats what you mean, it is the Next Level Racing Wheel Stand DD
Really solid and it can be moved elsewhere (with some force tho)
@@DutchRCFamily Thank you so much, appreciate that!🫶
amazing! it worked well!
Good to hear, enjoy!!
Hoi hoi. Heb net de dd pro voor ps5 gekocht indd het zelfde issue. Ga dit morgen proberen. Maar ik zou ook graag op mijn xbox serie X Forza 7 willen spelen. Welk stuur past daar op. En met juiste qr?
Kan je mij ermee helpen.
Gr mark
Voor zover ik weet zou je een geheel andere base moeten kopen, mits daar interesse in is zou ik mij verdiepen in Moza.
Wij hebben de Moza R9 en zijn daar zeer tevreden mee.
Succes.
I think it's fair to say that my one year old DD pro have no issues at all.
Nice setup!
Thanks!!
Ik heb sinds een paar dagen de GT DD PRO base en elke keer als ik hem aanzet en hij zichzelf kalibreert staat het stuur iets schuin naar rechts toe. Ik gebruik een Formula V2.5 wheel. Heb je enig idee hoe ik dat kan oplossen? Fanatec reageert nergens op
Dat heb ik ook met dit stuur, zal door het gewicht komen.
In de settings staat het stuur dan ook op min 2.
Maar hij staat op 0 als ik het stuur zelf recht zet dus wat kalibreren betreft staat het goed, alleen het oogt niet goed.
Zelfde verhaal hier. Verder geen issue. Weet ook niet of het de bedoeling is dat ie weer centraal staat, maar zolang het verder geen issue is tijdens racen, is het ok
Mocht je mijn set willen zien, ik ben eerste: th-cam.com/video/J-hv2agFVp4/w-d-xo.html
@@giogamer4825, je kan in de settings je stuur calibireren. Recht zetten en dan op de knop drukken.
Of stuur rechtzetten en beide joysticks tegelijk indrukken moet ook werken.
@@ronnysocquet3297 Thanks. Ik ga het proberen. Zoals aangegeven, het is verder geen issue maar oogt niet recht zeg maar
Hey vraagje. Weet je toevallig welke auto dit is in ACC?
Late reactie, tijd niet op mijn account kunnen komen.
DIt was volgens mij de Lambo maar weet het niet zeker meer.
Or you could just replace the crappy supplied shaft clamp with a two piece clamp that grips the shaft evenly. (Like the ones used on the DD1 & 2) Problem solved permanently for around £20 plus you won't have wheel disconnect issues that can also arise from keeping the supplied clamp in place.
Didnt know that solution, thx for sharing👌👌
Oh cool! Where can I find and buy that? Is there a link or a name?
can you send a link ?
amigooo, i love U ! 😄🤣
@@XooWroc Whoop!! Cheers❤️🥳
@@DutchRCFamily U think QR1 will help? also I see some flexing at this plastic qr ;/
@@XooWroc I still had some movement with that 1. I havent tried the QR2 yet.
Fanatec needs to be recalled and upgraded free new QR2 parts.
Agreed on that part, i tried a few times to get in touch with them. Not for a refund but to acknowledge the problem. They still have to reply.
Even a discount on the new QR would have been nice.
now this problem is solved with qr2
Set your FOV right and move the monitors closer lol this is why you don’t do triples on a desk with a rig 😂😂😂
I know, it was a temporary solution. Game room including proper setup is ready now.
just get the QR1 save alot grief
100€ qr1 clicks even more :D
It rattles like hell standard. But the connection itself is tight
you guys that worry makes me giggle you show me any steering wheel done by any manufacturer, that doesn't make noises, cmmon guys were getting OCD on wear and break in noises.
you have to understand the physics of friction, mine does the same i don't care as it works regardless, the g29 makes worse noises.
my csl DD makes similar noises but works fantastic stop being OCD about this shit, make way for perfection elitist's.
its getting old now the csl does this the csl does that, so do thrustmaster products so do logitech products and i have them all and they creak wine and shudder its gonna do its being turned consistently maybe go the old way bit of lube on stuff that's constantly going through friction.
guys they been oiling working part's since the titanic.
this, my csl is failing i need to RMA no because the next will do just that.
It's not the clicking noise that bothers me. The fact that the wheel slides before it makes that sound does. Due to the sliding and clicking it tends to bend, or break, the connectors. This happend to me and many others.
It happend twice on my base, before and after it was sent back under waranty.
It is the main reason that Fanatec finally came up with the new quickrelease.
Thanks for your view on the issue tho, i just cant agree with the things you mentioned.
one thing i have noticed you have allot of wobble on your stand the wheel base is on, that could be contributing to the fact your turning and the movement of your stand might be also causing some lack of being grounded solid and flat.
i may be wrong but just thought i would point it out the wobbling might be wearing at the wheel shaft.@@DutchRCFamily
These wheels are rubbish. If you have owned one for a few months of use look closely behind the wheel where the shifter pivot point is for cracking. Mine has been replaced by Fanatec under warranty due to a design fault which they have admitted to in writing and the replacement has cracked the same way. If you are thinking of Fanatec DONT. Look elsewhere. It’s not just poor quality but very bad after sales service and warranty.
thanks , thanks you so much !!
Eventually the plastic will break from wear, my dd pro wheel done this bad…and while yes tape stopped it it won’t last and if the plastic wears enough and breaks then you snap the pins on the wheel and it’s useless…so while saving 98 euros now you will eventually wish ya had spent the 99 for metal quick release which is much better than the qrlite and it transfers the feedback and feels much much better overall
Thx for the response, i am in contact with Fanatec again. I will eventually go for the clubsport one.
It‘s a shame that they don‘t offer a special prize for the QR1 when you place the order for the wheel. The plastic version is crap 😐.
@@vb_matic4166 I kinda hope they come with that solution, lets see what happens
@@vb_matic4166 Im pretty sure its to keep the price at 199...i know when i ordered my formula v2.5x the qr1 was included but thats also 375
@@nike23osu Guess it must be it, but they should atleast acknowledge the issue.
Goeie tip. Ik ben net een nieuwe stuur aan het testen en dit viel me dus ook op. Tape vind ik een beetje een rare oplossing. Heb je meerdere sturen en wissel je wel eens? En nu een aantal maanden later, werkt het nog steeds goed?
Ik heb nooit melding gekregen van deze reactie, mijn excuus. Ik ben verre van tevreden over de kwaliteit en ben nog steeds bezig om iets van een refund te krijgen o.i.d.