again Kelvin another great & helpful maintenance video for those just starting out as well as the less experienced mechanics, bb's can turn into a big headache without the correct tools.
Just want to share this in case it can help. I installed an 11-speed 105 R7000 group on my bike and struggled since a couple of months with the transmission being very noisy after cycling 50Km. It drove me nuts... And after reading forums and trying out various options, I followed the advice to change the lubricant. And yess! From wax (Squirt wax and Morgan Blue wax) I switched to Rock n Roll gold and no noise anymore!! Never again wax for me ;)
In this case, the damage is already done, so unless the bike is going to be used for competition, do the preload adjustment and leave it at that. In a few months or a few hundred miles, it might need doing again. A bike can be ridden many hundreds of enjoyable and/or utilitarian miles with worn balls, cups, and races in the BB.
@@threetoast By newer, do you mean more modern? You could do that, but again, unless you're going racing on this bike, just slowing the thing eating itself is good enough. That's if it's my bike, because I know what the issue is and how to "counter" it. If I'm fixing it for someone else, I'm at least going to clean, polish, and regrease the races and replace the actual balls to slow the self-eating process. That's a roughly 60-minute, $1.25 job, provided I can get the fixed cup out. Even If I can't, I can still clean and regrease it. And in that case, the option to install a newer unit is removed; I'm stuck with the aforementioned process.
Replace the bottom bracket entire assembly !!! Goes without saying . I treat bicycles better than I treat myself as it were . Especially when it is someone else's .
@@robertmcfadyen9156 But sometimes that fixed cup on an older bike just isn't coming out without risking damage to the shell. You can replace the balls, the spindle (if you find one), and the adjustable cup (again, if you can find one), but that's all you can do.
I have a rumble when using the smallest sprocket on my 27spd MTB, no matter what wheel at the front it's not BB, it's not freehub so I don't know what it is and why it's only on the smallest sprocket it's also not the rear hub, that one I serviced as well with clean, new bearings and new grease
Calvin , chordal resonance , mentioned in my high school physics class in 1988 is a limiting factor in tight - wrap scenarios for the drive chain . This phenomenon is common on today's best bicycles with chain transmissions .
Is there a follow up video coming? I'd like to see what exactly the issue is with this bike and watch you fix it. Videos like these are the best ones, where you fix actual problems in bikes and walk us through step by step. Much more informative than just a "how to change the bottom bracket or drivetrain video" . Anyway thanks for the help. These videos and your attitude have made me a parks tool customer for life.
#Park Tool Great video! I've been waiting for a video with this special contant for years. I know already how it works but I guess all biginners are trying to tighten the crank arm bolt to get rid off that play. I would appreciate a video of how to get rid off that play on BBs where you have to use the BBT-22, because I think that's a very common BB wich many riders have and similar problems too.
My GRX 2x on my gravel bike is new and keeps stripping while I ride, spins freely with no chain pull. It works after I pick up the rear wheel and drop to the pavement. Why is this? Matt in Burnsville Minnesota. Enjoy ALL your posts!
A master mechanic who instructs without condescending. Well done! Question: How did the bracket become loose? It had a lock ring. Was the initial instal poorly done?
Most cup & cone BB's have little or no weather/moisture protection, and are constantly getting sprayed by the front wheel in damp conditons, so once the grease is washed out, it's all downhill from there. Even if the cup hasn't come loose, the play is usually from the actual wear on the cups and cones.
@@type17 Got it! So cassettes are a better option? I seem to go through bottom brackets like water. I ride ten miles each day and go through one a year at least. Any insight??
@@PeterPeadar If you're using cup & cone BBs, move to cassettes - c&c is technology from over a century ago, and these days only comes on kids bikes and really low budget adult bikes. If you're using cassettes, and only getting a year, then you're probably riding in the wet a lot - you could try fancier ones with better seals, but if that doesn't help, buy the correct removal tools, a tub of grease (for the threads) and a few mid-range ones (confirm your bike's required spindle length and thread-type before ordering), and do it yourself as required - Park Tool almost certainly have a great vid on changing them.
@@type17 Thanks for the info! I'm in the Arizona desert but I think I was relying on really inexpensive cassettes. I'll do some research and upgrade. Your comments are super appreciated.
@@PeterPeadar Fine dust can get past cheap seals too, and will dry up grease just as quick as water will wash it out - better seals (better quality cassettes) are worth trying, but if that doesn't work, you could try a DIY schedule.
I almost cursed all of creation yesterday when my new 10 speed jockey wheels didn’t cure the coffee grinder noise coming off my rear setup….. It’s new chain BS…I should have kept the old one and sourced a new cluster/chain….
Back in the olden days when I worked on loose ball bottom brackets, I remember that the balls would wear out before the cups. Do they still make square taper, cartridge bearing type bottom brackets that could replace that one?
No, so cheap and guaranteed to fail at some point. Replace with sealed cartridge shimano SN55 if you want hassle free cycling. Cup and cone is such an old/cheap design found on cheap or old bikes.
I have almost 50 year old road bikes and mid-80s mt bikes with this type of BB, as long as you regularly maintain them they will last a long long time plus they are cheaper to maintain in the long run. Sealed bearings are a joke.
Lacking a replacement bb, if it has 9-ball retainers, I’d replace them with 11 loose 1/4” balls, and use a good thick grease, and it will be better. While apart, check for uneven wear on the races of the bb spindle. If bad, replace. Of course the best thing is a new cartridge bb, and toss the old thing.
That means new crankset too… just order a new cartridge square taper bb for $15-$20 for a hand me down kids bike. If you want to spend $$$ then tires and tubes would be the most cost effective upgrades
Maybe I'm wrong but I swear BBI said that the cups and raceways were stronger than bearings hence once the bearings were worn there is a good chance you can just replace the bearings and the races can be reused.
The ball bearings are the hardest part of the system. The threaded races have threads of course, and cannot be as hard. New ball bearings alone will not help.
![ปฏิเสธไม่ไหว (Crush on you) - LIPTA feat. No One Else [TEASER MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VC689EgdSIw/mqdefault.jpg)
0:13 “which means they were having a lot of fun”. Love it 😊
This is exactly what’s going on with my bike and it’s been bothering me for over a year now. Pretty cool stuff! Thanks for teaching us so much
Replace the bottom bracket assembly "IMMEDIATELY" .
again Kelvin another great & helpful maintenance video for those just starting out as well as the less experienced mechanics,
bb's can turn into a big headache without the correct tools.
So, if its trashed (pretty sure mine is btw) how do i take it all apart and repair or replace it?
Just want to share this in case it can help. I installed an 11-speed 105 R7000 group on my bike and struggled since a couple of months with the transmission being very noisy after cycling 50Km. It drove me nuts... And after reading forums and trying out various options, I followed the advice to change the lubricant. And yess!
From wax (Squirt wax and Morgan Blue wax) I switched to Rock n Roll gold and no noise anymore!! Never again wax for me ;)
I like Calvin. His vids have taught me a lot.
any bets on whether there's any grease left in that bottom bracket??
xD
None id rather remove the cranks and replace the bottom bracket
It's spinning better than most new BB's, though... despite the grinding.
This is similar to pre - loading cup and cone hub arrangements . A good ear and patience are a must .
In this case, the damage is already done, so unless the bike is going to be used for competition, do the preload adjustment and leave it at that. In a few months or a few hundred miles, it might need doing again. A bike can be ridden many hundreds of enjoyable and/or utilitarian miles with worn balls, cups, and races in the BB.
Sure, but you could also replace it with a newer BB for like $15.
@@threetoast By newer, do you mean more modern? You could do that, but again, unless you're going racing on this bike, just slowing the thing eating itself is good enough. That's if it's my bike, because I know what the issue is and how to "counter" it. If I'm fixing it for someone else, I'm at least going to clean, polish, and regrease the races and replace the actual balls to slow the self-eating process. That's a roughly 60-minute, $1.25 job, provided I can get the fixed cup out. Even If I can't, I can still clean and regrease it. And in that case, the option to install a newer unit is removed; I'm stuck with the aforementioned process.
Replace the bottom bracket entire assembly !!! Goes without saying . I treat bicycles better than I treat myself as it were . Especially when it is someone else's .
@@robertmcfadyen9156 But sometimes that fixed cup on an older bike just isn't coming out without risking damage to the shell. You can replace the balls, the spindle (if you find one), and the adjustable cup (again, if you can find one), but that's all you can do.
I have a rumble when using the smallest sprocket on my 27spd MTB, no matter what wheel at the front
it's not BB, it's not freehub so I don't know what it is and why it's only on the smallest sprocket
it's also not the rear hub, that one I serviced as well with clean, new bearings and new grease
Hello .can i use 9 speed derailleur on 7 speed freewheel
Calvin , chordal resonance , mentioned in my high school physics class in 1988 is a limiting factor in tight - wrap scenarios for the drive chain . This phenomenon is common on today's best bicycles with chain transmissions .
Is there a follow up video coming? I'd like to see what exactly the issue is with this bike and watch you fix it. Videos like these are the best ones, where you fix actual problems in bikes and walk us through step by step. Much more informative than just a "how to change the bottom bracket or drivetrain video" . Anyway thanks for the help. These videos and your attitude have made me a parks tool customer for life.
#Park Tool
Great video!
I've been waiting for a video with this special contant for years. I know already how it works but I guess all biginners are trying to tighten the crank arm bolt to get rid off that play. I would appreciate a video of how to get rid off that play on BBs where you have to use the BBT-22, because I think that's a very common BB wich many riders have and similar problems too.
I keep a good inventory of bottom brackets so that I am well positioned to "REPLACE" for peace of mind .
Merci Calvin , je ne connaissais pas cette astuce .🙂
My GRX 2x on my gravel bike is new and keeps stripping while I ride, spins freely with no chain pull. It works after I pick up the rear wheel and drop to the pavement. Why is this? Matt in Burnsville Minnesota. Enjoy ALL your posts!
can't wait for the next one.
My bikes that had the same setup, I’ve changed them to an enclosed bottom bracket unit. I use my bikes mainly for commuting.
Wise move !!!
From your description of it going through several kids, bearings are worn and will not adjust out smooth.
Gotta make sure your bearings are silky smooth so you don't notice the vibrations when you're riding down all those rocky mountain trails.
Calvin is da man 🤙🏼💪🏼
bearings shot?
Por esa razón ya quedaron obsoletas esa configuración del eje. Bendito sea el Hollowtech II
A master mechanic who instructs without condescending. Well done! Question: How did the bracket become loose? It had a lock ring. Was the initial instal poorly done?
Most cup & cone BB's have little or no weather/moisture protection, and are constantly getting sprayed by the front wheel in damp conditons, so once the grease is washed out, it's all downhill from there. Even if the cup hasn't come loose, the play is usually from the actual wear on the cups and cones.
@@type17 Got it! So cassettes are a better option? I seem to go through bottom brackets like water. I ride ten miles each day and go through one a year at least. Any insight??
@@PeterPeadar If you're using cup & cone BBs, move to cassettes - c&c is technology from over a century ago, and these days only comes on kids bikes and really low budget adult bikes. If you're using cassettes, and only getting a year, then you're probably riding in the wet a lot - you could try fancier ones with better seals, but if that doesn't help, buy the correct removal tools, a tub of grease (for the threads) and a few mid-range ones (confirm your bike's required spindle length and thread-type before ordering), and do it yourself as required - Park Tool almost certainly have a great vid on changing them.
@@type17 Thanks for the info! I'm in the Arizona desert but I think I was relying on really inexpensive cassettes. I'll do some research and upgrade. Your comments are super appreciated.
@@PeterPeadar Fine dust can get past cheap seals too, and will dry up grease just as quick as water will wash it out - better seals (better quality cassettes) are worth trying, but if that doesn't work, you could try a DIY schedule.
Token and Neco or HSC ceramics products are worth considering !
I almost cursed all of creation yesterday when my new 10 speed jockey wheels didn’t cure the coffee grinder noise coming off my rear setup…..
It’s new chain BS…I should have kept the old one and sourced a new cluster/chain….
I wouldn't think those style BB's were even still around
I update them wherever possible !!!
Back in the olden days when I worked on loose ball bottom brackets, I remember that the balls would wear out before the cups.
Do they still make square taper, cartridge bearing type bottom brackets that could replace that one?
you must purchase an adapter that presses into where the cups are, then you can thread a square taper bb into the adapter
Yes, either cheap ones from India or very expensive, good quality from Japan.
😊nice video
use the bearings till they breakin half lol
I only use sealed bottom brackets for this reason called "RELIABILITY" .
Tech Tuesday!!!
Need to replace the bearings.
My mechanic would have just convinced me to buy a new bottom bracket and have him replace it. 😅
Or at least take it apart and clean it, regrease etc...
I praise your mechanic as this is what I would do .
Looks like a square taper so I would just replace it with a new cartridge BB
Throwaway bottom bracket....
Adjustable cup & cone BB are the way to go 👍
No, so cheap and guaranteed to fail at some point.
Replace with sealed cartridge shimano SN55 if you want hassle free cycling.
Cup and cone is such an old/cheap design found on cheap or old bikes.
I am surprised that you didn't regrease these ball bearings - they are probably dry. That's why it turns so freely
I think not good dry rusty bearings
BB replacement for suuure
I'd replace a cheap, worn bottom bracket with shimano SN55.
Fit and forget.
HAH you havent seen the kind of mess my bike has on its bottom bracket
I have almost 50 year old road bikes and mid-80s mt bikes with this type of BB, as long as you regularly maintain them they will last a long long time plus they are cheaper to maintain in the long run. Sealed bearings are a joke.
Probably bad bearings :/
But just tighten up and send it, it'll be fine......
Still, this bottom bracket is used on modern bikes.
Lacking a replacement bb, if it has 9-ball retainers, I’d replace them with 11 loose 1/4” balls, and use a good thick grease, and it will be better. While apart, check for uneven wear on the races of the bb spindle. If bad, replace. Of course the best thing is a new cartridge bb, and toss the old thing.
Sounds like the bottom bracket needs replacing or needs regreasing. Has this guy been treating this bike like a bmx 🤔?
Just threw a cartridge BB In my mtb commuter. Races were galled. Probably twice the slop than demonstrated here
Better replace it with a hollowtech bottom bracket. IMHO.
That means new crankset too… just order a new cartridge square taper bb for $15-$20 for a hand me down kids bike. If you want to spend $$$ then tires and tubes would be the most cost effective upgrades
Told ya. 😂
it is not going to be ok - it’s destroyed :-)
👍😊
Maybe I'm wrong but I swear BBI said that the cups and raceways were stronger than bearings hence once the bearings were worn there is a good chance you can just replace the bearings and the races can be reused.
The ball bearings are the hardest part of the system. The threaded races have threads of course, and cannot be as hard. New ball bearings alone will not help.
It will.not go well. Needs a new bottom bracket whether the crank arms are worn or not. All very affordable.
maybe not so good?