The nice thing about having this channel is if you are a “make it right” kind of guy, even if you were to not charge for this event you still make money off the video series to offset it. Especially since the event makes for an interesting topic to present to the youtubes.
Hi Ray FYI, Here in Australia reconstituted stone products (kitchen counters etc) have been found to be very hazardous to cut and work on due to the silica dust that is created. This dust causes Silicosis an untreatable and fatal lung disease. Please make sure you are not a possible victim, we can’t afford to lose you! Keep up the great work.
If you are committed to getting this diagnosed and fixed you need to first of all fix the exhaust leak so you can hear the engine noise better. Another thing you could do is hook a mechanical oil pressure gauge and see how fast the oil pressure comes up on a cold start and see what the cold and hot oil pressure readings are.
Excellent suggestion with the manual oil pressure guage. If any of that paper that was jammed under the driver side valve cover got into any of the oil galleries, a blowed motor becomes very possible. I've been wondering what kind of "reman" engine they put in that truck ever since Ray found that paper. If they just did a junkyard swap and billed the owner for a "reman" motor, the owner should receive a REAL reman motor, after the people who ripped him off go to jail.
@@keithhastings4092 Well the owner of course will have to pay for the exhaust manifold replacement since the engine rebuilder has nothing to do with that but the exhaust manifold needs replaced regardless. So why not fix that now so it’s easier to diagnose the engine noise. As far as hooking up a temporary mechanical oil pressure gauge, that is a 5-10 minute procedure.
Yes.... Excellent suggestion. Labor time is an issue, but knowing the whole picture is super helpful at explaining, if this still does the rattle can start.
These trucks really need a permanent mechanical oil pressure gauge as the "gauge" from the factory is nothing ore that a glorified idiot light that reads 2/3 scale at any pressure over 4 psi. It is common for them to have drain-back issues with cheap oil filters.
Ray just my opinion but I believe that noise on start up is the timing chain tensioners. If the engine builders used poor quality tensions they can bleed off and allows the chain to slap the guides for a second until oil pressure builds back up in them.Just my thoughts I could be wrong but keep up the great work and great videos.
I have had many Fords make that noise on start up, and all of them have been timing chain tensioners. Oil starvation using cheap oil filters with crappy anti drain back valves, and or the wrong weight of oil is the usual culprit that gets it started. In this case, wrapping paper.😂
My Marquis makes a similar sound on occasional cold starts. More than 20 years and 186,000 miles as a daily driver I’ve just assumed the guides are worn down and the tensioners are getting close to their max. Having damage from an interstate sideswipe and maybe 70% of the trunk floor left due to rust, that rattle doesn’t bother me as much.
Yea once timing chain tensionors wear down guess where it all goes. It falls down into the oilpan and gets sucked up by the oil pump next thing you bye bye engine.
'Teamwork is dreamwork.' Yep, and saves SOOOOOO much time and frustration. As an added bonus, everybody learns something new. Love watching professionals working together. Cheers guys, love your work!
My God, the complexity of modern engines. I don’t know how you have the patience. I hope my 94 Toyota 4x4 pickup never gives up the ghost. I can easily access almost everything on that little 22re 4 cylinder.
I have a 2010 F150 King Ranch w/5.4 I'm religious about maintenance, oil changes etc...at 200k I had the timing sets replaced as a maintenance matter not broken yet. When I specified I wanted OEM Fordco parts for it, the shop was like why doormans are cheaper. My reply was OEM got me 200k no issues, can you guarantee after market for that,, Noooo. The old guides were just starting to show chain marks on them. And I put in a high flow oil pump need for the 5.4 to function better. Don't try and save a few bucks in this repair. You'll pay double in a about 30k miles. OEM for timing jobs only. Great video as always. Glad to see Arod again. I was born in mich, live in Jax now. Much warmer lol. 😅 I'm at 250k now now issues.
The shop I worked at (retired last March), when replacing timing chains we would use the older style tensioners . I mean the metal ones with the ratchet mechanisms. It would eliminate the normal start up rattle associated with the plastic tensioners. They fit tight on assembly, but they do fit. Just an FYI deal for what it's worth. You are correct. The second time always goes much quicker! Also, those Ford vacuum hubs,,,,,,,aaaarrrggghhhh!
Recommend you buy yourself some releasable zip ties. They're good at holding errant wires, hoses, and so on off to one side out of the way. Then when you want to remove said zip tie, you squeeze the release tab, and unzip the zip tie. Then it can be used again on a different day.
Great knowledge and experience can't be beat....this old retired guy really enjoys your posts. Many thanks to you and wife unit for sharing your daily lives. I really do start my day with Ray !
Your comments about tire pressure reminded me of my Mom, who worked at a tire store and was given a free set of Michelin radials to our 64 Corvair convertible, it was funny seeing mechanics shake their heads when my five foot and a bit mom tried to tell them the tires weren't flat. ;-D
This warranty company is doing what they do, of course, but that sounds to me like oiling, especially as quickly as it fades - that'll be right when oil pressure comes up. So I wholeheartedly agree with you on that, Ray. If I had to guess, I'd say that the detritus you found in the engine (that paper-y plastic-y stuff) starved something of oil for a bit, caused accelerated wear. Heard a story on Car Talk (I'm only 28, promise!), which was one of their Puzzlers. The way they told it, it ran low on oil, customer put oil in, kept going, and it just kept leaking. The question was, "What's caused the oil leak?" and the answer was that it had run low on oil the first time. That loss of oil pressure had caused damage which resulted in the leak.
By the way, my daughter's pediatrician was killed by an underinflated tire. That was some 20 years ago now. That's not the only example I've known of people being injured or had serious property damage due to underinflated tires. Check your tires often, especially in cold weather or times of year when the weather changes often.
In Arizona, you can see the results of under inflation of tires by the side of the road every summer. Yes cold makes them under inflated, but but heat shreds them at highway speeds. The TPM system/laws are a good thing in my book.
@@john_in_phoenix yup, I'm in Arizona, but it's important everywhere. BTW, I avoided disaster when I picked up a screw in my motorcycle rear tire on I-10. The TPMS gave me just enough time to pull over and stop. By the time I was almost stopped my fully loaded Goldwing had become a real handful. Thank you TPMS!
@@Bill_N_ATX IKR??? I always tell people to not call me 'Sir' because I werk fer a livin', dammit! As opposed to people not born here that are being payed to live here...
On my 5.4L back in the day, it rattled on startup due to plastic chain tensioners that would leak oil and release tension on the chains after sitting for a few hours, so had a performance shop in Australia replace the tensioners, chains and both phasers. Rattle went away after that 😁
I’ve been watching this channel for a long time now, and I’m super pumped to see that your ethics and proper diagnosis attitude has got you to be your boss. I’m an electrical and mechanical engineer myself working in automation in things such as gates, doors and access control. And .it’s so frustrating going to jobs only to tell people “ I’m sorry but none of that components sold to you were required” I really just hope that they just don’t know what they are doing, rather than just scamming
I am a data-com engineer and was on the sales side for 3 decades and it is no different over here. I always prided myself on my ethics, but I have seen some really sleazy stuff. I've also seen some really scary stuff with regards to monitoring, but that is a different conversation for a different time.
I had one of those. Went through the same thing. The engine blew, two cylinders lost compression, had a new crate engine put in it, then 80,000 mi later did the same thing. Bent over 8,000 on getting that engine put in. I sold it when it started doing it again, Ford is a rip off company, I will never buy another freaking Ford. Now I know what people meant when they say Ford stands for found on road dead. They should have recalled those engines years ago, but never did. Because they knew they could rip off people that had no idea what was going on. Your video just proved that. Thank you Ray, you just backed up my theory!! Praise the Lord I hope that people see this and never by their products again.
I have had my current auto for about 8 years and have yet to see a TPMS light, and this is the first one I've owned which as them. About once a week I do a visual walk-around of my car, and if even one tire looks slightly low it is time for all four to get aired to proper pressure. If I feel a mushiness driving? Same stop for air. And when I pull out of my parking spot, I look for evidence of fresh fluid leaks. - I pay attention to how the car feels and sounds when running, driving and braking, and when something is different, it gets checked. - But then, I am part of that old generation who were taught as Ray talks about when it comes to auto maintenance.
Only a 1/3 of the way thru this video and here is what I like. Rays co-worker asks for advice, but comes with a very detailed account of what he has and done thus far, not a weak IDK 🤷♂️ this stupid hub thing vacuum is boogered up. Nice knowledge share instead of throwing parts and theories at it. Shows that Ray wants quality techs in his shop that will ask for help and knowledge share for the best result for the customer. Keep it up guys.
PowerStroke Tech Talk w/ARod. He is not a coworker he has his own shop up north. He just down working on some Fords from people that requested him to work on them. They are good friends so Ray is letting him use his shop.
The phasers used by the rebuild company were not Ford OEM phasers. That's part of the reason they're having you change those first. They "saved" money rebuilding the engine...
I have a 2000 F250, it is recommended to disassemble the locking mechanism to clean and regrease the manual assembly yearly. Replace the O-ring when reinstalling it, there is a kit available with all the parts. If the hub is pulled off, replace the O-ring on the rear of the hub, inspect and replace the axle seal if it's cracked. When you switch to 4x4 the solenoid valve opens for a specified time to allow the hubs to lock or unlock, if I remember correctly it senses the variation in vacuum to tell if the hub has finished its movement. A vacuum leak will cause the pump to continuously run. A leaking solenoid valve or defrost diverter valve under the dash will give a big leak.
The paperwork that came with the engine said they had rebuilt it using upgraded phasers but it had the original "blow-up your engine" phasers in it. The paperwork also said they had put in an upgraded oil pump. Probably worth checking that...
I've done many of these engines amongst many others...I personally have owned 3 of these engines and whenever I get one I do 3 things to these engines....1- I put a meiling HV340 high volume oil pump. 2- I replace the factory timing tensioners with locking tensioners so they don't return when oil bleeds out and 3- I lock the phasers and get the vct's disabled on the ecm... that's a permanent fix for these 3 valves I've had nothing but success with this method and to be honest all that for less than 700 bucks. Super easy to do and motor last forever. FYI those phaser bolts are torque to yield meaning its a 1 time use bolt only I've always put them back but it's not recommended if you buy them new use ford only or high quality aftermarket.
Fix that manifold first because the sound is sometimes impossible to discern from chain rattle. The manifold gasket slaps until it warms up and expands. Before: 3:46 After: 39:23
I have fixed several of this particular problem by simply changing the oil filter to a Motorcraft filter (Ford engineered a very robust anti-drianback feature into them). Another mod that helps with this is using the older 2 valve metal chain tensioners- they dont have a seal to blow out and they ratchet as they extend. Simple bolt on fix with no modifications needed.
See this is why people like you exist, our world would grind to a halt without engineers like you and your buddy there. Yes you are an engineer, they fix problems. One comes along and you go into diag mode, you explore and uncover things, work things out and find a solution. Under warranty is very annoying as you can't do what you want but what your told even if you know it's not going to fix things. I know that feeling well. Great video as always Ray, big hugs to you and family. Have a great day
"engineer" used loosely is incorrect. It's a legal term. without a cert or degree, if you use that term in ads documents claiming to be such, technically you can be fined. It matters.
First THANK YOU for such Wonderful Videos . We love how you document your warranty work that protects You/Rainman and the Customer . Thank you for putting sloppy work to Shame ...
Was nice to see you and Aaron discussing an issue. It reminds me of when you were working at your previous job and other technicians would ask you for advice. Cooperation is always a good thing.
Just an idea stick of horoscope in the oil pan and see if you see a piece of that paper on the oil pickup. This is a problem I've seen one time before not on the Ford engine specifically but I've seen it once before
Having found the paper inside, if mine, I would have dropped the oil pan and looked for any evidence of debris clogging the pickup strainer. If I remember, sometime early on, it was started with the cam covers off. Whilst oil sprayed everywhere, that does give an indication of how long the pressure takes to reach the cams.
Seems to me few years back an old man taught me about these things that work for Ford for years the biggest damage you can do to rebuilding one of these motors is putting the gasket back up underneath the tensioners for the timing chain you said they usually blow out one side or the other within the first 10,000 MI
Really marvel at the complexity of the repairs you handle. Do you specifically advertise for major maintenance and repair challenges compared to what seemed like mostly oil changes and brake jobs at your previous company? I don’t think there are very many “Rainmans” and “Wife Units “ in the business. We and I mean your customers and us viewers are fortunate to have you.
I've a rainman and wife unit down the street: if I thought it would help, I'd buy them a ticket to go to Florida and get tuned up -- they and their techs couldn't do a 70s Chevy truck right -- pre vacuum hose era: sixteen year olds everywhere with a handful of wrenches can do era...
Yes all this cold with has caused TPS sensors to turn on I bought a ViAir tire inflator that connects to battery. ViAir is same company that makes air pumps for LowRiders
The last company that I drove for had 5.4 and 6.8 ford fleet trucks. I drove mine almost 350000 miles never had engine issues. Had alot of brake calibers replaced. Most of the trucks once started would run 8 to 10 hours a day and never get shut down. They were a real workhorse.
I did a timing job on a 3.5 eco boost twin turbo. New chain, guides, tensioners and all 4 phasers. Those oil ports are so small. It wouldn't surprise me if one or more are plugged with packaging material. What a big ooops that was.
Need to do them manifold it needs to be fixed were you can hear the motor better you would think great job done on it though i love y'all 👍❤️👍 your family and all ❤❤❤
On a vehicle like this where you're searching for a solution, constrained by a warranty company calling shots, it must be difficult to get the satisfaction of a job completion. For myself, that was the satisfaction, a completed job. Although there's still the exhaust leak to contend with, this second phaser replacement seems to have solved the engine noise. I'm looking forward to the follow-up video on the cold start to see. Good job, sticking to the job at hand, keeping the customer's best interest at heart. Thanks for sharing the journey.
Just out of curiousity, at what point can you start charging the "warranty company" rent for the space that this truck continues to occupy, plus the bay/rack for the continuous repair but non fix that they continue deny is wrong within the actual timing system??? And when does the owner begin to receive compensation for his vehicle being down unnecessarily... plus covering the cost of his rental vehicle??🙏💜
My brother purchased in 2008 a 2008 Ford F150 4x4 with the 5.4 he got it used in 2008 with 10k miles. My brother put another 130k miles on it and never had a issue with the truck period.. He had it serviced at the Ford Dealer for everything, oil changes were every 5k miles. Engine ran perfect when he traded it in for a new 2020 Ford F150 4x4 2.7 EcoBoost.
Hate too tell you but I'd tell him as soon as the engine starts making funky noises too get a 3.5 ecoboost cause the 2.7 has a internal water pump that will leak coolant into the oil pan and boom engine is toast
Never knew much about the timing chain or belt wedges to lock it and maintain the timing. I bought a few from TEMU for vary little and have them should the occasion arise.
It's either lifter from lack of oil or chain noise.. but I'd tackle that manifold so you don't have to worry about that drowning out the timing system noise.
One of my favourite dialogue exchanges from M*A*S*H: “You guys are gonna fix the whole world?” “Nope. Just our little corner of it.” But if enough people fix their “little corner”, they start to meet up and connect. And now we’re getting somewhere. Tikkun Olam
As a mechanic myself you will never see one move faster when you have to do the work a second time and cant go home until its done. I have been here with the costume waiting.
The oil pick-up screen on this engine is about 2" in diameter. Not like the good ole days. Paper in the system is going to plug it real fast. I came up with a back flush using parts from a remote oil filter kit to be able to back flush from the filter housing to the oil pan drain.
Listening through my TV and surround I was unable to hear the tick except from the cracked exhaust manifold. Would lick to hear it after that's fixed . As a learning standpoint it was a great video! Your hourly labor charge should go up at least $25 per hour for working on Fords. But that's just me !
That packing material is probably in the oil pump pickup tube screen. There is a utube short were a mechanic is telling folks to check their pickup tubes screens for blockage
The nice thing about having this channel is if you are a “make it right” kind of guy, even if you were to not charge for this event you still make money off the video series to offset it. Especially since the event makes for an interesting topic to present to the youtubes.
Hi Ray FYI, Here in Australia reconstituted stone products (kitchen counters etc) have been found to be very hazardous to cut and work on due to the silica dust that is created. This dust causes Silicosis an untreatable and fatal lung disease. Please make sure you are not a possible victim, we can’t afford to lose you! Keep up the great work.
Not sure what you did there but I enjoyed the video today more than usual. The camera work was masterful. You got right in there.
If you are committed to getting this diagnosed and fixed you need to first of all fix the exhaust leak so you can hear the engine noise better. Another thing you could do is hook a mechanical oil pressure gauge and see how fast the oil pressure comes up on a cold start and see what the cold and hot oil pressure readings are.
Excellent suggestion with the manual oil pressure guage. If any of that paper that was jammed under the driver side valve cover got into any of the oil galleries, a blowed motor becomes very possible.
I've been wondering what kind of "reman" engine they put in that truck ever since Ray found that paper. If they just did a junkyard swap and billed the owner for a "reman" motor, the owner should receive a REAL reman motor, after the people who ripped him off go to jail.
Someone has to pay for this work….
@@keithhastings4092
Well the owner of course will have to pay for the exhaust manifold replacement since the engine rebuilder has nothing to do with that but the exhaust manifold needs replaced regardless. So why not fix that now so it’s easier to diagnose the engine noise.
As far as hooking up a temporary mechanical oil pressure gauge, that is a 5-10 minute procedure.
Yes.... Excellent suggestion. Labor time is an issue, but knowing the whole picture is super helpful at explaining, if this still does the rattle can start.
These trucks really need a permanent mechanical oil pressure gauge as the "gauge" from the factory is nothing ore that a glorified idiot light that reads 2/3 scale at any pressure over 4 psi. It is common for them to have drain-back issues with cheap oil filters.
Ray just my opinion but I believe that noise on start up is the timing chain tensioners. If the engine builders used poor quality tensions they can bleed off and allows the chain to slap the guides for a second until oil pressure builds back up in them.Just my thoughts I could be wrong but keep up the great work and great videos.
I have had many Fords make that noise on start up, and all of them have been timing chain tensioners. Oil starvation using cheap oil filters with crappy anti drain back valves, and or the wrong weight of oil is the usual culprit that gets it started. In this case, wrapping paper.😂
Ray likes to talk a lot lol😮
My Marquis makes a similar sound on occasional cold starts. More than 20 years and 186,000 miles as a daily driver I’ve just assumed the guides are worn down and the tensioners are getting close to their max. Having damage from an interstate sideswipe and maybe 70% of the trunk floor left due to rust, that rattle doesn’t bother me as much.
Yea once timing chain tensionors wear down guess where it all goes. It falls down into the oilpan
and gets sucked up by the oil pump next thing you bye bye engine.
@@christsogaugetrainsReeeeeeee!
I love this series, it went from Etch-a-Sketch sketchy to ultra sketchy to ultimate Sketch-a-Thon!
Best thing to do is lock the phasers out, throw a tune on and call it a day. I did it 75k ago and it was the best decision I ever made!
I have 200k on my 08 F1500. Motor wont quit its a champ
'Teamwork is dreamwork.' Yep, and saves SOOOOOO much time and frustration. As an added bonus, everybody learns something new. Love watching professionals working together. Cheers guys, love your work!
My God, the complexity of modern engines. I don’t know how you have the patience. I hope my 94 Toyota 4x4 pickup never gives up the ghost. I can easily access almost everything on that little 22re 4 cylinder.
never ceases to amaze and aggravate me at how much of a spaghetti night mare that wiring harness is on that truck
Spaguetti cable!!
so much pins, older trucks make me feel better and there just good or needing whole parts replace not the new compact multi process system
I have a 2010 F150 King Ranch w/5.4 I'm religious about maintenance, oil changes etc...at 200k I had the timing sets replaced as a maintenance matter not broken yet. When I specified I wanted OEM Fordco parts for it, the shop was like why doormans are cheaper. My reply was OEM got me 200k no issues, can you guarantee after market for that,, Noooo. The old guides were just starting to show chain marks on them. And I put in a high flow oil pump need for the 5.4 to function better. Don't try and save a few bucks in this repair. You'll pay double in a about 30k miles.
OEM for timing jobs only. Great video as always. Glad to see Arod again. I was born in mich, live in Jax now. Much warmer lol. 😅 I'm at 250k now now issues.
The shop I worked at (retired last March), when replacing timing chains we would use the older style tensioners . I mean the metal ones with the ratchet mechanisms. It would eliminate the normal start up rattle associated with the plastic tensioners. They fit tight on assembly, but they do fit. Just an FYI deal for what it's worth.
You are correct. The second time always goes much quicker! Also, those Ford vacuum hubs,,,,,,,aaaarrrggghhhh!
Ford aaaaaaaaaarrrgghhhhhh. There, fixed it for you.
Recommend you buy yourself some releasable zip ties. They're good at holding errant wires, hoses, and so on off to one side out of the way. Then when you want to remove said zip tie, you squeeze the release tab, and unzip the zip tie. Then it can be used again on a different day.
Great knowledge and experience can't be beat....this old retired guy really enjoys your posts. Many thanks to you and wife unit for sharing your daily lives. I really do start my day with Ray !
Can't wait for the follow up.
Your comments about tire pressure reminded me of my Mom, who worked at a tire store and was given a free set of Michelin radials to our 64 Corvair convertible, it was funny seeing mechanics shake their heads when my five foot and a bit mom tried to tell them the tires weren't flat. ;-D
This warranty company is doing what they do, of course, but that sounds to me like oiling, especially as quickly as it fades - that'll be right when oil pressure comes up. So I wholeheartedly agree with you on that, Ray. If I had to guess, I'd say that the detritus you found in the engine (that paper-y plastic-y stuff) starved something of oil for a bit, caused accelerated wear. Heard a story on Car Talk (I'm only 28, promise!), which was one of their Puzzlers. The way they told it, it ran low on oil, customer put oil in, kept going, and it just kept leaking. The question was, "What's caused the oil leak?" and the answer was that it had run low on oil the first time. That loss of oil pressure had caused damage which resulted in the leak.
By the way, my daughter's pediatrician was killed by an underinflated tire. That was some 20 years ago now. That's not the only example I've known of people being injured or had serious property damage due to underinflated tires. Check your tires often, especially in cold weather or times of year when the weather changes often.
In Arizona, you can see the results of under inflation of tires by the side of the road every summer. Yes cold makes them under inflated, but but heat shreds them at highway speeds. The TPM system/laws are a good thing in my book.
@@john_in_phoenix yup, I'm in Arizona, but it's important everywhere.
BTW, I avoided disaster when I picked up a screw in my motorcycle rear tire on I-10. The TPMS gave me just enough time to pull over and stop. By the time I was almost stopped my fully loaded Goldwing had become a real handful. Thank you TPMS!
"It's a free country..........so they tell us." You NAILED it, Ray! 🤣🤣🤣🤣
I never understood that saying. Last I looked I was paying a whole lot to live here.
🤣🤣🤣👍👍👍👍👍🤣🤣🤣
@@Bill_N_ATX IKR??? I always tell people to not call me 'Sir' because I werk fer a livin', dammit!
As opposed to people not born here that are being payed to live here...
Morphin to joes🍌 republic
Nothing in life is free.
On my 5.4L back in the day, it rattled on startup due to plastic chain tensioners that would leak oil and release tension on the chains after sitting for a few hours, so had a performance shop in Australia replace the tensioners, chains and both phasers. Rattle went away after that 😁
Believe you me teamwork works and that was a good mechanic wanting. Another mechanics advice keep up the good work young man.
I’ve been watching this channel for a long time now, and I’m super pumped to see that your ethics and proper diagnosis attitude has got you to be your boss. I’m an electrical and mechanical engineer myself working in automation in things such as gates, doors and access control. And .it’s so frustrating going to jobs only to tell people “ I’m sorry but none of that components sold to you were required”
I really just hope that they just don’t know what they are doing, rather than just scamming
I am a data-com engineer and was on the sales side for 3 decades and it is no different over here. I always prided myself on my ethics, but I have seen some really sleazy stuff. I've also seen some really scary stuff with regards to monitoring, but that is a different conversation for a different time.
Correct.. Ethics is non existent!! Anywhere
I had one of those. Went through the same thing. The engine blew, two cylinders lost compression, had a new crate engine put in it, then 80,000 mi later did the same thing. Bent over 8,000 on getting that engine put in. I sold it when it started doing it again, Ford is a rip off company, I will never buy another freaking Ford. Now I know what people meant when they say Ford stands for found on road dead. They should have recalled those engines years ago, but never did. Because they knew they could rip off people that had no idea what was going on. Your video just proved that. Thank you Ray, you just backed up my theory!! Praise the Lord I hope that people see this and never by their products again.
Well my last two vehicles have been Ford. And a good ford dealership that they were purchased. Never a problem. Who did you sell it to?
I have had my current auto for about 8 years and have yet to see a TPMS light, and this is the first one I've owned which as them.
About once a week I do a visual walk-around of my car, and if even one tire looks slightly low it is time for all four to get aired to proper pressure.
If I feel a mushiness driving? Same stop for air.
And when I pull out of my parking spot, I look for evidence of fresh fluid leaks.
-
I pay attention to how the car feels and sounds when running, driving and braking, and when something is different, it gets checked.
-
But then, I am part of that old generation who were taught as Ray talks about when it comes to auto maintenance.
I don't wait for the dash indicators to come on, I'm old school too!
You can remove the 2 engine mount nuts jack the engine to remove the valve cover instead of removing the ac tube
HOPE THIS POOR GUYS TRUCK TURNS OUT OKAY FOR HIM AFTER THAT WHOLE ORDEAL WITH THE WARRANTY.SENDING POSITIVE VIBES HIS WAY FOR THIS SITUATION.
Only a 1/3 of the way thru this video and here is what I like. Rays co-worker asks for advice, but comes with a very detailed account of what he has and done thus far, not a weak IDK 🤷♂️ this stupid hub thing vacuum is boogered up. Nice knowledge share instead of throwing parts and theories at it. Shows that Ray wants quality techs in his shop that will ask for help and knowledge share for the best result for the customer. Keep it up guys.
PowerStroke Tech Talk w/ARod. He is not a coworker he has his own shop up north. He just down working on some Fords from people that requested him to work on them. They are good friends so Ray is letting him use his shop.
Heh, said coworker has his own YT channel, @PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod
Yeah, and I noticed Ray made loud noises with his electron ratcheting unit! 😅
The phasers used by the rebuild company were not Ford OEM phasers. That's part of the reason they're having you change those first. They "saved" money rebuilding the engine...
I’m pretty sure Ray said the reman co used oem ford phasers..
I have a 2000 F250, it is recommended to disassemble the locking mechanism to clean and regrease the manual assembly yearly. Replace the O-ring when reinstalling it, there is a kit available with all the parts. If the hub is pulled off, replace the O-ring on the rear of the hub, inspect and replace the axle seal if it's cracked. When you switch to 4x4 the solenoid valve opens for a specified time to allow the hubs to lock or unlock, if I remember correctly it senses the variation in vacuum to tell if the hub has finished its movement. A vacuum leak will cause the pump to continuously run. A leaking solenoid valve or defrost diverter valve under the dash will give a big leak.
Thanks Ray, another interesting video from the land of Ray's Auto Repairs even if the engine rebuild company is giving you the run around.
Even though the rebuild company is giving him the run around their check will still look good when deposited in the bank. 😆
The paperwork that came with the engine said they had rebuilt it using upgraded phasers but it had the original "blow-up your engine" phasers in it. The paperwork also said they had put in an upgraded oil pump. Probably worth checking that...
I've done many of these engines amongst many others...I personally have owned 3 of these engines and whenever I get one I do 3 things to these engines....1- I put a meiling HV340 high volume oil pump. 2- I replace the factory timing tensioners with locking tensioners so they don't return when oil bleeds out and 3- I lock the phasers and get the vct's disabled on the ecm... that's a permanent fix for these 3 valves I've had nothing but success with this method and to be honest all that for less than 700 bucks. Super easy to do and motor last forever. FYI those phaser bolts are torque to yield meaning its a 1 time use bolt only I've always put them back but it's not recommended if you buy them new use ford only or high quality aftermarket.
at time stamp 39:24 you can see the center connecter of the ECM arcing or sparking .
Fix that manifold first because the sound is sometimes impossible to discern from chain rattle.
The manifold gasket slaps until it warms up and expands.
Before: 3:46
After: 39:23
Yeah, I can't pick up that noise at all
I have fixed several of this particular problem by simply changing the oil filter to a Motorcraft filter (Ford engineered a very robust anti-drianback feature into them). Another mod that helps with this is using the older 2 valve metal chain tensioners- they dont have a seal to blow out and they ratchet as they extend. Simple bolt on fix with no modifications needed.
Hang in there Ray
See this is why people like you exist, our world would grind to a halt without engineers like you and your buddy there. Yes you are an engineer, they fix problems. One comes along and you go into diag mode, you explore and uncover things, work things out and find a solution. Under warranty is very annoying as you can't do what you want but what your told even if you know it's not going to fix things. I know that feeling well.
Great video as always Ray, big hugs to you and family. Have a great day
"engineer" used loosely is incorrect. It's a legal term. without a cert or degree, if you use that term in ads documents claiming to be such, technically you can be fined. It matters.
First THANK YOU for such Wonderful Videos .
We love how you document your warranty work that protects You/Rainman and the Customer . Thank you for putting sloppy work to Shame ...
Was nice to see you and Aaron discussing an issue. It reminds me of when you were working at your previous job and other technicians would ask you for advice. Cooperation is always a good thing.
I know that You know I know You know how to use every type of wrench known to man Sir
I swear I looked away for half a second and you were already putting it back together!!!
Just an idea stick of horoscope in the oil pan and see if you see a piece of that paper on the oil pickup. This is a problem I've seen one time before not on the Ford engine specifically but I've seen it once before
Having found the paper inside, if mine, I would have dropped the oil pan and looked for any evidence of debris clogging the pickup strainer.
If I remember, sometime early on, it was started with the cam covers off. Whilst oil sprayed everywhere, that does give an indication of how long the pressure takes to reach the cams.
I loved my 04. Finally sold it at 300k mi. Original engine.
I love the shield stating Tool Gravity is near :D
I had an 04 expedition with 180k miles on original engine it got very regular oil changes never had a problem with engine
Seems to me few years back an old man taught me about these things that work for Ford for years the biggest damage you can do to rebuilding one of these motors is putting the gasket back up underneath the tensioners for the timing chain you said they usually blow out one side or the other within the first 10,000 MI
Really marvel at the complexity of the repairs you handle. Do you specifically advertise for major maintenance and repair challenges compared to what seemed like mostly oil changes and brake jobs at your previous company? I don’t think there are very many “Rainmans” and “Wife Units “ in the business. We and I mean your customers and us viewers are fortunate to have you.
I've a rainman and wife unit down the street: if I thought it would help, I'd buy them a ticket to go to Florida and get tuned up -- they and their techs couldn't do a 70s Chevy truck right -- pre vacuum hose era: sixteen year olds everywhere with a handful of wrenches can do era...
Well, he is an auto clinic.. I think it needs to be upgraded to auto hospital, because he goes much further than a clinic would!
I like what you said about transparency. Even where there isn't any, I can usually see right through the BS.
I’m on the edge of my Barcalounger Waiting for the part where it does or does not make noise tomorrow 😎
Yes all this cold with has caused TPS sensors to turn on I bought a ViAir tire inflator that connects to battery. ViAir is same company that makes air pumps for LowRiders
That Ford has been a nightmare for u. Great work and patients.
Ray, when you started that engine, I saw some spray come out to the passenger side from under the air filter.
Me too 🤔🤔🤔
Ray must pay really well for that new "employee" to commute from Michigan.... 🤣
The last company that I drove for had 5.4 and 6.8 ford fleet trucks. I drove mine almost 350000 miles never had engine issues. Had alot of brake calibers replaced. Most of the trucks once started would run 8 to 10 hours a day and never get shut down. They were a real workhorse.
Rare on the 5.4 and 6.8
Musta been 2 valves.
that wire harness at the PCM is sparking.!!!!!!!!!
Yeah, saw that too, or might just be some tape flapping in the airstream. Sparks would be bad!
I did a timing job on a 3.5 eco boost twin turbo. New chain, guides, tensioners and all 4 phasers. Those oil ports are so small. It wouldn't surprise me if one or more are plugged with packaging material. What a big ooops that was.
Ray I notice that when you took that fazer off oil came out of the banjo bolt on this side but didn't notice it on the left side.
Need to do them manifold it needs to be fixed were you can hear the motor better you would think great job done on it though i love y'all 👍❤️👍 your family and all ❤❤❤
The correct fix is going to be jack up the radiator cap, and drive a new truck under it, or just replace the engine again.
I hope that new exhaust manifold smoothes that truck out and that it drives reliably for many years.
On a vehicle like this where you're searching for a solution, constrained by a warranty company calling shots, it must be difficult to get the satisfaction of a job completion. For myself, that was the satisfaction, a completed job. Although there's still the exhaust leak to contend with, this second phaser replacement seems to have solved the engine noise. I'm looking forward to the follow-up video on the cold start to see. Good job, sticking to the job at hand, keeping the customer's best interest at heart. Thanks for sharing the journey.
So impressive Ray. Anyone can take stuff apart, but remembering where everything goes back and it works again is tough...
Just out of curiousity, at what point can you start charging the "warranty company" rent for the space that this truck continues to occupy, plus the bay/rack for the continuous repair but non fix that they continue deny is wrong within the actual timing system??? And when does the owner begin to receive compensation for his vehicle being down unnecessarily... plus covering the cost of his rental vehicle??🙏💜
Ray, excellent videos as always... If the builder used sub standard parts, you will be chasing those noises forever... I wish you the best of luck...
Sometimes the Rabbit -Hole Repairs just gets Deeper and Deeper...
My brother purchased in 2008 a 2008 Ford F150 4x4 with the 5.4 he got it used in 2008 with 10k miles. My brother put another 130k miles on it and never had a issue with the truck period.. He had it serviced at the Ford Dealer for everything, oil changes were every 5k miles. Engine ran perfect when he traded it in for a new 2020 Ford F150 4x4 2.7 EcoBoost.
Hate too tell you but I'd tell him as soon as the engine starts making funky noises too get a 3.5 ecoboost cause the 2.7 has a internal water pump that will leak coolant into the oil pan and boom engine is toast
Never knew much about the timing chain or belt wedges to lock it and maintain the timing.
I bought a few from TEMU for vary little and have them should the occasion arise.
I had visions of the fondue fork pulling out of that yellow chain wedge when yanked. "Now how the *uck do I get that out of there?!" LOL 🤣
13:41 I love A-Rod
It's either lifter from lack of oil or chain noise.. but I'd tackle that manifold so you don't have to worry about that drowning out the timing system noise.
You love your job so much what you do it twice or three times in a roll!!
Looking forward to seeing what happens.
Nice job Ray there is nothing better than the "signs of silence" no intension of stealing from Simon and Garfunkel. No more ticky.
102nd! Great Saturday morning Ray and the wife unit. And a HOOTY HOO to the new employees. Roger in Pierre South Dakota
Welcoming back!
That parts cannon be firing blanks!
Yup! The engine rebuilder is desperate to not have to pay to have this thing yanked and sent back
One of my favourite dialogue exchanges from M*A*S*H: “You guys are gonna fix the whole world?”
“Nope. Just our little corner of it.”
But if enough people fix their “little corner”, they start to meet up and connect. And now we’re getting somewhere.
Tikkun Olam
Maybe you should have fixed the exhaust problem to eliminate that from the big picture. No interference from other noises
As a mechanic myself you will never see one move faster when you have to do the work a second time and cant go home until its done. I have been here with the costume waiting.
you are leaking electricity out of the middle connector of that box with 3 connectors check the video......at tthe end by startup.....
I think you'll find it's a bit of tape flapping about in the back draft off the fan like some of the other bits of wiring harness.
Good eye 👁️
The oil pick-up screen on this engine is about 2" in diameter. Not like the good ole days. Paper in the system is going to plug it real fast. I came up with a back flush using parts from a remote oil filter kit to be able to back flush from the filter housing to the oil pan drain.
You can use the smoke machine and fill the hub up with smoke and see if it leaks.
Not sure if the do Drug Test there😏
I believe Eric O at South Main Auto used a smoke machine to diag vac hubs on Super Duty that had a similar issue.
Yes he did, that was a great video.@@HoboJoeGarage
Try to run a bore scope to view oul pick up or run anolog gauge on oil pressure ray
I think you should fix the exhaust leak then work on phaser.
Yes, every time he starts the engine, I find myself thinking the same thing.
He's said he's saving that for last in case he has to replace the engine
Thank you
My auto locker hubs quit working 15 years ago. Being cheap; I just get out and lock them manually.
Listening through my TV and surround I was unable to hear the tick except from the cracked exhaust manifold. Would lick to hear it after that's fixed . As a learning standpoint it was a great video! Your hourly labor charge should go up at least $25 per hour for working on Fords. But that's just me !
I'm just astounded that you use a fondue dip to tension the chain 😂
Borrowed from wife unit's dinner-party set.
Man I feel bad for the owner of the vehicle. What a nightmare. I feel bad for Ray too getting caught in the middle of it.
wow a talking talk wrench Ray has showen us a new toy.
That packing material is probably in the oil pump pickup tube screen. There is a utube short were a mechanic is telling folks to check their pickup tubes screens for blockage
I have faith that this is the problem solver. (fingers crossed 🤞).
-Salute-
Air pressure matters....I feel a difference if i am 3-4 psi low...if you get a TP alarm, it's way past just low. tire pressures matter.
i would pull the vvt both side see if ya got oil pressure no paper in there,that exh leak drive me cray cray
I would think that paper stuff would be in the oil pickup screen....also could also check oil pressure.
Great video as always.
On a/c, this is right because reference is when your siting in the driver seat looking fwr. It got me confused for a sec. there.
maybe bore scope the oil pan some how and see if something is blocking the sump????
I hope the engine re builder installed a Melling high volume oil pump. Nice work Ray!
I heard high vol pumps were not a good idea, massive increase in pressure at the bearing. Not good