Hi guys thanks for the video but just an fyi the driver side control arm is harder to do because the transmission pan limits access to pull the bolt from the front bushing all the way out. A way to work around it is to unbolt the lower engine mount which are two 13mm bolts and then just pull the engine forward by the transmission pan. Works best with an extra set of hands but as precautionary placing your jack before the engine mount will stop the mount from dropping out. All in all great video, completed the repair using Jack stands in my driveway whole job took just about 2 hours.
Thanks for watching Roger. We carry the control arm shown in this video on our website with FREE SHIPPING in the lower 48 states, if anyone else needs to make this repair. Here's a link to them. www.1aauto.com/volkswagen-beetle-golf-jetta-control-arm-front/i/1aslf00085?VideoReply&VideoReply&ATony
Absolute nightmare! Seal blew out on the floor jack so I used the vw jack to lift the vehicle. Got all bolts loosened and then figured I didn't have clearance to remove bolt. Not enough room to crawl under vehicle and besides the jack I need to move motor is holding the car up. Have to use car for work so I tightened everything back up to complete another day when I had more time. Had a lots of trouble get bolt to start and think I may have stripped it
Per Volkswagen Bentley repair manual the torque specs you rattle off in this video are very wrong. The three bolts holding the ball joints are 15ftlb + 1/4 turn. The vertical bolt on the rear or arm is 74ftlb + 1/4 turn and last the front horizontal bolt is 52 ftlb +1/4 turn.
I've read its best to tighten suspension components with vehicle weight on them. That way they rest in their natural position rather than tightened then twisted into resting position by weight. May not make a big difference but makes sense that it will allow them to last longer.
Your torque values do not match the Bentley VW service manual. At 4:09 these are 15 ft lbs plus a quarter of a turn = 18 ft lbs. At 5:50 75 ft lbs plus a quarter of a turn. At 6:03 to 11 ft lbs.
I have a 2002 vw golf and the dayum oil cover is in the way of getting the bolt free on the passengers side im in new zealand and it sucks. Seems easier pulling it out rather than puttin it back in though haha drivers side is alot easier
That sway bar link bolt that goes into the control arm keeps stripping on 2 different control arms and i used new bolts both time. Im frustrated. Great video btw
jerry fregozo We have this part listed as fitting the 2002 Golf hatchback. Here's a link to the part on our website, if you would like to take a look at it. www.1aauto.com/volkswagen-beetle-golf-jetta-control-arm/i/1aslf00085?TH-cam&CTA%20Comment&ATony
Well, I can't seem to fit any of my pairs of vice grips in there... And won't I damage the boot if I do that? I didn't really want to replace the ball joint, but I guess I'm going to end up doing that. (I'm using my original arms and pressing some poly bushings in)
I have a 2002 Cabrio - did you have to loosen any of the engine mounts also? I would think the transmission and engine would drop with the subframe but maybe not.
@@ColonelSevendot Trying to decide whether to drop the subframe or raise the engine on my 2002 Cabrio. Did you just loosen one engine mount bolt on the drivers side to raise the engine or did you loosen both rear engine mounts?
I have a 99 Jetta and I have developed a lot problems with wheel shaking around 60+MPH. Last time I had it balanced and alignment checked, it felt really good at higher speeds. However, I had to remove the front wheels to replace the wheel sensors and once I did that, the wheel shake returned. I’m am thinking of getting the front suspension redone with a kit from ECS tuning but before I do that, I’m wondering what else am I missing that could be affecting the wheel shake? Would adding a stud kit to the hubs help with possible misalignment of the wheel onto the hub itself? Is that even possible? I appreciate your video and your feedback!
I don't think this is the same for passats. I can only find jetta videos though and I'm pretty sure my ball joint is in a control arm instead of being able to replace just the joint.
+Patrick Teater Here is a link to the control arms that we carry for your vehicle and also current prices on them. Hope this helps you out. goo.gl/PBFDLj
Sirtokesalot47 Loosen the passenger motor mount. Put a jack and a block of wood under the oil pan. Lift engine until you have enough clearance to remove the bolt.
Yeah really that's what happened to me Gotta be the dumbest piece of engineering You are probably like me and that's why you're watching a video I Drilled out the whole underneath to 3/4 of Is of an inch or 19 mm for you fuckers that design this
The very first bolt you remove on the control arm, what can I do if it doesnt come out, I think the thread is worn out. It turns but doesnt come out. What are my options?
I'm going to cut the welds so the facing plate comes off, weld the nut back onto that facing plate, then weld the facing plate back on. A lot of trouble when they could have just made it correctly.
+Billy Bongz Thanks for checking out our video! It is always recommended to have an alignment done after replacing any steering/suspension components in your vehicle. 1aauto.com
What do you do when the fastener inside the subframe on the outer bushing part of the control arm breaks free of the subframe? Can you please give me some options? Can out be welded from the outside without ruining the threads? It's a Mexican subframe which uses adhesive instead of the German subframe that are welded. I want to drill a extra two holes but don't want to compromise the integrity of the subframe. I don't know what to do, everyone I fix it or buy the new parts it gets worse from now fixing it immediately
It gets worse from not fixing it immediately, I'll buy the parts then sit on them for a few weeks and when I feel motivated enough there is a lot more damage. I haven't even driven the car in almost two months because I'm worried taking it to the shop will break something. The price and condition and price of the parts were very very inexpensive. So I'm not worried but almost 350+hp on a stock suspension destroys parts at least once a weak there is a failure in the drivetrain
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Hi guys thanks for the video but just an fyi the driver side control arm is harder to do because the transmission pan limits access to pull the bolt from the front bushing all the way out. A way to work around it is to unbolt the lower engine mount which are two 13mm bolts and then just pull the engine forward by the transmission pan. Works best with an extra set of hands but as precautionary placing your jack before the engine mount will stop the mount from dropping out. All in all great video, completed the repair using Jack stands in my driveway whole job took just about 2 hours.
Thanks for watching Roger. We carry the control arm shown in this video on our website with FREE SHIPPING in the lower 48 states, if anyone else needs to make this repair. Here's a link to them. www.1aauto.com/volkswagen-beetle-golf-jetta-control-arm-front/i/1aslf00085?VideoReply&VideoReply&ATony
The driver's side is a bit of a PITA because of the transmission, but disconnecting the "dog bone" and rotating it out of the way works like a charm!
I wish they had mentioned this before I started!!!
Absolute nightmare! Seal blew out on the floor jack so I used the vw jack to lift the vehicle. Got all bolts loosened and then figured I didn't have clearance to remove bolt. Not enough room to crawl under vehicle and besides the jack I need to move motor is holding the car up. Have to use car for work so I tightened everything back up to complete another day when I had more time. Had a lots of trouble get bolt to start and think I may have stripped it
Roger Archer thanks, wish I saw this comment before I started in on the job. Unbelievable, of course show the easy side! Assholes
Thanks great video. You should mention at the end to get an alignment right away.
Thanks for fast forwarding through the part I needed to know.
Per Volkswagen Bentley repair manual the torque specs you rattle off in this video are very wrong. The three bolts holding the ball joints are 15ftlb + 1/4 turn. The vertical bolt on the rear or arm is 74ftlb + 1/4 turn and last the front horizontal bolt is 52 ftlb +1/4 turn.
I've read its best to tighten suspension components with vehicle weight on them. That way they rest in their natural position rather than tightened then twisted into resting position by weight. May not make a big difference but makes sense that it will allow them to last longer.
excellent video.....this is also for 2002 skoda octavia which uses the mark4 golf platform : common parts
Your torque values do not match the Bentley VW service manual. At 4:09 these are 15 ft lbs plus a quarter of a turn = 18 ft lbs. At 5:50 75 ft lbs plus a quarter of a turn. At 6:03 to 11 ft lbs.
Great video. Thank you so much for this! This will save me soooo much headache.
being vdub guy it's alot easier to replace the whole control arm vs trying to replace the bushings because the bushings cost way to much
Tony Mullins .......Good info. Thx
Thank you so much for your great help! And I wish you and your business the best.
This really helped thank you
Thank you for watching!
888-844-3393
I have a 2002 vw golf and the dayum oil cover is in the way of getting the bolt free on the passengers side im in new zealand and it sucks. Seems easier pulling it out rather than puttin it back in though haha drivers side is alot easier
Good Job. No unnecessary yappin. ty
+Carlo Vincetti Thank you!
Steering wheel crooked after wards alignment?
That sway bar link bolt that goes into the control arm keeps stripping on 2 different control arms and i used new bolts both time. Im frustrated. Great video btw
+Besart Habilaj Thanks for checking us out. 1AAuto.com
Great video!! Would this apply to a 2002 vw golf gti? Thanks for Your response!!!
jerry fregozo We have this part listed as fitting the 2002 Golf hatchback. Here's a link to the part on our website, if you would like to take a look at it. www.1aauto.com/volkswagen-beetle-golf-jetta-control-arm/i/1aslf00085?TH-cam&CTA%20Comment&ATony
5:40 it's better to first put pressure on the control arm before tightening the bolts down.
+Max Thanks for the feedback!
Well cutting where the fastener goes and welding a L bracket work?
The vice grips where they used to keep the ball joint from spinning for removal?
Thank you
Thanks for watching. That is correct. They keep it from spinning allowing you to remove the nut. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
Yes, to keep it from spinning.
Well, I can't seem to fit any of my pairs of vice grips in there... And won't I damage the boot if I do that? I didn't really want to replace the ball joint, but I guess I'm going to end up doing that. (I'm using my original arms and pressing some poly bushings in)
You can also put a jack underneath the ball joint. It puts pressure on it it keeps it from spinning.
For the drivers side on a 2002 golf i had to drop the whole subframe an inch to allow the front control arm bolt to be removed
Alternatively undo the engine mount and raise the engine slightly.
Nope, loosen the doggone mount and push the motor forward
I have a 2002 Cabrio - did you have to loosen any of the engine mounts also? I would think the transmission and engine would drop with the subframe but maybe not.
@@ColonelSevendot Trying to decide whether to drop the subframe or raise the engine on my 2002 Cabrio. Did you just loosen one engine mount bolt on the drivers side to raise the engine or did you loosen both rear engine mounts?
This would be the right side?
Why the easy one ? you should of done the driver side that is what we need a video on 😭😭
The driver side is 10 times hotter cause the transmission is in the way for the front boat to come out have to raise engine everything else
I have a 99 Jetta and I have developed a lot problems with wheel shaking around 60+MPH. Last time I had it balanced and alignment checked, it felt really good at higher speeds. However, I had to remove the front wheels to replace the wheel sensors and once I did that, the wheel shake returned. I’m am thinking of getting the front suspension redone with a kit from ECS tuning but before I do that, I’m wondering what else am I missing that could be affecting the wheel shake? Would adding a stud kit to the hubs help with possible misalignment of the wheel onto the hub itself? Is that even possible? I appreciate your video and your feedback!
I had the same issue. I replaced my inner outer tie rods got alignment done and tire balance and it went away
Is an alignment necessary after doing this?
+Shawn Afshar Yes it is recommended after changing any suspension parts to get an alignment.
I don't think this is the same for passats. I can only find jetta videos though and I'm pretty sure my ball joint is in a control arm instead of being able to replace just the joint.
I am thinking this is probably the same for the 2004 Volkswagen Beetle - could you tell me how much a new control arm would be for that?
+Patrick Teater Here is a link to the control arms that we carry for your vehicle and also current prices on them. Hope this helps you out. goo.gl/PBFDLj
ok this dont help me u did the easy side how do u do the hard side where the transmissions in the way of removing the bolt
Sirtokesalot47 Loosen the passenger motor mount. Put a jack and a block of wood under the oil pan. Lift engine until you have enough clearance to remove the bolt.
What do you do if the front mount nut broke free?
You replace subframe from junkyark
Or cut a hole in the subframe just big enough to access then nut that is spinning
Yeah really that's what happened to me Gotta be the dumbest piece of engineering You are probably like me and that's why you're watching a video I Drilled out the whole underneath to 3/4 of Is of an inch or 19 mm for you fuckers that design this
The very first bolt you remove on the control arm, what can I do if it doesnt come out, I think the thread is worn out. It turns but doesnt come out. What are my options?
If there a bolt on the other end, you would need to find something to keep the bolt from turning. 1aauto.com 866-403-3393
I'm going to cut the welds so the facing plate comes off, weld the nut back onto that facing plate, then weld the facing plate back on. A lot of trouble when they could have just made it correctly.
XLNT !!!
that sway bar links are plastic or iron???? its same quality oem part ???
+LAWRENCE / L-JETRONIC They are made of metal. 1aauto.com
1A Auto Parts They’re plastic 🤦♂️
After I did this my steering wheel is now off center is that normal and it can be fixed with an alignment? Or did I do something wrong?
+Billy Bongz Thanks for checking out our video! It is always recommended to have an alignment done after replacing any steering/suspension components in your vehicle. 1aauto.com
What do you do when the fastener inside the subframe on the outer bushing part of the control arm breaks free of the subframe? Can you please give me some options? Can out be welded from the outside without ruining the threads? It's a Mexican subframe which uses adhesive instead of the German subframe that are welded. I want to drill a extra two holes but don't want to compromise the integrity of the subframe. I don't know what to do, everyone I fix it or buy the new parts it gets worse from now fixing it immediately
It gets worse from not fixing it immediately, I'll buy the parts then sit on them for a few weeks and when I feel motivated enough there is a lot more damage. I haven't even driven the car in almost two months because I'm worried taking it to the shop will break something. The price and condition and price of the parts were very very inexpensive. So I'm not worried but almost 350+hp on a stock suspension destroys parts at least once a weak there is a failure in the drivetrain
If the sub frame is rotted or damaged, you may have to replace the damaged parts with a new piece.
The driver side is NOT a similar procedure! You have to pull the transmission pan on the driver side!
Thank you for the comments and for watching! +Kevin Daniel