Wow, so many videos that are absolutely no help with no narration, crappy camera work and missing out useful information. Not this guy, this is a simple but awesome video, great narration, great camera view and didn’t miss anything I needed to know. What a breath of fresh air finding this guy 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼well done Sir
Been in the motor trade since the age of 16 now 34. Most of done several hundred sets of pads and discs on transits over the years. I tried your way today for the 1st time... Jesus it saved some time and effort splitting the hub. Top marks! 10/10!
Ha ha, nice one, me too, and I'm 47 mate, sometimes, someone else just sees things that bit different to how we see it, and when you see it, you think, why the hell didn't I think of that, it's so simple. lol And kudos on admitting it, not everyone would. I try to live by the ancient Chinese proverb of "To ask may be a moment's shame, but to not ask and remain ignorant, is a lifetime shame" It never hurts to admit that you don't know something, and you might even learn something new, always cool.
@@SHARPEYSWORKSHOP. Hi. I’ve just watched both videos and that’s how I will go about replacing my discs, so thanks very much. Top of my job list is to replace my notchy/ leaky stearing rack. Will I need to remove the subframe do you think or just slacken it off to lower it perhaps ? I’ve just bought a Haynes manual for the Mk 7 and there is no mention of rack replacement, so I’m quite disappointed there. Any tips much appreciated. Thanks. Edit: The Haynes Manual has a paragraph about “ Stearing Gear”….not Rack !! And no pictures😳. There’s no mention of the subframe, and from the steering wheel to the universal joint/flexible couple onto the rack itself , there appears to be a “steering column intermediate shaft” which slides upwards to separate from the rack. Bobs your Uncle….I hope.
liked the way you retracted the piston without the specific tool . they're not exactly cheap. doing pads and discs at home looks easy enough to do.thanks for the video
+TPlinks XL cheers yes whenever I need to do some work to my van I will be uploading them it's looking like I my have to replace rear axle oil seal in a few weeks
Looked at a few videos on disc replacement and yours is definitely the best. Thanks for the time and effort you put I to making the video for people like me and others 👍
3:10 You can do it from the front, it's easier. 4:23 The 5 bolts that hold the disc are stretch bolts, they must be changed every time. Copper grease is a bad idea, locktite must be applied if you don't buy new bolts that already have locktite on them. Thanks for the video.
Brilliant video again, well explained, good clear picture , i been belting the hell out of my brake disc today, and got no where ! the M10 bolt idea is great, i will be looking through my many tins of bolts for 3 M10 bolts first thing tomorrow ! all this hassle just to drive in a lower ball joint, ! awful idea having the joint pressed in to the hub carrier, who ever thought of that !! If you have a video of replacing a lower ball joint that would be well worth seeing, i spent hours trying to press the new one in from under the van with no success , even pre heating the casting made no difference, so probably going to have to take it down to the local garage and get them to press it in, probably for £20 extra as well !!!!
Excellent video, just what was needed. Much prefer the calm and collected style of presentation over a large portion of other youtubers covering the same subject. Subscribed and hoping for more quality content in the future :)
+Charly Chimpo thank you for the nice comment iam just starting a new channel "sharpeys garage" where I will be posting all my car and van repairs this channel is going to to be mostly woodwork etc thanks for the support
After 5 hours of NOT getting the hub to separate on my transit tomorrow, we are going to try your way tomorrow. I only wish I’d found your video earlier rather than the ones saying “keep hitting it with a hammer” as it just wouldn’t budge
Thanks for sharing this video. Just tackled the job on my transit. The tip with the long M10's to drive out hub works a treat. Hope you don't mind me adding this........Mine is fwd so anyone doing theirs has the added removal of the driveshafts, just undo and remove the long bolt through the front lower wishbone bush, slacken off the rear bush mounting bolt and swing the whole lot out and this gives room to withdraw the driveshaft from the rear of the hub, zip tie it out the way and the rest is the same as the video. I also had the added job of 1 (there's always 1) of those T50 bolts rounding off the head despite hammering in etc and going easy! I ran an 8mm drill bit into it and then hammered the T50 into that, it cuts its own socket and gripped enough to get it undone and out. Hopefully this may help someone out. Thanks again for sharing this video, much appreciated!
Great video. But one big noo u never grease any bolt treads on a brake or suspension. U clean them and some parts need treadlock on them. Grease on treads wil make them come undone after some time. And u need to say goodby to copper grease whit modern cars.
In the last year of a four year apprenticeship. Transits are a bread & butter for our garage. Been wanting a way to take this part out without smashing the back of the disk like some sort of caveman. Which is what all the techs at my garage do. However i feel if the brake-disk is all i'm wanting to replace then smashing the whole thing damages the bearing on the way off. I spend half an hour making up these bolts. The other techs laughed at me right up until the bearing/flange fell off without a single hammer blow. Then it was like a showed the cavemen how to make fire. I was a god for the rest of the day.😂
where is the speed sensor located on the 6sp RWD transmission on Ford Transit LWB 2012 T155 2.2L? Van goes into limp mode at 40mph with TCS dash light flashing. Diagnosed as wiring/faulty VSS, because (when goes into limp mode) all 4 wheel speed sensors report speed but VSS reports no data (0 mph).
Great how to video , I've been putting off doing mine but watching your video has inspired me to do them , what I'm not looking forward to is doing the back drums and shoes........👍
Love the video sir any chance you can say socket spanner size when you working on the van as I only have a small tool kit and had to go and get that socket that had gone missing from the set 👍
Brilliant video, however by inserting the bolts through the back it broke the bearing so the hub popped out but has left the casing of the bearing in the hub carrier!! Bum!!😂
hi I think fwd are the same but the centre spline will have the driveshaft on the back but if your doing the ball joints as well shouldn't be a problem good luck
+Bob Tolhurst hi Bob I don't think I'll get chance to work on anything that new sorry mate but if it's rear wheel drive the procedure should be similar really sorry I can't help mate
I have a 2015 custom. Watched the video took the front wheel drivers side off to replace disc and pads. But I could not get the hub off as the disc is behind it. The disc and hub are separated but as I say can't get the disc off due to the hub in the way. Gave up and put it back together. What do you have to do to get the front discs off?
+Wayne Stocker hi Wayne if it's the same as mine you will need a long torx t50 to go through the holes in the hub there should be five of them but if it's front wheel drive I would probably take it to a garage if I where you It can be a nightmare
Hi can you tell me what tool I need to remove the hub? I got the caliper off and the bolts off from the rotar but couldn't get the ones inside. Can you tell me what I need to get them out? Thanks
Hi buddy they shouldn't be tight it could be the treads are very rusty inside or full of debris I would use plenty of wd40 to try and clean the treads if that doesn't work I would say the threads are damaged so you might have to find a way to remove the hub without the bolts sorry buddy that's the best I can come up with good luck
Hi Sohail, I have just attempted the job following Sharpeys video which just like your comment the rust in the threads is so bad on mine i dare not insert the bolts. How did you overcome this matter? Fairly urgent reply would be appriciated regards Chris
So does this affect the wheel bearing? My mot tester said they are a right pain to do. My 2014 custom needs new front disks and wishbones, it’s done 80k now so wondering if I should do wheelbearings anyway while it’s apart even though they are still fine.
+1949bug hi buddy once the hubs off the bearings need to be pressed out as far as I know but don't buy cheap bearings they don't last 5 mins if you can't afford decent bearings leave the ones you've got good luck buddy
SHARPEYS WORKSHOP Thanks mate I’ve learnt over the years, there’s. Reason genuine parts are more expensive and that’s because you get what you pay for.
Fantastic video , very helpful, love your style 👍 . Any one know torque setting of the 36mm hub nut of this front wheel on a rear wheel drive mk7 transit same as this one, is it the same as fwd as they are around the 450nm mark after a rotation tightening sequence apparently , but this been a dummy drive shaft im not to sure. thanks
very throrough job... only one hiccup was to check the sliding caliper pins if they need more grease inside those top and bottom dust boots, otherwise, thumbs up!
Hi mate, another question. My owners manual says to tighten the retaining nut and bolts in 5 stages (with rotating the hub 5 times in between each). Is this what you did, or did you have just 1 setting of torque and tighten it to that measurement? Cheers
+Travis Smit hi mate no I just tightened the up alternatively then went round them all to double check but I am not a mechanic probably best to follow manual cheers
Hi Paul, things didn't go to plan unfortunately. A stud stripped, that connects the hub to the knuckle. Have to try and make a plan tomorrow somehow. Quick question on something else - the torque setting to tighten the front wheel spindle retaining nut is 310 lbs/ft (420 Nm). Does this sound right?? My torque wrench goes to 150 lbs/ft
+Travis Smit hi mate I don't know the torque setting mate I just used a long bar .as for striping the the bolts if it's the torx make sure you tap it in with a hammer they are so easy to strip
Hi mate, great video! My owners manual says I need to buy a new retaining nut and washer, as well as new bolts to secure to the hub. I've already spent so much on all the parts and tools needed that I really don't want to waste money on something that isn't necessary. What are your honest thoughts? Replace or use same ones if they seem fine? Cheers
i own a mk6 24 bus when on the brakes peddle bounces like its using the abs but abs light on dash is not showing up this started after new bearings disks and pads could this be a caliper fault
+ken johnson hi ken iam trying to remember which hose your referring to is it in this video or a different one let me know and I'll try and help cheers paul
+ken johnson right I see it's just a peice of steam pipe it's about 3 feet long I use it because it fits all my knuckle and t bars gives more purchase had it for years gas pipe is just as strong
+slick0000 on fwd you will need to drop bottom ball joint and maybe track rod end to pull the drive shaft out then it should be the same after that good luck mate
SHARPEYS WORKSHOP hi mate thanks it fell out in my hand. Problem was the nay just about to begin when I started drivers side. The Torx bit snapped clean off in the head off the bolt. Stuck now 😭🙈
SHARPEYS WORKSHOP £50 paid a garage to remove it. Probably took them less than 20 mins. Nevermind a lesson learnt. I'll have to find out how they did it. Got a new torx bit on way. This time not a 3/8 but 1/2 probably where I went wrong. I'm wondering if proper impact ones that are 78 mm would do the job? Just when I used the 125mm ones they seemed excessively long.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 91 | คู่เอก "คมอาวุธ vs อเล็กเซย์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/V0RkEfYFsgM/mqdefault.jpg)
Wow, so many videos that are absolutely no help with no narration, crappy camera work and missing out useful information. Not this guy, this is a simple but awesome video, great narration, great camera view and didn’t miss anything I needed to know. What a breath of fresh air finding this guy 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼well done Sir
Been in the motor trade since the age of 16 now 34. Most of done several hundred sets of pads and discs on transits over the years. I tried your way today for the 1st time... Jesus it saved some time and effort splitting the hub. Top marks! 10/10!
+stu0500 thank you very much for your kind comment much appreciated
Ha ha, nice one, me too, and I'm 47 mate, sometimes, someone else just sees things that bit different to how we see it, and when you see it, you think, why the hell didn't I think of that, it's so simple. lol
And kudos on admitting it, not everyone would. I try to live by the ancient Chinese proverb of "To ask may be a moment's shame, but to not ask and remain ignorant, is a lifetime shame" It never hurts to admit that you don't know something, and you might even learn something new, always cool.
@@SHARPEYSWORKSHOP. Hi. I’ve just watched both videos and that’s how I will go about replacing my discs, so thanks very much.
Top of my job list is to replace my notchy/ leaky stearing rack. Will I need to remove the subframe do you think or just slacken it off to lower it perhaps ? I’ve just bought a Haynes manual for the Mk 7 and there is no mention of rack replacement, so I’m quite disappointed there.
Any tips much appreciated. Thanks.
Edit: The Haynes Manual has a paragraph about “ Stearing Gear”….not Rack !! And no pictures😳. There’s no mention of the subframe, and from the steering wheel to the universal joint/flexible couple onto the rack itself , there appears to be a “steering column intermediate shaft” which slides upwards to separate from the rack. Bobs your Uncle….I hope.
Good video showed me everything I needed. And you didn't over talk. Perfect. Keep up the good work
very simple and concise video. congratulations from 🇵🇹
Just doing these for the first time on a transit today. Thanks for the informative vid. Spot on.
Great, simple, not overly complicated video. Many thanks.
Many thanks for the video! I've just ordered 5 x M10 130mm bolts, hopefully this will do the trick!
Thanks again!
liked the way you retracted the piston without the specific tool . they're not exactly cheap. doing pads and discs at home looks easy enough to do.thanks for the video
+ken johnson thanks yes the front pads are pretty easy it's the back ones you have to wind back
+SHARPEYS WORKSHOP I'll bear that in mind about the rear.hope one day you upload more videos on replacing transit components.
+TPlinks XL cheers yes whenever I need to do some work to my van I will be uploading them it's looking like I my have to replace rear axle oil seal in a few weeks
Looked at a few videos on disc replacement and yours is definitely the best. Thanks for the time and effort you put I to making the video for people like me and others 👍
3:10 You can do it from the front, it's easier.
4:23 The 5 bolts that hold the disc are stretch bolts, they must be changed every time.
Copper grease is a bad idea, locktite must be applied if you don't buy new bolts that already have locktite on them.
Thanks for the video.
Brilliant video again, well explained, good clear picture , i been belting the hell out of my brake disc today, and got no where ! the M10 bolt idea is great, i will be looking through my many tins of bolts for 3 M10 bolts first thing tomorrow ! all this hassle just to drive in a lower ball joint, ! awful idea having the joint pressed in to the hub carrier, who ever thought of that !! If you have a video of replacing a lower ball joint that would be well worth seeing, i spent hours trying to press the new one in from under the van with no success , even pre heating the casting made no difference, so probably going to have to take it down to the local garage and get them to press it in, probably for £20 extra as well !!!!
Brilliant and you made it look so simple, Genius. I have had to do it a few times. Great help...cheers
No nonsense and informative, works for front wheel drive too if you drop bottom ball joint and pull strut outward to remove drive shaft.
Excellent video, just what was needed.
Much prefer the calm and collected style of presentation over a large portion of other youtubers covering the same subject. Subscribed and hoping for more quality content in the future :)
+Charly Chimpo thank you for the nice comment iam just starting a new channel "sharpeys garage" where I will be posting all my car and van repairs this channel is going to to be mostly woodwork etc thanks for the support
After 5 hours of NOT getting the hub to separate on my transit tomorrow, we are going to try your way tomorrow. I only wish I’d found your video earlier rather than the ones saying “keep hitting it with a hammer” as it just wouldn’t budge
Great to see someone that knows what there doing top job bud
You have saved me a major ball ache at work tomorrow 👍
Excellent I love old school you've saved me having to buy a stupid £160 tool when 3 bolts do the same job.
+slick0000 thanks mate glad it helped
Thanks for sharing this video. Just tackled the job on my transit. The tip with the long M10's to drive out hub works a treat.
Hope you don't mind me adding this........Mine is fwd so anyone doing theirs has the added removal of the driveshafts, just undo and remove the long bolt through the front lower wishbone bush, slacken off the rear bush mounting bolt and swing the whole lot out and this gives room to withdraw the driveshaft from the rear of the hub, zip tie it out the way and the rest is the same as the video. I also had the added job of 1 (there's always 1) of those T50 bolts rounding off the head despite hammering in etc and going easy! I ran an 8mm drill bit into it and then hammered the T50 into that, it cuts its own socket and gripped enough to get it undone and out. Hopefully this may help someone out. Thanks again for sharing this video, much appreciated!
Thank you very much, had heard about people struggling with these ! But as always "it's easy when you know how" 👍
M
subscribed a long time ago when u released the nursery video still looking good pal... still amazes me just how much you can do from old rubbish...
Stay tuned mate got a garden bench makeover on the way even amazed myself with this one
Great video. But one big noo u never grease any bolt treads on a brake or suspension. U clean them and some parts need treadlock on them. Grease on treads wil make them come undone after some time. And u need to say goodby to copper grease whit modern cars.
Thanks for the informative no-nonsense video .Great job .
In the last year of a four year apprenticeship. Transits are a bread & butter for our garage. Been wanting a way to take this part out without smashing the back of the disk like some sort of caveman. Which is what all the techs at my garage do. However i feel if the brake-disk is all i'm wanting to replace then smashing the whole thing damages the bearing on the way off. I spend half an hour making up these bolts. The other techs laughed at me right up until the bearing/flange fell off without a single hammer blow. Then it was like a showed the cavemen how to make fire. I was a god for the rest of the day.😂
where is the speed sensor located on the 6sp RWD transmission on Ford Transit LWB 2012 T155 2.2L?
Van goes into limp mode at 40mph with TCS dash light flashing. Diagnosed as wiring/faulty VSS, because (when goes into limp mode) all 4 wheel speed sensors report speed but VSS reports no data (0 mph).
Great how to video , I've been putting off doing mine but watching your video has inspired me to do them , what I'm not looking forward to is doing the back drums and shoes........👍
how long did thay tack you to do them
Sharpey it's Kyle Wood lad off market cheers for video mate helped out loads
Just about to do mine, Your vid is appreciated.
Hello great vid how did you take the bearing out
Is this for cargo or connect? I have a diesel 2015 cargo 150 that I need do the rotors and pads on
Love the video sir any chance you can say socket spanner size when you working on the van as I only have a small tool kit and had to go and get that socket that had gone missing from the set 👍
Brilliant video, however by inserting the bolts through the back it broke the bearing so the hub popped out but has left the casing of the bearing in the hub carrier!! Bum!!😂
Excellent video. Are 5 Lug hubs and 6 lug hubs interchangeable ?
Вариант тоже имеет право на жизнь. Удачи вам.
The best video on youtube well done 👍
This is the best video nice plain speaking
Nice video, just what I was looking for thanks 👍
is the transit mk6 fwd thanks
wat a brilliant video ... clever seperating it with the bolts many thanks top man.....
Brilliant that was a good help thank you
hi mate great video my transit is in the garage right now getting this done but the torx bolts are knackered w?
Great video. I have to replace mine today. Will copy your method. Thanks a lot Bud.
+themidnightrunner no problem mate just make sure you insert the torx into the head of the bolts well .They round of real easy good luck buddy
Top video! Just wondering if the FWD models are very similar, have mine to do along with wheel bearings and balljoints!
hi I think fwd are the same but the centre spline will have the driveshaft on the back but if your doing the ball joints as well shouldn't be a problem good luck
Thanks for this, very helpful.
+user12345 no problem glad it helped
Perfect dude 👍
Careful with your hub remove, last thing you want is to snap a bolt in there, just drop the hub on the ground lol
Hi is this a rear wheel drive or front wheel drive as in the vid it shows no drive shafts do these need to be removed if so
Hi Martin yes bud this is a rwd and yes you will need to drop bottom ball joint and pop drive shaft out of hub good luck
have to replace front and back on my mrk7 transit,i will use this method,great tip thanks
Just tried on my Mk7 today, be warned cause they gave me the wrong fucking disc brakes, I needed ones with an 8mm thread instead of 10mm
great vid all key points shown , easy to follow cheers
+zeddytd thanks mate
Any chance of you doing a video for disc and pad replacement for a 2014 ford transit custom SWB. Back and front. Can’t find one anywhere. Cheers
+Bob Tolhurst hi Bob I don't think I'll get chance to work on anything that new sorry mate but if it's rear wheel drive the procedure should be similar really sorry I can't help mate
I have a 2015 custom. Watched the video took the front wheel drivers side off to replace disc and pads. But I could not get the hub off as the disc is behind it. The disc and hub are separated but as I say can't get the disc off due to the hub in the way. Gave up and put it back together. What do you have to do to get the front discs off?
+Wayne Stocker hi Wayne if it's the same as mine you will need a long torx t50 to go through the holes in the hub there should be five of them but if it's front wheel drive I would probably take it to a garage if I where you It can be a nightmare
To make life easier, an impact gun would make things easier
great video. some cracking tips there. grinding the bolts down to save on winding in. crafty ;)
+scooterboy67 owt for an easy life that's me lol
Brilliant step by step, helped me out no end, top job m8. 👊
+stevepowers020880 thanks mate glad it helped
Thanks for the video, now i know what i need to tackle the job before doing it, cheers matey ;-)
Hi can you tell me what tool I need to remove the hub? I got the caliper off and the bolts off from the rotar but couldn't get the ones inside. Can you tell me what I need to get them out? Thanks
Hi i think the bolts your talking about are torx t50 cheers paul
@@SHARPEYSWORKSHOP once I've removed them t50's will the hub and rotar pull right off?
@@SHARPEYSWORKSHOP also will they slide right off the drive shaft? I've given up so far and put it all back together lol
Hi buddy I got the 3 bolts however they are very tight i don't way to snap them in do you have any advice please? Thanks
Hi buddy they shouldn't be tight it could be the treads are very rusty inside or full of debris I would use plenty of wd40 to try and clean the treads if that doesn't work I would say the threads are damaged so you might have to find a way to remove the hub without the bolts sorry buddy that's the best I can come up with good luck
Hi Sohail, I have just attempted the job following Sharpeys video which just like your comment the rust in the threads is so bad on mine i dare not insert the bolts. How did you overcome this matter? Fairly urgent reply would be appriciated regards Chris
Brill. Will help loads when I come to do my transit
Glad it helps Danny I've got another channel sharpeys garage which I put all my car and van repairs on if you fancy a look cheers buddy
hi mate brill video! just wondering if this is the mk6 transit as I'm going to attempt mine soon. Cheers.
+JoshIGGY hi mate its a 2007 new shape I've lost track of the mk they brought that many out lol
They sure have. looks almost identical. The bolts to split the disc idea should still apply. nice one :)
Really helpful. Save much of time and money . Great thank you fir that.
Best video.Thank you
great stuff, what year van?
So does this affect the wheel bearing? My mot tester said they are a right pain to do.
My 2014 custom needs new front disks and wishbones, it’s done 80k now so wondering if I should do wheelbearings anyway while it’s apart even though they are still fine.
+1949bug hi buddy once the hubs off the bearings need to be pressed out as far as I know but don't buy cheap bearings they don't last 5 mins if you can't afford decent bearings leave the ones you've got good luck buddy
SHARPEYS WORKSHOP
Thanks mate
I’ve learnt over the years, there’s. Reason genuine parts are more expensive and that’s because you get what you pay for.
Fantastic video , very helpful, love your style 👍 . Any one know torque setting of the 36mm hub nut of this front wheel on a rear wheel drive mk7 transit same as this one, is it the same as fwd as they are around the 450nm mark after a rotation tightening sequence apparently , but this been a dummy drive shaft im not to sure. thanks
Good man yer'self Sharpey.!
Thanks for the tips.
Thanks for posting now i know what i am up against.But mines FWD.
Hi buddy it's pretty much the same mate just drop bottom ball joint and track rod end to pull the drive shaft out good luck buddy
Thanks.
wise man mines FWD too, did you sort it?
No not yet, still doing welding.But love the van so will do it.
Nice Job Fella, Just subbed ya, that makes doing my transit look a lot easier.
Cheers Baz.
+moodyjeep hope it helps you mate thanks for the sub cheers
Thank you very much. Great info and instruction.
Hi Paul, i hope this does'nt sound silly , Any idea where i might those bolts you used to get the disc off.
Cheers Paul, Baz.
+moodyjeep hi Barry I got them from wicks mate but screwfix and toolstation sell them as well mate
very throrough job... only one hiccup was to check the sliding caliper pins if they need more grease inside those top and bottom dust boots, otherwise, thumbs up!
+Earl A. Thank you very much
Yes very useful video. Would this be a similar procedure for Transits MK7 with twin rear wheels as the front hubs look deeper
A great video watching more
Hi mate, another question. My owners manual says to tighten the retaining nut and bolts in 5 stages (with rotating the hub 5 times in between each). Is this what you did, or did you have just 1 setting of torque and tighten it to that measurement? Cheers
+Travis Smit hi mate no I just tightened the up alternatively then went round them all to double check but I am not a mechanic probably best to follow manual cheers
Cheers mate, I'm going to do it today. Thanks for the replies
Hi Paul, things didn't go to plan unfortunately. A stud stripped, that connects the hub to the knuckle. Have to try and make a plan tomorrow somehow.
Quick question on something else - the torque setting to tighten the front wheel spindle retaining nut is 310 lbs/ft (420 Nm). Does this sound right?? My torque wrench goes to 150 lbs/ft
I mean the disc-to-hub flange bolt (connects the hub and rotor)
+Travis Smit hi mate I don't know the torque setting mate I just used a long bar .as for striping the the bolts if it's the torx make sure you tap it in with a hammer they are so easy to strip
Hi mate, great video! My owners manual says I need to buy a new retaining nut and washer, as well as new bolts to secure to the hub. I've already spent so much on all the parts and tools needed that I really don't want to waste money on something that isn't necessary. What are your honest thoughts? Replace or use same ones if they seem fine? Cheers
+Travis Smit hi again I didn't buy new nuts or bolts and my seems to be fine however in this instance I would say use your own judgement cheers paul
i own a mk6 24 bus when on the brakes peddle bounces like its using the abs but abs light on dash is not showing up this started after new bearings disks and pads could this be a caliper fault
+TheCitroenman1 hi mate I don't think it would be your calipers sounds like a sensor but to be honest I don't know much about abs sorry mate
thanks
if you can feel a judder through the pedal when you apply the brakes while moving its most probably a warped disc or disc not seated properly
+Nick Reeves I would think a warped disc mate
What size and length were those modified bolts you used to push the disc and bearing out? My new bearing and discs aren't spinning true
I think they where M10 100mm long if the discs aren't true it could be some muck at the back of the disc good luck buddy
SHARPEYS WORKSHOP thanks, just seen the text in the video. My van is FWD so slightly more work to do. Scarey
Yes bud fwd is abit more involved but basically the same I think
Is it lazy to do? but wouldn't it save the hassle by just getting a new hub flange and bearing to go with that disc 🤔
It probably would, but at your own expense.
just watching through this video again and I'm wondering what type of hose you have.looks a nice handy bit of kit to have.
+ken johnson hi ken iam trying to remember which hose your referring to is it in this video or a different one let me know and I'll try and help cheers paul
+SHARPEYS WORKSHOP it's the red one that you took the large nut off with
+ken johnson right I see it's just a peice of steam pipe it's about 3 feet long I use it because it fits all my knuckle and t bars gives more purchase had it for years gas pipe is just as strong
+SHARPEYS WORKSHOP thanks for that.i'll be sure to get a length.cheers.
Ken.
great video helped me big time
Great stuff, ready to have a go myself now , thank you
Good video thank you Sir.
Brilliant wee video
well done mate great video
thanks, great job, like the hub extractor trick!
Great advise thanks
What an excellent video. Precise and to the point.
Good video mate really helpful thanks
Fantastic job
I don't get it. If you don't grind the balls down then when you put them into the T50 holes are then your just bolting them back up
I always check disc run out
You are incredible! Great work :)
NOTE: You don't have to remove HUB nut if you're not going change the CENTRE bearing.
How do you get the disk off then, its bolted to the back of the hub?
excellent no nonsense , thankyou
+C55555 J55555 hope it helps mate cheers
VERY GOOD VIDEO ,HELPFULL
Thank you
Thank you Sharpey.
Great videos. Thanks, much appreciated!
Nice job!
Simpley the best. Nice video
Done us proud there kid. Ya can ay a job down our garage
+gavin riley cheers gavin iam a bit to old school for modern stuff lol
What a nice bloke 👍🏼
Thanks daz
Great video buddy 👍🏻👍🏻
Damn it just realised its rwd lol. Anyway of doing this when on a fwd?
+slick0000 on fwd you will need to drop bottom ball joint and maybe track rod end to pull the drive shaft out then it should be the same after that good luck mate
Lol it fell out in my hands haha. Lucky or what just hope the other side is as easy.
SHARPEYS WORKSHOP hi mate thanks it fell out in my hand. Problem was the nay just about to begin when I started drivers side. The Torx bit snapped clean off in the head off the bolt. Stuck now 😭🙈
+slick0000 sorry to here that mate hope you manage to get it done
SHARPEYS WORKSHOP £50 paid a garage to remove it. Probably took them less than 20 mins. Nevermind a lesson learnt. I'll have to find out how they did it. Got a new torx bit on way. This time not a 3/8 but 1/2 probably where I went wrong. I'm wondering if proper impact ones that are 78 mm would do the job? Just when I used the 125mm ones they seemed excessively long.
You Good Mecanic👍🙏🏼👈