Thanks for the video. I am a new home owner and need to cut a roof sheets for a small shed. I have seen so many videos to use sawzall or circular saw and thought I would have to buy either for the job. This video gave me confidence to try it with my recently bought Midwest left/right offset aviation shears.
Glad you enjoyed the video. Make sure you lube the sheers with wax before every cut. You may have better luck with aviation shears than I did. I found I needed the extra length of the long shears to make it through the ribs.
Great demo and explanation. Is there ever a recommendation to file the cut edge down? I'm looking to a install metal roofing over a 5-6' tall wood stand with the metal over hanging the front and back edge...given how sharp the cut edge is, I'm wondering if it is a practice to dull the edge to prevent the unlikely incident of a person accidentally making contact with the edge.
The safest is to bend the corners at a 45 and fold in flat. That doubles the surface on the corner edge and eliminates a point while leaving a smooth surface. Filing would not dull the edge enough. If it is the entire edge that you are worried about then you might glue some flexible trim on it
Fluke incident: I was working on a job years ago and a huge gust of wind kicked up and grabbed a sheet of this stuff off the roof before it was tacked down...it hit a 19 year-old laborer just right and literally took his arm off at the elbow. It was absolutely horrific. Potentially dangerous stuff.
I bought these exact snips to cut 29 gauge metal roofing (straight and angle cuts). Worked great for about 13-14’ and then became dull and unusable. Returned them.
I lubricate my snips with beeswax before each cut. that will get me 3 feet before i lube them again. I have done my old home with 4 valleys and 4 hips on a 12 12 roof on a single pair of snips (about 150' of cuts). beeswax is your friend but you might want to try a pair of millwalkee snips as they may be harder.
@@amys.7112 I was cutting metal today and something occurred to me about your snips getting dull so quickly. Check the tightness of the center bolt. Even though it has a spring washer mine tends to get loose. If it is loose the snips won't cut. I hope this helps.
As I pointed out in the video these hand shears compress the edge. Factory cuts shear the metal as well. Shearing minimizes raw steel edges. You should not get rusting on the edges when using any type of shear. I hope this helps.
@@kevin6856diamond cutoff blades will give you the smoothest cut. You can see me use one here installing a vent. th-cam.com/video/ggjQ1-8dspE/w-d-xo.html. I use them when a shear is not a option.
Just use a cutting disc on a angle grinder, much faster and a hell of a lot easier, unless you cutting a hole for a flue for a wiid combustion heater or vent pipe
In my video on how to install vents I use a grinder with a diamond cutoff disk as it gives a better cut than a regular abrasive blade. While using a grinder is easier it doesn't seal the edge the way shears do.
Steve you are absolutely correct. Sandals is not the proper footwear. I normally wear jeans and special grippy boots if I am on a roof. Just took time to make the video and was totally slacking.
These look like they will work the same MIDWEST Power Cutters Long Cut Snip - Straight Cut Offset Tin Cutting Shears with Forged Blade & KUSH'N-POWER Comfort Grips - MWT-6516 a.co/d/e3yohdD
I have used jig saws as well as cut off. The nice thing about snips is that it seals the edge so you don't get a rusty edge or rust stain down a valley later on.
@@xavisolis2115 white "rust" is zinc oxide. The metal before painting is plated with zinc which is a rust inhibitor. Zinc in standing water will produce zinc oxide. I have seen that where roofers bring the metal too far down in the valley. You want 4 or 5 inches of exposed valley depending on the roof pitch.
any fine bi-metal blade should work. i have power shears, diamond blades jig saws. circular saws, you name it i have tried it. this hand shear will give you a rust free edge. metal likes to dance with a jig saw. @@DavidHernandez-ue4fz
You can pick them up at Lowe's but here is a Amazon link as well www.amazon.com/Wiss-m400N-Multimaster-Compound-Action/dp/B06XCGJRSD/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=1N55LQ1I87EK2&keywords=wiss+long+offset+snips&qid=1662886572&sprefix=wiss+long+offset+snips%2Caps%2C94&sr=8-3
It will definitely work on your grip. If you need to cut 44 pieces in a day you must be doing valleys or hips as I always order straight cut to length. I flashed in a chimney yesterday and you can't beat the portability of a good pair of snips. Did all my cuts on the roof.
Thanks for the video. I am a new home owner and need to cut a roof sheets for a small shed. I have seen so many videos to use sawzall or circular saw and thought I would have to buy either for the job. This video gave me confidence to try it with my recently bought Midwest left/right offset aviation shears.
Glad you enjoyed the video. Make sure you lube the sheers with wax before every cut. You may have better luck with aviation shears than I did. I found I needed the extra length of the long shears to make it through the ribs.
Thanks for the tip!! 🎉🎉
Thank you sir, very helpful vid!😉
You are quite welcome
Thank you - excellent video and very helpful..
Glad you enjoyed it.
Thanks for the video! Time to get cuttin!
Yeah who would of thought that a 10 dollar pair of snips would do better than a power shear. Glad you like the video.
Great demo and explanation. Is there ever a recommendation to file the cut edge down? I'm looking to a install metal roofing over a 5-6' tall wood stand with the metal over hanging the front and back edge...given how sharp the cut edge is, I'm wondering if it is a practice to dull the edge to prevent the unlikely incident of a person accidentally making contact with the edge.
The safest is to bend the corners at a 45 and fold in flat. That doubles the surface on the corner edge and eliminates a point while leaving a smooth surface. Filing would not dull the edge enough. If it is the entire edge that you are worried about then you might glue some flexible trim on it
@@honeybeehomesteading Thank you for the reply!
Helpful video. Thanks. I noticed you are using the tips more at the ribs to get down in the valleys. Great content.
Thank you!!
Your welcome.
Fluke incident: I was working on a job years ago and a huge gust of wind kicked up and grabbed a sheet of this stuff off the roof before it was tacked down...it hit a 19 year-old laborer just right and literally took his arm off at the elbow. It was absolutely horrific. Potentially dangerous stuff.
Yes when I did roofing I didn't allow anyone on the ground for that reason. I had a piece slip and sink a foot into compact ground
Yay. Im a girl and this looks so much more doable than i imagined🎉
Make sure you keep the center nut tight and use some beeswax or some other wax to lube the blades between cuts. Good luck
I bought these exact snips to cut 29 gauge metal roofing (straight and angle cuts). Worked great for about 13-14’ and then became dull and unusable. Returned them.
I lubricate my snips with beeswax before each cut. that will get me 3 feet before i lube them again. I have done my old home with 4 valleys and 4 hips on a 12 12 roof on a single pair of snips (about 150' of cuts). beeswax is your friend but you might want to try a pair of millwalkee snips as they may be harder.
@@honeybeehomesteading good to know about the beeswax if I need to use something similar in the future.
@@amys.7112 I was cutting metal today and something occurred to me about your snips getting dull so quickly. Check the tightness of the center bolt. Even though it has a spring washer mine tends to get loose. If it is loose the snips won't cut. I hope this helps.
@@honeybeehomesteading thank you for thinking of me! I returned the snips and am done cutting metal for now, but useful to know for the future!
Th answer is right there in the corner of the video. Use your Circular saw with the blade flipped backwards. Works like a charm.
Yes I have tried that along with a diamond blade and power shear. None of those methods seal the edge like a metal shear though.
Mai i know why you dont use angle grinder or shears nibblers etc? What to do to prevent rust on the edges?
As I pointed out in the video these hand shears compress the edge. Factory cuts shear the metal as well. Shearing minimizes raw steel edges. You should not get rusting on the edges when using any type of shear. I hope this helps.
@@honeybeehomesteading thanks legend fir the reply how about metal circular saw? Are they safe against rusting? I know they are a bit expensive tho?
@@kevin6856diamond cutoff blades will give you the smoothest cut. You can see me use one here installing a vent. th-cam.com/video/ggjQ1-8dspE/w-d-xo.html. I use them when a shear is not a option.
Just use a cutting disc on a angle grinder, much faster and a hell of a lot easier, unless you cutting a hole for a flue for a wiid combustion heater or vent pipe
In my video on how to install vents I use a grinder with a diamond cutoff disk as it gives a better cut than a regular abrasive blade. While using a grinder is easier it doesn't seal the edge the way shears do.
Yowzah safety shoes too!
Steve you are absolutely correct. Sandals is not the proper footwear. I normally wear jeans and special grippy boots if I am on a roof. Just took time to make the video and was totally slacking.
M400N Snips have been discontinued...any other recommendations?
These look like they will work the same MIDWEST Power Cutters Long Cut Snip - Straight Cut Offset Tin Cutting Shears with Forged Blade & KUSH'N-POWER Comfort Grips - MWT-6516 a.co/d/e3yohdD
@@honeybeehomesteading Thanks
We use jig saws, it's loud but way faster than snips.
I have used jig saws as well as cut off. The nice thing about snips is that it seals the edge so you don't get a rusty edge or rust stain down a valley later on.
@@honeybeehomesteading Makes sense..have any idea why some metal roofing gets white rust?
@@xavisolis2115 white "rust" is zinc oxide. The metal before painting is plated with zinc which is a rust inhibitor. Zinc in standing water will produce zinc oxide. I have seen that where roofers bring the metal too far down in the valley. You want 4 or 5 inches of exposed valley depending on the roof pitch.
@@honeybeehomesteadingwhat kind of blade you used with jig saws(I new working in construction)iam a mechanic,lol😅
any fine bi-metal blade should work. i have power shears, diamond blades jig saws. circular saws, you name it i have tried it. this hand shear will give you a rust free edge. metal likes to dance with a jig saw. @@DavidHernandez-ue4fz
May I know where I can get this
You can pick them up at Lowe's but here is a Amazon link as well www.amazon.com/Wiss-m400N-Multimaster-Compound-Action/dp/B06XCGJRSD/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=1N55LQ1I87EK2&keywords=wiss+long+offset+snips&qid=1662886572&sprefix=wiss+long+offset+snips%2Caps%2C94&sr=8-3
I use a nibbler becuase it's faster, easier and distorts the material less.
I used a power shear but I had trouble with the ribs. Good to know that nibblers work.
haha now do it 44 times today man , lests go
It will definitely work on your grip. If you need to cut 44 pieces in a day you must be doing valleys or hips as I always order straight cut to length. I flashed in a chimney yesterday and you can't beat the portability of a good pair of snips. Did all my cuts on the roof.
Use a plywood bade reversed.
I have used carbide blades reversed. Only the shears prevent rust on the edges is what I have found.
Hire a nibbler, if you have a lot to do….