You can cut metal roofing and siding with a wood blade. It is easy.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ม.ค. 2022
- It is easy to cut metal siding and roofing with a wood blade. I have done it many times by simply reversing and old wood blade on your circular saw. In this video I cut through 4 sheets at one time using my skilsaw. I was cutting this metal for use on my spring hill campground I am developing.
@FlanaganHomestead
This is amazing, thanks for sharing! I feel confident trying this now. Very helpful!
Very useful thanks. Good to emphasise reversing the blade at the end or it could result in an interesting experience!
WOW, didn't know you can use a wood blade. I am going to try this. Was dreading using the grinder.
If you flip the metal over the surface is much flatter to slide the saw across.
Also, if you saw from the backside you avoid scratching the painted metal surface on the front with your saw and the blade teeth cut front to the back which means the lip on the metal also goes to the back and doesn't show as much.
Exactly. Glad this was added
@@mjikerd
Yes that is very good.
in addition though, it is best to remove any blurring. Not only is it less likely to cut, the burr will rust much more readily, and that can stain surrounding areas and promote additional edge rusting.
Cut edges when "cleaned up", on Aluminium/Zinc coated steel sheets, has a galvanic effect which greatly reduces corrosion to the inner steel layer.
Good video. I have the same saw. Had it for 30 years
Great video exactly what i needed
Thanks you saved me dollars and time
Great idea. Thank you!
Excellent video! Thanks!!!
That's awesome!
Very handy tip , thank you
Thanks for the video! Love the name, Grew up with Flanagan's in Prior lake Minnesota, I named my son Brogan, after their son Brogan
Thanx brother! I've been battling with this stuff for years doing pole barn construction using a jigsaw (metal blade) with a second person holding the piece being cut, WHAT A NIGHTMARE! Is was really the only part of the job I never EVER looked forward to!!! Where were you 20 years ago when i still had my hearing and my hands were without multiple scars? Lol! Thank you! Thank you!
Good stuff.
Thank you!!!..I have a very similar job ahead of me....will cut three 20ft sheets in have then rip one in length in half. This video took a lot of worry off me! Lol
Subbed. brilliant idea! Thanks!
Thanks I’m gonna try this
Effective and saving money!
Thanks so much for your video! I'm working on a metal shed, but I must cut some of the metal sides. Saved time and money!
Excellent good luck on your project
Sweet. Thanks.
Awesome hack! Thanks for sharing.
Impressive! Thank you, I will definitely use this in the future. Wow, what an awesome deal on the roofing, too. Sounds like it was really worth what you went through to make it work out!
it did work out well for me.
Really good idea. Will try that. Well done from Cyprus
Very nice! Appreciate it, greetings from Missouri!!! 👍✌
Thank you
Thank you. I will be doing this later today ;)
Thanks for your tip
You just saved $60 me dollars
Very good, thanks very much.
Great circular saw, old rip blade reuse tips here FH ! This works for corrugated pvc and fiberglass also !
Although expensive new, the best cutter is with a continuous diamond mason blade !
Safety first, always wear protective glasses, be gowned and gloved up ! Safety doesn't cut it with just surfer jams on and flip flops !
Good tips, thanks
Diamond blade cost about 13 bucks and you don’t get hit with all of those flying pieces of metal.
I got myself in a situation where a good customer wasn't thrilled with what was the final reveal of already installed metal, I needed to lose about 8" and couldn't figure out how I was going to cut it inplace. Your method gave me enough confidence that I think with my lightweight 24v skill saw I can make a straight line across the ends of those 6 pieces of metal
Two things one I was successful Cutting the metal as described, I cut six pieces at one time I did line all the pieces up and then I put a sheet metal screw through the waste portion of what I was cutting off. This held that in place worked well. The second thing somebody asked previously if the blade on the Skil saw was usable after cutting metal the answer is no not even close to being usable. The blade is Trashed as soon as you cut metal there is no going back
I was using a 24 V kobalt Skilsaw Work very well
@@ericandrews5590 thanks for sharing how this worked for you. I like holding the sheets together with a screw.
I'm about to try out my 24V Kobalt skillsaw too. I've used a corded before though.
Thanks, was wondering, metal roof it is for the coop
Helluva driveway bro, I love Washington
That’s gonna be faster than that dewalt tin snips shit I got.
This is good in an emergency situation. Not only is it loud and pieces of hot metal fly everywhere, the blade goes to crap after 15 feet of cutting. That's my experience, but thanks for the tip because I was able to complete my small job.
I have cut lots of metal before switching blades . Maybe you never had the right ones to start with . I used small tooth carbide blade that I would have left over from cutting finish cabinet grade wood with . Or if I never had any left overs I would buy a new one . Less chance of loosing a carbide tooth of off a small tooth than a large tooth blade made for cutting framing lumber with .
Spray the cut edge with silicone to prevent rusting when using a circular saw blade
good advice
This is very helpful and informative and maybe you can tell me could I cut heavier metal roofing panels like construction grade panels? I know you can’t answer everybody but if you could take a look at my question and maybe give me an answer it would be very helpful for me. Thanks again for the information.
I don’t have a specific answer for that because I haven’t done it. You may have noticed though I was able to cut three at once. I would imagine this would equal commercial grade.
Nice hack to use in a pinch. But if you're going to do any amount of cutting, just get the proper blade. Blades are removable and can be swapped out in under a minute.
Lookup Project Farm's video on the best metal cutting blades.
saved me some cash thanks
You can do the same with your chain saw, put the chain on backwards
I've done this method several times. I've lost the carbide tips of the blade, so be sure an use an old one.
Also little bits of glitter-like metal will be everywhere so, if you want to not have it on the ground put down a tarp for a drop cloth, or cut over cement that you can sweep it on.
I've also used an angle grinder with the diamond coated steel metal blades, which are more expensive than the ones that wear out, but safer and last a long time.
I did some walls and ceilings in my house with old barn tin.
I'm about to cut a bunch more for craft projects and am trying to NOT have to buy a tin nibbler.
I'm off grid and try to use my battery powered stuff, or lower voltage AC powered too, because my breaker will blow when the voltage spikes my bigger skill saw boggs down under load.
Good insights
what did you do for the corners could you share how you finished them?
@jbbolts I don't know what you mean exactly by corners. I did mostly straight cuts across the tin and the tin lengthwise (rip cuts). Now to get rid of burs (Jagged edges), I would use an angle grinder with a grinding wheel.
@@jbbolts actually I forgot but I have used a jigsaw before and those work okay. You can do shapes and stuff but expect to lose a few blades.
The diamond is meant for tiles concrete stone&masonry dry&wet cutting not really for steel it will get out of trouble&through it easy enough if u were in a bit of pickle but a nibbler going to give better useability&results but truly the best finish cuts are done by good quality sheet metal snips a pair of lefts pair rights pair of straight &theres offset right n lefts
That's about $500 worth where I live.
Tough as hell old saw, they are serious work horses.
How do you smooth the edges after you cut them? And so you treat the cuts with anything to prevent rust?
In my used in this video the cut edge was going up underneath the ridge cap on a roof so there was no need to do extra smoothing. If I do when it’s smoother one quick pass with an angle grinder takes off the bumps
@@FlanaganHomestead Thank you for responding. I'm thinking of covering a flat topped open trellis pergola with the metal sheets. Just didn't know if I should treat the edges or not.
Valid point, I've never treated the edges or know anyone who has. Would help near salt water.
old blades can be sharpened also.
I need ear protection just for this clip.
Yes, I definitely had mine in.
Nice ! Does this ruin the blade ?
I use my old wood blades that have been replaced to cut metal. I would not expect a good clean wood cut again with it…. But I haven’t tried.
I was told yesterday that this method (way I usually do it) would cause the sheet metal to heat up, rust, causing early decay..? Anyone know if this is true?
Theoretically this is true. I have cuts I made three years ago that still look good and we are in a wet climate.
@@FlanaganHomestead thanks!
What about a Reciprocating saw cutting tail pipe? With wood blade … I’m thinking same results..
Haven’t thought about that. May work but there are some nice cheap metal blades for a reciprocating saw. Fine teeth that will make a nice cut.
Yes!! I went you the Harbor freight and just got the metal blades.. I did attempt to try the blade for wood .. Works but wore out quickly…
This guy sounds like Casey Affleck
Yeah ...He does.
what about the heat of the saw causing rust?
I don't think heat causes rust
I'm pretty sure that's painted galvanized
What does it look like in a year when the rust sets in? Sheers have been the go to method for decades and they are battery powered now. I can only see this being justified if it has to be done and no tin snips in sight. For a client how going to have rust next year, not on my reputation!
First of all this was only done a year and a half ago, so time will tell. I live in a very wet area of the country and no rust issues yet. If you are a contractor you are probably bound to manufactures recommendations to keep from voiding the warranty
Title should be "how NOT to cut metal roofing"
Why? The video seems to show a process that works well.
@hollygolightly8048
Because heat producing tools burns the protective coating of sheets, and it will rust quickly starting from the edges.
Any decent tradesman know that angle grinders and the like are PROHIBITED on galvanized steel. Shears, nibblers, and hand scissors are the only acceptable tools...
I am sure it was mentioned below that doing this causes excess heat that not only breaks down the paint over time but also increase weakness to the metal itself. Since this will be covered over by ridge vents, L channel, drip edge ... etc (most vulnerable areas) it may not be seen but it will tear it up over time. Just read the manufacturers warranties and best practices and they clearly say, not to do this very thing. Nippers, cutters are the safest way to go. And cheap! The heat can be extreme. Also use some dense foam under the roofing panel if your going to do that for safety and more accuracy. Your killing me here.
Oh wait, it is for your own personal use... yeah your fine.
Great for vinyl siding though.
Maybe you don't have to turn the blade around?
Don't have to cut it cuts smoother that way.
Anybody that has worked with tin has uses a circular saw.
Most modern blades cut steel and wood in case a nail is hit. Also, those glasses do not cover your eyes properly, should wear impact googles. Glasses are light eye protection only.
Thanks for your added information.
theres nothing the worm drive cant do!
I’m going to take this up a notch and cut some strips of roofing to finish the eves on a little cabin I’m building for my daughter. I’m going to cut them on my table saw, after I get all the dust cleaned out from underneath it so I don’t start a fire! Anybody see a reason why this won’t work?
Good idea cleaning sawdust first. I like it. Want to hear how it goes
@@FlanaganHomestead It went well! I installed an old Craftsman blade backwards and started cutting. Well over 100 feet of cutting and literally no sparks, a few, like I maybe noticed 10 total. I have some good push blocks that worked well for keeping the roofing on the blade. One that I could go directly over the blade, which I did quite a bit. I wore a face shield and glad I did, lots of “stuff” comes back at you! Probably the loudest thing I ever did, think torture chamber or being behind a jet while it’s taking off, painfully noisy with just ear plugs. I got some muffs on too but it was difficult with my face shield/hard hat setup but they made it tolerable. For the types of cuts I was making (10 ft length wise), it worked much better than the circular saw. I wouldn’t want to do it everyday though, I’d invest in some kind of electric nippers or shears.
@@jimbo3615 Thanks for the report on how it went. I can see how the face shield would be important on this one. The noise is always bad, especially if cutting indoors
@@FlanaganHomestead Inside definately made it worse! I kept thinking about Chewbacca (The Empire Stikes Back) when he was in the floating city and being tortured with sound. 🙂
@@jimbo3615 lol
Flip the panels over and the saw lays flat.
simple but genius, why wasn't I doing that.
Don't use a carbide blade backwards carbides tips have a tendency to fly off. Just buy a cheap steel skill saw blade and install it backwards. Having been a carpenter for over 30 years this is not a new trick.
Super helpful thank you
People need to be aware that reversing the blade means the teeth are now lifting the front of the saw up rather than pulling it down. This is far more dangerous. Shears and nibblers will round over the rust proof coating ( typ zincalume) thus sealing the edge somewhat, this cut exposes the edge and will rust sooner, especially if not treated. You'll note Diablo make no mention of using their metal blade for sheet steel for a reason.
Huh?
How does reversing the blade change the direction of rotation of the saw?
It doesn't. But the depending on tooth gullet shape by reversing the blade you create a 'ramp' for the blade to jump up on. To be honest I am amazed it cuts as clean as it appears to as it's acting more like a grinding disk in cutting action. I'm not sure all saw blades would work as well. Put it this way, if this was safe, don't you think Diablo et al would sell blades designed to cut like this?
I don’t buy it. Maybe the “ramps” could push back, but certainly not push up or cause it to “jump” up. The rotation is in a direction to pull the front of the shoe down. Your explanation seems like a weak attempt to avoid admitting that you were wrong.
Here's a hint ... wear knee pads. I'm a little older than you, and there is no way I would still be building if I didn't wear knee pads.
How to kill sheet metal!
Saw the sparks? It will rust prematurely, because you burnt the protective coating alongside the edges!
Even after cutting with shears or nibblers, application of repair paint is recommended (or even the condition of service guarantee), but this way, the heat eats the coating perpendicular to the cut, till only God knows how far. And it will scale off...
Just because something APPARENTLY works, it doesn't mean it is acceptable in, well, basically in any technical field...
Ever wondered why you haven't seen any (decent) tinsmith cutting steel with any high speed rotating cutter (angle grinder, circular saw, etc.).
On aluminium, maybe.
He cuts it without cheap hearing protection!
Wrong, I have the standard foam ear plugs in.
You Loose your warranty and make it rust where you cut...
How do you install the panels around windows and such without cuts?
@@coopjaquish you use j trim so its a hidden reveal. You can also get a product from SEM thats a rust preventative on raw cuts. Try to make your cuts where your soffits protect and where the reveal is hidden.
Don't be cheap get a steel demon .
Phon number dijiye
You can ruin your paint coating……it’s super easy 🤦🏼never cut your metal in a way that creates heated particles or burned edges. That’s what snips are for
Don't share stupid advice publicly. Metal roofing rusts and especially where it is exposed to high temperatures in the thermal exposure zone. Scissors or other mechanical cutting tools are used to avoid this.
Looks god and sometimes lasts but heats up the metal and bakes the rust proofing. This is a mickey mouse way of cutting ask ANY pro roofer they all say never use a circular saw use a shears or nibbler. You can buy a shears attachment for your drill. Why be stupid do it right
Looked pretty easy to me and this vid is not meant for a pro roofer so I won't be needing to ask one. I had to cut these 17 years ago with a purpose purchased Harbor Freight nibbler that plumb fell apart (IK, no surprise there). A terrible job with the cheap tool. I now have to do this again. I'll go Mickey Mouse this time and save time, money and, effort. A win/win/win for a non pro.
--MM
Agree, just because it is easy way out, doesn't mean you should do it.
Great video! Do us all a favor and replace your flag.
Thanks, and a new flag has been purchased since the recording of this video.
@@FlanaganHomestead great job and response time! I tried the circular hand saw with 4 sheets. It worked like a charm, thank you for the time saving advice!
If you understand metallurgy, cutting with a power saw will not only change the chemistry of the metal , but most manufacturers will not back the warranty once you have altered metal composition with heat . But I guess the lazy installer doesn’t have to watch it rust. The way he’s scratching the sheets over one another showed how much he cares.