วีดีโอ

@@JohnnyWood-i9y I will be giving them out for free at nahbe

@@eliasveloz5815 ok your first issue it getting too hot to run with the converter. You need to use the blower when you have a hot fire this will keep the stove from getting too hot which usually occurs when the fire has mostly converted to coals. For a overnight fire are tricky as what type of wood you use size of log etc all play a role but in general you want a fire not a smoldering fire to keep your chimney clean. So it is better to burn a hotter fire and build up allot of coals then add a stick or two to get some coals for the morning. As far as your converters go they are fine on the cool down side. The temp range on the cool side is to prevent them from clogging from soot. Late stage of the fire will not have any soot. If your converters to get clogged run up a hot fire just below the too hot line and then close the bypass. This will clean the. Out. Lastly I would recommend you use the blower more . I have mine on a remote. As soon as mine hits the mid range I close my bypass and turn on the fan. This will save you from having to constantly check that the fire is not getting too hot.

@ just a example if I load it up with wood over night can I leave the bypass open with no fans on even tho the temp range is to hot. Also on your video u mentioned that to leave the air vent flush with the ash try. But mine doesn’t even go more In passing the ash try.

@eliasveloz5815 no i would not recommend it as you are at risk in overfiring the stove which could warp and ruin the stove plus you are leaving a big fire unattended which is never a good idea. Also you will be loosing allot of heat that way. Also make sure you have plenty of ash in the stove as this will insulate and keep the coals till morning.what I do typically is load the stove 1 1/2 hour before bed with a full load. Burn on with the damper open fan on high. At bedtime I will have nothing but a large mound of coals. I then shut the damper and turn off the fan as my heat gauge will read middle range. This I believe is the safest way to go and you will have coals and a warm stove in the morning..side note for slower burns 1/8 from closed is what my stove is when the damper is flush with the ash pan.

@@job38four10 thanks for your lengthy reply I am sure others will appreciate it as well. I agree with you 100 percent. The foam under the cap you may want to only do only on the windy side as this will prevent wind from blowing through while also allowing your roof to breathe.

@@honeybeehomesteading { " while also allowing your roof to breathe. " } <<<<< Hence the reason for 3/4" gap between first row of eve boards and the next row of boards, the 3/4" air breathing gap is underneath the eve, not on the end metal roof peaks. But the only breathing will be done is between the whether shield and metal roof, that whether shield stuff dont breath..... I have the metal roof panels on the eve completely seal with foam and caulk, because it's a shallow roof pitch that drops about 1" in 12". If the metal roof eve panels are not sealed on a shallow pitch roof, the wind and rain will blow up under the metal roof causing rain to drip behind the eve. I want water to drip outside of eve so eve boards dont rot, I also put the paint right under the eve for longer protection..... To help keep eve boards from rotting, I no longer plumb the eve facer board, I always cut rafters at 90° on ends, that way the eve facer boards are not plumb and allows water to shed quicker, in theory........

@job38four10 cutting rafters at 90 was how it used to be done back in the Victorian days. 1/12 pitch is a mighty flat roof. Far more shallow than the roofing specs at. Where there is a will there is a way. I hope you don't live in snow country as that could get bad in a blizzard. Not on a leak issue as it seems you have that worked but but on a weight issue due to the snow load.

@@honeybeehomesteading { " cutting rafters at 90 was how it used to be done back in the Victorian days. " }<<<< I didn't know that, I thought that was my invention..... 1/12-ish..... I think I read somewhere that screw down metal roofing is suppose to have more of a pitch and 1/12 pitch should be on a standing seam roofing. It's the main reason I put down weather shield made for metal roofing. I also live in mid-coast ME where snow is or can be a issue, thats why I did not want asphalt shingles. So with my limited carpentry skill set I put up 2"x10"x 16' rough cut rafters spaced 2' on center, the joist hangers are on 1-1/2" x 10" facer eve plank, then the rafters go out 14' and sets on a rough cut 2"x6"x 6' > something wall......... This is winter 2 and I still praying everything holds up, coarse I'd feel better if I knew how much weight rough cut 2x10 rafters will hold up on a 14' span......

@job38four10 lap steel roofing like the one in the video is rated for 3/12 pitch or better. On flat roofs of around 1/12 I always went with EPDM rubber roofing. With a 50# snow load you would need those rafters to be spaced at 12 inches not 24. If your live load is 20# and your dead load is 10# then you rafters are good as you should be able to span 15 feet. This is however the minimum build plus this is just a basic number. Other factors can also affect your span such as ceiling attachment to the rafters. Most northern cities or states have there own rafter span charts with snow loads. I would start there. Good luck.

@@randyscrafts8575 honestly I did not know it was that much of a controversy. I just got tired of people telling me I installed my roof wrong when I followed the manufacturers screw schedule.

@honeybeehomesteading Been in maintenance for a lot of years. Sometimes manufacturers can be wrong and following their directions can cause the failure of their product. I say use your head and common sense. If whatever you're doing works, then go with it. Everyone has their own experience. In mine the roof screws go on the rib and regardless of manufacturers instructions. I'd never recommend roof screws on the flat but you do whatever you think is correct.

it will save you allot of time if you can run your blades through twice, also try to sharpen all of your blades so they are all the same width so you dont have to monkey with the machine for every blade.

@@honeybeehomesteading Thanks for the tip. Terveiset Suomesta.

i will counter your no with a yes

@@abdullahwazir360 your very welcome

@@dennisgarber snow bars I have seen before but it is rare that they are used in East TN. I always thought it might be better to have some type ove overrib where the snow could slide off without talking out the gutters. I know people who have lots of snow the weight becomes a issue for the roof itself. Thanks for commenting

@honeybeehomesteading without the snow bar, the snow sheered off my garage gutters. Ohio. On the house, I also extended the metal as far as I could, into the gutters, to take a little snow weight off the gutters. I have steep and not so steep roof parts.

The snow gaurd shoes look nicer. But I choose the cheaper rail, because I read they fail and leak less.

@dennisgarber I think in my next life I would design a house with large overhangs and a French drain system so I could go without gutters entirely. They are such a hassle

@honeybeehomesteading I have seen and noted that houses with double long overhangs hold paint up to 30 years with good surface preparation because of the extra shade. Probably 2x longer than single wide eaves.

@@craigquinn7887 there are many profiles of metal roofs and I have installed many on the rib as that was what was called for. The downside of through the rib has always been wind resistance and weakening of points of attachment due to thermal expansion. The metal profile in the video calls for screws on the flats but there are plenty of profiles that are designed for on the rib. From the comments here I take that no one has ever mounted screws on the flats down under. Thank you for commenting

@@royburgerbreath a much easier solution is to use the new one piece head screws. The head and the washer are one piece with a recess for the seal which is completely covered. The screw is also a larger diameter further preventing blackout while increasing holding power. If you use silicon make sure it says it is for gutter and flashing. Regular silicone contains a acid to help it bond and will damage metal roofs.

@@honeybeehomesteading The regular silicone is vVinegar (acetic acid) What kind of damage have you seen from this?

@royburgerbreath I have seen it ruin the galvanized roofing. It ate Right through the zinc and rusted badly in only about a year. I got to replace a whole roof because the brother of the owner patched the roof and used regular silicone. . So any unpainted bare metal would be a issue like the screw holes themselves. I have not seen any damage on painted because I have never used regular silicone always the gutter and flashing silicone instead.

@@honeybeehomesteading Good to know. In this case it was a painted metal roof that I used the regular silicone (that smell is VINEGAR too!) We need to make aluminum great again so We dont have these issues with METAL ROOFS.. DID you know aluminum is the 3rd most abundant element on Earth and WHY in the USA aluminum roof panels so hard to come by?? They shut off most the smelters because of 'global warming' while China turned on their aluminum smelters // Aluminum is an amazing material for roofs and does not react like the way your issue did with regular silicone

@@royburgerbreath I live close to Alcoa allot of aluminum is still smelted here. The problem with aluminum it takes a thicker sheet to achieve the same strength and 2 it has a much larger rate of thermal expansion .0000128 vs .0000072 it would be nice though as you could have a anodized panel that would look cool. He other problem is that aluminum is a reactive metal which will react with steel so you would need to address that issue.

@@michaelcrawley2359 damper only got shut to 1/4 after I had coals only. It was not my first but I hope it was my last as I have never found anything that will remove creasote from tile liners. I have replaced the wood stove and installed a stainless liner which cleans well with a nylon brush.

Screws in flats don't move the way they do on the rib as the panels are able to move independently of one another. This eliminates the thermal expansion width wise leaving only the length of the panel to be a factor which is normally not long enough to be a factor. I have roofs 20 years old screwed in the flats with no leaks

@@honeybeehomesteading , are the screws you installed going into metal below, or into wood? If into wood, you are one of few who has had no leaks. On the other hand, if you live in AZ or NM, the point is moot. I stand by my point, if screwed into the peaks, there will be no leaks, if done correctly. You cannot tighten the screws to the point where they severely compress the rubber washer, or distort the shape of the sheetmetal peak. "Stitch screws" with butyl tape are used at all overlapping seams to seal them together. They are not left to just flap in a wind. The "stitch screws" do NOT go into the substrate below. They are used only to "stitch" the seam together. YOU ARE CORRECT that putting screws into the flats works, if the substrate is a metal purlin, as in real metal building construction. The correct number of screws, and placement of those screws, is REQUIRED to get a UL Class 90 Wind Rating on the roof installation, for insurance Company purposes. I was a superintendent on metal building construction for 5 years.

@bruceb3786 I am going into wood a minimum of 5/8 decking. Steel structures are different than wood as you don't have to worry about thermal expansion as you do when going through wood and screwing through the rib. In a all metal framed building going through the rib would be the only way I would install it. And yes I know how stitching screws work, it is all I ever use to install caps and allot of other trim. Thanks for commenting

@@honeybeehomesteading , I just know what I have seen work, and not work so well.

@bruceb3786 same here the key problem with all roof installations is getting workers that actually care. When screwing in the flats it is common to overtighten and then back out instead of replacing the screw entirely. I can't count the number of roofs I have seen that was done wrong. I replaced a brand new roof once because the installer had no idea how to screw the roof in or flash the chimney. There were leaks all over the place. Thanks for all your comments and have a merry Christmas

Well i can understand those that want to go through the ribs but you are mistaken if you think it is stronger and here is why. first you are drilling through the stongest past of the panel weakening it, second you do not have a solid surface directly under the screw and metal which will allow for more movement, three you have no redundancy at the overlap. you have one screw holding down 2 ribs where through the flat you have a screw on each side of overlapping ribs. in the event that a storm pealed a panel off going through the ribs would keep the panels together allowing for a bigger sail and lose of more panels. Through the flat the panels are independent of one another allowing for both expansion and not doing a domino effect do to wind tear off. thanks for commenting

@@gort5583 allot of the wavy roofs are self correcting on thermal expansion with the panels growing taller instead of wider. If you follow the manufacturers screw schedule you should be good

@olliemoose2020 I am not telling anyone what to do i am only telling what the manufacturer of my metal says to do. You should always follow the manufacturers screw schedule whether it is in the flats or the ribs.

Agree 100 percent about leaks. Wind on the other hand through the ribs you do not get near the wind resistance as the screws are typically weakened by thermal expansion and contraction plus with there is no redundancy where the two pieces overlap.

Even the Mennonites screw through the flat. they don't like their roofs flying off.

your substrate can be a factor there, i only use 5/8 or thicker decking as 1/2 inch doesn't provide enough grip. It also sounds like your screws are not tight enough initially as there should be no space between the deck and the metal. I have done several 12/12 pitched roofs but it also did one 16/12 and had to use a extra snatch so i could climb up. those roofs will not collect snow.

@@honeybeehomesteading Those areas that don't have a wooden frame construction have no issues. But wood is flexible. I weigh 100kgs, ad to that one meter of snow and no matter what thickness you use it will buckle. This movements is what forces the nails/screws out. It's better to use roofing tiles on wood roofs in my climate.

screws are much more about preventing wind damage. if i were you i would get more screws in that roof before you have a big storm and allot of damage

@ normally I’d agree but after this long and countless wind storms, they’re still there hanging on strong and haven’t moved an inch.. I don’t have to worry about neighbors and both would end up being caught by the surrounding trees if they did go.

I can and will see if i can get to it next week

besides being able to handle a weight load, roofing panels when screwed in on schedule act the same way as sheathing preventing racking of the structure. This is handy when building sheds using purlins

I am sorry they are forcing more ads. Whether or not a video is monetized youtube puts ads in it. It is still better than network tv which seems to devolved to more ads than content. I cant even try to watch a movie on regular tv.

not according to my specs the overlapping panel does not hold down the last rib of the previous panel. it can but if you do it that way and say a tornado rips off one panel the rest will fly off in a domino fashion. My specs have 2 screws holding down a joint rib one on each side.

Ok let me try to explain it better, screwing in the valleys allows the metal to expand and contract at the joint ribs. when you screw in the ribs you loose that "expansion joint". if you have a 75 ft wide building then you now have a 75 ft continuous piece of metal which with expansion and contraction puts leverage on those screws through the rib. As far as structural integrity goes the panel itself whey screwed on the flat becomes a rigid part of the structure. the same way that 4 x 8 sheathing works only with slightly different dimensions. going through the ribs negates the structural effect because the ribs can buckle and the flats can bow.

they have interlocking foam strips that match the contour of the roofing. i use them in high wind areas where blowing rain might make its way under the cap. the downside is that is eliminates the natural venting of the roof

Yes it is about the math, The coefficient of expansion of steel has some variability based upon the alloy of the steel used from .0000065 to .0000072 textbook wise. i found a building material site that has the coefficient for roofing panels at .0000073 which is what i am going to use. I have done one store that had a whopping 150' length. Also remember to divide you length in half as metal will expand in both directions going to the ends of the structure. For my part i find it easier to start with a 100' run with a 100 degree temp which gives .876 or just a hair over 7/8. I use this number at it is easy to remember and i can do most of the calculations in my head. we have a 20 to 30 degree temp change on a daily basis so we will go with the average of 25 degrees. .876 /4 x .75 = .16425 which is close to 3/16 which in my opinion is way to much movement. this much movement will cause the screws to loosen or the holes to wallow out when screwed through the ribs. this of course is not a typical case more on average would be a 50 ft wide home which would yield about 1/16 which is still too much over a long time line. But if your width of metal is half that then i cant see thermal expansion being a issue in my climate. Desert climates are a whole other bag where temps can change from 50 to 75 degrees. glad i dont live there

You should follow the screw schedule aka instructions from the manufacturer otherwise you could void your warranty. this is the screw schedule from my manufacturer and they don't leak when done right.

@honeybeehomesteading ok fellow beekeeper. I put steel on my dad's house(looks exactly like yours on the peaks) my brother put the same on our grandmother's porch. Guess who put screws in the flats and who didn't (worried about deforming the ridges)and which one leaked? Oh not right away but after a few years in this hot sun those gaskets dry out.

@Maputi_na_Kalabaw how many years? Those seals are pretty durable if they are properly installed. Too tight and they deform and split. Not enough and they get too much sun exposure and split. I bet they were not tight enough. The washers will bond with the metal if they have enough pressure. I have had to use a chisel to remove them on old roofing.

@honeybeehomesteading 2 on the porch my brother did and 27 on the house I did. People tend to drive the screws too tight

@@Maputi_na_Kalabaw yea too tight and you make the steel washer turn into a funnel. The screw will leak even if the washer is ok.

screwing the center of the flat is not correct as you want to be next to the rib. It seems to me that that you are not using many screws if you are adding stitch screws every 4 ft on joints. the butyl tape is a good idea but i don't see why you are using stich screws instead of 2 inch screws if you are already going through the rib or are you going through the flat?

@honeybeehomesteading oh no we were going roughly an inch or so from the rib on 2 ft purlins with a stitch screw every 4 ft down the rib

are you in a high wind area? I ask because i never use stich screws through the rib and none of my roofs have ever had a issue even in some 80 mph winds. If i was coastal area i think i would build a roof more like a air plane with rivets everywhere lol.

@@keepcalmandenjoythedecline you are correct about the stiffness of the ribs. If your roof has lots of sheets expansions will stress the screws and the holes.if it is done on the rib. Screwing in the valley allows the metal to move at the overlap reducing the the stress on the screws by limiting it to the length of the panel vs the width of the whole building.

The same goes for screwing in the flat don't overtighten and it will not leak

I will prove you wrong about those washers on a upcoming video. They last

@@powerband5235 absolutely if you want heat. A wood fireplace is only 15 to 25 percent efficient. This stove is rated at 79 percent efficient. So about 4x more which means you only have to burn 1/4 of the amount of wood. Much safer too.

exactly

@@catharsus21 why would I screw in the flats. Simple answer is thermal expansion. It may not be a big deal on a roof with few panels. Those that have lots of panels will quickly negate the seals on your screws that is unless your panel is designed to be screwed through the rib which some are just not the one in the video according to the manufacturer. Follow the manufacturer and sleep well if you don't you are open to a lawsuit later.

@@honeybeehomesteading well i was only posing a question and making a statement and USING my example .. on that note however . a roof with few panels .. WELL I AM NOT A CONTRACTOR nor am i saing my way is the only way ( just the way i prefer and have had the most sucess with ) and also if 36' by 42' and 40' by 60' ( just two examples ) are small ,,. i guess you live in texas ( everything is bigger in texas ) lol . now , also im not trying to sound mean or ignorant . but note " manufacturer RECOMENDATIONS " key word is " recomendation" as you have to assess all the variables ( one of the rules of engineering .. y = x of f ) kid of like GM SAYING " KEEP YOUR GM .. ALL GM . its recomended .. but NOT esential . same as sailing rigs .. weather it be a bimini / junk / naunsuch /square rig .. depends on the variables and area . and as i described about predrilling and not over tightening . as to negate the seals. or squish them out that they will degrade faster etc. i have been fortunate as im 5th generation that has been raised and live on aprox 2200 acres of wood lot with aprox 160 of farm land .. so we had to learn as we never could afford to hire a mechanic / carpenter / well driller/ electrician etc ., we learned ( sometimes the hard way ) we use our forge and actually farmed with horse up to 1979 . in fact my uncle never even had a indoor toilet untill 1988 ,., lolol ( his choice), but i am pointing out , that many in the comment section also are saying the very same thing i said or something similar . was never meant to offend . just making the statement.

I wasn't offended, I was just answering your question as to why i would screw in the flats. The manufacturer has a screw schedule it is not a recommendation but more of a must follow or you will void your warranty. Everyone should follow the schedule of the manufacturer if it says screw in the ribs screw in the ribs . I know many who have commented here have had leaks in the valley or are worried about leaks in the future. The trick is to properly screw the metal on, any screws overtightened should not be used. All of my roofs have held up for 20 years with no leaks. Funny you mentioned forging as i have been doing just that for last 4 days. thanks for commenting

the size of your building is also a critical factor. Through the ribs will cause issues with long building where there are lots of panels in a row. not a big deal in smaller buildings

@@yootoobnz8109 metal expansion can be a real issue depending on how long your roof is. A roof that is 150 ft long is going to have real issues. Some panels are designed for through the rib installation as they are heavier guage and usually transfer the expansion to a vertical movement. Which would I rather have in the rainforest....through the rib. Which would I want in a 🌪️ through the flat hands down.

What do you consider paper thin? The metal i normally use is 24 guage

What you call a lap screw we refer to as a stitching screw. I am well educated on the subject thank you. Here is a video of some of the different metal roofing screws i made over a year ago. it includes a screw that many have not seen that has a solid one piece head. th-cam.com/video/klGGIK25Wm4/w-d-xo.html

@@hausnerr the expansion occurs where the two sheets overlap as screwing in the flats allows the sheets to move independently. Screwing in the ridge they do not as they are all connected. Before you get all high and mighty I am just telling what the manufacturer had as the screw schedule something ever installer should read as it varies from different panel designs.