I'd make two mods to the machine. One, replace the allen head bolts with those adjustable position handles for easy and rapid change, and buy one of those plasma cutter leather-like sleeves for the hydraulic lines. You could also get 90 degree adapters for the hydraulic lines, pointing down that way you can leave them on since they won't stick out.
BITD when I ran equipment with (long) hydraulic lines out in the open, I swung by the local fire station and asked if they had any discarded fire hose that I could have. They were happy enough to give me some that were too leaky to bring along but not leaky enough to be immediately thrown away. The size they referred to as the "normal" hose made an excellent sleeve for my hydraulic lines.
Adam, I have an older pneumatic version, 1/2” tread capacity. I found that mounting the arm in the middle of the fixture table, at the back edge, has been the most useful, rather than mounting in a corner.
Maybe time for a tear down on that drill? I bet a clean and lube would loosen the fwd/rev and it could probably use new bearings. Would love to see it. Thanks for the video.
Then, once you've got the fittings clear, weld up a gutter out of hot-roll channel to go around the table to keep debris from falling onto the power unit and hang a sheet of expanded or perforated metal off that back side to protect the hoses and cables.
That is a good suggestion! If you point them down, you put the pressure equally across the o-ring and balls in the fitting. Reduce ware and oil seepage.
After watching you struggle with the FlexArm I will say that you are definitely a man that needs to own a forklift. After I bought my first forklift I promised myself that so long as I had a shop that I would never be without one again. They're just to handy to have around when you're dealing with machinery.
ABOM, I used a magnetic drill like that to drill truck frames for years. Did many a stretch, shorten, fish plate, and suspension change with a drill just like that. Thanks for the memories.
Stretched a few truck frames at my dad's shop years ago. No mag drill...outside on a gravel lot ... welding vert ups in sprinkling rain... great fun! Would have loved a mag drill and a level shop floor.
We picked up one of those units about 3 years ago... looks like they have made some much needed improvements on it, but we ran into some of the same issues: no lifting provisions made installation a bit awkward even with a forklift, that first swinging knuckle deceptively limits your working area, would be better if it had bearings in it so it could stay loose, even once it was all hooked up the hydraulic lines constantly want to swing it one way or the other, it really needs a handle on both sides to be more ergonomical.... there was a lot we weren't impressed with, but at the end of the day, it does tap holes faster than by hand. But we are actually moving most threading processes (back) to our CNC mills, even if it takes a little more time, a person isn't having to move parts to another machine and spend time processing them one by one.
MHjewelry I’d say tapped holes alone would probably suggest a machinist was involved, most non-machinists would probably drill clearance holes and use a nut and washer on the back.
The Gerstner toolbox winner is about he nicest guy you will ever meet (Rusty). Glad I was able to hang out with You and Abby and the whole gaggle of other TH-camrs and fans, the last couple weeks. Cheers, Gary
I have to admit, I don't know about many of your machines, but I watch and try to learn something. I believe that you are very talented for a man your age. Of course you may have been doing this at a very young age with your Dad and Granddad. Enjoy the format, thank you.
It definitely was an awesome time out at the GOTL festival my man. Great meeting you as well as so many other content creators. Looking forward to seeing you out there again next year and definitely looking forward to firing up that pit and making awesome BBQ again!!! Btw, loved your touch you put on Sam's santa maria grill...
Mount the ARM on a steel post mounted to the floor, between the grinder and the blue toolbox. The arm will reach across the walkway to work anywhere you want on the table. The power unit could go over there somewhere also.
Adam , I'm sure you considered this but I couldn't help wondering if the arm was swung and extended too far the wrong direction its weight could upset the table. Dandy gadget that DeWalt inflater. All the bells and whistles in a tiny (but noisy) package. Light years ahead of the usual Father's Day cheap auto parts store unit. Gotta give a big endorsement to the Richard King scraping class. He'll teach you well and get you started on basic scraping. It's well worth the time and money, not only for the class and all Richard has to offer but to acquire the culture, associate with your peers, make friends, and above all learn viscerally you don't have to labor in isolation.. Your description of skimming the rib crests of the RK casting for a clamping reference is one approach. But I suggest you set up the casting laying flat on three points on a set up plate clamping precisely over the jacks. This ensures distortion and the effect of part movement is minimized. Any tendancy to chatter or deflect can be remedied by slipping a wood wedge between the casting and the mounting surface. I used to machine straight edge on three points overhanging the edge of the planer table using the side head. Also, how much does your shaper ram droop when full extended? This droop is not linear and cresults in a slight convexity in the shaped surface depending on the machine condition. I suggest you run a tenths indicator along the reference edge of a good straight edge to validate the ram's linearity throughout its stroke. You may wish to tweak the gib. The reason I bring this up is, if it was me, I'd much prefer to scrap a slightly concavexsurface straight and flat than one that's slightly convex.
@@Sharklops I considered that but the tapping unit weighs a substantial fraction of 1000 lb and it looks looks if fully extended maybe 8 feet to the side. Weight and moment verges on instability. Problem is I don't have access to the tapping unit's dimensions and mass distribution so I can't calculate actual numbers one way or the other. However, my eyeball tells me the hazard should be ruled out before proceding much further. Maybe some experimental swings with the gantry rigged to catch the head's weight.
@@Sharklops i did, I guessed it at 250 lb but without actual numbers wexre reduced to speculation. A simple gantry guarded max extension test would take minutes and render my misgivings moot or validated.
@@forrestaddy9644/videos Adam's a bright guy, and he does have all the information. Maybe trust that he's thought of this and let him be responsible for his own safety.
It looks like you could reach the milling machine. Might be nice to work off of that vise directly. Not sure but it sure looks close enough. Thanks for the video.
With that Flex Arm, you could just about reach the mill. We have the WAY smaller version at my shop but it hasn't been used in the year and half since I've been there. It would also make a nice boom arm for awesome video shots 😁
No question Aserta is on the money . 90 degree at the pump and let the hoses hang straight down should reduce the stress on both the connector and the chassis mount of the hydraulic hoses.
It's funny Adam, I just rented a 3/4" drill today for a job, and the guy made sure to show me that it reversed using a ring just like that. I was just using it for mixing thinset, but it's the kind of thing I don't think most people would immediately realize.
Nearly seems like you want the base over on the same side as your work zone and have the arm base pointing toward where the base is now. Then you'd be able to reach your preferred work area and probably the rest of the table. What a monster though - interested to see what you will use it for!
First started watching Adam in 2014 after I got home from my first surgery. Watching his content I believe helped save my life, as I was struggling with a lot of things being thrown my way from doctors and the emotional battle from having to fight for my life it was a very welcome distraction. Thank you Adam and way to go on the weight loss I my self had struggled with my weight due to some medications. Looking fit man
You might add some 90˚ fittings on those hydraulic hoses. Not only to make more room, but also to protect them from damage if something heavy is moved alongside the table. I'd put the 90s between the power supply and the couplers, but you will want to see what works best for your installation. I'm sure your hydraulic experience will help you choose the proper fittings and know how to properly finish up after opening up the system. Great SNS as always. EDIT: Obviously I did not read all the previous comments before commenting.
I wonder if a bit of lubrication would be a good idea on the main mount for the FlexArm. I’m sure the humidity in Pensacola is quite intense and I’d hate to see that beautiful machine rusted onto the post. Does it have a zerk fitting for greasing?
Hi Abom, should look into making quick release clamps for the arm and eliminate having to use the Allen key all the time. Have a great day and keep up the good work!
The easiest and surest way to level a table with four legs such as yours. is to draw the two diagonals between the legs that go through the center of the table top. Now place your level on _one_ of the two diagonals, such that the level is over the center of the table. Now adjust _one_ of the two legs at the end of that diagonal, until the diagonal is level. Then rotate the level to lie on the other diagonal, and adjust _one_ of its two legs until the _second_ diagonal is level. Done! Works every time, and you only need to adjust two legs, and them only once.
I had to go look up the model on that flexarm to see the capabilities, man, that's an impressive unit (that's what she said). That's a hell of a price tag for a tapping device too. I would agree with a few other commenters here too. Moving that mount to the middle of the table will maximize its use ovover the whole table. My welding table at the shop has a hyd lift arm mounted to the back center of the table and it works great there.
I was looking at the drill and listening to the sound and thought it's like an old Black and Decker then I noticed the half painted over B&D name plate. Great old well built American work horse still going strong. Can't wait to see what the flex arm does, looks interesting. Good idea cleaning the straight edges up, looking forward to the shaper work. Tony
Adam, you have been a favorite of the machinist crowd for years because of your personality, your willingness to share your experience and knowledge and because you were a real, genuine working guy. Since you have gone to full time creation, it seems that your channel has devolved into a travel series and ,"hey, look at all the new stuff I have that I will never use because I don't do any real work anymore". Spending all that machine time and your personal talent just to make a "play" button? Come on, Man! You are far too experienced and have too much talent to waste. Please go back to doing real work.
Sanford Swope He has done really well since setting up on his own, must pay really well when you see all the new buildings, vehicles, machines, trips away-guess he is enjoying his new wealth and freedom. His sponsors must be a significant contribution too. All that product advertising is worth a great deal to the manufacturers/ retailers.
You expect Adam to have a schedule filled with nothing but work his shop is capable of so fast? How about you go start a new business with a fraction of whatever you daily use and see how long it takes. Jeez man. Go bitch somewhere else.
You could really do with a decent tapping device to tap square to the table holes fo that kurt vice! Great job Adam. Liking the slim line look you are now sporting. Keep up all the good work.
Adam, you spoke of possibly painting the straight edges red, well, I think orange would be my choice, if they were mine. Thanks for all your entertaining videos, I look forward to each new one.
Adam, that's a nice mag drill. Why don't you mill a spanner wrench to engage the ribs of the reversing ring. That should make it much easier to change from forward to reverse.
With all that reach, have you thought about making a wall mount for it? it would be great! you would have the whole bench to work with, and it would get out of the way really nicely when not in use! It would do for a great project too :)
Looks like you could tap on the mill with the kurt vise right where it is. Will the tapping head reach? That would be handy never take the work out of the vice on the mill, drill your hole and then reach over and grab the taping head and tap it! Another good video 👍 thumbs up
If you spin the pump round through 90 degrees, you could have the connections pointed towards the centre of the table and the buttons at the end of the table.
Adam: Man, we are so close... Me: *starts thinking of ways to re-engineer the crane, straps etc.* Adam: Well, I guess the logical thing to do is unbolt the mount and then slide it over and then bolt it down Me: Yes! exactly what I was thinking!
you should plot out your table for the arms min and max workable areas, it will make placement of jobs to be done faster than guessing, and if you take 5 minutes of light work to save 10 minutes each job you are ahead.
I just looked up the cost of the flex arms, the hydraulic units *start* at $6,000! I would love to have one but unless it was gifted to me as well, it’s probably best suited for production shops!
Hi Adam, just a thought, if the Flex Arm control box was turned ninety degrees, so the switch gear faces out the end of your table, then the connections would not stick out.
I have been waiting to see the Flexarm set up on your table it looks great can't wait to see it in action. P.S. That is one big honking old school drill and that it was your grandpa's and dad's makes it even better!
Could you get another base flange from the makers? I am thinking that you could machine some ball slots in there and fit a pair of ball detents in the main arm. Some post machining surface hardening might be needed, but cool project.
Saw the BD drill motor and recognized an old friend. My dad had one like that. Is that a 1 or 1/2 HP? Thank God it only had a two foot cord on it, a hundred years ago or so, my brother got his shirt twisted up in it and in an instant spun him upside-down before pulling the plug out of the wall. He weighed two - two and a half cord back then. Awww fond memories!
I would recommend to affix the table to the floor, or at least put in a short safety chain to the floor from the leg on the opposite side of the FlexArm. I understand that the table might be heavy enough, but if that arm extends outwards from the table for some reason, it could tip the whole thing over. Be careful it's a great deal of weight.
Adam, some folks that work with iron castings will "pickle" them to, I think, help remove left over sand and some of the hard skin that is so hard on tools. Perhaps you can find info on that to see if it would be worth doing it on the two straight edges. (I want to save up some $$$ to get one or more smaller straight edges, angles, etc., from Richard so I can hopefully end up with useful standards in my workshop. I'll look into this pickling too before then.)
A strip down and rebuild of the mag drill would be very interesting content. Any balance issues with the tapping arm or is there enough weight below the table to keep it stable? Thanks for the videos. They are always interesting. Good luck. Be safe.
Green caps on the valve stems usually indicates that the tires are filled with nitrogen. This was a practice that was started a decade or so ago because tires filled with nitrogen won't lose pressure as fast as tires filled with air. Tires filled with air tend to lose 1 to 2 psi a month.
air is already about 80% nitrogen so the pressure loss difference is hardly noticeable for most people. The biggest advantage of pure nitrogen is that it doesn't expand as much as regular air does as the tires heat up (and even that is probably not worth it for most people for what a lot of places charge for doing it)
Starrett model 98-10 or -12. Excellent tool. Got one exclusively for leveling pool tables. Boy is it ever sensitive compared to your average carpenters level. The only starrett tool to my name, when someone asks how heavy it is? My answer: quality
Your a humble chap Mr Abom! Not many people would openly admit to not knowing there own tool, love the content as always nice a reliable compared to sum on TH-cam Little Fan J
Its hard to judge the distance, but can you reach the mill table with that taping arm? Less useful because it's a horizontal mill, but might come in handy on a job or two.
Find a tub that will fit in and use a mixture of 4 gallon water to 1 pint molasses if it takes more to cover it just use that ratio to make more leave it for a month and they will come out free of rust then dry them and paint right away to prevent surface rust from forming
Provided the paint won't foul the finish or cutting tools, I'd completely paint the straight edges before any machining is done and get the 2-tone look without any extra effort.
A design improvement high be having that main support arm at a less sever angle so you can use the unit closer in and hand knobs to tighten the pivot would be more convenient than a hex wrench. Those welds looks a bit sloppy...
adam.. have you ever gotten the old cylinder out of an in the ground car lift hoist.. usually 10, 12 or 14" in diameter 7 feet of stroke. cut the rod and the housing down and made it into a 3 or 4 foot stroke version to make one heck of a shop press ram.. its just a thought.. making a C Frame type press with it.. so it stands close to the wall and does not take much floor space.. or a fork lift main boom ram converted to a press ram..
Adam, do they not make a 90-degree fitting that you could put in between those two quick disconnect fittings so that the hydraulic hoses could just stay connected and out of the way along the long side of the table?
now you can use your mag drill to remove broken bits, screws and the like without having to use the mill if you so wished. Those 2 pieces are pretty expensive. Wonder if one could go to a scrap yard and buy a piece of of rail and make something similar. The metal for the rail should be a very consistent quality material, hot worked and in a near approximate shape. You should also be able to find really good material data for it as well.
Might make some good content to build your vise in to a flip table arrangement.. When you need it you pull a pin and flip it into position, when you don't you pull a pin and roll it down under the table top.
I'd make two mods to the machine. One, replace the allen head bolts with those adjustable position handles for easy and rapid change, and buy one of those plasma cutter leather-like sleeves for the hydraulic lines.
You could also get 90 degree adapters for the hydraulic lines, pointing down that way you can leave them on since they won't stick out.
BITD when I ran equipment with (long) hydraulic lines out in the open, I swung by the local fire station and asked if they had any discarded fire hose that I could have. They were happy enough to give me some that were too leaky to bring along but not leaky enough to be immediately thrown away. The size they referred to as the "normal" hose made an excellent sleeve for my hydraulic lines.
Adam, I have an older pneumatic version, 1/2” tread capacity. I found that mounting the arm in the middle of the fixture table, at the back edge, has been the most useful, rather than mounting in a corner.
A great multi-channel collaboration would be having hand tool rescue refurb your mag drill.
Maybe time for a tear down on that drill? I bet a clean and lube would loosen the fwd/rev and it could probably use new bearings. Would love to see it. Thanks for the video.
If it ain't broke, Don't fix it.
Tote that barge, lift that bale.....!
Let's just send it to AvE for BOLTR.
@@qualified_monkey8813 though we do want it to work afterwards.......
YuriIsMyWaifu It’s called maintenance.
You. can get 90 deg hydraulic fittings for the hoses. Then you can leave them connected.
Then, once you've got the fittings clear, weld up a gutter out of hot-roll channel to go around the table to keep debris from falling onto the power unit and hang a sheet of expanded or perforated metal off that back side to protect the hoses and cables.
That is a good suggestion! If you point them down, you put the pressure equally across the o-ring and balls in the fitting. Reduce ware and oil seepage.
After watching you struggle with the FlexArm I will say that you are definitely a man that needs to own a forklift. After I bought my first forklift I promised myself that so long as I had a shop that I would never be without one again. They're just to handy to have around when you're dealing with machinery.
ABOM, I used a magnetic drill like that to drill truck frames for years. Did many a stretch, shorten, fish plate, and suspension change with a drill just like that. Thanks for the memories.
Stretched a few truck frames at my dad's shop years ago. No mag drill...outside on a gravel lot ... welding vert ups in sprinkling rain... great fun! Would have loved a mag drill and a level shop floor.
We picked up one of those units about 3 years ago... looks like they have made some much needed improvements on it, but we ran into some of the same issues: no lifting provisions made installation a bit awkward even with a forklift, that first swinging knuckle deceptively limits your working area, would be better if it had bearings in it so it could stay loose, even once it was all hooked up the hydraulic lines constantly want to swing it one way or the other, it really needs a handle on both sides to be more ergonomical.... there was a lot we weren't impressed with, but at the end of the day, it does tap holes faster than by hand. But we are actually moving most threading processes (back) to our CNC mills, even if it takes a little more time, a person isn't having to move parts to another machine and spend time processing them one by one.
how do you recognize a machinists table? all the holes on it have chamfers!
...and been reamed...!
MHjewelry I’d say tapped holes alone would probably suggest a machinist was involved, most non-machinists would probably drill clearance holes and use a nut and washer on the back.
@@literoadie3502 Nah...The nut would be welded in place! LOL
@@literoadie3502 Or self tapping screws would be used 🤣
@@ferrumignis Can you use those in thick steel like this?
The Gerstner toolbox winner is about he nicest guy you will ever meet (Rusty). Glad I was able to hang out with You and Abby and the whole gaggle of other TH-camrs and fans, the last couple weeks.
Cheers, Gary
One-manly operation. Loved it as much as my own no-help Curt trailer hitch install (at age 65). Thanks Adam for sharing!
I have to admit, I don't know about many of your machines, but I watch and try to learn something. I believe that you are very talented for a man your age. Of course you may have been doing this at a very young age with your Dad and Granddad. Enjoy the format, thank you.
Already mentioned in the comments I see but I too think some 90deg fittings would make those hydraulic lines fit much better.
It definitely was an awesome time out at the GOTL festival my man. Great meeting you as well as so many other content creators. Looking forward to seeing you out there again next year and definitely looking forward to firing up that pit and making awesome BBQ again!!! Btw, loved your touch you put on Sam's santa maria grill...
Mount the ARM on a steel post mounted to the floor, between the grinder and the blue toolbox. The arm will reach across the walkway to work anywhere you want on the table. The power unit could go over there somewhere also.
You should get a 90° fitting for the hydraulic couplings, that way the hoses might can be connected all the time without being in the way.
Nice to see you have been able at last to get it mounted on the table, great bit of kit and look forward to seeing it running.
I love your channel and your work!
I am also a CNC/Lath operator, but located in germany.
Keep up the good work!
The picture at the end of all your videos with your father and grandfather is awesome.
The Bux mag drills are great , the one we had looked the same but had power feed & i used to use it for line boring excavator buckets .
Those straightedges would look amazing in black. Maybe de-rust them, blast them and powder-coat them, and *then* machine them?
Adam , I'm sure you considered this but I couldn't help wondering if the arm was swung and extended too far the wrong direction its weight could upset the table.
Dandy gadget that DeWalt inflater. All the bells and whistles in a tiny (but noisy) package. Light years ahead of the usual Father's Day cheap auto parts store unit.
Gotta give a big endorsement to the Richard King scraping class. He'll teach you well and get you started on basic scraping. It's well worth the time and money, not only for the class and all Richard has to offer but to acquire the culture, associate with your peers, make friends, and above all learn viscerally you don't have to labor in isolation..
Your description of skimming the rib crests of the RK casting for a clamping reference is one approach. But I suggest you set up the casting laying flat on three points on a set up plate clamping precisely over the jacks. This ensures distortion and the effect of part movement is minimized. Any tendancy to chatter or deflect can be remedied by slipping a wood wedge between the casting and the mounting surface. I used to machine straight edge on three points overhanging the edge of the planer table using the side head.
Also, how much does your shaper ram droop when full extended? This droop is not linear and cresults in a slight convexity in the shaped surface depending on the machine condition. I suggest you run a tenths indicator along the reference edge of a good straight edge to validate the ram's linearity throughout its stroke. You may wish to tweak the gib. The reason I bring this up is, if it was me, I'd much prefer to scrap a slightly concavexsurface straight and flat than one that's slightly convex.
the table weighs around 1000lbs if I remember correctly. I don't think it's going anywhere
@@Sharklops I considered that but the tapping unit weighs a substantial fraction of 1000 lb and it looks looks if fully extended maybe 8 feet to the side. Weight and moment verges on instability. Problem is I don't have access to the tapping unit's dimensions and mass distribution so I can't calculate actual numbers one way or the other. However, my eyeball tells me the hazard should be ruled out before proceding much further. Maybe some experimental swings with the gantry rigged to catch the head's weight.
Forrest Addy keep in mind that the very bulky hydraulic/power unit is also resting on the lower shelf of the table
@@Sharklops i did, I guessed it at 250 lb but without actual numbers wexre reduced to speculation. A simple gantry guarded max extension test would take minutes and render my misgivings moot or validated.
@@forrestaddy9644/videos Adam's a bright guy, and he does have all the information. Maybe trust that he's thought of this and let him be responsible for his own safety.
Dude... Adam... You are looking awesome dude!!!! Great job man! keep it up, and as always, love the content! teaches me a lot!
It looks like you could reach the milling machine. Might be nice to work off of that vise directly. Not sure but it sure looks close enough. Thanks for the video.
With that Flex Arm, you could just about reach the mill. We have the WAY smaller version at my shop but it hasn't been used in the year and half since I've been there. It would also make a nice boom arm for awesome video shots 😁
Took my 17 year old son to Good of the Land Fest. We had a good time. Was nice to meet you and Abby, she is so funny and sweet.
No question Aserta is on the money . 90 degree at the pump and let the hoses hang straight down should reduce the stress on both the connector and the chassis mount of the hydraulic hoses.
Dude, seeing you kneel next to that table, you have lost a load of weight. Great work!
I bet those straight edges would look "spiffy" with a metalic dark forest green. Great vid!
Cool project. I'm looking forward to watching you machine those straight edges.
Your shop is very clean and organized.
It's funny Adam, I just rented a 3/4" drill today for a job, and the guy made sure to show me that it reversed using a ring just like that. I was just using it for mixing thinset, but it's the kind of thing I don't think most people would immediately realize.
Nearly seems like you want the base over on the same side as your work zone and have the arm base pointing toward where the base is now. Then you'd be able to reach your preferred work area and probably the rest of the table. What a monster though - interested to see what you will use it for!
Adam, I haven't watched in a while, you're looking great, keep up the good diet.
First started watching Adam in 2014 after I got home from my first surgery. Watching his content I believe helped save my life, as I was struggling with a lot of things being thrown my way from doctors and the emotional battle from having to fight for my life it was a very welcome distraction. Thank you Adam and way to go on the weight loss I my self had struggled with my weight due to some medications. Looking fit man
Very nice unit. Should be a great help. Hey Adam you can get 90⁰ fitting and let the hosesloop down towards the floor
You might add some 90˚ fittings on those hydraulic hoses. Not only to make more room, but also to protect them from damage if something heavy is moved alongside the table. I'd put the 90s between the power supply and the couplers, but you will want to see what works best for your installation. I'm sure your hydraulic experience will help you choose the proper fittings and know how to properly finish up after opening up the system. Great SNS as always.
EDIT: Obviously I did not read all the previous comments before commenting.
I wonder if a bit of lubrication would be a good idea on the main mount for the FlexArm. I’m sure the humidity in Pensacola is quite intense and I’d hate to see that beautiful machine rusted onto the post. Does it have a zerk fitting for greasing?
Hi Abom, should look into making quick release clamps for the arm and eliminate having to use the Allen key all the time.
Have a great day and keep up the good work!
The easiest and surest way to level a table with four legs such as yours. is to draw the two diagonals between the legs that go through the center of the table top. Now place your level on _one_ of the two diagonals, such that the level is over the center of the table. Now adjust _one_ of the two legs at the end of that diagonal, until the diagonal is level. Then rotate the level to lie on the other diagonal, and adjust _one_ of its two legs until the _second_ diagonal is level. Done! Works every time, and you only need to adjust two legs, and them only once.
I had to go look up the model on that flexarm to see the capabilities, man, that's an impressive unit (that's what she said). That's a hell of a price tag for a tapping device too.
I would agree with a few other commenters here too. Moving that mount to the middle of the table will maximize its use ovover the whole table. My welding table at the shop has a hyd lift arm mounted to the back center of the table and it works great there.
Like that Mag Drill. Drill a hole in your table for storing the Allen wrench. That way it will be available when you need it.
I miss the machining and turning videos, that's why I subscribed to your channel in first place...just a thought!
His machining business is still spinning up. Have you not been watching? SNS has never been about making chips anyway.
@@thatrealba well I wasn't asking for your input, the comment was for Adam, thanks!
@@honeycuttracing 🙄
I was looking at the drill and listening to the sound and thought it's like an old Black and Decker then I noticed the half painted over B&D name plate.
Great old well built American work horse still going strong. Can't wait to see what the flex arm does, looks interesting. Good idea cleaning the straight edges up, looking forward to the shaper work. Tony
Adam, you have been a favorite of the machinist crowd for years because of your personality, your willingness to share your experience and knowledge and because you were a real, genuine working guy. Since you have gone to full time creation, it seems that your channel has devolved into a travel series and ,"hey, look at all the new stuff I have that I will never use because I don't do any real work anymore". Spending all that machine time and your personal talent just to make a "play" button? Come on, Man! You are far too experienced and have too much talent to waste. Please go back to doing real work.
Wow what a hater...the play button was for someone..quit being jelous bud ...if u dont like it dont watch
Sanford Swope He has done really well since setting up on his own, must pay really well when you see all the new buildings, vehicles, machines, trips away-guess he is enjoying his new wealth and freedom. His sponsors must be a significant contribution too. All that product advertising is worth a great deal to the manufacturers/ retailers.
You expect Adam to have a schedule filled with nothing but work his shop is capable of so fast?
How about you go start a new business with a fraction of whatever you daily use and see how long it takes.
Jeez man. Go bitch somewhere else.
I personally love it when people tell me how to run my business.
@@blakecrawford5101 Right?
You could really do with a decent tapping device to tap square to the table holes fo that kurt vice! Great job Adam. Liking the slim line look you are now sporting. Keep up all the good work.
Adam, you spoke of possibly painting the straight edges red, well, I think orange would be my choice, if they were mine. Thanks for all your entertaining videos, I look forward to each new one.
The collar on that drill is changing the orientation of the brushgear...that's how it works...🇬🇧👍
This is one reason to keep an eye on them brushes, so it will run for another 50 yrs.
The straightedge machining will be a fun little project. 😎
Nice tools You should get 90° coupling for your hydraulic hose, so you won’t have to disconnected the hose to Move them out of the way
Thought you were going to move it into place with your personal Flexarms.
Abom POWER!
Adam, that's a nice mag drill. Why don't you mill a spanner wrench to engage the ribs of the reversing ring. That should make it much easier to change from forward to reverse.
I'm glad to see I'm not the only one who loves that drill. Great tool.
With all that reach, have you thought about making a wall mount for it? it would be great! you would have the whole bench to work with, and it would get out of the way really nicely when not in use! It would do for a great project too :)
Looks like you could tap on the mill with the kurt vise right where it is. Will the tapping head reach? That would be handy never take the work out of the vice on the mill, drill your hole and then reach over and grab the taping head and tap it! Another good video 👍 thumbs up
If you spin the pump round through 90 degrees, you could have the connections pointed towards the centre of the table and the buttons at the end of the table.
Adam: Man, we are so close...
Me: *starts thinking of ways to re-engineer the crane, straps etc.*
Adam: Well, I guess the logical thing to do is unbolt the mount and then slide it over and then bolt it down
Me: Yes! exactly what I was thinking!
My biggest 'oh...' moment of today
you should plot out your table for the arms min and max workable areas, it will make placement of jobs to be done faster than guessing, and if you take 5 minutes of light work to save 10 minutes each job you are ahead.
I just looked up the cost of the flex arms, the hydraulic units *start* at $6,000! I would love to have one but unless it was gifted to me as well, it’s probably best suited for production shops!
So nice to see you lose some weight for your better health. Good job Adam. Look forward to the videos of different festivals too.
Fantastic Video Adam , investing in some more Great tools ,Brilliant .
Looking Great with the weight loss Adam , be proud.
Hi Adam, just a thought, if the Flex Arm control box was turned ninety degrees, so the switch gear faces out the end of your table, then the connections would not stick out.
I have been waiting to see the Flexarm set up on your table it looks great can't wait to see it in action.
P.S. That is one big honking old school drill and that it was your grandpa's and dad's makes it even better!
Could you get another base flange from the makers? I am thinking that you could machine some ball slots in there and fit a pair of ball detents in the main arm. Some post machining surface hardening might be needed, but cool project.
Hey Adam.....Great content!!!! Can't wait to see how the straight edges work out!!
Saw the BD drill motor and recognized an old friend. My dad had one like that. Is that a 1 or 1/2 HP? Thank God it only had a two foot cord on it, a hundred years ago or so, my brother got his shirt twisted up in it and in an instant spun him upside-down before pulling the plug out of the wall. He weighed two - two and a half cord back then. Awww fond memories!
I would recommend to affix the table to the floor, or at least put in a short safety chain to the floor from the leg on the opposite side of the FlexArm. I understand that the table might be heavy enough, but if that arm extends outwards from the table for some reason, it could tip the whole thing over. Be careful it's a great deal of weight.
A great project would be for you to make some sort of sleeve with a handle to turn that reverse collar on the mag drill easily.
Adam what you could do about the HYD hoses is run them over the top of the arm. you might want too protect them with some kind of sleeve
Adam, some folks that work with iron castings will "pickle" them to, I think, help remove left over sand and some of the hard skin that is so hard on tools. Perhaps you can find info on that to see if it would be worth doing it on the two straight edges. (I want to save up some $$$ to get one or more smaller straight edges, angles, etc., from Richard so I can hopefully end up with useful standards in my workshop. I'll look into this pickling too before then.)
A strip down and rebuild of the mag drill would be very interesting content. Any balance issues with the tapping arm or is there enough weight below the table to keep it stable? Thanks for the videos. They are always interesting. Good luck. Be safe.
With all this equipment in your shop it is starting to look a little cramped. Do you do any actual commercial work in it ?
Art M he seems to do a lot of “commercials”.
Green caps on the valve stems usually indicates that the tires are filled with nitrogen. This was a practice that was started a decade or so ago because tires filled with nitrogen won't lose pressure as fast as tires filled with air. Tires filled with air tend to lose 1 to 2 psi a month.
air is already about 80% nitrogen so the pressure loss difference is hardly noticeable for most people. The biggest advantage of pure nitrogen is that it doesn't expand as much as regular air does as the tires heat up (and even that is probably not worth it for most people for what a lot of places charge for doing it)
Hi Adam, would it not be a good idea to cut the top surface of the straight edges parralell to the bottom surface while you are at it?
I should be able to put your panel on a pallet late this coming week. 45a main, (2) 3p 20s. 1 for a spare.
You damn well better be using that flex arm for tapping the holes for the vice.
Starrett model 98-10 or -12. Excellent tool. Got one exclusively for leveling pool tables. Boy is it ever sensitive compared to your average carpenters level. The only starrett tool to my name, when someone asks how heavy it is? My answer: quality
i'm kinda curious now what one can do with the business end of that flex arm..
i have no idea as yet.. is it some kind of drill?
Your a humble chap Mr Abom! Not many people would openly admit to not knowing there own tool, love the content as always nice a reliable compared to sum on TH-cam
Little Fan J
I'm going to have to get that Duluth shop apron. Abom is the type I'd see on the front of one of their catalogs. ☺️
Its hard to judge the distance, but can you reach the mill table with that taping arm? Less useful because it's a horizontal mill, but might come in handy on a job or two.
Ah, the delights of sharp drill bits
Getting excited to see the flex arm in action
Find a tub that will fit in and use a mixture of 4 gallon water to 1 pint molasses if it takes more to cover it just use that ratio to make more leave it for a month and they will come out free of rust then dry them and paint right away to prevent surface rust from forming
Drilling the holes for the flex arm sure would've been a whole lot easier with a flex arm
Yea I was thinking that. He should have used the flex arm to drill the holes for the flex arm :)
4 years ago NYC CNC in his vid, called that the Abom79 size! Very nice!
Provided the paint won't foul the finish or cutting tools, I'd completely paint the straight edges before any machining is done and get the 2-tone look without any extra effort.
A design improvement high be having that main support arm at a less sever angle so you can use the unit closer in and hand knobs to tighten the pivot would be more convenient than a hex wrench. Those welds looks a bit sloppy...
adam.. have you ever gotten the old cylinder out of an in the ground car lift hoist.. usually 10, 12 or 14" in diameter 7 feet of stroke. cut the rod and the housing down and made it into a 3 or 4 foot stroke version to make one heck of a shop press ram.. its just a thought.. making a C Frame type press with it.. so it stands close to the wall and does not take much floor space.. or a fork lift main boom ram converted to a press ram..
A restoration on the magdrill would be cool to see . Also cant wait for the K&E work on those planner
I was just thinking about the flexarm the other day, wondering what happened to it. Then I wake up today and see the flexarm video, lol.
if you use a belted pipe wrench it is easier to turn the ring from forward to reverse for the mag drill
I'm going to have to go to this next year. I haven't heard another event as well received and spoke of in the engineering/maker/craftsmen community.
You need to make a spline wrench to fit you mag drill for simple direction changes.
Adam, that's a pretty cool drill..I think it deserves a face lift ala the Reed vise...Make for a.cool episode oh SNS.
You could get a 90 degree fitting or a banjo bolt fitting to keep hydraulic lines out of the way.
Adam, do they not make a 90-degree fitting that you could put in between those two quick disconnect fittings so that the hydraulic hoses could just stay connected and out of the way along the long side of the table?
Hi Adam .. I think the straight edges would look great the same colour as the shaper :)
now you can use your mag drill to remove broken bits, screws and the like without having to use the mill if you so wished. Those 2 pieces are pretty expensive. Wonder if one could go to a scrap yard and buy a piece of of rail and make something similar. The metal for the rail should be a very consistent quality material, hot worked and in a near approximate shape. You should also be able to find really good material data for it as well.
Adam is looking trimmer in every video, great work keep it up
Might make some good content to build your vise in to a flip table arrangement.. When you need it you pull a pin and flip it into position, when you don't you pull a pin and roll it down under the table top.
Lol you just made me go look at my old B&D drill to see if it had the reversing ring, but it doesn't.