My friend. I have been welding for about 5 years now professionally. I'm no veteran, but I will tell you right now, In the nicest of ways, You need to Practice a bit more before you start welding structural sections into your car like that mate. Your'e not running your welder hot enough, I paused and zoomed in on your welds, and I can tell that you don't have full penetration. I'm not trying to be an asshole, I really like the work you've done on your last car, and I'm really stoked that you are teaching yourself how to weld. Its just about safety brother. You're going to be trusting this thing with you and your loved-ones lives. basically. Download a Welding app on your phone to help you set your welder properly for the thickness of steel you want to weld. Your weld should look almost flat, and the steel beside your bead should look "wet" consistently the whole way along your weld. check out some Pictures of High quality welds on google. You're well on your way my friend. But please understand; just because its holding together now, i promise you it will not hold up under the stress, strain and vibrations of driving. I am speaking from first hand experience here, i've had welds break on me; no bueno.
You need to use a heater tap from an MG Midget. Part number 8G588 with adapter ACA5456 and gasket 88G221 and washer AAA836 available from moss. You can then turn of water flow without problem. From an sprite/mgmidget
Good update and good to see the minis! Chinese cheap $hit, its everywhere! Also This has given me the motivation to make a spit/jig, nice to be able to see how one is made. 👍🏻 hopefully see you at L2B (if the boss is feeling kind) 🤣
Exactly same happened to me just the same getting onto the motorway and bam luckily I had a load of zip ties and spare coolant and got it home just about. Minisport valves are shit I got rid of the valve and I'm putting in a brass tap near the heater matrix.
There is a app called miller welding app basically tells you the amp feed rate and wire size for the thickness off the steel so you can set it to the correct setting and smash on if it helps good luck pal
OMG 😮 Tom! That happened to my GT , the valve just started leaking like f... it happened when I pulled the cable from inside the car. Just started to p... out. The welding will get Better with practice mate, penetration is the first thing and you seem to have got that. Looking forward to the clubby build 👌
You could always just get a high temperature ball valve and rig it up to turn the heater on or off. May even be able to connect it with the original cable.
When my mini last broke down, I broke down at a pub, I was rather tipsy by the time the RAC turned up, my car wasnt driveable, it died of oil starvation as the gasket between the box and block was slightly blocking the oil pickup. Oh, I was also on my way down to kent for a wedding, and its replacement engine came from the person who got married about 5 years later.
Hello mate. I'm also working on restoring a mini 1000. I just finished the engine and suspension, now I'm working on exterior and soon paint. Mine is quite different from yours and I'm trying to make it as original as possible. The engine grille is black, mug guards are also black and the side mirrors are square. The interior is all black leather. Have you got some suggestions to what style to follow and even maybe where to get mini parts. I've been buying parts from minispares. I can send you pictures if you are interested. Right now it's yellow but I'm planning to paint it red. Cheers
Did you get the heater valve form minispares or Minisport? You contradict yourself in the video mate. I’ve found the ends on the cheap ones aren’t preened properly causing them to blow. The minisspares ones seem to be much better quality.
That’s what happened to me on the L2BR last year, had my car all nice and finished after a couple of months rebuilding and I didn’t even make it to the venue in London. Think I was like 5 miles away. Devastated 😭
Good little update ! Naughty recovery man getting you driving the car on 😮 slapped wrist there ! And no hi-viz too very bad .Those valves are crap ive gotta get a DSN angle bit for mine too ! As for the welding - all it takes is practice! The jig will be good practice on heavy gauge steel but panels will require more patience and a different power and wire speed ... just practice with thinner scrap bits of metal like Randy (Lone Star Mini) did ! You’ll pick it up quick i know you will 🤜🤛 Looking forward to seeing you again at L2B 👍
That same part was the cause of my very first (of many!) breakdowns in my Mk1 and failed in exactly the same way. Annoying that there isn't a decent quality alternative apart from either a permanent take-off or just blanking off the heater flow entirely.
Unfortunately a wide spread problem with classic car parts (have it with Triumph parts lasting months not years, especially rubber parts) with suppliers sighting trying to keep prices down - really. We'll pay for quality parts, because the crap you have to go through when the current poor quality parts fail just isn't worth it.
Same f’ing thing happened to me! F’ing %%}**}£!?!! Crap parts. Got from minisport and someone told me to look for a marking on the heater value body for the better quality ones....So far mine has held up. Welcome to my world, mate. Left me Stranded.
I wish that some of these suppliers would just start stocking higher quality parts and then just charge us more for them. Hell, our time rebuilding and driving these old Minis is worth more than the total sum saved by using cheap shitty parts!
tough luck with that shite valve. Have a look at this www.dsnclassics.co.uk/retrosport-shop/engine-accessories/heater-take-off-stub-retrosport-angled-5-8/ Nice bit of billet bling, add a simple in line valve......Or add an fiesta H shaped heater valve into the heater circuit to keep constant coolant flow around cylinder 4
this is what you get when you trail your car to shows, never know if its actually usable. driving with the valve closed (cold setting) on a hot day will always overheat a mini.. this coooooooked.. pack some tools, some spares.. do a few hundread miles hard driving, fix what breaks.. always have the heater on. the valve did split, but its split due to pressure, three miles means it probably cooked and popped the valve befor the stat even opened. warm it up well, and yes, carry spares. you will work out the niggles and trust the car in time ;) breakdowns will happen with a restored car. dont be disheartened! fuck minispares btw ;)
Hi, loads and loads of problems with Minispares those days, especially when there is rubber somewhere in the part you are using. the quality is just terrible. something as simple as a fuel tank grommet did not last 6 months before it cracked. Answer from Minispares so far: "Meh..."
My friend. I have been welding for about 5 years now professionally. I'm no veteran, but I will tell you right now, In the nicest of ways, You need to Practice a bit more before you start welding structural sections into your car like that mate. Your'e not running your welder hot enough, I paused and zoomed in on your welds, and I can tell that you don't have full penetration. I'm not trying to be an asshole, I really like the work you've done on your last car, and I'm really stoked that you are teaching yourself how to weld. Its just about safety brother. You're going to be trusting this thing with you and your loved-ones lives. basically. Download a Welding app on your phone to help you set your welder properly for the thickness of steel you want to weld. Your weld should look almost flat, and the steel beside your bead should look "wet" consistently the whole way along your weld. check out some Pictures of High quality welds on google. You're well on your way my friend. But please understand; just because its holding together now, i promise you it will not hold up under the stress, strain and vibrations of driving. I am speaking from first hand experience here, i've had welds break on me; no bueno.
I’m glad I decided to check reviews on this part before buying. Ended up getting a new old stock part for less and haven’t had any issues yet🤞
Same issue with mine. Replaced with a MED billet take off, no more leaky. Looks nice too.
You need to use a heater tap from an MG Midget. Part number 8G588 with adapter ACA5456 and gasket 88G221 and washer AAA836 available from moss. You can then turn of water flow without problem. From an sprite/mgmidget
Yes excellent piece.
Had the same problem,fitted the plastic inline valve which I think is on the mpi model. No problems since
Same here mpi valve ones work perfectly
It's a mini adventure. The welding looks good
Just what I love doing on a bank holiday weekend- sitting on the side of a motorway!!! ;)
Had the same problem Tom the part don't look or feel fit for purpose a cheap part at a big price mate Rob
Good update and good to see the minis! Chinese cheap $hit, its everywhere! Also This has given me the motivation to make a spit/jig, nice to be able to see how one is made. 👍🏻 hopefully see you at L2B (if the boss is feeling kind) 🤣
Exactly same happened to me just the same getting onto the motorway and bam luckily I had a load of zip ties and spare coolant and got it home just about. Minisport valves are shit I got rid of the valve and I'm putting in a brass tap near the heater matrix.
There is a app called miller welding app basically tells you the amp feed rate and wire size for the thickness off the steel so you can set it to the correct setting and smash on if it helps good luck pal
OMG 😮 Tom! That happened to my GT , the valve just started leaking like f... it happened when I pulled the cable from inside the car. Just started to p... out. The welding will get Better with practice mate, penetration is the first thing and you seem to have got that. Looking forward to the clubby build 👌
I had this problem man🤦🏻♂️ went through 3 before I made a stainless elbow. Now looking at the comments there appears to be an alternative 👍👍👍
The most British thing “ all I want is a beer and to forget about it “ what a lad 😂
You could always just get a high temperature ball valve and rig it up to turn the heater on or off. May even be able to connect it with the original cable.
When my mini last broke down, I broke down at a pub, I was rather tipsy by the time the RAC turned up, my car wasnt driveable, it died of oil starvation as the gasket between the box and block was slightly blocking the oil pickup. Oh, I was also on my way down to kent for a wedding, and its replacement engine came from the person who got married about 5 years later.
Hello mate. I'm also working on restoring a mini 1000. I just finished the engine and suspension, now I'm working on exterior and soon paint. Mine is quite different from yours and I'm trying to make it as original as possible.
The engine grille is black, mug guards are also black and the side mirrors are square. The interior is all black leather.
Have you got some suggestions to what style to follow and even maybe where to get mini parts. I've been buying parts from minispares.
I can send you pictures if you are interested. Right now it's yellow but I'm planning to paint it red.
Cheers
Did you get the heater valve form minispares or Minisport? You contradict yourself in the video mate.
I’ve found the ends on the cheap ones aren’t preened properly causing them to blow. The minisspares ones seem to be much better quality.
That’s what happened to me on the L2BR last year, had my car all nice and finished after a couple of months rebuilding and I didn’t even make it to the venue in London. Think I was like 5 miles away. Devastated 😭
Do you still do mini of the week or not and I think your video are so good and you have inspired me to get a mini to restore for my self
Gutted for ya she broke down! What about the later type of heater control valve, fitted after the pipe comes out the head. Just a idea. 👍
Now you're a proper mini owner you're not only classic Mini until you sitting on the side of the road on the motorway calling it a little shit lol
Try plastic heater valve of a later mini
Good little update ! Naughty recovery man getting you driving the car on 😮 slapped wrist there ! And no hi-viz too very bad .Those valves are crap ive gotta get a DSN angle bit for mine too ! As for the welding - all it takes is practice! The jig will be good practice on heavy gauge steel but panels will require more patience and a different power and wire speed ... just practice with thinner scrap bits of metal like Randy (Lone Star Mini) did ! You’ll pick it up quick i know you will 🤜🤛
Looking forward to seeing you again at L2B 👍
Hi how much sound proofing did you use and how much did it cost please
That same part was the cause of my very first (of many!) breakdowns in my Mk1 and failed in exactly the same way. Annoying that there isn't a decent quality alternative apart from either a permanent take-off or just blanking off the heater flow entirely.
So annoying! And it’s more annoying there isn’t an alternative like you say
So that's why I don't get cold air! 😂 always learning!
How do you rate that SGS Air compressor?
Same thing happened to me. It was bought from minispares.
Looks like a ball ache mate, I’ll hopefully see you at L&B
There have been many reasons why the mini's I've had in the past have broken down but that's a new one.
Unfortunately a wide spread problem with classic car parts (have it with Triumph parts lasting months not years, especially rubber parts) with suppliers sighting trying to keep prices down - really. We'll pay for quality parts, because the crap you have to go through when the current poor quality parts fail just isn't worth it.
Same f’ing thing happened to me! F’ing %%}**}£!?!! Crap parts. Got from minisport and someone told me to look for a marking on the heater value body for the better quality ones....So far mine has held up. Welcome to my world, mate. Left me
Stranded.
Had a few shit parts from minisport myself. And a bad experience with them. Couple sound lads on the counter but poor upper management.
I wish that some of these suppliers would just start stocking higher quality parts and then just charge us more for them. Hell, our time rebuilding and driving these old Minis is worth more than the total sum saved by using cheap shitty parts!
I watched your video yesterday and today the same thing just happened to my mini while I was out! Shouldn’t have watched this one must have cursed me.
What's the old saying...you'll pay twice if you don't use OMC.
As I said on insta mate, I've got an MPi internal valve (much more reliable) you can have it if it'll help!
SPI or MPI valves are much better.
We always say if we dont breakdown you will never remember that trip¿ :)
mk 1 lights and tan leather nice
Shit products that aren't cheap and with no attempts at making them better can be very upsetting, AGREED!
BE WELDING YOU!!
tough luck with that shite valve.
Have a look at this www.dsnclassics.co.uk/retrosport-shop/engine-accessories/heater-take-off-stub-retrosport-angled-5-8/
Nice bit of billet bling, add a simple in line valve......Or add an fiesta H shaped heater valve into the heater circuit to keep constant coolant flow around cylinder 4
They are shite and always failing.Get the heater valve JJB10011 from Minispares with a straight take off from the block
Better off deleting it with a dsn alloy take off, no noticable difference of heat in the cabin and its problem solved for life
this is what you get when you trail your car to shows, never know if its actually usable. driving with the valve closed (cold setting) on a hot day will always overheat a mini.. this coooooooked.. pack some tools, some spares.. do a few hundread miles hard driving, fix what breaks.. always have the heater on. the valve did split, but its split due to pressure, three miles means it probably cooked and popped the valve befor the stat even opened. warm it up well, and yes, carry spares. you will work out the niggles and trust the car in time ;) breakdowns will happen with a restored car. dont be disheartened! fuck minispares btw ;)
Hi, loads and loads of problems with Minispares those days, especially when there is rubber somewhere in the part you are using. the quality is just terrible. something as simple as a fuel tank grommet did not last 6 months before it cracked. Answer from Minispares so far: "Meh..."
Honda transplant...😙
I want a classic mini for my first car but there astronomical for a 17 year old. It's like 4000 a year
I'm 16 and got quoted (pretended I was 17) and I was getting 1000 to 1200 a year insurance?
@@AliSmashover I'm 14 and pretended to be 17
Its all good lads, im 31 but pretend to be 19
Seen it on your insta man what a right pain on the arse
Hahahahahahaha!!!😅
First!
rev it
Damn these chineese parts! This is a very common problem! :(
Hello stranger forgot what u looked like sorry bout your mini disaster boyo