Hi John. I put K-Mac rear bushings on the back and gave me plenty of adjustment for the rear camber adjustment. They’re not cheap but they are built tough. Super simple alignment adjustment. Press out lower bushing and install the K-Mac. Comes with tool for removal of old bushings. Nice people to work with they are in Australia. 👍🏻
The ride is better than the factory shocks. I just got home from work and I take a road that has every variable you could ask for testing. Nice new hwy sections to slow and twist rough bumpy sections and it handled it all flawlessly. The shocks only soak up the quick bumps with the majority of the handling responsibility still resting on the torsion bars so wasn't expecting much. These longer shocks will show their true purpose when off roading.
I followed this line of thinking and installed a set of Bilstein 5100 4-Runner shocks on the front of my ML430. It does indeed give you more travel as the suspension will have more downward travel in rough terrain. The stock shocks limit how far the front suspension can extend. BUT, there is a problem. On the drivers side, the axle is very short, thus creating a situation where the cv joints can bind at extreme extension. I found this out when I had mine on the lift last night. I need to limit the suspension extension just a touch so I do not snap an axle getting through some rough stuff. I ordered 12" limiting straps and will mount the bottom to the shock bolt and the upper to a new tab welded to the frame. I am thinking one inch will keep me safe, but will need to check this before I weld. So, if you are going to do the Toyota shock mod (which works, and I like it), you will need to limit the suspension just a tad. Still much more articulation than factory shocks.
Eew ! You don't have to weld. Look around up there where the top of the shock is mounted and you'll find 1 or 2 holes about 3/8". Drill one out to 1/2" and install a shouldered lifting eye in there. 2600# straight pull. (it will never see that.) Buy two cheap Nylon rigging straps good for 5000#. There's two ways to go about the straps. You can try to measure and buy the perfect size and use the loops in the ends and a screw clevis and all that,,,OR, Get a 20' strap and cut it in half. (Jack up the front about an inch, Leave the wheels on the ground, turn the wheels to the side so you have room to work. And yes you have to do this part from under the truck so you can route the straps & set the correct length.) Stick one end of the strap through the lifting eye and pull it half way through. On the lower control arm, starting from the wheel side, wrap a loose end of the strap twice around the rear "bar"/ casting of the control arm so that you have a leftover tail of 6"~8" +-. Do the same for the other loose end of the strap but bring it to the front, by the shock, two wraps & bring it back to overlap the first loose end 6"~8". Pull it all tight, mark it, then take it out and cut it. Burn 4~5 EVENLY spaced holes in the overlap parts with a hot nail, stuffing in a 1/4" bolt as you go. Reinstall both sides, which should take all of three minutes by now, and use two 1/4" bolts to fasten the ends. Jack up the front so that the wheels are off the ground and the straps are pulled tight. Spin the wheels. If you hear the CV's clunking, you need to tighten up the straps to the next hole and try it again. if it's quiet, you're golden. Making straps in this, or any "custom" method will give you the most extension without exploding CV joints! Now then; After you light the fire at your campsite and crack a few, when you drop your sway bar, (you do drop the sway bar don't you?), It will take you an extra minute to put on the straps. If you're thinking of something cool, and more expensive to leave on the truck all the time, there's a good chance it will be warn, and likely break with the first good Jerk the next time you get to do some real thrashing. Also, It will cost about $40 in drill bits and a $40 tap to get out a broken grade 10 shock bolt. Plus a $20 shock bolt. So if you DO remove the shock bolts, replace them and anti seize! And yes, it's a damn good thing we figured this out on the lift, not off road. Daylighting the tires with TOO long travel shocks could result in a costly mess and a long walk. The best resolve / upgrade is custom A arms & control arms, and everything that goes along with it. (I'm working on it)
Subscribed! I have an 03 ml500 that I'm planning on doing all this shit with lol. Would be great if you could do a video on your winch bumper! Thanks for the videos! 👍
Здравствуйте! Подскажите я правильно понял вы установили задние амортизаторы 4Runner вперед Ml? У меня тоже ML430, в планах провести все тоже самое. Вы красавчик👍🏾 удачи вам Жду ответа и можно больше видео от вас что использовали для лифтинга
I'm in Australia and on Ebay they have a shock listed for 4Runner. If you wouldn't mind clicking on LINK to have a look. Scroll right down to the bottom and it shows me physical dimensions. On the third one along from left to right, their dimension is taken from the eye to above the shoulder at rubber bump stop. Your dimension is taken (from your Video) from the eye to top of the sleeve or protector for want of a better description. They don't match yours exactly, but going by their diagram, I would think they could be the same. Your thoughts appreciated. Thanks, Murray
Hi. May I ask your advice. With the Toyota 4runner Rear Shocks up front. How does it handle if you gave a stock ride height ? Much Thanks. Happy Trails My Friend
@@InfidelGarage so cvd's are work well with new angles, thanks! What about camber? Did you weld new upper arm mounts or just drill new holes? Or left as is?
@@TJkonrad I did new factory Mercedes shocks and struts a couple months ago when I lifted it. Had a broken coil spring on a strut. Picked up the cheapest $35 4Runner shocks to put on the front just for testing. When they go out I'll probably go Bilstein 5100
Hi John. I put K-Mac rear bushings on the back and gave me plenty of adjustment for the rear camber adjustment. They’re not cheap but they are built tough. Super simple alignment adjustment. Press out lower bushing and install the K-Mac. Comes with tool for removal of old bushings. Nice people to work with they are in Australia. 👍🏻
TYVM for this information. Those are very nice alignment bushing kits.
The ride is better than the factory shocks. I just got home from work and I take a road that has every variable you could ask for testing. Nice new hwy sections to slow and twist rough bumpy sections and it handled it all flawlessly. The shocks only soak up the quick bumps with the majority of the handling responsibility still resting on the torsion bars so wasn't expecting much. These longer shocks will show their true purpose when off roading.
how that shocks worked on offroad?just built ml500 w163 on 33 tires,
I followed this line of thinking and installed a set of Bilstein 5100 4-Runner shocks on the front of my ML430. It does indeed give you more travel as the suspension will have more downward travel in rough terrain. The stock shocks limit how far the front suspension can extend. BUT, there is a problem. On the drivers side, the axle is very short, thus creating a situation where the cv joints can bind at extreme extension. I found this out when I had mine on the lift last night. I need to limit the suspension extension just a touch so I do not snap an axle getting through some rough stuff. I ordered 12" limiting straps and will mount the bottom to the shock bolt and the upper to a new tab welded to the frame. I am thinking one inch will keep me safe, but will need to check this before I weld.
So, if you are going to do the Toyota shock mod (which works, and I like it), you will need to limit the suspension just a tad. Still much more articulation than factory shocks.
Eew ! You don't have to weld. Look around up there where the top of the shock is mounted and you'll find 1 or 2 holes about 3/8". Drill one out to 1/2" and install a shouldered lifting eye in there. 2600# straight pull. (it will never see that.) Buy two cheap Nylon rigging straps good for 5000#. There's two ways to go about the straps. You can try to measure and buy the perfect size and use the loops in the ends and a screw clevis and all that,,,OR, Get a 20' strap and cut it in half. (Jack up the front about an inch, Leave the wheels on the ground, turn the wheels to the side so you have room to work. And yes you have to do this part from under the truck so you can route the straps & set the correct length.) Stick one end of the strap through the lifting eye and pull it half way through. On the lower control arm, starting from the wheel side, wrap a loose end of the strap twice around the rear "bar"/ casting of the control arm so that you have a leftover tail of 6"~8" +-. Do the same for the other loose end of the strap but bring it to the front, by the shock, two wraps & bring it back to overlap the first loose end 6"~8". Pull it all tight, mark it, then take it out and cut it. Burn 4~5 EVENLY spaced holes in the overlap parts with a hot nail, stuffing in a 1/4" bolt as you go. Reinstall both sides, which should take all of three minutes by now, and use two 1/4" bolts to fasten the ends. Jack up the front so that the wheels are off the ground and the straps are pulled tight. Spin the wheels. If you hear the CV's clunking, you need to tighten up the straps to the next hole and try it again. if it's quiet, you're golden. Making straps in this, or any "custom" method will give you the most extension without exploding CV joints!
Now then;
After you light the fire at your campsite and crack a few, when you drop your sway bar, (you do drop the sway bar don't you?), It will take you an extra minute to put on the straps. If you're thinking of something cool, and more expensive to leave on the truck all the time, there's a good chance it will be warn, and likely break with the first good Jerk the next time you get to do some real thrashing. Also, It will cost about $40 in drill bits and a $40 tap to get out a broken grade 10 shock bolt. Plus a $20 shock bolt. So if you DO remove the shock bolts, replace them and anti seize!
And yes, it's a damn good thing we figured this out on the lift, not off road. Daylighting the tires with TOO long travel shocks
could result in a costly mess and a long walk.
The best resolve / upgrade is custom A arms & control arms, and everything that goes along with it. (I'm working on it)
Subscribed! I have an 03 ml500 that I'm planning on doing all this shit with lol. Would be great if you could do a video on your winch bumper! Thanks for the videos! 👍
Keep preaching John!! Thanks for the info.
Your videos are so awesome thank you
I have the exact same ml430 as you and working on doing all the same you ha e done
This is useful. Thank you. I have ml500 02’ and looking for more travel.
Здравствуйте! Подскажите я правильно понял вы установили задние амортизаторы 4Runner вперед Ml? У меня тоже ML430, в планах провести все тоже самое. Вы красавчик👍🏾 удачи вам
Жду ответа и можно больше видео от вас что использовали для лифтинга
Thank you for this info. Yeah they didn't intend more than a one inch suspension lift but supposedly can take a three inch body lift...
I'm in Australia and on Ebay they have a shock listed for 4Runner. If you wouldn't mind clicking on LINK to have a look. Scroll right down to the bottom and it shows me physical dimensions. On the third one along from left to right, their dimension is taken from the eye to above the shoulder at rubber bump stop. Your dimension is taken (from your Video) from the eye to top of the sleeve or protector for want of a better description. They don't match yours exactly, but going by their diagram, I would think they could be the same. Your thoughts appreciated. Thanks, Murray
just lifted ml500,what about this shocks,how they worked? pn offroad or on road
Anything similar for the rear?
Dear friend, I bought 4 rear shock absorbers 4runner 1997 for the entire ML ?
Only 2 shocks are needed. The 4Runner's rear shocks fit the front of the ML after indexing the torsion bars 2 teeth and using a shock bolt sleeve
Hi.
May I ask your advice.
With the Toyota 4runner Rear Shocks up front. How does it handle if you gave a stock ride height ?
Much Thanks.
Happy Trails My Friend
No reason for the 4Runner shocks at stock ride height. There are good Bilsteins forbthe front of the ML
More suspension travel - more stress to cvd
How cvd's live with this modification? Is additional travel very helpful? There is diff lock imitation
My axles are holding up fine. Additional travel is needed with more lift up front as the factory shocks are no long enough.
@@InfidelGarage so cvd's are work well with new angles, thanks!
What about camber? Did you weld new upper arm mounts or just drill new holes? Or left as is?
i wonder how about the lifting absorbers kits for 4runner i.e. rear Ironman absorber for 4runner on W163 front. Will it fit?
Have you done all 4 shocks or just the front?
The rear struts are new with 1" spacers that I make and sell. Looking for a coilover option though
@@InfidelGarage new Mercedes shocks or new 4runner shocks?
@@TJkonrad I did new factory Mercedes shocks and struts a couple months ago when I lifted it. Had a broken coil spring on a strut. Picked up the cheapest $35 4Runner shocks to put on the front just for testing. When they go out I'll probably go Bilstein 5100
Thank you so much! Your video is very helping and your replys to questions also. One more thing, how much for the rear strut spacer that you make?
@@TJkonrad $100 shipped in the US, $130 worldwide
На сколько ход больше ?
Which tundra (year and engine) are these shocks from ?
97 4runner 4x4 rear shocks
@@InfidelGarage Is that the 130 series (2nd gen) or the 185 series (3rd Gen) ?
@@ArkadiaII 3rd gen 4Runner
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍