$12 AR Trigger Job - JP Enhanced 3.5 lbs Trigger Spring Kit
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
- Cheap AR15/AR10 Trigger upgrade using JP Enterprises 3.5LBS enhanced Trigger spring kit. In this video we will show you how to achieve a 3.5 LBS Trigger pull with only these springs and a little polishing.
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Host: Jason Brackney
Easy to drop weight pulling it at different angles on the trigger. First pull was about flat, last pull was almost 45 degrees
Installed on Ruger AR 556 , I did no polishing, No problems trigger now has a lighter pull. Great springs.
I had the exact same experience I was so pleased with the lightness of the trigger and then I went to the range. My question have you been to the range? Light trigger equaled light hammer! It would barely dent the primer so basically absolutely worthless. I hope you had better luck and can tell me what I did wrong
@@michaeltuckerman6983 Maybe you’ll have some luck using the stock hammer spring with the lighter trigger spring?
@@michaeltuckerman6983 Did you solve the problem? I have the same rifle and was thinking about buying these springs.
Also my ammo is reloaded with small rifle magnum primers, so they're slightly tougher
Thanks for skipping all the stuff I came here to learn
Jim McEwen I’m pretty sure that TH-cam doesn’t allow specific instruction on any gun related installations or altercations.
@@GatCat I'm pretty sure your statement is completely inaccurate.
@@cypheir "Showing users step-by-step instructions on how to finish a lower receiver in order to complete fabrication of a firearm." Is prohibited under Googles policies featuring firearms on TH-cam. So K C statement is very accurate.
@@durrtybuck8949 Strange, I've seen step-by-step instructions on building an AR, including the lower receiver, on TH-cam.
Kennith Franklin it depends when the videos were published. If channels published those kinds of videos before the new Google policy then those videos were grandfathered and TH-cam keeps the video up without monetary support for ads. Or if you publish the video after the new Google policy your channel could receive a video strike/channel strike and those videos you are watching are likely grandfathered before the new Google/TH-cam policy.
Thanks for making this video. One thing would have helped make it better. When you showed what and where you polished, you didn't hold the part still for a second. If you had held each polished surface still for just 10 seconds, it would have been much easier to see where the polishing was done.
You should put some trigger grease in there along the edges you polished, and maybe some oil (or whatever lube you like) around the trigger pins for smoother rotation, that’ll really get the trigger weight down considering it’s 3.5 lb when it’s completely dry
I have four AR-15. One has the Geissele
SSA-E, another the SD-E and the other two I added a Schmid Tool & Engineering nickel teflon trigger and hammer ($40 total) she the JP spring set. They aren't as good as the Geissele, but the Geissele isn't 5x better. It's a great compromise if you don't have a tin of cash burning holes in your pockets
I have installed these spring kits in three of my AR’s. Great upgrade for a low price.
Very effective and affordable modification. IMO sand paper is not a recommended method as most people are not able to keep from altering surrounding edges/surfaces when hand sanding. Mothers polish and a dremel or drill that has a polisher tip will be much easier to control and more effective in providing a uniform finish. Glass sheen and almost as clean, break.
Just bought my second set today, great springs, makes that pull so smooth
Man I wish he’d show the polishing part
At least one of them
it appeared you were placing the gauge pull arm in the middle of the trigger and pulling straight back for the higher pull weights and the gauge pull arm on the lower part of the trigger and pulling about 15 degrees downward for the lighter pull weights. All things should be equal for an honest and accurate test
Phillip McLeod - makes no difference, I can get a consistent pull weight no matter what angle the gauge is at. Pull gauge angle it a myth. No matter the angle it still take the same amount of weight to break the trigger. Best test is to take multiple test and average the pull weight.
that was the 1st thing my guy noticed so i had to read the comments to see if anyone else did
the angle doesn't effect the weight as much as where hes placing the gauge on the trigger. The trigger pull will always be less if you pull from the bottom of the trigger and the higher up you go the heavier and harder it is to pull. Leverage is not a myth its a fact tactical tuner. But I would like to add this does make a very big difference as far as trigger performance. I have several ar15's and cant afford nice triggers for all of them and if you follow his instructions you will have a way than better milspec trigger. Its a night and day difference when you polish the trigger alone then add in the lighter springs and you actually have a very nice trigger if done properly
+1 Unscientific test
Late to the party, but that was indeed obvious. I use a Lyman trigger gauge and the pull weights will differ depending on the gauge arm placement. Some people!
Good comparison. I installed JP green 3 springs on an AR-15 9mm PCC. No polishing and the Lyman reads 2lb. A bit of take up but not much. Went to range for test: Geco 124gr, dirty MechTec 124gr and American Eagle (red) 150gr all ok. But Freedom Ammunition no go hard primer.
My Ruger AR-5.56 had a trigger pull weight between 8.25 to 9.25 lb. After I replaced it with the J P Enterprises 3.5 LBS trigger spring kit, the pull weight improved to 4.00 to 4.25 lb. I believe the pull weight can be further improved with polishing the various part of the trigger assembly, but I won't be doing any polishing since the pull weight is already good enough for me.
hey bro. i was gonna dump one of these spring kits along with a psa ept in my ar556. but im reading a lot of comments reporting light primer strikes. you encounter anything like that?
@@TomAZ1984 - Yes, I did encounter a few light primer strikes but only with my handloaded ammos using CCI M41 primers and Remington 7 1/2 Bench Rest primers. From my research both primers have cups that are thicker or harder than most other brands of small rifle primers. I now use only my handloaded ammo with CCI 400, Winchester SR and Federal 205 primers and have not had any more primer strike issues.
@@F15ElectricEagle interesting. so you think any off the shelf 5.56/.223 storebought ammo should be fine?
In terms of commercial ammos, here's what I've tried thus far:
Winchester "white box" 55 gr FMJ - No issue
Remington UMC bulk pack 55 gr FMJ - No issue.
Federal American Eagle -55 gr FMJ - No issue
Hornady Varmint Express - 55 gr V max - No issue.
Nosler Match Grade - 69 gr HPBT - No issue
Speer Gold Dot - 55 gr. bonded SP - No issue.
These brands of ammo were shot in batches consisting a minimum total of 60 rounds to a maximum total of 200 rounds.
The factory ammo where I did encounter light primer strike were mil-spec 5.56 x 45. I shot 400 round from a battle pack of surplus German made M.E.N. SS-109 and experienced about 10 light strikes.
@@F15ElectricEagle dude. thank you! i have a bunch of whitebox 55gr. this is just what i was looking for. im really new to shooting so a lot the information i saw before was above my head. thanks for all that research man!
For everyone saying they get light primer strikes. First make sure you didn't put your hammer spring in upside down. If that's good then just get an enhanced firing pin instead of using a milspec hammer spring and defeating the whole purpose. With these lighter springs and an enhanced firing pin you should have no problems even running the cheap steel ammo.
Just got one in a tacpack, so far so good.
I bought two of these kits. I used one on my AR14 with the Palmetto State Armory EPT nickel boron trigger that runs between $25-40. Initially I did get excellent results for about the first 200 rounds using brass ammo only. And then I started getting light strikes. To be fair, I was sighting in a scope and was probably riding the trigger to some extent. Overall, I do like the set up I am using and this particular AR15 is a range gun only for now. I want to put some more rounds under normal use.
The second kit I have I plan to use the PSA EPT trigger again but only use the JP trigger spring and leave the PSA EPT hammer spring because this is for a AR15 7.62x39, This will be shooting steel case (Tula) ammo 99% of the time. I already know the standard EPT trigger will work fine from another rifle. I also know most 3.5lb triggers won't work. So I hope this mix of springs will work.
This would be more believeable if you pulled the trigger from the SAME ANGLE on each test.
So I have a trigger pull tester like you and you do need to put the tester arm on the same point on the trigger and pull at same angle. You did center of trigger on first pull and very bottom with a downward angle on second. Not trying to stir up trouble but it will make the tester read different. Good video and great recommendation on these springs.
From what I have see and tested myself that is a myth. Your testing weight, no matter where the gauge is set as long as your pull is steady and consistent you should get roughy the same reading. No matter we’re the hook is sitting the weight required is the same. If what your saying is true then people would not need trigger jobs for a lighted trigger. They could just simple move their finger to a different location on the trigger for a lighter or heavier trigger.
@@tacticaltuner4217 okay, so of I step on a scale and spread my feet to the corners it will read the same as centered on the middle? If I set my powder pan halfway off the tray it will read the same? Your finger covers most of a trigger but your tester covers 10%. Try it, move the tester to the top clear against the gun then down to the very end. It will be inconsistent.
@@a29s12 yes... stand on a scale, no matter were you put your feet you will weigh the same. yes unless your using a cheap powder scale not matter were you put the pan it should weigh the same. kinds of like a handing fish scale. no matter where you hook the fish the weight is the weight. the only thing on a trigger pull gauge that I can tell can through off the reading is if you over pull it.
@@tacticaltuner4217 LMAO WRONG! Physics disagree with you but whatever. You aren't going to take any friendly advice. Not my loss.
i agree with the comments on the angle at witch the trigger pull is tested. stock was pulled straight back. polished was pulled at 20 degrees. springs installed was pulled at 45 degree angle. the angle affects the effective rate of a spring. this will not be anywhere near the 3 pound pull at straight back. :(
Light trigger Oh yes most definitely but it also made for a light hammer. I left the trigger spring in but had to put the old hammer spring back on now I will just polish the surfaces the old-fashioned way Something Told Me light Springs were a dumb idea and in my case it was. But keep in mind I shoot anyting out of my AR including budget ammo and sometimes they can take a real hammer to go pop
ya I am not sure what is causing the light strikes. we have done about 6 ARs with stock Milspec hammers. polished the parts like I showed in the video and have never had a light strike with any of them. I am not sure what we are doing that other are not but I am sorry to hear that.
I changed out the springs in the mil spec fire control group of my PSA AR 15 lower and replaced them with the jp enterprises Enhanced Reliability AR Fire Control Spring Set JPS3.5T. Haven't checked the pull weight for lack of a device to do so.However it has been noticeably reduced from the mil spec pull weight. I also did a polish job on all the sear surfaces Pryor to this installation which also yielded noticeable improvement with eliminating grittiness and giving a clean break. The issue I'm experiencing is light primer strikes on rimfire with a dedicated PSA 22 lr upper. NO problems with 223 and 9mm. Im looking for some experience or perspective on whether not I could just reinstall the mil spec hammer spring to increase strike power and leave in the JP trigger spring to maintain reduced weight of pull.
Has anyone that installed these experienced more light primer strikes?
I have had people report that to me as well after they have done this work. We have done this to about a half dozen ARs and have not had any issues. if it were a spring issue I would think that we would have ran into the same issue. may be a question for JP.
Trigger springs are easy to install the wrong way. I wonder if people arent installing incorrectly. I've had no issues and I have two of them installed
Yes, you really hex to remove mass from the hammer if you are going to do this.
When you polish the trigger, will it take the nitride-finish off the trigger and risk rusting?
Would’ve been a better vid if showed how to uninstall/install the trigger for the newbies. And provide in-depth logic on polishing those surface areas with sandpaper vs other methods.
Does anyone have a extra pair of these they are willing to gave away
I installed these on my .300blk but I kept experiencing light primer strikes
What grit sand papers were you using to get your polish? Did you wet sand at all?
barmour92 - we started with 320 and went up to 600 with no water.
Will this work with a 7.62x39 ar build or would it cause light primer strikes?
Maybe I’m doing something wrong but Iv had light primer strikes on 55 grain sometimes and on 556 green tip it has multiple light strikes in a single mag so I took it out because it’s completely unreliable
Maybe you just got a bad hammer spring, may want to try another set. Are you having any issues with the hammer cocking?
try a lighter hammer.
Did you just add the springs or did you do any sanding to the parts? 9 out of 10 times this isn’t an issues. You could try a speed hammer
www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/triggers-parts/hammer-parts/hammers/ar-15-speed-hammer-prod7590.aspx
I’ve also had a few light strikes. I picked up a JP titanium firing pin, and no more light strikes. I also picked up and installed the enhanced extractor, ejector, gas rings and silent capture spring for the “enhanced” experience. Works well
Hi
What is the hammer springs poundage supposed to be anybody know
Will this spring work in a we m4 gbbr?
What grit sandpaper paper or other materials did you use to polish the Trigger?
Sidd Kumar - I just used 400, 600 and 800 grit. That’s all, hope this helps.
TacticalTuner awesome video bud thanks.
Don't let the hammer smash into the reciever like that
you couldn't see it on camera but I had a square of cotton pads to stop the impact.
@@tacticaltuner4217 I watched again and it does look like I can see them. Didn't mean to sound like I was calling you out. Maybe inform viewers about that if they are doing the same thing? Good video overall though.
William Nelson - no worries man! Your right we want good info on here! Thanks for watching!
Why not? Serious question..what damage could it cause. Please explain
@@uwont4gitme Most lowers are aluminum and most hammers are steel, therefore if you are a complete idiot and let the hammer slam into the lower receiver thousands of times, you may force in a slight wear and remove the black finish. As for any damage besides cosmetic, there is none. It is just an annoyance that pisses off a lot of crybabies.
Crap I just watched a video where he installed the hammer spring backwards. Now I have to put did JP spring back in to see if I was just stupid
Ya it should work, if your still getting light strikes Try calling JP. If have these in all my ARs and have never had an issue.
1-Where is the link to the spring? 2-After polishing the parts, what do you put on them to prevent rust?
What ever gun lube you use should work fine.
we use Qmaxx Blu on all of our guns and parts to protect against rust.
Any reliability issues. Light primer or accidental discharges?
Mr. Mr. - nope, never had a single issue.
Hey brother I've got a red spring on my hammer and it's so light weight and such a slight amount of pounds on it I'm getting nothing but light primer strikes it's never been fired dont even no if any other problems will arises but right now the hammer spring is so light I feel like it is the cause and its red trigger spring is like a light yellow green help any advice
Is this in a 556 or 308?
Did I learn anything from your video? NO you just repeated the description of jp spring so whats the point
I tried to show we’re you can polish point on your group to smooth up the trigger action. TH-cam allow us to actually show us modifying the parts or they will cut funds for the video. Have to follow their flippen polices.
@@tacticaltuner4217 - I wish someone would come up with a "GunTube" channel in which firearm enthusiasts not only can post the process in various types of gunsmithing but they will get demonetized if their clips on gunsmithing is not sufficiently detailed.
@@F15ElectricEagle I agree man! I funded everything to make these videos for the most part and now they have pretty much stopped monetization on all of our videos. so I am out thousands of dollars that I invested to start this channel. they wouldn't even monetize our scope review videos. we are not allowed to show anything in detail. I wish Brownell's or GunBroker would start a gun channel site being that they have the capitol to do it right. thanks for watching bud.
@@tacticaltuner4217 - Yeah, and MidwayUSA should join too. Larry Potterfield already put out many basic gunsmithing clips on TH-cam. He should remove them and transfer them to such a channel. It doesn't make sense to keep giving food to a dog that keeps on biting your hand when you feed it.
The guy pulled differently on the guage when measuring trigger weight..
Hello, and thanks for watching. This is a myth that has been disproven several times. No matter we’re the gauge hook sets on the trigger is still requires the same amount of reward pull weight to get the sear to disconnect from the hammer. The angle of the gauge to tigger doesn’t matter. The only thing the can throw off your test is if you some how hold high on the trigger, which will effect the natural leverage of the trigger. Also if you continue to pull the gauge after the trigger brakes. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
I will say though I have seen guys with digital scale have issues if not pulled consistently at a 90 degree. That’s was we don’t use them.
Ahhh why did you dry fire it with no padding?!
I couldn't see if he had some block in there, but if not...that's a no no
Have you had any issues with light primer strikes?
Trevor715 - nope sure haven’t bud.
I have had numerous light strikes when using cheap ammo,but none with good brass
I'm getting light strikes with Hornady frontier 75gr bthp
@@skibum1610 With a mil spec trigger?
@@zl8731 well I was with a mil spec trigger and hammer. I switched to using just the trigger spring and a standard strength hammer spring and all was good after that
Will this kit decrease the hammer strike too?
The trigger spring and hammer spring work independently from each other. I think the hammer spring in this kit is slightly LESS stronger. If using this spring kit with a mil-spec trigger group I would use a mil-spec hammer spring for an AR-15 chambered in 223/556. I put a heavier hammer spring and lighter trigger spring in my AR 15 chambered in 7.62 x 39 with an enhanced firing pin for steel cased ammo which often has harder primers.
@tedlofland3446 awesome thanks man
What sand paper wtf
I just bubba it with the dremmel in 5 minutes and destroy my entire lower before making it work again
Yeah, we don't want to see it done.
the only reason we cant show actual work is due to youtube rules.
bs
Recently installed this on mine. I have issues with my trigger not resetting.
Nate goldsberry - is remove the trigger, make sure you didn’t sand to much on the sear or that the sear isn’t broken or out of spec.
Dude I didn't even send anything down lol this is my first build but I will polish it before I go shoot this weekend.
Awesome job on the reply though. Honestly wasnt expecting one let alone it being so fast
Nate goldsberry - try swapping the old spring back in. If the problem goes away then it’s an issue with the JP springs and I would call them for a replacement. If the problem still exist then I would buy new trigger parts. They should only be a few dollars. Hope this helps.
I know this is old but I'm curious what happened with this. I don't see how a different hammer spring, installed correctly, could keep it from resetting. What happened with this?