2001 4.0 on my explorer sport. During a cold start the chains make noise for 1 or 2 seconds max and then are completely quiet after that both when idling and driving at any RPM. Even if the engine is turned off after completely warming up and then turned back on 1 or 2 hours later the chains won’t rattle when started back up… I replaced both tensioners using OEM ford parts and this made no difference in getting rid of the 2 seconds of cold startup rattle that was present before replacing both tensioners and the reason I replaced them in the first place. When I removed the old tensioners they both seemed to still have good resistance when trying to compress them compared to the new ones which indicates the old ones were “probably” still ok. Again, after those brief 2 seconds of rattle when started up when the engines is completely cold (ie been sitting for more than a few hours) it’s quiet and it never rattles or makes noise any other time. One other thing to note is that if I do the flooded crank start method before starting it when cold, it will NOT make the 1 or 2 second rattle. (I will hold the gas pedal to the floor and turn and hold the key to crank the engine but not turn it over until after about 10 seconds and when I see the oil pressure gauge move to the middle, I let go of the gas pedal and start it) If I cold start it using this method it will NOT make the 1 or 2 seconds of startup rattle. Is this my guides that are broken or is this normal to have a second or two of rattle when the engine is completely cold to build oil pressure and have it get to the tensioners so they tighten up to hold the chain? I’ve had this vehicle for a little over a month now and the symptom has stayed exactly same even after replacing the tensioners and changing the oil using high mileage oil and Motorcraft filter. I just want to know if this is normal or if it’s not and I should get rid of the vehicle if a larger problem is imminent.
Great job on this video and the suggestion to use Ford parts. Did the whole job in about 4 hours. I actually had more trouble with the rear tensioner than the front/top one.
Thanks for the info. I installed the rear one today but didn't prime it. Problem sounded worse than before. So I put the old one back in. After watching this video, I primed the new one. I will install after work tomorrow. Thanks again hopefully it does the trick. I've only got 150000 on the motor.
When trying to clean up threads, just use a hacksaw or Dremel tool with cut off blades and cut about three grooves in the old tensioner threads like a tap has only really small. It really works well, I have made a lot of taps out of bolts when working in the boonies on equipment to clean up the threads. If ya don't know what the boonies is you must be a Yankee. LOL
Priming tensioners = cross-threading 😖 If you don't start your car for a few days, the tensioners will become 'un-primed' i.e. empty of oil. That's what the spring is for. Weak spring is why you're replacing them. Strong spring should apply sufficient tension at start-up until it gets oil in it and the 'priming' is done for you.
I just replaced them. Even after sitting an hour it rattles on start. I replaced both and my passenger side in the rear still rattles on cold start. I’m stumped
@@ChrisC1946 Push gas peddle to floor and hold for 5 to 10 seconds while cranking to prime. Engine will not start. This also should reduce engine flare, as the 4.0 starts at high RPM without oil pressure. -- If this does not solve cold startup rattle, the internal timing chain tensioner is broken. Should also rattle at high RPM. -- If you bought after-market parts, rate of defect is very high. Stick with OEM Ford parts.
@@C0Y0TE5hey i have a 01 4.0 on my explorer and I during a cold start the chains rattle for 1 or 2 seconds max and then are completely quiet after that when idling and driving. Even if the engine is turned off after warming up and then back on 1 or 2 hours later the chains won’t rattle when started back up… I’ve replaced both tensioners using OEM ford parts and this made no difference with the 2 seconds of cold start rattle that was present before replacing both tensioners. Again after those brief 2 seconds of rattle when started up when the engines is completely cold (ie been sitting for more than a few hours) it never rattles or makes noise any other time. One other thing to note is that if I do the flooded crank start method before starting it cold it will NOT make the 1 or 2 second rattle. (I will hold the gas pedal to the floor and turn and hold the key to crank the engine but not turn it over until I see the oil pressure gauge go to the middle, then let go of the gas pedal and start it) If I cold start it using this method it will NOT make the 1 or 2 seconds of startup rattle. Is this my guides or is this normal to have a second of rattle when completely cold?
@@XDLaughPLUR It indicates that the oil is draining too fast out of the tensioners...?Ford has some bulletins on how to modify, but many comments I saw indicate that they may not work. Also, I have seen complaints about aftermarket tensioners. I replaced mine with Ford parts, but they did not help. Mine rattles only after sitting for many hours.
Literally 8 bolts that hold the intake on it’s way easier to lift the intake up than it is to reach under it like you did. Also torque spec for those tensioners is only 33 ft-lbs
Don't prime: the spring needs to be able to give so installation is possible without cross-threading possibility. -- After assembly, push gas peddle to floor and hold for 5 to 10 seconds while cranking to prime. Engine will not start. This also should reduce engine flare, as the 4.0 starts at high RPM without oil pressure 32 -45 foot pounds
Hey at 1:17 did the original tensioners have washers/gaskets on them when you removed them? I' m looking online on various websites that sell the OEM motorcraft tensioners and it appears none of them come with washers/gaskets...So 1.) did the original tensioners you removed have washers on them and 2.) If not then do you have to/can you just use any washers that fit on the tensioner? Thanks
Get genuine Ford parts! When first I did my truck I used tensioners from Advance Auto and they would not prime and when I put them in the truck, the chains rattled continuously. Putting in Genuine Ford parts solved the problem. They're more expensive, but it's a price you've got to pay.
dirtbike5100 ok cool I may have to do that to my ranger with the 4.0 and I think that's the noise I know it's not a knock in engine but I'll find out by my mechanic
Thank you. I watched the video yesterday and my new tensioner arrived today. I ordered a aftermarket tensioner too and the spring is weaker then on the really old OEM tensioner. So i will return it and i already have ordered a OEM tensioner. One question should i replace both tensioners at the same time or doesn't it matter?
i removed mine without removing anything but the thermal sensor clip, and air inlet hose. lol. but then im a mechanic, not an automotive parts changer.i used an open end 1 1/16 wrench, but maybe everyone doesnt have one of those. lol
I am in the process of doing this right now. I already successfully installed the rear tensioner but am having trouble with the front. It threads in about halfway and then doesn't go in anymore. Does this mean I cross threaded it? Would cutting the old tensioner and screwing it in fix this?
I apologize for the late response. Did you prime the tensioners with oil? What may be happening is that the tensioner is threading in until it begins to make contact with the timing chain cassette, at which time you begin to feel a lot of resistance because you are fighting the pressure of the tensioner. It is also possible that you may have cross-threaded it as we did in the video. That's why we had to cut apart the old tensioner; we used it as a make-shift tap to chase the threads. If you are unsure I would recommend having a professional take a look. If those threads get stripped out you'll be up a creek. Let me know if you have more questions.
Thanks for replying! Turns out I did crossthread the hole. I ended up taking the intake manifold off and retapping the hole with a tap. Everything is put back together and the truck runs great now! I used motorcraft tensioners and made sure to prime them. Thanks for replying love the videos man
I tore the front cover off and replaced my main guides and tensioners, but this was the actual culprit of the rattle. 15 hours down the drain. Just my luck...
motoforlyfe Bad 02 sensor, bad intake gaskets, radiator leak, bad gas cap, gunky IAC, bad ball joints, rusty struts. Gotta love an exploder! At least it was a free car!
Loved the video but couldn't really figure out what you had to cut?... Does this have to be done for all?... And looked up pricing for the parts and it was more around $100 for both and not $200 you had mentioned in another comment. What washers are needed?... Thought it was just the two tensioners? Thanks again for your last response!!
It is not essential to cut the old tensioner as we did. The only reason we did it is that we were having a hard time with the threads and wanted to make sure they were good before trying to put the new one in. The washers are needed, one for each tensioner. Without them your tensioners will leak oil like a sieve. I don't know where you found the price of 100 but my advice to you is to be certain that they are genuine ford parts. I do not recommend aftermarket parts.
Did you buy the tensioners out of autozone or did you go to the ford dealer and buy them from there? I have an explorer thats doing the same rattling noise but it stops when its all warmed up do you think its the same problem?? Great video by the way!
Whatever you do, do NOT buy auto zone tensioners. Buy genuine Ford parts or you will be asking for trouble. It's hard to be certain whether or not they will solve the problem but they are probably a good starting point
Would this be the same for a 2007 4.0 SOHC mustang? Hearing some sort of intermittent slap noise coming from under the passenger side valve cover. Thinking it has something to do with the cam chain. Do you think replacing just the tensioner would work?
Yes, the same OilPressurized TimingTensioners are in all 1997~2001 Ford V6~4.0L~SOHC engines. Various other items are different: Intakes, ValveCovers, etc.
I'm not sure what noise you are referring to, but these engines do make somewhat or a steady clicking noise at idle. We think it is the injectors pulsing.
Yes, I have this same car, that click was normal. The click that the tensioners cause is worse and intermittent (usually until pressure gauge is normal / car is hot) until the guides fully break (then it's constant and you might as well replace the whole chain).
I don't know if I should feel impressed or scared that my 4.0 after 181,000 miles I never had the the tensioners replaced. It's an 05 explorer and they just started to raddle maybe about a thousand miles ago. Debating if I want to put the time and effort into it to see if those are even the cause. Implying the damage hasn't already been done to the timing chain.
If it only rattles at startup you might want to consider replacing the tensioners. The springs are probably worn out and if you replace them you may find that the startup rattle goes away. However, in my experience, if too much wear has already taken place, replacing the tensioners will not help with startup rattle.
It doesnt rattle on a cold start. Only after it has moved for about 5-10 min. I've just concluded that It'll be retired until it just dies. Hardly not worth a trade in except for scrap and thats not much. But it had a good run. Owned it at 5,000 miles and made it up to 180,000 miles
@@petipeti8564 I never opened it up. But i concluded the tensioner was shot on the timing chain. I ultimately didnt peruse it because my transfer case was leaking an I couldn't even open it to add new oil to it. As well the transmission was slipping real bad after I replaced it. With that plus the timing chain rattle I just retired the guy. It wasnt worth the money to fix it as everything was breaking. It was so close to 200,000miles too
You prime them in the vehicle pull plug wires from coil pack after labeling where they go then crank the engine for a few then recheck your oil add if needed, rehook your wires back on coil pack then start
Push gas pedal all the way before cranking the engine. This tells the computer not to introduce fuel. Crank until oul pressure gauge comes alive. Stop cranking. Let off has pedal. Start normally
This a problem on the 2011 4.0 or did they fix the issue ? I had a 3.0 it was good to me 2wd sucked though I'm thinking I may get another ranger in 4wd but all they make is the 4.0
I got around to finally picking up the parts from Ford to do this. Both tensioners and washers $210. Going on my '03 that just has 69k miles on it. Has always had the intermittent 1 second rattle at start up after sitting for a few days, nothing more. Hope I don't break the thermostat housing is my only fear but if I do I know where they sell new ones....lol. What was the difficulty in getting the top one to thread in in this video? Just curious.
klc317 What really makes it hard is the fact that you have to fight the tensioners. After having primed them with oil they are very stiff and so you are fighting that pressure while trying to screw them in. After having some discussions with others who have done their tensioners, I'm not certain that they actually need be primed. This would make them a lot easier to install, but I don't know if I'd try it or not. You definitely don't want to have a problem with air stuck in them or something like that.
I got the whole pile of other parts as well in the mail today, the thermostat housings, new thermostat, all the seals, O-rings, and new sensors and retainers, etc. all OEM Ford stuff. Really didn't cost that much more ....might as well do it all once and right IMO. I'm kinda wondering if I can pull the fuel pump relay before I take stuff apart and run the engine out of gas. Then crank it a little once everything is put back together to get oil pressure to the tensioners before reinstalling the relay without priming them first so I don't have as much as a fight installing them and risking cross threading. I'll do some more reading and see, not in a giant hurry anyway. Its cold in the garage and the Ranger is not an every day driver so I can wait until warmer weather. Thanks again for the informative videos and replies!
+klc317 Anytime. Pulling the relay and cranking the engine will definitely get oil to the tensioners. The question is whether or not an air pocket in the tensioner itself could prevent it from fully filling with oil and working correctly. I don't know the answer to that however.
I did the job today.....just to try it out I did not prime the tensioners, seemed to work just fine. Just about 1 second of noise until the oil pressure took over....no problems. I also did the entire thermostat housing, new thermostat, sensors, seals, and O-rings...everything all OEM Ford parts. That was pretty tricky trying to fish all that housing stuff around and not damage the new one but thanks to your video and a few others it wasn't a big deal....went in easier than the old one came out once you figure out how to get all the crap manipulated and out of your way. And yea, some some of 8mm offset ratcheting wrench and some swivel sockets sure made those bolts easier!! Successful, no leaks, just some oil burnoff on the exhaust manifold from the passenger side tensioner leaking out when I removed it. Got it hot, drove it, let it cool off, burped some more air out of the cooling system, and all is well as far as I can tell.
On both? Or just one? If so which one? I removed both of my original factory tensioners but only the one in the passenger wheel well had a washer. The one under the hood did not
You don't, when you insert the tensioner, a small circular "gallery" of oil is between the dot on the block and the dot on tensioner, which will flow oil inside the tensioner no matter the position of the holes. Just tighten till is hard or to the torque spec.
So why do you need to prime these... I mean I get the concept but I can not find any other information about doing this to these before you put them in.
Keylitho When I replaced them in my truck, I had problems with them not keeping tension on the chain and after doing some research I came across a few TH-cam videos suggesting that I prime them. However, I later found out that the reason my tensioners weren't working was that they were not genuine Ford parts. It's possible then if you don't prime them but use Ford parts you will be fine, but I decided not to take the chance with the truck in the video.
Ok.. Good to know... I just replaced mine but just lubed them up a bit and did not prime them... (they are not OEM) and they seem to be ok... But I have not dove it around to see if all noise is stopped at all RPM's..
Keylitho The non-OEM ones I put in my truck were from Advance Auto. Brand was called SA Gear, I think. I started the truck up and the chains rattled continuously at any RPM. If it's not making noise at idle, that's a good start!
+the mechanic it has been subject to debate. Originally I thought that was the case however some folks have commented saying they did not prime them and they only rattled for a few seconds.
motoforlyfe check out my videos and let me know what you think it could be valves ticking it's not loud but I just did the compete timing so I'm worried about it by the way it never goes away
my chiltons for 2000-2008 says 32 ft lbs for the timing chain tensioners. that's the torque on a NEW washer. I've read elsewhere that if you reuse a washer that it's a higher torque. .
If using OEM motorcraft tensioners do both need o rings/gaskets or just the passenger side one? I removed both but my old one in the engine bay did not have an oring. There are so many conflicting answers online
Is it possible that the cold start noise I'm hearing at the right rear of the engine is maybe just the tensioner losing it's prime overnight, or is it the cassette?
+Manuel Galvan I have not heard of the timing jumping while doing this job however it may be possible and I would avoid this job if you aren't real experienced
$60 at www.rockauto.com plus shipping. like *mustang* said above, "A lot of people don't know that Cloyes is the ORIGINAL manufacturer of a lot of Ford timing components. These tensioners included." .
I like how a simple job just like all the ones i do go from daylight to night time lol
2001 4.0 on my explorer sport. During a cold start the chains make noise for 1 or 2 seconds max and then are completely quiet after that both when idling and driving at any RPM. Even if the engine is turned off after completely warming up and then turned back on 1 or 2 hours later the chains won’t rattle when started back up…
I replaced both tensioners using OEM ford parts and this made no difference in getting rid of the 2 seconds of cold startup rattle that was present before replacing both tensioners and the reason I replaced them in the first place. When I removed the old tensioners they both seemed to still have good resistance when trying to compress them compared to the new ones which indicates the old ones were “probably” still ok.
Again, after those brief 2 seconds of rattle when started up when the engines is completely cold (ie been sitting for more than a few hours) it’s quiet and it never rattles or makes noise any other time.
One other thing to note is that if I do the flooded crank start method before starting it when cold, it will NOT make the 1 or 2 second rattle. (I will hold the gas pedal to the floor and turn and hold the key to crank the engine but not turn it over until after about 10 seconds and when I see the oil pressure gauge move to the middle, I let go of the gas pedal and start it) If I cold start it using this method it will NOT make the 1 or 2 seconds of startup rattle.
Is this my guides that are broken or is this normal to have a second or two of rattle when the engine is completely cold to build oil pressure and have it get to the tensioners so they tighten up to hold the chain? I’ve had this vehicle for a little over a month now and the symptom has stayed exactly same even after replacing the tensioners and changing the oil using high mileage oil and Motorcraft filter. I just want to know if this is normal or if it’s not and I should get rid of the vehicle if a larger problem is imminent.
Great job on this video and the suggestion to use Ford parts. Did the whole job in about 4 hours. I actually had more trouble with the rear tensioner than the front/top one.
Thanks for the info. I installed the rear one today but didn't prime it. Problem sounded worse than before. So I put the old one back in. After watching this video, I primed the new one. I will install after work tomorrow. Thanks again hopefully it does the trick. I've only got 150000 on the motor.
Updates did it work ?
When trying to clean up threads, just use a hacksaw or Dremel tool with cut off blades and cut about three grooves in the old tensioner threads like a tap has only really small. It really works well, I have made a lot of taps out of bolts when working in the boonies on equipment to clean up the threads. If ya don't know what the boonies is you must be a Yankee. LOL
Priming tensioners = cross-threading 😖
If you don't start your car for a few days, the tensioners will become 'un-primed' i.e. empty of oil. That's what the spring is for. Weak spring is why you're replacing them.
Strong spring should apply sufficient tension at start-up until it gets oil in it and the 'priming' is done for you.
I just replaced them. Even after sitting an hour it rattles on start. I replaced both and my passenger side in the rear still rattles on cold start. I’m stumped
@Cristiano Correia Sounds like your guides may have already been decintegrated. So sadly the tenshioners might not do anything.
@@ChrisC1946 Push gas peddle to floor and hold for 5 to 10 seconds while cranking to prime. Engine will not start. This also should reduce engine flare, as the 4.0 starts at high RPM without oil pressure.
-- If this does not solve cold startup rattle, the internal timing chain tensioner is broken. Should also rattle at high RPM.
-- If you bought after-market parts, rate of defect is very high. Stick with OEM Ford parts.
@@C0Y0TE5hey i have a 01 4.0 on my explorer and I during a cold start the chains rattle for 1 or 2 seconds max and then are completely quiet after that when idling and driving. Even if the engine is turned off after warming up and then back on 1 or 2 hours later the chains won’t rattle when started back up…
I’ve replaced both tensioners using OEM ford parts and this made no difference with the 2 seconds of cold start rattle that was present before replacing both tensioners. Again after those brief 2 seconds of rattle when started up when the engines is completely cold (ie been sitting for more than a few hours) it never rattles or makes noise any other time.
One other thing to note is that if I do the flooded crank start method before starting it cold it will NOT make the 1 or 2 second rattle. (I will hold the gas pedal to the floor and turn and hold the key to crank the engine but not turn it over until I see the oil pressure gauge go to the middle, then let go of the gas pedal and start it) If I cold start it using this method it will NOT make the 1 or 2 seconds of startup rattle.
Is this my guides or is this normal to have a second of rattle when completely cold?
@@XDLaughPLUR It indicates that the oil is draining too fast out of the tensioners...?Ford has some bulletins on how to modify, but many comments I saw indicate that they may not work. Also, I have seen complaints about aftermarket tensioners. I replaced mine with Ford parts, but they did not help. Mine rattles only after sitting for many hours.
Literally 8 bolts that hold the intake on it’s way easier to lift the intake up than it is to reach under it like you did. Also torque spec for those tensioners is only 33 ft-lbs
Don't prime: the spring needs to be able to give so installation is possible without cross-threading possibility.
-- After assembly, push gas peddle to floor and hold for 5 to 10 seconds while cranking to prime. Engine will not start. This also should reduce engine flare, as the 4.0 starts at high RPM without oil pressure
32 -45 foot pounds
You should change you iac valve too, mine went out. They way u know if it’s bad is if it bogs down for a second or two when u start it up.
Don't forget to buy the gasket for the tensioner! It's 32 ft lbs for the right head tensioner. 02 v6 4.0 SOHC.
after market parts come with gasket. OEM ford do not. OEM parts do not need a gasket?
Thanks, good explicative video. regards from venezuela
Thank you my friend#
Well done Mate!! Good thing I didn't go eh!! I heard you pulled an all nighter!!☺
We had to burn the midnight oil that's for sure!
Hey at 1:17 did the original tensioners have washers/gaskets on them when you removed them? I' m looking online on various websites that sell the OEM motorcraft tensioners and it appears none of them come with washers/gaskets...So 1.) did the original tensioners you removed have washers on them and 2.) If not then do you have to/can you just use any washers that fit on the tensioner? Thanks
Get genuine Ford parts! When first I did my truck I used tensioners from Advance Auto and they would not prime and when I put them in the truck, the chains rattled continuously. Putting in Genuine Ford parts solved the problem. They're more expensive, but it's a price you've got to pay.
dirtbike5100 what's the price difference please let me know
It will cost you less than $200 for both tensioners from Ford. Don't use anything else!
dirtbike5100 ok cool I may have to do that to my ranger with the 4.0 and I think that's the noise I know it's not a knock in engine but I'll find out by my mechanic
How did you prim them?
Thank you. I watched the video yesterday and my new tensioner arrived today. I ordered a aftermarket tensioner too and the spring is weaker then on the really old OEM tensioner. So i will return it and i already have ordered a OEM tensioner. One question should i replace both tensioners at the same time or doesn't it matter?
i removed mine without removing anything but the thermal sensor clip, and air inlet hose. lol. but then im a mechanic, not an automotive parts changer.i used an open end 1 1/16 wrench, but maybe everyone doesnt have one of those. lol
Thank you for the how to. Very well done.
Thank you Bobby!
I am in the process of doing this right now. I already successfully installed the rear tensioner but am having trouble with the front. It threads in about halfway and then doesn't go in anymore. Does this mean I cross threaded it? Would cutting the old tensioner and screwing it in fix this?
I apologize for the late response. Did you prime the tensioners with oil? What may be happening is that the tensioner is threading in until it begins to make contact with the timing chain cassette, at which time you begin to feel a lot of resistance because you are fighting the pressure of the tensioner. It is also possible that you may have cross-threaded it as we did in the video. That's why we had to cut apart the old tensioner; we used it as a make-shift tap to chase the threads. If you are unsure I would recommend having a professional take a look. If those threads get stripped out you'll be up a creek. Let me know if you have more questions.
Thanks for replying! Turns out I did crossthread the hole. I ended up taking the intake manifold off and retapping the hole with a tap. Everything is put back together and the truck runs great now! I used motorcraft tensioners and made sure to prime them. Thanks for replying love the videos man
I tore the front cover off and replaced my main guides and tensioners, but this was the actual culprit of the rattle. 15 hours down the drain. Just my luck...
+Brad Harper at least you don't have to worry about the guides being worn out anymore!
motoforlyfe Bad 02 sensor, bad intake gaskets, radiator leak, bad gas cap, gunky IAC, bad ball joints, rusty struts. Gotta love an exploder! At least it was a free car!
Loved the video but couldn't really figure out what you had to cut?... Does this have to be done for all?... And looked up pricing for the parts and it was more around $100 for both and not $200 you had mentioned in another comment. What washers are needed?... Thought it was just the two tensioners? Thanks again for your last response!!
It is not essential to cut the old tensioner as we did. The only reason we did it is that we were having a hard time with the threads and wanted to make sure they were good before trying to put the new one in. The washers are needed, one for each tensioner. Without them your tensioners will leak oil like a sieve. I don't know where you found the price of 100 but my advice to you is to be certain that they are genuine ford parts. I do not recommend aftermarket parts.
Did you buy the tensioners out of autozone or did you go to the ford dealer and buy them from there? I have an explorer thats doing the same rattling noise but it stops when its all warmed up do you think its the same problem?? Great video by the way!
Whatever you do, do NOT buy auto zone tensioners. Buy genuine Ford parts or you will be asking for trouble. It's hard to be certain whether or not they will solve the problem but they are probably a good starting point
You don’t have to worry about it jumping time? I’d like to do this on my 06 Explorer
Would this be the same for a 2007 4.0 SOHC mustang? Hearing some sort of intermittent slap noise coming from under the passenger side valve cover. Thinking it has something to do with the cam chain. Do you think replacing just the tensioner would work?
Yes, the same OilPressurized TimingTensioners are in all 1997~2001 Ford V6~4.0L~SOHC engines. Various other items are different: Intakes, ValveCovers, etc.
correction 1997~2011
Very informative! Nice work, guys! :) Jack
Thanks Jack!
is that steady clicking at the end when it was idling normal? because that what my motor sounds like and I'm not familiar with fords.
I'm not sure what noise you are referring to, but these engines do make somewhat or a steady clicking noise at idle. We think it is the injectors pulsing.
Yes, I have this same car, that click was normal. The click that the tensioners cause is worse and intermittent (usually until pressure gauge is normal / car is hot) until the guides fully break (then it's constant and you might as well replace the whole chain).
hey. I have bought two new tensioners and neither of them prime. made by two different manufacturers. what am I doing wrong?
Old video now, but you do not need to remove the T-stat housing. Just remove the coolant temp sensor in that T-stat housing.
i part a new Timing Chain Tensioner now it leaking oil. i did not use a Torque Wrench. is that why it leaking?
I don't know if I should feel impressed or scared that my 4.0 after 181,000 miles I never had the the tensioners replaced. It's an 05 explorer and they just started to raddle maybe about a thousand miles ago. Debating if I want to put the time and effort into it to see if those are even the cause. Implying the damage hasn't already been done to the timing chain.
If it only rattles at startup you might want to consider replacing the tensioners. The springs are probably worn out and if you replace them you may find that the startup rattle goes away. However, in my experience, if too much wear has already taken place, replacing the tensioners will not help with startup rattle.
It doesnt rattle on a cold start. Only after it has moved for about 5-10 min. I've just concluded that It'll be retired until it just dies. Hardly not worth a trade in except for scrap and thats not much. But it had a good run. Owned it at 5,000 miles and made it up to 180,000 miles
Last Gen Gamers Hi! What was the problem with yours? My 4.0 SOHC do same like yours.
@@petipeti8564 I never opened it up. But i concluded the tensioner was shot on the timing chain. I ultimately didnt peruse it because my transfer case was leaking an I couldn't even open it to add new oil to it. As well the transmission was slipping real bad after I replaced it. With that plus the timing chain rattle I just retired the guy. It wasnt worth the money to fix it as everything was breaking. It was so close to 200,000miles too
do you have the front and rear part no# for the tensioners.. all i can find are Cloyes branded.
thanks ccm
Do the oil holes from the tensioner and block have to line up?
yes. That is why if the part comes with a gasket, use it. If OEM FOrd, no gasket, do not add one
How do you end up cutting the end of the tentioner?? I cant get mine back in for the life of me and i need to try to find the rivits. Thanks
You prime them in the vehicle pull plug wires from coil pack after labeling where they go then crank the engine for a few then recheck your oil add if needed, rehook your wires back on coil pack then start
Push gas pedal all the way before cranking the engine. This tells the computer not to introduce fuel. Crank until oul pressure gauge comes alive. Stop cranking. Let off has pedal. Start normally
.. or take out the fuel pump fuse
This a problem on the 2011 4.0 or did they fix the issue ? I had a 3.0 it was good to me 2wd sucked though I'm thinking I may get another ranger in 4wd but all they make is the 4.0
Supposedly they fixed the issue but I believe it still exists. I have an 06 w/40k on the motor and it rattles on startup.
What sound was it making before u did that
How do you know if they're bad? do they make a noise?
I got around to finally picking up the parts from Ford to do this. Both tensioners and washers $210. Going on my '03 that just has 69k miles on it. Has always had the intermittent 1 second rattle at start up after sitting for a few days, nothing more. Hope I don't break the thermostat housing is my only fear but if I do I know where they sell new ones....lol.
What was the difficulty in getting the top one to thread in in this video? Just curious.
klc317 What really makes it hard is the fact that you have to fight the tensioners. After having primed them with oil they are very stiff and so you are fighting that pressure while trying to screw them in. After having some discussions with others who have done their tensioners, I'm not certain that they actually need be primed. This would make them a lot easier to install, but I don't know if I'd try it or not. You definitely don't want to have a problem with air stuck in them or something like that.
dirtbike5100 ok, thanks.
I got the whole pile of other parts as well in the mail today, the thermostat housings, new thermostat, all the seals, O-rings, and new sensors and retainers, etc. all OEM Ford stuff. Really didn't cost that much more ....might as well do it all once and right IMO. I'm kinda wondering if I can pull the fuel pump relay before I take stuff apart and run the engine out of gas. Then crank it a little once everything is put back together to get oil pressure to the tensioners before reinstalling the relay without priming them first so I don't have as much as a fight installing them and risking cross threading.
I'll do some more reading and see, not in a giant hurry anyway. Its cold in the garage and the Ranger is not an every day driver so I can wait until warmer weather. Thanks again for the informative videos and replies!
+klc317 Anytime. Pulling the relay and cranking the engine will definitely get oil to the tensioners. The question is whether or not an air pocket in the tensioner itself could prevent it from fully filling with oil and working correctly. I don't know the answer to that however.
I did the job today.....just to try it out I did not prime the tensioners, seemed to work just fine. Just about 1 second of noise until the oil pressure took over....no problems. I also did the entire thermostat housing, new thermostat, sensors, seals, and O-rings...everything all OEM Ford parts. That was pretty tricky trying to fish all that housing stuff around and not damage the new one but thanks to your video and a few others it wasn't a big deal....went in easier than the old one came out once you figure out how to get all the crap manipulated and out of your way. And yea, some some of 8mm offset ratcheting wrench and some swivel sockets sure made those bolts easier!! Successful, no leaks, just some oil burnoff on the exhaust manifold from the passenger side tensioner leaking out when I removed it. Got it hot, drove it, let it cool off, burped some more air out of the cooling system, and all is well as far as I can tell.
Is there a washer that goes on that bolt tensioner?
yes
On both? Or just one? If so which one? I removed both of my original factory tensioners but only the one in the passenger wheel well had a washer. The one under the hood did not
Great Video !!! You looked good Driving Roadkings Hot Rod :)))
Thanks mate#
Do you need to line up the holes on the tensioner?
You don't, when you insert the tensioner, a small circular "gallery" of oil is between the dot on the block and the dot on tensioner, which will flow oil inside the tensioner no matter the position of the holes.
Just tighten till is hard or to the torque spec.
Hi...does bad tensioners make the truck start slower?
No, just lets the timing chain guide run loose & rattle & eventually break.
So why do you need to prime these... I mean I get the concept but I can not find any other information about doing this to these before you put them in.
Keylitho When I replaced them in my truck, I had problems with them not keeping tension on the chain and after doing some research I came across a few TH-cam videos suggesting that I prime them. However, I later found out that the reason my tensioners weren't working was that they were not genuine Ford parts. It's possible then if you don't prime them but use Ford parts you will be fine, but I decided not to take the chance with the truck in the video.
Ok.. Good to know... I just replaced mine but just lubed them up a bit and did not prime them... (they are not OEM) and they seem to be ok... But I have not dove it around to see if all noise is stopped at all RPM's..
Keylitho The non-OEM ones I put in my truck were from Advance Auto. Brand was called SA Gear, I think. I started the truck up and the chains rattled continuously at any RPM. If it's not making noise at idle, that's a good start!
The ones I got are made by Cloyes Gear & Products, Inc. I will keep my fingers crossed... If not then I will go get the ones from Ford.
Any luck with the cloyes brand tensioners?
so if you don't prime it it will rattle constantly?
+the mechanic it has been subject to debate. Originally I thought that was the case however some folks have commented saying they did not prime them and they only rattled for a few seconds.
motoforlyfe check out my videos and let me know what you think it could be valves ticking it's not loud but I just did the compete timing so I'm worried about it by the way it never goes away
No they will pressurize with oil pump just takes a few seconds...
did you use the old washer?what is the torque spec on both
+STEEVE DAVID Nicolas we ordered a new washer. I do not remember the torque spec but you should be able to find it on Google fairly easily.
Ok thanks
my chiltons for 2000-2008 says 32 ft lbs for the timing chain tensioners.
that's the torque on a NEW washer.
I've read elsewhere that if you reuse a washer that it's a higher torque.
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If using OEM motorcraft tensioners do both need o rings/gaskets or just the passenger side one? I removed both but my old one in the engine bay did not have an oring. There are so many conflicting answers online
im haveing problems getting my left hand side tensioner in how did u do it? it goes half way but then cross threads. how did u get it in?
Thanks
How did you change the volume reduction plug the plug won’t come out
Tweezers, like the kids game "Operation".
Is it possible that the cold start noise I'm hearing at the right rear of the engine is maybe just the tensioner losing it's prime overnight, or is it the cassette?
Does anyone have a video showing what this sounds like before changing the tensioners?
sounds like the engine is pinging only louder,on cold starts is the loudest.
If really bad, the engine sounds like a diesel.
I was instructed not to prime them coming from the dealership
Put some oil in new tensioners, but not full, or they will be too hard to get threads started.
The timing won't jump? Doesn't need to b timed?
+Manuel Galvan I have not heard of the timing jumping while doing this job however it may be possible and I would avoid this job if you aren't real experienced
In your opinion would bad tensioners cause the oil light to come on at idle or is that another problem ( oil pump) ?
Sounds like another problem to me
Looks like im going to be needing to do this unfortunately.
How much do those tensioners cost?
Approx. $200 for the two tensioners and matching washers
$60 at www.rockauto.com plus shipping.
like *mustang* said above, "A lot of people don't know that Cloyes is the ORIGINAL manufacturer of a lot of Ford timing components. These tensioners included."
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What kind of oil do you use on tensioner
Annabell Silva Regular motor oil same as what the engine calls for.
Cool
Can someone please tell me the part numbers of the one on top under the thermostat housing and the one behind the passenger wheel?
www.rockauto.com
just add your vehicle and go to engine then look up timing chain tensioners.
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🙋♂️🙏👍
and 60ft pounds book says 32ft pounds
the mechanic definitely 32 foot lbs
Thank u