Thank You and PLATINUM PRODUCTIONS for making the MOST VALUABLE, INFORMATIVE videos on the FORD EXPLORER 4.0 Liter SOHC Motor. YOU BOTH ARE MY HEROS!!! There are 4-Timing Chains on this motor. I bought my 2009 Ford Explorer at 145K miles. I put 15K miles on this vehicle in 5-years. I performed religious oil changes. My guide BROKE LOOSE, through the Driver's side valve cover, with the engine still running!!! The FEMA; Failure Effects and Mode Analysis determined that with all the timing chain components, on this so called; "INTERFERENCE MOTOR", is without a doubt, the POOREST ENGINE DESIGN ever built. Supposedly, you could get 400,000 miles on these TIMING PARTS. The OEM; "REPLACEMENT PARTS", are also EXPECTED to last approximately 400,000 miles. I am a 68-year old U.S. Air Force Vietnam Veteran and literally have to REBUILD this motor and RISK, just; {"ONE"}, of these components FAILING, just to REPEAT the same NIGHTMARE. A Ford Dealership and local auto repair shop would NOT even touch this motor issue. EVERYONE CAN see that this man, took out this motor; "TWICE", ONLY to have a GUIDE "FAIL" @ 3,000 miles. I am on a Fixed Social Security budget and have NO CHOICE, except, to tear down this motor and repair it and CROSS my fingers and PRAY it does NOT happen again. GOD Thank You for this incredibly, informative video. Thanks, Mark D. Shore. I am a RETIRED Purchasing Manager and Systems Quality Analyst for the Pharmaceutical and AUTOMOTIVE INDUSTRIES. This should have been a RECALL ISSUE. I wrote a 74-PAGE ISSUE on GM- General Motors Recall # 14299, submitted it to CONGRESS, on a SINGLE PART that CAUSED a 31-million car RECALL. Shame on the AUTO INDUSTRY.
Hallelujah dude! I just had this problem this morning. The last oil change I put in full synthetic and that's when it started well about 2 weeks later. About 4 years ago I had all guides changed now this problem. So I'm thinking I have the same problem you just talked about. God bless you for helping many of us.
Synthetic oil fkn blows. It's quite simple k so here we go.....conventional oil contains a small amount of minerals. The mineral partials are larger than individual oil particles yet barely visa le with a microscope. These minerals consist of calcium zinc iron oxide potassium metal and many more. The mineral size adds a cushion or a film thickness not a fluid viscosity but a path you could say to continually provide open pathways between bearing surfaces to allow more oil particles to freely flow and not squeeze out.....I know it's a very shitty description but hopefully ya get it. Now synthetic is nothing more than recycled oil. Not to mention it's any any every form of oil from restaurant fryers to grease trap sludge all re-distilled. The fractional distillation seperate viscosities and solvents. Problem here is most mineral contents in used engine oil has been filtered out crushed beyond holding surface tension or simply stuck in sludge in the crank case some stuck in converter if engine burns oil bla bla bla! Any who that's way less mineral cushion n gap provider already n that's again before mixed with vegetable oils any and all grease heck probably Vaseline and baby oil too. Point blank is the lead chemist at lubrizol is a great customer and has over past 15 years became a good friend. I finally worked up the balls to ask him if my theory is correct and very non suggestively the man said....your too smart to be a wrench turner my friend! Take that as solid yup your right but I guarantee he has a non disclosure non compete clause with lubrizol so in 2 more years after he's retired hopefully he will let me make a video n pick his brain. Moral here is each n every way shape or form any product is changed like synthetic costing more and stated is better haha thank the govt for showing us just how dumb we truly are....use conventional oil period don't be the scammed and help your pals understand this simple but of fkn facts!!!!?
I just started hearing the same noise on the driver's side and was really bummed I was gonna have to pull the motor , but this looks just like the problem you had. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Me too. I had done all the chains 2 yr ago went to start it today and the loudest KLAK from that motor ! I'm familiar with the rattle when the chains are gone. Also ordered the primary tensioner from Napa for $50. The other was like $12. Won't go cheap again.
Thanks man!!! I know where to start now. I have the same noise coming from my sport track. I pinpointed it to the front driver's side of the engine. I thought I might have chipped a tooth, but I think you are right on with what I needed to know! Thanks again!
this may be my problem as well, I just replaced all new parts, and suddenly this noise started happening. UPDATE this was my problem as well, installed new timing components and didn't make 3 hrs. Faulty part. Ty for this video!
As far as I have researched, use Ford OEM chain and guides on this engine. All the aftermarket brands will just fail sooner or later. This seems to be a common issue with Cloyes and such.
added if the plastic pieces break off and float around. that's why the ford 3v v8 needs to get fixed as soon as noise happens since the parts on that engine drop into oil pan and often block the oil pickup destroying the engine .haven't heard if the 4l does the same the shop i talked to says engine pull 20 hr labor and the trucks condition don't warrant the investment my health precluded this work now but if truck was in better shape i install a factory rebuild i look into what was shown here as for parts i say buy that part directly from ford china counterfeit rotorcraft parts are common . i read aftermarket tensioners for the 3 valve v8 are terrible
Finally!, dude I've been trying to figure out what was this hideous noise and of course, i thought all the time it was a bad lifter :(. In my engine the noise comes and goes, like im driving and it starts to rattle i just turn of the engine and started right back up and it's gone.... until next time i use the truck. Thanks for this information bro, appreciate it 👍
Hola Jim, me paso exactamente lo mismo, vi tu video y me llamo la atención. Por que tenia un caso similar y gracias a tu video ya tenia idea de donde estaba el problema puse el traductor al español y entendí claramente ya que fuiste muy especifico en tus comentarios, Gracias por tomarte la molestia de compartir tu experiencia, para complementar les digo que vi dos patines estaban trabados como el tulló.
¡Hola Juan! Me alegro mucho que este video te haya sido de gran ayuda. Si hubiera visto un video como este cuando mi Explorer tuvo el problema, podría haber ahorrado mucho tiempo y dinero. Así que hice este video para ayudar a otros a evitar la frustración y la lucha que experimenté. (traducido a través del traductor de Google)
I have a 06 unit with 94K on the clock. What mileage did this happen to you fella ??? Thank you for your kind help Jimbo. This made a lot of sense. Look forward to more great videos fella. v
I don’t know, it really depends on the maintenance of the vehicle up to that point… But there have been some folks in the comments who have mentioned low mileage when they’ve had issues
@@jimbosdiyautorepair4825I DO just that JIM. What do you prefer, Motorcraft semi-synthetic or full synthetic Mobil 1, Castrol Edge, Royal purple ?? Thanks
Can you just replace the tensioner and guide without touching the chain and messing with the timing. Or does removing the tensioner screw up the timing?
Great question, I’m not 100% sure… I did all of it at the same time so I had to do the timing anyway. I would bet that removing the tensioner and guide could affect timing but may not if you’re super careful. But no matter what I would highly recommend double checking the timing. Otherwise you’re gonna do all the work and then grenade your engine for no reason.
Mine making this exact noise, to a T. I don’t really want to pull the engine. I was gonna sell the whole car for cheap. I believe the guides have prob been broke for a long time and I’ve just continued driving it until it started making this noise about a year ago. But is it worth trying this first?
Totally depends on your situation. If you time, tools and a good place to work it might be. Just depends on if you want to invest time and energy into it. If your timing chains are gone (which is likely) then pulling the engine and doing the whole project is the way to go. If you just do this then in my opinion your just slapping a band aid on it.
Great video man thanks! I have the same issue with my dads 2002 explorer 4.0 rattles at low idle infront of the engine. Could it be that tensioner your talking about? And do i need to pull the engine out for that? Thanks!
It could be the same thing, but if it’s only at low idle I’m not for certain. It also may be something else - there’s a number of plastic pieces at the front that can break causing different pets to rattle. So it could be any of those. You don’t need to pull the engine to access that stuff. You’ll need to pull the accessories off the front, then the front cover. You can leave the water pump attached to the front cover but doing so means you’ll probably dump coolant into the oil pan. It’ll keep your engine cleaner if you take off the water pump and suck as much coolant as possible out of the passageways and then remove the front cover (still have rags ready to catch spillage) If you get that stuff off and you don’t see anything busted, it may be the rear timing chain. Before taking off all the front cover stuff you might want to check under the valve covers and see if the timing chain cassettes are busted first. (Note: pass side cover won’t remove completely but you can check the cassette). If the rear is busted you’ll have to pull the engine. If the front is busted you’ll have to pull everything off the front anyway. Hope this helps!
So i just had a similar sound start when coming to a stop off the highway. Its constant and timed with the engine rpms, coming from the drivers side front of the engine, would it be worth redoing the front only or should i just pull the motor and be done with it. 2001 sport trac, 4.0 sohc, any insight would be greatly appreciated.
@sherryhowell8697 mine ended up being the tensioners. 2 of them broke and the chain was tapping. I believe there's 3 chains. Not positive on that. I do know that the 4x4s have an extra vs 2x4.
People. DON'T put those cheap ass ebay timing chains on these engines. Spend the money and go with a Cloye's and you won't have these issues!!! Do it and do it right and this little motor will run as good as new. People give this engines shit but when running right they are actually a good running little V-6!
ive done several of these over the years and i only use ford oem ones.they cost more but for the amount of work involved in doing it who wants to take chances.
@@No5elfCTRL Really only replying so people can refer to this as a resource, Explorerforum basically unanimously agrees to use only OEM Ford parts for this job if you wanna trust it.
Mine is sounding like that & not bad chain guides. Almost sounds like octane ping sorta. It sounds horrible when it starts & under load going down the road.
@@jimbosdiyautorepair4825 Did you ever figure your's out? Mine has sounded like this about 10 years & over 100k miles. Still going like it always has. 🤷 I'm gonna drive it until it can't anymore but it really hasn't done anything else but just that sound.
@@jimbosdiyautorepair4825 yeah if yours does it again just keep driving it & see if anything happens. Mine still has all of the power it never had to begin with. 🤣 It just has that rattle. My opinion has always been that I will just drive it till it drops. But it just hasn't never dropped. Rattle has not gotten worse or better. 🤷 I wonder if anyone has done what I did & just kept driving it too? I think mine is at like 235-240k miles. It's an 04' Limited. I've never had any transmission problems like a lot of others have. Another problem I had was the alternator wire plug, the pigtail wire came loose. It kept throwing the charging warning light & the beeping thing non-stop over & over again that drives you nuts. I finally fixed that junk. 🙄
That’s a great question … I think it totally depends on the quality of the part you get… the one I put in the first time (that I show broken in this vid.,) was a new part but had been sitting the back of a scrapped out explorer for who know how long. I shouldn’t have trusted it and I got bit. I know paying more for parts sucks, but I think with these timing components for this job you’re going to get what you pay for. From my experience its SUPER important to stay on top of oil changes too
Hey did you get a flashing check engine light with this problem? my explorer is making a similar noise, however I have a misfire on cylinders 1,2 and 3. But the car still runs and drives and can do 70 mph no problem. Do you think it’s too late and the valves are already bent?
Hmm I did not have the flashing check engine light… no idea if the valves are bent but if you decide to tear it apart you might as well replace them while your in there
Hey brother I have a Ford Ranger 2.3 and make a noise like bass speaker so only in the morning or the first Start time so what you think it is? Help me please
Nope… but it will still be a major pain. No way around it. Also, it you’re going to do the work you might consider pulling it anyways to do the rears at the same time. In my opinion if the fronts went, the rears are not far behind
This was exactly what just happened to our 2010 Ford Explorer. Replaced it but now the truck is flashing the check engine light and is idling low barely able to get over 2000 rpm. You think the timing needs to be reset?
It’s possible… I’d get the light checked and go from there. I don’t have experience on newer models than mine so I’m just not sure. If you didn’t replace the timing cassettes yet I would check that. On the older models you can pop the valve covers and check from there - but again I’m not sure what it will be like on a 2010
That mean you rotated the engine backwards while you was taking a harmonic balancer off and you bent the valve you was only supposed to turn the engine clockwise that's the only way to change stay fully intact before you actually get to it as it's rotating
No it’s in front. But you have to take off the front cover to see it. To takeoff the front cover you have to remove accessories off the front of the engine. The Water pump is attached to the front cover.
I need to change the timing chains and guides on my 06 explorer but I’m very intimidated by it all. I’m very mechanically inclined but it just seems like a lot of work. Uggh
Check out the other vids on this playlist… but essentially you have to pull the engine ro get to the timing chains. Two channels have detailed vids on the entire process. Check out Platinum Garage and FordTechMakeYouLoco
@@anthonyjacobs2904 unfortunately I don’t have a specific suggestion for you except to stay away from the cheap stuff. That’s what I used and bit me hard - had to redo it all after 3k mike’s. But the kit I used the second time only lasted about 8K miles. I went the cheap route both times. So if you’re going to do it, don’t go cheap on parts.
@@anthonyjacobs2904 I think $200ish, but that’s a very rough estimate. Basically avoid eBay altogether. Only use Amazon if the product is being sold by an actual parts company, not sold by Amazon or some shell company for cheap products. Also, I highly recommend contacting the seller to verify they are sending you a kit that matches your VIN. I didn’t do that and had to go buy a rear main seal separately b/c the one in the kit was incorrect.
Hey Che johnny! Great question - I actually don't know. I randomly found this one in the back of a junked out Explorer / abandoned rebuild project. Also, I ended up changing it out both times. Knowing I had installed a questionable part I decided to replace it again.
The good ones have metal plates on the underside of the black plastic. When you look at the one he pulled from this motor there wasn't any metal on the inner plastic tensioner.
OMG I'm so glad I found your video. Same exact noise! I couldn't believe what I was hearing. So everyone was telling me it's probably my timing chain. Me being a cardiac Scrub nurse I had to investigate myself before being fully convinced that it was my timing belt. Working on a human body is just like being a mechanic, correct? Being a scrub nurse I have to be very careful on making any mistakes versus being a mechanic, the car dies. It's not like a human life. But you can kill the car as well.. So tomorrow I will let you know the true diagnosis of what's going on.
@@jimbosdiyautorepair4825 yeah do you thinks worth fixing the timing chain or a new motor I had the transmission rebuilt ans then chain went ans since been driving like that for about a year
@@rudyramos4816 totally depends on how much time you have etc… to be honest, I had to do mine twice, then I sold it, and it blew up again for that person like 10k miles later. So if I was going to do it again I would either have someone rebuild it and provide a warranty, or put a new/rebuilt engine in with a warranty
I'm glad many of you are happy with this video. I bought a 1995. Wi5h the 4.0...there is No Way to do this. Tear it down your self.. Just like he says.. their are Many 4.0 you can't do this to.. all you see is the aluminum head.. Duh.. What joke.. Yes I'm ASE Certified.. SMH
@@joshsmith1355 i thought that was the problem at first too. Its a shit design. If its the front timing chain cassette it not to bad but if its the rear one you might as well get a new engine, cheaper in the long run. I took a gamble with the tensioners and it worked. Good luck and hope it works for you to.
Yeah mine also went for thousands of miles. I was shocked actually. But that was with timing chain rattle. The rattle in this video is way worse than that. If yours is still timing chain rattle - you could have 1 or 10k miles left lol!
I tell you what, that is a shit design and the fact Ford didn't have a recall for that. 4.0's are notorious for cassette failures. Best bet is if you have the knowhow and time,pull the engine and fix those cassettes before it gets to the point of jumping time and being an even more costly repair. My dad's started with the death rattle on startup and eventually quit, I got it back home and pulled the tensioners and the rear one threaded all the way in without resistance. That told me the cassette was either broke or the chain was broke. So pissed at Ford regarding this.
Bro, that is what happens when U buy cheap aftermarket parts. Lots of fake Chinese parts out there. I had issues with "brand name" control arms after 5000 miles, and discovered that Authentic FORD parts were the same price. If U R going through the trouble of pulling engine and replacing timing chains, for god's sake, get REAL Ford parts so U don't have 2 do it twice, and after only 3000 miles! -- Timing chain Rattle on cold startup only >> means replace the tensioners. Must be done every 70,000 miles -- Timing chain death rattle (high mileage engine) means change all three chains, guides and tensioners. -- Use authentic parts. see other videos for more detailed opinions
I just put in a reman engine on my 03 Sport Trac 4.0L. As an automotive technician, I can't stand these fucking engines, but I bought the Sport Trac for my son, and 6 months later, the timing chains in the back went bad. Silly me
@@jimbosdiyautorepair4825 idk bro to be honest it’s my first car and i’ve done plenty of stupid shit like put 2 quarts to much oil wich blew the valve gasket which i’m waiting to have the money to repair but it does make some crazy noises sometimes that worry me; i have my grandma and my great grandma who prays for me tho so i try not to stress to much how was your tuesday brother
@@kadebowman2608 ahhh gotcha… yeah the school of hard knocks - that’s how I learned most of what I know lol 😂 I’ll join your grandparents in praying for you for wisdom on what’s the best direction to fix your car (or if selling it would be better). Valve cover gaskets aren’t too tough or expensive, they just take some time. Be sure sure to clean the covers well before you put them back on. You can use brake clean, which is what worked well for me :)
Yea! That sound! Less loud, but definitely that sound! Shit....... What tools I gotta buy vs time... and the mechanic saying this or that and..... Just shit.....
Yup that's about right lol! A Mechanic will probably charge you $1500-$2500. You don't need specialty tools, but you do need the right tools... like an engine hoist and stand, and breaker bar, etc...
@@jimbosdiyautorepair4825 guess I can add another time over totaled when I got it lmao.. just basic maintenance alone so far I'm at once over. Trans fluid and filter, tyres, breaks, alignment, oil, steering fluid, cooling system fluid... and I saved some money on replacing some stuff myself, like the rad fan, some of the vacuum hoses, iacv, solar setup because it was cheaper than a new battery for now, Just those alone that I've done so far are sitting at 1x market value and I'm literally just started on fixing it... Next set is chasing down the p0171 and p0174 code so probably fuel pump, gaskets, and maf combo at this point... Idk, it's still 4 and 14 ltft so, it's somewhere... chain tensioner, engine mounts and whatever wobbled loose with the fan having been screwed so long, differential cleaning and lube, spark plugs, leaf springs bumpers, headlight housings for the front, dent removal, gas struts, replacement hatch, bodywork for dents, gouges and paint prep, paint.... That's probably a couple sets, but after that I should theoretically have an average market value vehicle lol.... What a gift from a dying old man though, I tell ya what... First him, now the car.... Bleh... On the plus, the f1 season is starting
@@keeganrasmussen977 yeah, that’s quite a project list! In my experience with explorers, they are money pits… I’ve moved away from them and onto other things lol. But it’s hard to beat free for the starting price!
@@jimbosdiyautorepair4825 I can't or I would have off the bat... I started off dumping whole paychecks at a time at it... Every paycheck... It's my house, my way to work, sentiment, and 3 years away from being considered a classic for the state I live in which gets hella discounts for like insurance and such... Like from 300 a month liability down to like 30$ just for having a "vintage vehicle plate"
@@keeganrasmussen977 gotcha, yeah, if it’s your house, then you don’t have a house payment otherwise, it’s a good idea to keep going on in it! you’re right!
Wow.. i have the same type of engine. 2004 4.0l.. i assumed it was the driver side tensioner but seen the slack in the passenger.. this motor is pathetic. Piss poor design tbh
Yeah it’s a frustrating situation… The key is to keep the oil changed very very regularly… But if you buy it used you have no idea what the person before you did with it. They may or may not have taken care of it…
@@jimbosdiyautorepair4825 i had it rebuilt by a local shop and it was one thing after another. Now it has to be pulled with less than 10k on it because of a tensioner. Just swapped a injector to keep it from vibrating to death at least. Good thing this is not the primary vehicle thats for sure
Thank You and PLATINUM PRODUCTIONS for making the MOST VALUABLE, INFORMATIVE videos on the FORD EXPLORER 4.0 Liter SOHC Motor. YOU BOTH ARE MY HEROS!!! There are 4-Timing Chains on this motor. I bought my 2009 Ford Explorer at 145K miles. I put 15K miles on this vehicle in 5-years. I performed religious oil changes. My guide BROKE LOOSE, through the Driver's side valve cover, with the engine still running!!! The FEMA; Failure Effects and Mode Analysis determined that with all the timing chain components, on this so called; "INTERFERENCE MOTOR", is without a doubt, the POOREST ENGINE DESIGN ever built. Supposedly, you could get 400,000 miles on these TIMING PARTS. The OEM; "REPLACEMENT PARTS", are also EXPECTED to last approximately 400,000 miles. I am a 68-year old U.S. Air Force Vietnam Veteran and literally have to REBUILD this motor and RISK, just; {"ONE"}, of these components FAILING, just to REPEAT the same NIGHTMARE. A Ford Dealership and local auto repair shop would NOT even touch this motor issue. EVERYONE CAN see that this man, took out this motor; "TWICE", ONLY to have a GUIDE "FAIL" @ 3,000 miles. I am on a Fixed Social Security budget and have NO CHOICE, except, to tear down this motor and repair it and CROSS my fingers and PRAY it does NOT happen again. GOD Thank You for this incredibly, informative video. Thanks, Mark D. Shore. I am a RETIRED Purchasing Manager and Systems Quality Analyst for the Pharmaceutical and AUTOMOTIVE INDUSTRIES. This should have been a RECALL ISSUE. I wrote a 74-PAGE ISSUE on GM- General Motors Recall # 14299, submitted it to CONGRESS, on a SINGLE PART that CAUSED a 31-million car RECALL. Shame on the AUTO INDUSTRY.
@@markshore5324 so glad this is helpful! I’ll be praying your job goes smoothly! #YouGotThis!
Hallelujah dude! I just had this problem this morning. The last oil change I put in full synthetic and that's when it started well about 2 weeks later. About 4 years ago I had all guides changed now this problem. So I'm thinking I have the same problem you just talked about. God bless you for helping many of us.
So glad This is helpful for you! Let me know how the project goes for you!
Synthetic oil fkn blows. It's quite simple k so here we go.....conventional oil contains a small amount of minerals. The mineral partials are larger than individual oil particles yet barely visa le with a microscope. These minerals consist of calcium zinc iron oxide potassium metal and many more. The mineral size adds a cushion or a film thickness not a fluid viscosity but a path you could say to continually provide open pathways between bearing surfaces to allow more oil particles to freely flow and not squeeze out.....I know it's a very shitty description but hopefully ya get it. Now synthetic is nothing more than recycled oil. Not to mention it's any any every form of oil from restaurant fryers to grease trap sludge all re-distilled. The fractional distillation seperate viscosities and solvents. Problem here is most mineral contents in used engine oil has been filtered out crushed beyond holding surface tension or simply stuck in sludge in the crank case some stuck in converter if engine burns oil bla bla bla! Any who that's way less mineral cushion n gap provider already n that's again before mixed with vegetable oils any and all grease heck probably Vaseline and baby oil too. Point blank is the lead chemist at lubrizol is a great customer and has over past 15 years became a good friend. I finally worked up the balls to ask him if my theory is correct and very non suggestively the man said....your too smart to be a wrench turner my friend! Take that as solid yup your right but I guarantee he has a non disclosure non compete clause with lubrizol so in 2 more years after he's retired hopefully he will let me make a video n pick his brain. Moral here is each n every way shape or form any product is changed like synthetic costing more and stated is better haha thank the govt for showing us just how dumb we truly are....use conventional oil period don't be the scammed and help your pals understand this simple but of fkn facts!!!!?
@@christopherparis6841 Very detailed description!
I just finished putting mines back together new heads and everything.
Got the same noise I am so confused.
@@robertsutton1964lol it won’t ever go away. The startup rattle either goes away for a little and comes back or never goes away. Just drive it.
I just started hearing the same noise on the driver's side and was really bummed I was gonna have to pull the motor , but this looks just like the problem you had. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Me too. I had done all the chains 2 yr ago went to start it today and the loudest KLAK from that motor ! I'm familiar with the rattle when the chains are gone. Also ordered the primary tensioner from Napa for $50. The other was like $12. Won't go cheap again.
Thanks man!!! I know where to start now. I have the same noise coming from my sport track. I pinpointed it to the front driver's side of the engine. I thought I might have chipped a tooth, but I think you are right on with what I needed to know! Thanks again!
So glad this is helpful!!!
Did you find out what it was my 04 sport Trac is making the same noise
this may be my problem as well, I just replaced all new parts, and suddenly this noise started happening. UPDATE this was my problem as well, installed new timing components and didn't make 3 hrs. Faulty part. Ty for this video!
As far as I have researched, use Ford OEM chain and guides on this engine. All the aftermarket brands will just fail sooner or later. This seems to be a common issue with Cloyes and such.
added if the plastic pieces break off and float around. that's why the ford 3v v8 needs to get fixed as soon as noise happens since the parts on that engine drop into oil pan and often block the oil pickup destroying the engine .haven't heard if the 4l does the same the shop i talked to says engine pull 20 hr labor and the trucks condition don't warrant the investment
my health precluded this work now but if truck was in better shape i install a factory rebuild i look into what was shown here
as for parts i say buy that part directly from ford china counterfeit rotorcraft parts are common . i read aftermarket tensioners for the 3 valve v8 are terrible
Finally!, dude I've been trying to figure out what was this hideous noise and of course, i thought all the time it was a bad lifter :(.
In my engine the noise comes and goes, like im driving and it starts to rattle i just turn of the engine and started right back up and it's gone.... until next time i use the truck. Thanks for this information bro, appreciate it 👍
Yeah you bet! So glad it’s helpful :) thanks for watching!
Hola Jim, me paso exactamente lo mismo, vi tu video y me llamo la atención. Por que tenia un caso similar y gracias a tu video ya tenia idea de donde estaba el problema puse el traductor al español y entendí claramente ya que fuiste muy especifico en tus comentarios, Gracias por tomarte la molestia de compartir tu experiencia, para complementar les digo que vi dos patines estaban trabados como el tulló.
¡Hola Juan! Me alegro mucho que este video te haya sido de gran ayuda. Si hubiera visto un video como este cuando mi Explorer tuvo el problema, podría haber ahorrado mucho tiempo y dinero. Así que hice este video para ayudar a otros a evitar la frustración y la lucha que experimenté.
(traducido a través del traductor de Google)
I have a 06 unit with 94K on the clock. What mileage did this happen to you fella ??? Thank you for your kind help Jimbo. This made a lot of sense. Look forward to more great videos fella. v
I was 200k plus… heard some folks have issues under 100k… all I can say is stay on top of oil changes!
@@jimbosdiyautorepair4825 Thanks for letting me know Jimbo. Look forward to see more videos. Peace vf
Forget to ask fella. Do you know how often chains have trouble at 94K miles ?? Thanks
I don’t know, it really depends on the maintenance of the vehicle up to that point… But there have been some folks in the comments who have mentioned low mileage when they’ve had issues
@@jimbosdiyautorepair4825I DO just that JIM. What do you prefer, Motorcraft semi-synthetic or full synthetic Mobil 1, Castrol Edge, Royal purple ?? Thanks
Can you just replace the tensioner and guide without touching the chain and messing with the timing. Or does removing the tensioner screw up the timing?
Great question, I’m not 100% sure… I did all of it at the same time so I had to do the timing anyway. I would bet that removing the tensioner and guide could affect timing but may not if you’re super careful. But no matter what I would highly recommend double checking the timing. Otherwise you’re gonna do all the work and then grenade your engine for no reason.
Mine making this exact noise, to a T. I don’t really want to pull the engine. I was gonna sell the whole car for cheap. I believe the guides have prob been broke for a long time and I’ve just continued driving it until it started making this noise about a year ago. But is it worth trying this first?
Totally depends on your situation. If you time, tools and a good place to work it might be. Just depends on if you want to invest time and energy into it. If your timing chains are gone (which is likely) then pulling the engine and doing the whole project is the way to go. If you just do this then in my opinion your just slapping a band aid on it.
Great video man thanks! I have the same issue with my dads 2002 explorer 4.0 rattles at low idle infront of the engine. Could it be that tensioner your talking about? And do i need to pull the engine out for that? Thanks!
It could be the same thing, but if it’s only at low idle I’m not for certain. It also may be something else - there’s a number of plastic pieces at the front that can break causing different pets to rattle. So it could be any of those. You don’t need to pull the engine to access that stuff. You’ll need to pull the accessories off the front, then the front cover. You can leave the water pump attached to the front cover but doing so means you’ll probably dump coolant into the oil pan. It’ll keep your engine cleaner if you take off the water pump and suck as much coolant as possible out of the passageways and then remove the front cover (still have rags ready to catch spillage)
If you get that stuff off and you don’t see anything busted, it may be the rear timing chain. Before taking off all the front cover stuff you might want to check under the valve covers and see if the timing chain cassettes are busted first. (Note: pass side cover won’t remove completely but you can check the cassette). If the rear is busted you’ll have to pull the engine. If the front is busted you’ll have to pull everything off the front anyway.
Hope this helps!
Holy hell dude did you watch the video at all jfc he answered you like 3 times
So i just had a similar sound start when coming to a stop off the highway. Its constant and timed with the engine rpms, coming from the drivers side front of the engine, would it be worth redoing the front only or should i just pull the motor and be done with it. 2001 sport trac, 4.0 sohc, any insight would be greatly appreciated.
mine 01 is doing the same what did you end up doing how many chains does ours have
@sherryhowell8697 mine ended up being the tensioners. 2 of them broke and the chain was tapping. I believe there's 3 chains. Not positive on that. I do know that the 4x4s have an extra vs 2x4.
People. DON'T put those cheap ass ebay timing chains on these engines. Spend the money and go with a Cloye's and you won't have these issues!!! Do it and do it right and this little motor will run as good as new. People give this engines shit but when running right they are actually a good running little V-6!
Great advice and insight!
I wish I wouldn’t have gone the cheap route 😞
ive done several of these over the years and i only use ford oem ones.they cost more but for the amount of work involved in doing it who wants to take chances.
I've heard if Cloye's going out at 30k miles or so. I would def only get Ford parts for this repair
@@No5elfCTRL Really only replying so people can refer to this as a resource, Explorerforum basically unanimously agrees to use only OEM Ford parts for this job if you wanna trust it.
Mine is sounding like that & not bad chain guides. Almost sounds like octane ping sorta. It sounds horrible when it starts & under load going down the road.
Yup that’s exactly what this sounded like
@@jimbosdiyautorepair4825 Did you ever figure your's out? Mine has sounded like this about 10 years & over 100k miles. Still going like it always has. 🤷 I'm gonna drive it until it can't anymore but it really hasn't done anything else but just that sound.
@@MercedesE63S-AMG yeah I rebuilt it with all new parts and the noise went away! I'm shocked that your's is still kicking!
@@jimbosdiyautorepair4825 yeah if yours does it again just keep driving it & see if anything happens. Mine still has all of the power it never had to begin with. 🤣 It just has that rattle. My opinion has always been that I will just drive it till it drops. But it just hasn't never dropped. Rattle has not gotten worse or better. 🤷 I wonder if anyone has done what I did & just kept driving it too? I think mine is at like 235-240k miles. It's an 04' Limited. I've never had any transmission problems like a lot of others have. Another problem I had was the alternator wire plug, the pigtail wire came loose. It kept throwing the charging warning light & the beeping thing non-stop over & over again that drives you nuts. I finally fixed that junk. 🙄
@@MercedesE63S-AMG Sheesh that's quite a journey!
I've heard that the new kits for the timing chains don't last more than 40k.....I'm trying to figure out how to swap to the old 4.0 ohv
That’s a great question … I think it totally depends on the quality of the part you get… the one I put in the first time (that I show broken in this vid.,) was a new part but had been sitting the back of a scrapped out explorer for who know how long. I shouldn’t have trusted it and I got bit. I know paying more for parts sucks, but I think with these timing components for this job you’re going to get what you pay for.
From my experience its SUPER important to stay on top of oil changes too
Always get Ford parts for timing chain fixes. Not worth it if the parts you get are not good replacements
Thanks that’s the noise I was looking for
You bet!
Thanks, this video is a blessing
Hey did you get a flashing check engine light with this problem? my explorer is making a similar noise, however I have a misfire on cylinders 1,2 and 3. But the car still runs and drives and can do 70 mph no problem.
Do you think it’s too late and the valves are already bent?
Hmm I did not have the flashing check engine light… no idea if the valves are bent but if you decide to tear it apart you might as well replace them while your in there
Let me ask you , do you have to pull the engine out to repair the timing guides?
For the rear guides, yes you have to pull the engine. The fronts can be done without pulling it.
@@jimbosdiyautorepair4825 Thanks!
Hey brother I have a Ford Ranger 2.3 and make a noise like bass speaker so only in the morning or the first Start time so what you think it is? Help me please
Not what that would be… maybe something in the exhaust system?
Sorry I can’t be more help than that!
Thank you broo probably right because my truck work fine nothing wrong is just that noise thanks you man
So i wont have to pull the engine if its just front timing chain?
Nope… but it will still be a major pain. No way around it.
Also, it you’re going to do the work you might consider pulling it anyways to do the rears at the same time. In my opinion if the fronts went, the rears are not far behind
Is that ford oem part?
The ones I put in were not, they were cheap knock offs… shoulda done Ford OEM lol
This was exactly what just happened to our 2010 Ford Explorer. Replaced it but now the truck is flashing the check engine light and is idling low barely able to get over 2000 rpm. You think the timing needs to be reset?
It’s possible… I’d get the light checked and go from there. I don’t have experience on newer models than mine so I’m just not sure. If you didn’t replace the timing cassettes yet I would check that. On the older models you can pop the valve covers and check from there - but again I’m not sure what it will be like on a 2010
That mean you rotated the engine backwards while you was taking a harmonic balancer off and you bent the valve you was only supposed to turn the engine clockwise that's the only way to change stay fully intact before you actually get to it as it's rotating
Thank you so much this helped
Is that on the top Front where the hydraulic tensioner is?
No it’s in front. But you have to take off the front cover to see it. To takeoff the front cover you have to remove accessories off the front of the engine.
The Water pump is attached to the front cover.
No, it's behind the front timing cover. You'll have to dig some parts to get to it but two bolts and it's off. Buy QUALITY.
I need to change the timing chains and guides on my 06 explorer but I’m very intimidated by it all. I’m very mechanically inclined but it just seems like a lot of work. Uggh
Don’t blame you one bit! It is indeed intimidating. However if I was able to do it, I’d bet you can too :)
My 2004 ford explorer 4.0 motor is knocking at 180,000 timing chain how do I fix
Check out the other vids on this playlist… but essentially you have to pull the engine ro get to the timing chains. Two channels have detailed vids on the entire process. Check out Platinum Garage and FordTechMakeYouLoco
What's the best kit and where to buy
@@anthonyjacobs2904 unfortunately I don’t have a specific suggestion for you except to stay away from the cheap stuff. That’s what I used and bit me hard - had to redo it all after 3k mike’s. But the kit I used the second time only lasted about 8K miles. I went the cheap route both times. So if you’re going to do it, don’t go cheap on parts.
@@jimbosdiyautorepair4825 what price did you pay
@@anthonyjacobs2904 I think $200ish, but that’s a very rough estimate. Basically avoid eBay altogether. Only use Amazon if the product is being sold by an actual parts company, not sold by Amazon or some shell company for cheap products. Also, I highly recommend contacting the seller to verify they are sending you a kit that matches your VIN. I didn’t do that and had to go buy a rear main seal separately b/c the one in the kit was incorrect.
what brand is that part? and did you change it out the 1st time or on the 2nd? Thanks. I've got the same noise
Hey Che johnny! Great question - I actually don't know. I randomly found this one in the back of a junked out Explorer / abandoned rebuild project. Also, I ended up changing it out both times. Knowing I had installed a questionable part I decided to replace it again.
The good ones have metal plates on the underside of the black plastic. When you look at the one he pulled from this motor there wasn't any metal on the inner plastic tensioner.
OMG I'm so glad I found your video. Same exact noise! I couldn't believe what I was hearing.
So everyone was telling me it's probably my timing chain. Me being a cardiac Scrub nurse I had to investigate myself before being fully convinced that it was my timing belt. Working on a human body is just like being a mechanic, correct? Being a scrub nurse I have to be very careful on making any mistakes versus being a mechanic, the car dies. It's not like a human life. But you can kill the car as well..
So tomorrow I will let you know the true diagnosis of what's going on.
Thanks for all you do in your field! Hoping you can figure it out quick!
What happened?
I have the same problem, but something, for some reason broke the head cover on driver side
Can some find a video on this exact part replacement
Maybe they can, I’m not sure
Thank you, l have the same noise on my 2006 mountaineer, now l know where to go.
Glad this is helpful! Just fyi if your mountaineer has the V8 it’ll be a similar concept but slightly different setup.
When i drive and its shifting it start rattlkng then it kinds gets quiter if i let gl then gas it
Yup sounds to be me like that’s either your timing chain cassettes gone bad and/or tensioners on the front (like in this video)
@@jimbosdiyautorepair4825 yeah do you thinks worth fixing the timing chain or a new motor I had the transmission rebuilt ans then chain went ans since been driving like that for about a year
@@rudyramos4816 totally depends on how much time you have etc… to be honest, I had to do mine twice, then I sold it, and it blew up again for that person like 10k miles later. So if I was going to do it again I would either have someone rebuild it and provide a warranty, or put a new/rebuilt engine in with a warranty
@@jimbosdiyautorepair4825 if I go for fixing the timing chain what's the best one that'll last a while
Bro, that’s the same noise that coming out of my truck. I will not work on it but I’ll send it to my mechanic to give me a full diagnostic.
Will be interesting to see if your mechanic concurs with my conclusion in this vid… would love to hear what your mech says!
It happened to me a different way tensioner was stuck end the timeming chain jump Bent valve
Yeah that can happen! What’s your plan with it?
Do you live in Ohio north east actually?
Nope - only driven through Ohio one time in my life. I live in central Kansas
I'm glad many of you are happy with this video. I bought a 1995. Wi5h the 4.0...there is No Way to do this. Tear it down your self.. Just like he says.. their are Many 4.0 you can't do this to.. all you see is the aluminum head.. Duh.. What joke.. Yes I'm ASE Certified.. SMH
My wifes truck was doing the same thjng. Luckily it was just the two tensioner
How costly was it to fix?
@@joshsmith1355 About 60 bucks. Did the work myself. One is easy to get to the other nof so much. Took about 2 hours.
I think I'm goin to give it a try and hope that's the problem I was quoted $3500 to put in new timing chains
@@joshsmith1355 i thought that was the problem at first too. Its a shit design. If its the front timing chain cassette it not to bad but if its the rear one you might as well get a new engine, cheaper in the long run. I took a gamble with the tensioners and it worked. Good luck and hope it works for you to.
That's what I am having trouble with and mine is making the same noise
Hey bro did it give you a misfire?
Or anyone on here have misfire with the rattle
I did not get a misfire with the rattle … maybe others did? … good question!
@Andy Taylor Yea my 4.0 just started to get the rattle like a week ago… and it has a misfire too
Mine has been rattling for thousands of miles i keep the rpms 3000 and lower always gonna drive it till boom & junk it
Yeah mine also went for thousands of miles. I was shocked actually. But that was with timing chain rattle. The rattle in this video is way worse than that. If yours is still timing chain rattle - you could have 1 or 10k miles left lol!
Perfect cuz that's exactly what mine's doing
Such a bummer! Think you’ll try to fix it yourself?
Wow. That my same noice and two shops recommended new engine and both quoted 8k. Lol.
Yeah that’s crazy! But with inflation…
C4 cures that! Coyote swap coming soon
Lol - yeah C 4 would make a great show for sure!
By Ford parts not aftermarket, Price wise its actually cheaper and Ford updated parts hold up 3 times better
I tell you what, that is a shit design and the fact Ford didn't have a recall for that. 4.0's are notorious for cassette failures. Best bet is if you have the knowhow and time,pull the engine and fix those cassettes before it gets to the point of jumping time and being an even more costly repair. My dad's started with the death rattle on startup and eventually quit, I got it back home and pulled the tensioners and the rear one threaded all the way in without resistance. That told me the cassette was either broke or the chain was broke. So pissed at Ford regarding this.
Yup for sure, totally ridiculous, I agree!
Bro, that is what happens when U buy cheap aftermarket parts. Lots of fake Chinese parts out there. I had issues with "brand name" control arms after 5000 miles, and discovered that Authentic FORD parts were the same price. If U R going through the trouble of pulling engine and replacing timing chains, for god's sake, get REAL Ford parts so U don't have 2 do it twice, and after only 3000 miles!
-- Timing chain Rattle on cold startup only >> means replace the tensioners. Must be done every 70,000 miles
-- Timing chain death rattle (high mileage engine) means change all three chains, guides and tensioners.
-- Use authentic parts. see other videos for more detailed opinions
I just put in a reman engine on my 03 Sport Trac 4.0L. As an automotive technician, I can't stand these fucking engines, but I bought the Sport Trac for my son, and 6 months later, the timing chains in the back went bad. Silly me
Yeah that totally sucks!!! Especially with a re-man’d motor you’d think it would longer than that!!!
aye bro u should look at mine sounds like u know your way around it
I definitely waded through the waters lol… yours sounding the same as mine was?
@@jimbosdiyautorepair4825 idk bro to be honest it’s my first car and i’ve done plenty of stupid shit like put 2 quarts to much oil wich blew the valve gasket which i’m waiting to have the money to repair but it does make some crazy noises sometimes that worry me; i have my grandma and my great grandma who prays for me tho so i try not to stress to much how was your tuesday brother
@@kadebowman2608 ahhh gotcha… yeah the school of hard knocks - that’s how I learned most of what I know lol 😂
I’ll join your grandparents in praying for you for wisdom on what’s the best direction to fix your car (or if selling it would be better). Valve cover gaskets aren’t too tough or expensive, they just take some time. Be sure sure to clean the covers well before you put them back on. You can use brake clean, which is what worked well for me :)
@@jimbosdiyautorepair4825 thanks for letting me know i definitely have some curves to learn but i’ll get there
@@jimbosdiyautorepair4825 but how dangerous is it for me to drive on the bad valve gasket i’m broke rn i still need to get places tho
Having the same problem with my ford 🙄
Sorry bro! Such and bummer this happens on ‘em. Praying for you to have wisdom on your next steps!
Mine runs like shit probably from the bad chain tensioner
Mines making that same noise
Bummer eh?
Just pull the sprocket and chain off of the balancer. Problem solved.
Yea! That sound! Less loud, but definitely that sound!
Shit....... What tools I gotta buy vs time... and the mechanic saying this or that and..... Just shit.....
Yup that's about right lol! A Mechanic will probably charge you $1500-$2500. You don't need specialty tools, but you do need the right tools... like an engine hoist and stand, and breaker bar, etc...
@@jimbosdiyautorepair4825 guess I can add another time over totaled when I got it lmao.. just basic maintenance alone so far I'm at once over. Trans fluid and filter, tyres, breaks, alignment, oil, steering fluid, cooling system fluid... and I saved some money on replacing some stuff myself, like the rad fan, some of the vacuum hoses, iacv, solar setup because it was cheaper than a new battery for now, Just those alone that I've done so far are sitting at 1x market value and I'm literally just started on fixing it... Next set is chasing down the p0171 and p0174 code so probably fuel pump, gaskets, and maf combo at this point... Idk, it's still 4 and 14 ltft so, it's somewhere... chain tensioner, engine mounts and whatever wobbled loose with the fan having been screwed so long, differential cleaning and lube, spark plugs, leaf springs bumpers, headlight housings for the front, dent removal, gas struts, replacement hatch, bodywork for dents, gouges and paint prep, paint.... That's probably a couple sets, but after that I should theoretically have an average market value vehicle lol....
What a gift from a dying old man though, I tell ya what... First him, now the car.... Bleh...
On the plus, the f1 season is starting
@@keeganrasmussen977 yeah, that’s quite a project list! In my experience with explorers, they are money pits… I’ve moved away from them and onto other things lol. But it’s hard to beat free for the starting price!
@@jimbosdiyautorepair4825 I can't or I would have off the bat... I started off dumping whole paychecks at a time at it... Every paycheck... It's my house, my way to work, sentiment, and 3 years away from being considered a classic for the state I live in which gets hella discounts for like insurance and such... Like from 300 a month liability down to like 30$ just for having a "vintage vehicle plate"
@@keeganrasmussen977 gotcha, yeah, if it’s your house, then you don’t have a house payment otherwise, it’s a good idea to keep going on in it! you’re right!
These days I use ford motor raft only in my Ford vehicles
Wow.. i have the same type of engine. 2004 4.0l.. i assumed it was the driver side tensioner but seen the slack in the passenger.. this motor is pathetic. Piss poor design tbh
Yeah it’s a frustrating situation… The key is to keep the oil changed very very regularly… But if you buy it used you have no idea what the person before you did with it. They may or may not have taken care of it…
@@jimbosdiyautorepair4825 i had it rebuilt by a local shop and it was one thing after another. Now it has to be pulled with less than 10k on it because of a tensioner. Just swapped a injector to keep it from vibrating to death at least. Good thing this is not the primary vehicle thats for sure
@@arcinom3597 Yes indeed. Yeah I did mine and then had issues under 10k miles too. SO dumb.
Installed it wrong there's no rear timing chain...lmfao
Yeah there is. The 4.0 has a front and rear timing chain.
Is he working on a car wearing a smart watch? Really!
Yeah I learned the hard way! Ha!
Wow. That my same noice and two shops recommended new engine and both quoted 8k. Lol.
Crazy right!?