I don't think people NEED to clean grinders. Definitely not that often, and especially on these Timemore ones, there's too much to go wrong for no real reason. I only open my grinders to change burrs or if something is wrong.
I just got my Timore Sculptor 078, and there is a warning before the instructions for maintenance involving accessing and cleaning the burrs that it should only be done by a professional. Maybe that's just their way of disclaiming liability.
@@one23johnson I did open mine because the grind kept changing, When I first got the machine I randomly set it to 12 on the dial and the first five brews were were great--fresh, bright and and full without any bitterness. Then I couldn't reproduce that with the same beans. I experimented with different speeds and finally got something was pretty good at 10 on the grind dial and 1400 RPM, the fastest speed. Then I remembered the advice to season the burrs, with about 5 pounds of 7 pounds of older coffee I had been saving for that purpose, on the course setting. After that I couldn't get anything to come out good, that's when I took it apart to see if it needed cleaning. Not that hard I didn't take out the rotating in burr. But there wasn't much retained inside, but I did brush it and blow it out. I kept experimenting and trying different speeds and grinds and finally settle on I think 9 on the dial and the slowest speed at 400 RPM. It would be good for one batch, then it would not be so good, I would reduce the grind finest by a half an increment, 8.5. It would be good for the first brew and then not so good and I'd have to reduce it to eight, 7.5, then 7. I was worried I would run out of the finer settings if that kept up. It seems to have stabilized between 6.5 and 6, depending on the coffee. Perhaps that's the so-called seasoning process at work. But how much is it taking off those burrs to do that? If the very best coffee was at a courser grind of 12 when it was new, perhaps they should figure out a way to harden the burrs and keep them sharp like they are originally.
@@fredbloggs6080 I don’t follow it’s good now at 6-6.5 like it was before at 12? Or it never got back to that? If now then I think lesson is seasoning. Has nothing to do with cleaning unless there were a lot of grounds in the grinder. I think this grinder and the knocker chute keep retention at bay so I don’t see value in opening potentially disturbing the alignment to clean .1- .2g of retention
@@one23johnson I didn't say it was a problem with the retention, I just opened it to see if it was some sort of issue in there but there wasn't enough to make a difference. no I initially did it at 12 because I thought that was equivalent to the 2/3 from coarsest to finest I had my previous grinder set at, but I got it backwards so it was 2/3 from the finest to the coarsest. However… Setting it produced excellent coffee for about five brews, and no it never got back to that at that setting. Supposedly seasoning produces larger grind size. The theory about seasoning is that the burrs will continue to give variable grinds, and supposedly seasoning just speeds up the process of doubling the burrs, so it stabilizes after 5 or 7 pounds or or however much beans you put through it--I think I was using the fastest speed for that. Because even after I put about 5 pounds of beans through it into a bowl, on the coarsest or next to coarsest setting, running it each time 30 seconds until it stopped, it continued to keep changing--that it must have been creating larger particle sizes necessitating turning the dial to finer--up till about 6.5 on the dial. I also use the lowest speed now.
I struggled with the same problem, you have to align the 2 ping of the auger piece with the one that have the 6 screws. I made the mistake of testing the grinder when on that situation, and damaged the burrs a bit
Thank you very much for the tip about pushing in to remove the outer burr! I spent a long time trying to get that out, and bloodied several knuckles, trying to follow the instructions in the manual which doesn't mention pushing in. Do you have any recommendations for putting it back in? There doesn't seem to be any one place where it's obviously in the right place. In other words, it appears the burr can be locked in the sense that it won't come out, but can still be rotated. I tried to find somewhere where the two pins on the carrier would line up with the slots on the facing part but wasn't too sure about it. Are there any other considerations to that?
Never mind, I see that there is in fact a position in which the burr carrier does lock into place. I can't say I'm totally happy with this grinder, especially the difficulty in dealing with burr disassembly/assembly, but I'm a bit happier now that I understand how to do it.
My burr is scratchkng against each other and I can't press in at for taking it out at all.. I'm totally frustrated about this.. am still trying to get it out...
@purpleswirl9732 are you able to hold to the grinder with one hand and with another hand push the carrier in, and twist so you could turn it till it's in a certain position to take it out?
I can see the groove for alignment.. I have finally been able to pull it out with so much force.. I figured mine got stuck so much that it doesn't have room for pressing in further.. Now I have clean the grinder and I noticed uneven grind marks on the blade.. When putting the blade back in, does the blade sort of hold into place by the inner groove? And I can't really turn it if I do that will rub against the inner groove..
I disassembled my 078 to clean it, and now after reassembling it, the grinder turns on with a beep but doesn't start. Do you know what the problem might be? 😥
Are you a professional? The instructions warn against doing that unless you are a professional. I thought it was just out of an abundance of caution, but maybe it's to avoid your problem.
@@hisbrewcoffee got my 078 about 2 months ago, just pulled out my kruve 1000/600um on setting 18 I got 23 grams on top, 3 grams middle and 1.8 grams bottom so think it might be the fines slowing my pulsar brews. 🤷🏽♂️
how about the opposite? // I’ve shifted the pin counterclockwise 1 notch, to make the original zero as one (so I can go finer) .. but a problem I’m facing is if I go below 0.8 it makes a very concerning sound.. should that happen?
If you don't screw it all the way in, you mentioned it makes a really really bad sound when you turn it on. What is that sound that it makes, and what is the cause of that?
Is the motor running when you turn on the grinder? The way to identify it is too pull out the outer burr carrier and with the inner burr in place, when you turn on the grinder the center shaft should spin. If it doesn't then it's the motor faulty.
The plate where you set zero (has the “pin” where you half unscrew to takeoff/put on). That plate does not go as far in as it was before I took it out - I’ve screwed as far as it will let me and def not all the way in
When you tighten the 6 screws again it’s best to tighten them in a star patten so that the plate is level and even.
Yup that's right thanks for the comment. Totally missed it as was focus on the video instead
This is very helpful, thank you!
Great video. Your commentary makes it really helpful. Thank you for putting this together!
You are most welcome. I hope it helps a little
thank you josh, great tutorial, very helpful!
Thank you very much!
Thanks 🙏 that’s very helpful
were the burrs aligned out of the box? thanks.
I don't think people NEED to clean grinders. Definitely not that often, and especially on these Timemore ones, there's too much to go wrong for no real reason.
I only open my grinders to change burrs or if something is wrong.
I just got my Timore Sculptor 078, and there is a warning before the instructions for maintenance involving accessing and cleaning the burrs that it should only be done by a professional. Maybe that's just their way of disclaiming liability.
I don’t think it’s necessary. You’re having so little retention. I don’t think it matters. I will never plan to open mine
@@one23johnson I did open mine because the grind kept changing, When I first got the machine I randomly set it to 12 on the dial and the first five brews were were great--fresh, bright and and full without any bitterness. Then I couldn't reproduce that with the same beans. I experimented with different speeds and finally got something was pretty good at 10 on the grind dial and 1400 RPM, the fastest speed. Then I remembered the advice to season the burrs, with about 5 pounds of 7 pounds of older coffee I had been saving for that purpose, on the course setting. After that I couldn't get anything to come out good, that's when I took it apart to see if it needed cleaning. Not that hard I didn't take out the rotating in burr. But there wasn't much retained inside, but I did brush it and blow it out. I kept experimenting and trying different speeds and grinds and finally settle on I think 9 on the dial and the slowest speed at 400 RPM. It would be good for one batch, then it would not be so good, I would reduce the grind finest by a half an increment, 8.5. It would be good for the first brew and then not so good and I'd have to reduce it to eight, 7.5, then 7. I was worried I would run out of the finer settings if that kept up. It seems to have stabilized between 6.5 and 6, depending on the coffee. Perhaps that's the so-called seasoning process at work. But how much is it taking off those burrs to do that? If the very best coffee was at a courser grind of 12 when it was new, perhaps they should figure out a way to harden the burrs and keep them sharp like they are originally.
@@fredbloggs6080 I don’t follow it’s good now at 6-6.5 like it was before at 12? Or it never got back to that? If now then I think lesson is seasoning. Has nothing to do with cleaning unless there were a lot of grounds in the grinder. I think this grinder and the knocker chute keep retention at bay so I don’t see value in opening potentially disturbing the alignment to clean .1- .2g of retention
@@one23johnson I didn't say it was a problem with the retention, I just opened it to see if it was some sort of issue in there but there wasn't enough to make a difference. no I initially did it at 12 because I thought that was equivalent to the 2/3 from coarsest to finest I had my previous grinder set at, but I got it backwards so it was 2/3 from the finest to the coarsest. However… Setting it produced excellent coffee for about five brews, and no it never got back to that at that setting. Supposedly seasoning produces larger grind size. The theory about seasoning is that the burrs will continue to give variable grinds, and supposedly seasoning just speeds up the process of doubling the burrs, so it stabilizes after 5 or 7 pounds or or however much beans you put through it--I think I was using the fastest speed for that. Because even after I put about 5 pounds of beans through it into a bowl, on the coarsest or next to coarsest setting, running it each time 30 seconds until it stopped, it continued to keep changing--that it must have been creating larger particle sizes necessitating turning the dial to finer--up till about 6.5 on the dial. I also use the lowest speed now.
Have you ever come across the plate with the pin not going all the way back in? I cannot get it flush any more
I struggled with the same problem, you have to align the 2 ping of the auger piece with the one that have the 6 screws. I made the mistake of testing the grinder when on that situation, and damaged the burrs a bit
How often should you be cleaning the grinder assuming once per day usage?
There is also a factor of how dark of a roast your beans are. But generally once a month or once every 2 months should be okay
Timemore has released a video showing how to open / replace the burrs now. Although they recommend you do not do that!
Yes they have even before we released the video.
Thank you very much for the tip about pushing in to remove the outer burr! I spent a long time trying to get that out, and bloodied several knuckles, trying to follow the instructions in the manual which doesn't mention pushing in. Do you have any recommendations for putting it back in? There doesn't seem to be any one place where it's obviously in the right place. In other words, it appears the burr can be locked in the sense that it won't come out, but can still be rotated. I tried to find somewhere where the two pins on the carrier would line up with the slots on the facing part but wasn't too sure about it. Are there any other considerations to that?
Never mind, I see that there is in fact a position in which the burr carrier does lock into place. I can't say I'm totally happy with this grinder, especially the difficulty in dealing with burr disassembly/assembly, but I'm a bit happier now that I understand how to do it.
I can't get the burr out also, tried for an hour and couldn't get how to press in for getting the Burt out...
My burr is scratchkng against each other and I can't press in at for taking it out at all.. I'm totally frustrated about this.. am still trying to get it out...
@purpleswirl9732 are you able to hold to the grinder with one hand and with another hand push the carrier in, and twist so you could turn it till it's in a certain position to take it out?
I can see the groove for alignment.. I have finally been able to pull it out with so much force.. I figured mine got stuck so much that it doesn't have room for pressing in further..
Now I have clean the grinder and I noticed uneven grind marks on the blade..
When putting the blade back in, does the blade sort of hold into place by the inner groove? And I can't really turn it if I do that will rub against the inner groove..
I disassembled my 078 to clean it, and now after reassembling it, the grinder turns on with a beep but doesn't start. Do you know what the problem might be? 😥
Are you a professional? The instructions warn against doing that unless you are a professional. I thought it was just out of an abundance of caution, but maybe it's to avoid your problem.
By the way it’s 3mm not 2.5 mm Allen key 👍
Haha, a 2.5mm work for us. But yea lh thanks
Can you adjust to courser grind by putting the pin in a different hole?
Yes you can. But wondering why would you want to do that? As the max setting out of the box is coarse enough for a French press
@@hisbrewcoffee got my 078 about 2 months ago, just pulled out my kruve 1000/600um on setting 18 I got 23 grams on top, 3 grams middle and 1.8 grams bottom so think it might be the fines slowing my pulsar brews. 🤷🏽♂️
how about the opposite? // I’ve shifted the pin counterclockwise 1 notch, to make the original zero as one (so I can go finer) .. but a problem I’m facing is if I go below 0.8 it makes a very concerning sound.. should that happen?
If you don't screw it all the way in, you mentioned it makes a really really bad sound when you turn it on. What is that sound that it makes, and what is the cause of that?
I think it's a slip in the bearings and burrs.
@hisbrewcoffee Holy cow, would that damage the motor?
@samuelpearson yes definitely. It will damage the burrs first and then I think motor. Because there slippage. Yeah it's a horrible sound
Goodness me, sound horrifying. I just got my 078S the other day, you would think they would put a really BOLD disclaimer on the manual.
Any tips if the outer burr carrier won’t turn? I think the burrs might be jammed on my unit.
Is the motor running when you turn on the grinder? The way to identify it is too pull out the outer burr carrier and with the inner burr in place, when you turn on the grinder the center shaft should spin. If it doesn't then it's the motor faulty.
@@hisbrewcoffee I must have a bad motor bc mine won't even turn on.
Hex and allen both mean the same screw head. You were doing fine.
Haha thanks will keep that in mind
right😃
Have you ever come across the plate with the pin not going all the way back in? I cannot get it flush any more
Which pin are you referring to?
The plate where you set zero (has the “pin” where you half unscrew to takeoff/put on).
That plate does not go as far in as it was before I took it out - I’ve screwed as far as it will let me and def not all the way in