Umm, there is a valid reason the stranded wire is used in automotive (mobile) applications; copper is notorious for work hardening, fatiguing, and breaking, especially at connection points. I hope you don’t run into wiring failures in the future.
I really like the whole van series - I'm learning a lot. A suggestion for the fire proofing part of the electrical system: use 1/4" cement board as a facing for the plywood. It is available in 4 x 4 sheets and not very heavy. It's fairly cheap and easy to work with. To cut just score one side like drywall and snap over a straight edge. Use carbide tip drill bits to make your holes. I used tee nuts on the plywood.
Deeply appreciative of the time you took to explain this, I have the same inverter & while I only plan to use the main AC output, this is the first time I've come across an easy-to understand explanation of how the second one might be helpful. I also have the Simarine monitoring system, so I am looking forward to learning more. Cheers!
Ahhh thanks… hand altered, quilted western stars in brown at a thrift store?!? YES F’ing PLEASE for me!! (The back is the best… giant star). The starwars stuff is fun, but enjoy it while it lasts… it’s not gonna be a new standard! Lol
Just a heads up, NOALOX is an abbreviation of exactly what it is for NO ALuminum OXide. NOALOX will prevent more oxidation from happening, but it will not undo any oxidation that has already happened. While the NEC does not require it, NOALOX is probably worth the peace of mind if you're going into a salty or corrosive environment.
Yep… or if you don’t know where you are going but know there will be the occasional beach and your system is open to the air when you get beers from your cooler 😜
Umm, there is a valid reason the stranded wire is used in automotive (mobile) applications; copper is notorious for work hardening, fatiguing, and breaking, especially at connection points. I hope you don’t run into wiring failures in the future.
I really like the whole van series - I'm learning a lot. A suggestion for the fire proofing part of the electrical system: use 1/4" cement board as a facing for the plywood. It is available in 4 x 4 sheets and not very heavy. It's fairly cheap and easy to work with. To cut just score one side like drywall and snap over a straight edge. Use carbide tip drill bits to make your holes. I used tee nuts on the plywood.
Deeply appreciative of the time you took to explain this, I have the same inverter & while I only plan to use the main AC output, this is the first time I've come across an easy-to understand explanation of how the second one might be helpful. I also have the Simarine monitoring system, so I am looking forward to learning more. Cheers!
Rad… I love when videos find the peeps who need them the most… it’s like the algorithm knows things!! 🤔 🧐
Also…I love your shirt…and the Star Wars AC/DC!❤
Ahhh thanks… hand altered, quilted western stars in brown at a thrift store?!? YES F’ing PLEASE for me!! (The back is the best… giant star). The starwars stuff is fun, but enjoy it while it lasts… it’s not gonna be a new standard! Lol
thanks for the electrical details and diagrams!
👍🏽
Loving all Star Wars outtakes lolol😅
Glad to hear it… sometimes I have to do something to entertain myself! Editing is torture sometimes!
Just a heads up, NOALOX is an abbreviation of exactly what it is for NO ALuminum OXide. NOALOX will prevent more oxidation from happening, but it will not undo any oxidation that has already happened. While the NEC does not require it, NOALOX is probably worth the peace of mind if you're going into a salty or corrosive environment.
Yep… or if you don’t know where you are going but know there will be the occasional beach and your system is open to the air when you get beers from your cooler 😜
Thanks for sharing another informative video!
Yup