Amazing difference, is t it? I almost sold my bike due to the rubbish starting etc. truly. Removing the Evap system cured it all and I still have the bike of course
I would like to say a MASSIVE THANK YOU to You JAMES👌👌👌 I would never have attempted this had it not been for You and Your guidance!! Thanks for Your endeavour to share Your knowledge!! Thanks also Your support during my efforts 👍 I managed to complete this procedure and my Interceptor is running sweeter than before 😁
You’re welcome, Dean, and I’m very pleased indeed that you have succeeded! Your next mod is the RR extension cables, right? You have my phone number and, if you need any help, feel free to ring me!
Hi James thankyou for posting this video and others you do its great people like you take the time and effirt to share these things. I am still awaiting my euro 5 kit to be delivered but i have removed the evap trash unit ready.I have checked out the 2 x rubber pipes going to the petrol tank, if you are sitting on the bike the smaller pipe which attaches to the left of the petrol tank this then s a small metal pipe which goes through the petrol tank to a hole in the top left side of the filer cap if any fuel is spilt it would run down this hole and into the evap unit. The larger pipe on the right side attaches also has a metal pipe running in the petrol tank and stops near the top which drains off any fuel to the evap unit if you over fill or tip over the bike. I think the right side pipe need to be kept open as this also seems to be the breather pipe to the petrol tank as there is not one in the filer cap on this bike and may cause a vacum in the tank when blocked.i have kept both pipes open and ran the down to the undersection of the bike. This is just my take on it so i thought i would share i may help.
Hi Mark…. Thanks for your kind words. What you’ve said above is incorrect. As you sit on the bike there is a pipe on the left and a pipe on the right of the fuel tank. The right side one is the larger diameter pipe and the left side one is the smaller diameter. The larger one should be blocked using the M8 bolt that comes with the delete kit and the thinner pipe should be left open. This is indeed what the fitting instructions detail with the kit. I did mine weeks ago and use the bike daily for going to work and for leisure too, so prolonged use. I’ve done over 500 miles since removing the Evap system and fitting it as per my video….no fuel starvation, no vacuum in the tank, no hissing when removing the fuel cap. Just first time start, hot or cold, better tick ever when temporarily left on the side stand. No problems whatsoever. Having said all that, I suspect that the two pipes could be left open, despite instructions to the contrary. How about your doing exactly that when your kit arrives and posting the results? That would be very interesting. I also wondered whether simply joining the two wires together that operate the purge valve would remove the necessity of the bypass plug?! It’s a simple on/off solenoid only. Another option might be to remove the cartridge etc and leave the purge valve connected electrically only…….that would keep the ECU happy
Did it ever show up? I had the most unbelievably bad experience with the fueldongle seller on Ebay. Made me curious as to whether he has a pattern of doing it.
Useful vid thanks James. I've removed the EVAP on my E4 Conti GT650 (2019), I decided to leave the cross pipe between the throttle bodies and blank off the 'T' piece. My reasoning is that there's a designed cross link air bleed between the throttles and it's not necessary to remove it to achieve EVAP removal. Works just fine. Also getting the valve out using your method work nicely especially if you pull (hard) the pipe off the right hand side first and then use the left hand pipe to finagle it out. Just for interest, I put an ohmmeter across the dummy plug (two pins) and it's a 10kohm resister.
Just did my evap removal, easy really, the valve can be got at via the rear wheel opening. No issues with running and at just over 1000 miles it was solid inside like yours. Thanks for the common sense vids 👍 keep up the good work. Fitted the front sprocket also and this make 500rpm difference so a bit smoother and a little more mpg 😅
Bom dia James , moro no Brasil e gostaria de eliminar o Evap , esse kit que vcs usam não existe aqui , tem outra forma de eliminar o deposito de cartão e deixar o restante original , isolando apenas a mangueira de retorno para o motor ?
Yes±. You can leave the purge valve connected electrically but remove all the pipes from it. The either block off each of the two inlet manifold stubs or join them together with a piece of the redundant pipe.
Don't expect an answer but you never know! What If I just emptied charcoal out and just drilled a few holes in the cannister and replaced with all lines attached? It would solve problem I would have thought. Cheers much appreciate your videos. 👍
Actually, a kit isn’t actually needed. All you need to do is remove the evap cartridge and but leave the purge valve electrically connected so the ECU knows it’s there. Then block off the larger of the two pipes which lead from the fuel tank to the evap cartridge using an M8 bolt. Then join together the two inlet manifold stubs using a length of rubber tube.
Do we really need a delete kit? I removed the evap can, which was saturated, blanked off the three hoses with 2 x M6 and 1 x M8 bolts tie wrapped so they seal properly. I left the valve in situ, still connected to the loom so I don't need the plug. Is it just me or are people going over the top by removing everything?
Yes, what you’ve done is an option, although only the m8 hose is blocked when using the delete kit. One of the other two hoses is the tank breather though and shouldn’t be blocked, as far as I’m aware (mine isn’t). It did occur to me after fitting my delete kit that it would have been possible to leave the purge valve in situ and let it do its thing and keep the ECU happy. But I thought it’s a component which could malfunction at some point, triggering the EMS warning light. So I was ok about removing it and binning it. Tbh, the little electrical plug that comes with the delete kit is probably just something that joins the two wires together! Possibly…….. In any event, I wanted the neat little bungs that block the inlet manifold tubes and didn’t begrudge the minimal expense of the delete kit really. But, yes, leaving the purge valve in is certainly an option. My bike has run perfectly ever since (now over 7,000miles)…..starts first time, no stuttering, stalling etc. And, even though the bike is kept in a garage that gets quite hot due to the metal roof, I’ve never once smelled petrol vapour in there!
Excellent intructional video, better starting and running and an extra pound of crap removed thes uses energy to accelerate and decelerate about for the life of the motorcycle. Nice job!
It makes a massive difference, eh? I was seriously thinking about selling my Enfield because of the lousy starting, engine cutting off at low speed from cold, three presses of the starter button every single time in order to get it to fire. Then ditched all the Evap garbage and it transformed the bike! I’m pleased my little efforts have helped you!
Hi James thanks for posting video on removing evap system, I do however have a question is there a separate fuel tank vent ,ie breathes through tank cap, Can not see the point of evap if this is the case. Thanks again for all your postings Regards Richard caselton.
No…it breathes via the Evap canister…..that’s what it’s there for…..to soak up breather petrol vapour, absorb it into the canister and then burn the vapour next time the engine is started. But it’s easy for the canister to get filled with petrol (as opposed to petrol vapour) if the tank is ‘overfilled’, although nobody really seems to know what constitutes overfilling!
@@internetpolification Hi James thanks for your reply, I do understand the system but do not agree with blocking the vent from the tank if there is no other vent as this Would set up a vacuum in tank as fiel is used all tanks have some sort of vent Would appreciate your thoughts on this, Thanks again for a fantastic site. Regards Richard.
@@richardcaselton5377 Hi Richard. The fuel tank has two pipes, one on the left and one on the right. They both connect to the Evap cartridge. One of them is the fuel tank breather tube which allows the tank fuel to be used without creating a vacuum because of the sealed fuel filler cap. The Evap cartridge is not a sealed box…it has its own breather which tucks behind the battery. So the tank can breathe but the gases go through the charcoal in the cartridge which absorbs them. But when the cartridge gets full of raw petrol, it doesn’t work properly and, in my case, led to poor starting and stalling which stopped the minute I removed the Evap system. The filler cap itself is sealed and doesn’t have a breather vent, I believe, because the breathing is done via one of the pipes from the tank.
Great content James, well explained too. Perhaps a hands free type kit with a microphone built in might help the audio for not much outlay? I appreciate its difficult when starting out and learning how to present videos, i think i would be terrible at it but im sure you will get there 👍
James, did you also remove the evaporative system on your car? I mean, it would be JUST one bike and one car letting the fumes out into the atmosphere.
Thanks for posting this video. I bought the same kit a month ago, but I couldn't work out the instructions so havent installed it yet! So, the two rubber caps are for the connections at the throttle body and you leave the pipe coming from the tank installed, capping it off where it terminates lower down? I only received the plug for the harness and two ruber caps in my pack?
Yes, that’s it. Sitting on the bike, the left side manifold has TWO stubs with pipes attached and the right side has only one stub. You need to remove the outer one on the left manifold and the only pipe on the right side one. They look exactly the same. So you’ll know which one to take off on the left side manifold. Basically the one nearest to you. Then put the rubber bungs onto the brass stubs. These stubs have the T-shaped pipe shown in my video attached to them and they join just behind the rear rocker cover and the one pipe they form goes to the purge valve. The pipe attached to the charcoal canister at the TANK stub is the one you need to block off with an M8 (aka 8mm) short bolt. It’s not a problem if your kit didn’t have one as any short M8 bolt will do…stainless steel being better, of course. Just screw the bolt (Allen bolt is better) into the pipe. The pipe nearest to you on the canister, looked at from the rear of the bike, is a breather which goes up round the back of the battery. So, you basically pull the pipes off the canister, then remove the canister by undoing the retaining clamp and sliding the canister to the right side of the bike, then jiggle it out past the wheel. You have to pull the pipes off first, of course. Once you find the purge valve, pull it towards you on the left of the bike and it will come off the lug under the battery tray and get it closer to you as you reach over the sprocket, (newly exposed after removing the sprocket cover). The electrical connector on the purge valve was tricky to pull off as it has a spring clip on the left side and a small plastic clip on the right side plus some sort of collar. It also has a waterproof rubber seal which made pulling it out of the purge valve slightly tricky. In the end, since I knew I had no intention of ever using the purge valve again, I just broke the clips off with a screwdriver and prised the connector out. The clips are on the purge valve side and not the connector side, so it didn’t matter. Then it’s easy to connect the black plastic connector that came with your kit. And the wiring harness is long enough to have the connector live under the left side panel, held onto the wiring harness with a cable tie. Once the purge valve is disconnected from the wiring and also from the charcoal canister, it’s easy to pull it out from the right side of the bike. Just remove all pipe which was attached to the canister. There is another small pipe from the tank which needs to stay put and the big one with the M8 bolt in stays, of course. That’s basically it. As I mentioned in the video, my canister was full of petrol and just can’t have been doing anything at all. I hope that helps. It sounds a bit complicated perhaps but it really isn’t. The hardest part was finding the valve (event though I have a manual for the bike) and getting the electrical connector out of it. But all worth doing. I hope that helps…… post on here when you’ve done the job! It will be interesting to know the state of your canister and whether it’s full of petrol 😀
Hey, thanks for the detailed reply! I was hoping to have a go today, but got distracted tidying up a few other bits on the bike! I aim to get it done in the next week or so 🤞
@@dan3535 post and let me know how you get on! And whether your charcoal cartridge is full of petrol…….. One thing I’ve noticed since doing mine…better starting when the engine is hot. It had become necessary to hit the starter two or three times when the engine was hot. Now I don’t need to do that. It might have been the purge valve opening and the manifolds trying to suck petrol from the cartridge. In any event, it’s a lot better now……
Nice video James. How does the fuel tank vent now if you have plugged the vent line that ran to the canister? And is there a noticeable fuel smell now that vapours are no longer running to the charcoal canister? Also, given that vacuum plugs for the manifold and 8mm screw for the tube are so readily available would a similar solution just be to remove the canister and it's tubes, leave the valve where it is (connected to the harness), plug the ports on both the valve and manifold, and put the screw into the tube? This would still leave the valve there for the ECU to control, but surely the plug that comes in the kit is either just a shorted dummy plug or a resistor of equal resistance to the original valve? Seems like maybe an easy home solution rather than buy the kit? Cheers
Thank you. Yes the tank vents perfectly by the unblocked, smaller diameter pipe which is left in place. No…no smell of petrol at all…….. in fact there was a smell BEFORE I removed the Evap system because the filter cartridge was full of fuel! And yes, the solution you mentioned could easily be accomplished but I wanted to remove the valve entirely to eliminate a component that could go wrong (unlikely I suppose, but it could happen…)…..but yes, it could easily be done how you suggested. It occurred to me after having used the kit but I do prefer that the valve is now completely out of the bike….
@@internetpolification thanks for the response mate, appreciate it. I'm glad I happened upon this video and you mentioning that it has solved your hot start issue, since I too have experienced it. The multiple hits needed to start is kinda embarrassing and reinforces what I think are mainly untrue stereotypes about RE being poorly made bikes. My bike is now an 865cc big bore but the variability in starting has probably started more recently than my engine modification so am hoping the evap is the cause. Such a confusing comment about "not overfilling" the fuel tank. If I'm gearing up for a long ride I'm definitely wanting to have the tank completely full, since I've had some serious range anxiety on some long rural roads just inland from the Australian east coast where I've needed every last drop to get to the next fuel station. I'm sure the designers know that people completely filling their tank is a normal thing for most users. So...what happens if we "overfill" the tank now? Fuel will just go down the plugged hose and sit there for ever I guess?
@@MrJulianneave I’ve filled my tank since and never lost a drop of fuel. I did think it might drain from the vent tube but it hasn’t so far…. Yes, I understand exactly what you mean re the embarrassment factor. 2-4 pushes of the starter button with the engine firing up each time and then stopping. It even did it with the bike moving having engaged first gear to turn the bike round in a tight circle which meant I almost fell off!Plus all that wear on the starter motor which, at that rate, would be 4 times ‘older’ than the rest of the bike, strain on the battery and alternator to belatedly catch up with the charge required for the battery after all those false starts……. I even got to the point of thinking that I ought to sell the bike, much as I liked it. Then, having removed the Evap kit, it never did any of the above ever again. Not once. Not ever. First start every time and no cutting out. First start after 2 months of not using the bike. Etc. Totally cured. I’d remove the Evap kit and then see what’s what! Do your idea of leaving the valve in there first and get rid of everything else and block the larger diameter tube and the manifold stubs. If it cures it (please report back……) then you could consider paying out for the kit or…more likely……just leave the valve in and run the bike 😀
@@internetpolification I had a go of just removing the hose connections from the throttle bodies and plugging the vacuum nipples this afternoon. I left everything else as is, including just leaving the hoses from the evap valve to the throttle bodies unplugged and open. I figured that by doing this I was removing the only means that the evap system had of affecting engine operation. It idled a bit differently when first starting but settled down to a normal idle, but my hot starting issue was not resolved. If anything I feel like there was one starting attempt that was much harder than normal. Maybe I'm missing something with how I left the rest of the evap system and I haven't effectively isolated it, or maybe I should have idled it for like 10 mins to let the ECU learn that idle no longer equals fuel rich air coming from the evap canister, but results so far aren't as promising as I was hoping.
so i got a little kit from Spain, removed the canster, removed the purge valve but the plug they supplied to replace the purge valve doesnt fit, do you think i can replace the purge valve, plug the hose from the tank and let the vslve sit there doing nothing so to speak, thanks, rich
Solo ocurre en el arranque de la moto? La mía comenzó a regular a 1000rpm con 3900km. En caliente en frío en todo momento siempre regula a 1000rpm. Ese mismo problema tenía usted?
Just done this today thanks to your sprocket cover tip. Also did the air injection delete. On another note I've purchased some switch gear to do that swap.
Excellent! Yes, that sprocket cover removal helps a lot, eh? 😀 If you’ve bought the FJ1200 left switchgear, you’ll find it’s an easy fit using the OEM wiring from the OEM switch.l..and it means the OEM connector block is still used which makes life much easier. If you have any issues with the throttle side, just post here and I’ll give you my phone number. I did just post a lengthy response about the right side switch etc to a comment on one of my other videos……it’s the one that is partly titled with “Interceptor worship” …I’ll find the link and post it here in a minute. I detail what’s involved with the right side. It’s slightly trickier but really not hard
Here’s what I put to the person who asked re the switchgear in the other video…… No, the OEM throttle tube just won’t fit. I did try that first on the replacement right hand assembly but it’s all about the diameter of the end of the tube (the inner side which has the throttle cable nipples in it)…the OEM tube just won’t go into the CM400 switch assembly. So I used the entire switch/tube. There is some slight modification needed to the way the cables connect into the switch body. The OEM return cable (which closes off the throttle when the twistgrip is released) has a threaded nut on the outer sleeve which screws into the OEM switch casing and the pull cable (which operates the throttle when you twist it to accelerate) just has a round shoulder on the outer sheath and slots into the body of the OEM switch and is held in by a small clamp which screws into the switch casing. With me so far? The threaded nut on the OEM return cable is too big to screw into the threaded hole on the CM400 switch casing, so it needs to be just left in place on the cable and ignored. But it’s now necessary to hold the cable into the new switch casing so I used the one that came with the CM400 throttle assembly that I bought…it came with (useless) cables still attached. I cut this cable and removed the nut which was obviously the correct size to fit into the threaded hole on the switch casing. Then it’s a case of getting the nut onto the OEM inner cable……of course the nipple stops it sliding on…..so I put the nut into a vice and cut a slot into it with a fine grinder disc……..it doesn’t weaken it and the slot allowed the nut to go onto the inner cable, screw into the switch casing and thereby hold the outer cable into the casing. With me thus far? So that’s the return cable sorted out. The pull cable has the metal shoulder on the outer casing and slots into the replacement switch casing just like on the original switch casing. But…..there’s no threaded hole to attach the small clamp to which holds the cable in place on the original. So……I drilled a hole in the replacement casing, tapped a thread into it and this then took a small Allen bolt which holds the clamp in place in the switch casing and the forked end of the clamp holds the outer cable sheath in place in the casing. The above sounds complicated but it actually isn’t! The left switchgear is dead easy however. If you decide to change the switchgear, I’ll give you my email address/phone number and run it all by you. Personally, I love this mod. The indicator switch is incomparably better and I no longer get complete ignition failure caused by the awful OEM engine kill switch!
@@internetpolification yeah I read that yesterday, it was myself who asked you. Just watching your wheel seal video, that seems a good shout to pre empt the issues it will cause.
Hi James how does the tank breathe, the small pipe is only a drain from the neck, if you blank the tank pipe with the bolt there is no way it can breathe, I fitted the kit but opening the tank filler you can hear air rush in. Ps anyone ordering one quote the year, mine came with the wrong plug, so fitted purge valve blanked of,f plus do not short out this is a resistor plug. I read the other thread of similar conclusions, maybe your not experiencing hissing is the fact your cap is not sealing, solenoids arnt a switch so don’t short out, the ecu needs to see 25 ohm resistance.
As a test, I wonder what would happen if I were to just disconnect the pipes from the canister and allow them to breath free and leave everything in place for now?
The larger diameter pipe which is on the right side of the fuel tank needs to be blocked with an 8mm bolt though. The purge valve would still operate though and allow the inlet manifolds to suck air in, as opposed to sucking the vapour content of the charcoal cartridge. I suspect that your idea wouldn’t work because of that. You should block the two inlet manifold stubs, block the right side the fuel tank pipe which goes to the canister (using an 8mm bolt) and leave the purge valve electrically connected but with the pipes disconnected. This would effectively disconnect the charcoal canister and remove the need for the delete kit (because that connects to the wires that go to the purge valve). This means the ECU still recognises that the purge valve is connected (so no error message) but, because the inlet manifold stubs are blocked, the purge valve doesn’t actually DO anything apart from open on command from the ECU and say it’s there. That would work. Question…what are you trying to test?
In answer to my own question……you want to test that nothing will go wrong, right? All I can say is that after constant rough starting and running and stalling, by doing exactly what I detailed in the video, every single problem disappeared immediately. If you want to have it both ways (and don’t mind spending £20)…….buy the delete kit and install it as per my video. And…like me……keep everything you remove (it’s easily reinstalled)…..then run the bike and revel in the instant starting hot or cold, no stalling, no sudden engine stops after a cold or hot start and feeling like the bike has just had a new engine. Then throw the entire Evap kit into the nearest dustbin. It would be a good idea to remove the cartridge…easily done and leaving everything else in place and just see if it drips petrol like mine (and others) did
@@internetpolification Thanks so very much for the comprehensive explanation James. I just read back my question and sorry it wasn't better worded (but thankfully it looks like you managed to get the gist). But to clarify, what I was aiming to do was test the idea of a EVAP "delete" without actually physically removing it. Initially, the aim being to conclusively prove to myself that it was the EVAP that was causing the warm start issues on my particular Interceptor and that excluding it does not adversely effect anything else. It is looking very likely that it is the cause and it is fine to remove it based on your research, but I wanted to do a simple exclusion test. And if that test works, then there's probably little need to actually physically remove it. Leaving the valve in place eliminates the need for an electrical bypass and leaving the canister keeps the components behind it protected from road muck (plus if, in the unlikely event that in the fullness of time some other issue caused by it's removal presents itself, it easy to reverse). That was the way my tiny mind reasoned with the problem, I hope it makes sense, I think you second guessed it anyway and your explanations are very helpful. The big takeaway for me is that you think that sucking in clean air into the inlet manifolds (rather than vapour from the canister) will cause a problem? Can you go a little more into what sort of problem that would cause please? It wouldn't be difficult to block them (presumably just pull the pipe off the end of the valve and block it with a bolt), so it's not a big deal, and as you suggest also block the large pipe from the tank. Thanks again and keep up the great work with your video's, they are so helpful!
what triggers the purge valve to open.?. If it opens periodically and not by some pressure sensor of the vapor build-up. You would think that not removing but just putting a block in the pipe from the tank and leaving everything as it is including the tank pipe, would be ok. The purge valve can open and shut or not without any effect on the bike .
@@michaeltowler2632 yes, I agree. The delete kit isn’t that necessary if one does it that way. It occurred to me after buying the kit and removing the Evap system. I suppose the delete kit means a cleaner removal though and removes the risk of purge valve malfunction in the future
Thank you for the explanations. The anti-pollution system is really useless. One question, the ECU will continue to work without the purge valve since you installed a fake plug, correct? Could you please provide the link to this fake plug that you installed in place of the purge valve?
Yes the ECU functions. However, what you can do is disconnect all the pipes to the purge valve but leave it in place and electrically connected. You can then use a piece of the redundant pipework to join the two stubs on the inlet manifolds together. Thus cheaper than buying the ‘delete kit’ which is only two rubber bungs and a 10kohm resistor. So, I would simply leave the purge valve in place!
Please could you advise of a retailer who could sell me a kit to deal with the electronic side of this? (The plug kit to replace the EVAP valve.) There don't seem to be any companies advertising this sort of kit in the UK.
I bought mine from eBay but I see that there aren’t any on eBay U.K. at present. There are some in Italy but they look very expensive. However….here’s a solution…. You can remove the Evap cartridge and disconnect the pipes to the purge valve as per the video, blocking off the larger pipe with an 8mm bolt (again, as per the video) BUT leave the purge valve itself in place, still connected to the wiring harness. Then block off the two inlet manifold stubs with something suitable eg a small piece of the original pipe, blocked off and put on each stub or, in the case of one subscriber to my little channel, join the two stubs up with a longer piece of the original pipe. Effectively this bypasses the purge valve but the ECU still operates the purge valve but it doesn’t know it’s not actually accomplishing anything. The subscriber this said it works fine…..
Hey. Hoping for help. Cannot trust my dealer. They changed a ruptured (!!!) tank. I suspected external breather/other blockage as there was massive pressure that caused a pinhole seam split. Cap nearly blew of in my hand. So I’m home and guess what, still massive pressure of left sitting in sun 30min. Do you think evap could be culprit?
@@internetpolification for info (if ever happens to others, highly improbable), was completely kinked tank breather hose, jammed tight by battery - from factory apparently. All good now. Will still delete evap one day!
That’s almost guaranteed! If you have any problems starting the engine eg repeated presses of the starter button, starting and then stopping, rough running, stalling etc then it will be the saturated Evap cartridge. My bike was terrible for all of that when I first got it and I was going to sell it! It went in for the first three weeks I had the bike until I had a think about it and read the service manual and thought about the evap system. One thing…you don't need a ‘delete kit’. Do as I did in the video but leave the purge valve in place and electrically connected but with all the pipes eliminated as per the video. Then you can either block off the stub on each inlet manifold with a rubber cap OR just join them together with a piece of the redundant pipe from the Evap. The ECU still communicates with the purge valve and opens it (on every start, I believe) but it doesn’t do anything in terms of the now-removed cartridge. The ‘delete kit’ is two rubber caps and a resistor in a plug that fits into the block connector that goes on the purge valve, a bit of a ripoff at £30 or so. The purge valve is a simple solenoid switch…nothing fancy. So you can leave it plugged in and let it open and close at the will of the ECU (which remains happy and fooled) and block the stubs off or just join them together. I wish I’d thought it earlier as I paid £30 for very little! Learning curve….lol
Pa. Once you’ve removed the cartridge and piping, get a hacksaw on the cartridge and empty out the (saturated) charcoal. I put mine into a metal bowl and set fire to it…..it burned for 15 minutes like mini-barbecue!
Did you watch the video? It’s all explained in there in detail but, put simply, the Evap system often causes bad cold starting, even worse hot starting, lumpy tickover and even stalling.
@@nickbasiliou5744 such courtesy is admirable. Honestly though, removing the Evap system has transformed my bike which is only 18 months old and done 5,000 miles. It got to be a right pain with difficult starting etc. now it’s completely and utterly cured
@@DANTHETUBEMAN mine was a swine to start cold, just as bad hot, stalling, engine starting up and stopping immediately, necessitating several ‘starts’. I removed the Evap system and……all….all….every singleon…..all of the problems disappeared immediately…never to return….
Hi there, I've recently done this delete too. Have you had engine management issues. Mine has flashed up twice with purge system open after opening the petrol cap and refueling. I'm noticing that when the fuel is low, I'm getting a rush of air into the tank now. This wasn't happening with the Evap system in place.
No, no issues with the management light so far for me. I have a code reader just in case. A rush of air into the tank would suggest that the tank is not breathing, so the fuel pump is pumping and creating a partial vacuum in the tank which is released when the fuel cap is removed. Are you sure you blocked the correct pipe with the bolt? There are two pipes under the tank which lead down to the bottom of the bike. One has to be left unblocked and I suspect that’s the one that lets the tank breathe. Have you tried removing the bolt completely and seeing what happens
Just thinking….I wonder what her effect of connecting up the purge valve into the wiring harness would be? ie replacing the delete kit plug-in and putting the purge valve back but unconnected to pipes, cartridge etc.? The valve doesn’t look hi-tech to me and seems to be a simple on/off gadget which allows the actual ‘purge’ to be achieved by the inlet manifold suction. So, if your ecu has an issue with the delete plug-in, maybe connecting up the purge valve would keep the ecu happy? That is, of course, after you check re the pipes, as in my previous reply.
The two pipes (let's say left and right if sitting on the bike) are different gauges. The larger one on the right hand side, I have blocked as the other is too small for the bolt.
@@EvenIris yes, that’s correct then. I just checked on my bike. Yes, you’re correct re the bolt size and it not fitting in the other pipe. I lay next to mine just now and sucked on the thinner gauge pipe and it’s not blocked and tastes vaguely of petrol vapour. That pipe connects on the left side of the rear of the tank. If you undo the two retaining bolts for the tank, it will lift enough to see the pipe and where it goes into the tank. Is your thinner gauge pipe clear and not blocked?
@@EvenIris looking at the manual, the thinner diameter pipe which connects to the LEFT side of the fuel tank (viewed as if sitting on the bike) is called the “drain hose connector”and the larger diameter pipe on the RIGHT (the one with the bolt in) is called the “Evap connection hose”. So you’ve blocked off the correct pipe, of course. The drain hose connects to the left stub and whatever it connects to is inside the fuel tank. My guess is that it is some sort of breather. Is yours blocked?
I ordered one of those kits yesterday. Hopefully it's not too much of a faff to fit, I've had a look at your detailed instructions. I wonder if my canister is full of fuel. Ride safe
I don’t think you’ll regret doing it. Just remember to remove the sprocket cover and side panel. If you look for the purge valve (with a torch..it’s dark in there) you’ll see that clip first, probably. If you grab that clip and pull towards you, the purge valve will come off the little bracket that it clips on to, and towards you…..there’s plenty of wire on the wiring harness to allow this and also on the rubber pipes. This will enable you to grab the purge valve. The trickiest bit I found was getting the electrical connector out of the purge valve! It has a weird clip thing and another push tab and a rubber seal which grips tightly. I finally got a small screwdriver into the clip and broke it all off…it’s part of the purge valve and not the wiring harness block connector. Then it was a case of pulling the plug out of the purge valve against the yellow seal trying to keep it in there. Just persevere and it will come out. Pull the wiring harness block connector toward you and attach the bypass plug in your kit and I then cable-tied it to keep it accessible under the left side panel. I tied it to the wiring harness there. After that, it’s just a case of removing the charcoal cartridge from under the bike…..make sure you mark the ‘TANK’ pipe ie the pipe that goes to the middle tube on the canister that says ‘tank’…that’s the one that you block with the Allen bolt. The other one stays open and unblocked. The charcoal cartridge has a breather which goes up near the battery ….just remove it. And all the other pipes which come down from the manifold stubs, round the back of the cylinder head and down through clips in the frame on the right hand side of the bike. Just remove them all. Then block the stubs on the inlet manifold with the caps in your kit. The LEFT side manifold has an extra stub on the inside of the one you need to block. Just ignore that. It’s the outer of the two on the left side…the one which had the tube attached, same as on the right hand side. I appreciate doing this job every time I get on my bike (several times today) and start the engine first time every time instead of what was going on before. Any problems, post here. And do let everyone know if you have petrol in the canister and post about the difference! 😀
@@internetpolification I've removed all the pipes and the canister, was a bit more of a faff than I expected but the bikes all ready for when the kit arrives. Your instructions are spot on, thanks for sharing that. The charcoal canister is full of fuel, just like yours, doesn't rattle either. I'll let you know how the bike preforms once I've given it a good test. Ride safe.
@@paulstoker7650 wow..that just goes to show, doesn’t it? Full of fuel just like mine and I bet you’re not aware of having ‘overfilled’ the tank? So easily done, it seems, and then problems after that. Yes, it’s a bit of a faff getting that purge valve electrical connector out, did you find? I thought the rest was easy enough…just removing the pipes. Make sure you plug the delete electrical plug in well and then cable tie it to the wiring harness that’s visible under the left side panel. Nice and dry in there, I reckon. Yes, please do post here the results after test starting and riding……
@@internetpolification The delete kit will hopefully arrive today, I'll let you know how I get on after the test. One thing I did notice is that there's a fair bit of electrical wiring at the back of the engine, the charcoal canister is doing a good job of stopping all the road dirt, water and salt from being flung onto the back of the engine and electrical connections. Rather than fabricate a plate to extend the mudguard down, to cover the gap. I've re fitted the disconnected charcoal canister just to protect the back of the engine and electrical wiring. Ride safe and thanks for the advice.
@@paulstoker7650 yes I was of the same opinion that the canister was doing a good job protecting the solenoid and rectumfrier. EVAP delete completed but canister put back in situ - it weighs sod all anyway. I might even cut it in half at some stage ..
Hi. Yes, it will. It’s a slightly different kit from the one in the link I posted but the same eBay seller has the correct one for the later bikes. The difference is that the block terminal on your wiring harness, that fits into the purge valve, is a different shape. If you contact the seller in the link I posted and give him the year of your bike, he will send you the right one. I noticed he had two kits and checked before I bought mine. I’ve literally just got in off my bike and am still so happy with immediate starting, first time every time!
Bikes are significantly less polluting than cars, so enjoy guilt free! The purge valve system seems absurd and adds weight which leads to increased fuel consumption and more pollution. So removal probably makes sense.
It certainly made me NOT sell my bike! Honestly, it was so bad, I thought I’d have to get rid of it. Removed the Evap and all starting problems disappeared immediately
Removed my evap, itwas soaked in gas (I never overfill fuel tank) and had constant starting, running and idling issues. Bike now runs like a dream
Amazing difference, is t it? I almost sold my bike due to the rubbish starting etc. truly. Removing the Evap system cured it all and I still have the bike of course
I would like to say a MASSIVE THANK YOU to You JAMES👌👌👌
I would never have attempted this had it not been for You and Your guidance!!
Thanks for Your endeavour to share Your knowledge!!
Thanks also Your support during my efforts 👍
I managed to complete this procedure and my Interceptor is running sweeter than before 😁
You’re welcome, Dean, and I’m very pleased indeed that you have succeeded! Your next mod is the RR extension cables, right? You have my phone number and, if you need any help, feel free to ring me!
Hi James thankyou for posting this video and others you do its great people like you take the time and effirt to share these things.
I am still awaiting my euro 5 kit to be delivered but i have removed the evap trash unit ready.I have checked out the 2 x rubber pipes going to the petrol tank, if you are sitting on the bike the smaller pipe which attaches to the left of the petrol tank this then s a small metal pipe which goes through the petrol tank to a hole in the top left side of the filer cap if any fuel is spilt it would run down this hole and into the evap unit.
The larger pipe on the right side attaches also has a metal pipe running in the petrol tank and stops near the top which drains off any fuel to the evap unit if you over fill or tip over the bike.
I think the right side pipe need to be kept open as this also seems to be the breather pipe to the petrol tank as there is not one in the filer cap on this bike and may cause a vacum in the tank when blocked.i have kept both pipes open and ran the down to the undersection of the bike.
This is just my take on it so i thought i would share i may help.
Hi Mark…. Thanks for your kind words. What you’ve said above is incorrect. As you sit on the bike there is a pipe on the left and a pipe on the right of the fuel tank. The right side one is the larger diameter pipe and the left side one is the smaller diameter. The larger one should be blocked using the M8 bolt that comes with the delete kit and the thinner pipe should be left open. This is indeed what the fitting instructions detail with the kit. I did mine weeks ago and use the bike daily for going to work and for leisure too, so prolonged use. I’ve done over 500 miles since removing the Evap system and fitting it as per my video….no fuel starvation, no vacuum in the tank, no hissing when removing the fuel cap. Just first time start, hot or cold, better tick ever when temporarily left on the side stand. No problems whatsoever.
Having said all that, I suspect that the two pipes could be left open, despite instructions to the contrary. How about your doing exactly that when your kit arrives and posting the results? That would be very interesting.
I also wondered whether simply joining the two wires together that operate the purge valve would remove the necessity of the bypass plug?! It’s a simple on/off solenoid only. Another option might be to remove the cartridge etc and leave the purge valve connected electrically only…….that would keep the ECU happy
Did it ever show up? I had the most unbelievably bad experience with the fueldongle seller on Ebay. Made me curious as to whether he has a pattern of doing it.
I'm glad you got it sorted. The whole evap system seems silly.
It certainly is silly! And almost made me get rid of the bike!
Useful vid thanks James. I've removed the EVAP on my E4 Conti GT650 (2019), I decided to leave the cross pipe between the throttle bodies and blank off the 'T' piece. My reasoning is that there's a designed cross link air bleed between the throttles and it's not necessary to remove it to achieve EVAP removal. Works just fine. Also getting the valve out using your method work nicely especially if you pull (hard) the pipe off the right hand side first and then use the left hand pipe to finagle it out. Just for interest, I put an ohmmeter across the dummy plug (two pins) and it's a 10kohm resister.
Just did my evap removal, easy really, the valve can be got at via the rear wheel opening. No issues with running and at just over 1000 miles it was solid inside like yours.
Thanks for the common sense vids 👍 keep up the good work.
Fitted the front sprocket also and this make 500rpm difference so a bit smoother and a little more mpg 😅
Hi, Do you get engine error sign by removing the EVAP system ?
Bom dia James , moro no Brasil e gostaria de eliminar o Evap , esse kit que vcs usam não existe aqui , tem outra forma de eliminar o deposito de cartão e deixar o restante original , isolando apenas a mangueira de retorno para o motor ?
Yes±. You can leave the purge valve connected electrically but remove all the pipes from it. The either block off each of the two inlet manifold stubs or join them together with a piece of the redundant pipe.
Ok, deu certo obrigado pela informação.
Great!
Amigo vc fez? Oq resultou? e como fez? abraços
Don't expect an answer but you never know! What If I just emptied charcoal out and just drilled a few holes in the cannister and replaced with all lines attached? It would solve problem I would have thought. Cheers much appreciate your videos. 👍
That would work! Although it’s easy enough to remove the system entirely ant negligible cost……
Where to get the evap delete kit?
Actually, a kit isn’t actually needed. All you need to do is remove the evap cartridge and but leave the purge valve electrically connected so the ECU knows it’s there. Then block off the larger of the two pipes which lead from the fuel tank to the evap cartridge using an M8 bolt. Then join together the two inlet manifold stubs using a length of rubber tube.
Done mine on my gt650 all good,Have also removed the re-cycling set up on the cyl head.
Do we really need a delete kit?
I removed the evap can, which was saturated, blanked off the three hoses with 2 x M6 and 1 x M8 bolts tie wrapped so they seal properly. I left the valve in situ, still connected to the loom so I don't need the plug.
Is it just me or are people going over the top by removing everything?
Yes, what you’ve done is an option, although only the m8 hose is blocked when using the delete kit. One of the other two hoses is the tank breather though and shouldn’t be blocked, as far as I’m aware (mine isn’t). It did occur to me after fitting my delete kit that it would have been possible to leave the purge valve in situ and let it do its thing and keep the ECU happy. But I thought it’s a component which could malfunction at some point, triggering the EMS warning light. So I was ok about removing it and binning it. Tbh, the little electrical plug that comes with the delete kit is probably just something that joins the two wires together! Possibly…….. In any event, I wanted the neat little bungs that block the inlet manifold tubes and didn’t begrudge the minimal expense of the delete kit really. But, yes, leaving the purge valve in is certainly an option.
My bike has run perfectly ever since (now over 7,000miles)…..starts first time, no stuttering, stalling etc. And, even though the bike is kept in a garage that gets quite hot due to the metal roof, I’ve never once smelled petrol vapour in there!
Ps. The delete kit plug is, I’ve been told, simply a 4 ohm resistor in a handy little plug……..
Excellent intructional video, better starting and running and an extra pound of crap removed thes uses energy to accelerate and decelerate about for the life of the motorcycle. Nice job!
It makes a massive difference, eh? I was seriously thinking about selling my Enfield because of the lousy starting, engine cutting off at low speed from cold, three presses of the starter button every single time in order to get it to fire. Then ditched all the Evap garbage and it transformed the bike! I’m pleased my little efforts have helped you!
Hi James thanks for posting video on removing evap system, I do however have a question is there a separate fuel tank vent ,ie breathes through tank cap,
Can not see the point of evap if this is the case.
Thanks again for all your postings
Regards Richard caselton.
No…it breathes via the Evap canister…..that’s what it’s there for…..to soak up breather petrol vapour, absorb it into the canister and then burn the vapour next time the engine is started. But it’s easy for the canister to get filled with petrol (as opposed to petrol vapour) if the tank is ‘overfilled’, although nobody really seems to know what constitutes overfilling!
@@internetpolification Hi James thanks for your reply, I do understand the system but do not agree with blocking the vent from the tank if there is no other vent as this
Would set up a vacuum in tank as fiel is used all tanks have some sort of vent Would appreciate your thoughts on this,
Thanks again for a fantastic site.
Regards Richard.
@@richardcaselton5377 Hi Richard. The fuel tank has two pipes, one on the left and one on the right. They both connect to the Evap cartridge. One of them is the fuel tank breather tube which allows the tank fuel to be used without creating a vacuum because of the sealed fuel filler cap. The Evap cartridge is not a sealed box…it has its own breather which tucks behind the battery. So the tank can breathe but the gases go through the charcoal in the cartridge which absorbs them. But when the cartridge gets full of raw petrol, it doesn’t work properly and, in my case, led to poor starting and stalling which stopped the minute I removed the Evap system. The filler cap itself is sealed and doesn’t have a breather vent, I believe, because the breathing is done via one of the pipes from the tank.
Excuse my translator English. What happens when the water enters through the hole on the side of the fuel cap? Saludos desde chile
The pipe that drains the water remains open…….
Great content James, well explained too. Perhaps a hands free type kit with a microphone built in might help the audio for not much outlay? I appreciate its difficult when starting out and learning how to present videos, i think i would be terrible at it but im sure you will get there 👍
James, did you also remove the evaporative system on your car? I mean, it would be JUST one bike and one car letting the fumes out into the atmosphere.
@@JoeBytowner no evap on my 23 year old Ford Ranger! Simplicity!
Thanks for posting this video. I bought the same kit a month ago, but I couldn't work out the instructions so havent installed it yet! So, the two rubber caps are for the connections at the throttle body and you leave the pipe coming from the tank installed, capping it off where it terminates lower down? I only received the plug for the harness and two ruber caps in my pack?
Yes, that’s it. Sitting on the bike, the left side manifold has TWO stubs with pipes attached and the right side has only one stub. You need to remove the outer one on the left manifold and the only pipe on the right side one. They look exactly the same. So you’ll know which one to take off on the left side manifold. Basically the one nearest to you. Then put the rubber bungs onto the brass stubs. These stubs have the T-shaped pipe shown in my video attached to them and they join just behind the rear rocker cover and the one pipe they form goes to the purge valve. The pipe attached to the charcoal canister at the TANK stub is the one you need to block off with an M8 (aka 8mm) short bolt. It’s not a problem if your kit didn’t have one as any short M8 bolt will do…stainless steel being better, of course. Just screw the bolt (Allen bolt is better) into the pipe. The pipe nearest to you on the canister, looked at from the rear of the bike, is a breather which goes up round the back of the battery.
So, you basically pull the pipes off the canister, then remove the canister by undoing the retaining clamp and sliding the canister to the right side of the bike, then jiggle it out past the wheel. You have to pull the pipes off first, of course.
Once you find the purge valve, pull it towards you on the left of the bike and it will come off the lug under the battery tray and get it closer to you as you reach over the sprocket, (newly exposed after removing the sprocket cover). The electrical connector on the purge valve was tricky to pull off as it has a spring clip on the left side and a small plastic clip on the right side plus some sort of collar. It also has a waterproof rubber seal which made pulling it out of the purge valve slightly tricky. In the end, since I knew I had no intention of ever using the purge valve again, I just broke the clips off with a screwdriver and prised the connector out. The clips are on the purge valve side and not the connector side, so it didn’t matter. Then it’s easy to connect the black plastic connector that came with your kit. And the wiring harness is long enough to have the connector live under the left side panel, held onto the wiring harness with a cable tie. Once the purge valve is disconnected from the wiring and also from the charcoal canister, it’s easy to pull it out from the right side of the bike. Just remove all pipe which was attached to the canister. There is another small pipe from the tank which needs to stay put and the big one with the M8 bolt in stays, of course.
That’s basically it. As I mentioned in the video, my canister was full of petrol and just can’t have been doing anything at all.
I hope that helps. It sounds a bit complicated perhaps but it really isn’t. The hardest part was finding the valve (event though I have a manual for the bike) and getting the electrical connector out of it. But all worth doing.
I hope that helps…… post on here when you’ve done the job! It will be interesting to know the state of your canister and whether it’s full of petrol 😀
Hey, thanks for the detailed reply! I was hoping to have a go today, but got distracted tidying up a few other bits on the bike! I aim to get it done in the next week or so 🤞
@@dan3535 post and let me know how you get on! And whether your charcoal cartridge is full of petrol…….. One thing I’ve noticed since doing mine…better starting when the engine is hot. It had become necessary to hit the starter two or three times when the engine was hot. Now I don’t need to do that. It might have been the purge valve opening and the manifolds trying to suck petrol from the cartridge. In any event, it’s a lot better now……
Nice video James. How does the fuel tank vent now if you have plugged the vent line that ran to the canister? And is there a noticeable fuel smell now that vapours are no longer running to the charcoal canister?
Also, given that vacuum plugs for the manifold and 8mm screw for the tube are so readily available would a similar solution just be to remove the canister and it's tubes, leave the valve where it is (connected to the harness), plug the ports on both the valve and manifold, and put the screw into the tube? This would still leave the valve there for the ECU to control, but surely the plug that comes in the kit is either just a shorted dummy plug or a resistor of equal resistance to the original valve? Seems like maybe an easy home solution rather than buy the kit?
Cheers
Thank you. Yes the tank vents perfectly by the unblocked, smaller diameter pipe which is left in place. No…no smell of petrol at all…….. in fact there was a smell BEFORE I removed the Evap system because the filter cartridge was full of fuel! And yes, the solution you mentioned could easily be accomplished but I wanted to remove the valve entirely to eliminate a component that could go wrong (unlikely I suppose, but it could happen…)…..but yes, it could easily be done how you suggested. It occurred to me after having used the kit but I do prefer that the valve is now completely out of the bike….
@@internetpolification thanks for the response mate, appreciate it. I'm glad I happened upon this video and you mentioning that it has solved your hot start issue, since I too have experienced it. The multiple hits needed to start is kinda embarrassing and reinforces what I think are mainly untrue stereotypes about RE being poorly made bikes. My bike is now an 865cc big bore but the variability in starting has probably started more recently than my engine modification so am hoping the evap is the cause.
Such a confusing comment about "not overfilling" the fuel tank. If I'm gearing up for a long ride I'm definitely wanting to have the tank completely full, since I've had some serious range anxiety on some long rural roads just inland from the Australian east coast where I've needed every last drop to get to the next fuel station. I'm sure the designers know that people completely filling their tank is a normal thing for most users. So...what happens if we "overfill" the tank now? Fuel will just go down the plugged hose and sit there for ever I guess?
@@MrJulianneave I’ve filled my tank since and never lost a drop of fuel. I did think it might drain from the vent tube but it hasn’t so far….
Yes, I understand exactly what you mean re the embarrassment factor. 2-4 pushes of the starter button with the engine firing up each time and then stopping. It even did it with the bike moving having engaged first gear to turn the bike round in a tight circle which meant I almost fell off!Plus all that wear on the starter motor which, at that rate, would be 4 times ‘older’ than the rest of the bike, strain on the battery and alternator to belatedly catch up with the charge required for the battery after all those false starts……. I even got to the point of thinking that I ought to sell the bike, much as I liked it. Then, having removed the Evap kit, it never did any of the above ever again. Not once. Not ever. First start every time and no cutting out. First start after 2 months of not using the bike. Etc. Totally cured.
I’d remove the Evap kit and then see what’s what! Do your idea of leaving the valve in there first and get rid of everything else and block the larger diameter tube and the manifold stubs. If it cures it (please report back……) then you could consider paying out for the kit or…more likely……just leave the valve in and run the bike 😀
@@internetpolification I had a go of just removing the hose connections from the throttle bodies and plugging the vacuum nipples this afternoon. I left everything else as is, including just leaving the hoses from the evap valve to the throttle bodies unplugged and open. I figured that by doing this I was removing the only means that the evap system had of affecting engine operation. It idled a bit differently when first starting but settled down to a normal idle, but my hot starting issue was not resolved. If anything I feel like there was one starting attempt that was much harder than normal.
Maybe I'm missing something with how I left the rest of the evap system and I haven't effectively isolated it, or maybe I should have idled it for like 10 mins to let the ECU learn that idle no longer equals fuel rich air coming from the evap canister, but results so far aren't as promising as I was hoping.
Could you please share what’s the weight of the canister?
From distant memory, I’d estimate approx 750 grammes
thanks james if this is on my 2022 gt its coming off, im all for removing crap off the bike, thanks, rich
Do it…. It’s a nightmare waiting to happen!
so i got a little kit from Spain, removed the canster, removed the purge valve but the plug they supplied to replace the purge valve doesnt fit, do you think i can replace the purge valve, plug the hose from the tank and let the vslve sit there doing nothing so to speak, thanks, rich
James... it is extremely difficult to hear what you are saying mate ...
I’ll speak closer to my iPad next time! Just learning, so thanks for your feedback. I think other vids I’ve done are louder now though
You mention a 21-quid *kit* at the end of the video. What parts can there be in a kit for removed evap parts?
Solo ocurre en el arranque de la moto? La mía comenzó a regular a 1000rpm con 3900km. En caliente en frío en todo momento siempre regula a 1000rpm. Ese mismo problema tenía usted?
Yes. Tickover was imprecise and the e gone stalled regularly
@@internetpolificationgracias!
Just done this today thanks to your sprocket cover tip. Also did the air injection delete. On another note I've purchased some switch gear to do that swap.
Excellent! Yes, that sprocket cover removal helps a lot, eh? 😀 If you’ve bought the FJ1200 left switchgear, you’ll find it’s an easy fit using the OEM wiring from the OEM switch.l..and it means the OEM connector block is still used which makes life much easier. If you have any issues with the throttle side, just post here and I’ll give you my phone number. I did just post a lengthy response about the right side switch etc to a comment on one of my other videos……it’s the one that is partly titled with “Interceptor worship” …I’ll find the link and post it here in a minute. I detail what’s involved with the right side. It’s slightly trickier but really not hard
Here’s what I put to the person who asked re the switchgear in the other video……
No, the OEM throttle tube just won’t fit. I did try that first on the replacement right hand assembly but it’s all about the diameter of the end of the tube (the inner side which has the throttle cable nipples in it)…the OEM tube just won’t go into the CM400 switch assembly. So I used the entire switch/tube. There is some slight modification needed to the way the cables connect into the switch body. The OEM return cable (which closes off the throttle when the twistgrip is released) has a threaded nut on the outer sleeve which screws into the OEM switch casing and the pull cable (which operates the throttle when you twist it to accelerate) just has a round shoulder on the outer sheath and slots into the body of the OEM switch and is held in by a small clamp which screws into the switch casing.
With me so far? The threaded nut on the OEM return cable is too big to screw into the threaded hole on the CM400 switch casing, so it needs to be just left in place on the cable and ignored. But it’s now necessary to hold the cable into the new switch casing so I used the one that came with the CM400 throttle assembly that I bought…it came with (useless) cables still attached. I cut this cable and removed the nut which was obviously the correct size to fit into the threaded hole on the switch casing. Then it’s a case of getting the nut onto the OEM inner cable……of course the nipple stops it sliding on…..so I put the nut into a vice and cut a slot into it with a fine grinder disc……..it doesn’t weaken it and the slot allowed the nut to go onto the inner cable, screw into the switch casing and thereby hold the outer cable into the casing. With me thus far? So that’s the return cable sorted out.
The pull cable has the metal shoulder on the outer casing and slots into the replacement switch casing just like on the original switch casing. But…..there’s no threaded hole to attach the small clamp to which holds the cable in place on the original. So……I drilled a hole in the replacement casing, tapped a thread into it and this then took a small Allen bolt which holds the clamp in place in the switch casing and the forked end of the clamp holds the outer cable sheath in place in the casing.
The above sounds complicated but it actually isn’t! The left switchgear is dead easy however.
If you decide to change the switchgear, I’ll give you my email address/phone number and run it all by you.
Personally, I love this mod. The indicator switch is incomparably better and I no longer get complete ignition failure caused by the awful OEM engine kill switch!
@@internetpolification yeah I read that yesterday, it was myself who asked you. Just watching your wheel seal video, that seems a good shout to pre empt the issues it will cause.
where did you get the ais delete kit?
Hi James how does the tank breathe, the small pipe is only a drain from the neck, if you blank the tank pipe with the bolt there is no way it can breathe, I fitted the kit but opening the tank filler you can hear air rush in. Ps anyone ordering one quote the year, mine came with the wrong plug, so fitted purge valve blanked of,f plus do not short out this is a resistor plug. I read the other thread of similar conclusions, maybe your not experiencing hissing is the fact your cap is not sealing, solenoids arnt a switch so don’t short out, the ecu needs to see 25 ohm resistance.
As a test, I wonder what would happen if I were to just disconnect the pipes from the canister and allow them to breath free and leave everything in place for now?
The larger diameter pipe which is on the right side of the fuel tank needs to be blocked with an 8mm bolt though. The purge valve would still operate though and allow the inlet manifolds to suck air in, as opposed to sucking the vapour content of the charcoal cartridge. I suspect that your idea wouldn’t work because of that. You should block the two inlet manifold stubs, block the right side the fuel tank pipe which goes to the canister (using an 8mm bolt) and leave the purge valve electrically connected but with the pipes disconnected. This would effectively disconnect the charcoal canister and remove the need for the delete kit (because that connects to the wires that go to the purge valve). This means the ECU still recognises that the purge valve is connected (so no error message) but, because the inlet manifold stubs are blocked, the purge valve doesn’t actually DO anything apart from open on command from the ECU and say it’s there. That would work.
Question…what are you trying to test?
In answer to my own question……you want to test that nothing will go wrong, right? All I can say is that after constant rough starting and running and stalling, by doing exactly what I detailed in the video, every single problem disappeared immediately. If you want to have it both ways (and don’t mind spending £20)…….buy the delete kit and install it as per my video. And…like me……keep everything you remove (it’s easily reinstalled)…..then run the bike and revel in the instant starting hot or cold, no stalling, no sudden engine stops after a cold or hot start and feeling like the bike has just had a new engine. Then throw the entire Evap kit into the nearest dustbin. It would be a good idea to remove the cartridge…easily done and leaving everything else in place and just see if it drips petrol like mine (and others) did
@@internetpolification Thanks so very much for the comprehensive explanation James. I just read back my question and sorry it wasn't better worded (but thankfully it looks like you managed to get the gist). But to clarify, what I was aiming to do was test the idea of a EVAP "delete" without actually physically removing it. Initially, the aim being to conclusively prove to myself that it was the EVAP that was causing the warm start issues on my particular Interceptor and that excluding it does not adversely effect anything else. It is looking very likely that it is the cause and it is fine to remove it based on your research, but I wanted to do a simple exclusion test. And if that test works, then there's probably little need to actually physically remove it. Leaving the valve in place eliminates the need for an electrical bypass and leaving the canister keeps the components behind it protected from road muck (plus if, in the unlikely event that in the fullness of time some other issue caused by it's removal presents itself, it easy to reverse). That was the way my tiny mind reasoned with the problem, I hope it makes sense, I think you second guessed it anyway and your explanations are very helpful. The big takeaway for me is that you think that sucking in clean air into the inlet manifolds (rather than vapour from the canister) will cause a problem? Can you go a little more into what sort of problem that would cause please? It wouldn't be difficult to block them (presumably just pull the pipe off the end of the valve and block it with a bolt), so it's not a big deal, and as you suggest also block the large pipe from the tank. Thanks again and keep up the great work with your video's, they are so helpful!
what triggers the purge valve to open.?. If it opens periodically and not by some pressure sensor of the vapor build-up. You would think that not removing but just putting a block in the pipe from the tank and leaving everything as it is including the tank pipe, would be ok. The purge valve can open and shut or not without any effect on the bike .
@@michaeltowler2632 yes, I agree. The delete kit isn’t that necessary if one does it that way. It occurred to me after buying the kit and removing the Evap system. I suppose the delete kit means a cleaner removal though and removes the risk of purge valve malfunction in the future
Thank you for the explanations.
The anti-pollution system is really useless.
One question, the ECU will continue to work without the purge valve since you installed a fake plug, correct?
Could you please provide the link to this fake plug that you installed in place of the purge valve?
Yes the ECU functions. However, what you can do is disconnect all the pipes to the purge valve but leave it in place and electrically connected. You can then use a piece of the redundant pipework to join the two stubs on the inlet manifolds together. Thus cheaper than buying the ‘delete kit’ which is only two rubber bungs and a 10kohm resistor. So, I would simply leave the purge valve in place!
What year Interceptor is that? Euro4 or Euro5 ?
It’s a 2019. Euro 4
@@internetpolification Cool, thanks!
Next, Get Rid Of that crank case breather, that's contaminating your air filter. Put the open air breather filter in the crank case. looks better to.
Do you have a link to a suitable one please?
That is not a nice idea. Don't be a fool like danthetubeman
@@precisionbay6899 I agree. I looked into it and don’t think it’s a good idea actually. My air filter isn’t contaminated at all, in fact
Owners manual says fill up to bottom of filler neck I'd stay a couple mm lower than that though.
I'll have to try & find one that posts to NZ looks like it weighs half a kg.
Please could you advise of a retailer who could sell me a kit to deal with the electronic side of this? (The plug kit to replace the EVAP valve.) There don't seem to be any companies advertising this sort of kit in the UK.
I bought mine from eBay but I see that there aren’t any on eBay U.K. at present. There are some in Italy but they look very expensive. However….here’s a solution…. You can remove the Evap cartridge and disconnect the pipes to the purge valve as per the video, blocking off the larger pipe with an 8mm bolt (again, as per the video) BUT leave the purge valve itself in place, still connected to the wiring harness. Then block off the two inlet manifold stubs with something suitable eg a small piece of the original pipe, blocked off and put on each stub or, in the case of one subscriber to my little channel, join the two stubs up with a longer piece of the original pipe. Effectively this bypasses the purge valve but the ECU still operates the purge valve but it doesn’t know it’s not actually accomplishing anything. The subscriber this said it works fine…..
Hey. Hoping for help. Cannot trust my dealer. They changed a ruptured (!!!) tank. I suspected external breather/other blockage as there was massive pressure that caused a pinhole seam split. Cap nearly blew of in my hand. So I’m home and guess what, still massive pressure of left sitting in sun 30min. Do you think evap could be culprit?
Quite possibly! I’d remove the Evap system anyway…..
@@internetpolification thanks, on the list!
Quite probably!
@@internetpolification for info (if ever happens to others, highly improbable), was completely kinked tank breather hose, jammed tight by battery - from factory apparently. All good now. Will still delete evap one day!
That’s good that you found the problem!!
Is this the case for the 2019 models? I'm planning to buy one this week
oh dear, I regularly fill my tank to the brim on the center stand, mine will definitely be soaked with fuel
That’s almost guaranteed! If you have any problems starting the engine eg repeated presses of the starter button, starting and then stopping, rough running, stalling etc then it will be the saturated Evap cartridge. My bike was terrible for all of that when I first got it and I was going to sell it! It went in for the first three weeks I had the bike until I had a think about it and read the service manual and thought about the evap system.
One thing…you don't need a ‘delete kit’. Do as I did in the video but leave the purge valve in place and electrically connected but with all the pipes eliminated as per the video. Then you can either block off the stub on each inlet manifold with a rubber cap OR just join them together with a piece of the redundant pipe from the Evap. The ECU still communicates with the purge valve and opens it (on every start, I believe) but it doesn’t do anything in terms of the now-removed cartridge. The ‘delete kit’ is two rubber caps and a resistor in a plug that fits into the block connector that goes on the purge valve, a bit of a ripoff at £30 or so. The purge valve is a simple solenoid switch…nothing fancy. So you can leave it plugged in and let it open and close at the will of the ECU (which remains happy and fooled) and block the stubs off or just join them together. I wish I’d thought it earlier as I paid £30 for very little! Learning curve….lol
Pa. Once you’ve removed the cartridge and piping, get a hacksaw on the cartridge and empty out the (saturated) charcoal. I put mine into a metal bowl and set fire to it…..it burned for 15 minutes like mini-barbecue!
A dumb question - why delete it in the first place
Did you watch the video? It’s all explained in there in detail but, put simply, the Evap system often causes bad cold starting, even worse hot starting, lumpy tickover and even stalling.
@@internetpolification I must admit I had the sound down low so I wouldn’t wake anyone in the house lol 😂 I will listen to it properly now 👍
@@nickbasiliou5744 such courtesy is admirable. Honestly though, removing the Evap system has transformed my bike which is only 18 months old and done 5,000 miles. It got to be a right pain with difficult starting etc. now it’s completely and utterly cured
@@internetpolification hay that's good news. we won't those bikes for easy starting and reliability.
@@DANTHETUBEMAN mine was a swine to start cold, just as bad hot, stalling, engine starting up and stopping immediately, necessitating several ‘starts’. I removed the Evap system and……all….all….every singleon…..all of the problems disappeared immediately…never to return….
Hi there, I've recently done this delete too. Have you had engine management issues. Mine has flashed up twice with purge system open after opening the petrol cap and refueling. I'm noticing that when the fuel is low, I'm getting a rush of air into the tank now. This wasn't happening with the Evap system in place.
No, no issues with the management light so far for me. I have a code reader just in case. A rush of air into the tank would suggest that the tank is not breathing, so the fuel pump is pumping and creating a partial vacuum in the tank which is released when the fuel cap is removed. Are you sure you blocked the correct pipe with the bolt? There are two pipes under the tank which lead down to the bottom of the bike. One has to be left unblocked and I suspect that’s the one that lets the tank breathe. Have you tried removing the bolt completely and seeing what happens
Just thinking….I wonder what her effect of connecting up the purge valve into the wiring harness would be? ie replacing the delete kit plug-in and putting the purge valve back but unconnected to pipes, cartridge etc.? The valve doesn’t look hi-tech to me and seems to be a simple on/off gadget which allows the actual ‘purge’ to be achieved by the inlet manifold suction. So, if your ecu has an issue with the delete plug-in, maybe connecting up the purge valve would keep the ecu happy?
That is, of course, after you check re the pipes, as in my previous reply.
The two pipes (let's say left and right if sitting on the bike) are different gauges. The larger one on the right hand side, I have blocked as the other is too small for the bolt.
@@EvenIris yes, that’s correct then. I just checked on my bike. Yes, you’re correct re the bolt size and it not fitting in the other pipe. I lay next to mine just now and sucked on the thinner gauge pipe and it’s not blocked and tastes vaguely of petrol vapour. That pipe connects on the left side of the rear of the tank. If you undo the two retaining bolts for the tank, it will lift enough to see the pipe and where it goes into the tank. Is your thinner gauge pipe clear and not blocked?
@@EvenIris looking at the manual, the thinner diameter pipe which connects to the LEFT side of the fuel tank (viewed as if sitting on the bike) is called the “drain hose connector”and the larger diameter pipe on the RIGHT (the one with the bolt in) is called the “Evap connection hose”. So you’ve blocked off the correct pipe, of course. The drain hose connects to the left stub and whatever it connects to is inside the fuel tank. My guess is that it is some sort of breather. Is yours blocked?
I ordered one of those kits yesterday. Hopefully it's not too much of a faff to fit, I've had a look at your detailed instructions.
I wonder if my canister is full of fuel.
Ride safe
I don’t think you’ll regret doing it. Just remember to remove the sprocket cover and side panel. If you look for the purge valve (with a torch..it’s dark in there) you’ll see that clip first, probably. If you grab that clip and pull towards you, the purge valve will come off the little bracket that it clips on to, and towards you…..there’s plenty of wire on the wiring harness to allow this and also on the rubber pipes. This will enable you to grab the purge valve. The trickiest bit I found was getting the electrical connector out of the purge valve! It has a weird clip thing and another push tab and a rubber seal which grips tightly. I finally got a small screwdriver into the clip and broke it all off…it’s part of the purge valve and not the wiring harness block connector. Then it was a case of pulling the plug out of the purge valve against the yellow seal trying to keep it in there. Just persevere and it will come out. Pull the wiring harness block connector toward you and attach the bypass plug in your kit and I then cable-tied it to keep it accessible under the left side panel. I tied it to the wiring harness there. After that, it’s just a case of removing the charcoal cartridge from under the bike…..make sure you mark the ‘TANK’ pipe ie the pipe that goes to the middle tube on the canister that says ‘tank’…that’s the one that you block with the Allen bolt. The other one stays open and unblocked. The charcoal cartridge has a breather which goes up near the battery ….just remove it. And all the other pipes which come down from the manifold stubs, round the back of the cylinder head and down through clips in the frame on the right hand side of the bike. Just remove them all. Then block the stubs on the inlet manifold with the caps in your kit. The LEFT side manifold has an extra stub on the inside of the one you need to block. Just ignore that. It’s the outer of the two on the left side…the one which had the tube attached, same as on the right hand side.
I appreciate doing this job every time I get on my bike (several times today) and start the engine first time every time instead of what was going on before.
Any problems, post here. And do let everyone know if you have petrol in the canister and post about the difference! 😀
@@internetpolification I've removed all the pipes and the canister, was a bit more of a faff than I expected but the bikes all ready for when the kit arrives. Your instructions are spot on, thanks for sharing that. The charcoal canister is full of fuel, just like yours, doesn't rattle either. I'll let you know how the bike preforms once I've given it a good test.
Ride safe.
@@paulstoker7650 wow..that just goes to show, doesn’t it? Full of fuel just like mine and I bet you’re not aware of having ‘overfilled’ the tank? So easily done, it seems, and then problems after that.
Yes, it’s a bit of a faff getting that purge valve electrical connector out, did you find? I thought the rest was easy enough…just removing the pipes.
Make sure you plug the delete electrical plug in well and then cable tie it to the wiring harness that’s visible under the left side panel. Nice and dry in there, I reckon.
Yes, please do post here the results after test starting and riding……
@@internetpolification The delete kit will hopefully arrive today, I'll let you know how I get on after the test. One thing I did notice is that there's a fair bit of electrical wiring at the back of the engine, the charcoal canister is doing a good job of stopping all the road dirt, water and salt from being flung onto the back of the engine and electrical connections.
Rather than fabricate a plate to extend the mudguard down, to cover the gap. I've re fitted the disconnected charcoal canister just to protect the back of the engine and electrical wiring.
Ride safe and thanks for the advice.
@@paulstoker7650 yes I was of the same opinion that the canister was doing a good job protecting the solenoid and rectumfrier. EVAP delete completed but canister put back in situ - it weighs sod all anyway. I might even cut it in half at some stage ..
Hi mine is a 2021 Euro 5 will the kit plug work with mine?
Hi. Yes, it will. It’s a slightly different kit from the one in the link I posted but the same eBay seller has the correct one for the later bikes. The difference is that the block terminal on your wiring harness, that fits into the purge valve, is a different shape. If you contact the seller in the link I posted and give him the year of your bike, he will send you the right one. I noticed he had two kits and checked before I bought mine. I’ve literally just got in off my bike and am still so happy with immediate starting, first time every time!
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265610600890?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=3vNi2KEtS0K&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=aoSTS-GYQ3W&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
@@internetpolification thankyou james
The link goes to ebay but no further.
Similar to a prostatectomy.Maybe I'll just buy a T100.
Ha ha! There’s a lot going for the Interceptor though. And they cost a lot less than the Triumphs
I have to disagree, I think it's far less "pollution" then you stated. lol 🤣😆
Love it!
Bikes are significantly less polluting than cars, so enjoy guilt free! The purge valve system seems absurd and adds weight which leads to increased fuel consumption and more pollution. So removal probably makes sense.
It certainly made me NOT sell my bike! Honestly, it was so bad, I thought I’d have to get rid of it. Removed the Evap and all starting problems disappeared immediately