Yeah, I tried the no-lead one. In making motorcycle clutch cable ends, I just could not get the solder to melt around the cable end very well and, well, the result consistently looked raggedy. Gonna try the tin-lead-silver you recommend.
Lead free solder works perfectly fine, but as you stated, the soldering iron tips burn out incredibly fast. I don't even think it's temperature related because I use the same max temperature for every kind of solder. There's something in the solder itself that destroys the tip.
Im a beginner, which solder would you recommend ? Im mainly practicing repairs on electronics and THT soldering. Should i buy the one this guy recommends? (Silver one) Don’t mind my name lol.
@@paipaiakapapi3137 63/37 or 60/40 lead solder are the easiest to work with. Extremely low melting point. Even the shittiest dollar store soldering iron can melt it.
@@paipaiakapapi3137i suppose you're masters at electronics now, after 2 years. I'm na beginner, can you share to me how should i start with? thank you
I'm with you the old lead solder is always the best. Even when i started its the only that allows for professional work really. Everything else just balls up and rolls and you have get drop techniques to even use it. But the led as long as your iron is hot enough allows for easy application and rarely do you have to redo a joint.
John Nelson you would think so but you especialy want electrical solder. The no lead solder I got worked partially and then didn’t work on some things recently at least. Probably because silver leaches and makes joints brittle. Their is other solder like for plumbing and such.for ease you would probaly want a resin core solder, but ones that have acid flux that’s for plumbing do not use it for electrical.if you use a lead one 60/40 or 60/37 or non lead prolly 96.5/3/0.5. I’d say only use solder wire so u don’t accidentally buy plumbing solder.ill leave a couple links for u to see as a reply to this.
@John Nelson Lead- www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KRAB0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0002KRAB0&linkCode=as2&tag=buildelectcir-20 Non led- www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VPRYX0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000VPRYX0&linkCode=as2&tag=buildelectcir-20 study these two and as long as your solder is similar to one of them you'll be alright. 60/40 led i know works good with and without flux. The other non led based I've have only had issues with, and is hard to work with unless you have a high temp rod. and 4 out of the last 4 things i fixed with it didn't work or didn't work right. Of course they were headset circuit boards so their could be issues with other parts but it didn't appear that way. It is interesting to note about my being statement about it being a money thing as solder with silver tends to leech and makes the joints brittle over time, so i seem to be on the right track their so i'll have to history research. Obviously though the cheaper the solder is most likely the worst the metals are so keep that in mind as impurity's can cause issues.
Ok I know this is an old video but I have some gripes. Tin/lead solder can be eutectic or non eutectic. 63/37 vs 60/40 for instance. The lead free stuff is harder to work with, slower to wet that is, but is usually SnCu or SnCuAg. So nothing "as bad as lead" in it. Using lead free solder won't ruin your tips as long as you separate your tips between lead and non lead because it's the mixing of the two that messes things up. Personally I like to work with 63/37 rosin core but these days I have to order it because finding lead alloy solders in consumer stores has gotten harder and harder.
Too bad noone answered. Not sure myself. Probably not going to be using lead in a water system and temperatures of copper pipe differ from copper wire so heat could be an issue.
Lead tin: most generic applications and medium to high skill Silver mixture solder: great for beginners and harder joints for heavier duty connections or for intense physical strain Got it
Are you a troll?? That is pronouncing it correctly in American English. We do pronounce the L, it's why it's not "soder" like "soder pop" would be pronounced. We say "SAHTER" which is what the L does to the sound of the O
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i like this kind of videos that is informative and short compared to others who keeps saying nonsense just to make their content longer
The last guy I was talking about hot gluing at the end, and kept on saying this stuff without mentioning brands and now I feel like I wasted my time
Great! Short and to the point. You gave us the what AND the why, thanks
That was fast a clear. Going straight to the point. Thanks
Yeah, I tried the no-lead one. In making motorcycle clutch cable ends, I just could not get the solder to melt around the cable end very well and, well, the result consistently looked raggedy. Gonna try the tin-lead-silver you recommend.
Simple, concise, informative.
Lead free solder works perfectly fine, but as you stated, the soldering iron tips burn out incredibly fast. I don't even think it's temperature related because I use the same max temperature for every kind of solder. There's something in the solder itself that destroys the tip.
Im a beginner, which solder would you recommend ? Im mainly practicing repairs on electronics and THT soldering. Should i buy the one this guy recommends? (Silver one)
Don’t mind my name lol.
@@paipaiakapapi3137 63/37 or 60/40 lead solder are the easiest to work with. Extremely low melting point. Even the shittiest dollar store soldering iron can melt it.
@@shawn576 im also thinking about buying solder wix and a flux pen... any advice?
@@paipaiakapapi3137 Some day you might have to change your name to ClapYap. ;-)
@@paipaiakapapi3137i suppose you're masters at electronics now, after 2 years. I'm na beginner, can you share to me how should i start with? thank you
Hit to the points !!! Nice and short also informative!!! CHEERS
You are awesome. Very likable. Thank you for this video.
it's about three years after you posted this, in a different timezone, how did you know i'm watching in the afternoon.
Great video. A lot of good information.
I'm just getting into soldering, so this was very helpful. Thanks for posting. I'm going to thumbs up and subscribe to support your channel!
same here. busy looking what material and such I need.
I'm with you the old lead solder is always the best. Even when i started its the only that allows for professional work really. Everything else just balls up and rolls and you have get drop techniques to even use it. But the led as long as your iron is hot enough allows for easy application and rarely do you have to redo a joint.
John Nelson you would think so but you especialy want electrical solder. The no lead solder I got worked partially and then didn’t work on some things recently at least. Probably because silver leaches and makes joints brittle. Their is other solder like for plumbing and such.for ease you would probaly want a resin core solder, but ones that have acid flux that’s for plumbing do not use it for electrical.if you use a lead one 60/40 or 60/37 or non lead prolly 96.5/3/0.5. I’d say only use solder wire so u don’t accidentally buy plumbing solder.ill leave a couple links for u to see as a reply to this.
@John Nelson Lead- www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002KRAB0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0002KRAB0&linkCode=as2&tag=buildelectcir-20
Non led- www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VPRYX0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000VPRYX0&linkCode=as2&tag=buildelectcir-20
study these two and as long as your solder is similar to one of them you'll be alright. 60/40 led i know works good with and without flux. The other non led based I've have only had issues with, and is hard to work with unless you have a high temp rod. and 4 out of the last 4 things i fixed with it didn't work or didn't work right. Of course they were headset circuit boards so their could be issues with other parts but it didn't appear that way. It is interesting to note about my being statement about it being a money thing as solder with silver tends to leech and makes the joints brittle over time, so i seem to be on the right track their so i'll have to history research. Obviously though the cheaper the solder is most likely the worst the metals are so keep that in mind as impurity's can cause issues.
Ok I know this is an old video but I have some gripes.
Tin/lead solder can be eutectic or non eutectic. 63/37 vs 60/40 for instance.
The lead free stuff is harder to work with, slower to wet that is, but is usually SnCu or SnCuAg. So nothing "as bad as lead" in it. Using lead free solder won't ruin your tips as long as you separate your tips between lead and non lead because it's the mixing of the two that messes things up.
Personally I like to work with 63/37 rosin core but these days I have to order it because finding lead alloy solders in consumer stores has gotten harder and harder.
Great Advice. Thanks !
Would silver bearing solder be good to solder Fishing Stainless Steel wire to wire, or a split ring, to keep from streching open. ???
So u can use either two for both plumbing and electrical wires??
Too bad noone answered. Not sure myself. Probably not going to be using lead in a water system and temperatures of copper pipe differ from copper wire so heat could be an issue.
Can you solder electrical cables with it?
Awesome one uncle
🤔I'm a beginner... (🤷and have both them wires) 💯Thanx for telling the difference, & also about the unleaded/Rohs type😎👌🏁✨
Oatey 95/5 solder, is it good for soldering aircon piping?
Lead tin: most generic applications and medium to high skill
Silver mixture solder: great for beginners and harder joints for heavier duty connections or for intense physical strain
Got it
The best is 60/40 lead and tin solder, 2 core seems good. Who need 5 core rosin.
1 core has served for 100 years - 2 cores for really fat solder diameters I guess. 5 core was a marketing gimmick, and is not needed.
Thank u. Does type of solder could damage soldering iron tip?
Basically the more heat the more damage so just go with 60/40 solder buddy...you'll thank me in the long run also make sure it is Rosin cored!
What type of solder would I use to repair my kitchen sink wire rack? I believe it is a stainless steel rack.
Plumbing solder
galvanized solder is used for?
I wish you will show the label on the product you are showing
All the same. The only thing you need to look up next is the ratios of elements unless you're shipping things overseas.
Can you silver solder on aluminum
What's as equally bad as lead in the lead-free?? You say it does but it's so important that you don't name it?? BS!
But for what application? What if I wanted to solder copper pipes for a potable setup
This was very helpful. Thank you.
Good viewpoint. Thx
What about selinium, antimony and copper?
What about Rosin core vs Acid core ?
no acid core for electronics.
Thank you
Thank you for your info, helped me a lot.
Cool
thanks
Thnk u !!!!!!!!!!
Is the “L” in solder silent?
It depends upon where you are from. Google says "soder". I say "soder", "ya'll", and "ain't".
I pronounce it "Sod-Er" with a break. Dialect location: Georgia USA, 50 years Soldering Electronics.
@@joeteejoetee Er, you spelt it correctly? Ah, sod it.
I go with led free. I dont care what you say about led, I prefer not to die too prematurely
I'm sorry to say but the way things are going that's what we will have to get used to working with
Name on your solder.
Still waiting for Americans to learn how to pronounce solder correctly. Also wondering how they pronounce soldier.
Español
Why do Americans not pronounce the "L" in solder?
Because it's a different country? With different pronunciation? Why does it matter?
Because we are badass and don't have to :P
Saves time. We work hard and play hard. No time for unnecessary "L" pronunciation.
@@tunaonwhitenocrusts
🤣 Think how much time you could save if you drop the other five letters
Europeans are good at taking L’s, that’s why the pronounce the L in solder lol
Solder NOT SODDER FFS LEARN TO GET THE BASICS CORRECT 😡
Are you a troll?? That is pronouncing it correctly in American English. We do pronounce the L, it's why it's not "soder" like "soder pop" would be pronounced. We say "SAHTER" which is what the L does to the sound of the O
Europe can keep their dambed unleaded solder. Its hard to solder and easy to get cold solder joints lead free solder is SHIT