60/40 versus unleaded solder
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ธ.ค. 2015
- If you don't use the right solder when doing electrical or electronic work on your RC models or drones then you're unlikely to get satisfactory results. In this video I discuss why lead-based solder is generally preferred over lead-free solder and I also talk about the important factors associated with choosing the right stuff.
My soldering tutorial:
• Soldering basics for R... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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Thanks for this great post. I work in aviation and am a certified solder technician working on aircraft and aircraft test sets for over 30 years. Lead free solder has been banned from aviation equipment due to its discovery of unreliability after several deadly aviation accidents. The reason is it cracks under vibration and temperature changes over time. Lead free solder is also one of the major causes of modern electronics ending up in the landfills. It is also the major cause of automotive electronic failures particularly in those MPG/KPG, compass and trip overhead displays. In fact most of those displays can be repaired just by re-soldering them with lead solder. If you fly RC aircraft STAY AWAY from this stuff, as it cracks under vibration and temperature changes over time. If you have the capability I would open and check you radio equipment twice a year particularly at the start of summer and the start of winter after the over all temperature changes. Make any repairs with lead solder, 60/40 or the 67/37 Eutectic solder. Thanks again for the post. Best Wishes n Blessings Keith
What ever the drawbacks are I still prefer lead free over leaded because expectancy of our life and quality of our health matters more than that of the solder used in electronics.
@@ultrababa4723 If you wash your hands after soldering and don't do the obvious stupid stuff, there is no health risk.
@@ultrababa4723 I know this is an old post, but there is no risk unless you plan on licking your fingers after soldering or eating your devices.... lead absorbency through skin is not a thing, unless it is an organic lead compound, which it is not.
As a matter of fact, I ended up here looking for solder differences. Currently studying to be avionics technician, so I find this comment quite interesting.
Got my hands on soldering tools and wires to practice at home... and bought a crappy tin solder without knowing, "60/40"... but results were just like the crap solder in this video. I could NOT manage to prepare the wire tips, let alone solder things together: thing just slushes and goes solid when it touches the wire, and iiiffff you manage to solder it, its weak and quite crap.
@@kevinyamil2103 Hey Kevin if you're serious about learning to solder Pace World Wide the maker of professional soldering equipment has some nice videos on it here: th-cam.com/channels/T5e-XjqHPfA3_9wF3CgY1w.html
I also have some lengthy soldering videos on repairing bad or corroded circuit boards here: th-cam.com/play/PLVLXGvrQp0Os1DY1r_iUETKdLR2u-cAfY.html You'll have to skip through to the soldering videos you want to view. Best Wishes and Blessings in you learning. Keith Noneya
the only reason why i use lead free is because i like to lick my pcb and lead is bad for my health
fume extractor does the job
+Spoder Man , no it doesn't.
Martín Varela get a better fume extractor
Spoder Man You have no idea what you're talking about.
You don't breath trough your tongue.
Martín Varela no shit
Lead free is harder to work with but I made a personal decision to up my game, not for myself, but for everyone else who will have to live with the soldered fixtures I create which will eventually turn into waste.
This was one of the first things I found out when I started the hobby. My solder was terrible and I was blaming the iron. So I got a new iron and it was the same, so I blamed myself. Then I happened to try some solder that a well known UK Quadcopter shop was using and tadaaaa! Beautiful solder joints. This video will no doubt help many people. Don't forget the link to you old video mate. Have a good one.
+ThatHPI GUY that's exactly the same way I discovered that lead free solder is crap.
+ThatHPI GUY Same story here, matey. Hated soldering for a long time and thought I just didn't have the knack for it. It put me right off getting anything past breadboard prototype stage. Got myself some nice and thin 60/40 and realised I actually CAN solder quite well. Now I actively look for excuses to solder stuff!
+ThatHPI GUY
Spot on HPI, I was exactly same:)
+ThatHPI GUY Ill try this 60/40 solder asap. :-) Flying a 250 quad for a year now and with the build and repairs i was using the lead-free solder all the time.. Now i see the problem. hehehe Thanks bruce!
+starlino Yes... I measured some leads I made... less resistance with the silver based unleaded solder so better flight times using small wires and connectors to save weight.
Thanks Bruce, interesting. I've been soldering since 1964, and I now use lead-free, and I find that it's basically just a different technique to get a good joint. That 'tin spread' effect is a vaild point though. As to health issues, well you've been using leaded solder for decades so obviously it can't affect the brain as some have said. (Wait a minute though.......)
Taking soldering courses right now, and most of the time I'm just waiting for the teacher to get to the stuff I've already learned on youtube. We're using 97% tin solder in the courses, btw, as well as old style irons that take forever to recover after losing heat. Great combo.
I'm kinda new to this which is like the best to use to last me years?
I work for a company that builds military grade equipment and I will tell you that lead free is more brittle and that's why we still use leaded we mostly use .032 and solder paste for reflow oven and we always have great quality solder joints also I do want to point out that lead free requires higher Temps and are more difficult to solder
Dear Bruce. Thanks for informative vid. It explains why I always had stodgy solder and wouldn't flow!! I was on the point of buying a new soldering iron thinking it wasn't getting to the right temperature.
What is the best way to sean the tip of my soldering iron? Cheers.
FFS
After 2 years messing with my soldering iron I purchased new, I was convinced I suck at soldering
I now know why I am experiencing issues!
This video just saved me some grey hairs
Thank you mate
A friend forwarded me this video because i was having solderingen issues. Thanks for opening my eyes
Bruce, I am really excited to see your tutorial on Ham radio license. When do you think it will be put out on video?
+Scott Mccurley I've been collecting a whole lot of material to create this series -- and I'm interviewing a couple of "old-school" ham radio operators as well so it'll be sometime in the New Year.
Very nice video, it's about time I learn the real difference between the different types of solder. Thank you!
63/37 is eutectic. 60/40 is not quite.
and a better choice if you can get it.
Well, it seems to have its pros and cons. Eutectic is -more- less odds of a cold joint, 60/40 is better joints when they're done right.
Jasper Janssen ahh, thanks.
The one time I tried to get it, my supplier was out of stock so I have not tried it out myself.
@@JasonKaler you using lead free chinese solder use good one the chinese crap its a recicled mix of diferent materials recicled in illegal scrap yards in china thats why is so crapy coz is a mix of every thing the real solder leaf free cos like 30 euros for 200 grams try using the brand ELTO AND YOU SEE THE DIFERENCE
63 37 replaced 60 40 in the telephone market place. Moisture was a problem in phone electronics. I did not make the change just the engineering department did. The ECO changed the ratio of solder.
I really appreciate your educational videos. I always learn something useful even if I'm familiar with the topic.
I have built a handful of quads and am quite good at soldering now.. thankfully I have been using the correct solder. I use 2mm but after watching this vid I will be purchasing some thinner solder. Very useful information. Thanks Bruce.
I got the 63 37 leaded solder
Took a while of searching on amazon to get it
and it works really good. Super clean
Ideal temp for lead free soldering is 700F (371C) and no hotter. Also, do NOT use a wet sponge to 'clean' your iron tip. Only use the metal 'brillo' pad type of cleaner. The thermal shock of the wet sponge when combined with lead free solder will ruin your tip very quickly. Also, the sponge does not adequately clean the tip.
I wipe it on my cheep jeans one time I was in shorts an wiped on my leg I did say F%$^& B£$^ T£$^^ C^&$£%^ then B£$^$$ again almost 40 years of soldering I always grab the solder in my mouth pull it an solder hows much have I eaten
Hey Bruce, I like you're going to do a video on an inverter cable. I wanted to ask if you are going to do one on setting up a gps for a Naze32 board?
I use 99/1% tin/copper solder(atleast that's what it says on the spool), and it works fine with a normal non-copper tip, basically as well as leaded solder.
is it stil conductive?
@@caramel7149 yes?
For what??
Please God tell me you don't use that for electronics and HIFI??
@@ryanjofre not hifi, but electronics i guess
@@rallekralle11 Stop using that.
Get yourself some 63/37 Tin/lead Eutectic solder in whatever diameter you prefer .....Kester brand is the best.....made in USA and very affordable.
Donate that crap you have to a school that teaches kids how to solder.
You'll thank me.
well, it inspired me enough to run out and buy some. thanks for the heads up!
Great and informative video, already using 60/40 but the heat melting ratio was informative! :)
I need a soldering wire that’s for general purpose things to solder gutters battery terminals or just anything. I got a air compressor head that’s got a small crack on head want some solder what would ya recommend on amazon or eBay
Hi I need to solder my nitro exhaust but I'm frightened it will melt is there a hight temperature solder out there
Could you use the lead-free solder when preparing PCBs and baking them in the oven?
Also, question, I've noticed my soldering iron tip is being eaten away, but I'm pretty sure it doesn't have copper in the mix. I bought some solder from Hobbyking which works really well, but as I can't read chinese, I was wondering if they'd possibly use an acid flux? Would that explain the tip being eaten away?
It's the smoke from flux you have to worry about,it is toxic.A soldering iron can never get tin or lead hot enough to boil.when lead is boiled then it will give off toxic gases.I do prefer 60/40 over nonlead though
"i would rather save my model than save the planet" LOL nice one bruce! funny guy!
FPVREVIEWS probably because way are not able to save it anyway.
Lead free solder causes tin whiskers and the military will not use lead free solder on any of their electronics. I won't use lead free in production where I work.
would you pls give a tip to use solder wire ? what type of solder wire should use for any pcb board? and how much watt should be for iron solder to use? thanks
Hey there,
Can you please tell me the power rating of your soldering iron?
Thanks.
Bruce, I want the cutting/soldering mat like the one you're using here. Do you know where I can get one? Thanks!
Please help I run Rc cars and sometimes the bullet connectors can de solder with the 60/40 would I be better using the lead free with can take more heat thanks
Hi. I just found your videos. I think your antenna videos were the best I have seen. I am an extra class amatuer in the us. I have also been a tech for 45 years. Your explaination was fantastic. I agree with you. For years all we had was 60-40 for our work. All of a sudden we get that lead free crap came out. I bought one roll and trashed it. Keep up the great videos and Thanks W5DN.
Thanks for sharing this video & information. I haven’t soldered for years. But an renewing my interest in designing & prototype projects. I a few days ago I decided to order Maiyum 63-37 Tin-Lead Rosin core soldering wire Just to explore the eutecric aspects discussed in several soldering tutorials including your own. Hoping to learn something new.
What kind of solder is best to solder a copper wire to a thick (5mm) silver rod?
I've been using the cheap lead free solder you get from Harbor Freight for a while. It does take a little longer to melt and a little longer to solidify, but as long as you properly heat your surfaces the joints are quite strong. if i were doing more delicate work, I'd probably use thinner 60/40 solder.
I have been using 60/40 for a while with no problems. I went to get more and could only get at the time was 60/38/2% resin flux, with no mention of rosin. Would this be ok for soldering joints needed for modeling? I get a wee bit confused when it comes to something different. By the way I always look forward to your videos, you have been so helpful. Thank you.
is soldier conductive? i have always wrapped my leads together and then
soldier them however i have seen a person build a copter by putting
blobs of soldier on each end of a wire and then melting them together
and it appears to work consequently it appears that the wires don't have
to make contact,
Great lesson! Moving to college soon and hope I get a teacher like you. when my solder doesn't melt I always blame it on my soldering tip for not being hot enough. Them eventually my soldering iron tip gets messed up and doesnt allow solder to stick on it anymore! Can someone explain this please? From now on I've followed someones advice to always leave a bit of solder on the end of the tip when its not in use.
Thanks
so i used my soldering iron to melt some perfect holes in a plastic sheet fire insulating carbon parts. Anyway I cannot seem to clean the tip of residue and solder will not sick to it anymore. Do you have any tip cleaning tips? I've used Flux and then a wire brush. Not being cheap, i did but a new tip, but no sense in throwing out good parts of they can be cleaned.
If the tip is solid copper, you can file down to a clean suface, otherwise it's time to throw that tip out.
Excelent. Banggood ripped me of also. Not the exact the same solder as you got, but behaves just like it. Even though i ordered 60/40 or 63/37.. Couldnt figure out why it was crap. Thanks.
What about tin/silver solder though? how does that compare?
i just started working at a solder manufacturer...i love it!! today i ran the draw machine and was making .125 solder wire this stuff had tin copper silver and lead in it...I LEARNED TO SOLDER A SOLDER WIRE BACK TOGETHER lol ots not hard bit the thought never crossed my mind!!
Much love from Australia. You kiwis are our best mates in the world and if anyone wants a go at you, they’ll have to get through us first.
I use Pb free solder at work for some customers but other customers I use 1%Cu which is harder to use and needs a hotter iron too. Bring back 60/40, it works so well.
when are the rest of the UHF series coming up? I am very eager to watch it :D
Tin based is great if you have the right flux
What is that keyword you used in the video?
"Utiptic?" How do you spell that?
I was suffering trying to understand why my soldering iron stopped melting the solder, sometimes it would sometimes wouldn't. I had one more solder wire with me from different product. Applied the other one and it took flawlessly. So at least I know the issue was a low quality solder wire. Thanks for the video ,you confirmed my issue.
Bruce an excellent presentation, thank you
Can you mix solders? I always use unleaded on repairs of modern equipment, and leaded if starting from scratch or repairing old stuff.
+Laurence Cooper
Yeah, it's fine. But you should remove as much of the "different" solder as possible. If you can mix the solders (by melting the whole joint) it should be fine, too. But avoid joints where parts of it still are lead free and other parts leaded (for example solder stuck in a throughhole). Not talking from experience here, more pulling it out of my (scientific) ass ;) , but the different physical properties (foremost thermal expansion) could lead to cold joints in the future.
I have used them both when i use to do small electronic projects at college, it takes some time to get use to using lead free solder. Like every thing lead free will get better over time it might be as good as leaded solder in the near future.
Regarding the claim unleaded solder will not last as long as leaded solder I just found this in Navy files on solder: “The typical life of commercial electronic devices is three to seven years compared to decades for DoD systems,” said Lloyd Condra, Chairman of the Lead Free Electronics in Aerospace Project (LEAP). “In fact, we’re seeing device manufactures optimizing the design of microcircuits to wear out in that same timeframe.” (end of excerpt) Well looks like the claims of planned obsolescence are true and not just a few companies like Samsung getting caught.
Hey Bruce can you recommend a solder removal pump machine or gun that works? There seem to be a lot of them at a varying prices.
Check eevblog channel as Dave has a desoldering vid or two
Desolder wick is cheap and worth trying too
+adriancjones I use this thing and it's a beast - www.ebay.com.au/itm/Desoldering-Station-80W-Temperature-controlled-Vacuum-Suction-de-soldering-gun-/361322066052?hash=item5420793084
+Brendan Halliday. Thanks. Just what I was looking for.
I've been having a heck of a problem with a RTF DYS BG250. I'ts one of those quads with integrated esc's and wiring. I had to replace the bottom part of the frame and solder the wires from the motors to the built in esc's. All the motors spin when they are the lowest motor and spin at completely irregular rates. I have no idea if my awful soldering skills have shorted something or if its just the settings need re-calibrating. Either way next time I fork out for a quad I will stay away from the RTF models as they are as far from modular as possible.
+Vividcg In openpilot when finding the point where the motors start spinning none of the motors spin at all. very confused. I marked all the wires to make sure they're the right way around. any thoughts?
+Vividcg callibrate esc's
Thanks Bruce. That was really helpful 😃
@RCModelReview, I only buy 60/40 Lead bearing rosin solder. always great results. I accidently bought some Silver bearing rosin core solder . haven't used it yet. not sure I will. I know it takes a higher heat range to work with the Silver say 430F Melt temp and the good old Lead says 361F melt temp. I like to use as a cool temp as when working with thin circuit boards. some say the sliver is stronger bond. is that true?? Good Video.
umm if lead & tin eat away at copper then how come they are still used to solder copper wires ?
Thanks for the heads-up. I saw the Lead Free solder in store (Jaycar in Dunedin NZ) when I was buying my usual Duratech 60/40, aside from being way dearer I thought to myself "yeah, nah". The idea of "lead free" alone was enough to deter me.
I got some really good lead rosin core solder from Singapore 5 years ago and the same spool is still going strong.
Great tutorial always room to learn something new
Great bit of info... Thanks for another great video.
Thanks for this great and usefull video Bruce!
100% behind you on the solder. I have been in electronics for 40 years now and hate using lead free solder.
Bruce, is "dry" solder joint the same as a "cold" solder joint? Thanks for the video sir.
+mmerry2 on TH-cam Cold solder joints are what you get when your materials you're soldering together aren't heated properly when you apply solder. Hot solder doesn't stick to cold surfaces very well and it's common for those joints to come loose. With braided wire, the solder actually gets pulled into the gaps in the braiding when it achieves the correct temperature, that results in a very strong joint.
+Josh Grebe Thanks, but I understand what cold solder joints are. My question was is a dry solder joint the same as a cold solder joint? Bruce mentioned a "dry solder joint" at 3:31 and I have never heard that term.
+mmerry2 on TH-cam Yes it is the same. although some would say a dry joint is when you dont tin the pad , pin or wire before soldering. So it doesnt bond properly, and a cold joint is one that has moved/crystalised or was never hot enough to properly flow.
Also if you rework a poor joint and it doesnt look shiny a little dab of new solder will fix that. its just where the solder has oxidised as the flux has been used up or flowed away
I have a roll that is a similar size as the one you show from Banggood....and when I removed all the solder...I found that the hub was 10 mm thick.. giving the impression that there was a lot more on the roll.
What soldering iron u r using! ?
I've got acid reflux will that help?
I just found out I had been using lead free solder and ive had no troubles with it. Might switch to 60/40
great video, thanks so much for these. i've been using the hobbyking solder that says it's 63% tin, is it safe to assume that it is 37% lead?
Should i be wearing any protective wear to stop inhaling the solder fumes?
thanks mate, it's hard with a fan as this seems to cool the solder really fast sometimes
hey thanks mate, i really appreciate the advice! i'm gonna order one now haha.
i also have just had kids so this is probably necessary.
+Dictator In Perpetuity Note, there cannot be much metallic lead in the fumes because the temperature is way too low to boil, however:
www.sentryair.com/solder-fumes.htm
LEAD OXIDE
The following paragraph was extracted from OSHA's website (www.osha.gov)
"Lead is used in the soldering process in the form of lead/silver filler metals. When heated, lead oxide fumes are formed. Excessive exposure to lead oxide fumes can result in lead poisoning. Symptoms include loss of appetite, indigestion, nausea, vomiting, constipation, headache, abdominal cramps, nervousness, and insomnia. Lead is absorbed through the mucous membranes of the lung, stomach, or intestines and then enters the bloodstream".
The following is extracted directly from the warning label on a roll of 60/40 rosin core solder.
"WARNING: THIS PRODUCT CONTAINS LEAD AND MAY CONTAIN OTHER TOXIC METALS OR CHEMICALS. Ingestion or inhalation of fumes or particles released through processing could cause lead poisoning or cancer. Absorption of lead is known to cause birth defects and other reproductive harm and may result for example in damage to the blood and neurological systems. Use only with adequate ventilation. Use NIOSH approved respiratory protection when necessary. Wash thoroughly before eating, drinking or smoking. Not for use in portable water service systems. THIS PRODUCT ON FILE WITH ROCKY MOUNTAIN POISON CONTROL CENTER".
OSHA currently defines the exposure limit on "lead inorganic fumes and dusts" to be .05 mg/m³
SOURCE: US DOL/OSHA 5/23/2001.
+Dictator In Perpetuity The boiling point of lead is around 1750 C while soldering temp is around 360-400 C. At such low temperatures the quantity of lead vapour from soldering would be tiny. The smoke generated while soldering is from the burning of the rosin flux which is essentially tree sap. Some find the odour pleasant while others experience irritation. At a hobbyist usage level I see no imminent risk to using leaded flux cored solder that a simple hand wash and good ventilation would not remedy.
+FPV.Mike There has been talk about fumes so I will only mention the fingers. Wash your hands, I wash mine once,then put the scrub brush with a second round of soap. Lead can be absorbed through the skin... Touch the lead then touch your eyelid, nose or any sensitive skin and it transmits even more easily.
I was told a story about a person who worked in a lead-acid battery factory who's infant child became ill because the child was crawling on the carpet that he walked on after coming home from work...(after that point the factory created a clean room where you wore their shoes garb- etc and at the end of the day went home in your unexposed garb.
When I had lead poisoning from soldering batteries, it was found that lead, and other metals like tin had a more pronounced synergistic adverse affect than just one component. The more unwanted types of metals at a lower level can be as bad or worse than just one metal at a higher level.
Also, if you suspect toxicity do a hair test for metals. Many metals like lead will transfer from the blood to the bone and after time a blood test is not as accurate to find and accurate metal level in your body. -Richard-
Most experienced people who can actually solder or those that have taken some form of IPC-A-610 course would disagree with this video. That’s not to say leaded solder is bad. Its actually pretty good if you’re new to soldering. Its easier to use than ROHS solder. I always recommend new people to use leaded solder if they haven’t touched a soldering iron before.
thk u bruce, so mcuh usefull info in this video for the newbies in the rc hobby! Don't forget ot carefully wah your hands after touching the soldering wire and have a good ventilation in the room:)
Great video thanks for that I just want to solder for doing some joining photo-etch brass in my modelling hobby. wonderful good day!
I bought SN100C (lead free) solder a few days ago, I have heard great things about it but have not got the opportunity to test it.
I guess you can use the hippie solder for making some sculptures or something.
i use it when i need to hot air gun reflow. but yeah stick to the 60/40 for everything else.
+SlavjanA Tin is good stuff for bullet casting, too. Tin is added to the lead alloy, because is improves casting properties. Hippies don't cast bullets.
I only use lead free solder on copper water supply plumbing. Then I use Mapps gas to get enough heat.
Adding 1lb of 60/40 solder to 10lb of wheel weights makes a perfect bullet casting alloy. Just the correct amount of lead, tin and antimony.
Classic Bruce!!! Gotta love him!
Yes,,, u r right sir, I hv used ths Pb Solder & hv gone through a horrible struggling to join smethng. It is really bothering while on wrk.
what if you use a good Flux?
and I thought I knew all there was to soldering, thanks Bruce
Thanks for the Video Bruce! I solder for a living and we use mostly 60/40 lead solder, we have a small area where we have to use lead free, and everyone says tge same that lead free is horrible to work with, you need extremely hi quality hi temperature irons to do the job. Currently taking a recert course at work and tou guessed it they've changed to lead free for the practical🤦♀️ its bloody horrible for tiny little surface mounts I can tell you, nevermind the 100 pin components. It barely just copes with through pin and if you get a bridge that's damn near impossible to get rid of. Leaded solder all the way for me, we where gloves and have extraction units so it's safe for us. 🙂
You should put the whole roll into a pot and make a brick of solder. I have no idea what you could use it for (maybe a paperweight) but I think it would be cool to watch it all melt. Also, what exactly is flux and why does it make solder flow so well?
+rabinator33 Maybe add something on solder paste if you want to do a vid on it
+Lemon Gaming cleans the surface.prep for the solder to flow nicely on the wire
+rabinator33 Flux inhibits (and sometimes reverses) the oxidation of the solder. The oxide usually forms on the surface of molten solder and creates a kind of skin that encapsulates the liquid metal and stops it from flowing smoothly. Flux can also stop oxidation of the metals your actually soldering -- thus improving the alloying between the solder and the copper (or other metals) you're joining.
I've actually done this. it creates a nice brick. it's what I do with unleaded solder.
+leif churchill Same. I find it quite fun :P
Does anyone know what is the solder used in lipo batteries is? 60/40 doesn't stick to the metal, I ended up scavenging solder from a dud cell to make my last connection.
Oh my.
The first solder I ever bought was pasty
I just assumed my iron was not getting hot enuf and learnt to work with that.
Today I realised mine was the lead free type.
It was also very difficult to take off the board via a wick. 😱
I love his energy!!!!!
05:00 That kinda pissed me off, when you solder you need to heat up the base, don't expect to solder on a cold PCB ofc the soldering wire will get "pasty" or solidify if you don't give it the necessary temperature, as you can see from the vid. you/he get's the soldering iron away fast, the PCB is COLD and the hot liquid transfers the heat fast to the copper PCB. Use the right temperature, even if you don't have a high heat soldering iron hold it on the PCB to heat up then solder, like that you always will have a PERFECT soldering with any soldering wire.
Domino60 how do you know when your are damaging the board tho? what do you look for?
The Great Mechanized Ape, get the right tip size (so that it doesnt heat the board but it does heat the base/lead) and one way to know if the board is damaged is if it turns black or starts to smell!
J3tfuel thanks.
Lead isn't an eviromental issue, its a health issue. Lead is incredibly dangerous if consumed and it never leaves your body, so always wash your hands thoroughly directly after soldering to prevent any lead from transferring into your body.
+Marc Stollmeyer It's still an environmental issue though -- it affects every living organism that ingests it. This is why they've banned lead shot for duck shooting in many countries. Like most heavy metals, it can accumulate in the food chain but will most affect those at the top of the chain (us).
Not to be an ass, but if you do a quick google search you will find that lead solder is pretty darn safe (in terms of direct affects on human health). There is no lead in the smoke and you won't ingest any if you wash your hands. Also, don't eat it.
+Tank Buddy But the smoke from the solder doesn't contain lead but it's bad for your lungs.
+theXpto51 Thanks for pointing that out. Fumes from the flux are toxic, but the risk of inhalation can be mitigated with ventilation pretty easily.
+Marc Stollmeyer I grew up washing my hands in leaded gas, breathing car fumes from leaded gas, and using leaded paint, etc like a lot of other people did. But I never tested positive for too much lead so I think filling up the land fills with lead solder electronics that gets into the water is the main issue and that is a real concern to prevent. But lets face it... we are experimental and Nature is not done with us and it will take hundreds of years to really see the damage/changes we have caused to our own biology.
Biggest proplem I found with leadfree solder was that if you use the same tip as non leadfree, it will add bit of lead to the soldering mixture which causes exactly what you show in the video (you need to have atleast 25% or 0.00000% lead to make good solder). I think one big Japanese electronics company had issues with the tin whiskers when they changed to leadfree and didn't change their manufacturing equipment, because of the small lead contamination.
There are good leadfree solders available (SnAgCu), but need to find one that you like to use. Also since melting temperature is much higher, which makes the soldering much harder.
BiSn (57%,43%) has pretty low melting temperature at 140C and makes it easier to use, while having only 1 degree of difference in liquid and solid. But it has problems with the strength.
Btw, did you even change the temperature between the solders?
Before all the hate, I use leaded solder for my own projects, but at work we pretty much need to use leadfree and I'm not having issues with it.
Hey bruce thanks for this post. Ive tried using lead free just for that reason to be safer, but it sucks.
Recently bought some Wonder Solder Signature, which is has silver in it, before I used Cardas, as I always found solder with silver to be better to use, also it might be more expensive, however a roll last years!
I found silver solder at radio shack & it's marked for electronics but I don't find it as easy to work with as 60/40. Anyone else tried it?
I find the 63/37 stuff is definitely worthwhile. Flows better, looks better, etc, as you've said. The stuff I use is made by Yulong DingDong Industries.
That Jaycar stuff is OK, but not brilliant. I think the flux is a bit ordinary. Get yourself a few rolls of a good 63/37 and you will never look back. Kester is apparently the pick of the litter.
Kester Eutectic 63/37 is the best unless you need some silver for HIFI then Cards audio and others are tops
DingDong......lmao.
Have you tried adding a bit of flux? Might help the lead free solder.
I believe he was using flux core lead-free (s**t) solder, besides adding flux does not address the issue which is metallurgical! Lead-free solder SUCKS!
It would help certainly even if your using rosin cored solder anyways. You don't avoid using liquid rosin flux just cause your wire has rosin flux in it. Despite what this video says lead free with a decent liquid flux used on the larger joints will yield perfectly satisfactory results that will be fine for any hobbyist. Yes leaded 60/40 or 63/37 melts easier but people who say less free is useless either don't know how to solder very well, are using cheap crap solder wire, or don't account for the higher melting point. If you can get leaded and it's for an application your kids won't be playing with have at it. But if your working on a small repair and you just wanna grab some solder locally an all they have is less free that's certainly usable. Just remember to use an extra 100 degrees or so, flux larger joints or joints that you don't want getting to hot ( the flux will reduce the amount of time it takes to solder the joint by cleaning the surfaces and heating the solder more consistently so you can avoid damaging small components not to mention that extra flux will result in better solder flow in your joint) and if you do those things you'll be fine.
@@ronplucksstrings7112 Yes that's exactly what adding flux does it address the efficiency of melting and adhesion of your joint. Extra flux is certainly meant to be used with rosin core smh. Do you think that just cause it's rosin core you don't have to use flux with it on some joints Lol? Smh, you obviously have no clue what your talking about and weren't qualified to answer the question. Which wasn't a stupid question at all. Sadly you decided to give a really stupid answer even though the OP has a better understanding than you do of how soldering works.
Extra heat will help but extra Flux wont. Maybe there is a brand of lead free solder is better than other brands but regardless of what brand won't stop the tin whiskers that unleaded solder causes.
Save the earth by recycling electronics, you should not need to buy a power adapter for each new electronics you buy. Standardization is best for all electronics manufactured. Keyboards and mice should work on all computers that have usb connections.
Also memory cards should also be transferable from one computer to another. Just these two features would save money and reduce waste.
i am sure the china solder you hace is not lead free it is propabaly a lot more lead then tin behaves simular to lead free have you tested the lead content?
Man after my own heart here! I do love 60/40 solder!
Anyone have a Amazon link? Or keywords?
Ditto here mate. I started off with Maplin's unleaded and it was c**p!
Got myself a nice reel of 60/40 0.5 mm now (I only do small stuff) and everything's rosy.
The thing that concerns me most about working with lead solder is actually DE-soldering, especially with a pump. Those tiny, barely visible bits of removed solder get everywhere; all over my desk, under my fingernails, on the floor, on my arms, etc. I'm sure I even had lead dust in my bed at times. Over long period time that can be ingested and could build up to become harmful. As someone who does almost as much desoldering as soldering and has cats, I'm moving on to lead free. I'll still use 60/40 for some things but won't whenever I can avoid it.
Totally agree Bruce!
Honestly... Since lead is heavy, I bought lead free - which was way cheaper per volume. It was not labled, so I did not even know, if it had rosin core - luckyly it has! It is 0.5mm solder. It is great for SMD and ultra fine pitch through hole. (The distance between to 1.27mm pads can be almost 0, if the pads are large!) I dissolved cheap rosin from ebay for 4€ 100 grams (!) in a few ml of ethanol. It is like runny honey, but perfectly clear. I preflux on ANY soldering. The solder flows amazingly. It is very easy to work with and the spool is not close to get used up. I am on the cheap site all the time - skill and flux fixes all the problems! Oh, and good soldering tip.
Don't forget to always brush of any remaining flux, or in high humidity environment your PCB will slowly rot away over time. (Metal corosion)
haha. "I'd rather save the model than save the planet" one of my favorite lines i've heard you say....and i've heard a bunch of funny ones. the other was about using the hot air from the mother in law :D
Thank you for this excellent video and GREAT info! I wish I would have had more training in this area while I was getting my High Tech Automation Robotics college degree. Luckily, I learned it extremely fast in practice!
Just be careful you don't inhale the LEAD fumes, because it will literally drive you insane!!! Also, wash your hands, and keep the kids away from.
The fumes don't contain any lead. Lead does not vaporize at such low temperatures. The fumes are from the flux and the flux in lead free solder is actually even more toxic than the flux from leaded solder.
I knew it! I thought my tip was bad or my iron was not hot enough. Turns out I got lead-free solder wire as I used to buy it per meter from a repair shop. Terribly brittle and flaky.
"but it's cr4p"
Made my laugh. Love it brother