Great video thanks! But reading through the manual, I don't see the water pump or impeller replacement in the 100hr service? Did you include that just to let us know what to do on the 300hr service? I don't believe you are changing the impeller every 100 hours, right?
This man knows exactly what he is doing. I bet he could do it blindfolded. Thanks, Although I have a brand new engine I look forward to getting my hands dirty when it's time and I will be referencing this video.
Great video as usual. I've got a 2018 model without that second fuel filter thankfully. Of any of the outboards I've worked on, I've found this to be the easiest 6 or 8 cylinder to maintain.
Thank you for this great video! I am following your instructions, but can’t take the side covers off. Is it the rubber flange seal that makes it so difficult, or there might be an additional bolt/s. I do see a bolt at the front that seems to connect the two side plates together.
Also with the impeller and the standard way to flush without the engine running through that cowl port are you getting the impeller properly flushed or is that the one part in the engine that isn't flushed with the engine not running?
Yes! The water will flow through the engine from the flush port and run down through onto the impeller, flushing it out properly :) Even with the engine not running!
You can, but after a couple of revolutions of the engine, the air will all work its way through the injectors and purge itself relatively quickly with no damage
Curently servicing an 150 four stroke and I noticed that the fuel filter that is under the yellow handle was smoked black. I removed the lower cowlings and everything was smoked. Have you ever noticed something like that?
Thank you for your very informative video, I currently did 100 hour service on my 150 four stroke and I accidentally poured a bit of the foil seal from the oil jug into the oil fill is this something I should be concerned about? Thanks in advance
Well, it's definitely not a good thing, but there really isn't much you can do about it now, so I'd say to forget about it and move on! Hopefully it gets sucked up into the oil filter and you never think about it again :) Congrats on the service though! Keep up the great work!
Great Video Thanks for posting . I have a few Questions. Does this motor have any internal anodes that need replacing. What Are those two screw like tools that keep the impeller housing still while you turn the shaft called, and what is their size. Also do you have the torque amount for the 4 bolts that screws the impeller housing down as well as the four bolts on the outside of the motor that secure the lower unit.
Thanks for all the videos! Any advice for retrieving a fuel line on a 150 merc 4stroke that slipped while replacing a fuel filter? I did the port motor inline fuel filter at our dock. The stb motor fuel line slipped because of corrosion guard while trying to change inline filter. (still totally my fault) Is there a way to retrieve that fuel line without pulling boat and removing lower chaps chaps on stb motor. Thanks in advance! Mark
Got the fuel line back out of lower cowl by partially splitting chaps. I removed all bolts except front latch on the chaps and was able to fish fuel line up. Your video was a great help! Moral of the story: don't drop fuel line while replacing fuel filer. It added some time to a really simple task. lol
Thanks for this! My dealer told me I had to bring my 150 four stroke in for a 20 hour procedure when I bought it new a few months ago. I now have 20 hours on the motor and others have said there is no 20 hour maintenance, just run it until the first 100 hour/annual. Can you tell me if a new motor really needs a 20 hour service?
Thank you! Yes! Absolutely, it is crucial that you do the 20 hour service! Idk who told you not to, but that is a bad idea, period! Doesn't matter if the dealer does it or not, but it definitely needs to be done. Here is an article that we wrote on it that goes into more detail on doing the 20 hour and why it is important to do it: www.bornagainboating.com/break-in-period/ Change the oil in the engine and the gear lube in the lower unit. It's best to change the drain seals on the lower unit drain plugs when you do it. Some people don't change the engine oil filter when they do the 20 hour, others do. That's your choice, but definitely change them :) Hope this helps, thank you for commenting!
My dealer told me 10 hours. The piston rings need to seat in the engine cylinders and they do that by scraping inside the cylinder bore. That process scrapes metal and removing those tiny pieces is why I did the oil and filter change. I think it’s worth it on a brand new engine.
Hi what a great video, congratulations, quick question what type of oil is better for this motors i have a150 model xl, but it comes with two types of oil 25w 40 or 10w 30??
Would you ordinarily replace all those fuel filters including the one deep inside the engine just that 100 hour or are you showing us how to replace them if necessary? 100 hours isn't a lot on a motor I can see changing the synthetic oil and putting in a new filter and examining some of the stuff but I don't think I need a new belt after a hundred hours do I? Thanks
No :) I just did the whole thing so that you can see every part depending on what service interval you are at :) You can look on the starboard side of the engine and on the side there it shows the maintenance intervals! At 100 hours you just do the fuel filters, (except the one in the bottom, that do at 300 hours), the engine oil, oil filter, and the gear lube with the drain seals. Then at 300 hours or 2 years you generally do the other things, spark plugs, belts, impeller, thermostats, etc. Your hours are more the reference point to knowing when you need to do the next service and what type of service you should do :). On a brand new engine, you definitely want to at least drop the lower unit and grease everything at 2 years. The engines don't come with grease on any of those parts from the factory. So if you only have say 50 hours at two years, you still want to at least drop the gear case and grease it!
@@BornAgainBoating thanks so much, i have the 115hp version on 2017 Dauntless, only had its 1st 100 hour, im due in for my 2nd service about now. My 1st 4-stroke, loving it.
There is a trick to get the shifter connection back together. You have to put the shifter In forward before you pull the lower unit of. If not it is almost impossible to get it back on right.
Followed your video step by step! Thank you so much for all of your help! Quick question, after I installed the new impeller and gaskets, but now I noticed that the water flow from the impeller is not strong at all and the motor is overheating. Any idea what may be causing this?
Thank you! You may have missed the water tube or the adapter for the water tube fell out while you were doing the service :) I would say it has to be connected to the water tube coming out of the water pump housing! Congrats on getting the service done!
Do you have to drain the oil on this engine to change the water pump impeller? I changed the oil before storing it for the winter, but need to do the impeller now.
Hi, what’s the common water temperature during normal use ? Could we use this data in order to change the thermostat (in case of abnormal parameter) ? I have removed it to clean it a wee bit, and found that the thermostat could easily be removed from its case. Any chance to get it without the case ? Many thanks for your tutorial which is perfect ! Eric
I think the 150 thermostats are set at 143 or maybe 147 so somewhere around there. Sadly though, I don't think you can buy the thermostat without the housing :( maybe an aftermarket one, but i don't know of one
Thank you. Yes, absolutely you can run the engine at idle on the flush attachment. Without any harm. You don't really want to run it for 3 hours and make sure not to rev the engine up while on the flush port or it can damage the impeller. But running at idle or below say around 1000 RPM's for 10-15 minutes, that's completely fine. If you are going to be revving the engine up or letting it run at a really high idle for awhile. It's best to put a pair of ear muffs on it.
thank you, living here in Fl i run the boat 12 months a year!! I do the 100 in January and engine oil and filter in June. and at each time I spray the engine with fogging oil . it still looks the same today as it did in 2017 when I bought it! For the cost of the parts and ease of doing the service, why not?! With that being said in the freshwater i have no problem shutting it down. Saltwater when im offshore the engine will run from the launch to the return at the ramp . do i need to consider any additives to the oil??? i run the merc oil and filter thats required . Just curious cause its alot of idle/trolling?? Thank You for your time and helpful videos
You're welcome! Yes, Florida is the best! Sounds like you've got it down, I think you are doing great with all of the care and things that you are doing. You don't need to add anything to the oil or anything like that. Maybe 2 or 3 times a year run a bottle of quickleen in you're fuel and that will clean out any carbon build up that will happen from long idle/trolling. I think it's like $10 a bottle so no big deal! You are welcome :) Thank you for commenting!
Awesome knowledge.i have a 2013 Mercury four-stroke that builds up alot of carbon and now I realize water is mixed with the gas that is coming from the fuel pump cannisters that's going through the filter and into the injectors.please help me
Sounds like the o-rings in the FSM have failed. It won't put water into the injecters because the fuel pressure will push the fuel into the water instead of the other way around. You should see a fuel leak out the prop or in the water. Check out this video for a little more info: th-cam.com/video/sm6T3jOw8LM/w-d-xo.html
Thanks heaps for the reply, full of good info!! Off the top of your head do you know what size the tube is?? So I can order a valve. I work away... otherwise I would check it myself. Thanks heaps.
Cheers mate!! You’re super helpful. I hope this info from yourself helps others in there searching for a resolution to the bubbling and leaking from the flush point. Thanks heaps and keep the 150 merc vids coming!!
Cheers! Hah, thank you! For sure, I have another video about decarboning a 150 but haven't gotten it made yet. I recorded it when I did this service :) Eventually I'll get it out!
When you took off the starboard chap to get to the HP filter did you remove any cables,fuel hose,from the rigging adapter or did you manage to maneuver it out of the way?I'll be replacing the HP filter with the new updated part. 2013 150hp 4 stroke.Also do you think this new filter will be servicable without having to remove the side chaps?
No, you should be able to just split the chaps and then push it to the side without unhooking any of the rigging! Sadly, you still have to remove the side chap to change that filter. On the new model engines, they don't even have that filter anymore! You could put a boat fuel water separator in and then remove the filter all together, or we've also seen people take a piece of hose and extend it up into the back of the cowling with a loop in it before it goes to the fuel rail. That way they can check it and change it when needed.
You nailed the problem last time, really hope you don’t mind me picking your brain again. Day on the water not a problem, got home, washed the boat and went to start the motor, nothing... just a click... trim also is just a clicking noise... I’d assume batteries are finished, but they’re 12.7 volts on a multimeter and not all that old. I’ve check fuses and radio, sounder and gps all work. I’m thinking water has got in the isolator or maybe ignition... but that’s just a guess. Any ideas would be great!! Thanks.
Check to make sure the power and ground wires are all tight going from the battery to the engine. If everything else is working, sounds like one of those cables could be loose :) something to try!
Thanks for the reply. That’s exactly what it was. They were tight, so cleaned them all up with some wet and dry, now all good. Time to buy some terminal spray to protect them. Thanks for that.
Can a short piece of fuel line be added to high fuel filter to move it over the muffler and make it more accessible? Would there be any problems with that. It could be done with few bends?
They stopped making the filter you saw in the video.When you order a replacement they send you an updated version that I have but haven't installed yet.It's a longer fuel line and a very thin filter that fits inside and between the top of the hose and the fuel rail.
Hello. What year of the Mercury 150HP Four stroke has 2 fuel filters? Mine is from 2016 and im not sure if its one or two filters. Many Thanks Fredrik L
Thank you for your question! Please post it in our Born Again Boating Community! Go here and scroll down to access - it’s free: www.bornagainboating.com/
The high pressure fuel filter that is situated behind the lower cowling in only on older models having serial number 2B178185 and below. Newer engines have a filter screen that goes into the fuel rail.
Great video. I suggest renaming this video to reflect that many of the steps performed are relevant for the 300 hour maintenance schedule. It would be helpful to also include some information in the about section in regards to the difference when it comes to high pressure fuel filter on engines with serial number 2B178186 and above.
What a great channel this is! My Merc 150 4 stroke is a 2018 model and I noticed a red wire marked "calibrate" disconnected from a wire harness on the port side of the engine....engine seems to run fine....any idea what this wire if for and should i connect it back together? Thanks!
I believe that is for the trim limit system and no, it's only used when calibrating that trim limiter. If you connect it, it will mess up your trim limit and trim readings. It used to be orange, maybe they changed it or it is something else. But I would leave it alone, it's only used when setting the calibrations :)
I've almost got it all wrapped up, but am hung up getting the lower unit of my port engine back on. It's about 1/2" away from mating up, sounds like metal on metal thud. It's possible I move/rotated the shift shaft. Which position should I turn the shift shaft to be in neutral?
That awesome! Sounds like the shift shaft isn't lining up to me too! Just hold on to the prop shaft with a rag and then turn the shift shaft lightly left or right until you feel it go into neutral and the pro shaft spins. Just spin the shift shaft until it feels like it is hitting something. It shouldn't spin more than like a 1/8-1/4"
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Hi, great video. One question, after you remove the impeller and the plate, under that is a white part. I got that part when I ordered the 300h service kit and it looks like I need to change he this one as well. Do u have any instructions how to get it out? I manage to remove the metal spring but unable to remove the part.
Thank you! No worries, they aren't that difficult to remove. Just take two screw drivers and pry up on them using the little tabs. If the holes strip out, drive the screw drivers into the fitting a little bit and then pry it out. Here is a video where we pull one out: th-cam.com/video/DeZOzznogFw/w-d-xo.html
Born Again Boating thank you! I successfully removed it today and completed the service. Tomorrow I will proceed with the sea trail. I had some issues putting the lower shaft back together the gear piston was very sensitive and i manage to spin it a little bit so the prop wouldn’t spin when I had assembly it so I had to take it a part again, second time I believe I got it right. Prop now spins in neutral.
Open up the PCM or electrical box by pulling it up and out. Then you'll find a 10 mil bolt in there, take that out and the box will be able to move aft so that you can get more access, that's the easiest and quickest way :)
@@BornAgainBoating Thanks a whole lot, I was able to change the thermostat finally, There is that 10 mm bolt you mentionned in the center of the box but in my case there is also another one on the top left hand side that allows to slide the frame to the left a bit and pull away from the motor just enough to pull out the thermostat. I did not change the plastic casing but changed the O ring also. I had small rocks stucked inside which kept the thermo open. This all started because I have milky oil on the dip stick and the mercury mecanic told me operating temp was 80F (after 15 min at 3200 RPM) and it is the cause of condensation. The next question is "how do I remove the milky oil from the motor" ? you make the best videos I've seen since in a lot of years.
In the FSM on the back of the midsection, you have to take all the chaps off to get to it and then they can be tricky to open and put back together: th-cam.com/video/sm6T3jOw8LM/w-d-xo.html
I got the same exact engine I have a 2013 Mercury outboard 150 how do I get a service manual or owners manual can someone here let me know please I'm in southeast Florida if that helps
I removed the 1 bolt under the anode and the 4 nuts holding the lower unit, the unit seems stuck. It feels like there is something holding it together. Its a 2015 Mercury 90 4stroke with 400hrs. What could be wrong?
hello Mr, I bought a brand new Mercury 150 EFI 4 stroke and it won't start. when I put the key on start there is an electric click sound and the starter does not work, you can hear the fuel pump but that's it..did you know what the problem is? the battery is also brand new 100Ah 850 ampere thank you for giving your opinion answer..
Hello! Rose here, assisting Aaron with comments. Fantastic question! It's going on our podcast feature list. Haven't checked it out yet? Subscribe here: www.youtube.com/@TheBoatersPodcast
well that all Outbord users must know that it is necessary to use good Marine cable 25 mm2, with copper tips, otherwise even new motors will not start..the cables sold in supermarkets are junk, problems, irritation , time, money lost..
I was changing out the impeller but when reinstalling The lower unit is about a half inch away from setting with the upper unit and can't get it to set And the propeller isn't spinning either. Ahhh what did I do? everything else went great and almost done then ran into this problem. What you think?
Sounds like the shift shaft is not lining up. Make sure the adapter for the water pick up is lining up. Then also turn the gear case to make sure the driveshaft splines are lining up. If it is the shift shaft, make sure the control box handle is in neutral, as well as the lower unit. Just spin the shift shaft on the lower unit until you can spin the prop shaft to make sure it is in neutral. Then you should be able to slide it right up in place! Stick a nut on to hold the gear case and shift it back and forth from forward to reverse to make sure the shift shaft lined up properly and then put all the nuts and prop back on! Hope this helps, you'll get it :)
@@cannonball0408 ok, that does happen. You can either play with it and try and grease it up to get it to stay, or have a pair of needle nose pliers on it in neutral and try and push it up really quickly before it has a chance to spin into gear. Or you can also have someone look at the shift shaft and shift the control box into gear. Watch which way it turns and then look at the gear case and see which way it turns. Then just put the control box handle in whichever position the gear case is going into and put it up in gear. It can get tricky, some lower units do that, it's frustrating, but you'll get it! Good luck!
Hi I’ve got a 2013 merc 150 4 stroke. It’s bubbling a lot from the bottom exhaust at idle.. been told it’s not a big deal, I want to clear the blockage as it annoys me... any chance of a vid or directions on that?? Cheers.
Hello! You can try and change out the thermostat, or just take it out and clean it out. Here's a video about water coming out the exhaust and bubbling: th-cam.com/video/OeCNF6IFf1Y/w-d-xo.html
Thanks heaps for that!!! Changed thermostat, problem fixed. Noticed I’ve got a drip from the flush point on the side of the motor.. next job... Cheers for that
@@saltykids5651 Awesome! Got you covered for the drip too! Check this out: th-cam.com/video/-tsBJYJy6Z0/w-d-xo.html That is on a Verado, but it is exactly the same on the 150! It's just an inline valve on the 150 though, so just follow the flush line up and there's your valve! Congrats on the fix, nice work!
Yeah thanks heaps for the vid. I looked at it before that and assumed it’d be the 1 way valve... either a rubber seal or the spring I’d guess. Can I do away with that and just install a stainless or plastic ball valve?? That way I can open it if I want to flush the motor from that pointless flush spot.. cheers
@@saltykids5651 No worries, yeah, you can do whatever you want :) Just as long as it isn't wide open, you'll loose your cooling water if there isn't a shut off there. So as long as you can shut it off, you'll be good to go! If you don't use the flush port there, you could always just plug off the hose too!
I don't have to do this all on my 25 year old two stroke. I'm starting to rethink buying four stroke. This is going to be expensive to have done if hired out done by a shop.
The only fuel filter that needs regular replacement is the one that’s easy to get to at the top with the yellow tab. I’m sure the one at the bottom can go 1000 hours, that’s at least what I’m going to do with mine.
You want to start by following that hose that the flush fitting is attached to. About 1 foot or so up the hose is a check valve. Remove that and check if it is clogged. Then if that doesnt work, pull the thermostat and see if you've got a bunch of sand stuck in the engine! Good luck, I hope it's just the flush fitting check valve!
I think they are great! We don't see too many problems with them, just the normal stuff. We have a trap guy that has one from 2016 and it has just over 4,000 hours! The one we see that has the most trouble, isn't really the an engine issue. It is an issue with the fuel delivery system and one of the boat's fuel tanks has a leak. So when switched from the aft tank to the forward tank. The engines suck up water, then the water rusts out the fuel pumps and creates all kinds of trouble! There is also a case where the engine is never ran at wot and basically stays below 3,000 RPM's for the entire life of the engine and that engine has had some carbon build up issues. So the occasionaly WOT is a good thing :)
That's true. 300-hour services consist of performing a 100-hour service but 100-hour services consist of performing a 300-hour service if it has been more than two years since the last 100-hour service. This was done at three years with only about 200 hours on the engines. So it is considered a full service, not just the oils and filters that would be done if it was only a true 100-hour service. They call it a 100-hour service because you do it every 100 hours, so when you are at 800 hours what you perform will depend on what and how long ago your last service was! This is more to help out everyone and covers the entire service so it can help more than just those on their true 100-hour service. Thank you for pointing this out!
Great video thanks! But reading through the manual, I don't see the water pump or impeller replacement in the 100hr service? Did you include that just to let us know what to do on the 300hr service? I don't believe you are changing the impeller every 100 hours, right?
Yes, exactly, just showing you the full 300 hour but depending on where you are will determine what components you change out :)
This man knows exactly what he is doing. I bet he could do it blindfolded. Thanks, Although I have a brand new engine I look forward to getting my hands dirty when it's time and I will be referencing this video.
Thank you! I hope that it helps you make it through your service quickly and with ease!
Great video as usual. I've got a 2018 model without that second fuel filter thankfully. Of any of the outboards I've worked on, I've found this to be the easiest 6 or 8 cylinder to maintain.
That video REALLY helped me out! Thanks for making it!
Glad it helped!
awesome video. What are the torque specs for the prop nut and the lower unit nuts? Thanks!
I ended up getting myself a 2021 merc 150 4 stroke for my 20x6flat bottom aluminum boat 20 shaft/transom
A, thank you for a well made concise instructional video! The only thing better would be to have you do it!!
You're welcome!
Thank you for this great video!
I am following your instructions, but can’t take the side covers off.
Is it the rubber flange seal that makes it so difficult, or there might be an additional bolt/s.
I do see a bolt at the front that seems to connect the two side plates together.
Also with the impeller and the standard way to flush without the engine running through that cowl port are you getting the impeller properly flushed or is that the one part in the engine that isn't flushed with the engine not running?
Yes! The water will flow through the engine from the flush port and run down through onto the impeller, flushing it out properly :) Even with the engine not running!
Hey mate, do you have to purge the fuel rail if replacing the high pressure fuel filter ?
You can, but after a couple of revolutions of the engine, the air will all work its way through the injectors and purge itself relatively quickly with no damage
Curently servicing an 150 four stroke and I noticed that the fuel filter that is under the yellow handle was smoked black. I removed the lower cowlings and everything was smoked. Have you ever noticed something like that?
Thank you for your very informative video, I currently did 100 hour service on my 150 four stroke and I accidentally poured a bit of the foil seal from the oil jug into the oil fill is this something I should be concerned about? Thanks in advance
Well, it's definitely not a good thing, but there really isn't much you can do about it now, so I'd say to forget about it and move on! Hopefully it gets sucked up into the oil filter and you never think about it again :) Congrats on the service though! Keep up the great work!
@@BornAgainBoating thank you sir I appreciate you taking the time to answer my question
Great Video Thanks for posting . I have a few Questions. Does this motor have any internal anodes that need replacing. What Are those two screw like tools that keep the impeller housing still while you turn the shaft called, and what is their size. Also do you have the torque amount for the 4 bolts that screws the impeller housing down as well as the four bolts on the outside of the motor that secure the lower unit.
I'll email you back here shortly ;)
Thanks for all the videos! Any advice for retrieving a fuel line on a 150 merc 4stroke that slipped while replacing a fuel filter? I did the port motor inline fuel filter at our dock. The stb motor fuel line slipped because of corrosion guard while trying to change inline filter. (still totally my fault) Is there a way to retrieve that fuel line without pulling boat and removing lower chaps chaps on stb motor. Thanks in advance!
Mark
Got the fuel line back out of lower cowl by partially splitting chaps. I removed all bolts except front latch on the chaps and was able to fish fuel line up. Your video was a great help! Moral of the story: don't drop fuel line while replacing fuel filer. It added some time to a really simple task. lol
What would cause water to come out of the top exhaust and more pressure out the lower outlet? Also 🌡 not getting up
What kind of o-rings did you put on the oil drain plug ? Can I use automotive o-rings?
I hope your making good money from your videos. You deserve to. I sure wish I could find someone with your knowledge to work with me at my marina.
Thanks for this! My dealer told me I had to bring my 150 four stroke in for a 20 hour procedure when I bought it new a few months ago. I now have 20 hours on the motor and others have said there is no 20 hour maintenance, just run it until the first 100 hour/annual. Can you tell me if a new motor really needs a 20 hour service?
Thank you! Yes! Absolutely, it is crucial that you do the 20 hour service! Idk who told you not to, but that is a bad idea, period! Doesn't matter if the dealer does it or not, but it definitely needs to be done.
Here is an article that we wrote on it that goes into more detail on doing the 20 hour and why it is important to do it: www.bornagainboating.com/break-in-period/
Change the oil in the engine and the gear lube in the lower unit. It's best to change the drain seals on the lower unit drain plugs when you do it. Some people don't change the engine oil filter when they do the 20 hour, others do. That's your choice, but definitely change them :) Hope this helps, thank you for commenting!
My dealer told me 10 hours. The piston rings need to seat in the engine cylinders and they do that by scraping inside the cylinder bore. That process scrapes metal and removing those tiny pieces is why I did the oil and filter change. I think it’s worth it on a brand new engine.
Hi what a great video, congratulations, quick question what type of oil is better for this motors i have a150 model xl, but it comes with two types of oil 25w 40 or 10w 30??
We usually use the 25w 40, 10w 30 is pretty thin :/
Would you ordinarily replace all those fuel filters including the one deep inside the engine just that 100 hour or are you showing us how to replace them if necessary? 100 hours isn't a lot on a motor I can see changing the synthetic oil and putting in a new filter and examining some of the stuff but I don't think I need a new belt after a hundred hours do I? Thanks
No :) I just did the whole thing so that you can see every part depending on what service interval you are at :) You can look on the starboard side of the engine and on the side there it shows the maintenance intervals! At 100 hours you just do the fuel filters, (except the one in the bottom, that do at 300 hours), the engine oil, oil filter, and the gear lube with the drain seals. Then at 300 hours or 2 years you generally do the other things, spark plugs, belts, impeller, thermostats, etc. Your hours are more the reference point to knowing when you need to do the next service and what type of service you should do :). On a brand new engine, you definitely want to at least drop the lower unit and grease everything at 2 years. The engines don't come with grease on any of those parts from the factory. So if you only have say 50 hours at two years, you still want to at least drop the gear case and grease it!
@@BornAgainBoating thanks so much, i have the 115hp version on 2017 Dauntless, only had its 1st 100 hour, im due in for my 2nd service about now. My 1st 4-stroke, loving it.
There is a trick to get the shifter connection back together. You have to put the shifter In forward before you pull the lower unit of. If not it is almost impossible to get it back on right.
Followed your video step by step! Thank you so much for all of your help! Quick question, after I installed the new impeller and gaskets, but now I noticed that the water flow from the impeller is not strong at all and the motor is overheating. Any idea what may be causing this?
Thank you! You may have missed the water tube or the adapter for the water tube fell out while you were doing the service :) I would say it has to be connected to the water tube coming out of the water pump housing! Congrats on getting the service done!
Do you have to drain the oil on this engine to change the water pump impeller? I changed the oil before storing it for the winter, but need to do the impeller now.
Answered it myself. It doesn't have to be drained. It was about 1/2 qt low.
Lol nope you don't have too ;) lol nice work!
Very god video.
I own a 200hp 4cyl verado does it follow the same procedure as the 150hp when doing the 100 hour service ?
Thanks in advance
Thank you! No, they are basically identical to the 6 Cylinder Verado service, check this video out: th-cam.com/video/oKV3-n5v59o/w-d-xo.html
Thank you very much have a great day
AWESOME video this will definitely help me do an impeller change and save a ton of $$ thank you!
No worries, you're welcome! Thank you for commenting :) !
Regarding the 5/8" hose: Is that ID, or OD?
Hi, what’s the common water temperature during normal use ?
Could we use this data in order to change the thermostat (in case of abnormal parameter) ?
I have removed it to clean it a wee bit, and found that the thermostat could easily be removed from its case. Any chance to get it without the case ?
Many thanks for your tutorial which is perfect !
Eric
I think the 150 thermostats are set at 143 or maybe 147 so somewhere around there. Sadly though, I don't think you can buy the thermostat without the housing :( maybe an aftermarket one, but i don't know of one
@@BornAgainBoating thanks for your reply !
Great Video! i do have a question , using the flush fitting to flush the engine can you idle the engine while flushing??
Thank you. Yes, absolutely you can run the engine at idle on the flush attachment. Without any harm. You don't really want to run it for 3 hours and make sure not to rev the engine up while on the flush port or it can damage the impeller.
But running at idle or below say around 1000 RPM's for 10-15 minutes, that's completely fine. If you are going to be revving the engine up or letting it run at a really high idle for awhile. It's best to put a pair of ear muffs on it.
thank you, living here in Fl i run the boat 12 months a year!! I do the 100 in January and engine oil and filter in June. and at each time I spray the engine with fogging oil . it still looks the same today as it did in 2017 when I bought it! For the cost of the parts and ease of doing the service, why not?! With that being said in the freshwater i have no problem shutting it down. Saltwater when im offshore the engine will run from the launch to the return at the ramp . do i need to consider any additives to the oil??? i run the merc oil and filter thats required . Just curious cause its alot of idle/trolling??
Thank You for your time and helpful videos
You're welcome! Yes, Florida is the best! Sounds like you've got it down, I think you are doing great with all of the care and things that you are doing. You don't need to add anything to the oil or anything like that. Maybe 2 or 3 times a year run a bottle of quickleen in you're fuel and that will clean out any carbon build up that will happen from long idle/trolling. I think it's like $10 a bottle so no big deal! You are welcome :) Thank you for commenting!
@@BornAgainBoating even though most of my fuel comes from WaWa non ethanol i still run seafoam at every fill up!! Your Channel is the Bomb!!
@Oldskool 1968 Cool! There ya go, then you are already on top of it lol not much else you can do, preventative maintenance wise :)
what are the torque specs for the thermostat housing?
Awesome knowledge.i have a 2013 Mercury four-stroke that builds up alot of carbon and now I realize water is mixed with the gas that is coming from the fuel pump cannisters that's going through the filter and into the injectors.please help me
Sounds like the o-rings in the FSM have failed. It won't put water into the injecters because the fuel pressure will push the fuel into the water instead of the other way around. You should see a fuel leak out the prop or in the water. Check out this video for a little more info: th-cam.com/video/sm6T3jOw8LM/w-d-xo.html
This video is great. Is this basically the same for a 2016 75 Mercury four stroke?
Thank you so much! Yes, they are extremely similar with only a couple of differences in locations of the fuel filters!
Except the alternator belt.
Thanks heaps for the reply, full of good info!!
Off the top of your head do you know what size the tube is?? So I can order a valve. I work away... otherwise I would check it myself. Thanks heaps.
No worries! Thank you! It should be a 3/8" hose.
Cheers mate!! You’re super helpful. I hope this info from yourself helps others in there searching for a resolution to the bubbling and leaking from the flush point. Thanks heaps and keep the 150 merc vids coming!!
Cheers! Hah, thank you! For sure, I have another video about decarboning a 150 but haven't gotten it made yet. I recorded it when I did this service :) Eventually I'll get it out!
Awesome
What about the video for the Carbon Buildup. Di you post that one?
When you took off the starboard chap to get to the HP filter did you remove any cables,fuel hose,from the rigging adapter or did you manage to maneuver it out of the way?I'll be replacing the HP filter with the new updated part. 2013 150hp 4 stroke.Also do you think this new filter will be servicable without having to remove the side chaps?
No, you should be able to just split the chaps and then push it to the side without unhooking any of the rigging!
Sadly, you still have to remove the side chap to change that filter. On the new model engines, they don't even have that filter anymore! You could put a boat fuel water separator in and then remove the filter all together, or we've also seen people take a piece of hose and extend it up into the back of the cowling with a loop in it before it goes to the fuel rail. That way they can check it and change it when needed.
You nailed the problem last time, really hope you don’t mind me picking your brain again. Day on the water not a problem, got home, washed the boat and went to start the motor, nothing... just a click... trim also is just a clicking noise... I’d assume batteries are finished, but they’re 12.7 volts on a multimeter and not all that old. I’ve check fuses and radio, sounder and gps all work. I’m thinking water has got in the isolator or maybe ignition... but that’s just a guess.
Any ideas would be great!! Thanks.
Check to make sure the power and ground wires are all tight going from the battery to the engine. If everything else is working, sounds like one of those cables could be loose :) something to try!
Thanks for the reply. That’s exactly what it was. They were tight, so cleaned them all up with some wet and dry, now all good. Time to buy some terminal spray to protect them. Thanks for that.
Can a short piece of fuel line be added to high fuel filter to move it over the muffler and make it more accessible? Would there be any problems with that. It could be done with few bends?
They stopped making the filter you saw in the video.When you order a replacement they send you an updated version that I have but haven't installed yet.It's a longer fuel line and a very thin filter that fits inside and between the top of the hose and the fuel rail.
Great vid! Question: Would a 2018 merc 150 have the second fuel filter?
Hello, thank you! No, they got rid of that filter around 2014 or possibly even earlier. So you are all good!
My 2016 merc 150 has only the one high side fuel filter.
Hello.
What year of the Mercury 150HP Four stroke has 2 fuel filters?
Mine is from 2016 and im not sure if its one or two filters.
Many Thanks Fredrik L
Thank you for your question! Please post it in our Born Again Boating Community! Go here and scroll down to access - it’s free: www.bornagainboating.com/
The high pressure fuel filter that is situated behind the lower cowling in only on older models having serial number 2B178185 and below. Newer engines have a filter screen that goes into the fuel rail.
@@Drgorst Thank you for reply.
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Very Good presentation!
Thank you! Hopefully it will help those that have these engines :)
Doesn't Mercury make a kit that does away with the secondary fuel filter? The newer 150s dont have it.
Awesome vid! Helps a lot thank you!
Great video. I suggest renaming this video to reflect that many of the steps performed are relevant for the 300 hour maintenance schedule. It would be helpful to also include some information in the about section in regards to the difference when it comes to high pressure fuel filter on engines with serial number 2B178186 and above.
Thank you for this great information !!!
What a great channel this is! My Merc 150 4 stroke is a 2018 model and I noticed a red wire marked "calibrate" disconnected from a wire harness on the port side of the engine....engine seems to run fine....any idea what this wire if for and should i connect it back together? Thanks!
I believe that is for the trim limit system and no, it's only used when calibrating that trim limiter. If you connect it, it will mess up your trim limit and trim readings. It used to be orange, maybe they changed it or it is something else. But I would leave it alone, it's only used when setting the calibrations :)
Thank you so much for the information!
You should just start by removing all outer covers... and leave them off until everything is replaced!! Like that lower spark plug
I've almost got it all wrapped up, but am hung up getting the lower unit of my port engine back on. It's about 1/2" away from mating up, sounds like metal on metal thud. It's possible I move/rotated the shift shaft. Which position should I turn the shift shaft to be in neutral?
That awesome! Sounds like the shift shaft isn't lining up to me too! Just hold on to the prop shaft with a rag and then turn the shift shaft lightly left or right until you feel it go into neutral and the pro shaft spins. Just spin the shift shaft until it feels like it is hitting something. It shouldn't spin more than like a 1/8-1/4"
could you make a video on changing the internal anodes?
Hello, does this engine have internal block anodes? I've never had to change them, but I don't think that they have any like the Yamaha's do.
Love it ,right to the point there!
Thanks bud!
You're welcome! Thank you!
How do you access the 2 grease nipples on the 150 steering cylinder?
Greetings! Rose here, expressing gratitude for your comment! However, I'm unable to address your specific question. We've found it more beneficial to answer such question on our podcast channel.
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Hi, great video. One question, after you remove the impeller and the plate, under that is a white part. I got that part when I ordered the 300h service kit and it looks like I need to change he this one as well. Do u have any instructions how to get it out? I manage to remove the metal spring but unable to remove the part.
Thank you! No worries, they aren't that difficult to remove. Just take two screw drivers and pry up on them using the little tabs. If the holes strip out, drive the screw drivers into the fitting a little bit and then pry it out. Here is a video where we pull one out: th-cam.com/video/DeZOzznogFw/w-d-xo.html
Born Again Boating thank you! I successfully removed it today and completed the service. Tomorrow I will proceed with the sea trail. I had some issues putting the lower shaft back together the gear piston was very sensitive and i manage to spin it a little bit so the prop wouldn’t spin when I had assembly it so I had to take it a part again, second time I believe I got it right. Prop now spins in neutral.
Ok! Awesome! Nice work!
I have a 2011 Verado 150 HP, the thermostat is on the starboard side behind some electrical wires, is there a trick in getting it off ?
Open up the PCM or electrical box by pulling it up and out. Then you'll find a 10 mil bolt in there, take that out and the box will be able to move aft so that you can get more access, that's the easiest and quickest way :)
@@BornAgainBoating Thanks a whole lot, I was able to change the thermostat finally, There is that 10 mm bolt you mentionned in the center of the box but in my case there is also another one on the top left hand side that allows to slide the frame to the left a bit and pull away from the motor just enough to pull out the thermostat. I did not change the plastic casing but changed the O ring also. I had small rocks stucked inside which kept the thermo open. This all started because I have milky oil on the dip stick and the mercury mecanic told me operating temp was 80F (after 15 min at 3200 RPM) and it is the cause of condensation. The next question is "how do I remove the milky oil from the motor" ? you make the best videos I've seen since in a lot of years.
What is the correct torque for the bolts holding the alternator?
Question: where is the hi pressure fuel pump
In the FSM on the back of the midsection, you have to take all the chaps off to get to it and then they can be tricky to open and put back together: th-cam.com/video/sm6T3jOw8LM/w-d-xo.html
I got the same exact engine I have a 2013 Mercury outboard 150 how do I get a service manual or owners manual can someone here let me know please I'm in southeast Florida if that helps
I removed the 1 bolt under the anode and the 4 nuts holding the lower unit, the unit seems stuck. It feels like there is something holding it together. Its a 2015 Mercury 90 4stroke with 400hrs. What could be wrong?
great stuff!! thanks
Your welcome! I'm glad it helped you out!
Thanks a lot for the video, you saved me a lot of money ;)
No worries! Great work getting it done!
hello Mr, I bought a brand new Mercury 150 EFI 4 stroke and it won't start. when I put the key on start there is an electric click sound and the starter does not work, you can hear the fuel pump but that's it..did you know what the problem is? the battery is also brand new 100Ah 850 ampere thank you for giving your opinion answer..
Hello! Rose here, assisting Aaron with comments. Fantastic question! It's going on our podcast feature list. Haven't checked it out yet? Subscribe here: www.youtube.com/@TheBoatersPodcast
well that all Outbord users must know that it is necessary to use good Marine cable 25 mm2, with copper tips, otherwise even new motors will not start..the cables sold in supermarkets are junk, problems, irritation , time, money lost..
Great video!
Thank you!
You are the best,👍👍
Thank you!
I was changing out the impeller but when reinstalling The lower unit is about a half inch away from setting with the upper unit and can't get it to set And the propeller isn't spinning either. Ahhh what did I do? everything else went great and almost done then ran into this problem. What you think?
Sounds like the shift shaft is not lining up. Make sure the adapter for the water pick up is lining up. Then also turn the gear case to make sure the driveshaft splines are lining up. If it is the shift shaft, make sure the control box handle is in neutral, as well as the lower unit. Just spin the shift shaft on the lower unit until you can spin the prop shaft to make sure it is in neutral. Then you should be able to slide it right up in place! Stick a nut on to hold the gear case and shift it back and forth from forward to reverse to make sure the shift shaft lined up properly and then put all the nuts and prop back on! Hope this helps, you'll get it :)
So I can’t get it to stay in neutral. With the shift shaft I’m turning it but moves back into gear.
@@cannonball0408 ok, that does happen. You can either play with it and try and grease it up to get it to stay, or have a pair of needle nose pliers on it in neutral and try and push it up really quickly before it has a chance to spin into gear.
Or you can also have someone look at the shift shaft and shift the control box into gear. Watch which way it turns and then look at the gear case and see which way it turns. Then just put the control box handle in whichever position the gear case is going into and put it up in gear.
It can get tricky, some lower units do that, it's frustrating, but you'll get it! Good luck!
The needle nose trick worked. Thank you so much for your help.🤙🏼
Hi
I’ve got a 2013 merc 150 4 stroke. It’s bubbling a lot from the bottom exhaust at idle.. been told it’s not a big deal, I want to clear the blockage as it annoys me... any chance of a vid or directions on that?? Cheers.
Hello! You can try and change out the thermostat, or just take it out and clean it out. Here's a video about water coming out the exhaust and bubbling: th-cam.com/video/OeCNF6IFf1Y/w-d-xo.html
Thanks heaps for that!!! Changed thermostat, problem fixed.
Noticed I’ve got a drip from the flush point on the side of the motor.. next job...
Cheers for that
@@saltykids5651 Awesome! Got you covered for the drip too! Check this out: th-cam.com/video/-tsBJYJy6Z0/w-d-xo.html
That is on a Verado, but it is exactly the same on the 150! It's just an inline valve on the 150 though, so just follow the flush line up and there's your valve! Congrats on the fix, nice work!
Yeah thanks heaps for the vid. I looked at it before that and assumed it’d be the 1 way valve... either a rubber seal or the spring I’d guess. Can I do away with that and just install a stainless or plastic ball valve?? That way I can open it if I want to flush the motor from that pointless flush spot..
cheers
@@saltykids5651 No worries, yeah, you can do whatever you want :) Just as long as it isn't wide open, you'll loose your cooling water if there isn't a shut off there. So as long as you can shut it off, you'll be good to go!
If you don't use the flush port there, you could always just plug off the hose too!
I don't have to do this all on my 25 year old two stroke. I'm starting to rethink buying four stroke. This is going to be expensive to have done if hired out done by a shop.
The only fuel filter that needs regular replacement is the one that’s easy to get to at the top with the yellow tab. I’m sure the one at the bottom can go 1000 hours, that’s at least what I’m going to do with mine.
@@kadenengle9385 Newer models doesn't have this bottom filter.
Got a mercury black max 1994
sir, i connect flush fitting but no water came out what should i do..?
You want to start by following that hose that the flush fitting is attached to. About 1 foot or so up the hose is a check valve. Remove that and check if it is clogged.
Then if that doesnt work, pull the thermostat and see if you've got a bunch of sand stuck in the engine!
Good luck, I hope it's just the flush fitting check valve!
@@BornAgainBoating thanks ,new engine i will try again when free
I just purchased a new 150 four stroke. How do you like these motors? Do you see a lot of trouble from them?
I think they are great! We don't see too many problems with them, just the normal stuff. We have a trap guy that has one from 2016 and it has just over 4,000 hours! The one we see that has the most trouble, isn't really the an engine issue. It is an issue with the fuel delivery system and one of the boat's fuel tanks has a leak. So when switched from the aft tank to the forward tank. The engines suck up water, then the water rusts out the fuel pumps and creates all kinds of trouble! There is also a case where the engine is never ran at wot and basically stays below 3,000 RPM's for the entire life of the engine and that engine has had some carbon build up issues. So the occasionaly WOT is a good thing :)
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Anybody willing to teach me on how to build hulls transom stringers etc wanting to learn
Check out Andy with @boatworkstoday
How much is that lower unit housing on that mercury 150 2015 model? Any help would be greatly appreciated
Lower units are around 4K I think
My 2014 was replaced with SS prop after a prop strike, set me back $5k.
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Anyone knows if these 150 Mercs are electronic shift/throttle or cable
Cable
Remind me not to buy a boat with these motors. That fuel filter swap was ridiculous.
So much work 2 do my dads yamaha 90 4 stroke is way less work
This is a 300 hour service not 100 hour.
That's true. 300-hour services consist of performing a 100-hour service but 100-hour services consist of performing a 300-hour service if it has been more than two years since the last 100-hour service. This was done at three years with only about 200 hours on the engines. So it is considered a full service, not just the oils and filters that would be done if it was only a true 100-hour service.
They call it a 100-hour service because you do it every 100 hours, so when you are at 800 hours what you perform will depend on what and how long ago your last service was! This is more to help out everyone and covers the entire service so it can help more than just those on their true 100-hour service.
Thank you for pointing this out!
21224
Great job. But what a horrible design on Mercury’s part.
Thank you! Lol :)
What is horrible?
Junk
Who?
voice really annoying
What voice?
Great video!!!
Thank you!