@stratdelux09 If you google "thru axle" it comes up both ways.. with a hyphen and without.. so I just did it without. As long as people can find the video and get the help they need!
Was cursing at various problems doing this, and who knew there was a clutch on the derailleur? Makes the job a WHOLE lot easier - many thanks for the tutorial.
Thank you for the post.... i figured I couldn't be that dumb that I couldn't get the wheel back on the bike. I'm still debating on the dumb part but after watching the video, i was able to put the wheel back on in minutes. My problem.... i didn't set the chain to the smallest gear. I really appreciate you saving me $50 and the humiliation of having to take it to a bike shop or ask a neighbor. My wife thinks i'm a man again and i feel better about myself. Liked and Subscribed
I was not even half way watching this video, when I had to hit the LIKE & SUBSCRIBE button. Loved the thoroughness of this video. Mark really though of every angle for the beginner Cyclists, like me. Excellent video and presentation Mark. Loved it. Regards from CA
Thank you so much for the kind words and hitting the subscribe button!! I apologize for not replying sooner, so sorry for that! Let me know if you need help with anything else.
Great video, I never had issues changing tires with dropouts but bikes with thru axel and disc brakes I’m so lost. For me turning the bike over makes it a lot easier.
Thanks for the clear explanation on removal/re-install with these thru axles. First time I worked on one of these and your fine point details finally got the job done after struggling for well over an hour just trying to get the wheel off. For the normal recreational rider, my opinion on this is these thru axles are way to complicated for the few times one would have to remove the wheels and then re-install them. But, thanks again for the excellent video and help.
Thanks very much for these instructions! That is exactly what I needed, with the bicycle upside down, since I don't have a work stand. The tip to remove the quick-release axle helped a lot. Most videos that I have found show the R & R right-side up.
No nonsense, excellent post. Good explanation, well presented, calm, non-condescending, good tonality, and informative; what a great video, what more could you ask? well done!
Thank you for the very detailed but simple video. Just purchased a new e-mtb and I want to put Slime inner tubes and RhinoDillos tire liners in the tires. I'm pretty good and confident in my abilities with bicycle maintenance. But I would have missed the part about unlocking the clutch on the derailleur. Thank you again. You are very thorough and very professional without a lot of fluff.
Hi Mark! Doing an ironman as well soon and just switched from a quick release bike (Trek Emonda SL 5) to a thru axel bike (Canyon Aeroad CF SLX Disc eTap). I tried to put my bike on my Wahoo Kickr (direct trainer), but noticed it needs a different part to fit on it. When I tried to put the back wheel back into place, I was struggling because I was trying to do it the same way as my quick release bike. Then I found your video, and the part where you say you bring the derailleur towards you really helped me. It was an amazing moment because I realized how easy it was when you have the right technique! Thanks again and cheers!
What a great demonstration thank you so much. I just bought a new bike with disk brakes and will have to get used to removing my rear wheel and installing it. I used to ride a rim brake touring bike so this all new to me. A great video thank you so much. Michael
Hi Mark. I'm training for an Ironman and was having problems getting my bike on and off the direct drive trainer. This is the best of all the videos. I think doing it upside down has cracked it for me. I also didn't notice the dropouts on my frame as it's through axel and i am used to them on a quick release. they are basically upside down on the through axel. Really helpful thanks!
Glad it helped! Sometimes the axle will have a Allen type socket at each end...and can be confusing. Stick to the info in the video and you'll be good.. And never force anything!
Hey, thank you for this tutorial, it helps me a lot! One important question remaind though: how much pressure would be applied if there is no torque wrench at hand. I would approach 25 Nm somehow safely. Do you agree with chatgpt about this idea? "2. Finger-Tight and Then Partial Turns Tighten the thru-axle finger-tight (as tight as you can comfortably turn with just your fingers). Then, apply 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn more using a wrench. This usually brings you in the range close to 20-25 Nm for a rear thru-axle. Go very slowly and check the tightness frequently." Thank you for your time and support! Cheers from Budapest, Hungary
Mi GT Zaskar comp has a weird washer between the hub and the dropout. A 6mm Allen doesn’t fit the “hole” in the axle either. Website says it is 12x148. How can I remove it?
Very clear video thanks! I was hoping to hear some torque specs for the rear through axel/hub when putting it back on. Anyone know the Nm for a Specialized Fuse 27.5"? Update: I found a manual online that said 15 Nm. I found on Google an answer typically 12-15 Nm, never more than that.
You can reengage after you tighten the axle up. They aren't a crucial component. You can run the bike with it on or off. Personal preference based on setup and chain slap!
My thru axle has hex bolts from both sides. I’d like to secure the axle by inserting Hexlox. Do I need to secure it from both sides? Or can it be opened only from the disc rotor’s side? Thank you!
It's usually on the end of the axle.. It should be printed in nm or inch lbs. If not, just do 12 to 15 Nm (Newton meters) which is basically hand tight. Don't over crank it.
The recommended torque for my bike is 15 nm. However, I'm not tremendously strong. I asked the LBS about this. They said tighten it only to the point you know you can take it off out on the ride.
It's a Salsa Cutthroat. It's a gravel bike on Steroids. I got it because you can run 2.4" mtn bike tires on it. Tons of clearance and super comfortable. The gravel/silt up here in mammoth is super deep and running your standard 40-50mm wide gravel tires still isn't quite enough. I'll do a video on the bike soon for ya..
@@greggarcia7324 No suspension... 2.35 tires with xc cushcore inserts... running 16 psi front and 17 psi rear... fox 70mm dropper post (which is amazing to have on descents) and a redshift stem and enve gravel bars.. so that's the setup for absorbing shock/vibrations... It's the perfect bike for up here on fire roads and single track. I don't ride it on pavement, although with another set of wheels/tires, it wouldn't be an issue.
Nicely done video, but doesn't address a problem I encountered. After removing the thru axle, my wheel won't just "drop out", rather there is a considerable amount of friction between the wheel and the dropouts. After a while of fighting with it I got it out by gently bending the chainstay outwards, giving the wheel enough room to come out.
@@ominousplatypus380 sounds like a bent chainstay was your problem... I'd definitely have it checked to make sure it's aligned correctly..otherwise could have some shifting issues. This video only covers removing the wheel when nothing else is wrong: a bent chainstay, a bent axle etc.
Great video - fyi you missed a step at the end by not re-engaging the derailleur clutch. Also cringed at some point when you touched the brake rotor with your hand - I have heard that is best not to do... Curious if there are any issues with having a bike with hydraulic brakes upside down to take off the wheels. Thanks
Jim, you don't need to engage the clutch to ride. I often leave it off on my gravel bike. As you can see, the bike shifts just fine without it. Before they existed, everyone's derailleurs worked just fine without one on the bike or engaged for that matter. Touching a brake rotor does nothing to the rotor or braking performance. You don't want to spray them with chain lube, but touching doesn't do a thing. Also flipping your bike upside down is harmless. Just pump your brakes a few times. I recommend most mtn bikers leave their bikes upside down to get oil on the important parts of your fork stanchions and seals which are usually neglected due to gravity.
I noticed you pull the derailleur lever out on the very first wheel removal? However, you don't seem to do it from all the other angles. Is it necessary to pull the lever? Also, does it need to be moved back when the wheel is reinstalled? Thanks
There's one problem with my Specialized Diverge. With the axle removed from the rear, the dropouts spread out a few mm, making it difficult to reinstall the rear wheel back properly in the dropouts. They easily miss the stops of the dropouts and end up rubbing against the stays on both sides to the point of scratching the paint badly. Fortunately, the frame is aluminum. When not using the repair stand, it is always a precarious process to make sure the wheel is in the dropouts before removing the hand holding the bike to insert the thru axle. I've watched so many videos, and I've noticed everyone has no problem with this. I'm wondering if build tolerances are too large, and I have one right on the edge of too wide. Any thoughts on this and ideas to ease this process would be appreciated.
So there's a possibility that you have the wrong width hub on your rear wheel. If you flip the bike upside down, it's wayy easier to manipulate and drop the wheel in.. You don't need as many hands and you can see more.
My rear thru axle doesn't thread when the wheel is on. But it threads fine without the wheel. What's the reason for this? The hub looks perfectly aligned. Should I push the rod in more to hear a pop like you did?
I searched out this video because i just removed the rear wheel from my Cutty and it got all bound up to hell. I haven't put it back on yet, but if my derailleur and rotor are straight I'll be surprised. I did exactly what our host here did, but when the wheel came down the chain wanted to stick in the cog and shit got weird. Aaaanyway, glad to see I wasn't being a complete idiot, but seriously confused as to why it was such a bear. (I'm guessing I didn't pull the deraileur back far enough)
Sounds like your chain was either kinked or had a stiff link. If your chain doesn't behave you may have to guide it with your hand as things don't always go to plan or behave like it did in the video!
@@TheMarkList Thanks for the reply -- I took the wheel off again yesterday and it was a bear getting the chain off that lowest cog again. It went better this time but not smooth. Next time I think I'll try the next to smallest cog to see if that takes some lateral pressure off the chain.
What kind of axle does your bike currently have?
@stratdelux09 If you google "thru axle" it comes up both ways.. with a hyphen and without.. so I just did it without. As long as people can find the video and get the help they need!
This was probably the best instruction of this i;ve seen. Very comprehensive. Thank you.
Thanks for the kind words! And you're welcome!
Was cursing at various problems doing this, and who knew there was a clutch on the derailleur? Makes the job a WHOLE lot easier - many thanks for the tutorial.
@@philclennell You're welcome!
Thank you for the post.... i figured I couldn't be that dumb that I couldn't get the wheel back on the bike. I'm still debating on the dumb part but after watching the video, i was able to put the wheel back on in minutes. My problem.... i didn't set the chain to the smallest gear. I really appreciate you saving me $50 and the humiliation of having to take it to a bike shop or ask a neighbor. My wife thinks i'm a man again and i feel better about myself. Liked and Subscribed
This is up for comment of the year!! you made me laugh... your man card status is back again!
I was not even half way watching this video, when I had to hit the LIKE & SUBSCRIBE button. Loved the thoroughness of this video.
Mark really though of every angle for the beginner Cyclists, like me.
Excellent video and presentation Mark. Loved it. Regards from CA
Thank you so much for the kind words and hitting the subscribe button!! I apologize for not replying sooner, so sorry for that! Let me know if you need help with anything else.
ditto!!! thank you!!!
Great video, I never had issues changing tires with dropouts but bikes with thru axel and disc brakes I’m so lost. For me turning the bike over makes it a lot easier.
I totally agree on flipping it over!
Have been looking for a thorough simple explanation for newbs on this exact thing. Thank you for showing both drive & non-drive sides! Subscribed.
You're welcome! I figured showing both sides would give the best perspective to someone tyring for the first time!
Thanks for the clear explanation on removal/re-install with these thru axles. First time I worked on one of these and your fine point details finally got the job done after struggling for well over an hour just trying to get the wheel off. For the normal recreational rider, my opinion on this is these thru axles are way to complicated for the few times one would have to remove the wheels and then re-install them. But, thanks again for the excellent video and help.
@@bikeme1969 glad I could help! And yes, they can absolutely be frustrating!
Thanks very much for these instructions! That is exactly what I needed, with the bicycle upside down, since I don't have a work stand. The tip to remove the quick-release axle helped a lot. Most videos that I have found show the R & R right-side up.
Any time! Let me know if you have any other questions!
awesome how to video thanks lad! love the clear camera angles as well
@@LuckySpiritos your very welcome! Glad it helped
Thank you. Just what I needed to know for my mountain bike. Now I have confidence I can do it. Great video!
Thanks for the compliment! Glad I could help! Let me know if you need help with anything else.
No nonsense, excellent post. Good explanation, well presented, calm, non-condescending, good tonality, and informative; what a great video, what more could you ask? well done!
Thank you for your kind words! Glad I could help!
This has to be the best wheel removal video on TH-cam. Thank you, now I’m confident I can do mine.
You're very welcome! So glad I could help and thank you for the compliment!
Thank you for the very detailed but simple video. Just purchased a new e-mtb and I want to put Slime inner tubes and RhinoDillos tire liners in the tires. I'm pretty good and confident in my abilities with bicycle maintenance. But I would have missed the part about unlocking the clutch on the derailleur. Thank you again. You are very thorough and very professional without a lot of fluff.
Happy to help! Enjoy your new ebike!
You are the Real MVP, thank you!
You're welcome! Happy to help :)
Hi Mark! Doing an ironman as well soon and just switched from a quick release bike (Trek Emonda SL 5) to a thru axel bike (Canyon Aeroad CF SLX Disc eTap). I tried to put my bike on my Wahoo Kickr (direct trainer), but noticed it needs a different part to fit on it. When I tried to put the back wheel back into place, I was struggling because I was trying to do it the same way as my quick release bike. Then I found your video, and the part where you say you bring the derailleur towards you really helped me. It was an amazing moment because I realized how easy it was when you have the right technique! Thanks again and cheers!
It's funny how a little technique makes all the difference! Glad it helped!
Thanks a lot. Very clear filming and instructions ❤
@@jonfrance7201 You're welcome! Let me know if you need help with anything else!
Good video , this is what we need simple but comprehensive guide on how to remove the rear wheel thank you 😀😀
Your welcome! Got more comprehensive videos in the making. Let me know if you need help with anything else.
Will do Mark , thanks and take care🙂🙂@@TheMarkList
What a great demonstration thank you so much. I just bought a new bike with disk brakes and will have to get used to removing my rear wheel and installing it. I used to ride a rim brake touring bike so this all new to me. A great video thank you so much.
Michael
You're welcome! Glad it helped :)
Thanks for the awesome, thorough video on how to remove the rear wheel from every which way!
You're welcome! I hope it helped :)
Great video! I never had a through axel without a quick release...my new stumpy has through axels and this really helped..thx!!
You're very welcome!
Hi Mark. I'm training for an Ironman and was having problems getting my bike on and off the direct drive trainer. This is the best of all the videos. I think doing it upside down has cracked it for me. I also didn't notice the dropouts on my frame as it's through axel and i am used to them on a quick release. they are basically upside down on the through axel. Really helpful thanks!
Glad I could help! I am always flipping my bike upside down to work on it. I find it's way easier than being up on a stand. When is your Ironman?
@@TheMarkList July 23. I'm filing it on my channel. 🙂
Great video, straight to the point with no waffle waffle.👍
@@andrewheale4738 thanks for the kind words!
Thanks! Simple clear and concise!!
You're welcome!
Very detailed and helpful. Thank you!
@@zoelane3181 you're welcome!
Thank you, that is a very detailed video
@@revar-developer you are very welcome! Glad I could help!
cool tutorial ... great to see various perspectives as well.
@@FLG8r thanks for the compliment!
It was very helpful and remarkable for me.
@@JuesCharanNarjinary happy to help!
I was trying to open the wheel axle from the opposite site, making a blunder mistake. Thanks for this video.
Glad it helped! Sometimes the axle will have a Allen type socket at each end...and can be confusing. Stick to the info in the video and you'll be good.. And never force anything!
Thank you for this video!!
@@ohjoyny1 You're very welcome!
Hey, thank you for this tutorial, it helps me a lot! One important question remaind though: how much pressure would be applied if there is no torque wrench at hand. I would approach 25 Nm somehow safely. Do you agree with chatgpt about this idea?
"2. Finger-Tight and Then Partial Turns
Tighten the thru-axle finger-tight (as tight as you can comfortably turn with just your fingers).
Then, apply 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn more using a wrench. This usually brings you in the range close to 20-25 Nm for a rear thru-axle. Go very slowly and check the tightness frequently."
Thank you for your time and support! Cheers from Budapest, Hungary
@@probalint just tighten till snug. Don't over torque it. Usually 12 to 15nm
Great video!
Thank you!
You sir is a hero.
Glad to be of service! Have a great weekend!
Thank you, ver usefull tutorial and advise
@@rozlanredzuan2341 you're welcome! Glad to hear I could help..
Mi GT Zaskar comp has a weird washer between the hub and the dropout. A 6mm Allen doesn’t fit the “hole” in the axle either. Website says it is 12x148. How can I remove it?
very informative! thank you
You're welcome!
well explained video ...thanks a lot
Any time.. And thanks for the compliment!
Hub sounds nice
Yeah those are Chris King top of the line mtn bike hubs.. They're pretty sweet!
Very clear video thanks! I was hoping to hear some torque specs for the rear through axel/hub when putting it back on. Anyone know the Nm for a Specialized Fuse 27.5"?
Update: I found a manual online that said 15 Nm. I found on Google an answer typically 12-15 Nm, never more than that.
@@gabriela7x917 yeah 15nm is pretty standard. Also, just hand snug works too...some people way over tighten which is not good! Happy to help!
@@TheMarkList cool, thank you so much!
@@gabriela7x917 you're welcome!
Very nice video. You mention disengaging the clutch at the beginning. But never mention the clutch again. Or did it go over my head?
You can reengage after you tighten the axle up. They aren't a crucial component. You can run the bike with it on or off. Personal preference based on setup and chain slap!
My thru axle has hex bolts from both sides. I’d like to secure the axle by inserting Hexlox. Do I need to secure it from both sides? Or can it be opened only from the disc rotor’s side? Thank you!
I'd hit up hexlox and see what they recommend with their system. I've never used them and wouldn't want to give you the wrong advice!
Thanks man
@@ClawHammer23 any time!
Thank you brother
You're welcome!
Thanks!! Is there any specific torque on the axle that’s generally recommended?
It's usually on the end of the axle.. It should be printed in nm or inch lbs. If not, just do 12 to 15 Nm (Newton meters) which is basically hand tight. Don't over crank it.
The recommended torque for my bike is 15 nm. However, I'm not tremendously strong. I asked the LBS about this. They said tighten it only to the point you know you can take it off out on the ride.
@@gnatman1102 just hand snug it down. Don't go nuts on it.
Awesome video. What brand of gravel bike is that? Do you recommend it?
It's a Salsa Cutthroat. It's a gravel bike on Steroids. I got it because you can run 2.4" mtn bike tires on it. Tons of clearance and super comfortable. The gravel/silt up here in mammoth is super deep and running your standard 40-50mm wide gravel tires still isn't quite enough. I'll do a video on the bike soon for ya..
@@TheMarkList Please do. I go to Mammoth a lot in the summer. Does your Salsa have any suspension? I'm considering the Niner MCR or the Canyon Grizl.
@@greggarcia7324 No suspension... 2.35 tires with xc cushcore inserts... running 16 psi front and 17 psi rear... fox 70mm dropper post (which is amazing to have on descents) and a redshift stem and enve gravel bars.. so that's the setup for absorbing shock/vibrations... It's the perfect bike for up here on fire roads and single track. I don't ride it on pavement, although with another set of wheels/tires, it wouldn't be an issue.
Nicely done video, but doesn't address a problem I encountered. After removing the thru axle, my wheel won't just "drop out", rather there is a considerable amount of friction between the wheel and the dropouts. After a while of fighting with it I got it out by gently bending the chainstay outwards, giving the wheel enough room to come out.
@@ominousplatypus380 sounds like a bent chainstay was your problem... I'd definitely have it checked to make sure it's aligned correctly..otherwise could have some shifting issues. This video only covers removing the wheel when nothing else is wrong: a bent chainstay, a bent axle etc.
Great video - fyi you missed a step at the end by not re-engaging the derailleur clutch. Also cringed at some point when you touched the brake rotor with your hand - I have heard that is best not to do... Curious if there are any issues with having a bike with hydraulic brakes upside down to take off the wheels. Thanks
Jim, you don't need to engage the clutch to ride. I often leave it off on my gravel bike. As you can see, the bike shifts just fine without it. Before they existed, everyone's derailleurs worked just fine without one on the bike or engaged for that matter. Touching a brake rotor does nothing to the rotor or braking performance. You don't want to spray them with chain lube, but touching doesn't do a thing. Also flipping your bike upside down is harmless. Just pump your brakes a few times. I recommend most mtn bikers leave their bikes upside down to get oil on the important parts of your fork stanchions and seals which are usually neglected due to gravity.
@@TheMarkList Thanks for the quick reply & information. I look forward to watching some of your other videos.
You're welcome! Any time!
I noticed you pull the derailleur lever out on the very first wheel removal? However, you don't seem to do it from all the other angles. Is it necessary to pull the lever? Also, does it need to be moved back when the wheel is reinstalled? Thanks
The clutch lever? It should be disengaged to make manipulating the derailleur easier.
Correct, does it need to be reengaged when finished?
It doesn't have to be... But if on bumpy terrain I'd engage it. It's an added feature
Thank you
You're welcome! Any time
Wow even I could do it :)
There's one problem with my Specialized Diverge. With the axle removed from the rear, the dropouts spread out a few mm, making it difficult to reinstall the rear wheel back properly in the dropouts. They easily miss the stops of the dropouts and end up rubbing against the stays on both sides to the point of scratching the paint badly. Fortunately, the frame is aluminum. When not using the repair stand, it is always a precarious process to make sure the wheel is in the dropouts before removing the hand holding the bike to insert the thru axle. I've watched so many videos, and I've noticed everyone has no problem with this. I'm wondering if build tolerances are too large, and I have one right on the edge of too wide. Any thoughts on this and ideas to ease this process would be appreciated.
So there's a possibility that you have the wrong width hub on your rear wheel. If you flip the bike upside down, it's wayy easier to manipulate and drop the wheel in.. You don't need as many hands and you can see more.
My rear thru axle doesn't thread when the wheel is on. But it threads fine without the wheel. What's the reason for this? The hub looks perfectly aligned. Should I push the rod in more to hear a pop like you did?
My first instinct is that it's slightly off and not perfectly aligned. Move the wheel a little to see if you can get it to slide in all the way
Anyone know What’s the rule for carbon frames. Is it any nuts and bolts connecting to the frame need to be torqued?
@@shahedsaffari365 looking for torque specs for the through axle? It'd usually on the axle
@@shahedsaffari365 it's usually between 8nm and 11nm.. Depending on the manufacturer.. Some go up to 15Nm
@@TheMarkList great thanks a lot!
Thanks!
Any time!
You're not fooling anyone Linus from LTT
I'll take the compliment! I had to look him up to see who you were talking about :)
I had a hard time ,, so I just cut the chain with bolt cutters and zip cut the derailier off.
Yikes! That's one way to do it!
I searched out this video because i just removed the rear wheel from my Cutty and it got all bound up to hell. I haven't put it back on yet, but if my derailleur and rotor are straight I'll be surprised. I did exactly what our host here did, but when the wheel came down the chain wanted to stick in the cog and shit got weird. Aaaanyway, glad to see I wasn't being a complete idiot, but seriously confused as to why it was such a bear. (I'm guessing I didn't pull the deraileur back far enough)
Sounds like your chain was either kinked or had a stiff link. If your chain doesn't behave you may have to guide it with your hand as things don't always go to plan or behave like it did in the video!
Also, go slow and don't force anything.. I know it can be quite frustrating at times!
@@TheMarkList Thanks for the reply -- I took the wheel off again yesterday and it was a bear getting the chain off that lowest cog again. It went better this time but not smooth. Next time I think I'll try the next to smallest cog to see if that takes some lateral pressure off the chain.