Thanks for making those tutorial videos. I just got myself a 2017 KTM Super Adventure R and need to do some work. I want to install new tires myself including a new chain. To do as much as possible yourself is really the only way to get to know the Beast. And one never knows where the Beast brakes down. Thanks again.
Thanks for these lessons! I just got my very own 2018, 1090 and I love it! With your tutorials I get to have fun in the garage as well. I owe you lunch and a beer
Hi thank you for your series of maintenance videos, very helpful indeed. Can I add the fact that chains wear at an uneven rate due to various variables not least handfuls of heavy acceleration. Due to uneven wear and stretching you should rotate the wheel slowly and keep choking the amount of slack at close intervals to locate the chain tight spot ie less slack and adjust your chain tension at this Point, otherwise you could end up having it too tight which can also damage your gearbox and rear wheel bearings. Thks
Your measurement will seem tight where you measured your chain, you measured to far forward, the measurement on your bike should be taken at about the same point as the front of the rear rim, had you measured it there, your motorcycle would've been within the specification. Any question where exactly to take the measurement, the diagram on the swing arm show's you. Be safe!
I also went from an FJR to a 1290 SA (2015). When I first picked up the 1290, I was a little confused by the chain section of the owner's manual so I talked with the factory mechanic at the local dealer. He confirmed what I was seeing in the manual - measurement should be from bottom of swingarm to TOP of chain when pushed up. Second measurement should be from bottom of swingarm to BOTTOM of chain when pushed down. then we are looking for 40-45mm of slack between those two measurements. Have you heard otherwise? It would make about a 10mm difference in the slack. Good videos!
You can't take measurements from 2 different points on the chain; it defeats the purpose. Doesn't matter if you pick the top or bottom of the chain but pick one and then measure the difference from the bottom of the swingarm with the chain pushed up and the bottom the swingarm with the chain pulled down. If you use the tool, it's pretty much foolproof.
Hi Mario. Ok. I picked up a slack Setter to use on my KTM 1290 SA After I watched your video, worked like a charm! Thanks for the videos, they help a lot. And your videos also helped me pick the KTM after months of research and looking. 👍🏻 Awesome bike! Thanks again for your time on the channel! 😎.
Gary happy to hear you like the tool! I've got 2 of them (one in the garage and one under the seat) and love them. Happier to hear you're enjoying you bike tho! Thanks for taking the time to comment. Plan to have some more 1290 maintenance/how-to videos on the channel soon.
great job, that does look like a handy tool, of course my bike is belt driven but I enjoyed gaining some knowledge anyways and it's nice to know this video is here if I ever need it. take care buddy!
You never know...you might end up with a dirt bike one day. As for belts, many have auto-tensioners so less maintenance is required but when it comes to replacing a belt, it's a major pain.
I need to check out their alignment tool next. Those guys make a lot of great motorcycle-specific tools to make getting the job done more efficient and easier.
Yep I've had mine since 2010 or 2011. A bike i had the alignment marks on the bike were off. So i always use the Alignment Tool to be safe and its so easy to use....flic.kr/p/cKBW6u
Let me know if I can be of support in any way and would like to say hi when you're in town. Highway 20 is one of my favorite rides between Winthrop and Port Townsend; includes a ferry ride! Ferrys are super MC friendly. Riders always get first on, first off privileges.
Looking at the manual it shows the measurement to be from the bottom of the swingarm to the bottom of the chain with the chain pulled tight while bike is in neutral on the center stand as the chain is touching the swingarm. After setting the lower chain to bottom of swingarm to 40mm check again to see if the chain still touches the swingarm. If it doesn't then it will need to be loosened and check again to set to 40mm from top of chain.
I agree. The manual and the sticker on the swingarm do not seem to agree. I just adjust mine so that it just touches the bottom of the swingarm. Seems to be fine.
Buenos días, no hablo inglés, pero es muy claro tu video. Es mi primer KTM y miro cada video qué haces. Me es de mucha ayuda. Gracias. Saludos desde Argentina!!
You can get a tool to check the belt tension but if you grab the belt 1.5" behind the primary underneath and twist it with bike in neutral, it should twist 45 degrees before it gets tight. That is about as close as you can get without the tension measurement tool.
Hey Mario, I was looking around your channel to see if you had any issues with out of whack speedos on your 1290? Mine is off by about 5-10% and not sure what can be done.
@2 Wheeled Rider interesting thanks for getting back to me. It's definitely an annoying prospect in the more sherrifed areas when you'd like to let the engine roar. Anyways stay safe in your travels man, and as always thanks for your maintenance vids, have helped guys like me immensely.
I haven't on my 1290. Noah's 85 has been a little hard to find neutral at times but seems to be getting better now that he's got a few more hours on it.
Really enjoying your videos, in fact your bike and feedback inspired me to choose a 1290 SAS over a GS when I changed my bike last month! Didn't get a tool kit with the bike so am collecting stuff as I go along, is the rear wheel nut on the SA an M25x1.5 too, if so what size socket do I need to get?
Thanks Al! Much appreciated. To answer you question the rear wheel nut (and I believe the front as well) is a 32mm. And I think the torque spec on the rear is 66 lb ft (off the top of my head)
Hi Mario. Thanks for this videos. Question I see you take the measure like in the center. I see in the sticker that ktm puts on arm has some arrows more close to the rim for the measure. Is there any different to take the measure in the center as you do than close to the rim as ktm manual picture indicates? Thanks
Awesome video, as always :) It'd be great to see how you lube your chain, as I struggle to do it properly on my 2018 1290 SADV-S. There's no physical space to lube it on the inside.
Do you adjust the valves yourself, and at what intervals, how much work does it involve ? Cool videos, i drive a Moto Guzzi now, but like the KTM, i do 12000 miles a year so a bit aprehensive about changing to chain drive, what are your thoughts.
I haven't had to adjust them on this bike yet though I just checked the clearance a few weeks ago and doubt I'll have to until about 50,000 miles. It's not really that difficult to adjust them though; just takes a little time. Though my garage is full of chain drive bikes, I switched from an FJR1300 shaft drive (my touring bike) to the KTM and I've likely spent less then 20 more minutes taking care of the chain in nearly 18,000 miles (little over a year) of riding than I did changing drive shaft oil in the Yamaha.
Last trip my chain had 4,400 miles when I left. After three days I stopped oiling it, stopped cleaning it unless I washed the bike. Worked fine for the remaining 14,000 miles of the trip. Chain seemed okay but doing the 30,000 km service I changed the chain and sprockets.
Great video sir, thank you. I couldn't throw any $ your way for the SlackSetter, but you definitely got anew sub out of me. Take care, and thanks for sharing.
Great videos ( not only that one)! Congrats! If possible, clear me a doubt: Does your top case go directly attached on the original bracket or you need some kind of special base to support it?
I need to be pulled from the deep end, bro. Ever since I purchased this '18 1290 sas, I have gotten more and more obsessed with this chain business. Why is the spec so loose? I dont like the lag on accel/decel. Can I be at, say, 38 mm if am only running on the street, and looser off road? That makes sense to me due to the added travel of off road use. Does this hold logic? 40-45mm seems loose as s****. I can't seem to come to terms with it. I would be grateful for your advice/knowledge. Thanks!
Good question...I'm actually a little surprised the S model has the same slack adjustment given it's street bias. First, make sure you're measuring from the correct place. I'm a little off in the video since I was just trying to show how to use the tool in general. You should be checking the tension at the front part of the rim. Then spin it 1/4 turn and check it again. To further answer your question, a loose chain only really has 2 downsides 1) it can fly off (Noah had that happen on Sunday) 2) drive line lash. A tight chain has 4 downsides 1) wears out sprockets/chain faster 2) limit suspension travel 3) more prone to break 4) can wear out transmission components. So you can see why manufacturers error on the loose side. Can you tighten it up to 38mm? Sure. We're only talking about a 1/16 of an inch. Remember, the manual is providing you with essentially a recommendation, much like the tire pressure. Whatever slack you set it at make sure it's tight enough to stay on but not too tight to inhibit the movement of the swingarm.
Hi I have 1190 Adv 2016 the manual says to put the bike on side stand not center stand for chain tension adjustment. Your chain looks very loosed this may give you very noisy ride. I have done this on center stand before and it does not work well. Did it on side stand last week week very tite 40mm and it works great - the drive and gear box. Pleasure to ride. Kind regards. Tom
What market are you in? I only ask because the US market 1190 A advises to use the center stand but as I've seen from the past, different markets have different options etc.
Pleasure. I did it on center stand before as it is more natural but then I have noticed this remark in the manual also the chain was banging noisily at times. Now is perfect but I am gona look at it again tomorrow.
Does look that way up on the center stand. Once it's back down on the side stand or just with the suspension under compression it "looks" right. Most street bikes are 30-35mm slack so 40-45mm is more than most.
@@2WR thanks! Do you use the same point of reference on the chain for the upper and lower measurements? ie the top of the chain in both positions or perhaps the pins. I came from an FJR to a SA-S and never really needed to worry about chain maintenance.
Mario, what do you carry with wrench wise if chain adjustment is necessary while on a trip? I cannot imagine you would have a full size torque wrench with you. Loaner tools I suppose if travelling in populated areas. I have the socket for the axle nut that I keep in my top case but a proper wrench is a different matter. BTW, I am pretty certain my chain is slightly on the tight side as well, however my dealer said it was fine so I am deferring to their expertise for the time being.
1) I think mine has always been about 5mm tight but I loosened it back up to the proper amount to see how it does (1,400 miles in and still good). 2) You're right. I carry the sprocket under the seat and then Advance or similar will loan you out a torque wrench for free (assuming you put down the deposit). I'll have to figure something out for Alaska next year but even at 6,100 miles before changing the rear tire, the chain was still in spec.
what a shame you cut out just when you had to actually move the wheel. How do you do that do you act on the screw or move the wheel by hand and check the marking afterward?
Are you talking about aligning the rear wheel or just installing it? If just installing it, get your spacers in, get the disc in the caliper and then align the wheel as best as possible to get the axle started into the wheel; from there just check the opening on the other side and get it aligned. 4 outta 5 times I have no issue getting it on; only takes a few seconds. 1 outta 5 times I have to walk away for a few minutes.
1) make sure you are taking the measurement in the same exact place each time. 2) if you keep getting different measurements, it may be time for a new chain because you likely have some stretched links.
Your videos are less than helpful. Most of the time you never actually show doing the work. You pointed stuff in say I'm going to take this off or I'm going to put that on and then you cut to the part already removed. I've found so many times where you've left out information about what it really takes to get a certain part on or off. This video is the same you point to already loosened nuts and an already adjusted chain. Pointless.
Thanks for making those tutorial videos. I just got myself a 2017 KTM Super Adventure R and need to do some work. I want to install new tires myself including a new chain. To do as much as possible yourself is really the only way to get to know the Beast. And one never knows where the Beast brakes down. Thanks again.
Thanks for these lessons! I just got my very own 2018, 1090 and I love it! With your tutorials I get to have fun in the garage as well. I owe you lunch and a beer
Hi thank you for your series of maintenance videos, very helpful indeed. Can I add the fact that chains wear at an uneven rate due to various variables not least handfuls of heavy acceleration. Due to uneven wear and stretching you should rotate the wheel slowly and keep choking the amount of slack at close intervals to locate the chain tight spot ie less slack and adjust your chain tension at this
Point, otherwise you could end up having it too tight which can also damage your gearbox and rear wheel bearings. Thks
Your measurement will seem tight where you measured your chain, you measured to far forward, the measurement on your bike should be taken at about the same point as the front of the rear rim, had you measured it there, your motorcycle would've been within the specification. Any question where exactly to take the measurement, the diagram on the swing arm show's you. Be safe!
Yeah, I thought that chain didn't look too tight.
I also went from an FJR to a 1290 SA (2015). When I first picked up the 1290, I was a little confused by the chain section of the owner's manual so I talked with the factory mechanic at the local dealer. He confirmed what I was seeing in the manual - measurement should be from bottom of swingarm to TOP of chain when pushed up. Second measurement should be from bottom of swingarm to BOTTOM of chain when pushed down. then we are looking for 40-45mm of slack between those two measurements. Have you heard otherwise? It would make about a 10mm difference in the slack. Good videos!
You can't take measurements from 2 different points on the chain; it defeats the purpose. Doesn't matter if you pick the top or bottom of the chain but pick one and then measure the difference from the bottom of the swingarm with the chain pushed up and the bottom the swingarm with the chain pulled down. If you use the tool, it's pretty much foolproof.
Excellent Inspect & Adjust motorcycle chain video. Great tip with the rag, thanks for sharing, and you all be safe on your trip.
Thanks Gus. Much appreciated.
Hi Mario. Ok. I picked up a slack Setter to use on my KTM 1290 SA After I watched your video, worked like a charm! Thanks for the videos, they help a lot. And your videos also helped me pick the KTM after months of research and looking. 👍🏻 Awesome bike! Thanks again for your time on the channel! 😎.
Gary happy to hear you like the tool! I've got 2 of them (one in the garage and one under the seat) and love them. Happier to hear you're enjoying you bike tho! Thanks for taking the time to comment. Plan to have some more 1290 maintenance/how-to videos on the channel soon.
Great stuff. Just bought a '17' 1290T and it is awesome!! Will be watching for more tips & rides, thanks.
Thanks John and congrats on the new bike!
Well I explained. It looks pretty simple. Best regards from Germany, Martin.
great job, that does look like a handy tool, of course my bike is belt driven but I enjoyed gaining some knowledge anyways and it's nice to know this video is here if I ever need it. take care buddy!
Thanks Drew!
Don't have a chain but always good to learn! They have similar tool for belts?.... be safe buddy, have a great trip!! ✌️
You never know...you might end up with a dirt bike one day. As for belts, many have auto-tensioners so less maintenance is required but when it comes to replacing a belt, it's a major pain.
Well done. Have been looking at the MotionPro Slack Setter to go along with their Alignment Tool...
I need to check out their alignment tool next. Those guys make a lot of great motorcycle-specific tools to make getting the job done more efficient and easier.
Yep I've had mine since 2010 or 2011. A bike i had the alignment marks on the bike were off. So i always use the Alignment Tool to be safe and its so easy to use....flic.kr/p/cKBW6u
Let me know if I can be of support in any way and would like to say hi when you're in town. Highway 20 is one of my favorite rides between Winthrop and Port Townsend; includes a ferry ride! Ferrys are super MC friendly. Riders always get first on, first off privileges.
Will do John. I'll message you when I have a more precise idea of when I'll be coming through your area.
Looking at the manual it shows the measurement to be from the bottom of the swingarm to the bottom of the chain with the chain pulled tight while bike is in neutral on the center stand as the chain is touching the swingarm. After setting the lower chain to bottom of swingarm to 40mm check again to see if the chain still touches the swingarm. If it doesn't then it will need to be loosened and check again to set to 40mm from top of chain.
I agree. The manual and the sticker on the swingarm do not seem to agree. I just adjust mine so that it just touches the bottom of the swingarm. Seems to be fine.
Anybody know how to stop the chain slap noose when going over bumps?
Buenos días, no hablo inglés, pero es muy claro tu video. Es mi primer KTM y miro cada video qué haces. Me es de mucha ayuda. Gracias. Saludos desde Argentina!!
¡Gracias por ver!
I learned something today! I wonder if the process is the same for a belt drive which I have on my Harley Fat Bob?
Not at all. Belt drive are an entirely different animal.
You can get a tool to check the belt tension but if you grab the belt 1.5" behind the primary underneath and twist it with bike in neutral, it should twist 45 degrees before it gets tight. That is about as close as you can get without the tension measurement tool.
Hey Mario, I was looking around your channel to see if you had any issues with out of whack speedos on your 1290? Mine is off by about 5-10% and not sure what can be done.
Mines not that are off but most motorcycle speedos are off a few percentage points. Some of it comes down to tire choice as well.
@2 Wheeled Rider interesting thanks for getting back to me. It's definitely an annoying prospect in the more sherrifed areas when you'd like to let the engine roar. Anyways stay safe in your travels man, and as always thanks for your maintenance vids, have helped guys like me immensely.
You're heading West! I'm in Gig Harbor, Wa. Let me know if I can be of support: waterfront guest room, highlight some awesome ribbons of tarmac, etc.
John, I'm tempted to take you up on the offer. We are planning to stay in Seattle one night and I see you're not terribly far from there.
Did you ever have an issue shifting to Neutral from 1st or 2nd? I hear this is supposed to help
I haven't on my 1290. Noah's 85 has been a little hard to find neutral at times but seems to be getting better now that he's got a few more hours on it.
Really enjoying your videos, in fact your bike and feedback inspired me to choose a 1290 SAS over a GS when I changed my bike last month! Didn't get a tool kit with the bike so am collecting stuff as I go along, is the rear wheel nut on the SA an M25x1.5 too, if so what size socket do I need to get?
Thanks Al! Much appreciated. To answer you question the rear wheel nut (and I believe the front as well) is a 32mm. And I think the torque spec on the rear is 66 lb ft (off the top of my head)
@@2WR Cheers, thanks
Hi Mario. Thanks for this videos.
Question I see you take the measure like in the center.
I see in the sticker that ktm puts on arm has some arrows more close to the rim for the measure.
Is there any different to take the measure in the center as you do than close to the rim as ktm manual picture indicates?
Thanks
Measure in line with the rim on Rhys bike. Chanel appropriately when I comes to other bikes.
Hi, thanks for info, I love the same bike. Do you have a picture of where to montage vacuum for the scottoiler?
Unfortunately, I don't since I don't run a Scottoiler.
Awesome video, as always :)
It'd be great to see how you lube your chain, as I struggle to do it properly on my 2018 1290 SADV-S. There's no physical space to lube it on the inside.
Can make a note to do a video on that.
Lube it at the rear sprocket.
@@2WR do you have to Lube the chain when it's new
Do you adjust the valves yourself, and at what intervals, how much work does it involve ? Cool videos, i drive a Moto Guzzi now, but like the KTM, i do 12000 miles a year so a bit aprehensive about changing to chain drive, what are your thoughts.
I haven't had to adjust them on this bike yet though I just checked the clearance a few weeks ago and doubt I'll have to until about 50,000 miles. It's not really that difficult to adjust them though; just takes a little time. Though my garage is full of chain drive bikes, I switched from an FJR1300 shaft drive (my touring bike) to the KTM and I've likely spent less then 20 more minutes taking care of the chain in nearly 18,000 miles (little over a year) of riding than I did changing drive shaft oil in the Yamaha.
Hi there, I like youe video... how often you clean and lube your KTM 1290 chain?
Carlos, its really depends. The easiest answer is...when it starts to look dirty,
Last trip my chain had 4,400 miles when I left. After three days I stopped oiling it, stopped cleaning it unless I washed the bike.
Worked fine for the remaining 14,000 miles of the trip. Chain seemed okay but doing the 30,000 km service I changed the chain and sprockets.
I agree, you should be affiliated so when i just ordered it, you got a few bucks!
Thanks Ryan.
Great video sir, thank you. I couldn't throw any $ your way for the SlackSetter, but you definitely got anew sub out of me. Take care, and thanks for sharing.
Thanks my friend! Appreciate the sub!
Good video, I use a screwdriver instead of a rag in the field, easier to remove.
Screwdriver or a small wrench will also work.
Bought one, makes for quick easy measurement.
Think I have 2 or 3 of them. Saves time, takes up little space and eliminates guesswork.
Buenas noches, que marca es lo que usas para medir la holgura de la cadena? Gracias
Motion Pro
I'm trying to adjust the chain on my KTM Duke 890R but it has a diffrent way off measure it.
Can’t remember seeing that way of measuring before (just looked it up in the 890 manual).
How much torque did you use?
On this specific bike it’s 66 ft/lb
torque spec on axle nut?? be nice to know here thanks!
90 NM
2 Wheeled Rider 66lbs 👍
How manny torq je put on the axlenut? Gr from Holland !!!
On this specific bike (and likely all the current KTM ADV bikes) it's 90NM (66 lb/ft)
Great videos ( not only that one)! Congrats! If possible, clear me a doubt: Does your top case go directly attached on the original bracket or you need some kind of special base to support it?
For the 1290, no addition support/mounting kit is needed for that top case.
Thanks! Do you know if that goes for the 1190s as well?
I believe so.
I need to be pulled from the deep end, bro. Ever since I purchased this '18 1290 sas, I have gotten more and more obsessed with this chain business. Why is the spec so loose? I dont like the lag on accel/decel. Can I be at, say, 38 mm if am only running on the street, and looser off road? That makes sense to me due to the added travel of off road use. Does this hold logic? 40-45mm seems loose as s****. I can't seem to come to terms with it. I would be grateful for your advice/knowledge. Thanks!
Good question...I'm actually a little surprised the S model has the same slack adjustment given it's street bias. First, make sure you're measuring from the correct place. I'm a little off in the video since I was just trying to show how to use the tool in general. You should be checking the tension at the front part of the rim. Then spin it 1/4 turn and check it again. To further answer your question, a loose chain only really has 2 downsides 1) it can fly off (Noah had that happen on Sunday) 2) drive line lash. A tight chain has 4 downsides 1) wears out sprockets/chain faster 2) limit suspension travel 3) more prone to break 4) can wear out transmission components. So you can see why manufacturers error on the loose side. Can you tighten it up to 38mm? Sure. We're only talking about a 1/16 of an inch. Remember, the manual is providing you with essentially a recommendation, much like the tire pressure. Whatever slack you set it at make sure it's tight enough to stay on but not too tight to inhibit the movement of the swingarm.
Hi I have 1190 Adv 2016 the manual says to put the bike on side stand not center stand for chain tension adjustment. Your chain looks very loosed this may give you very noisy ride. I have done this on center stand before and it does not work well. Did it on side stand last week week very tite 40mm and it works great - the drive and gear box. Pleasure to ride. Kind regards. Tom
What market are you in? I only ask because the US market 1190 A advises to use the center stand but as I've seen from the past, different markets have different options etc.
2 Wheeled Rider UK market, manual p. 107 "Place the motorcycle onto the side stand". Rgs Tom
Tom Barr interesting. Thanks for replying back!
Pleasure. I did it on center stand before as it is more natural but then I have noticed this remark in the manual also the chain was banging noisily at times. Now is perfect but I am gona look at it again tomorrow.
Always adjusted my Kwak on the side stand it was a pain so now got a shaft bike.
Thank you.
Love that tool!
That's what she said!
2 Wheeled Rider 😂😂😂😂😂
On spec, my chain slaps like hell! What about yours?
No but be sure you're measuring it in the right spot. (Unlike the shot in the video) it should be in line with the front of the rear wheel.
Humm! I actually thought your chain was too loose B4 you measured it!
Does look that way up on the center stand. Once it's back down on the side stand or just with the suspension under compression it "looks" right. Most street bikes are 30-35mm slack so 40-45mm is more than most.
What size socket for the rear axle nut? Thanks
32mm
@@2WR thanks! Do you use the same point of reference on the chain for the upper and lower measurements? ie the top of the chain in both positions or perhaps the pins. I came from an FJR to a SA-S and never really needed to worry about chain maintenance.
You should really check the chain tension in a few different sections of the chain as it can vary as the chain ages.
Mario, what do you carry with wrench wise if chain adjustment is necessary while on a trip? I cannot imagine you would have a full size torque wrench with you. Loaner tools I suppose if travelling in populated areas. I have the socket for the axle nut that I keep in my top case but a proper wrench is a different matter. BTW, I am pretty certain my chain is slightly on the tight side as well, however my dealer said it was fine so I am deferring to their expertise for the time being.
1) I think mine has always been about 5mm tight but I loosened it back up to the proper amount to see how it does (1,400 miles in and still good). 2) You're right. I carry the sprocket under the seat and then Advance or similar will loan you out a torque wrench for free (assuming you put down the deposit). I'll have to figure something out for Alaska next year but even at 6,100 miles before changing the rear tire, the chain was still in spec.
Well explained. It looks pretty easy.
Best regards from Germany
Martin
what a shame you cut out just when you had to actually move the wheel. How do you do that do you act on the screw or move the wheel by hand and check the marking afterward?
Are you talking about aligning the rear wheel or just installing it? If just installing it, get your spacers in, get the disc in the caliper and then align the wheel as best as possible to get the axle started into the wheel; from there just check the opening on the other side and get it aligned. 4 outta 5 times I have no issue getting it on; only takes a few seconds. 1 outta 5 times I have to walk away for a few minutes.
@@2WR I was speaking about getting the alignment right. Do you act on the shown screws or do you hand-shift the wheel freely?
@@EliSpizzichino I just kick the back tire or use a dead blow hammer and a 2x4 to push the wheel forward
Is it just me or did I miss the torque spec?? The title says KTM 1290 super adventure so I assumed it would be mentioned
90 nm
I just bought that chain measurement tool and can’t get the same measurement twice ..
1) make sure you are taking the measurement in the same exact place each time. 2) if you keep getting different measurements, it may be time for a new chain because you likely have some stretched links.
Great!
You left out the actual chain adjustment at 2:46…. You didn’t show how you actually did that. You just show loosing then tightening the bolts. ??
Hey guys, this is a sputit.
Your videos are less than helpful.
Most of the time you never actually show doing the work. You pointed stuff in say I'm going to take this off or I'm going to put that on and then you cut to the part already removed. I've found so many times where you've left out information about what it really takes to get a certain part on or off. This video is the same you point to already loosened nuts and an already adjusted chain. Pointless.
😂😂
@@2WRyour videos are the shit Mario! Keep up the good work. Your videos are ALWAYS great tutorials!! Thank you sir.