Wax by its properties will repel water, and dirt. In the summer we have also sand, water and dirt up to 200km every wax will work (even candle wax). The rest are various mix of wax with additives.
.. apart of the fact, that I'm already on the 3rd folding peg over last 10 years. Great concept, but execution is somewhat lacking, especially for more hamfisted people like I am.
Heated socks! They are relatively inexpensive and work a treat for keeping your toes warm on long rides. I was out for 2.5 hr ride last wknd in sub-freezing temps and set my socks to 35C inside some insulated cycling boots. What a difference in comfort! Without the heated socks I find my toes getting quite cold by about the 1.5 hr mark even with very well insulated cycling boots - in part, I think, because of the build up of sweat condensation in the toes of the boots. No such problem with the socks.
I wouldn't say it doesn't work, waxing, it works but requires increased re-waxing intervals as well as rinsing and/or drying your drivetrain after each ride. Storing bike indoors helps as well.
@@seanmccuen6970 if you’ve ever worked as a service technician in a bike shop, you’d know how effective simply taking a rag to certain components (stanchions, dropper post, chain) can be to reduce wear on consumable parts.
Wind and waterproof socks in summer shoes are enough for me up to a certain temperature. Washing with the garden hose after every winter ride is a must for steel frames. The aggressive salt will otherwise destroy the frame within a few seasons...
The problem with going for a bike service, is that every time I've "done" it, the shop would take my bike for two weeks, and then when I return on the date they'd say it'd be done... they haven't done anything to the bike. Or there's the shop that just checks that all the bolts are tight. Especially when a shop is over an hour's drive away, and you only have the one bike, all it does is just make me decide to buy the stuff I need online and do it myself.
@@jeremyemilio9378 this is what I've turned to doing, but some tooling is very expensive and therefore not worth it, and some things like rebuilding a wheel/hub or bleeding hydraulic brakes are dirty/complex.
I’ve never taken my bike to a shop for a service. I do everything myself. My bike however is very basic and easy to work on. No hydraulic brakes or one piece stem and bar combo etc. So if your bike has those things, it’s probably easier said than done to do your own maintenance.
@PP-cm4re the problem is that most modern bicycles on the market these days feature integrated cockpits, proprietary headset and steerer designs, fully internal routing, and plenty more besides that. Niche brands are ultimately the ones that retain some things like standard 1 ⅛' steerer tubes, EC, IC or ZS headsets, 28mm seatposts and clamps, etc. One such brand, Lauf, ends up messing up by then having no routing for transmission, meaning their frames are only usable with wireless groupsets from SRAM and Campagnolo.
I didn't know about this Lakat studless tire. I have use the Conti Top Contact Winter II tire, which is also studless; I would only use it on the rear wheel. Studs work so much better on ice.
Early Spring goals are great motivation for the indoor trainer in Winter. My goal is being ready to ride 150k+ on the first weekend day the roads are no longer covered in snow or ice. By far, the most enjoyable rides every year.
I don't ride once it gets cold and wet so I just gently wash and wipe down my bike at the end of every outdoor riding season, address any obvious issues, and call it a day. I built up my bike using good components, take care of it, clean it, lube, maintain, fix or replace parts as needed, regularly check for potential issues and deal with them when they occur, don't try to push it beyond its capabilities, and that's basically it. Doesn't hurt that it has a Ti frame which is essentially bulletproof. But bikes are vastly simpler than say cars and need way less TLC to stay in good shape, in any season.
Regularly washing your bike is the best thing you can do, PERIOD! This is regardless of season, especially since you sweat on it whenever it's not cold. Back in my bike retail daze I was constantly dealing with bikes close-to ruined by owners who had some crazy fear of washing them, far more than those who ruined 'em with pressure washers!
i tend to wash my bikes after every ride, summer or winter but then i mainly ride off road and i live in wales so it's wet pretty much all the time, although i have just lost a derailieur due to grit getting into the cage/clutch housing bush, sanded it down until the play was ridiculous .
I live in the Desert of Southern California my concern is blowing sand and debris on the road, I do look my bike over before and after a ride and I run a waxed chain.
The 'touching tyre to remove glass' comment came from someone who, in a different video, said not to advise people to re-use quick-links....because you'd leave yourself open to legal proceedings if there was an accident as a result! lol 😁😁😁 Thanks for the video. 👍
Thanks Emily , Nic , and Jimmi , . I silicone the frame , put on Ass Savers and winter shoes , then pray it's only rain ! Snow around here changes everything . Drivers get crazier , roads get narrower , and once the stuff freezes , its not ridable to me . Be well , eh ?
Wiping tires.. I learned how to do it properly 40 years ago. Front tire is easy in front of the fork! rear tire you need to have your thumb on the frame so you dont jamb your hand in between the rear triangle. May not work so well with dropped rear triangles
I take my chain off, put my seat down so i can Flintstone on the flat, get off and push up the hills and roll down the hills, my chain is still in brans new condition
Also, I think that rust on modern bikes isn't a big issue so long as you clean and wipe off your bike whenever it gets wet or muddy and don't do something stupid like store it outside for prolonged periods, and that how you lube your drivetrain is largely irrelevant so long as you do lube it properly. Cogs and chainrings are going to get coated with wax if you wax, but that's not what protects them, no more than do dry or wet lube protect them. Their quality, what they're made of, and how well you maintain them, are what protect them. Get quality components and take care of them, and rust will simply not be an issue.
Probably duct tape. I'm guessing they tape the underside of the saddle so they're not sat on the tape lol. And yeah they're either not running mudguards or they're using the "ass saver" types that fasten to the back of the saddle and don't cover the underside of it.
These are thing i was taught on the old club runs. Glass tyre clean and the newspaper. Old skills that are being lost. Spend £10000 by a cycling plus subscription and become a cycling expert...lol
Completely wrong,oil is the best lube for a bike chain and unlike waxing it doesn't need more than a few minutes of cleaning before adding fresh oil. I've been commuting nearly 30 years on a bike. I don't even look at chain specific lubes.
Emily had it spot on for the glass in tyre check ✔️
All I could think is: "this is why women live longer".
lol
Wax by its properties will repel water, and dirt. In the summer we have also sand, water and dirt up to 200km every wax will work (even candle wax). The rest are various mix of wax with additives.
candle wax gang !
That Topeak pump that has the small thing that folds out to put your foot on are the best thing.
.. apart of the fact, that I'm already on the 3rd folding peg over last 10 years. Great concept, but execution is somewhat lacking, especially for more hamfisted people like I am.
Heated socks! They are relatively inexpensive and work a treat for keeping your toes warm on long rides. I was out for 2.5 hr ride last wknd in sub-freezing temps and set my socks to 35C inside some insulated cycling boots. What a difference in comfort! Without the heated socks I find my toes getting quite cold by about the 1.5 hr mark even with very well insulated cycling boots - in part, I think, because of the build up of sweat condensation in the toes of the boots. No such problem with the socks.
I wouldn't say it doesn't work, waxing, it works but requires increased re-waxing intervals as well as rinsing and/or drying your drivetrain after each ride.
Storing bike indoors helps as well.
A quick wipe-down after each and every ride works wonders. It also serves as a cursory inspection of the bike.
The ROI that comes with wiping down your bike every week or so (depending on ride frequency/weather) is insane.
lol, if I only 'wiped down' my bike it'd be fk'd, amirite.
@@peggz223 not as insane as you comment. 'wee, I wiped it down'! lol
@@seanmccuen6970 if you’ve ever worked as a service technician in a bike shop, you’d know how effective simply taking a rag to certain components (stanchions, dropper post, chain) can be to reduce wear on consumable parts.
Wind and waterproof socks in summer shoes are enough for me up to a certain temperature.
Washing with the garden hose after every winter ride is a must for steel frames. The aggressive salt will otherwise destroy the frame within a few seasons...
The problem with going for a bike service, is that every time I've "done" it, the shop would take my bike for two weeks, and then when I return on the date they'd say it'd be done... they haven't done anything to the bike.
Or there's the shop that just checks that all the bolts are tight.
Especially when a shop is over an hour's drive away, and you only have the one bike, all it does is just make me decide to buy the stuff I need online and do it myself.
You need to get a better bike shop. At my shop then day it's booked in for is the day we do it.
Or buy tools and learn to work on your bike as much as possible
@@jeremyemilio9378 this is what I've turned to doing, but some tooling is very expensive and therefore not worth it, and some things like rebuilding a wheel/hub or bleeding hydraulic brakes are dirty/complex.
I’ve never taken my bike to a shop for a service. I do everything myself. My bike however is very basic and easy to work on. No hydraulic brakes or one piece stem and bar combo etc. So if your bike has those things, it’s probably easier said than done to do your own maintenance.
@PP-cm4re the problem is that most modern bicycles on the market these days feature integrated cockpits, proprietary headset and steerer designs, fully internal routing, and plenty more besides that.
Niche brands are ultimately the ones that retain some things like standard 1 ⅛' steerer tubes, EC, IC or ZS headsets, 28mm seatposts and clamps, etc. One such brand, Lauf, ends up messing up by then having no routing for transmission, meaning their frames are only usable with wireless groupsets from SRAM and Campagnolo.
Good video. For winter tires 45 Nrth does a winter specific 700x40 tire called the Laktak.
I will be trying them this winter. FYI
I didn't know about this Lakat studless tire. I have use the Conti Top Contact Winter II tire, which is also studless; I would only use it on the rear wheel. Studs work so much better on ice.
Early Spring goals are great motivation for the indoor trainer in Winter. My goal is being ready to ride 150k+ on the first weekend day the roads are no longer covered in snow or ice. By far, the most enjoyable rides every year.
The tyre cleaning tip's an old one - doing that forty years ago. But then, I've always worn track mitts.
I don't ride once it gets cold and wet so I just gently wash and wipe down my bike at the end of every outdoor riding season, address any obvious issues, and call it a day. I built up my bike using good components, take care of it, clean it, lube, maintain, fix or replace parts as needed, regularly check for potential issues and deal with them when they occur, don't try to push it beyond its capabilities, and that's basically it. Doesn't hurt that it has a Ti frame which is essentially bulletproof. But bikes are vastly simpler than say cars and need way less TLC to stay in good shape, in any season.
I remember reading about rubbing the tires back in the 70s ... where? Donremembernow. But it was suggested (with gloves!) at the end of each ride.
Regularly washing your bike is the best thing you can do, PERIOD! This is regardless of season, especially since you sweat on it whenever it's not cold. Back in my bike retail daze I was constantly dealing with bikes close-to ruined by owners who had some crazy fear of washing them, far more than those who ruined 'em with pressure washers!
i tend to wash my bikes after every ride, summer or winter but then i mainly ride off road and i live in wales so it's wet pretty much all the time, although i have just lost a derailieur due to grit getting into the cage/clutch housing bush, sanded it down until the play was ridiculous .
As someone who lives in Southern California, it is always interesting to see what others must do to prepare for winter riding.
Same. Like maybe arm warmers and a vest at times? 😂
I live in the Desert of Southern California my concern is blowing sand and debris on the road, I do look my bike over before and after a ride and I run a waxed chain.
The 'touching tyre to remove glass' comment came from someone who, in a different video, said not to advise people to re-use quick-links....because you'd leave yourself open to legal proceedings if there was an accident as a result! lol 😁😁😁
Thanks for the video. 👍
Thanks Emily , Nic , and Jimmi , . I silicone the frame , put on Ass Savers and winter shoes , then pray it's only rain ! Snow around here changes everything . Drivers get crazier , roads get narrower , and once the stuff freezes , its not ridable to me . Be well , eh ?
If you don’t use dish soap, what should you use?
Wiping tires.. I learned how to do it properly 40 years ago. Front tire is easy in front of the fork! rear tire you need to have your thumb on the frame so you dont jamb your hand in between the rear triangle. May not work so well with dropped rear triangles
#6 get your zwift setup dialed:)
Where does one acquire newspaper though? Not sure an ipad or kindle would work as well
I use those envelopes that are lined with bubble wrap. The bubbles provide better insulation.
Nick, do you recommend any particular brand of bearing? 😁
look up Hambini, he's the bearing expert:)
9:15
I take a small clothespin on a ride and use it to wipe the tires when necessary.
In winter gloves do the job.
I take my chain off, put my seat down so i can Flintstone on the flat, get off and push up the hills and roll down the hills, my chain is still in brans new condition
Re shoes, those neoprene shoe covers fit nicely over skater style shoes (ie vans)
Also, I think that rust on modern bikes isn't a big issue so long as you clean and wipe off your bike whenever it gets wet or muddy and don't do something stupid like store it outside for prolonged periods, and that how you lube your drivetrain is largely irrelevant so long as you do lube it properly.
Cogs and chainrings are going to get coated with wax if you wax, but that's not what protects them, no more than do dry or wet lube protect them. Their quality, what they're made of, and how well you maintain them, are what protect them. Get quality components and take care of them, and rust will simply not be an issue.
Put it away till summer,pull out the banger
tape up a cut out part of a saddle? masking tape? so there's no rear mud guards to help protect the cut out bit of a saddle?
Probably duct tape. I'm guessing they tape the underside of the saddle so they're not sat on the tape lol. And yeah they're either not running mudguards or they're using the "ass saver" types that fasten to the back of the saddle and don't cover the underside of it.
@alex_mcclay those ass savers does it even work? Feels like you'll still get splashed on
Agree to disagree on waxing..
2:52 I thought full mudguards kept the bike clean(er) and saved the components.
I absolutely hate to have to store my bike. I just move to another local and live in perpetual summer year round
These are thing i was taught on the old club runs. Glass tyre clean and the newspaper. Old skills that are being lost. Spend £10000 by a cycling plus subscription and become a cycling expert...lol
You poor bastards, did you know there’s year round warmth on this planet? Food for thought.
I'm not fast enough to follow the fucking sun.
I'm having doubts about this mechanic's advice..
Put the bike on a Smart Trainer for the next three months! 😂
More seriously, I have found heated gloves and heated in-soles to be game changers.
"Ceramic Bearings aren't important" - whilst wearing an Enduro Hoody? 🤔
Heated gloves
Team chain wax just collapsed.
What's going on with that title?
I’ve got over 5,000 miles on my commuter road bike. I ride it every day and through the winter. I’ve washed it twice😂
Sound advice Nic 👊 👍
Whatever happened to flintcatchers?
Little wire hoops that barely scraped along the tire, attached to the front and rear brake mech monu
Aaah.
Wear chainmail gloves😂
I only do one thing to my bike in the winter....... I put it in storage
I clean and wax prior to storage
😭😜
lol yes me too, looking forward to riding in the spring!
So you don't clean it first?
Winter miles = summer smiles!
Why does Nick not like to use dishwashing soap on his bicycles?
It's a mild degreaser
An oiled chain in winter just attracts even more grit and grime that wears out your chain and drive train, wax it !
So why waxing is nonexistent in mountainbikes?
i live in a cold climate and waxing works well in winter. I have been doing so for a couple of years on my mountain bike all season@@piast99
We don’t wear white socks and shoes so a little bit of grease/oil doesn’t disturb the peace of mind of the average MTBer! 😅
No!
Completely wrong,oil is the best lube for a bike chain and unlike waxing it doesn't need more than a few minutes of cleaning before adding fresh oil. I've been commuting nearly 30 years on a bike. I don't even look at chain specific lubes.
washing my bikes with dishwashing liquid dulls the paint. but using cheap car shampoo saved it again.
Move to somewhere with nicer weather. Problem solved
--ToPeak--->