What a lifesaver that they included that "Up/Down" switch plate. Otherwise you'd never know which switch direction correlates to which direction of movement!
Having just seen a Mustie video where he spent a lot of time trying to figure out some control levers I no longer think things like this is humorous. Sure it seems obvious when you have just seen it installed, but that plate is there more for those who use the machine for the first time. Then anything that cut down on the guesswork is a good thing. And you really don't want to guess to much about the controls on a mill.
You really have taken over from TOT when it comes to "making" me spend money on kit. I really think that I want one. Where's the credit card... but, thanks for pronouncing the 26th letter of the alphabet properly. That made my heart glad.
Cool, a surprise ending! That switch panel has a pet peeve of mine - countersinks that aren't deep enough to fully sink the screw heads. Can't stand the sight of slightly proud countersink screw heads… Very interesting as usual, thanks.
Screw holes not lining up created this problem. There is no forgiveness in flat head screws. Button Head cap screws (BHCS). There you can open up the holes and you would not know the difference. Unless the bolts are way off.. Technical manuals can be a challenge and engineer's last worry. Keeping them up to date is a bigger issue but just needs a little extra effort.
I thought the same thing I would have drilled out the box behind it and used two lock nuts ... Counter sinks that are not deep enough or to deep /or uneven are like SAND IN THE BATHING SUIT !!!!!!!!!!
@@millwrightrick1 More likely the depth of the flat head cone was greater than the thickness of the sheet metal so to seat properly the base plate holes need to have some countersink cut into them.
I know absolutely nothing about Milling but I love your show I watch every episode I think I might be learning something so thank you for that I appreciate you and I love your work
An easy alternative is to use a battery drill The shaft for the manual handle is parallel (not tapered) on mine so I've just removed it and clamp the drill chuck onto it. Instant up/down power feed!
"Smells likes the devil's toothpaste...". Dad was an auto mechanic so this stuff, and the smell, was a mainstay around our house as a kid. Still have the small can, mostly full, he bought me way back when and I expect to have til I die. Believe me, glad to have it when I feel I need it. Handy stuff. And that smell always reminds me of Dad. Seriously, I just ran out to the garage to take quick whiff as a reminder. :)
I discovered your channel while searching for long lost knowledge of lathe work, after a recent need caused me to dust off my mini lathe for a project. From the darkness of my memory, a chatter rang out. Behold, I binge-watched your entire lathe series, and the dark clouds dissipated and I discovered not only the long lost knowledge, but found all the bits and pieces and tooling that I had repurposed over the years for other projects. Your presentation is clean very easy to follow and is so very much appreciated. I am but a neophyte with only a milling attachment for my Grizzly.... still, with all ten fingers intact, hope springs eternal. Thanks!
Hey Blondi, I'm a carpenter and I can consistently cut to a 64th of an inch with a worm drive Skilsaw #NotSponsored all day long (I even do it while wearing ear plugs and eye protection) so there's no excuse for a machinist who can't cut cork board to a quarter of an inch with a utility knife :-). Moving on, I had to silence a very noisy air compressor once that took up the shape of a two+ foot cube. The base was a concrete floor and the sides and top where 3/4 inch particle board lined on the inside with walls of 2 inch blue styrofoam (adhered to the particle board with dabs of silicone caulk). The lid was just laid on top of the walls (also insulated with the styrofoam) and could be simply lifted off to access the compressor controls as necessary (was held in place with a couple of drywall screws so it wouldn't rattle). When the lid was in place the styrofoam laid right down on the inner foam walls. The inner foam box and the outer particle board box had no gaps in their respective corner joins. There was a two inch diameter hole drilled near the bottom on one side of the box where air could be drawn in and the power cord could come out and there was another hole on a different side for additional air flow . There was a third hole that was smaller to accommodate the exiting air hose. These holes were then lightly plugged with pink spun fiberglass insulation. This box took the sound of the compressor from deafening down to a hum. The noise reduction was quite impressive. Heat dissipation was not an issue because the compressor was running intermittently. It was just being used to supply a finish nailer and a narrow crown stapler. The trick of success here is to put the less dense "decoupler" on the inside of the more dense outer "deadener" and additionally try to get rid of every possible air gap. Assemble wooden parts with glue and foam parts with silicone caulk. Moving on again, I was glad to see that the replacement drive train took away a big chunk of the noise you were experiencing. Priest Tools QC should have caught the problems with the first drive train as well as the switch box hole misalignments and sheetmetal cover fitment. Low volume small businesses have the opportunity to test their products individually before shipping (because of low volume) and should do so, especially when the main component (the drive train) is not something that they are manufacturing in house. It's strange that you would defend them for these errors when you yourself wouldn't send out let's say a vise stop as a box of parts that you never actually tested for fit. Think about it, the crappy threads on the socket screw, the initial no-go on the stop pin. Wouldn't it be fun if that was what you received in the mail from Blondihacks Enterprises #Not Sponsored. What makes a product good is the attention to those details.and delivering the so called "plug and play" device. (For an example check out Bell-Everman.com #NotSponsored) Even the polish with the ScotchBrite wheel adds quality. Just because someone sends you a product #Sponsored don't get all gooey and drop the standard. For something that costs $350 and except for the base plate and sheet metal cover is a collection of off the shelf parts it's just not acceptable. That was exhausting. I'm going to go eat something...Give me purr Sprocket...
Without getting too close to CNC, I have visions of a stepper motor attachment, to which you could do things like preprogrammed drilling with chip breaking, or auto tool changer height with the press of a button.
You made me smile with your call out to technical writers. I was a software engineer, but I always passed off near to finished technical documentation to the tech writers because that's how I roll. I love good tech writing. Good tech writers are unsung heroes.
little tip, if you don't want to drop something inside something, use some foam to stuff it in the holes. Cardboard or bubble wrap should work as well. Electricians use this for example to prevent nuts from falling into motors when wiring them.
On thinner panels, the nut is for the back side of the panel to adjust how far the switch sticks out. The knurled ring is meant for the "finished" side by the toggle. I always use the nut on the finished side (just like you did)...unless it is matching a bunch of other previously installed switches.
See, this is how I started, and before I knew it, I had the machine full blown CNC. I used a couple gas struts to help the Z. I was worried I wouldn't use the mill as much since it requires a program now, but honestly I run it manually frequently just using the axis controls. EDIT: I used a power wheelchair motor.
Thanks Quinn for the honest and straight forward review. It seems like this will be a great addition to your mill though you may lost some muscle mass in your right arm now. :)
I have a giant RC servo that uses that same motor and gearbox and a potentiometer and a little controller board. When I got it, it had a 2 inch diameter output 'pulley' and my father, a welder-fabricator and blacksmith, wasn't strong enough to hold the servo like a jar of pickles and stop it from turning, or force it to turn against it's will! That's a hell of a little gearbox.
well from my POV, for less bucks you can get a closed loop stepper with a pulse generator and make a control panel with switches and poti to control speed and direction. And you can use it later on for CNC conversion ;)
If anyone is interested, the product sells for approximately $350 USD from multiple outlets. My arthritis will wait for a lower price. (a year after orig post) Arthritis wants this and now they make it for the G0704 Grizzly. Shipping free and no tax which was nice. Waiting on arrival to install.
Snap tok and tick chat reference was very funny. Its great you reached out to seller about the motor. It didnt seem right and well you were right it wasnt right.
Oh, I did the same. But with a worm-gear drive (so no hand cranking anymore) and an joy-stick switch. I added a soft-start for very fine adjustment. Works well for me. I was also pissed from lowering and moving up the head all the time ;-)
Good install on a less than perfect power feed. I thought it would give you slower speeds for boring then I realized it was just to lift the head not power the quill feed.
This one I must have! OMG! This isn't cheap! I may look around for some parts and piece on together, I think I can do that. Glad this worked out in the end.
Hi Quinn, Nicely done. Glad a new gearbox motor solved the speed and sound problem. I also say Zed, but when on the radio making a contact I say Zulu. That's the NATO convention for radio phonetics. Stay safe.
Glad you got yours to work, for free even! I purchased mine and the gear box was history in less than 30 sec. Greg did send another unit. That one lasted 15 sec. No thanks.
Hi from the UK. I used an old windscreen wiper motor and gearbox (worm and wheel, loads of torque and very quiet) off of a Reliant Robin three wheeler, fitted in place of the handwheel. The handwheel was very difficult to use after I knackered my right arm. Been working great for the last five years. It's a bit slower than yours I think, takes about 30sec for full travel of column. Keep up the excellent video's and the correct English pronunciation.
I bought a Priest Tools power Z-axis for my LMS bench mill. It it such an arm saver! The installation instructions were less than clear and there were some fit up issues but in the end it was one of the best accessories I have purchased for my mill.
That’s a nice addition to your mill, I’m sure it will save a lot of time and effort, just an observation here in New Zealand it is considered bad practice to run the Ac mains cable and the low voltage control cable through the same gland as there could be a possibility of damaging the insulation and arcing to the controls.
Generally that is a very valid concern. In practice there are a lot of older machines where it was done the way we see in this video, and while some have indeed caught fire the huge majority did not. To borrow from Apple, a very small minority of machines has suffered this type of failure. My point is that if you are using good quality cables and isn't to ham fisted while installing it is not much of a risk. But still it would be a good idea to redesign this if / when they refine the design. Also with machinery that vibrates or oscillates the risk does increase somewhat.
The price of two nylon compression glands is maybe 2 or 3 dollars and would give better support for the cables where they enter the case, I’ve worked in engineering as a electrician and never been a fan of that type of metal cable gland as with vibration the outer sheathing can be damaged and it can get really messy when things start arcing out.
@@Blondihacks I know exactly what you are thinking...that little thing? Really? But, it works. Well up to a point and then the washer bends. Ask me how I know...ok, you probably don't need to ask!
So the thing about countersunk screws is that when they don't line up nicely, they will stick out and be super obvious. Might have been a better choice to open up the switch hole. For extra awesome switch mounting, the trick is to put the nut on the back of the box, and the knurled nut on the front. Line up the knurled nut flush with the end of the threads then tighten the nut with a super special extra thin wrench. It's way too much work, but it looks excellent!
Quick note on the switch hex nut. If you were mounting the switch on thin sheet metal, the hex nut would be installed on the switch first. Then used to adjust for the thickness of the metal, install the switch to the panel, and screw on the knurled for a finished look.
When writing fiction you can wax poetic and play with your readers making the text a little game to be explored. When writing a technical manual you have to be exact. There can't be anything that has to be interpreted or could be misunderstood, and it should have a easy to read format. Then you have it proof read, corrects at least some of the errors and are ready to to sign off on it when you learn that there is a new version of what ever it was you were documented that's being released. But don't worry. there are only a few small changes, they say. Which usually means you would almost be better off starting a new document rather than trying to revise the old one and try to catch every mention of anything that was changed in every part of the manual. Almost...
Nice kit. I built my own using a right angle wheelchair motor. 180 rpm max / 50 rpm min. Enough torque to bore at a good feed rate. Made a dog clutch to be able to disengage and use the crank handle for fine adjustment of the Z axis height.
In the future if your worried about a set screw buggering threads you can drop in a piece of lead shot under the set screw. Standard procedure with reloading dies. Shorten those screws on the enclosure, and add some dynamat or even better the non name brand stuff and it ought to be better. ETA great with the new motor!
Nice kit review and it sure beats cranking the handle all the time! Take that heavy metal handle off of your hand crank. It's acting like a vibrator motor at higher speeds. I remade mine out of HDPE on the lathe. Removes a good bit of weight and still functions the same.
Amazon and Ebay both have low cost "PWM DC speed controls" that work with about 7 to 30 volts input that would control the speed of your motor. It would not be hard to include in a slightly bigger box along with the on-off reversing toggle switch if you still want a speed control. As for power for downfeed operations the weight of the head would be added to the power of the motor. So it shouldn't be an issue I'm thinking for drilling or boring operations.
Or rotate that clamp so the screw heads were pointing up instead of to the left. After oversizing the holes, you could also have hit them with a counter sink bit to get the pan heads to go in a bit deeper.
Oh no, wait! The difference between the two motors is the gear ratio! That's why the second one is both spins slower and is easier to turn. But all this sound extra negative. I love your stuff Quinn, just hoping to help.
Add a silicon diode or two in series with the "down" side of that switch. Then the motor will see less voltage on the way down versus the way up. Might even out the up and down speeds. I'd want a lot less "down" speed than up. I'm ditzy and would definitely crash my mill. Going slower down might be more compatible with my ADD. Maybe add a bunch of diodes so it sees way less voltage on the way down.
I used a 12v speed controller installed in line with the power supply. You can control the down function to a crawl for drilling and power up at the up function at the max speed at the twist of a knob.
I think you would need more than just a potentiometer there to control the speed. A plain potentiometer would likely burn out because it would have to dissipate some of the power not used by the motor and they really aren't made to do that. The power would of course depend on the pot position and how you have wired it, as well as the amount of mechanical resistance encountered by the mechanism. Maybe you could sub a power supply that has a voltage-control input and use the pot to adjust that.
Nice! I've got a knee mill and moving the knee up & down took a lot of turns (heavy chunk of Cast iron.) I put a typical power feed on it. Way better. But as kits go... The new shaft didn't fit the machine. I had to turn a new shaft, thread to match, cut a keyway, etc. The instructions were typical Chinese. No idea what they said. It makes the crank handle stick out more so learn to avoid it. You still want the crank to be able to move just a bit. Well worth doing.
Easy upgrade. That will be a time saver 👍 All machinists, both pro's and hobby should be treated with power feed and rapid in all directions 😁 it's just so more convenient 😁
Very nice! When I get a machine from China (not anymore, but when I did) I started to always take it apart first before even using it. :) Basically the kit's cover needs a redesign then.
I suppose there's lots of fancy ways to trim the screws, I'd run to the dremel cutoff tool, myself, that seems to be a nice addition to the mill, should work well power downfeeding.
When you have a set screw that seats on threads and you don't want to mess up your threads, place a piece of lead between the set screw and your threads. I do this by using a piece of number 6 shot out of a shotgun shell for the size I need. But any chunk of lead that will fit in the hole will do.
That's the other great thing about (some) small run stuff -- They actually GAS about their product and will go the extra step to make sure it works. NICE.
Thanks for your most informative , well delivered and spoken video. Is there any provision for limit switches? I foresee disaster should you power to max travel top or bottom.
Great video. Would love to see the addition of the voltage divider for power down feed. I have the big brother of your mill (pm727v) and am in the process of mounting a 1/15hp gear motor for the Z. Cheers to you.
Did I see that right? The mains electrical cable running through the same cable gland as the low voltage wiring to the switch? That's a big nono over here Quinn, especially since the lid of that enclosure isn't directly earthed other than through the backplate, and the switch plate is only earthed via the control box of the mill. Do yourself a favour and pop in a secondary glad to keep the high and low voltages apart, and perhaps an earth bond wire from the psu earth terminal to the metal lid of the motor/psu enclosure.
Actually is really easy to reduce the voltage further, it is a matter of dismantling the device and finding the voltage reference and divider (usually it is just a couple of resistors connected to the trimpot, changing those with a bit of experimentation and calculation will do
Add a counterweight to the handwheel to stop the shaking. Wouldn't take much, just Mill a hole and press fit in the proper amount of lead to match the crank handle weight.
Has anyone else tried to by this?!?! I ordered it when the video came out. And I’ve heard nothing from priest tools. I’ve reached out just to see if they actually received my order, or to find out if there is a back order….. nothing!!!!! I’m not in any rush…. But I’d like some info or something from the company…… keep up the great work Quinn!!!!
There are a couple of really nice sound meter apps for your cell phone which will give you a very accurate idea of how much noise you have increased or reduced
Yay! It's Blondihacks time!!
Silver Play Button Reveal!!! Congratulations Quinn! Well deserved.
What a lifesaver that they included that "Up/Down" switch plate. Otherwise you'd never know which switch direction correlates to which direction of movement!
Having just seen a Mustie video where he spent a lot of time trying to figure out some control levers I no longer think things like this is humorous. Sure it seems obvious when you have just seen it installed, but that plate is there more for those who use the machine for the first time. Then anything that cut down on the guesswork is a good thing. And you really don't want to guess to much about the controls on a mill.
You really have taken over from TOT when it comes to "making" me spend money on kit. I really think that I want one. Where's the credit card... but, thanks for pronouncing the 26th letter of the alphabet properly. That made my heart glad.
Glad you were able to work things out with Greg and you didn't have to get cranky. All you had to do is column up
Cool, a surprise ending!
That switch panel has a pet peeve of mine - countersinks that aren't deep enough to fully sink the screw heads. Can't stand the sight of slightly proud countersink screw heads…
Very interesting as usual, thanks.
Screw holes not lining up created this problem. There is no forgiveness in flat head screws. Button Head cap screws (BHCS). There you can open up the holes and you would not know the difference. Unless the bolts are way off.. Technical manuals can be a challenge and engineer's last worry. Keeping them up to date is a bigger issue but just needs a little extra effort.
I thought the same thing I would have drilled out the box behind it and used two lock nuts ... Counter sinks that are not deep enough or to deep /or uneven are like SAND IN THE BATHING SUIT !!!!!!!!!!
That's why I always use dome head screws on projects - they just look neater (in my opinion)
@@millwrightrick1 More likely the depth of the flat head cone was greater than the thickness of the sheet metal so to seat properly the base plate holes need to have some countersink cut into them.
I know absolutely nothing about Milling but I love your show I watch every episode I think I might be learning something so thank you for that I appreciate you and I love your work
An easy alternative is to use a battery drill
The shaft for the manual handle is parallel (not tapered) on mine so I've just removed it and clamp the drill chuck onto it.
Instant up/down power feed!
I never miss a video from Blondi. Always interesting.greetings from Namibia 🇳🇦
"Smells likes the devil's toothpaste...". Dad was an auto mechanic so this stuff, and the smell, was a mainstay around our house as a kid. Still have the small can, mostly full, he bought me way back when and I expect to have til I die. Believe me, glad to have it when I feel I need it. Handy stuff. And that smell always reminds me of Dad. Seriously, I just ran out to the garage to take quick whiff as a reminder. :)
I discovered your channel while searching for long lost knowledge of lathe work, after a recent need caused me to dust off my mini lathe for a project. From the darkness of my memory, a chatter rang out. Behold, I binge-watched your entire lathe series, and the dark clouds dissipated and I discovered not only the long lost knowledge, but found all the bits and pieces and tooling that I had repurposed over the years for other projects. Your presentation is clean very easy to follow and is so very much appreciated. I am but a neophyte with only a milling attachment for my Grizzly.... still, with all ten fingers intact, hope springs eternal. Thanks!
All things being relative, YOU are my “youth of today”. Retired tech writer.
Hey Blondi, I'm a carpenter and I can consistently cut to a 64th of an inch with a worm drive Skilsaw #NotSponsored all day long (I even do it while wearing ear plugs and eye protection) so there's no excuse for a machinist who can't cut cork board to a quarter of an inch with a utility knife :-). Moving on, I had to silence a very noisy air compressor once that took up the shape of a two+ foot cube. The base was a concrete floor and the sides and top where 3/4 inch particle board lined on the inside with walls of 2 inch blue styrofoam (adhered to the particle board with dabs of silicone caulk). The lid was just laid on top of the walls (also insulated with the styrofoam) and could be simply lifted off to access the compressor controls as necessary (was held in place with a couple of drywall screws so it wouldn't rattle). When the lid was in place the styrofoam laid right down on the inner foam walls. The inner foam box and the outer particle board box had no gaps in their respective corner joins. There was a two inch diameter hole drilled near the bottom on one side of the box where air could be drawn in and the power cord could come out and there was another hole on a different side for additional air flow . There was a third hole that was smaller to accommodate the exiting air hose. These holes were then lightly plugged with pink spun fiberglass insulation. This box took the sound of the compressor from deafening down to a hum. The noise reduction was quite impressive. Heat dissipation was not an issue because the compressor was running intermittently. It was just being used to supply a finish nailer and a narrow crown stapler. The trick of success here is to put the less dense "decoupler" on the inside of the more dense outer "deadener" and additionally try to get rid of every possible air gap. Assemble wooden parts with glue and foam parts with silicone caulk.
Moving on again, I was glad to see that the replacement drive train took away a big chunk of the noise you were experiencing. Priest Tools QC should have caught the problems with the first drive train as well as the switch box hole misalignments and sheetmetal cover fitment. Low volume small businesses have the opportunity to test their products individually before shipping (because of low volume) and should do so, especially when the main component (the drive train) is not something that they are manufacturing in house. It's strange that you would defend them for these errors when you yourself wouldn't send out let's say a vise stop as a box of parts that you never actually tested for fit. Think about it, the crappy threads on the socket screw, the initial no-go on the stop pin. Wouldn't it be fun if that was what you received in the mail from Blondihacks Enterprises #Not Sponsored. What makes a product good is the attention to those details.and delivering the so called "plug and play" device. (For an example check out Bell-Everman.com #NotSponsored) Even the polish with the ScotchBrite wheel adds quality. Just because someone sends you a product #Sponsored don't get all gooey and drop the standard. For something that costs $350 and except for the base plate and sheet metal cover is a collection of off the shelf parts it's just not acceptable.
That was exhausting. I'm going to go eat something...Give me purr Sprocket...
Without getting too close to CNC, I have visions of a stepper motor attachment, to which you could do things like preprogrammed drilling with chip breaking, or auto tool changer height with the press of a button.
More expensive though, mabuchi 550 motors are quite cheap.
Yeah - it's screaming for a "home" button!
You made me smile with your call out to technical writers. I was a software engineer, but I always passed off near to finished technical documentation to the tech writers because that's how I roll. I love good tech writing. Good tech writers are unsung heroes.
You are the sharp one when it comes to the internets Quinn.
little tip, if you don't want to drop something inside something, use some foam to stuff it in the holes. Cardboard or bubble wrap should work as well. Electricians use this for example to prevent nuts from falling into motors when wiring them.
That is a great tip, I'll add to my arsenal. Thanks.
On thinner panels, the nut is for the back side of the panel to adjust how far the switch sticks out. The knurled ring is meant for the "finished" side by the toggle. I always use the nut on the finished side (just like you did)...unless it is matching a bunch of other previously installed switches.
See, this is how I started, and before I knew it, I had the machine full blown CNC. I used a couple gas struts to help the Z. I was worried I wouldn't use the mill as much since it requires a program now, but honestly I run it manually frequently just using the axis controls. EDIT: I used a power wheelchair motor.
I love the humor that comes with your forensic approach to challenges. I don't know anything about this stuff, but I enjoy watching you do it.
Thanks Quinn for the honest and straight forward review. It seems like this will be a great addition to your mill though you may lost some muscle mass in your right arm now. :)
Yeah, a big right arm is a dead giveaway that you crank your column too much. Or so I've heard...
FYI most wire crimps have a built in screw cutter on them so if you have a set to crimp ends on wires you have electrical screw cutters.
I have a giant RC servo that uses that same motor and gearbox and a potentiometer and a little controller board. When I got it, it had a 2 inch diameter output 'pulley' and my father, a welder-fabricator and blacksmith, wasn't strong enough to hold the servo like a jar of pickles and stop it from turning, or force it to turn against it's will! That's a hell of a little gearbox.
well from my POV, for less bucks you can get a closed loop stepper with a pulse generator and make a control panel with switches and poti to control speed and direction. And you can use it later on for CNC conversion ;)
Add a counter weight to the hand crank, or make a quick disconnect crank handle. That's where you're violent shaking is coming from.
Did you bother to watch the video? The explanation and solution is there.
@@paulcopeland9035 yeah, loud noises, hard rotation= bad gear box. Resonance vibration and shaking, large unbalanced rotating mass
Nice addition to the mill
Congratulations on your new QNC (Quinn Numerical Control) Z axis!
If anyone is interested, the product sells for approximately $350 USD from multiple outlets. My arthritis will wait for a lower price. (a year after orig post) Arthritis wants this and now they make it for the G0704 Grizzly. Shipping free and no tax which was nice. Waiting on arrival to install.
Hey Quinn, you said that insulating cover on the power supply was a nice touch - I'd think is more of a no-touch...😁
Fire retardancy test should be made to the material used on the cover.
Snap tok and tick chat reference was very funny. Its great you reached out to seller about the motor. It didnt seem right and well you were right it wasnt right.
Oh, I did the same. But with a worm-gear drive (so no hand cranking anymore) and an joy-stick switch. I added a soft-start for very fine adjustment. Works well for me. I was also pissed from lowering and moving up the head all the time ;-)
Good install on a less than perfect power feed. I thought it would give you slower speeds for boring then I realized it was just to lift the head not power the quill feed.
While I don't have a milling machine I do have a lack of tolerance for parts that don't fit as do you so I watched till the end, great video.
This one I must have! OMG! This isn't cheap! I may look around for some parts and piece on together, I think I can do that. Glad this worked out in the end.
Just bought one. Was tired of cranking up/down after only a few weeks. Thanks for the review, Quinn!
Hi Quinn,
Nicely done. Glad a new gearbox motor solved the speed and sound problem. I also say Zed, but when on the radio making a contact I say Zulu. That's the NATO convention for radio phonetics. Stay safe.
Glad you got yours to work, for free even! I purchased mine and the gear box was history in less than 30 sec. Greg did send another unit. That one lasted 15 sec. No thanks.
Hi from the UK. I used an old windscreen wiper motor and gearbox (worm and wheel, loads of torque and very quiet) off of a Reliant Robin three wheeler, fitted in place of the handwheel. The handwheel was very difficult to use after I knackered my right arm. Been working great for the last five years. It's a bit slower than yours I think, takes about 30sec for full travel of column. Keep up the excellent video's and the correct English pronunciation.
I bought a Priest Tools power Z-axis for my LMS bench mill. It it such an arm saver! The installation instructions were less than clear and there were some fit up issues but in the end it was one of the best accessories I have purchased for my mill.
That’s a nice addition to your mill, I’m sure it will save a lot of time and effort, just an observation here in New Zealand it is considered bad practice to run the Ac mains cable and the low voltage control cable through the same gland as there could be a possibility of damaging the insulation and arcing to the controls.
Generally that is a very valid concern. In practice there are a lot of older machines where it was done the way we see in this video, and while some have indeed caught fire the huge majority did not. To borrow from Apple, a very small minority of machines has suffered this type of failure. My point is that if you are using good quality cables and isn't to ham fisted while installing it is not much of a risk. But still it would be a good idea to redesign this if / when they refine the design. Also with machinery that vibrates or oscillates the risk does increase somewhat.
The price of two nylon compression glands is maybe 2 or 3 dollars and would give better support for the cables where they enter the case, I’ve worked in engineering as a electrician and never been a fan of that type of metal cable gland as with vibration the outer sheathing can be damaged and it can get really messy when things start arcing out.
I have an Emco FB-2 and want to do this to i
DRO was a big help
Probably not as big a concern for 110V as 240. We get real sparks.
Great video....I am considering buying one. Oh, and the washer....it is to keep you from moving the head up too far...ask me how I know this!
Ooooh! That’s what that’s for??
@@Blondihacks I know exactly what you are thinking...that little thing? Really? But, it works. Well up to a point and then the washer bends. Ask me how I know...ok, you probably don't need to ask!
So the thing about countersunk screws is that when they don't line up nicely, they will stick out and be super obvious. Might have been a better choice to open up the switch hole. For extra awesome switch mounting, the trick is to put the nut on the back of the box, and the knurled nut on the front. Line up the knurled nut flush with the end of the threads then tighten the nut with a super special extra thin wrench. It's way too much work, but it looks excellent!
Quick note on the switch hex nut. If you were mounting the switch on thin sheet metal, the hex nut would be installed on the switch first. Then used to adjust for the thickness of the metal, install the switch to the panel, and screw on the knurled for a finished look.
Nice that they sent you a new motor. I spent 8 years writing over 150 technical manuals, I enjoyed it, but I remember it being exhausting.
When writing fiction you can wax poetic and play with your readers making the text a little game to be explored. When writing a technical manual you have to be exact. There can't be anything that has to be interpreted or could be misunderstood, and it should have a easy to read format. Then you have it proof read, corrects at least some of the errors and are ready to to sign off on it when you learn that there is a new version of what ever it was you were documented that's being released. But don't worry. there are only a few small changes, they say. Which usually means you would almost be better off starting a new document rather than trying to revise the old one and try to catch every mention of anything that was changed in every part of the manual. Almost...
I wrote one tech manual...nobody every used it, but it was honest work and technical correct; After all, isn't that the best kind of correct!?!
Nice kit. I built my own using a right angle wheelchair motor. 180 rpm max / 50 rpm min. Enough torque to bore at a good feed rate. Made a dog clutch to be able to disengage and use the crank handle for fine adjustment of the Z axis height.
In the future if your worried about a set screw buggering threads you can drop in a piece of lead shot under the set screw. Standard procedure with reloading dies. Shorten those screws on the enclosure, and add some dynamat or even better the non name brand stuff and it ought to be better. ETA great with the new motor!
Hey won’t the set screw keep it from unscrewing in reverse?
I'm waiting for the video that includes Shop Cat perched on the crank wheel, when Quinn hits the "UP" button. (alert PETA)
Nice kit review and it sure beats cranking the handle all the time! Take that heavy metal handle off of your hand crank. It's acting like a vibrator motor at higher speeds. I remade mine out of HDPE on the lathe. Removes a good bit of weight and still functions the same.
Always a good day when you are not cranky!
Amazon and Ebay both have low cost "PWM DC speed controls" that work with about 7 to 30 volts input that would control the speed of your motor. It would not be hard to include in a slightly bigger box along with the on-off reversing toggle switch if you still want a speed control.
As for power for downfeed operations the weight of the head would be added to the power of the motor. So it shouldn't be an issue I'm thinking for drilling or boring operations.
Nice addition to your mill thanks for your review
Or rotate that clamp so the screw heads were pointing up instead of to the left.
After oversizing the holes, you could also have hit them with a counter sink bit to get the pan heads to go in a bit deeper.
Oh no, wait! The difference between the two motors is the gear ratio! That's why the second one is both spins slower and is easier to turn.
But all this sound extra negative. I love your stuff Quinn, just hoping to help.
Add a silicon diode or two in series with the "down" side of that switch. Then the motor will see less voltage on the way down versus the way up. Might even out the up and down speeds.
I'd want a lot less "down" speed than up. I'm ditzy and would definitely crash my mill. Going slower down might be more compatible with my ADD. Maybe add a bunch of diodes so it sees way less voltage on the way down.
I used a 12v speed controller installed in line with the power supply. You can control the down function to a crawl for drilling and power up at the up function at the max speed at the twist of a knob.
Interesting kit.
The motor coupling is what we call a Lovejoy coupler here in the States.
Nice video 👍
Always I am playing catch up. Another fine video production. Thanks.
Hi Quinn, Would have liked to hear the noise that the first motor was making, thank you for another good video.
You should post this of Faceblog and tweeter.
What a lovely outcome. Now I am on the search for a kit for mine!
Did pretty well on the deboxification, but I'm pretty sure the included paper is called _the destructions._
Oh to own a square dovetailed pillar mill.. great video as per.
Our power supplies go to 12! (better than 11)... gosh that joke never gets old LOL 🤣 Kit installed... Yeah!!! Well done!
I think you would need more than just a potentiometer there to control the speed. A plain potentiometer would likely burn out because it would have to dissipate some of the power not used by the motor and they really aren't made to do that. The power would of course depend on the pot position and how you have wired it, as well as the amount of mechanical resistance encountered by the mechanism.
Maybe you could sub a power supply that has a voltage-control input and use the pot to adjust that.
That's a nice upgrade. Easy to install and easy to use. Good idea.
Nice! I've got a knee mill and moving the knee up & down took a lot of turns (heavy chunk of Cast iron.) I put a typical power feed on it. Way better. But as kits go... The new shaft didn't fit the machine. I had to turn a new shaft, thread to match, cut a keyway, etc. The instructions were typical Chinese. No idea what they said. It makes the crank handle stick out more so learn to avoid it. You still want the crank to be able to move just a bit. Well worth doing.
Re: chinese instructions, google translate app on your phone is handy for dealing with this.
I recommend adding adjustment speed when u use drill or milling drill etc. it will help slow down. Try it.. Great work! Thumbs up! Cheers!
Go for 200,000 subscribers!
Easy upgrade. That will be a time saver 👍 All machinists, both pro's and hobby should be treated with power feed and rapid in all directions 😁 it's just so more convenient 😁
Don't forget a head that doesn't drop .150 when locks are released
I appreciate these videos and your humor.
Eureka! Cork! I've been trying to damp my machine, experimenting with bolt-on mass and neoprene damping. I didn't think of cork
Very nice! When I get a machine from China (not anymore, but when I did) I started to always take it apart first before even using it. :) Basically the kit's cover needs a redesign then.
You can add a resistor to the wires on the switch going down to equal the speed of up and down
I suppose there's lots of fancy ways to trim the screws, I'd run to the dremel cutoff tool, myself, that seems to be a nice addition to the mill, should work well power downfeeding.
When you have a set screw that seats on threads and you don't want to mess up your threads, place a piece of lead between the set screw and your threads. I do this by using a piece of number 6 shot out of a shotgun shell for the size I need. But any chunk of lead that will fit in the hole will do.
That's a really good idea.
That's the other great thing about (some) small run stuff -- They actually GAS about their product and will go the extra step to make sure it works. NICE.
bonjour Blondihacks , merci pour cette belle vidéo . je crois que je vais équiper ma 24BF
Certainly need to add the speed control. Power down feed is the Sprockets meow for boring head work. It will have more than enough umphh for that.
Should be able to add a pwm controller to the motor to change the speed easly just place it before the switch 😁
Thanks for your most informative , well delivered and spoken video. Is there any provision for limit switches? I foresee disaster should you power to max travel top or bottom.
You need a mini chain saw for proper deboxification
Very cool!! I been thinking about making my mini mill a CNC mill and I have to fix the x axis feed on my big Sharp Mill lol
finished cranking my head years ago
Good video, but that DeWalt glue gun is AWESOME! I want one!
Great video. Would love to see the addition of the voltage divider for power down feed. I have the big brother of your mill (pm727v) and am in the process of mounting a 1/15hp gear motor for the Z. Cheers to you.
You might need to add a DC-DC buck converter with a potentiometer to change the output voltage for the motor. It will be very helpful for you.
Don't change the voltage, use PWM controller (and even increase the voltage of the power supply again). More control and more power.
pwm control with a display is like $5, also it will fit in the box
Did I see that right? The mains electrical cable running through the same cable gland as the low voltage wiring to the switch? That's a big nono over here Quinn, especially since the lid of that enclosure isn't directly earthed other than through the backplate, and the switch plate is only earthed via the control box of the mill.
Do yourself a favour and pop in a secondary glad to keep the high and low voltages apart, and perhaps an earth bond wire from the psu earth terminal to the metal lid of the motor/psu enclosure.
Actually is really easy to reduce the voltage further, it is a matter of dismantling the device and finding the voltage reference and divider (usually it is just a couple of resistors connected to the trimpot, changing those with a bit of experimentation and calculation will do
Review her video on "power feed" from a couple of weeks ago. You will soon realize she needs very little "help" when it comes to electronics.
Excellent video. You are so good at "splaining" things. If you were my teacher in school I probably would have been an A student.
Deboxification videos are much more amusing when you're in a country where "box" is used instead of "cup" for an athletic protector.
Add a counterweight to the handwheel to stop the shaking. Wouldn't take much, just Mill a hole and press fit in the proper amount of lead to match the crank handle weight.
It doesn’t shake any more
@@Blondihacks was going to suggest something similar. Lowering the speed reduces the forces so it doesn't matter, though.
Does anybody bother to watch the complete videos??
This got me thinking. Can I use same setup to get me a power feed on my lathe?
The washer on the column is a z height stop. Without it, you’d keep on cranking and launch your spindle to the moooon.
Some switch mode power supplies come with a 5v supply, perhaps it's worth a look.
Deboxification rocks.
Has anyone else tried to by this?!?! I ordered it when the video came out. And I’ve heard nothing from priest tools. I’ve reached out just to see if they actually received my order, or to find out if there is a back order….. nothing!!!!! I’m not in any rush…. But I’d like some info or something from the company…… keep up the great work Quinn!!!!
Great Scott! Where have I heard that before?!
There are a couple of really nice sound meter apps for your cell phone which will give you a very accurate idea of how much noise you have increased or reduced
Nice & neat install, thx for sharing Quinn. Bear in Tx.