Thank you for making a clear, concise video without feeling the need to add in annoying music, “cute” unnecessary banter and special effects. You are doing the internet a real service. I will be back to look at your other videos.
What a FANTASTIC TEACHER!!!!! I don’t have any of this equipment and don’t know a thing about machining, but this video makes me want to spend days asking more questions and listening to you! Like, How long have you been at this? How did you get started? Who were the teachers who made the biggest impact on your skill if any or were you self taught? Again, thank you for the video as it was just a joy to watch and learn from you!
New sub here , BUT , an old hand with machining . . . 'LOVE your approach . . . nearly ZERO 'lost motion' - A little 'trimming' as an afterthought is just showing that you're PRUDENT ! * I'll be binge watching ! ! !
I'd use them on my little boxes I currently cover in origami paper that has designs, use them for my. Art Deco earring line, and a few dice towers for my gaming groups. 😁👍
Interesting video, makes me wonder about tool forces. I have a regular knurling tool, and it works in aluminium, on my little South Bend clone (9") For steel I think I would need a Scissor style tool. Maybe this could work as well on a small and weaker machine ? (Yours seem very rigid)
@@mikelevyonline the main issue is the swarf and metal dust that's blown onto the lathe bed and chuck. It might be because I was trying to do it with a regular form knurling wheel with the bevel ground flat. I think the cuts were not clean.
I'm not very pleased with my knurling attempts, but this video is very promising, one of those that may promote me to Home Shop Machinist one day😄My question is: what are the most common angles between horizontal plane and knurling wheel axis? This because my toolpost is standard four sided slotted prism which make height adjustment of the round tool bar more demanding. In other words: I need to know How much I will have to move knurling tool holder up and down in my tool post to compensate the pivot of the contact point?
If you stick with straight or box knurling, there's no need to readjust center height. For diamond knurling, the angle between the vertical plane and the plane of the knurling wheel is pretty much up to you and the diamond shape you prefer. You could start with +/- 30 degrees and see how you like it. The center height difference between the two settings will depend upon the offset of the knurling wheel contact point from the center of rotation of the tool shank. It's possible, of course, to fabricate a more sophisticated tool in which the contact point of the knurling wheel is coincident with the center of rotation.
That was quick, thank you very much! I appreciate your detailed answer. As the contact point between knurling wheel and the material must be at the height of the material axis, it seems that I have to put some insert under my tool post to provide space for tool height alteration..Thanks again.
Really like the idea and your work! Think I will have to try to make one, but can't run in reverse, old South Bend has screw on chuck. Also like the links at the end for other vids. 🙂!!
I didn't see you mention the angle that the knurl wheel is tilted at ? Is it non critical ? Is there a difference between a straight knurl wheel or an angled knurl wheel?
The angle is critical, at least for a straight knurl. Comprehensive details on how to actually use the tool and which knurling wheels to use may be found here: m.th-cam.com/video/jNCAGeJN01A/w-d-xo.html&lc=UgxlhiTXt7h98R7U2514AaABAg&feature=em-comments
That's sensational. I was considering buying a cut knurling tool but they are hard to get in Australia and very expensive. This one will be going on my to do list. Regards, Preso
Thank you for making a clear, concise video without feeling the need to add in annoying music, “cute” unnecessary banter and special effects. You are doing the internet a real service. I will be back to look at your other videos.
Thank you!
Very interesting and useful. Great with no music so you can actually hear the tools cutting. 👍
Thanks for stopping by.
What a FANTASTIC TEACHER!!!!!
I don’t have any of this equipment and don’t know a thing about machining, but this video makes me want to spend days asking more questions and listening to you! Like, How long have you been at this? How did you get started? Who were the teachers who made the biggest impact on your skill if any or were you self taught? Again, thank you for the video as it was just a joy to watch and learn from you!
Thanks for your gracious comments.
Thanks for the interesting and new (to me) approach to knurling. I am going to have to give this approach a try.
Glad you found it informative.
Very nice job Sir. Thanks for all the manual work.
New sub here , BUT , an old hand with machining . . . 'LOVE your approach . . . nearly ZERO 'lost motion' - A little 'trimming' as an afterthought is just showing that you're PRUDENT ! * I'll be binge watching ! ! !
Thank you, and thanks for stopping by.
Well done! A pleasure to watch.
Thank you!
Great project and final result.
I’m subscribing now!
Thanks so much!
Impressive work. I learned a lot this morning. Thank you good sir, and I’ll be making one of these today. Cheers from Florida’s Space Coast.
Thanks, I’m glad you found it informative.
Very nice work sir. Interesting. I never knew the difference. Just thought knurling is knurling. Learned something new. Thanks.
Thanks, glad you found it informative.
So cool! Good video. I might have to make one of these.
Very interesting.
Thanks for sharing.
I'd use them on my little boxes I currently cover in origami paper that has designs, use them for my. Art Deco earring line, and a few dice towers for my gaming groups. 😁👍
Interesting video, makes me wonder about tool forces.
I have a regular knurling tool, and it works in aluminium, on my little South Bend clone (9") For steel I think I would need a Scissor style tool.
Maybe this could work as well on a small and weaker machine ? (Yours seem very rigid)
Fantastic, thanks for sharing 👍
Glad you found it enjoyable.
Excellent , I really must try this, like many not a technique id heard of .. I definitely want to use it for delrin.
Thanks, glad you found it useful.
Nice to see someone lathe filing left handed, much safer!!
I will be making one of these!!!
Yes it is safer, but I’m naturally left-handed anyway. Thanks for stopping by.
Excellent rigidity your lathe has.
It’s a Colchester Chipmaster.
Love the result. I need to get myself a decent hss cut knurling wheel to try it out. I've been put off by the swarf, dust and mess it creates though.
It’s not that bad, actually. When you’re done, a paper towel takes care of it.
@@mikelevyonline the main issue is the swarf and metal dust that's blown onto the lathe bed and chuck. It might be because I was trying to do it with a regular form knurling wheel with the bevel ground flat. I think the cuts were not clean.
As long as the knurling wheel is good quality, properly grinding off the bevel should work OK.
Thanks for the video, I'll be making one of those :)
Glad you found it useful.
Great video, great tool.
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it.
Very impressive.
I just subscribed to your channel.
Have a great day.👍
Thank you!
I'm not very pleased with my knurling attempts, but this video is very promising, one of those that may promote me to Home Shop Machinist one day😄My question is: what are the most common angles between horizontal plane and knurling wheel axis? This because my toolpost is standard four sided slotted prism which make height adjustment of the round tool bar more demanding. In other words: I need to know How much I will have to move knurling tool holder up and down in my tool post to compensate the pivot of the contact point?
If you stick with straight or box knurling, there's no need to readjust center height. For diamond knurling, the angle between the vertical plane and the plane of the knurling wheel is pretty much up to you and the diamond shape you prefer. You could start with +/- 30 degrees and see how you like it. The center height difference between the two settings will depend upon the offset of the knurling wheel contact point from the center of rotation of the tool shank. It's possible, of course, to fabricate a more sophisticated tool in which the contact point of the knurling wheel is coincident with the center of rotation.
That was quick, thank you very much! I appreciate your detailed answer. As the contact point between knurling wheel and the material must be at the height of the material axis, it seems that I have to put some insert under my tool post to provide space for tool height alteration..Thanks again.
Try moving the air blast to the underside so the chips have a chance to leave, by the time the cut point comes around?
Thanks for the suggestion.
Neat little tool/project. What kind of lathe are you running?
Colchester Chipmaster
Wow, that was fast.
After 60+ years of dong it the other way I learned a new way.......cool.
Thanks, I’m always learning new stuff too.
Really like the idea and your work! Think I will have to try to make one, but can't run in reverse, old South Bend has screw on chuck. Also like the links at the end for other vids. 🙂!!
Actually, it is possible to cut knurl a diamond pattern in forward only, as the two-wheel cut knurlers do just that.
Does the diameter of the part need to match the pitch of the knurling wheel?
No, it should track on any random diameter.
I have been trying to make a 4" diameter knurled knob,would this work for a large diameter piece?
Yes, shouldn’t be a problem.
I didn't see you mention the angle that the knurl wheel is tilted at ? Is it non critical ? Is there a difference between a straight knurl wheel or an angled knurl wheel?
The angle is critical, at least for a straight knurl. Comprehensive details on how to actually use the tool and which knurling wheels to use may be found here: m.th-cam.com/video/jNCAGeJN01A/w-d-xo.html&lc=UgxlhiTXt7h98R7U2514AaABAg&feature=em-comments
That's sensational. I was considering buying a cut knurling tool but they are hard to get in Australia and very expensive. This one will be going on my to do list.
Regards, Preso
How dare you call me NORMAL.
Ive strived to keep out of that Normal box for 70 years.
Really analyze the air flow and aim it then. Your airflow is not at its most efficient.
Yes, you are quite correct. Among other things, I believe a properly designed nozzle would be a significant improvement.
Sex on a stick - mechanics' edition.