Jeremy Schoenborn on Acid Crack, Joshua Tree National Park
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 เม.ย. 2017
- Joshua Tree resident Jeremy Schoenborn spent a few days working on Acid Crack, a CLASSIC 5.12d in the Arid Piles of Joshua Tree National Park. He finished it just in time. The heat was moving in but on his third day of lead attempts the conditions were just right.
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An excellent film, showing advanced techniques clearly. One thing not shown at this angle, is that the whole thing is overhanging. A great thing to get a knee-bar rest.
The first 5.12 I ever got on, in 1984 while some Aussie hard guys were seiging the second ascent. No microcams in those days! (They had a homemade 0.5 rigid friend).
I think I got to the second pod lol (my hardest insight was Coarse and Buggy two days before). They got the second ascent ground-up siege leaving gear overnight, a weird early-80s style. Bachar TR'd then led clean on FA. Really sportish climbing for a trad route.
Course and Byggy is epic. Stemming and a beautiful line with a crack top out
Nice! Thanks for showing it all--the gear placements and clips included. That can be hardest part...
Great send! Great tunes! Great video! Thanks for posting and keeping me psyched!!!!
Interesting how few actual crack moves there are on that thing...
The production quality of this films is incredible! Enjoying every single one of your vids!
Beautiful climbing and beautiful cinematography. Really enjoyed that!
Great video! It really is cool seeing the placements and clips. I hope you guys make some videos for 2018 now that the season has begun.
superb filming aswell!!
Mofe excelente filming, editing and of course climbing. Thanks guys
Gorgeous work
Great routines and amazing camera work and content. Keep them coming!
colin porter thanks so much- lots of videos coming soon 👍🏼
Really nice send. Really nice camera work and composition!
Solid send.
Good job
that was amazing. Nice job too!
Such a beautiful video
thanks buddy!
Aesthetic af
He made it look easy!
Nice video. All climbing, no bs. Great top-out fist pump, I felt it.
Great lead, super pumpy route 💪🏻💥
Great climbing. Inspiring!
Nice! Great climbing!
Congrats on the Hydra this year! Adam S
Well done on all levels! Send + video production, 👍🏼👍🏼.
Found this trad climb randomly. I don't trad but got damn, that's a beautiful vid.
thanks Sam!
That was beautiful
Somebody's got this wired! Nice job !
Very nice... surprised you did not place a piece or two from the kneebar.
You really can't see or reach good placements from the knee bar without losing a lot of the resting
Nice video. looks like it climbs a lot like a sport climb in a couple places. How were the finger locks?
On was on Acid Crack with Randy Levitt just after Scott Franklen flashed it
nice send!!!
I did this back in '83 after John and John. 😅
I never got past the 1st crux :) Well done and nice video!
Thank uuuuu
impressive, when I'm on acid and crack I usually find it hard enough just to walk let alone climb rocks.
(I'm joking btw)
Your videos are art. I'm heading this Sunday to try father figure. Make one of presupposition 5.11D
Cyrus Roshdieh thanks man! good luck, that thing is so classic.. presupp would be awesome, we will probably start shooting a lot more moderate climbs next season. Stay tuned
So cool to see you place the gear on lead! So many hard crack videos the gear is pre-placed which to me completely changes the character of the climbing. Nice footwork!
Pre-placed gear is what is...on one side it could be compared to just pre placing draws. On the other you could argue that one is not free climbing with pre-placed gear.
Super! 👍💪
sick kneebar near the top!!
Nice fucking work. Both on the climbing and the video!
Thanks for the compliment Annika!!
I was never that strong. So I tried tried to get kneebars everywhere. There's an obvious rest in the middle of the route.
Nice crack
You made that look way too easy
I googled rock-climbing on acid....
Knee bars for days
Jugs!
5.12 !! that hard ?? it looks easy from my view cuz i see places for feet all along the route
I’m just a TH-cam watcher of climbers. I respect what they do. I think they’re badass athletes. But I got into Alex Hannold w all his accomplishments with no ropes. And to watch these guys... I kinda go whatever he’s got a rope, I’m not interested. You fall , it’s no big deal. Alex falls... he’s dead for the entire climb after 30-50 ft. No disrespect....just saying.
Well uhh feel free to get out there and fall on gear, see how no big deal it is.
Yuri Rodea hey man... I prefaced my statement with, “I don’t know shit” I was just saying. So it is a big deal? It hurts every time? I seriously don’t know. I’ve never done it.
@@zdrumdude it's scary as shit
Why compare achievements? You can also point out that free soloists don't push their limits when free soloing, so them not falling on a route they're comfortable with is a lot less impressive than pushing their limits, which Alex Honnold always does roped.
Rather than pointlessly comparing free soloing with roped climbing, why don't we just appreciate both for what they are?
Rock climbing, for 99.99% of climbers, is done because it is wildly fun. If you get it, you get it. Get out of your house and get to a climbing gym or have someone show you how to climb outdoors! I promise this video will make sense after a couple years.
Nice shirt my boy