Shauna Coxsey vs. Janja Garnbret - Two Of The Best Climbers In The World
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ส.ค. 2020
- How do the two best women competing in the Tokyo Olympics, Shauna Coxsey and Janja Garnbret compare?
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The thing with Janja is that she has no real weakness. Even on slabs (THE GREAT EQUALIZER ;) ) she is at least as good as everyone else. Shes more dynamic, stronger and more consistent than everybody else. Even this year where I think her focus was more on the olympics than on individual WCs Natalia Grosman basically had to flash 4 boulders to win SLC. At this point its like this: Janja with avarage day = win; Everyone else with best performance of their career = slight chance of winning
First thing I thought when Janja went 5th at speed at the olympics: Hmm guess she finnishes with 5 points.
Also: Raise you hand if you have seen a boulder in the last 3-4 years where you think: Hmm I wonder if Janja can do it before she gets on.
I have to agree with you - Janja has really developed over the last year and it has been really fun to see her destroy the Olympics too. Thanks for sharing your comment :)
Shauna was a great inspiration when I started watching competition and it saddend me to slowly see her fade away. It was always a joy to see hee climb
Both are amazing. Shauna is super calm and methodical and Janja is a beast. Love them both
There is something funny to me how people commenting on Janja never mention her technique which is still superb. They call her a beast or a superhuman or whatever and I totally get it. Whenever I watch her I usually think atleast once "you're not supposed to do it like that I think, but if you're strong enough I guess...."
Shauna trained at the same wall as me when she was very young. There were non of the modern style problems then and I think that is a slight disadvantage. She is an amazing climber though and I hope she can be fit for the Olympics.
That is cool you have that connection - I’m excited for her to compete in the Olympics and really showcase her mental strength when it comes to a world stage bigger than any climber has been on before (in comp climbing) - I think in that manner, she’ll really stand out.
@@SendEdition Honestly I think the women's competition will be a contest for second place. I don't see anyone beating Janja. I don't think anyone's going to beat her at bouldering and I think there needs to be a freak accident to not finish in the top 2 in lead. As for speed climbing, eventhough it doesn't really matter if you win the other two disciplines, I think her explosive style gives her an advantage over other lead competitors.
The Olympics when they took place in Tokyo 2021 unfortunately came about 5 years to late for Shauna... She was and still is a great climber but the amount of injuries and surgeries she has had in the last 4 years meant she had little chance of her getting a medal... However she did really well in the bouldering if there was a medal for each discipline she might of got a bronze... She did well to qualify over Molly Thompson Smith
You may be right - I will miss seeing Shauna compete! She was amazing
She was injured at the time of the Olympics too. incredibly unfortunate
It's hard to compare them because the year Shauna dominated bouldering Janja was not really competing in the boulders and then Shauna got injured and hasn't competed much after recovering, doing just enough to qualify for the olympics. If I had to put money, it's Janja for the olympics for sure. Janja is not only a monster in bouldering but a monster in lead climbing and so the combined format favors her heavily.
Thanks for your input! Even since I've made this video, Janja has really grown and improved as a competitor. I have no doubt that she'll be a leading climber in the Olympics. Both climbers, however, don't perform as well in speed climbing, which will hurt them in this Olympics - so if not in Tokyo, certainly in Paris when speed doesn't count toward the medal they'd be competing in
Very beautiful video. I liked that very much. Many greetings ronactive
These two are amazing climbers and even though they aren't perfectly comparable, they do compete against each other and will be at the Olympics. Do you think one of them is going to take the podium? and if so, which one?
Janja feels more athletic whereas Shauna seems like her moves are precisely calibrated.
My two favourite climbers!
Nice!
I'll have to disagree on the mental strength part though -- Janja delivered clutch performances time and time again under tremendous pressure and expectations. This is not to take any credit away from Shauna(I'm less familiar with her in general), but I'd say mental strength is a great asset of Janja instead of potential weakness.
I think the Olympics and the recent comp season shows how strong her mental game has come so now, I think I have to agree with you. Thanks for sharing!
Hey, great video! I find it really interesting how, despite all of her comp experience, Coxsey looks pretty confused compared to Janja on some of the boulders - could that maybe be due to the takeover of the 'new' style of bouldering? Either way, I loved the side-by-side!
Ascentionism thanks for your comment! There is definitely something to be said for the new boulder style - thanks for sharing! It may be interesting to review her climbing confidence from a few years ago before her major injuries too.
@@SendEdition totally her injuries must have been a setback for her, she skipped a few races in IFSC 2019 season
I feel like people are under the misconception that because because Shauna is slow that must mean she's more 'calculated'. That's just not a deductive argument. There's even evidence to the contrary in that they do the same moves. At least in the footage show, Garnbret is just better in every way.
What are the tunes playing? Sick climbs
I would not necessarily put them next to each other since Shauna is mostly a boulderer while Janja is an all-rounder. Also, not taking Kim Jain (the ballerina on the wall) into account. Kim was also an all-rounder like Janja (i.e. lead and boulder) before her knee injury after which she decided to stick to lead mostly. Her monstrous endurance and elegance is second to none.
Also, apologies for splitting hairs, but not "best climbers", instead "best sport climbers" :)
Good points - thanks for sharing!
And I've apparently got to be McEnroe - "best female sport climbers."
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Janja crushed everybody at the olympics
omg hey Adora
202012
Shauna is amazing but she has been prone to injury. Janja is amazing and has incredible flow and is also on top of her game this year. For more info watch the back catalog of IFSC events featuring these two. Money on Janja for Olympic gold.
Thanks for your comment - her injury history is concerning and Janja has made incredible strides, even since publishing this video. The Olympics are certainly going to be exciting to watch!
Janja is better than Shauna.
Problem #2 was just silly. Set properly setters!
Setting makes such a difference when it comes to climbing! Thanks for your comment - I recently published a video interview with Team USA Chief Route Setter about how comp routes are designed that you may be interested in. I don't think he set that particular route though.
Shauna is one of the best looking climbers out there. Makes her more fun to watch
Can't argue with that!
I would say Miho Nonaka or Lucka Rakovec are just stunning
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