see a lot of connections untaped or covered in drip around me. good to see it done right. at the pole do u see any water penetrations that will lower the life of equipment?
All 3 of the customer lines are for electricity, the difference is what direction the current (electrons) flows. The unshielded line is called Neutral and is bonded to ground at both the pole and the customer's service entrance. Current can, but usually doesn't flow on this line, but it's there for more than just structural reasons. The other two lines (called phases) are "Hot" with respect to Neutral. Each phase is either pushing or pulling current relative to neutral at any given time. The trick is that while each phase is only pushing or pulling 110v relative to Neutral at any given time, they are synchronized with each other so that when one pushes, the other pulls. Devices that draw a small amount of current are fed by just one phase, and larger devices like clothes dryers or air conditioners that need lots of current are fed by both phases. But what happens if the load between the phases isn't balanced? In this case, current flows along the neutral. As long as the ground bonding at the service entrance is correctly sized, the current flows to ground from the house's neutral there, but if there's a fault or severe imbalance, the current can flow to ground along the service drop. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Split-phase_electric_power
The bare conductor of the three (called triplex) is a neutral that carries one side of all of the unbalanced current. It connects to the center tap of the final utility transformer secondary. The entire secondary winding is a nominal 220 volts end to end. These two ends feed the two so-called "hot" buses in the house panel through the two insulated conductors of the triplex. The 110 volt circuits use one of those buses and the neutral conductor that I mentioned, since half of the secondary winding would be 110 volts. The 220 volt loads, like a dryer or a stove, use the two 'hot" conductors. All of this happens through the meter base and the circuit breakers in the panelboard.
Using a knife to remove the insulation and clean the conductor surface? Using a bolted connector for a neutral connection? They need to get rid of that open wire secondary wire. 😢
I'm not being funny but is that the finished connection? Because it looks like someone who has no idea what there doing has just lashed it up n though "that'll do" and then fucked off thinking to themselves "it ain't my house"
Strange, we do things differently over here in the UK. The cable from the street and the suppliers fuse (cutout) is owned by the distribution network so is all one cable to the cutout inside the house. The cable from the cutout to the meter and the meter is owned by whoever you choose as your electricity supplier and the cable from the meter to your fuseboard (consumer unit) is owned by the homeowner.
@@pklongutoobe This actually varies depending on state or specific power company. In some areas the weatherhead and the entrance cable and conduit is the power company's responsibility, in some areas it's not. The structural attachment to the home is typically not. For underground service, the power company is usually responsible for the riser and cable up to the meter box, but even then there are some utilities where even the lateral is the customer's responsibility.
they are running aluminum wire tri- plex to the weather head and copper from weather head to meter. more load or current at meter copper is better with higher amps
@@tonycepeda8054 : While Copper has a higher ampacity than Aluminum at the same wire size/gauge that is not the reason to use copper from the weather head down, they could also use Aluminum; the wire however from the weather head down has a lower effective ampacity for its size than the triplex drop used by the utility. The triplex is an open air wire and is rated, per NEC, to a much higher ampacity than the triple wire drop, in the conduit going from the weather head to the meter. For a 200 Amp service the typical utility drop is 1/0 AWG Aluminum, while the customer side is 4/0 AWG Aluminum or 2/0 AWG Copper assuming say THHN or RHH wire which, at least around me are the standards. You typically can also size down the neutral by 1-2 gauge steps; though with more and more sensitive electronics I wouldn’t recommend it. You could also use a non-metallicly sheathed cable (SE Cable - 2 insulated hot wires with uninsulated neutral strands wrapped around them all inside a cable jacket) from the weather head down. While I always use conduit, it just looks better, the go-to around me tends to be SE Cable.
jay willow I climbed poles and I’ve climbed trees for power line clearance and climbing trees is by far more work and more hard than going straight up a pole assisted by hooks.
@@dkta-568 I'd agree. It's more aggressive work. It feels alot better though when your hooks are in the tree an inch vs your hooks being in a pole 1/8 inch.
DKTA- I’ve done line clerance for 5 years. Before becoming a lineman, and let me tell you when you do linework those pants and long sleeve shirts are fire retardant they don’t breathe. And wearing rubber gloves and rubber sleeves were I work it’s a whole different world. Being extremely hot, and always dehydrated, and always paying attention not to get burned or flashed, way hotter than tree work been there done it.
I'm not sure why somebody made this video the way they made it you completely cut out the man making connections I mean you like skipped parts that to me is just what's the point of making the video then
@@danfromga9696 Depends on the company you work for i guess. We usually make the house end up completely before attaching it to the pole. He might be thinking that's what they were doing. But here we would wear rubbers either way. Some companies are real lax on wearing rubber gloves on storm.
I love these videos! It’s crazy to see how much different other power companies do their work.
Terrific presentation. Good description of the process. Gracias. Thanks, Jim
Спасибо. Было интересно посмотреть как работают за границей. +
Love these videos lol
see a lot of connections untaped or covered in drip around me. good to see it done right. at the pole do u see any water penetrations that will lower the life of equipment?
Tapping up on that open wire secondary.
Great job guys
great video
Never fails man 🤣 there’s no heat shrink on that tap
Great job!
Grounded rack nice
Get that Buck-squeeze out of there.....Just kidding. Great Job guys! There are no short cuts to experience.
from,
A Retired Pole dancer.
So the 1wire is for ground wire, 2 of them for the electricity ?
One wire is 0v (ground/neutral) and the other two are 110v on opposite phases, so if you connect across them you have 220v.
All 3 of the customer lines are for electricity, the difference is what direction the current (electrons) flows. The unshielded line is called Neutral and is bonded to ground at both the pole and the customer's service entrance. Current can, but usually doesn't flow on this line, but it's there for more than just structural reasons.
The other two lines (called phases) are "Hot" with respect to Neutral. Each phase is either pushing or pulling current relative to neutral at any given time. The trick is that while each phase is only pushing or pulling 110v relative to Neutral at any given time, they are synchronized with each other so that when one pushes, the other pulls.
Devices that draw a small amount of current are fed by just one phase, and larger devices like clothes dryers or air conditioners that need lots of current are fed by both phases. But what happens if the load between the phases isn't balanced? In this case, current flows along the neutral.
As long as the ground bonding at the service entrance is correctly sized, the current flows to ground from the house's neutral there, but if there's a fault or severe imbalance, the current can flow to ground along the service drop.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Split-phase_electric_power
The bare conductor of the three (called triplex) is a neutral that carries one side of all of the unbalanced current. It connects to the center tap of the final utility transformer secondary. The entire secondary winding is a nominal 220 volts end to end. These two ends feed the two so-called "hot" buses in the house panel through the two insulated conductors of the triplex. The 110 volt circuits use one of those buses and the neutral conductor that I mentioned, since half of the secondary winding would be 110 volts. The 220 volt loads, like a dryer or a stove, use the two 'hot" conductors. All of this happens through the meter base and the circuit breakers in the panelboard.
So many narrowbacks in here. It's 120/240. Stay inside boys
87_GN104 hahaha facts
Using a knife to remove the insulation and clean the conductor surface? Using a bolted connector for a neutral connection? They need to get rid of that open wire secondary wire. 😢
I'm not being funny but is that the finished connection?
Because it looks like someone who has no idea what there doing has just lashed it up n though "that'll do" and then fucked off thinking to themselves "it ain't my house"
слышал в Европе прям под напряжением работают)
Question, why have connections at the top of the weatherhead? Why not just continue the wire down to the meter box?
There needs to be a transition from the utility owned triplex to the private (homeowner) service entrance cables.
Strange, we do things differently over here in the UK. The cable from the street and the suppliers fuse (cutout) is owned by the distribution network so is all one cable to the cutout inside the house. The cable from the cutout to the meter and the meter is owned by whoever you choose as your electricity supplier and the cable from the meter to your fuseboard (consumer unit) is owned by the homeowner.
@@pklongutoobe This actually varies depending on state or specific power company. In some areas the weatherhead and the entrance cable and conduit is the power company's responsibility, in some areas it's not. The structural attachment to the home is typically not. For underground service, the power company is usually responsible for the riser and cable up to the meter box, but even then there are some utilities where even the lateral is the customer's responsibility.
they are running aluminum wire tri- plex to the weather head and copper from weather head to meter.
more load or current at meter
copper is better with higher amps
@@tonycepeda8054 : While Copper has a higher ampacity than Aluminum at the same wire size/gauge that is not the reason to use copper from the weather head down, they could also use Aluminum; the wire however from the weather head down has a lower effective ampacity for its size than the triplex drop used by the utility. The triplex is an open air wire and is rated, per NEC, to a much higher ampacity than the triple wire drop, in the conduit going from the weather head to the meter. For a 200 Amp service the typical utility drop is 1/0 AWG Aluminum, while the customer side is 4/0 AWG Aluminum or 2/0 AWG Copper assuming say THHN or RHH wire which, at least around me are the standards. You typically can also size down the neutral by 1-2 gauge steps; though with more and more sensitive electronics I wouldn’t recommend it. You could also use a non-metallicly sheathed cable (SE Cable - 2 insulated hot wires with uninsulated neutral strands wrapped around them all inside a cable jacket) from the weather head down. While I always use conduit, it just looks better, the go-to around me tends to be SE Cable.
Зачем на СИП троссовка?
That's WORK climbing. In the summer you'll be soaking wet, your clothes'll need be ringed out.
jay willow I climbed poles and I’ve climbed trees for power line clearance and climbing trees is by far more work and more hard than going straight up a pole assisted by hooks.
@@dkta-568 I'd agree. It's more aggressive work. It feels alot better though when your hooks are in the tree an inch vs your hooks being in a pole 1/8 inch.
DKTA- I’ve done line clerance for 5 years. Before becoming a lineman, and let me tell you when you do linework those pants and long sleeve shirts are fire retardant they don’t breathe. And wearing rubber gloves and rubber sleeves were I work it’s a whole different world. Being extremely hot, and always dehydrated, and always paying attention not to get burned or flashed, way hotter than tree work been there done it.
@@dkta-568 lmao tell us you couldn’t cut it as a lineman without telling us you couldn’t cut it as a lineman😂
I am from Russia, how can I connect with you? Are you in Facebook?
I'm not sure why somebody made this video the way they made it you completely cut out the man making connections I mean you like skipped parts that to me is just what's the point of making the video then
Geezuz. Stop already. You don't need rubber gloves if the lines aren't connected at the pole. Looks good on video.
That open wire is hot Jay
@@danfromga9696 Depends on the company you work for i guess. We usually make the house end up completely before attaching it to the pole. He might be thinking that's what they were doing. But here we would wear rubbers either way. Some companies are real lax on wearing rubber gloves on storm.