I'm so glad that you guys decided to make this first video, it was the start of something great! Great diagnosis, easy to follow and understand. Keep it up guys!
8 channels that is a lot of scope work, looking at wiring diagram, removing obstacles, hooking up leads..etc Wish u measured the time between first crank and the time it started, So we could correlate the scope pattern and actual cranking time. Great video, Thank u very much.
i have a small auto repair shop got into scopes about 2 years ago most of my repairs are simple. but do also do a lot of parasitic draw test. you really help a lot by explaining i watch a lot of videos on tech stuff Eric O, Ivan at pine hollow and many more glad i found your channel keep doing what you do and thanks i am in southeast Alabama
I gotta say to see a business put in the time to make the videos and channel to help and teach technicians to be better, I salute to you. So far your videos are great and in depth and impressively done on the spot rolling the camera practically doing it in one shoot, that’s harder than it looks. My favourite diagnostic channel is diagnosedan, but your shop has some very professional knowledgeable techs and I’m excited to have a new favourite channel to watch and learn from and aid my own diagnostic skills and approaches. Thank you to you and entire team! Glad to be one of the first subscribers cause if you keep this up you’ll have many in no time!
Thanks so much Jordan! We really appreciate that. We hope these videos get better and better! Diagnose Dan is great! We can all work together to improve the industry.
What a great video. Really like how you explain your thought process and diagnostic procedures. Makes it easy to understand for an old school tech (now advisor) who's trying to learn more about this stuff, so I can better help my newer young techs.
I love it. Simple BMW common problem, how ever its always better to know for sure than to assume it's the common issue and deal with a come back, repeat repair.
Really good video. Clear explanation of the process and logic. Please keep adding you videos, they help not only techs in the industry but also customers who can see there’s more to it then ‘code reading’. Great use of the scope! Wish I was still in the workshop!
Had the same issue on a chevy truck. Can't find these things without a scope, mine was not setting a code though. It took me a little while to narrow it down. Good video. Just found this channel. I'll subscribe, can never have enough information.
Your thought process is awesome. I like how through you are. It shows all the experience he has! Can't wait for your next videos. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Greetings from San Diego, CA
Great video. Nice to see somebody is using the Escope elite 8 channel. I have the 4 channel & i love it. Please post more videos using the Escope. Thank you
New subscriber.. greaaaat videoo.. very informative and educational..! I been a shop tech for 17 years and its always amazing to find content this good. I can relate too.. must be awesome to work there..
This is awesome, Im actually taking a automotive technician career and this is awesome to watch, always learning from people who is already in the industry… thanks and keep posting this cool videos… found you guys at tiktok
We wanted to do one but the client was in a hurry to get their car back and we didn’t have enough time. It ended up being a crankcase vent hose that was broken. They sell them in a kit on these older styles and it’s good to go. If you ever run into that problem we recommend replacing as the kit as they’re all the same age. 5 hours labor to do the job. Hope that helps and sorry we couldn’t get the video!
Hey guys! Love your tiktok page and found your TH-cam through that! I would highly suggest getting a mic setup for the guys so when you guys are making videos the audio is all the same so no highs and lows and that way background shop noise doesn't get in the video as bad! Cheers! You guys are awesome and wish I could come work for you guys!
We couldn't agree more! We got the mics and you'll see in our next video a huge improvement in the quality. And we think you'll love the next one. It's a BMW that has had 9 modules thrown at it by a client and we fixed it without replacing any parts. Stay tuned and thanks for your support!
ARE YOU GUYS GOING TO KEEP THE VIDEOS COMING ,,, I NOTICED YOU JUST START PUTTING UP VIDEOS . I ASKED BECAUSE YOUR VIDEOS ARE VERY INFORMATIVE I HAVE SUBSCRIBED SO I DON'T MISS ANY OF YOUR VIDEOS . THANKS FOR YOUR TIME 👍👍👍
Great video! Much respect for the master tech! Are you doing the diagnosis of the lean condition on that car? I am waiting for it along with half a dozen of my tech friends in the shop.
Ah man. We did it but the client was in a hurry to get it back and we didn’t have time to do a video. It was a crankcase vent hose. They’re very common. They sell it as a kit. We recommend doing all of them at the same time.
@@theroyaltyautoservice Thanks for sharing what was wrong. I find difficult to diagnose BMWs sometimes. I really wanted to watch how you do (see the steps you make) it and possibly learn with you. Anyways, I will be waiting for new videos. I wish you a great run on TH-cam and lots of success!
I have a 2001Volvo S80 that is having this exact problem. I originally was getting a CEL for the crank position sensor, so I replaced it. It started good a few time so I bought a new cps from FCP EURO but im still having issues so I have a small scope and some back probes im going to test the grounds and power do you know what scope settings you were using. I have a single channel I just want to get in the ball park.
Hi I’ve got the M54 engine with the same problem intermittent long cranking I’ve replaced the cam sensors before as they packed up. I used meyle ones do you think this could be my issue not using genuine bmw sensors?
You forgot one thing there Brother, you did not spread out the time to show a known good timing waveform where we could see the tooth count from the missing tooth section of the CKP, thanks for the explanation of the delayed start due partly from the unknown CAM SPACE.
Just out of curiosity how much do you guys charge for electronic diag per hour? You guys have some very knowledgeable techs and they are getting hard to find now a days.
It does vary based off the vehicle we are working on and the issues the vehicle is having. This was a pretty cut and dry diagnosis. It would run $199.99. Now the issue comes in when you have someone who has been throwing parts at it (stay tuned for next video which is wild). Those are not $199.99. They usually start at $500-600 to start so we can have time to get into it and not have to call the client over and over. When you’re good at what you do you should get paid for it and other shops need to understand that. And in the long run when you test not guess it saves the client money because they aren’t wasting money on parts they don’t need. Hope that makes sense!
@@Zachgregor422 great question! Haha. Professor was cold but it wasn’t freezing outside. So it was the only heater going. If it’s 40 or under the doors are down with multiple heaters going.
Great engineer, please help! Please help! Recently, a client called me to fix his 2000 Toyota Avalon car that cranked but wasn't starting. From the onset, the car experienced several mechanical, as well as, electrical issues. Some of those problems were:- (1) Engine Oil consumption; (2) Engine misfire; (3) Engine rattling; (4) Intermittent hard starting after shutdown; (5) Hard to engage in drive, except engine is hot; etc. Hence, he took the car to a garage inorder to rectify the excessive Engine oil consumption and other car problems highlighted above. Consequently, the car problems exacerbated after engine rebuild by the engineer! The car owner wasn't satisfied with his repairs because it seems the engineer was deceitful. Although the car started after the rebuild, the problems still persisted. Valves weren't grinded after engine overhaul, engine still misfired at idle and when accelerating, etc. The engineer whose garage the car is presently being parked, requested for another engine overhau/ rebuildl. After engine rebuild the car started, the oil was mixed with water; the engine was still misfiring, rattling, etc. It was obvious, that he didn't use durable parts to do his work. Hence, the car owner moved the car to another garage for better repairs. The new garage suggested to the car owner that another engine rebuild is pertinent for optimal engine operation. During my conversation with this engineer, whose garage the car is presently being parked, he told me that: "when the car was first brought in, he noticed a black smoke ( maybe he was mistaken for blue smoke, at exhaust tail at idle). When accelerating, there's a loss of power, engine bucking, popping,etc. After the rebuild, the car didn't start because the mechanic didn't unlock the car with the remote but proceeded directly to cranking the engine. In addition, the security relay wasn't actuated for starting to take place. Electrician did some wire cutting around that axis which he said was corrected to factory, opened with a remote before the car started. Fortunately, after everything, the car started again. But there was still an intermittent misfire. What the car owner said was that, 'even when the second mechanic did engine rebuild, the car still misfired. Until he personally bypassed earth from the COP wire to the solenoids very close to the fuel injector often tightened with 10mm knot and depicted with blue and green colors on the picture. Car owner verified that the reasons for the misfire from both mechanics which still prevailed, was due to the solenoid valve that wasn't opening. That's why when accelerating it experienced a loss of power, similar to that experienced by a faulty fuel pump. After gear oil replacement and test driven by the second mechanic , smoke started emanating from the engine bay. Precisely, from the fan relay that the car owner connected by himself. Within few minutes, the car shutdown by itself as if fuel is finished. As he tried to restart it, the car refused to. Infact, when the ignition switch was turned to Acc/ ignition position, battery and fuel light was not displaying in the dashboard/ instrument cluster. However, during cranking battery light glew faintly and start. But when throttled, it would shutdown. Electrician verified and replaced the alternator diode with a new one. When Ignition switch was turned to Acc/ ignition position, the battery and other lights came out brightly but when cranked to start engine wouldn't start again. Sadly, it still wouldn't start. I tried to scan for DTC codes, but my scanner wasn't communicating. I checked all fuses, power and ground at obd port, those checked ok. but my scanner isn't compatible to read CAN network. there are only 4 wires intact for the obd2 port. Furthermore, I added fuel through the intake to the engine, no change at all. I checked for spark and injector pulse. These things weren't present. But there was power to injector with just the key at ignition or ACC and COP had 1 ground and 1 power as usual. Electrician from that garage, who also worked on the car said that he sniffed burning smell from the ECU, however personally I didn't when I went to start the car. I don't know how certain that was. Hence, I pulled out the ECU to a laptop board engineer to test the components inside. He said: "everything looks ok and test fine, however the IC he doesn't have the right tools to proceed with the test. With the ECU removed battery connected, Engine light would come ON. with ECU connected check light still comes ON. Before I left, I checked the MAF sensor 5 wires and noticed that 3 wires were earth instead of 2 and 1 power; no ignition current/ power was available for the remaining 2 wires. Please, what should I do to start the car?
I'm so glad that you guys decided to make this first video, it was the start of something great! Great diagnosis, easy to follow and understand. Keep it up guys!
8 channels that is a lot of scope work, looking at wiring diagram, removing obstacles, hooking up leads..etc
Wish u measured the time between first crank and the time it started, So we could correlate the scope pattern and actual cranking time.
Great video, Thank u very much.
i have a small auto repair shop got into scopes about 2 years ago most of my repairs are simple. but do also do a lot of parasitic draw test. you really help a lot by explaining i watch a lot of videos on tech stuff Eric O, Ivan at pine hollow and many more glad i found your channel keep doing what you do and thanks i am in southeast Alabama
I gotta say to see a business put in the time to make the videos and channel to help and teach technicians to be better, I salute to you. So far your videos are great and in depth and impressively done on the spot rolling the camera practically doing it in one shoot, that’s harder than it looks. My favourite diagnostic channel is diagnosedan, but your shop has some very professional knowledgeable techs and I’m excited to have a new favourite channel to watch and learn from and aid my own diagnostic skills and approaches. Thank you to you and entire team! Glad to be one of the first subscribers cause if you keep this up you’ll have many in no time!
Thanks so much Jordan! We really appreciate that. We hope these videos get better and better! Diagnose Dan is great! We can all work together to improve the industry.
The way you were explaining it. I thought I was listening to Bernie. Excellent video, keep them coming.
Haha, I wish! He's at a completely different level. I really do appreciate the compliment though!
Thank you all. Good job. Have a blessed week to you and your family.
Anyone that uses an ATS scope is smarter than the average technician. Well done!
What a great video. Really like how you explain your thought process and diagnostic procedures. Makes it easy to understand for an old school tech (now advisor) who's trying to learn more about this stuff, so I can better help my newer young techs.
I love it. Simple BMW common problem, how ever its always better to know for sure than to assume it's the common issue and deal with a come back, repeat repair.
I am from india Big fan of your channel,thanks for sharing your grat knowledge.
Thanks Naushad! We appreciate you!
Really good video. Clear explanation of the process and logic. Please keep adding you videos, they help not only techs in the industry but also customers who can see there’s more to it then ‘code reading’. Great use of the scope! Wish I was still in the workshop!
The grandmaster Tech knows his stuff 💪🏽
Top notch diagnostic right here thanks for sharing
Had the same issue on a chevy truck. Can't find these things without a scope, mine was not setting a code though. It took me a little while to narrow it down. Good video. Just found this channel. I'll subscribe, can never have enough information.
Your thought process is awesome. I like how through you are. It shows all the experience he has! Can't wait for your next videos. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Greetings from San Diego, CA
Great job for your first video.
Sherwood Targaryen!! The shop name says it all! 🙌🏼
Definitely love the content, Sherwood.
Great video. Nice to see somebody is using the Escope elite 8 channel. I have the 4 channel & i love it. Please post more videos using the Escope. Thank you
Great video! Thanks for sharing. Scopes fix vehicles!!
New subscriber.. greaaaat videoo.. very informative and educational..! I been a shop tech for 17 years and its always amazing to find content this good. I can relate too.. must be awesome to work there..
amazing video and detailed congratulations keep it up. greetings from greece
Really nice video, Thanks!
I really hate European cars but I love diag videos and this channel is going to be awesome, keep up the great work.
This is awesome, Im actually taking a automotive technician career and this is awesome to watch, always learning from people who is already in the industry… thanks and keep posting this cool videos… found you guys at tiktok
That’s awesome Victor! If you ever need anything along the way make sure to reach out! 😊
Love it... I hope u keep uploading regularly
We should have 3-4 videos a week give or take!
the professor at work
Must be nice having an 8 chan scope. Those ATS can do quite a lot.. Nice shop too
Great video, dude! New subscriber! English is not my mother tongue, but I get you 100% thank you! Keep up the great work!
Viewer from Malaysia
Good video,good content
Keep up.
Excellent video. A lot of great tips. Thank you. Would love to see the video on fuel trims.
We wanted to do one but the client was in a hurry to get their car back and we didn’t have enough time. It ended up being a crankcase vent hose that was broken. They sell them in a kit on these older styles and it’s good to go. If you ever run into that problem we recommend replacing as the kit as they’re all the same age. 5 hours labor to do the job. Hope that helps and sorry we couldn’t get the video!
Excellent education
Hey guys! Love your tiktok page and found your TH-cam through that! I would highly suggest getting a mic setup for the guys so when you guys are making videos the audio is all the same so no highs and lows and that way background shop noise doesn't get in the video as bad! Cheers! You guys are awesome and wish I could come work for you guys!
We couldn't agree more! We got the mics and you'll see in our next video a huge improvement in the quality. And we think you'll love the next one. It's a BMW that has had 9 modules thrown at it by a client and we fixed it without replacing any parts. Stay tuned and thanks for your support!
What is the TikTok channel name?
@@saiedabushadi4012 royaltyautoservice
Bernie Thompson wants to scope back. Lol good video
ARE YOU GUYS GOING TO KEEP THE VIDEOS COMING ,,, I NOTICED YOU JUST START PUTTING UP VIDEOS . I ASKED BECAUSE YOUR VIDEOS ARE VERY INFORMATIVE I HAVE SUBSCRIBED SO I DON'T MISS ANY OF YOUR VIDEOS . THANKS FOR YOUR TIME 👍👍👍
That's the plan!
Great content.
Great video
Excelente video. Bastante explicativo!
Fuel trims could be O2 sensors.
Great video! Much respect for the master tech!
Are you doing the diagnosis of the lean condition on that car? I am waiting for it along with half a dozen of my tech friends in the shop.
Ah man. We did it but the client was in a hurry to get it back and we didn’t have time to do a video. It was a crankcase vent hose. They’re very common. They sell it as a kit. We recommend doing all of them at the same time.
@@theroyaltyautoservice Thanks for sharing what was wrong. I find difficult to diagnose BMWs sometimes. I really wanted to watch how you do (see the steps you make) it and possibly learn with you. Anyways, I will be waiting for new videos. I wish you a great run on TH-cam and lots of success!
@@henrytav Yes check out our most recent video on a BMW! You’ll enjoy!
What would be a plus is showing us changing the part or parts when diagnosing it
Needs more n more videos brother
They’re coming! Thanks for subscribing!
That yellow cop coil probe were is from? I saw a video you mentioned but cant find it.
I have a 2001Volvo S80 that is having this exact problem. I originally was getting a CEL for the crank position sensor, so I replaced it. It started good a few time so I bought a new cps from FCP EURO but im still having issues so I have a small scope and some back probes im going to test the grounds and power do you know what scope settings you were using. I have a single channel I just want to get in the ball park.
Hi I’ve got the M54 engine with the same problem intermittent long cranking I’ve replaced the cam sensors before as they packed up. I used meyle ones do you think this could be my issue not using genuine bmw sensors?
Thank you 😊
This guy reminds me of the Witcher lol great stuff guys 👍
Sweet 👏👏
Hi i have a question for you how u install ISTA software on Samsung tablet please let me know thanks
You forgot one thing there Brother, you did not spread out the time to show a known good timing waveform where we could see the tooth count from the missing tooth section of the CKP, thanks for the explanation of the delayed start due partly from the unknown CAM SPACE.
Where r u fols located actually
Just out of curiosity how much do you guys charge for electronic diag per hour? You guys have some very knowledgeable techs and they are getting hard to find now a days.
It does vary based off the vehicle we are working on and the issues the vehicle is having. This was a pretty cut and dry diagnosis. It would run $199.99. Now the issue comes in when you have someone who has been throwing parts at it (stay tuned for next video which is wild). Those are not $199.99. They usually start at $500-600 to start so we can have time to get into it and not have to call the client over and over. When you’re good at what you do you should get paid for it and other shops need to understand that. And in the long run when you test not guess it saves the client money because they aren’t wasting money on parts they don’t need. Hope that makes sense!
@@theroyaltyautoservice 100% Agree on the billing strategy
Awesome informative knowledge!! Also nice looking shop. Just have to ask. What’s with the propane heater on with all the doors wide open lol ?
@@Zachgregor422 great question! Haha. Professor was cold but it wasn’t freezing outside. So it was the only heater going. If it’s 40 or under the doors are down with multiple heaters going.
@@theroyaltyautoservice 😂
Is this guy the real Witcher. Jk. Great info guys.
👍👍👍
So much education here if you do not pay attention that’s not his fault
Just had this issue with my Mercedes W210, and issue turned out to be old spark plug wires 😅
When a grey beard speaks, you listen. In this case I just have to imagine the beard.
Great engineer, please help!
Please help!
Recently, a client called me to fix his 2000 Toyota Avalon car that cranked but wasn't starting.
From the onset, the car experienced several mechanical, as well as, electrical issues. Some of those problems were:-
(1) Engine Oil consumption;
(2) Engine misfire;
(3) Engine rattling;
(4) Intermittent hard starting after shutdown;
(5) Hard to engage in drive, except engine is hot; etc.
Hence, he took the car to a garage inorder to rectify the excessive Engine oil consumption and other car problems highlighted above. Consequently, the car problems exacerbated after engine rebuild by the engineer!
The car owner wasn't satisfied with his repairs because it seems the engineer was deceitful. Although the car started after the rebuild, the problems still persisted. Valves weren't grinded after engine overhaul, engine still misfired at idle and when accelerating, etc.
The engineer whose garage the car is presently being parked, requested for another engine overhau/ rebuildl. After engine rebuild the car started, the oil was mixed with water; the engine was still misfiring, rattling, etc. It was obvious, that he didn't use durable parts to do his work.
Hence, the car owner moved the car to another garage for better repairs. The new garage suggested to the car owner that another engine rebuild is pertinent for optimal engine operation.
During my conversation with this engineer, whose garage the car is presently being parked, he told me that: "when the car was first brought in, he noticed a black smoke ( maybe he was mistaken for blue smoke, at exhaust tail at idle). When accelerating, there's a loss of power, engine bucking, popping,etc. After the rebuild, the car didn't start because the mechanic didn't unlock the car with the remote but proceeded directly to cranking the engine. In addition, the security relay wasn't actuated for starting to take place. Electrician did some wire cutting around that axis which he said was corrected to factory, opened with a remote before the car started.
Fortunately, after everything, the car started again. But there was still an intermittent misfire. What the car owner said was that, 'even when the second mechanic did engine rebuild, the car still misfired. Until he personally bypassed earth from the COP wire to the solenoids very close to the fuel injector often tightened with 10mm knot and depicted with blue and green colors on the picture. Car owner verified that the reasons for the misfire from both mechanics which still prevailed, was due to the solenoid valve that wasn't opening. That's why when accelerating it experienced a loss of power, similar to that experienced by a faulty fuel pump.
After gear oil replacement and test driven by the second mechanic , smoke started emanating from the engine bay. Precisely, from the fan relay that the car owner connected by himself. Within few minutes, the car shutdown by itself as if fuel is finished. As he tried to restart it, the car refused to. Infact, when the ignition switch was turned to Acc/ ignition position, battery and fuel light was not displaying in the dashboard/ instrument cluster. However, during cranking battery light glew faintly and start. But when throttled, it would shutdown. Electrician verified and replaced the alternator diode with a new one. When Ignition switch was turned to Acc/ ignition position, the battery and other lights came out brightly but when cranked to start engine wouldn't start again. Sadly, it still wouldn't start.
I tried to scan for DTC codes, but my scanner wasn't communicating. I checked all fuses, power and ground at obd port, those checked ok. but my scanner isn't compatible to read CAN network. there are only 4 wires intact for the obd2 port.
Furthermore, I added fuel through the intake to the engine, no change at all. I checked for spark and injector pulse. These things weren't present. But there was power to injector with just the key at ignition or ACC and COP had 1 ground and 1 power as usual.
Electrician from that garage, who also worked on the car said that he sniffed burning smell from the ECU, however personally I didn't when I went to start the car. I don't know how certain that was. Hence, I pulled out the ECU to a laptop board engineer to test the components inside. He said: "everything looks ok and test fine, however the IC he doesn't have the right tools to proceed with the test. With the ECU removed battery connected, Engine light would come ON. with ECU connected check light still comes ON.
Before I left, I checked the MAF sensor 5 wires and noticed that 3 wires were earth instead of 2 and 1 power; no ignition current/ power was available for the remaining 2 wires.
Please, what should I do to start the car?
That's a M54 not N52
Elevation can make the engine lose power
Great job sir