Oh man!! This has been an enjoyable ride watching you noodle your way through this engine!! A little background on me... I was a Corvair mechanic back in the 1960s at a large Chevrolet dealership in the Detroit area. This is the way I paid for myself to attend college to eventually become an electrical engineer EE. Now retired and still do much of my own automobile maintenance. It has been sixty years since I worked on Corvairs but watching you brought back a flood of memories. When you broke that head stud, the look on your face made me laugh right out loud as I had been in that dark place myself before. The difference is that you had the time to wait. Back in the day, I had only so much time to get the job completed (we were paid by job tickets and a particular job had a time element - you had to complete the job in the time alotted or you got screamed at by the Service Manager and it affected your pay). These engines all leaked oil at the push rod tubes causing the heated air in the cabin to have a smoky oil smell. In addition, most rear main seals leaked causing the clutch to be oil soaked. Beware, the exhaust manifolds used french locks to keep the bolts from becoming loose. Use them on reassembly or you may have exhaust gases in the cabin (not good). One more thing...the refurbed mechanical fuel pumps back in the day were frequently assembled with the valves installed backwards. This would cause the gas to be pumped out of the carburetor float bowls back to the fuel tank instead of vice-versa. You had to take the pump apart and reinstall the valves properly (fairly easy to do but took time and was a PITA). I understand that now most people use electric fuel pumps because the old ones would quickly deteriorate with unleaded fuel (you may want to check on this). Oh yes, head gaskets frequently blew on the engines and frequently burnt and destroyed the top of the cylinder as they were thin and didn't have good horizontal width (despite the encapsulation by the head). Good luck and thanks for the memories!!
You’re doing great with this! Everyone has little setbacks but it’s the drive to keep it going forward that makes you the man! I’ve always heard being a good carpenter isn’t about not making mistakes it’s about hiding them well enough that no one knows that you messed up. I suppose that applies to mechanics as well
WARNING! At 27:10 in the video, you mentioned that you had to scrounge up some extra washers for the bell housing bolts. This is a MISTAKE. The top five bolts had washers, but the bottom four DO NOT! Leaving those washers in place will interfere with the flywheel rotation, once it is installed. If this were a Powerglide car, it probably wouldn't make a difference, but for a manual transmission car, it is critical. Two other things: I have found it much easier to install the oil pan by standing the engine up on the bell housing. Also, when torqueing up the oil pan bolts, you'll notice that the bolts will "dish" the sheet metal of the pan (that is, make the metal concave) so that the sheet metal at the bolt holes contacts the crankcase before the rest of the sealing surface. I deal with this by taking a small ball peen hammer and striking the holes from the topside, reversing the concavity. This ensures that the sealing surface makes contact around the whole perimeter, reducing the likelihood of leaks. I speak from experience, having built more than a dozen Corvair engines. Oh, your comment about the "folded fin" oil cooler is quite correct- I notice you have a "three plate" oil cooler, used only on early (145CID) low-power engines. If you cannot find the folded fin cooler (also known as the "Harrison" oil cooler, as "Harrison" is stamped on it) there are also eight plate coolers (used on late (164CID) lower power engines (95 and 110HP motors) and twelve plate oil coolers, used on late turbos and 140HP motors. Any of these will give you MUCH more oil cooling. There is also available, a side cover for the oil coolers, made of sheet metal, that prevents the cooling air from leaking out the side. I think Clark's has them available. The originals were made by Chevrolet.
I hope it’s not too late in your reassembly process, but ones the time to get away from the most inefficient oil cooler Chevy put on a Corvair. So you don’t need to change the shrouds I’d highly recommend the folded fin version. It’s what was on the first two years of Corvairs and is known to be the most efficient. Get the book How to hot rod Corvairs from Clarks. It talks a lot about this.
The 4 lower bolts of the bell housing don't typically use washers, though if you had some real thin ones that might be ok. Bolt heads 'may' interfere with the flywheel.
MY first 'Vair rebuild I did not use locktite on those bottom bolts that have no washer and they DID back out and strike the flywheel @@SealedBeamRallyTeam
I would look into the deflashing the heads, it will greatly increase the cooling ability as most of your hear is from the heads. Also you should either have the exhaust manifolds ceramic coated or there is exhaust metal sheet you can wrap around the logs.
@@SealedBeamRallyTeam I’m dreading torquing the head bolts. My car is a 110 hp 4 speed and when I took off the heads 5 head studs came loose. Planning to add loctite and run the studs same distance as the others. Fingers crossed. 🤞
@@crownmoldingbyspectaculart941 They probably will want to go way deeper than they were before they backed out. I would go straight to .030" over studs. They come with loctite 271.
The "some kind of splash guard" is generally known as an 'oil slinger'. It promotes oil to not collect around the crank seal, making leaks less likely.
That rear pulley seal went in way too easy, hope it doesn't leak. And Clark's recommends grease on that seal? Never heard that, I always use Ultra Copper silicone sealant there, and mine was loose like yours so I added a strip of shim stock around the OD to snug it up.
i know its been a year but you Dont use Washers on the bottom 4 bolts of the bell housing! the boltheads will stick out enough to hit the clutch/flywheel. see28:40 of the video
You MUST go back and install the air baffles that reside under the cylinders but (sadly) above the pushrod tubes. You will find the rusty weirdly shaped tin somewhere in your engine parts bin. Good luck, sorry about the "inch-pounds VS foot pounds" thing.
You don't want washers on the bottom 4 bellhousing bolts, they'll hit the flywheel. I've been enjoying your videos, I have a '62 Monza, with a 102/4 speed. my engine is stuck. I may have to disassemble the top end to get it loose.
Thank you! I was wondering why i was "missing" washers. If I may, give that engine some heat and ATF! If you can get it unstuck, you can get new jugs like i did.
@@SealedBeamRallyTeam, I sprayed it full of Kroil, and filled the cylinders with Marvel's Mystery oil, It's soaking right now. When I bought the car, the owner told me he'd spent $800 on a rebuild in 1983 and had less than 10,000 miles on it. I'm hoping I can break it loose, replace some seals, and run it. It was free when I bought it, but has stuck in the meantime.
That is generous of you! I would really appreciate it! Address is Tyler Linner PO Box 465 Stillwater MN 55082 Thank you again! I'll send you stickers or something!
4 plate oil cooler is not good. Get an 8 plate cooler to put on it. 4 plate coolers are not even good for 80hp models. I could tell you that the air door bellows were good without heating them up. when they go bad they expand to full open. They were designed that way. So when they are contracted like yours they are good to go. Do not powder coat them. I love POR15. Nothing like preventing future rust and keeping it long-lasting.
I’ve watched ‘Dave Motörhead’s’ videos and he suggests getting rid of that three finned oil cooler and replace it with an eight finned cooler from the later years Corvair. A three finned oil cooler is basically useless. 🫤
Please replace that cooler it is the worst. Also the the pan bolt torque you’ve used is for a paper gasket. It will cut the cork gasket. You can see the gasket pooch out at every bolt. You are doing a good job, there are a lot of things to know.
Oh man!! This has been an enjoyable ride watching you noodle your way through this engine!! A little background on me... I was a Corvair mechanic back in the 1960s at a large Chevrolet dealership in the Detroit area. This is the way I paid for myself to attend college to eventually become an electrical engineer EE. Now retired and still do much of my own automobile maintenance. It has been sixty years since I worked on Corvairs but watching you brought back a flood of memories. When you broke that head stud, the look on your face made me laugh right out loud as I had been in that dark place myself before. The difference is that you had the time to wait. Back in the day, I had only so much time to get the job completed (we were paid by job tickets and a particular job had a time element - you had to complete the job in the time alotted or you got screamed at by the Service Manager and it affected your pay). These engines all leaked oil at the push rod tubes causing the heated air in the cabin to have a smoky oil smell. In addition, most rear main seals leaked causing the clutch to be oil soaked. Beware, the exhaust manifolds used french locks to keep the bolts from becoming loose. Use them on reassembly or you may have exhaust gases in the cabin (not good). One more thing...the refurbed mechanical fuel pumps back in the day were frequently assembled with the valves installed backwards. This would cause the gas to be pumped out of the carburetor float bowls back to the fuel tank instead of vice-versa. You had to take the pump apart and reinstall the valves properly (fairly easy to do but took time and was a PITA). I understand that now most people use electric fuel pumps because the old ones would quickly deteriorate with unleaded fuel (you may want to check on this). Oh yes, head gaskets frequently blew on the engines and frequently burnt and destroyed the top of the cylinder as they were thin and didn't have good horizontal width (despite the encapsulation by the head). Good luck and thanks for the memories!!
You’re doing great with this! Everyone has little setbacks but it’s the drive to keep it going forward that makes you the man! I’ve always heard being a good carpenter isn’t about not making mistakes it’s about hiding them well enough that no one knows that you messed up. I suppose that applies to mechanics as well
The center bolts for the bell housing need sealer as they protrude into the crankcase. Love the vids, keep it up!
WARNING! At 27:10 in the video, you mentioned that you had to scrounge up some extra washers for the bell housing bolts. This is a MISTAKE. The top five bolts had washers, but the bottom four DO NOT! Leaving those washers in place will interfere with the flywheel rotation, once it is installed. If this were a Powerglide car, it probably wouldn't make a difference, but for a manual transmission car, it is critical.
Two other things: I have found it much easier to install the oil pan by standing the engine up on the bell housing. Also, when torqueing up the oil pan bolts, you'll notice that the bolts will "dish" the sheet metal of the pan (that is, make the metal concave) so that the sheet metal at the bolt holes contacts the crankcase before the rest of the sealing surface. I deal with this by taking a small ball peen hammer and striking the holes from the topside, reversing the concavity. This ensures that the sealing surface makes contact around the whole perimeter, reducing the likelihood of leaks.
I speak from experience, having built more than a dozen Corvair engines.
Oh, your comment about the "folded fin" oil cooler is quite correct- I notice you have a "three plate" oil cooler, used only on early (145CID) low-power engines. If you cannot find the folded fin cooler (also known as the "Harrison" oil cooler, as "Harrison" is stamped on it) there are also eight plate coolers (used on late (164CID) lower power engines (95 and 110HP motors) and twelve plate oil coolers, used on late turbos and 140HP motors. Any of these will give you MUCH more oil cooling. There is also available, a side cover for the oil coolers, made of sheet metal, that prevents the cooling air from leaking out the side. I think Clark's has them available. The originals were made by Chevrolet.
I hope it’s not too late in your reassembly process, but ones the time to get away from the most inefficient oil cooler Chevy put on a Corvair. So you don’t need to change the shrouds I’d highly recommend the folded fin version. It’s what was on the first two years of Corvairs and is known to be the most efficient. Get the book How to hot rod Corvairs from Clarks. It talks a lot about this.
Great work on the engine!
The 4 lower bolts of the bell housing don't typically use washers, though if you had some real thin ones that might be ok. Bolt heads 'may' interfere with the flywheel.
Thank you! Very useful info! Now it makes sense why i was "missing" washers.
MY first 'Vair rebuild I did not use locktite on those bottom bolts that have no washer and they DID back out and strike the flywheel @@SealedBeamRallyTeam
I would look into the deflashing the heads, it will greatly increase the cooling ability as most of your hear is from the heads. Also you should either have the exhaust manifolds ceramic coated or there is exhaust metal sheet you can wrap around the logs.
Your series on the corvair has been real helpful. I pulled the heads on mine and I’m referring to your videos as I go.
Glad to hear that! I hope you are able to avoid the mistakes I made, and instead create your own, unique mistakes. 😜
@@SealedBeamRallyTeam I’m dreading torquing the head bolts. My car is a 110 hp 4 speed and when I took off the heads 5 head studs came loose. Planning to add loctite and run the studs same distance as the others. Fingers crossed. 🤞
@@crownmoldingbyspectaculart941 They probably will want to go way deeper than they were before they backed out. I would go straight to .030" over studs. They come with loctite 271.
You doing a great job on that motor!
The "some kind of splash guard" is generally known as an 'oil slinger'. It promotes oil to not collect around the crank seal, making leaks less likely.
Thanks! That makes sense.
That rear pulley seal went in way too easy, hope it doesn't leak. And Clark's recommends grease on that seal? Never heard that, I always use Ultra Copper silicone sealant there, and mine was loose like yours so I added a strip of shim stock around the OD to snug it up.
🤞
@ 9 : 41 that piece goes on the bottom center ( covers crank pulley )
i know its been a year but you Dont use Washers on the bottom 4 bolts of the bell housing! the boltheads will stick out enough to hit the clutch/flywheel. see28:40 of the video
You MUST go back and install the air baffles that reside under the cylinders but (sadly) above the pushrod tubes. You will find the rusty weirdly shaped tin somewhere in your engine parts bin. Good luck, sorry about the "inch-pounds VS foot pounds" thing.
Yep, waiting for the full shroud video to go over the baffle situation! Thanks for the reminder!
Did you record the reinstall of the engine and specifically doing the lower and upper shrouds and body/engine seal?
Working on the shrouds this week!
We need stickers featuring your different vehicles.
Fun idea! I will look at doing this
You don't want washers on the bottom 4 bellhousing bolts, they'll hit the flywheel. I've been enjoying your videos, I have a '62 Monza, with a 102/4 speed. my engine is stuck. I may have to disassemble the top end to get it loose.
Thank you! I was wondering why i was "missing" washers.
If I may, give that engine some heat and ATF! If you can get it unstuck, you can get new jugs like i did.
@@SealedBeamRallyTeam, I sprayed it full of Kroil, and filled the cylinders with Marvel's Mystery oil, It's soaking right now. When I bought the car, the owner told me he'd spent $800 on a rebuild in 1983 and had less than 10,000 miles on it. I'm hoping I can break it loose, replace some seals, and run it. It was free when I bought it, but has stuck in the meantime.
what is and where do you get the yellow "pen" you use to mark things done?
I got it in the welding section at NAPA
thanks!@@SealedBeamRallyTeam
What are the specs on your motor? Thanks
Stock
Nice! ❤ Scrap the OEM pushrod driven fuel pump… thank me later.
I just looked and I have an 8 plate cooler you can have. Let me know an address and I will send it to you no charge. 😊
That is generous of you! I would really appreciate it! Address is
Tyler Linner
PO Box 465
Stillwater MN 55082
Thank you again! I'll send you stickers or something!
This a nice rehearsal for when I get a Corvair again…it’s been a long time
@@SealedBeamRallyTeam
Tyler, I am dropping it at the post office today. I threw in some other goodies I hope you will enjoy. Sam
@@spyderman1964 Thank you! I look forward to it!
4 plate oil cooler is not good. Get an 8 plate cooler to put on it. 4 plate coolers are not even good for 80hp models. I could tell you that the air door bellows were good without heating them up. when they go bad they expand to full open. They were designed that way. So when they are contracted like yours they are good to go. Do not powder coat them. I love POR15. Nothing like preventing future rust and keeping it long-lasting.
I could tell the bellows were good before you tested them. When they fail, they're in the expanded state. Be gentile with them, they seem fragile.
Good to know
Don’t fall in the “it’s new so it must be better” trap. Those 60 year old thermostats are much better quality than reproduction ones.
I agree. But things sometimes wear out as well. Thankfully it appears these are good to go.
STOP! Go back to the book on mounting the bell housing. It’s critical you use no washers on certain bolts or they will contact and rub on flywheel.
I’ve watched ‘Dave Motörhead’s’ videos and he suggests getting rid of that three finned oil cooler and replace it with an eight finned cooler from the later years Corvair. A three finned oil cooler is basically useless. 🫤
Excellent. Goal 1, get it driving. Can always upgrade to a nicer cooler later, and probably will. But! Drive first.
Please replace that cooler it is the worst. Also the the pan bolt torque you’ve used is for a paper gasket. It will cut the cork gasket. You can see the gasket pooch out at every bolt. You are doing a good job, there are a lot of things to know.
@@SealedBeamRallyTeam Yes, absolutely 👍😊