Thanks, Phil! I just made a post with some updated pictures of my current progress (pastels on and sealed with a clear coat for decals). Let me know what you think so far. Cheers!
I like trying very subtle weathering and this technique looks good. One issue I find that would be worth covering is what the level of lighting is when the subtle weathering is applied, I can get a good effect then change lighting (eg daylight to artificial light) and it can all disappear from view, or the opposite where something subtle can look too harsh in brighter light. The trick seems to be to work in the light level that the model is likely to be displayed in.
Great point, Rob! This is an easy technique to apply, but it takes time to master. Lighting definitely impacts the appearance of the weathering. Cheers!
Good morning 🌞 From OHIO…… Was looking forward to this… I will be Buying some PASTELS Today, ( Hobby Lobby ) …. You couldn’t see PANEL LINES when you first started, after you did everything the BF 109 had more Depth / Details with just using the Pastels…. I’m going to try this Technique today… The Vintage MONOGRAM ZERO I’m working on is a great Practice Kit… It will still look good, BUT it will work great with this PASTEL TECHNIQUE…. glad I tuned in, You explained the process very well / simple Yes, this video was ENTERTAINING and INFORMATIVE. 😊 Going to a TOY FAIR this morning, ROSSFORD,OHIO…. Usually have some deals on Vintage Plastic Models… OTAKI, FUJIMI NICHIMO, MONOGRAM, REVELL…. Hopefully I find something Have a GREAT SATURDAY MODEL ON……………. CHRIS🇺🇸
Right on, Chris! The pastels work well over raised or recessed rivet and panel line detail as well. One note - you can go darker with pastels but not lighter. So, if you lighten your base coat just a little, it looks like naturally faded paint in combination with the pastels. I change the pastel color depending on the paint color. I think you'll like the technique! Cheers!
Interesting demonstration. I'm glad to see few people build the Hasegawa Me-109s anymore, even as a demonstrator for basic surface details... My contempt for their inaccurate shapes is really infinite. Which is weird: Few agree with me how bad they are, yet they still stopped doing builds of them... That being said, the ICM kit is well behind the Zvezda, despite the Zvezda being just as plain in surface details. The Eduard looks good but has really, REALLY long legs (2 mm excess, and NOT in the oleo compression, not to mention the same skinny F legs on all the Gs), and is also a little deep in the tail, particularly near the fin. Zvezda's F and Tamiya's G have the correct sit and tail depth. Tamiya also has the only correct G windscreen heavy framing, so it really is far ahead.
Very nice technique. I must admit I’ve never tried pastels and only recently purchased some weathering dust from Vallejo, which im assuming, is pretty much the same thing. Can’t wait to give it a try and she’s looking good! Thanks!
Hello Jon, excellent video and description of the pastel technique, I must say that it seems quite good to me, I have applied something similar with dry pigments and I dilute them until I achieve the effect, however here you have a very interesting job to replicate, in In the case of the ICM bf 109, I have learned to edging with them, that means that the first attempts have not been the best, but I have managed to improve, however my best example suffered an unfortunate accident, it fell and I stepped on it, it shattered, but I have another saved to see if I reply hahahaha, greetings and one last question, to send you my progress (it is somewhat slow) of the FW 190 D9 Eduard, greetings and until the next video.
Thanks, Francisco! I'm sorry to hear about the shattered 109! If you want to send pictures of your progress, you can send them to my email: jonsmotorcycle@hotmail.com Cheers!
Although I have seen similar use of pastels in modeling, this idea of using it as a substitute for scribing and riveting shows some promise. Enough , so that I will give this on a try soon. I especially thought the 109 looked better after the pastels were toned down. I would also be interested in seeing how this appears after application of clear coats. My limited experience with pigments and clear coats has had mixed results. If applied lightly, they tend to disappear while if applied heavily, they are somewhat muted but still very much visible. So perhaps this is a matter of practicing with different levels of reducing the muting before applying the clear coats.
You bring up good points, Carl. The effect of the pastels can change with subsequent clear coats. I do a final refinement of the effect after the final clear coat is on. As with any technique, practice and experimentation will pay off in the end. Cheers!
Nice primary paint color, looks like pastels could go a lot further than lots of paint and offers more variety. Let us know if the gloss and flat spray dissolve the pastel details Standing by , Bob
Just put the last decals on. Even if the flat coat tones it down too much, I can add more afterward. I usually do a bit more weathering as a final step until I'm happy with the results. I'll keep you posted.
You can go darker than the base paint color with the pastels but not lighter if you want to seal them afterward. For example, on the lighter tan of this kit, I used a darker brown. For olive or dark green paint, I use black pastels. I seal mine with Future as a clear coat.
You forgot to mention how you seal it. Saying I'm going to give is a clear coat is not enough information. Pastels are notorious for becoming grainy, darkening and for making light colors disappear. You would have to be very specific on what type of clear coat, and if it is an alcohol based clear.
Great point, Wayne! There is more info to cover, so I'll post a follow-up video soon. I use Future to seal the pastels in preparation for decals. There are some other "rules" to keep in mind with the pastels as well. Cheers!
Excellent tutorial. Very versatile technique. I tend to use Tamiya’s weathering master but pastels are definitely cheaper. Keep up these tutorials!
Thank you!
Looking forward to seeing the finished job to see how the subsequent weathering and clear coats affect the pastel work Jon.
Thanks, Phil! I just made a post with some updated pictures of my current progress (pastels on and sealed with a clear coat for decals). Let me know what you think so far. Cheers!
Very cool. Will have to give this approach a try.
Right on, Dan!
I like trying very subtle weathering and this technique looks good.
One issue I find that would be worth covering is what the level of lighting is when the subtle weathering is applied, I can get a good effect then change lighting (eg daylight to artificial light) and it can all disappear from view, or the opposite where something subtle can look too harsh in brighter light. The trick seems to be to work in the light level that the model is likely to be displayed in.
Great point, Rob! This is an easy technique to apply, but it takes time to master. Lighting definitely impacts the appearance of the weathering. Cheers!
Good morning 🌞
From OHIO……
Was looking forward to this…
I will be Buying some PASTELS
Today, ( Hobby Lobby ) ….
You couldn’t see PANEL LINES
when you first started, after you did everything the BF 109 had more Depth / Details with just using the Pastels….
I’m going to try this Technique today…
The Vintage MONOGRAM ZERO I’m working on is a great Practice Kit…
It will still look good, BUT it will work great with this
PASTEL TECHNIQUE….
glad I tuned in, You explained the process very well / simple
Yes, this video was
ENTERTAINING and
INFORMATIVE. 😊
Going to a TOY FAIR this morning, ROSSFORD,OHIO….
Usually have some deals on Vintage Plastic Models…
OTAKI, FUJIMI NICHIMO,
MONOGRAM, REVELL….
Hopefully I find something
Have a GREAT SATURDAY
MODEL ON…………….
CHRIS🇺🇸
Right on, Chris! The pastels work well over raised or recessed rivet and panel line detail as well. One note - you can go darker with pastels but not lighter. So, if you lighten your base coat just a little, it looks like naturally faded paint in combination with the pastels. I change the pastel color depending on the paint color. I think you'll like the technique! Cheers!
Interesting demonstration. I'm glad to see few people build the Hasegawa Me-109s anymore, even as a demonstrator for basic surface details... My contempt for their inaccurate shapes is really infinite. Which is weird: Few agree with me how bad they are, yet they still stopped doing builds of them... That being said, the ICM kit is well behind the Zvezda, despite the Zvezda being just as plain in surface details. The Eduard looks good but has really, REALLY long legs (2 mm excess, and NOT in the oleo compression, not to mention the same skinny F legs on all the Gs), and is also a little deep in the tail, particularly near the fin. Zvezda's F and Tamiya's G have the correct sit and tail depth. Tamiya also has the only correct G windscreen heavy framing, so it really is far ahead.
Good to know, thanks!
Very nice technique. I must admit I’ve never tried pastels and only recently purchased some weathering dust from Vallejo, which im assuming, is pretty much the same thing. Can’t wait to give it a try and she’s looking good! Thanks!
Thanks! I think you will like the pastels if you give them a go. Cheers!
Good tips Jon! 👍😉
Thanks!
I’ve got to try this method.!..Thank you👍
You're welcome!
Hello Jon, excellent video and description of the pastel technique, I must say that it seems quite good to me, I have applied something similar with dry pigments and I dilute them until I achieve the effect, however here you have a very interesting job to replicate, in In the case of the ICM bf 109, I have learned to edging with them, that means that the first attempts have not been the best, but I have managed to improve, however my best example suffered an unfortunate accident, it fell and I stepped on it, it shattered, but I have another saved to see if I reply hahahaha, greetings and one last question, to send you my progress (it is somewhat slow) of the FW 190 D9 Eduard, greetings and until the next video.
Thanks, Francisco! I'm sorry to hear about the shattered 109! If you want to send pictures of your progress, you can send them to my email: jonsmotorcycle@hotmail.com
Cheers!
Although I have seen similar use of pastels in modeling, this idea of using it as a substitute for scribing and riveting shows some promise. Enough , so that I will give this on a try soon.
I especially thought the 109 looked better after the pastels were toned down. I would also be interested in seeing how this appears after application of clear coats. My limited experience with pigments and clear coats has had mixed results. If applied lightly, they tend to disappear while if applied heavily, they are somewhat muted but still very much visible.
So perhaps this is a matter of practicing with different levels of reducing the muting before applying the clear coats.
You bring up good points, Carl. The effect of the pastels can change with subsequent clear coats. I do a final refinement of the effect after the final clear coat is on. As with any technique, practice and experimentation will pay off in the end. Cheers!
Nice primary paint color, looks like pastels could go a lot further than lots of paint and offers more variety. Let us know if the gloss and flat spray dissolve the pastel details Standing by , Bob
Just put the last decals on. Even if the flat coat tones it down too much, I can add more afterward. I usually do a bit more weathering as a final step until I'm happy with the results. I'll keep you posted.
@@jonsmodelkitreview4624 thanks, looks like I need to get a " paint mule" ready to :-)
looks good. preshading for most people is almost always covered up by top layers of paint and its time consuming. I don't bother with it
Sometimes I do, sometimes I don't. It definitely is a subtle effect if done correctly and not visible at all if the top color is too thick. Cheers!
When I've seal my pastels, most of the time, they fade away due to the sealing. What are you using to seal yours?
You can go darker than the base paint color with the pastels but not lighter if you want to seal them afterward. For example, on the lighter tan of this kit, I used a darker brown. For olive or dark green paint, I use black pastels. I seal mine with Future as a clear coat.
You forgot to mention how you seal it. Saying I'm going to give is a clear coat is not enough information. Pastels are notorious for becoming grainy, darkening and for making light colors disappear. You would have to be very specific on what type of clear coat, and if it is an alcohol based clear.
Great point, Wayne! There is more info to cover, so I'll post a follow-up video soon. I use Future to seal the pastels in preparation for decals. There are some other "rules" to keep in mind with the pastels as well. Cheers!