Great video! I just had to spend most of the weekend with mine, the bottom 3 bolts broke off due to being so rusted! I ended up having to drill and tap, which took forever laying under the truck!
Nice video friend. Thanks. Very helpful. I’m about to tackle the job on my 2017 and I wanted to be sure of my procedure before I crack that lid open! Cheers.
hmmmmmgreat video, well filmed ....but regarding cleaning the gasket surface. I would never use abrasives near a gearbox. Abrasives are for grinding, that's what they do. You don't want that stuff in your gearbox or in your bearings, circulating a million times. Just scraping with a razor is plenty good. All it has to do is seal, and that's real easy.
I agree with T. Take it from an old machinist. The last thing you want to do to a perfectly machined surface is use a power sander on it. Like T says, scrape with a razor and use some red scotch brite with some brake cleaner on it. Scotch brite will not change the flatness of a machined surface.
@@wmitch927 My concern is not the few tenths of tenths. The sealant will accommodate even a phillistine. Scouring pads have abrasives on them too, but perhaps finer particles than those loosed by that sanding disc. Since you can't put the diff it in a parts washer I'd keep ALL abrasives far away from this maintenance process. We're maintaining a component for longer service life, dumping out contaminated oil and its abrasives, replacing with with fresh clean oil. To introduce contamination to the NEW oil in this CLOSED lubrication environment, perhaps reducing the service life........ is a step in the wrong direction.
While I do not like using a sanding disc on the seal surface I will back off as you have some experience working these. A putty knife is usually enough.
I know this is two years later, but there is a reason why you need to remove the cover: there is a small sump or well in the differential (he shows this in the video) that you need to use your fingers to splash the fluid out and then use towels to finish cleaning the sump. If you had a drain plug on the cover you would never get the sump clean.
Thanks for the video. My 2015 F150 3.5L Ecoboost makes a slight vibration when im coasting. I do tow maybe a couple days each month. I have 215k miles. Noticed a leak in the rear differential today. Could that be the cause of the vibration? Changed trans and motor mounts already.
@@mando82jr Yes its known as the Super 8.8 when buying a new diff cover thats the size you need. 12 bolt Super 8.8 oh and they do not make gaskets for them you have to apply RTV silicone to seal. Hope it helps
Your diff sound like super 8.8 That’s what I have in mine. It has 12 bolts. Regular 8.8 has 10 bolts. Maghytec (spl) gasket is the one I use for my super 8.8 Worked great-no waiting for cure time. Hope that helped you
If friction modifier required or is it built into fluid you used. How does one know if already built into fluid? Think motorcraft fluids may not be built in? Thanks!
Search "F 12-8.8 Gasket" if you're trying to get a gasket instead of dealing with RTV every time you change out the fluid, what a jerk move of Ford to cheap out on.
Ford issued several TSBs regarding rear end noise on certain vehicles equiped with the 8.8 diff. The fix was to replace the fluid and change the fluid from 75w-85 to 75w-140. I believe the latest TSB was 04-24-20. There was a previous TSB 04-17-5. You wont have any issues running 75w-85. i just use 75-140 in all services i do per the tbs and to advoid any issues or complaints in the future.
Found this as the second video searching how to do this fluid change. Wish I found it first! Great job.
Great video! I just had to spend most of the weekend with mine, the bottom 3 bolts broke off due to being so rusted! I ended up having to drill and tap, which took forever laying under the truck!
Good photography skills and clear directions. Nicely done!
One of the best videos I've seen on this. Going to do this soon. Thanks for posting.
Good vid, to the point, no silly stuff, well done!
Nice video friend. Thanks. Very helpful. I’m about to tackle the job on my 2017 and I wanted to be sure of my procedure before I crack that lid open! Cheers.
Excellent information, presentation was awesome.Great video
Fantastic. Great video, Thanks
Thanks for the video. Helped boost my confidence. 👍
hmmmmmgreat video, well filmed ....but regarding cleaning the gasket surface. I would never use abrasives near a gearbox. Abrasives are for grinding, that's what they do. You don't want that stuff in your gearbox or in your bearings, circulating a million times. Just scraping with a razor is plenty good. All it has to do is seal, and that's real easy.
I agree with T. Take it from an old machinist. The last thing you want to do to a perfectly machined surface is use a power sander on it. Like T says, scrape with a razor and use some red scotch brite with some brake cleaner on it. Scotch brite will not change the flatness of a machined surface.
@@wmitch927 My concern is not the few tenths of tenths. The sealant will accommodate even a phillistine.
Scouring pads have abrasives on them too, but perhaps finer particles than those loosed by that sanding disc. Since you can't put the diff it in a parts washer I'd keep ALL abrasives far away from this maintenance process.
We're maintaining a component for longer service life, dumping out contaminated oil and its abrasives, replacing with with fresh clean oil. To introduce contamination to the NEW oil in this CLOSED lubrication environment, perhaps reducing the service life........ is a step in the wrong direction.
Well done..... THANKS!
Thank you!
Great job in explaining
great video man,thanks
Fantastic instructions. Thank you very much.
Great vid bud! 👍🏻
Wow this video helped a lot 👌🏼👌🏼
Great job thanks for the demonstration.
Very helpful. Thanks.
I would let it sit for a few minutes after filling then check if it might need a little more. Also that would let any extra drain out the fill hole.
You did a very good tutorial,
Just thinking do you think vacuum pump will work to suck all the oil out..
Skip opening it..
I would open it anyway just to atleast clean it and check for any metal shavings or damage
Just started the video and the music s right on the money........
what about a gear additive?
🤣🤣🤣 you lucky that rubber piece didn’t fall inside pumpkin
Good video 👍🏻👍🏻
Text BooK! Nicely Done
I dipped my rear end in flexseal. 300k miles and never had a leak. 😢😂
While I do not like using a sanding disc on the seal surface I will back off as you have some experience working these. A putty knife is usually enough.
Great video. Why ford doesn’t have a drain plug and a fill plug amazes me.
I know this is two years later, but there is a reason why you need to remove the cover: there is a small sump or well in the differential (he shows this in the video) that you need to use your fingers to splash the fluid out and then use towels to finish cleaning the sump. If you had a drain plug on the cover you would never get the sump clean.
@@Thomas63r2 have the drain plug in the bottom of the sump
I had my rear differential serviced in 2022. I recently noticed some oil stain on it. What could’ve caused it?
Thanks for the video. My 2015 F150 3.5L Ecoboost makes a slight vibration when im coasting. I do tow maybe a couple days each month. I have 215k miles. Noticed a leak in the rear differential today. Could that be the cause of the vibration? Changed trans and motor mounts already.
What would cause af150 to smoke out the rear end
does anyone know if these have 31, 34 or 35 splines?
Real gd video
The rear you have here, is it a 9.75? I have the same unit and can't figure what size itis.
I have the same one but its different than the 9.75. What is it???
@@A619D me too. did you ever figure out which one it is? is it the Super 8.8 ?
@@A619D I just got under my truck. there is a sticker on the passenger side of the axle. it says 8.8.
@@mando82jr Yes its known as the Super 8.8 when buying a new diff cover thats the size you need. 12 bolt Super 8.8 oh and they do not make gaskets for them you have to apply RTV silicone to seal. Hope it helps
@@mando82jr i just bought me a Shelby Baja Raptor. Now i have a 9.75 for sure 😂
is yours a 8.8? I have the same cover but 8.8 is supposed to have only 10 bolts not 12??
Your diff sound like super 8.8
That’s what I have in mine. It has 12 bolts.
Regular 8.8 has 10 bolts.
Maghytec (spl) gasket is the one I use for my super 8.8
Worked great-no waiting for cure time.
Hope that helped you
If friction modifier required or is it built into fluid you used. How does one know if already built into fluid?
Think motorcraft fluids may not be built in?
Thanks!
You only need that if you have a limited slip diff and no its not included in the fluid its a separate additive.
I thought they use 75/85 fluid?
Search "F 12-8.8 Gasket" if you're trying to get a gasket instead of dealing with RTV every time you change out the fluid, what a jerk move of Ford to cheap out on.
Had a hell of a time finding this, its the only one on the market
Makuloco video shows ‘15 and newer get 75w85
Also, all diffs torqued to 35 ft lb
My 2.7l F150 with a build date of 10/18 says to use 75w-85 in the rear axle.
Ford issued several TSBs regarding rear end noise on certain vehicles equiped with the 8.8 diff. The fix was to replace the fluid and change the fluid from 75w-85 to 75w-140. I believe the latest TSB was 04-24-20. There was a previous TSB 04-17-5. You wont have any issues running 75w-85. i just use 75-140 in all services i do per the tbs and to advoid any issues or complaints in the future.
@@AaronHinesAuto Thanks for the info. I'm enjoying your videos for future reference.
I added 2 bottles of friction modifier.
@@AaronHinesAutois the torque 25 or 35 foot pounds?
You forgot the friction modifier
Nice 11 mins when i take it to dealer a hour 150 $ labour