Hey man great video. I’m going to have to do this when the parts come in. Got some questions… those “gaskets” that you took from underneath the two aluminum blocks that sit on top of the valvetronic actuator, do they need to be replaced? Does the actuator come with that black gasket you pressed into the top of it?
@@DavidBarahonaBMW funny you said that just now as I was checked the orders tracking to see where it is. I took it all apart Monday (I had to check the teeth on the eccentric shaft before I ordered just incase but turns out it’s fine) I bought the all of the seals though.
So from 15:39 till 19:48 there is no sound? Seems to mee that thats the most important part to give tips or guidelines.. love the rest of the video great en good helpfull instructions
great video, one hint to make it simpler: you only need to remove the front bucket, the actuator comes out with the back bucket in place. Also you only need to remove the back injector to remove each bucket so in this case to do the whole job you only need to remove one injector (#2 cylinder injector) cheers!
@@BuildsBySahib one question for you: how complicated is it to install INSTA+ on a laptop ad is it easy to work with? from your vid it looks easy. I just put a new actuator in my N55 2014 X1 after driving for a year on the throttle body and now I need to teach or learn the valvetronic module. I'm up in Montreal BTW. Thanks
You left the shaft at the maximum position at 21:28 mins, I seen others bring it down to the stopper. Mine was at the same position as yours when I started but I'm not sure if it goes back that way or if it has to be down so that the shaft hits the stopper putting it in the reverse way as yours. Can you let me know please which way is correct.
Fantastic video. I don't have any of the scan tools, so I was planning to have my local shop do the reprogramming for the VANOS motor and the injectors (I had to replace mine). Does anyone know if the car will start and drive with new injectors or will I need to have it towed to the shop?
Hey awesome video, I'm still waiting on my replacement valvetronic piece but I have no idea what tools I'll be needing, any chance you have a list of some sort of eveyrthing I'll need when replacing the the valvetronic motor? Thanks in advance
I have the same model/year. I enjoyed watching this video - thanks man. Pretty involved, but nothing I can't do and I also have ista+. Hopefully i don't have to do this anytime soon though.
getting a 2dd6 prior to repair and post repair (took a few drive cycles to come on and now wont clear at all) part is aftermarket(didnt buy it) harness integrity looks all good checked everything. Did i get a doa part? any one else with this issue?
How many miles do you have on your 17 X5? Do you see any symptoms before you replace them? I am wondering if I should replace mine. Same 17 X5 with 52k miles now.
@builds by sahib Hey man great video. I’m going to have to do this when the parts come in. Got some questions… those “gaskets” that you took from underneath the two aluminum blocks that sit on top of the valvetronic actuator, do they need to be replaced? Does the actuator come with that black gasket you pressed into the top of it?
Thanks man and It’s better to replace them because you don’t want any oil leaks and they’re fairly cheap. And no you have to buy everything separately Here are the two part numbers: Actuator gasket: 11377502022 Block gasket: 11127589830
About to do this job, getting code 135704 on MHD reading Valvetronic system: warning threshold value, feedback control deviation exceeded. Rough idle on cold start and it’s been losing power on the way to work about 7 minutes into my drive. Will go back to normal once I pull over and restart the car. 2013 x3 Will be doing this replacement ASAP, thanks for the video!
Hi hale how are you I’ve had my car come up with a drivetrain malfunction and all power isn’t available, then I had the valvetronic motor changed by a mechanic but once I got home I had the same code come up again, I called him up and he didn’t cycle the new valvetronic motor so I done it at home, it passed all cycles. Then I drove the car right after that and the code comes up again. After that the code still comes up, does that mean the esscentric shaft needs changing?
I see you listed code 133E10 as part of your diagnoses. What symptoms did you get? Right now my car goes into drivetrain malfunction and the codes I have are related to the valvetronic as well. I'm getting the clicking / rattling noise when I open and close my door.
There appears to be no audio during what looks like the most important part of the job...... turning the camshaft, lol. Did we miss any verbal instructions during that process? What is the wrench for if you are turning it with the allen tool?
@@dnup9392hello. I have the same issue with my car, plus I need a valve cover. Did you fix your car? How much did you pay? Dealer or third party? Thanks very much in advance.
@@ISTVAN1127 Hey. No I still didnt fix mine. One guy said $650 but he doesnt have a shop, so I didnt get it done through him. Have you tried with any local shops? I need to take mine soon, car is sitting outside.
@@dnup9392 Hi. S the situation is the following: my mechanic would not touch it because this job needs special tools and some special info to set the engine right, etc. He told me to go to the BMW dealer. I have an appointment on August 28th. I expect a hefty bill. I would not mind, but I just purchased a 2015 750il with 37K and planned on selling the 535 xdrive. Reach out again and I will let you know how much they quoted. The dealership is in Farmington Hill, MI. Cheers.
I baught a 2011 bmw 116i with the N13 engine, the Valvetronick is on the side almost to the back of the engine When I got it the person told me it shuts down on them and when we scan it I got the Vavetronick code so I baught a new valvertronic moto and just take out the old one and put back the new one it was tight to get in but use an aulinkey at the back of it to spin it in and tighten the bolts every time in goes in a little. When we got it all the way in, we try to start it and it never starts just turn over so we put an autel scanner on it and whenever we try to relearn it, it come to a part that it says voltage low or not reach something like that but we get the car to start and it runs a little and start to vibrate and have a little sound like it wants to back fire if that make sense, then shut back down about 4 times so I am trying to find out if there is a relay or fuse or even ECU problem, Please let me know what you think? I check all fuse in the engen area I pull out the box under the glove compartment nex to the door and check it for burn or broken fuse also in the trunk nex to the battery and I pull out the side peace in the trunk and check those fuse as well but all looks good to me, the phues I check with a tester and I ask a electrician to test the black regulator that is in the engine bay nex to the inches on the car bonnet and he say it was working, also take out that little black box at the front of the engine that you have to cut open to check fuse and they all good as well
Great video, what were the fault codes that were showing up and did this actually fix the issue? I am having the same issue with my car having changed the valvetronic unit however the car is still causing issues when hot
Hi, thanks for the video. I've been trying to do the relearn procedure on my E91 with the N55 engine and, before the procedure starts, I am getting the error "Fault: Voltage supply". Any idea why? Or what voltage supply is it referring to? The car was on a wall jumper and had a constant 13.9 volts as shown by the DME. Thanks! P.S. For extra context, I am trying to fix an "2DCF Valvetronic system: No movement detected" error. Car runs fine, pulls fine, gets good gas millage and just has this error there that is always current and can not be deleted. Actuator was changed, wiring was checked, eccentric shaft looked good, no visual damage and moved freely.
Great vid. I’m debating if i should do this repair or not. Currently I get this code 133E10. It looks fairly simple but other than the injector tools the only other problem is that I do not have ISTA
Hey man I need your input I have a 2011 bmw 335 and I installed the new valvetronic position sensor like in your vid and I’m using ista+ and I’m using the DCAN cable to usb well K+D and it’s not working I set it to usb/serial interface but nothing do you know what I need to do or if I need the Ethernet to obd or something thanks
hello, I did exactly as you did with my car on the other hand I just put a second-hand servomotor buy on a site I replaced the servomotor but when I put everything back together when I try to adapt with my suitcase it blocks it tells me that the motor is not at 0 or the servomotor has gone into degraded mode
Great video!! Very helpful! Didn't you have to use an o-ring compressor tool to get the fuel injectors back in? Also is the valve cover bolt loosening pattern the same as the re-install to pattern?
Thanks. And you have to use the o ring compressor for new seals (it’s recommended to change the seals once you pull the injectors out). I just didn’t lol. And the tightening sequence is exactly the same.
Hello. When your Val Tronic was going out, did you have a small knocking from the engine when sitting in the driver seat? How exactly is the Val Tronic causing this issue?
What would happen if you don’t put the Eccentric shaft back to the open position before you complete the job? I recently had this job done and I’m experiencing issues. Any help would be appreciated.
@@BuildsBySahib the issue is the rpm on start doesn’t seem like it’s normal. The rpm seems sluggish but before This repair the rpm was normal. It’s almost like the start has no bounce in the rpm it slowly rises, no one can figure out this issue.
Hello, this is a amazing job! congratulations! My BMW 135 E82 (N55 Engine) have this error code. 002DD8 Valvetronic-Actuator, Position Sensor: Signal Implausible. For solver this, is necesary valvetronic's replacement? Thanks for you help
Hello Sahib, Thank you for video. Really love it. I have bad motor on VALVETRONIC MOTOR on my customer car, what if I disable (if I can) VALVETRONIC MOTOR , would there be any issue? will I get engine light on? Thank you very much!!!
Man. Im just seeing this video and i installed my valvetronic servomotor on my n55 like 1 month ago but forgot to do the last part on the cumputer the car has been running normal what should i do can i still do it or what?
Fantastic video, everything understandable, giving torque specs, telling hidden things to be careful about. And all the tips. Instant sub and follow my G.
What a class video bro. Very in depth and informative. I have one question! (Which I think was the only thing not covered!!) When youre re-installing the injectors, it looked like you just dropped them back in position and used the bracket to push them down in to seat when you tightened the bracket up.. is that correct?
Thank you 🙏🏼 and Yeah that’s what I did. I’ve done that multiple times and haven’t had any issues with it. But tbh there’s probably a better way to do it lol
@@BuildsBySahib thanks for the reply bro.. it'll be my turn to do it for my first time in a few days.. I have everything but the outer servo gasket that sits on top of the rocker cover.. Wish me luck :D
Dumb question for ya.. I’ve only ever removed these valvetronic motors and put the old ones back in for service. Did this job, replaced the motor, and by mistake did the valvetronic limit relearn instead of valvetronic start up. How bad of a mistake was that? Keep getting codes immediately now and the motor sounds horrible when it’s adjusting
Thank you for this video! I am going to replace mine in a few days. Can you guide me where to get a working copy of ISTA+? The ones that I found fail to install :(
I have a F10 N55, when I unlock the car, I hear a rattle/ ratchet sound coming from the engine. No error codes/ check engine light. Battery was low, in winter, but now , I dont see the battery low warning anymore. Car starts right up. Any ideas what the issue could be?
I had a similar issue. I had the same rattle and it went away once I got a new battery. Apparently it’s one of the main relays that’s making that sound.
@@BuildsBySahib Thanks for the reply. On forum, people are saying its the valvetroninc motor. Yours was also the motor? And it fixed it self after replacing the battery?
It could be that, tbh I changed both at the same time so I’m not exactly sure but i was told by a professional bmw mechanic that I needed to change the battery when he diagnosed my car and that rattling sound.
Would this give an accelerator pedal signal intensity error if servomotor was defective? As well as valvetronic servo motor error and absolute pressure sensor? Thanks
@@mazi_talk22 yeh it was the servomotor that had broken. Mine was internally shorted my garage said. Do you have clicking sort of sounds when you close the doors? Noise is from engine bay
so i, uh, dropped the bottom bolt to the servomotor and heard it drop down somewhere on top of the cylinder head. i didnt see it when it happened. ive been fishing with a mganet and a boroscope for two days now and cant find it. ny idea where it could have gone? i wish i could pull that cam ledge off without having to lock in the cams or needing a timing kit
and theres no port big enough for it to actually have dropped off in the motor is there? i know it fell back towards the cam and not like through the injector port or anything
That’s crazy man, sorry to hear that. And I don’t think it went on the cylinder head unless it went through the spark plug hole or injector hole. It’s somewhere in the head area (probably under the camshaft or valves). Worst case scenario, it’s could’ve gone through the oil feed areas and down the block to the oil pan. check images of n55 cylinder head and try brainstorming what could’ve happened. Hope you find it man
I wouldn’t leave it there man. I would try getting it out and do my best to locate it. I’ve done something similar once to a different engine and it took me over 2 days. But it was a different scenario. Try everything. Check out head images of top and bottom and figure something out
Let’s say it’s still near the valves, and if you start the engine, it could go either to the turbo or the cylinder head. It could mess up your whole engine
I replaced the shaft with the valvetronic motor. I preformed the learn/run in procedure. I now have miss fire fault with air mass. Seems as if the end stops didn't get learned. Also the miss fire changes cylinders. Swapped injectors and programmed which cylinder. New spark plugs and relocated coils. Promedantly cylinder 6 is first on the miss fire list.
Thanks for the great video! Can you please guide me where to get ista from and how to install it? I have been looking online for ages and not much useful info
I am getting P1017 and P10E2 on my 2016 n55 w 39k miles. Which code did you get to make you determine it was the eccentric actuator motor? How about the eccentric sensor? Thanks for filming this clearly. Much better than the few i saw prior. Mine has zero clicking noise when unlock car. Also, did you tried to use ista+ to relearn it before you replaced the actuator motor? Thanks for your help
Also, did you replaced injector seals? How about the gasket under the basket? Or the Decoupling Element - Genuine BMW 13537577649 (thats for injectors to sit on the head)?
Both of the codes are related to your servomotor position sensor. (Signal: not plausible and electrical: malfunction). I would clean up the electrical connections, clear the fault codes and check again. Might have to replace the sensor if that’s faulty. The code I got was 133E10 : (Valvetronic system: Disabled to frequent versetellfault). I got my car professional diagnosed by bmw and they told me to change the actuator. I didnt reset adaptations on my older actuator and just replaced it instead. I changed the aluminum gasket under the aluminum buckets, but not the fuel injector seals and uncoupling elements since I wanna change my injectors. I haven’t had any issues with not changing the seals so far
@@BuildsBySahib ok thank you. I am having a bmw tech check it tmr. Also, i did hear the clicking sound when i unlock the car. Hopefully it’s just the actuator motor. Seems easy to do. Again thx for putting this video up. Super helpful
I had a clicking (kind of like rattling) sound when I unlocked my car as well and apparently it was a relay (not sure which one). I changed my car battery and the problem went away. The reason was that my car battery wasn’t supplying adequate voltage to certain modules and relays
@@ernie334 I am having the same P10e2 on my 2015 N20. After what Svhib mentioned above regarding the sensor and not the actuator itself, I'm going to try cleaning up the electrical connections. If that doesn't work I am planning on changing the actuator myself. Can you let me know what your bmw tech guy says if it's only the servomotor position sensor, or it could be the actuator and eccentric shaft as well. Thank you.
my servomotor made a clattering sound when unlock the doors. I replaced it and did not do the learn. Bunch of lights turned on, but they disappeared after few drive cycles. I guess, it learned by itself.
Hey I have replaced my engine in the 2011 bmw 335i xdrive but now am getting a code for the valve tronic motor saying it's deactivated can you tell me what can I do. To activate it back.
Hey man, I just did this and seemed smooth until I got to the start up procedure and right when the cycle should be counted ista+ says my engine is not running, but it clearly was... The only other fault was a steering angle sensor, do you by any chance know how to fix this?
Thanks. And all 3 things I’ve used to pull the injectors are in this kit. You can use this to compare www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-compressor-starter-kit-with-hose-20-pc-0587797p.0587797.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIt-K04q7T7wIVlCCtBh3Gvw_5EAQYAiABEgKyF_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#store=675
Nice job on the video, but there appears to be a ton of buildup on the springs from what appears to be overextended oil drain intervals, or it is just the camera angles?
My shop I took my to is trying to tell me they also have to replace the Valve Cover, Eccentric Shaft,Shaft Bearings, Breather Tube and Spark Plug Seals. They did not tear vehicle apart. They say they always replaces these parts. Is this legit or a money grab?
Love this video man. Very very helpful! I just replaced mine on my ‘13 X3 335ix. However, once I went to startup valvetronic procedure. It faulted out within first 4 mins. of running the procedure. Engine sounds great when we started it up when asked by computer. We’re using a snap on solus legend. Curious your thoughts why it faults out on doing the test. Thanks man.
@@singhsarabjit I did. I was curious if I had done something incorrectly but it was inevitable. Did a flawless install. So I took it to bmw to have reprogrammed and it went perfect. Computer just wasn’t capable of running the program.
BMW tried telling me I was going to need the shaft too but that was just them trying to up sell me. Vehicle has been running great since install of just the servo motor.
@@hazlofilms6079 mine got stuck too and i tried like 10 times but mine just faults at “learning limits” and i get 134f01 fault code and doesnt let me go further. What error did you got?
Btw I don't know why i kept saying "screws" when all I'm dealing with is bolts 🥴😂
Hey man great video. I’m going to have to do this when the parts come in. Got some questions… those “gaskets” that you took from underneath the two aluminum blocks that sit on top of the valvetronic actuator, do they need to be replaced? Does the actuator come with that black gasket you pressed into the top of it?
@@boostlee876 once ur down there ur might as well replace them for peace of mind.
@@DavidBarahonaBMW funny you said that just now as I was checked the orders tracking to see where it is. I took it all apart Monday (I had to check the teeth on the eccentric shaft before I ordered just incase but turns out it’s fine) I bought the all of the seals though.
It is no throttle body ?
It’s 04/27/2024 and I can’t tell you how much I appreciate this video. Thank you, you saved me money and kept me sane through out the process
So from 15:39 till 19:48 there is no sound? Seems to mee that thats the most important part to give tips or guidelines.. love the rest of the video great en good helpfull instructions
I like the way you do the job step by step and the way you explained, continue to do that please.
Got through this job because of you about 3 years ago and i just rewatched it. Saved me money and boosted my ego 😂Thank you!
Great video! Goes in depth and actually gives torque specs too.
Thank you🙏🏼
What if the shaft stop at the lower point mine stop at the lowest and I don’t know what to do
I'm glad to hear someone actually gives a disclaimer about the risks of DIY!
Nicely done, buddy very calmly narrated good step-by-step instructions
great video, one hint to make it simpler: you only need to remove the front bucket, the actuator comes out with the back bucket in place. Also you only need to remove the back injector to remove each bucket so in this case to do the whole job you only need to remove one injector (#2 cylinder injector) cheers!
I Appreciate the info🙏🏼
@@BuildsBySahib one question for you: how complicated is it to install INSTA+ on a laptop ad is it easy to work with? from your vid it looks easy. I just put a new actuator in my N55 2014 X1 after driving for a year on the throttle body and now I need to teach or learn the valvetronic module. I'm up in Montreal BTW. Thanks
It’s easy to install since it comes with a manual. And it’s pretty straightforward to use. It was my first time using it and I had no problems
Dont you need to remove the middle buckey to remove the minimum stopper?
@@ernie334 no it's accessible between the second and third bucket
You left the shaft at the maximum position at 21:28 mins, I seen others bring it down to the stopper. Mine was at the same position as yours when I started but I'm not sure if it goes back that way or if it has to be down so that the shaft hits the stopper putting it in the reverse way as yours. Can you let me know please which way is correct.
Really need the tourqe spec on the actuator seal. Feels like it striped out at 7nm and i dont want to keep going unless i know the spec
23:14 Did you forget to install the fuel injectors in their original spots?
Fantastic video. I don't have any of the scan tools, so I was planning to have my local shop do the reprogramming for the VANOS motor and the injectors (I had to replace mine). Does anyone know if the car will start and drive with new injectors or will I need to have it towed to the shop?
With injectors no you don’t need to do a relearn. It is an output
Merci bien pour ta belle vidéo elle m'a rendu très service et m'a permis de faire l'ouvrage sans problème
Hey awesome video, I'm still waiting on my replacement valvetronic piece but I have no idea what tools I'll be needing, any chance you have a list of some sort of eveyrthing I'll need when replacing the the valvetronic motor?
Thanks in advance
Great video, you have parts numbers off everything you replaced also gaskets
I have the same model/year. I enjoyed watching this video - thanks man. Pretty involved, but nothing I can't do and I also have ista+. Hopefully i don't have to do this anytime soon though.
getting a 2dd6 prior to repair and post repair (took a few drive cycles to come on and now wont clear at all) part is aftermarket(didnt buy it) harness integrity looks all good checked everything. Did i get a doa part? any one else with this issue?
Thank you for the guide I just did mines on my x5 2017 I’m doing the cycles right now with my xtool scanner thank you
How many miles do you have on your 17 X5? Do you see any symptoms before you replace them? I am wondering if I should replace mine. Same 17 X5 with 52k miles now.
This video is a big help for me. Thanks for doing this man! Btw, where did you get ISTA software?
@builds by sahib Hey man great video. I’m going to have to do this when the parts come in. Got some questions… those “gaskets” that you took from underneath the two aluminum blocks that sit on top of the valvetronic actuator, do they need to be replaced? Does the actuator come with that black gasket you pressed into the top of it?
Thanks man and It’s better to replace them because you don’t want any oil leaks and they’re fairly cheap. And no you have to buy everything separately
Here are the two part numbers:
Actuator gasket: 11377502022
Block gasket: 11127589830
@@BuildsBySahib thank you. I appreciate it.
Thanks for this. My 2015 X5 has code 135608 valvetronic system no movement detected - could this be the cause of it cranks but no start?
About to do this job, getting code 135704 on MHD reading Valvetronic system: warning threshold value, feedback control deviation exceeded.
Rough idle on cold start and it’s been losing power on the way to work about 7 minutes into my drive. Will go back to normal once I pull over and restart the car. 2013 x3
Will be doing this replacement ASAP, thanks for the video!
Did you end up replacing the motor?
your sound disappears at about 15:40
Hi hale how are you I’ve had my car come up with a drivetrain malfunction and all power isn’t available, then I had the valvetronic motor changed by a mechanic but once I got home I had the same code come up again, I called him up and he didn’t cycle the new valvetronic motor so I done it at home, it passed all cycles. Then I drove the car right after that and the code comes up again. After that the code still comes up, does that mean the esscentric shaft needs changing?
I’m worried now 😂
I see you listed code 133E10 as part of your diagnoses. What symptoms did you get? Right now my car goes into drivetrain malfunction and the codes I have are related to the valvetronic as well. I'm getting the clicking / rattling noise when I open and close my door.
Did you find out what is was? I'm having the same problems
@@sahndoubobinshkiiv593 Yes, replacing the Valvetronic motor fixed it.
There appears to be no audio during what looks like the most important part of the job...... turning the camshaft, lol. Did we miss any verbal instructions during that process? What is the wrench for if you are turning it with the allen tool?
I’m here because i have to do this job on my 535i f10 ,definitely not doing this job I’ll go too my mechanic but i like videos like this
How much the mechanic charged you? When I unlock my car, I hear a rattle like sound coming from the engine.
@@dnup9392hello. I have the same issue with my car, plus I need a valve cover. Did you fix your car? How much did you pay? Dealer or third party? Thanks very much in advance.
@@ISTVAN1127 Hey. No I still didnt fix mine. One guy said $650 but he doesnt have a shop, so I didnt get it done through him. Have you tried with any local shops? I need to take mine soon, car is sitting outside.
@@dnup9392 Hi. S
the situation is the following: my mechanic would not touch it because this job needs special tools and some special info to set the engine right, etc. He told me to go to the BMW dealer. I have an appointment on August 28th. I expect a hefty bill. I would not mind, but I just purchased a 2015 750il with 37K and planned on selling the 535 xdrive. Reach out again and I will let you know how much they quoted. The dealership is in Farmington Hill, MI. Cheers.
I baught a 2011 bmw 116i with the N13 engine, the Valvetronick is on the side almost to the back of the engine When I got it the person told me it shuts down on them and when we scan it I got the Vavetronick code so I baught a new valvertronic moto and just take out the old one and put back the new one it was tight to get in but use an aulinkey at the back of it to spin it in and tighten the bolts every time in goes in a little. When we got it all the way in, we try to start it and it never starts just turn over so we put an autel scanner on it and whenever we try to relearn it, it come to a part that it says voltage low or not reach something like that but we get the car to start and it runs a little and start to vibrate and have a little sound like it wants to back fire if that make sense, then shut back down about 4 times so I am trying to find out if there is a relay or fuse or even ECU problem, Please let me know what you think? I check all fuse in the engen area I pull out the box under the glove compartment nex to the door and check it for burn or broken fuse also in the trunk nex to the battery and I pull out the side peace in the trunk and check those fuse as well but all looks good to me, the phues I check with a tester and I ask a electrician to test the black regulator that is in the engine bay nex to the inches on the car bonnet and he say it was working, also take out that little black box at the front of the engine that you have to cut open to check fuse and they all good as well
Great video, what were the fault codes that were showing up and did this actually fix the issue?
I am having the same issue with my car having changed the valvetronic unit however the car is still causing issues when hot
Hi, thanks for the video. I've been trying to do the relearn procedure on my E91 with the N55 engine and, before the procedure starts, I am getting the error "Fault: Voltage supply". Any idea why? Or what voltage supply is it referring to? The car was on a wall jumper and had a constant 13.9 volts as shown by the DME. Thanks!
P.S. For extra context, I am trying to fix an "2DCF Valvetronic system: No movement detected" error. Car runs fine, pulls fine, gets good gas millage and just has this error there that is always current and can not be deleted. Actuator was changed, wiring was checked, eccentric shaft looked good, no visual damage and moved freely.
Hello Lucian, did you figure it out? Thank you!!!
Hey Mate, did you find the solution and would share it with me =( I get headache from this problem ..Best regards
Great vid. I’m debating if i should do this repair or not. Currently I get this code 133E10. It looks fairly simple but other than the injector tools the only other problem is that I do not have ISTA
Hey man I need your input I have a 2011 bmw 335 and I installed the new valvetronic position sensor like in your vid and I’m using ista+ and I’m using the DCAN cable to usb well K+D and it’s not working I set it to usb/serial interface but nothing do you know what I need to do or if I need the Ethernet to obd or something thanks
hello, I did exactly as you did with my car on the other hand I just put a second-hand servomotor buy on a site I replaced the servomotor but when I put everything back together when I try to adapt with my suitcase it blocks it tells me that the motor is not at 0 or the servomotor has gone into degraded mode
Great video!! Very helpful! Didn't you have to use an o-ring compressor tool to get the fuel injectors back in? Also is the valve cover bolt loosening pattern the same as the re-install to pattern?
Thanks. And you have to use the o ring compressor for new seals (it’s recommended to change the seals once you pull the injectors out). I just didn’t lol. And the tightening sequence is exactly the same.
Hello. When your Val Tronic was going out, did you have a small knocking from the engine when sitting in the driver seat? How exactly is the Val Tronic causing this issue?
What would happen if you don’t put the Eccentric shaft back to the open position before you complete the job? I recently had this job done and I’m experiencing issues. Any help would be appreciated.
Can you explain the issue? I think your car would have jerky/rough startups. If that’s the issue, there’s a way to adjust it using ISTA+
@@BuildsBySahib the issue is the rpm on start doesn’t seem like it’s normal. The rpm seems sluggish but before This repair the rpm was normal. It’s almost like the start has no bounce in the rpm it slowly rises, no one can figure out this issue.
Hello Allen, did you figure it out? Thank you!!!
Hello, this is a amazing job! congratulations! My BMW 135 E82 (N55 Engine) have this error code. 002DD8 Valvetronic-Actuator, Position Sensor: Signal Implausible. For solver this, is necesary valvetronic's replacement?
Thanks for you help
Hello Sahib, Thank you for video. Really love it. I have bad motor on VALVETRONIC MOTOR on my customer car, what if I disable (if I can) VALVETRONIC MOTOR , would there be any issue? will I get engine light on? Thank you very much!!!
Hey just finished the install flawless. Which version of ista+ are you running? Think i have old v3.53 and does not have “start up valvetronic”.
Man. Im just seeing this video and i installed my valvetronic servomotor on my n55 like 1 month ago but forgot to do the last part on the cumputer the car has been running normal what should i do can i still do it or what?
Fantastic video, everything understandable, giving torque specs, telling hidden things to be careful about. And all the tips. Instant sub and follow my G.
🙏🏼🙏🏼
How do you know when to replace the valvetronic motor ? Drivetrain malfunction?
What a class video bro. Very in depth and informative.
I have one question! (Which I think was the only thing not covered!!) When youre re-installing the injectors, it looked like you just dropped them back in position and used the bracket to push them down in to seat when you tightened the bracket up.. is that correct?
Thank you 🙏🏼 and Yeah that’s what I did. I’ve done that multiple times and haven’t had any issues with it. But tbh there’s probably a better way to do it lol
@@BuildsBySahib thanks for the reply bro.. it'll be my turn to do it for my first time in a few days.. I have everything but the outer servo gasket that sits on top of the rocker cover.. Wish me luck :D
Good luck homie, lmk how it turned out🙏🏼
Great video. Where did you get the actuator from ?
Bought it direct from the dealership
Can I use the mhd wireless adapter to Bluetooth to the computer or it has to be a enet cable?
Thanks, thoughtful video. Did you change out the rubber seals on the injector when you got them out?
I actually didn’t because I want to change my injectors but you’re supposed to do it once you take them out. I haven’t had any problems so far.
@@BuildsBySahib I see, makes sense, thx
🤔🤔 did you replace any of the fuel injector gaskets??
Huge help, thanks for the video!
merci beaucoup pour cette video très bien faite, je voulais savoir quels était les symptômes? Merci d'avance.
Dumb question for ya.. I’ve only ever removed these valvetronic motors and put the old ones back in for service. Did this job, replaced the motor, and by mistake did the valvetronic limit relearn instead of valvetronic start up. How bad of a mistake was that? Keep getting codes immediately now and the motor sounds horrible when it’s adjusting
Did you ever get an answer for this currently experiencing the same issue😅
I did the same thing, how’d you fix it?
Hey did you ever find a cause
Just a heads up the VDO part u passed up on for this is the oe manufacturer of this part, you just paid more for the bmw stamp
Lol yeah I figured it out a while back
I am about to do an N47 timing chain and om642 beariings
hi mate ... i have a f20 M135i with the same engine .... what is the brand of the Valetronic
I got the OEM part from the dealership
Thank you for this video! I am going to replace mine in a few days. Can you guide me where to get a working copy of ISTA+? The ones that I found fail to install :(
I have a F10 N55, when I unlock the car, I hear a rattle/ ratchet sound coming from the engine. No error codes/ check engine light. Battery was low, in winter, but now , I dont see the battery low warning anymore. Car starts right up. Any ideas what the issue could be?
I had a similar issue. I had the same rattle and it went away once I got a new battery. Apparently it’s one of the main relays that’s making that sound.
@@BuildsBySahib Thanks for the reply. On forum, people are saying its the valvetroninc motor. Yours was also the motor? And it fixed it self after replacing the battery?
It could be that, tbh I changed both at the same time so I’m not exactly sure but i was told by a professional bmw mechanic that I needed to change the battery when he diagnosed my car and that rattling sound.
@@BuildsBySahib Sahib, how many hours did you take to do this job?
Would this give an accelerator pedal signal intensity error if servomotor was defective? As well as valvetronic servo motor error and absolute pressure sensor? Thanks
I have the same problem. Did you fix it? If so how
@@mazi_talk22 yeh it was the servomotor that had broken. Mine was internally shorted my garage said. Do you have clicking sort of sounds when you close the doors? Noise is from engine bay
@@peterwood2633 yes I also have engine malfunction with cel
@@mazi_talk22 and you've read the codes via obd too? I take it your car is at a good BMW garage now?
@@peterwood2633 yes I found a great mobile mechanic and shaft looks good just the actuator went bad. Currently getting fixed with new actuator.
so i, uh, dropped the bottom bolt to the servomotor and heard it drop down somewhere on top of the cylinder head. i didnt see it when it happened. ive been fishing with a mganet and a boroscope for two days now and cant find it. ny idea where it could have gone? i wish i could pull that cam ledge off without having to lock in the cams or needing a timing kit
and theres no port big enough for it to actually have dropped off in the motor is there? i know it fell back towards the cam and not like through the injector port or anything
That’s crazy man, sorry to hear that. And I don’t think it went on the cylinder head unless it went through the spark plug hole or injector hole. It’s somewhere in the head area (probably under the camshaft or valves). Worst case scenario, it’s could’ve gone through the oil feed areas and down the block to the oil pan. check images of n55 cylinder head and try brainstorming what could’ve happened. Hope you find it man
@@BuildsBySahib let's say it's under the cam in the head area, could it be in a spot where it would stay at rest and not do any damage?
I wouldn’t leave it there man. I would try getting it out and do my best to locate it. I’ve done something similar once to a different engine and it took me over 2 days. But it was a different scenario. Try everything. Check out head images of top and bottom and figure something out
Let’s say it’s still near the valves, and if you start the engine, it could go either to the turbo or the cylinder head. It could mess up your whole engine
How common is the valve tronic shaft known to fail
I replaced the shaft with the valvetronic motor. I preformed the learn/run in procedure. I now have miss fire fault with air mass. Seems as if the end stops didn't get learned. Also the miss fire changes cylinders. Swapped injectors and programmed which cylinder. New spark plugs and relocated coils. Promedantly cylinder 6 is first on the miss fire list.
Thanks for the great video! Can you please guide me where to get ista from and how to install it? I have been looking online for ages and not much useful info
Nice video brother... where did you get your ista? I see a lot of people having troble getting a proper copy. Would you happen to have a link? Thanks!
Hey man, did you had any codes? Any symptoms?
where do you get the ISTA program on the laptop
I am getting P1017 and P10E2 on my 2016 n55 w 39k miles. Which code did you get to make you determine it was the eccentric actuator motor? How about the eccentric sensor? Thanks for filming this clearly. Much better than the few i saw prior. Mine has zero clicking noise when unlock car.
Also, did you tried to use ista+ to relearn it before you replaced the actuator motor?
Thanks for your help
Also, did you replaced injector seals? How about the gasket under the basket? Or the Decoupling Element - Genuine BMW 13537577649 (thats for injectors to sit on the head)?
Both of the codes are related to your servomotor position sensor. (Signal: not plausible and electrical: malfunction). I would clean up the electrical connections, clear the fault codes and check again. Might have to replace the sensor if that’s faulty. The code I got was 133E10 : (Valvetronic system: Disabled to frequent versetellfault). I got my car professional diagnosed by bmw and they told me to change the actuator. I didnt reset adaptations on my older actuator and just replaced it instead. I changed the aluminum gasket under the aluminum buckets, but not the fuel injector seals and uncoupling elements since I wanna change my injectors. I haven’t had any issues with not changing the seals so far
@@BuildsBySahib ok thank you. I am having a bmw tech check it tmr. Also, i did hear the clicking sound when i unlock the car. Hopefully it’s just the actuator motor. Seems easy to do. Again thx for putting this video up. Super helpful
I had a clicking (kind of like rattling) sound when I unlocked my car as well and apparently it was a relay (not sure which one). I changed my car battery and the problem went away. The reason was that my car battery wasn’t supplying adequate voltage to certain modules and relays
@@ernie334 I am having the same P10e2 on my 2015 N20. After what Svhib mentioned above regarding the sensor and not the actuator itself, I'm going to try cleaning up the electrical connections. If that doesn't work I am planning on changing the actuator myself. Can you let me know what your bmw tech guy says if it's only the servomotor position sensor, or it could be the actuator and eccentric shaft as well. Thank you.
How long did this take you to do from start to finish ? 2 hours would you say ?
Longer since I was recording the process. It should take around 2-3 hours
my servomotor made a clattering sound when unlock the doors. I replaced it and did not do the learn. Bunch of lights turned on, but they disappeared after few drive cycles. I guess, it learned by itself.
Hey I have replaced my engine in the 2011 bmw 335i xdrive but now am getting a code for the valve tronic motor saying it's deactivated can you tell me what can I do. To activate it back.
Hey I have a question where do you buy the ista + ?
did you have to drain the oil before doin this?
Hey. maybe a weird question, but where can I get insa+ software?
What happened to the sound at 16min mark 😢
Did your car prevent it from starting like a crank no start?
could this issue cause a crank but no start ?
Very helpful video thanks brother you make for us video
🙏🏼
Hey where did you do to Change this
Excellent video. Thank you very much!
Awesome video, right to the point, THANKS!!!
Okay how much is Insta+ and the cable?
🤷♂️
Hey man, I just did this and seemed smooth until I got to the start up procedure and right when the cycle should be counted ista+ says my engine is not running, but it clearly was... The only other fault was a steering angle sensor, do you by any chance know how to fix this?
Did you ever figure out the issue? I have the same issue. Engine is running but program says it’s not.
What was the cause to changing it out??
hello very good video could you detail your tools to remove the injectors I find it very useful
Thanks. And all 3 things I’ve used to pull the injectors are in this kit. You can use this to compare
www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-compressor-starter-kit-with-hose-20-pc-0587797p.0587797.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIt-K04q7T7wIVlCCtBh3Gvw_5EAQYAiABEgKyF_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#store=675
Can any scanner reprogram it?
Nice job on the video, but there appears to be a ton of buildup on the springs from what appears to be overextended oil drain intervals, or it is just the camera angles?
Just a tip put a papertowl in the hole so the bolt wont go down the injector hole for peace of mind.
Es posible que por eso no prenda el bmw?
Great video thanks
Best video 👍🏽
What was your symptoms?
thank you man! this was very helpfull!
Does it only reset with ISTA+? Or can I reset with using Protool app from the phone?
That’s what I’m wondering or do you even have to relearn it
My shop I took my to is trying to tell me they also have to replace the Valve Cover, Eccentric Shaft,Shaft Bearings, Breather Tube and Spark Plug Seals. They did not tear vehicle apart. They say they always replaces these parts. Is this legit or a money grab?
Huge money grab 😂
Good job, next stop change the pulley ;) this is probably due on mine, as well
Thanks, and I’ll look into it for sure
12:45 Good tip!
Amazing video🔥
Address please I need some work to do my car
Love this video man. Very very helpful! I just replaced mine on my ‘13 X3 335ix. However, once I went to startup valvetronic procedure. It faulted out within first 4 mins. of running the procedure. Engine sounds great when we started it up when asked by computer. We’re using a snap on solus legend. Curious your thoughts why it faults out on doing the test. Thanks man.
Hello Hazlo, did you figure it out? Thank you!!!
@@singhsarabjit I did. I was curious if I had done something incorrectly but it was inevitable. Did a flawless install. So I took it to bmw to have reprogrammed and it went perfect. Computer just wasn’t capable of running the program.
BMW tried telling me I was going to need the shaft too but that was just them trying to up sell me. Vehicle has been running great since install of just the servo motor.
@@hazlofilms6079 thank you very much
@@hazlofilms6079 mine got stuck too and i tried like 10 times but mine just faults at “learning limits” and i get 134f01 fault code and doesnt let me go further. What error did you got?
Where did you get the software? I need it please!
The link is not available anymore. You can try search ISTA+ and you might able to find it online.
mega.nz/#F!dAxihCja!0JoWxVXavz6Exwgvp6fyLA
You can try this link and see if it works
Hi my name is Jack I have 2011 BMW 335 and 55 engine I change Volvo tronic motor I need a program can you do it for me please I pay you thank you
Is ista+ free