How to Replace All Engine Vacuum Lines | 95 Ford F150
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video, I show you how to replace the vacuum lines, the vacuum canister, and an AC check valve.
#obsford #engine #vacuumlines
I bought
1 foot of 10 mm
1 foot of 8 mm
5 feet of 6 mm
15 feet of 4mm (I ordered 5 more feet later)
🚧 The links for the vacuum lines and other parts are below👇
www.siliconeint...
Vacuum T fitting - amzn.to/2Wynq6M
🚨COFFEE CAN DISCONTINUED🚨
🚧Below is a link for an alternate Ford vacuum reservoir that works👇
amzn.to/3lh0SzP
⏰ Time Stamps:
0:00 Intro
Welcome to The Minute Masters TH-cam Channel where I (Stevie) show you how to repair and upgrade all Ford F series trucks and Broncos from 1980-1997. So hit that subscribe button and be ready to resurrect your baby!🤙
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The project is my 1995 Ford F150 XL 2wd 8 foot bed.
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Jesse, as someone who spent years doing frame off restoration on an Obs , I fully appreciate all u have done for obs community. I know there is so much info that has to be researched and pieced together to have the info you share. Because of the videos you make, you fast track so much for so many. Awesome job.. Thanks for all you have done and do!
Thanks man!🤙 I really appreciate it! I remember having to hunt around for information for another car I owned. It’s definitely nice having it all in one location. Forums are great too but you can spend hours sorting through different threads.
🙏 amen man, you're absolutely right. This guy steve? Other Steve's pale in comparison. My ford is an even minter pile of garbage thanks to the almighty steve
hi minute & newday, hey i'm horrible at posting on YT so i hope i did it in the right spot. i LOVE this video. i have a 1990 ford e350 van, i'm replacing the TPS & pulled the throttle body. the throttle body hast 2 vacuum nipples on right side (on the valve side) the lower connected into a tee to a little valve thingy but the top vacuum nipple had nothing connected, and looks clean like nothing was. this can't be right can it? i've been trying to search diagrams but i'm on my phone only right now and struggling. any help from you & the gurus to help a gal out would be appreciated. i just can't figure out what if any line is supposed to hook up there. when i say top right, i mean that if you're standing in front of van looking back at engine, the egr will be to the left of throttle body, the right side of throttle body has 2 nipples:))) one upper, one lower with that valve sensor thingy in middle, i know where lower hooks up but have no clue where upper does. sorry for the novel. -barbie
@@8barbies779 Hi Barbie, thanks!🤙 I appreciate it.
Did my video not show a vacuum line on the top right side?
@@TheMinuteMasters you know minute, i'll have to rewatch, if my memory serves the camera may not have picked it up but i could be confusing it with some other one's i've watched (i've watched so so many trying to pick up on it) a guy called bustedboosted (i think) did a good one on pulling throttle body & i think i briefly saw a line attached but i couldn't make it out & he didn't talk about it. i think i may have read somewhere that not all the rigs used both but again i've watched so many. the thing is, is that if it indeed doesn't go anywhere important i would think it should be capped off. i have the 5.8 by the way, i can't believe i forgot to mention it. this is driving me crazy because i need to get it back on but i need to figure this out while i can still get to stuff, these van's are crazy hard to get to stuff on the top of the motor. i really appreciate you taking the time to even reply:)))
I'm only 22, and I bought a 94 f150 and looked under the hood. I straight up thought this guy put a coffee can in my truck as some hill billy mod 😂😂
It happens to all of us!😂😂😂
Dude I didn't realize that somebody replaced my battery with a regular car battery until we try to jump it with my boyfriend's truck and I was like, wait. Why is it so much smaller? They wedged in a chunk of two by four next to it so it wouldn't slide around! 😂😂
SAME DUDE! 1983 Ford and I opened it up for the first time and was staring at it a good 2 minutes trying to figure out what the hell a can was doing in my engine bay XD
I got my 96 f150 5.0 302 and it had been sitting in a garadge for at least 10 yrs and only has 130000 miles on it. It stood out to me because the body is in great shape no rust only minor paint scratches but after watching all these vids my engine and accessories look 10 times better than anything ive seen on here.
Nice! Good to hear man!
Hey Steve just wanted to let you know that I followed your video and started the vacuum lines and already noticed a big difference in the engine performance, while replacing lines I fixed my HVAC default problem and now the dash control works, thanks again for the video I’ll keep you posted when the rest of the lines are replaced keep up with the videos they’re a big help
That’s great to hear Jay! I’m glad I could help you out.
Yeah! Let me know!🤙
Man this video came in clutch. Have had my 92 F150 5.0 for about 2-3 months now and recently resealed the top end (expect for head gaskets) and all those form fitted vacuum lines broke just from the desert heat and with this knowledge I play on trying to hide everything a lot more for a cleaner engine bay.
Glad to hear it man! It’s definitely worth hiding the vacuum lines since they don’t look great.
Great video, wanted to add one note. Later in the OBS years ford changed the soup can vacuum canister to a plastic vacuum tank. I see them at junkyards alot. They are a direct drop in for the old rusty can, they look nicer and will never rust. Mine cost 2 dollars at the local jy. Goes great with new vacuum lines.
Thanks Joshua!🤙 I’ve heard that and now the coffee cans are hard to find. The link I have in the description is actually for the plastic vacuum reservoir.
my truck is a 1988 5.8L f250 and it came from the factory with the tall dual connection plastic vacuum canister. i guess it just depended on which factory line the truck was built and also what motor , trans was going in it
Man, this video would've saved me hours when I had to replace all the lines a previous owner removed with just my hood sticker as a reference... Best vac line video out there.
Yeah vacuum lines can be super confusing and the hood sticker is only so good.
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it! Thanks for watching!
@@TheMinuteMasters love your videos, they've saved me many times!
@@reidjohnston5057 I’m glad to hear it! I’ll keep them coming for ya!🤙
Just spent $300 for engine diagnostics and labor, mechanics accurately determined I needed to replace main vacuum harness on my 2001 Ford F-150 4.2 six cylinder. Engine was running with a rough idle, shutting down and/or stalling at traffic lights. OBD scanners I used at auto parts stores was giving conflicting readouts, saying lean idle and misfiring spark plugs but that basically was due to existing vacuum leaks. I first replaced IAC sensor and ignition coil pack before I took it to the shop. Probably could have avoided that but those are fairly easy to R&R.
Truck runs like new after the shop work was completed. Diagnostic from an experienced mechanic and an established repair shop was showing scanner codes PO171, PO174. That will indicate excessive air from a vacuum leak. So IMHO it sometimes will be the best choice to take it to a experienced shop rather than throwing money at replacement parts based soley on scanner codes.
Great to hear Nathan! Sometimes it is work going with an experienced mechanic. I don’t know the 97 and forward F150s. But OBD2 is a much better diagnostics system. It also helps mechanics can spend unlimited time finding an issue where is shade tree mechanics only have a few minutes here and there to spare.
You were a saint for filming all of this. Thank you. And thank you for the links
Pure gold info here. I broke a few testing, my egr valve and sensor.
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it.
Great video. I just bought a 96 F350 and used some of the info in your video during my walk around inspection of the truck. I'll be doing these repairs after the truck gets delivered.
Thanks man!🤙 Nice! That’s the best way to do an inspection.
I have an 89 250 van with the 5.0 and working on it is so nice with the doghouse. So much access to the back
Nice! I learned to drive on a 96 e250 and being able to remove the doghouse was awesome!
Thank you 95 f150 extended cab XLT Eddie Bauer 59,878 original miles. OH my hometown is Westchester, PA
All my vaccum lines and electrical were burnt this is alot of help thanks
No problem man!🤙 Thanks for watching!
I modify 1lb. propane cylinders. Vent them, drill holes in the center and shrader valve holes. Braze or solder short lengths of brake line tubing.
I need to do this on my '88 F-150, thanks for the video as a reminder.
It definitely cleans up the engine bay and gets the AC components working better.
@@TheMinuteMasters I bet, currently my vents go to defrost when I'm going up hill.
Yup! That happened to me too. You’re white vacuum line to the vacuum actuated door is probably disintegrated.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks for the video, currently going through issues one at a time on a '93 F-150 4.9L that's been just sitting on the family ranch since about 2010. Just going in the process of replacing the Alternator now, I like that your V8 engine mounting of the alternator has easier access to the bolts. The 4.9L is rather a pain since they face the fan, ended up stripping the bottom bolt that I also need to replace. That particular vacuum hose right at the beginning of this video is not even there anymore due to rats or something. Thanks again for the videos! #namaste 🙏🏼
@@gene118 No problem man! 🤙 Glad to hear you are able to start working on the old girl. Ford wasn’t very consistent with the alternator placements but the 5.0 definitely has the most accessible location.
Wow! You will definitely want to replace that particular vacuum line. The ECU will through a code without it.
Thanks man I had redone most of mine and the line that go to that blend door I had to put tape there like you did to
No problem man!🤙 Yeah I don’t know why Ford made that blend door metal vacuum lime so small or didn’t add a barb to it.
I love watching your videos but have you ever consider making a video on how to clean your engine bay
Thanks man!🤙 Actually I haven’t but I know it could use a good cleaning. It usually gets cleaner with each part I replace. Lol
I thought that was an old can of beans someone left to cook on the manifold
Right! Lolol
Hey man, looks like that original reservoir is no where to be found now, but luckily a friend of mine at Ford knew the superseded part number they upgraded it to. I made a video about it, and it works very well and it’s a direct fit!
Good to hear! I’ll watch your video. Do you have a part number or link to where you found it?
@@TheMinuteMasters yeah it’s in my video and in the description :)
@@obsnation Sweet! Thanks man!🤙
thank you for this. My vacuum lines are brittle and old on my 1994 bronco.
No problem Hector!🤙 Yeah mine too. Mostly near the edges of the engine bay.
That little white hose is the AC vacuum line and becomes brittle from the UV rays, common problem.
I just bought an 95 Eddie Bauer Edition F-150 Supercab that the previous owner removed the vacuum lines. He said it is causing a hesitation sometimes in the throttle. So I will look into replacing all those lines ASAP. I need the truck reliable for longer distance driving. I have not had a chance to drive very far with yet to see what other issues will pop up. Had a new PA Inspection on it when I bought so maybe all is good.
Nice! EBs are sweet broncos! Weird. I bet the throttle hesitation was from a vacuum leak. Anyhow, you’ll definitely want to get them replaced if you want a reliable DD. Good luck man!🤙
very good call on using the wrong line will collapse very true...
Thanks man!🤙
Same truck completely rebuilt my motor bored 30 over big cam dual exhaust deleted all that vacuum crap and ran my own and works like a charm got great heat breaks work fine and I got room for stuff with that vacuum canister gone
Nice! I’m sure once you deleted most of the vacuum lines, you didn’t need the vacuum canister. Have you dynoed the truck since finishing it?
Great video didn't know what that can was till now lol new obs owner
Thanks man!🤙 Trust me, I didn’t know when I was new to OBS fords.
Same here lol
For anyone else that runs into the cracking and crumbling line on the max A/C toggle, the vacuum line that you want is 3mm. It will be the perfect size to slip onto the actuator AND if you cut back the sleeve to get access to non crumbled line, it slips over without needing the electrical tape. Just letting anyone know that finds this
Good tip! Thanks Stevie!
Brake line works great in hot areas
The last thing that I cleaned out was the vapor line from the fuel tank to the evaporation canister/charcoal canister. Mine was completely clogged and would not allow the vapor to be caught and it built pressure up in my fuel tank, not good. You might check yours and replace the rubber lines and blow out the steel lines.
I’ll have to check that. Never really knew it could clog.
@@TheMinuteMasters The steel lines rust on the inside from atmosphere moisture. Gasoline does absorb moisture just as the steel of the fuel tank. That is how they rust inside.
@@TheMinuteMasters You might only have one tank and it might be plastic but still there is always moisture.
@@j.r.thompson5950 Gotcha. That makes sense.
@@j.r.thompson5950 That is definitely true.
I was looking all over for the reason my ac pretty much stops when I hard accelerate it's been driving me nuts thank you
Yup! It’s an easy fix!
Your shared work and efforts are greatly appreciated! I have the same problem with my 96 F150. Very grateful for your uploads on the subject! Thank you! However if I were to share information on a network, I'd make sure not to inadvertently share my home address (on the slip package). Looking forward to see more of your awesome work! Good day!
You’re welcome man!🤙 Yup, I did show my old home address. Now it probably has a new renter. Thanks for looking out for me though. You have a great day too!
Found that you can use a Plastic version of the Vacuum Reservoir. Part # 4C3Z-9E453-AA I have read in several places that it does work and the bolt holes line up.
Nice! 🤙 Good research. Plus the plastic won’t rust like the soup can will.
This is what I did on a 93 4.9 300 using one from a 2006 I believe, didnt pay attention to exact year. Has a 3rd mount bolt but it lines up with existing holes in fender liner.
++👍 on using silicon lines. my first experience w. vacuum lines was on old 240D-later on 6.5 TD. Nylon “emissions lines” do not hold up. Neither do chinese silicon lines--due to thin sidewalls. Essentially 3mm sidewalls work well...reinforced silicon even better😉
Thanks man!🤙 I’m glad you approve. I remember when I first research the subject, a lot of people talked about cheap silicone vacuum lines collapsing. I knew I didn’t want that to happen.
I used 3 mm gas line since no vacuum lines available. It worked well
I actually bought a kit that was specific to my 95. (Cant remember who made it) . The best thing about it was the lines were size and color specific. So for example, there were red lines. You found the red lines on the vehicle and replaced those, then the green so on and so on. You just had to cut to length. Very little waste.
That’s super cool! When I was looking into replacing the lines, I saw one guy who color coded all his lines. Makes me wonder now if he had the same kit.
Heat sink tubing works wonders for making connections and vacuum lines
I never thought about that. Thanks for the tip man!🤙
I'm new to you site and needed to know how the start from scratch with the vacuum line especially the ones that have emissions components... my sisters boyfriend ripped out some tunes and rerouted them to the wrong places & my car won't pass DEQ now. I have never had a problem with it passing DEQ since I bought it in 2012 (95 ford probe se)it drives but stalls and Jerks & shacks. The backfiring stopped when I put in a new mass air flow sensor. Is the a schematic a layperson can follow to replace the missing tubes?😢
Sometimes cars have a sticker diagram of the vacuum system under the hood. Otherwise, a Haynes manual might have a diagram. I would also internet search and see if one is out there.
As for installing them yourself, a vacuum diagram will show you what things get connected to the vacuum system. Ex. EGR to intake plenum. It won’t show you the exact route (kind of like an electrical diagram). You will just have to route them in whatever way works.
I'd lover your feed back and the community on something you touched on in this video. From some things I have watched it seems an ERG delete is not recommended but the smog pump and system can be removed. What do you think about this? I'd like to remove any parts not needed in the engine as I start to replace and clean it up. I also can not find a good video showing the smog system being removed. Thanks. And great video!
I agree. Deleting the EGR system isn’t recommended for sure. I think you can easily delete the smog setup. To delete it the smog system is pretty straightforward. You remove the serpentine belt and unbolt the smog pump. Then you will need a shorter serpentine belt. After that, you remove any related vacuum lines and plug/cap them. If your truck has the TAB and TAD system behind the intake plenum, you remove all of it. It does connect to the exhaust down pipe. You will need to cut it free and cap the hole in the exhaust pipe. I haven’t done this particular model but some other people can probably weigh in.
Great video! Do you know where that one line connected to the T fitting on the passenger side goes to? All 3 are black and the other two seem to go to the blower motor and through the firewall. The 3rd (that looks like you routed up and over the engine) seems to be hiding on my truck
Thanks man! It seems like the one you need is the red plastic Vacuum Wine. That connects into areas. One end goes to the vacuum canister/coffee can and the other is routed to the other side of the engine to the vacuum tree.
Do you ever notice rainwater entering the engine compartment on both sides of the truck? On the right flooding the actuator valve for the defrost and gets the whole heater blower wet, and on the left side it just runs down the firewall straight onto the computer? Seems like that little guard they have on the firewall is short on both ends and it just lets rainwater pour straight down your firewall.
That’s a good question. I’ve never observed that but I’ll have to check now.
Did you ever find a better fitting hose size for the actuator line? I'm genuinely curious. I plan on getting my AC fixed on my 95 5.0 and that hose has a few pinholes in it
I didn’t. The vacuum lines I used are the smallest diameter from that company. You could possibly source a smaller diameter vacuum line from another manufacturer.
Electric tape it is!!😏😒
Hello there! Just ran into your video was wondering the same question this fellow asked before about the diameter of the line for the actuator thanks bud hope all is well great vid
Hey From south jersey area, I just bought a 92 bronco from my neighbor, been sitting for ten years. Got it home put new gas and battery in it and started right up. But it's idling at like 2500 3000 rpm. I noticed the charcoal canister just sitting under the hood. Haven't had much time to look at it I'm hoping that is just the problem. Lol well see
So a couple of things can cause high idle. I would make sure all the vacuum lines or good, the intake is sealed, and all the sensors related to the intake are working (use a code reader for this).
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks for the advice I will definitely check all those things
Threw the code reader on , it was the tps sensor I switched it out and it runs great now thanks
Quick question at the end you said you bought an extra 5 feet of 5 mm hose but description says 6mm should I grab the 5ft of 5mm or 5ft more of 6mm???? Thank you!
I just looked at my invoices. I ordered 4mm, 6mm, 8mm, and 10mm. A month later I order more 4 mm.
@@TheMinuteMasters for sure thank you brother!
hello question on the list you have put down 4mm BUT you keep saying 5mm? I am about to make an order but want to make sure, thank you for your time and good videos..
So the description has the correct lengths and sizes that you need to order. Someone asked me the same question and I verified the info in the description.
Man, I have repaired the A/C vacuum line and immediately my truck stopped shuddering at high speeds and my check engine light (P0402 EGR code) went away immediately without having to disconnect the battery or clear the code.
Since then (just a week or so ago), I'm again having the A/C switch to defrost under load, the CEL is back on with the same code. So today I replaced my vacuum check valve and for about 10 miles I had zero problems with the A/C switching to defrost on me. I drove it around 10 miles and it sure enough started switching again on me. The CEL is not back on yet, but I fully expect it to.
The one thing that has been consistent since my first repair of the white line is that it no longer shudders at all. The truck runs fine, but I know I have the vacuum issue somewhere, I just can't figure out where!
That sucks you’ve been chasing this a while but you definitely have it narrow down to the vacuum system. At this point it’s not a bad idea to replace all the vacuum lines just to be on the safe side.
That is a purge valve solenoid that comes off the charcoal canister and then goes into the tb
Yes
What is next to the coffee can? Mine is torn up and would like to replace it. There are two hoses connected to where the drive belts are, they lead next to the coffee can and they have some odd attachments on them. I think they are both filters of some sort?
The other can next to the coffee can is the filter for the smog system. A lot of guys delete it along with the smog pump. I will keep mine until is fails.
Im diggin the blinggg battery posts!
Thanks man!🤙 I made a video about how to install them. Here’s the video👇
th-cam.com/video/Vt2ALTQNsyA/w-d-xo.html
i am ready to install the Brand New rebuild on the 302 1995 Bronco i did ,,, been a long hard job getting all the new parts together and the Machine shops very hard to deal with these days, they closed most of them in San Diego,,, long waits here, use to be 3 days to do a valve job, now 2 months if your very lucky... just sad.. cam took forever to get.. crank/rods/one head/ oil pan new /3 piece timing chain set/ roller cam and lifters new/ oil pump and pistons .030 new bore in a std block/ one piece rear main seal... installing new auto trans converter seal and changing out the oil and trans filter as well,,, now when i removed the 5.0L engine the vacuum lines just broke off under the coil and i am so sad that happen... any way thank for posting the video...
Nice! I can’t wait to rebuild mine. I hope machine shops are more readily available in my state. Anyhow, you should have one fast truck once your engine is installed.
You’re welcome man!🤙
My son bought an unfinished project truck that was a 95 f150 4x4. It came with an incomplete, brittle vacuum system. Where’s the best place to find a complete diagram as we are probably going to have to start from scratch?
Nice! That will be a fun project.
If you search vacuum diagrams online for your year, guys have put a few together or marked up pictures of their engine bays. I think at one time, there was a hood sticker with a diagram too.
Vacuum lines are something I wish was never invented, as I prefer electrical lines for signalling, but alas that's what we have to deal with. Great video. Thanks for posting. What's up with the different location today?
I agree. I think manufacturers use them because it’s cheap and easy.
Thanks man!🤙 I shoot most of my videos at my parents house. Vacuum lines are simple enough to work on, I decided to do the work in the street outside my apartment. Saves me a 40 minute one way drive.
Silicone windshield wiper hose will work for the small hoses. I have a 171 code whitch hunt going on. I'm searching frantically for a leak.
Good to know! I would definitely replace all the vacuum then. If you still have a leak then you’ll want to inspect your intake and related gaskets.
@@TheMinuteMasters NAPA and Amazon have it.
Hello, what fittings did you use to connect the old lines to the new ones? Specifically the 5/32 lonss that you used 4mm line to replace?
Auto parts stores sell packs of generic vacuum line connectors. For some of the connections, that’s what I used.
Hey man I just bought a 1989 ford f150 and also live in Philly. Would love to link up sometime if you’re interested. I’m also restoring it with/for my 17yo son. He didn’t know yet!
I’m having stalling issues right now someone said a vacuum leak so going to replace all the lines like you did.
Nice!
Dude, that would be awesome but I moved to Iowa in 2020. Otherwise, I would totally take you up on that.
Vacuum lines can definitely be the culprit. MAF sensor can cause stalling issues too. I would get a code reader and check the codes.
@@TheMinuteMasters oh wow Iowa?! Nice man hope you’re enjoying yourself out there.
Yea I have to look and see for these older vehicles what kind of scan tool I know it’s different than the newer obd2 right? It’s an obd1? Have to look that up on here. I’ll check the MAF sensor thanks.
@@kingstoeck Thanks! Dude, I love Philly but Iowa was a complete upgrade.
You will need an OBD1 scan tool. I have a full video on how to use it too.
Thanks for posting this man it helped immensely!
No problem man!🤙 I’m glad I was able to help ya out! Thanks for watching!
Another great video Jesse
Thanks Travis! I appreciate it!🤙
I have a 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis. It has a home made vacuum canister on it, that I think is leaking. Where can you get a NEW vacuum canister from ? Can you get the canister and all the vacuum lines in a kit ?
I would see if an auto parts store carries a new one. Otherwise, you can try eBay or Rock Auto.
I’d love to see a video like this for a 1990 f250 351w. That’s what I have and it was a mess under the H.O. from people doing things the wrong way. There is so much mom to the vacuum and evaporator system than there is on trucks after 1990. I have looked all over TH-cam and have only seen one or two videos with the same set up as my truck. Especially on the drivers side where the egr control solenoid area is. It’s rediculous. And I know there is still things wrong because my truck just dumps fuel in just from cranking the engine and floods it. Think I have some leaking injectors too
I think there are vacuum diagrams floating around the internet. Sometimes these trucks had a sticker of the vacuum layout under the hood.
@@TheMinuteMasters yes there is one on mine but it looks like there are some mods going on under there.. a lot of stuff for my evap system is on the back of the motor where it’s a pain in the ass to inspect or even get your hand in at. Let alone actual visually inspecting it. I have to use a diagnostic camera
@@joewarrick6043 Are the mods worth removing? Sometimes it’s good going back to stock and starting fresh.
Steve im having a problem with my truck wich is while
Im driving sometimes it shuts off for like 10 minutes and then starts right up and then it will shut off or it will
Not its very random any idea of what this could be ? ( replaced fuel pump and fuel regulator ) 🙏
Have you read your codes yet?
How and when does it shut off? Does it shut off while driving (moving) or when you come to a stop?
hello the part where you use the silicon tube for the vaccume ac, was that a 4mm? I am gonna purchase this item and do the trick you show to fix my ac that stuck on Defrost. I wanna make sure I purchase the right measurement for the 3.7 vacuum tube and do the electrical tape trick.
Yes, I believe that was a piece of 4mm I had lying around.
@@TheMinuteMasters ok, thank you for taking the time for letting me know sir.
I’m looking to do the vacuum lines while I have the motor out, can you post the inventory list and sizes you used? Thanks, very detailed video by the way
I bought
1 foot of 10 mm
1 foot of 8 mm
5 feet of 6 mm
15 feet of 4mm
If I remember correctly, I ran out of a particular size. It might have been 4mm. I think I ended up buying another 5 feet more of it.
I'm searching all over to find out what the two electrical components on the top driver side are that you didn't replace and where those lines go. If anyone knows I'd appreciate the enlightenment.
Those are called the TAB and TAD and they are emissions related hoses that go to the backing system behind the engine. Now one of those hoses does go to the EGR valve though.
What’s that box under the first ac line you changed
If you are referring to the box down below the battery, that’s the charcoal box used to filter the vent from the fuel tank.
The box up near the firewall next to the passenger side fender is the fan blower box.
thanks for this. is it the same for a 5.8?
also, a few of my fittings have the original tubing stuck in there -- would Dorman 47432 be the right part to replace them?
Do you know where I can find a diagram? I have a 95 so it’s MAF, but all the diagrams I see have map sensors.
I don’t have a diagram. The best I have is this video. I may film a diagram video for everyone to reference though.
Did the lines collapse at all? I’m about to use the website instead of local parts store.
Nope! Still working like a charm!
Could you please make a video of where every vacuum line goes. My truck every line is gone
Do you need more detail than this video?
@@TheMinuteMasters a little bit. I can't find any diagrams for the vacuum system
I replaced my vacuum canister with one that I got off a Ford ranger. The ranger one is plastic and shaped like a ball and it can be bolted to the inner fender in place of the original. It won't rust like the original style metal one.
Nice! That’s a great idea! Does it have two ports on it like the coffee can?
@@TheMinuteMasters the Ranger vacuum canister actually has 3 ports on it. I just bought those little rubber caps from autozone and capped the extra port.
@@TheMinuteMasters I just subscribed. You have good content and you're straight to the point no rambling on.
@@kylestivers4606 Good to know Kyle! Thanks for sharing!🤙
@@kylestivers4606 Thank you Kyle! 🤙 I appreciate it!
I thought that was the purge valve solenoid? Did you say it was a idle position sensor?
Without re-watching the video I think you’re correct, it’s the purge valve solenoid. I don’t think I called it the IAC valve.
I can’t find that vacuum canister ANYWHERE. Any help greatly appreciated?!
From what viewers have been telling me, they are near impossible to find. I recommend finding an equivalent canister from a new Ford. One of my watches recommends this part:
Ford E8TE-9E453-ba
1990 F150 straight 6. Are all my vac lines the same hose size? Can I just buy a bunch of hose and replace line by line so I know where they all go?
Typically four or 5 mm covers a lot of the bases. If you’re unsure, you can always buy 10 feet of each size. I just see how far you get.
@@TheMinuteMasters Where can I buy the coffee cans?
@@mitchellscottmoreau I used to have a link for h to me but they must have sold out. In the video description I have a part number for the “upgraded” vacuum reservoir.
great video. Quick question ,I replaced all vacuum lines, but now when I accelerate the engine light comes ont. Engine runs fine but this light only comes when press the accelerator. Any idea why? thanks
Interesting. I wonder if now that your vacuum lines are working that there’s another related part that isn’t. I would read your codes. If the engine light comes on it’s definitely going to throw a code.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks! I will do that
Question? I want to know where do the vacuum comes from to run the ac controls and doors.
I believe it all comes from the vacuum tree on the drivers side of the intake plenum.
ive got one betyer then that,take metal brake line and bend it to the exact shape you want,cut it to length.paint it.slide it inside the rubber boot ends,you are done with your vaccum likes forever,they will never crack or lrak again,and cannot colapse.
I never thought about that, but that’s an excellent idea!
Hey man the vaccum line at 5:18 with the blue line where does it go cause mine vroke i cant seem to find it i know there 2 the one that goes to the litle vacum box but the second one i cant find it
Good question Miguel! That vac line may connect go into the wiring harness like the white one that fees the blend door actuator.
Where did you get the coffee vacuum can from?😅 I been looking but can’t fine it.
I bought it on Amazon. However, they have since discontinued the coffee can.
What size hose did you have to use for the blend door actuator?
I can’t remember off hand, but it was either 4 mm or 5 mm.
assuming all the lines on the site you linked are measured in OD?
That’s a good question. I never bothered the check. Could be ID
Great video. Your vehicle is about the same as mine. Do you know where the MAP is located?
Thanks man!🤙 So my truck has MAF which if I understand this correctly, replaced the MAP system.
@@TheMinuteMasters
Amazing Video! I'm gonna do this today or tomorrow to my 1988 f150 302 (automatic trans 2WD). One question for you, @ 5:19 there's that plastic check valve, my check valve only has in and out, yours has 3 hoses (one extra going down towards the transmission it looks like). Is your truck a manual or 4WD? Not sure if I'm missing a line or not. When I look on Ebay for a replacement check valve it says the one you have is the correct valve, but I'm not sure if it's taking everything into account (trans/AC/4WD or 2WD). If you remember where that line goes to, I could always cross ref too. Thanks again for the vid! Cheers!
Thanks Christopher!🤙 I appreciate it!
So the line that goes off the bottom of that T hooks to a sealed plastic piece that attaches to the side of the AC evaporator box. If you watch my video on how to insulate that box you’ll have a better idea of where it connects to. My truck is 2wd/AC/no cruise/MAF.
Thx for your video and thorough guidance I have been a subcriber of yours. I have the same problem with that white vacuum line at 5:52 I have a 1990 Ford F150 4x4 5.0 liter. You said you cut an inch of black electrical tape so it could hold better. Has it been holding up or has it fallen apart? Or did you come up with a better idea? Thanks your a life saver.
No problem man!🤙 I’m glad I can help ya out. Nice! So far that fix with the electrician tape has been working great! Honestly, if you never plan on taking the vacuum system apart again, you could add glue to the outside of the white vacuum line. Then glue the two pieces together. Otherwise, my fix has been going strong for over a month now. You are most welcome man! Thanks for subscribing and watching!
What's the name of the glue I should use to make the 2 pieces of vacuum hose stick together? Thanks for responding so quick.
@@ThaHandyman1212 I think regular Elmers glue will do the trick. Any multi purpose glue. You mostly need to to hold a tiny bit.
No problem man!🤙
question on the 95 truck....does the PCV valve hose on the passenger side connect to the plenum intake directly above on your engine or was it routed back around to the vacuum tree? Ford issued a bulletin in the early 90's on this as it was causing cylinder 8 to carbon up and eventually fail. solution was rerouting where the emissions crud was going ie: location where the new tap was being made on the intake.
So my PCV is routed to the passenger side of the intake plenum and it’s tapped into the side of the plenum near the vacuum tree.
So are you saying the bulletin advises against that?
@@TheMinuteMasters sounds like the mid 90's version of the routing takes into account the fix then. the issue was for late 80's to early 90's they routed the PCV line directly to the intake plenum where cylinder 8 would be affected by the gas/oil mixture causing excessive carbon building and premature failure of that piston.
I can send you the image for the initial routing and tapping the used in the plenum at the back of the passenger side of the intake if interested.
@@mackendw Sure!
sxtreacy@gmail.com
I'm having trouble finding a vacuum canister for my 1995 Ford F150 5.0. any suggestions
These vacuum reservoirs are hard to find. Are used to have a link in the description but those reservoirs have since been all bought. I recommend trying to find a reservoir with and inlet and outlet.
I NEED YOUR HELP 😂 so at 10:33. that yellow vacuum line there. what's that for. I just found mine cut off. I'm trying to find where it's going. is it for the EGR valve??? I know that one is green then turns yellow. but I have it hooked up to another green spot vacuum hose that was cut in the same module.
That yellow one routes the the thermactor valve on the back side of the engine. I believe a green vac line runs to the thermactor valve as well.
Can’t get that vacuum canister anymore. The plastic newer ones are all gone from the junk yards too
Have you tried searching the part number in the description?
need help. I think my evap canister mess up. I can't pump gas in my truck. the pump just doesn't go. I think it's cause the vapors. gonna replace it and see what happens. would that be the trick?
So a couple of things can cause this issue. Gas caps are supposedly mean to vent a little. So new gas caps can help. Installed in the top of each tank is a vent valve that can potentially go bad. The last part that can get clogged is the charcoal canister in the engine bay just below the battery tray. The vent valve on the tanks connects to the charcoal canister/box. Replacing any of those parts could be the fix for you.
@@TheMinuteMasters thank you so much. I ended up replacing the evap canister and my truck runs alot better. the one I had was clogged. I tested. used take off rough at first. it's manual. now it takes off smoother and I feel like it has more power. I was able to pump gas today normally too. so it fixed ot
@@rromero1091 No problem man! Glad the new Evap canister worked for you.
great video... but i cant find the can anywhere online.
Thanks man!🤙 So from what I’ve heard the cans are becoming hard to find. Are used to have a link in the description but the link is no longer good. I replaced the link with another vacuum reservoir that a subscriber said worked.
i built a smoke machine to find the vacuum leaks in my 1988 5.8L f250. i found leaks i didnt know i had and repaired them all. there was one leak i couldnt figure out how to fix. it was leaking out of the bottom where the throttle position sensor was on the throttle body. while i was replacing the thermostat i figured out how to seal that throttle body leak at the TPS.. i took the throttle body off and removed the TPS. i sprayed the cavity out with carb cleaner. then used q-tips to wipe it out. then i cut the end off of a q-tip and dabbed RTV around the bearing and the case of the throttle body and around the rod and bearing. i put enought to the outer and inner races of the bearing, then took other q-tips ( with the cotton on it ) and wiped around the shaft and outer race to where there was enough left to fill in around the outer race of bearing and the throttle body case and the rod and inner race of the bearing and let it set up over nite. it sealed that leak up just fine. that little whistle was gone and the iac didnt open and close so much out of the normal function. for faster results you can use the 90 minute RTV and let it set up for 2 or 3 hours then reassemble . hope this helps anyone trying to find that one vacuum leak thats hiding from you. sorry this was so long
Hey this was great info! I think vacuum leaks are a huge cause for erratic idle in these old trucks and they are difficult to fix if you don’t have a smoke machine.
This amount work for F250 5.8L?? Trying to figurte out what i need and how much
The amount of work should be very similar. If you want to play it safe, you can always order a little extra vac line.
Hey buddy is me again my 95 does not have that canister it has a different set up is there anywere were i can send you pictures
You sure can Juan!👇
sxtreacy@gmail.com
Can you show me where the smog pump converter goes on a 1991 f-150 5.0 ????
Smog pump converter?
@@TheMinuteMasters to me it almost looks like a tree except for it's got hoses it's not small vacuum lines it does have two things on it that does have vacuum lines though but the rest of it is big hoses.
@@TheMinuteMasters I was told it was a smog pump converter or a valve pressure air I'm a 65 year old woman I don't know what these things are called but I'm doing my own work on my truck
I'm in the process of doing this now. I replaced a section already to the charcoal cannister - seems to have made a little difference already. I'll have to go around and check all the other areas for cracked vac lines.
After that fixing a bucking problem I have. Either fuel/air related or electrical. I replaced the EGR - no difference, replaced the fuel filter, small improvement, replaced Spark Plug wires huge improvement but still bucks and lags and sometimes dies under load. Next is to check for more air leaks, check distributor, modify the EGR and check the cat.
Have you run into any of these issues? Thanks
I haven’t had a bucking issue but I would read your codes first to see if it’s sensor related.
@Minute Masters I just watched your vid on the OBD1 scanner. Just ordered it, thanks a bunch for doing all those good videos.
@@lupegalvan9993 did you ever solve the bucking ?
@Clint Duross well I had burned out spark plug wires ans replaced those and big improvement. I just pulled codes with my OBD1 scanner and got a TPS code so that is next. My last option if this doesn't fix it will be to modify the egr. I also have read that pulling the 02 sensor on the cat to see if it's catalytic converter related. So right now I'm at TPS replacement. I'll post a reply if the throttle position sensor replacement fixes the bucking
@Minute Masters replaced the TPS. Runs way better! Good throttle response and nice quiet idle. It has the tiniest hesitation running in 3rd very very slight not a bucking any more. So I think this is a win! EGR mod next. Thanks for posting the OBD1 video huge help!
Hey i just found a correct size Vacuum hose that is tight in those 1/8'' plastic lines it is a 7/64'' hose fits tight...
Nice! Thanks for sharing John!🤙 7/64 must be the smallest vacuum line available.
looks like mayfair 🤘🏻
Roxborough 🤙
Hello!! I can't find the location of my map sensor in my truck it's a ford f150 5.0 96 eddi bauer help!!!! It's not where it's supposed to be
I’ll need to check in mine. I haven’t replaced it.
Other thought, doesn’t the MAF sensor replace the MAP sensor?
Hahaha, when I first got my 95 F150 i didn't know what the vacuum cansiters actually were and I just called them the tomato sauce cans
Hahahaha!!🤣 Close enough! It legit looks like a Bush’s Baked Beans can. Lol
Where did you get the Vacuum canister?? I cant find one !!
From what I’m hearing, they are near impossible to find.
So how much of the 4 mm line did you use to do all that. I have a 94 F-150 5.0 I'm going to redo the vacuum lines on, pretty much everything you did in this video.
Hi Ryan! I initial bought 15 feet then I bought another 5 feet to finish. So 20 feet should do it.
@@TheMinuteMasters ok awesome thank you.
@@ryangarner6099 You’re welcome Ryan!🤙
my 1992 f150 5.0 has a little bit of a fast idle and hard shifting in transmission. it’s cat/emissions deleted what do you think it could be? i replaced throttle position sensor it helped a little but could it be the map sensor? it also has some vacuum lines and coffee can disconnected.
I would get a code reader and read your codes first. That could help you out a lot.
Getting all the vacuums lines replaced/reconnected would help too.
@@TheMinuteMasters ok thanks. i do have a code reader! i’ll try it out
@@TheMinuteMasters i fixed it lol it was the map sensor. it still shifts hard when i go full throttle but that’s e40d stuff lol. also it has a brand new transmission from jasper
@@dawson_5.0 nice!
Yup, rebuilt transmissions typically get shift kits that firm up the shifting.
BTW. Of course I seen the video of you putting blue silicone vacuum lines, what happened with those? Have a great day. Also you keep mentioning that you have to keep buying 5 mm, I believe it's 4 mm because I didn't see five on your invoice.
I replaced the blue silicone with black. That was a temporary repair with some left over blue I had from a previous vehicle.
I would go by the invoice sizes. I don’t recall returning any of the vacuum lines.
@@TheMinuteMasters appreciate you. We all do
@@hondaslave-kd6hi Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it!
Can you make a video on how to delete all the emissions crap on these trucks?
I may eventually when my emission stuff craps out. Right now it all works.
If you want to delete everything. You basically unbolt the smog pump and buy a shorter serpentine belt.
Any of the emissions related vacuum lines you unplug and cap. The TAB/TAD valve behind the intake plenum has a pipe that connects to the exhaust. You need to cut that pipe off at the exhaust and patch it.
Are these brand vacuum lines still doing good?
So far so good!