If the bogie wheels are ok, you still need to replace the bearings. You can definitely hear resistance in several of your track bearings. Find all grease fitting points. Also check all the shocks. It would have helped in the beginning to take the tank off thoroughly clean it out. Also put a screen on your pickup line. Inline filter too. Glad you were able to get some fun on her.
There’s a helix in the reverse drive and it’s probably stripped out. You guys will have lots of fun and there’s you tube videos for everything you need to know to keep your machines running. Enjoy guys and live life to the fullest. 👍👍👍👍🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦
Yeah. The pick up line had to be improvised. The original broke off. I wish I put a filter on there too, but now I don’t want to mess with that fuel tank grommet. I didn’t film much of that, but it was not easy to install that grommet
I would use premixed fuel when doing a revival on a 2 stroke machine as if the oil tank pump is bad you can cook the motor. I think you could use your bearing trick and remove the plastic covers on all the bearings and clean them and add new grease. The mixture screws should be air mixture as they are on the intake side. If on the engine side they are fuel mixture adjustment screws. So if you need more fuel on your set up it should be turn the screws in to limit the air to match your fuel load. Maybe get a clamp incase you flood it to hold the throttle down.
Sounds like it was running lean. Slow to ramp up and RPM’s are staying high. I guess the problem was water in the gas. Great fun. Thank you for sharing.
I agree. Once we were in New York we could tell it was running differently. I’m blaming the water for now. I’m sure there will be lots of other problems that arise- it’s an old sled!
Kyle, did you figure what exactly the adjustment screws were for on the carbs and did you mess around with the mixture and idle at all to maybe tune them better and equally?
@@Rein_Ciarfella after cleaning the carbs, I reset the mixture screws to their original spots. So, I haven’t messed with those yet- but I likely will once I spend some significant time ridding the sled to see how it behaves. The only screws I’ve adjusted so far are the idle speed
Hey Kyle. Just a lil FYI for you. When you put your sled into storage, you really should elevate the track of the ground. It will extend the life of it by not rotting from ground moisture. I used to live in N. Michigan and almost always had a snowmobile and that's what we did.
Interestingly the storage container created a very moist environment. The original owner said there was so much condensation inside the storage container that he would periodically open the container door just to air it out
Followup to my previous question - I haven’t seen anything about how to tune a dual carb setup so both cylinders are balanced or even if it’s necessary or helps in any way. The only dual carb setup I’ve worked on had throttle and choke levers connected so they operated together and I never needed to get them off the machine to clean so I never had occasion to look for mixture or pilot circuit adjustments. This is something I’ve just wondered about for a while.
As long as the idle screws are adjusted the same, then the throttle will operate both carbs in the same way. The mixture screws are another thing though. I know they make carb devices that help balance motorcycle and outboard carbs, but I have zero experience with those devices.
When I first saw that rusted level indicator mechanism, I thought...clean that tank really well 1st thing you do.... Something in the drive still sounds bad (a bearing from a roller or something like that)
Yes, knowing how bad the fuel at the bottom was, I should have cleaned the tank. I was distracted by how clean the fuel was flowing when I primed it and changed the lines and fuel pump- everything looked good. But the bottom of the tank had lots of water as I showed you all. And the water didn’t become a problem until the sled was transported and it sloshed around. Anyway, I solved the problem. Also, yes there is some squeaking/seized bearing noise. Probably a seized idler. I’ll figure it out and change it if necessary. It’s not perfect. Thanks for watching
You need to get a service manual and go thru that machine top to bottom. The noise in the track is more than likely rusted bearings in the idler wheels.
I’m not planning on going through it top to bottom, but I agree about the noise. I’ll definitely be keeping my eye and ear out for all that stuff. You guys got to see its first ride just like me, so we all know it was bound to show some other issues. Thanks for watching
Now all the ole girl needs is a full day out on the snowmobile trails to work out all the bugs and give it a good run. My advise when you do give it a full day run. Put seafoam in with your fuel
and keep priming and shooting direkt gas in to the engine! you are flooding it! just prime max 1-2 no more and keep trying to start it! and all that water whent in the carbs way to long ago! I was thinking water when i saw that fuelgauge! good video as always, keep up the good work :)
I was just trying to figure it out. Sometimes it seemed like it wanted multiple prime pumps. Later in the video I talk about how I believed that I flooded it.
and when you flood it, hold the throttle wide open while puling fast and hard. When the engines cold do 1 to 2 shots of primer and then baby it with short sqirts of the primer till it comes to life.
@@justinsnyder6256 the problem with this sled is that it’s so hard to pull start that I need both hands to do so. So, I can’t hold the throttle wide open at the same time. It likely needs more carb adjustment, but I haven’t had the sled running enough to really dial it in. It’ll get there with time though- but I know it’s hard to watch something not start or run perfectly on TH-cam.
@Kylebythecreek i have a zip tie that's just the right size that it holds the throttle open, but as soon as it starts, you can slip it off. It's not just gonna rev right to the moon when flooded. it's gonna smoke bad and struggle to gain rpms. that's when you get on it and hold it wide open and take a hate rip lol. it's super easy to flood them. I also just watched a video on how hard it is to pull start. I have a 99 formula 500 that's super easy to pull. I guess they redesigned the pull starter and you can use that newer style on older sleds to make it easier to pull.
Those primers are junk even from skidoo. They will usually only last a season. The seals dry out super quick. These engines really needs it to get it started. When its struggling best thing to do is fearher the throttle.
@Kylebythecreek i think the issue is the gas drains or evaporates and kills the seals. The appropriate thing would be to keep fuel or something in the primer on the off season so the rubber doesn't get hard.
Here I am scrolling through TH-cam looking for a new video to watch and you pop up and answer my prayers 👍🏻
😂 You da MAN!
Glad to help!! Thanks for watching Hester!
I had a 96 Mach1 670 with factory twin pipes. She was a rocket !
Cool! I want to get more sleds of the riding is good
If the bogie wheels are ok, you still need to replace the bearings. You can definitely hear resistance in several of your track bearings. Find all grease fitting points. Also check all the shocks. It would have helped in the beginning to take the tank off thoroughly clean it out. Also put a screen on your pickup line. Inline filter too. Glad you were able to get some fun on her.
Thanks!
There’s a helix in the reverse drive and it’s probably stripped out. You guys will have lots of fun and there’s you tube videos for everything you need to know to keep your machines running. Enjoy guys and live life to the fullest.
👍👍👍👍🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦
Thanks for the tip!
awesome video the 669cc are very zeeee. very fast but reliable sleds. when the skid doesnt move, pick up the rear end and drop it
Stored inside...it'll run.
Need a filter and pickup line into the tank
Yeah. The pick up line had to be improvised. The original broke off. I wish I put a filter on there too, but now I don’t want to mess with that fuel tank grommet. I didn’t film much of that, but it was not easy to install that grommet
I would use premixed fuel when doing a revival on a 2 stroke machine as if the oil tank pump is bad you can cook the motor. I think you could use your bearing trick and remove the plastic covers on all the bearings and clean them and add new grease. The mixture screws should be air mixture as they are on the intake side. If on the engine side they are fuel mixture adjustment screws. So if you need more fuel on your set up it should be turn the screws in to limit the air to match your fuel load. Maybe get a clamp incase you flood it to hold the throttle down.
Sounds like it was running lean. Slow to ramp up and RPM’s are staying high. I guess the problem was water in the gas. Great fun. Thank you for sharing.
Good tip. Thank you!
I agree. Once we were in New York we could tell it was running differently. I’m blaming the water for now. I’m sure there will be lots of other problems that arise- it’s an old sled!
And I little trick to start is. One handing pulling the cord and the other one with the throttle open you will save your back
I wish I could. It’s almost impossible to pull start it with one hand
Very nice video. It is running off the tank but just bump up the idle a bit to keep it running it's to low
Any idea what the rpms should be at idle?
Kyle, did you figure what exactly the adjustment screws were for on the carbs and did you mess around with the mixture and idle at all to maybe tune them better and equally?
@@Rein_Ciarfella after cleaning the carbs, I reset the mixture screws to their original spots. So, I haven’t messed with those yet- but I likely will once I spend some significant time ridding the sled to see how it behaves. The only screws I’ve adjusted so far are the idle speed
Hey Kyle. Just a lil FYI for you. When you put your sled into storage, you really should elevate the track of the ground. It will extend the life of it by not rotting from ground moisture. I used to live in N. Michigan and almost always had a snowmobile and that's what we did.
Thanks!
I have high hopes, given that it was stored INSIDE rather than outside like the rest of the junk we work on! 😉👍
Interestingly the storage container created a very moist environment. The original owner said there was so much condensation inside the storage container that he would periodically open the container door just to air it out
Followup to my previous question - I haven’t seen anything about how to tune a dual carb setup so both cylinders are balanced or even if it’s necessary or helps in any way.
The only dual carb setup I’ve worked on had throttle and choke levers connected so they operated together and I never needed to get them off the machine to clean so I never had occasion to look for mixture or pilot circuit adjustments.
This is something I’ve just wondered about for a while.
As long as the idle screws are adjusted the same, then the throttle will operate both carbs in the same way. The mixture screws are another thing though. I know they make carb devices that help balance motorcycle and outboard carbs, but I have zero experience with those devices.
@@Kylebythecreek
I guess that’s what I was getting at. 👍
Idle screw adjust how far down they will go, throttle cable has adjustment for "sync" the carbs and oil pump adjustment all work together
When I first saw that rusted level indicator mechanism, I thought...clean that tank really well 1st thing you do....
Something in the drive still sounds bad (a bearing from a roller or something like that)
Yes, knowing how bad the fuel at the bottom was, I should have cleaned the tank. I was distracted by how clean the fuel was flowing when I primed it and changed the lines and fuel pump- everything looked good. But the bottom of the tank had lots of water as I showed you all. And the water didn’t become a problem until the sled was transported and it sloshed around. Anyway, I solved the problem. Also, yes there is some squeaking/seized bearing noise. Probably a seized idler. I’ll figure it out and change it if necessary. It’s not perfect. Thanks for watching
Check your brakes. I've seen many sleds do that from sitting
Brakes work
You need to get a service manual and go thru that machine top to bottom. The noise in the track is more than likely rusted bearings in the idler wheels.
I’m not planning on going through it top to bottom, but I agree about the noise. I’ll definitely be keeping my eye and ear out for all that stuff. You guys got to see its first ride just like me, so we all know it was bound to show some other issues. Thanks for watching
Now all the ole girl needs is a full day out on the snowmobile trails to work out all the bugs and give it a good run. My advise when you do give it a full day run. Put seafoam in with your fuel
I agree! I have the paper work to register both sleds. There’s miles of trails in our area up north!
and keep priming and shooting direkt gas in to the engine! you are flooding it! just prime max 1-2 no more and keep trying to start it! and all that water whent in the carbs way to long ago! I was thinking water when i saw that fuelgauge! good video as always, keep up the good work :)
I was just trying to figure it out. Sometimes it seemed like it wanted multiple prime pumps. Later in the video I talk about how I believed that I flooded it.
@Kylebythecreek haha yea saw that! But good job as always 😊
and when you flood it, hold the throttle wide open while puling fast and hard.
When the engines cold do 1 to 2 shots of primer and then baby it with short sqirts of the primer till it comes to life.
@@justinsnyder6256 the problem with this sled is that it’s so hard to pull start that I need both hands to do so. So, I can’t hold the throttle wide open at the same time. It likely needs more carb adjustment, but I haven’t had the sled running enough to really dial it in. It’ll get there with time though- but I know it’s hard to watch something not start or run perfectly on TH-cam.
@Kylebythecreek i have a zip tie that's just the right size that it holds the throttle open, but as soon as it starts, you can slip it off. It's not just gonna rev right to the moon when flooded. it's gonna smoke bad and struggle to gain rpms. that's when you get on it and hold it wide open and take a hate rip lol. it's super easy to flood them. I also just watched a video on how hard it is to pull start. I have a 99 formula 500 that's super easy to pull. I guess they redesigned the pull starter and you can use that newer style on older sleds to make it easier to pull.
Your letting that run way to long without anything to cool off the engine, good way to fry it
Dude! Get your kid out of that thick smoke. FFS
Did you hear me say “get out of that smoke”?
Those primers are junk even from skidoo. They will usually only last a season. The seals dry out super quick. These engines really needs it to get it started. When its struggling best thing to do is fearher the throttle.
@@justinsnyder6256 good to hear. The first one I had blew the seal so quick.
@Kylebythecreek i think the issue is the gas drains or evaporates and kills the seals. The appropriate thing would be to keep fuel or something in the primer on the off season so the rubber doesn't get hard.
No way it should take that many pulls to start that sled you got other problems