As usual sir, you performed a thorough, methodical procedure with clear cinematography and detailed overhaul so even a novice can follow along with and replicate. Gracias!
The biggest benefit to your video is that what you may consider to be obsessive, is what teaches me the most. You break all of your videos down to small steps and describe everything beautifully. Thank you for your efforts.
Wow I appreciate the time and effort when you can’t find parts, fortunately I can imagine this is around the $25 range on most vehicles IMO not worth the time but when and if you cant find these anymore like an old vette this guy will be a valuable source of info
Thank you! Yes, this is one of those parts that can be easily and cheaply replaced. But a lot of these C3s are in countries where sometimes you can’t just go to the auto parts store to get a cheap replacement, and the only alternative is to try to fix what you have, so sometimes I do little projects just to see if I can. lol 😆 And if it helps one person, it was worth the time and effort. Thank you for watching! 😊👍🏻
I watched every second. Thank you so much for doing this video! Outstanding Sir! Now I know why my ignition switch got so stiff when the temp drops below freezing. It needs cleaned out and some grease put in there! I will look for the little ball bearings to make sure they're not missing, or out of place.
Thank YOU!! You just saved me. The chin#$* replacement switch...the blue one I bought for a 84 k10 4wd...was total junk. I had to remove 3 coils off the big spring and 1 1/2 coils from the 2 springs that held the cross roller pin. Before I did all this the spring pressure was so great that you could not move the slide al all! I know it won't last long! Trying to find a OEM switch for a non-tilt column...no luck yet.
This video is so good it should be the "Standard". Meaning if you can't make a video like this one... DON'T. Most bad ignition start switches are completely destroyed, burnt, melted or exploded into pieces. I have noted over the years that most GM switches are almost identical and didn't really change much until we got push start buttons. GM added the interlock cable from the trans shifter to prevent starting in gear and I think all were mounted to the top of the column making them a real treat to get to. Even so, a bad switch was rare. More battery cables or terminals than switches. Anyway, thanks for the video.
I disassembled my switch today, inside I found sticky dried grease, decades old dirt and some wear on the contact bars, at least as much shown here. I used a small wire wheel in the dremel to losen and remove grime from the bars and contact strips along with methyl ethyl keytone solvent to wash all the metal parts in and wipe the inside of the contact shell For the copper bars, I made sure to swap them around into different positions in attempt to make use of the unworn surfaces. I didn't try reshaping the worn areas of the bars but that could be an option. Put it all back together, remounted the switch in the same position as original and re-mounted the steering column. The original ignition switch now works as it should and I anticipate my starter will engage every time, this was the failure mode of my ignition switch. This was a little tedious but worthwhile to me without replacing with an aftermarket switch of unknown quality (ordered one just in case, it has yet to arrive).
Thank you so much! I was having a problem understanding how to assemble the switch to the steering column. I wondered how the linkage worked because I had it rotated 90 degrees.
@@76vette Most switches I have seen are not oriented like this switch; on your steering column your connectors come in from the side but all the other switches I have seen come in from the top; I'm not sure how the rod joins the switch in both of those cases.
Hello C3 Corvette..do you have a video of a GM Dimmer Switch Repair for a 94 chevy c1500..Your video is really relaxing and fun to watch..very passionate and have alot of patience explaining your hard work..very well explained 😀..I aslo like fixing stuff that can be fixable or rebuilt
really good video! you made it look easy. I have done three of these switches and it took me a while to figure everything out. I did notice something though, the little round flat piece that goes on the bottom of the slider, not positive but I don't think it goes where you put it. I think it goes in the hole right in the middle of the slider. it provides a click or notch feeling when it comes in contact with the hole on the metal piece. Possibly when you turn the key to off, or accessory. Also it seemed to work good when you tried it but it is adjustable. you can loosen the screws and slide it forward or backwards a little. Great Job!!
Thanks. You may be right about that little round piece, but that spot was the only place where it would fit, at least from what I could tell. And yes, everything appeared to work fine when I tested it and like you said the switch can be adjusted a bit if necessary. 😊👍🏻
Oh, and I recently sold the steering column to a guy fixing a ‘75 Vette. I sold it for $300 which I think was a fair price and gives him a little wiggle room if he wants to buy a new switch. 😊👍🏻
This round rivet-looking pin was inserted from inside the slider on mine, under the two large roller springs and protrudes slightly through the slider. I'm not sure what purpose it serves but that's where it was. My switch (1984 non-tilt) had two steel roller bars in the place where his switch has the three steel roller balls.
Is the same switch system on my 76 chevy trunk ? Key Not wanting to turn to the Start position Have to keep turning and wiggling key till it goes to the start position Excellent video ....
What were the symptoms of this failing? I have a 1971 Buick Skylark and it starts and runs then shuts itself off like I just turned the key off. The key and the barrel look new and don't feel tight or loose or anything weird, just like a nice new car. They feel great. Sometimes when it dies, it doesn't want to start. I check for spark and nothing but it cranks, sometimes slow like a dead battery but then all of a sudden it will start like it is supposed to. I've ordered one of these and I'm hoping it gets the car going and staying going. Any input would be appreciated.
As you probably know, it’s impossible to properly diagnose a car issue via text, and unless the problem you’re having has been isolated to a starting switch issue, you may end up replacing parts until you stumble on a solution. That can be expensive and time consuming. At first glance it sounds like an electrical issue and I suggest you get that diagnosed properly. The switch I rebuilt was corroded and pretty much locked up. Good luck getting your car sorted out, and thank you for watching. 😊👍🏻
I've had the exact same problem. Turned out to be the module that needed replacement, cheap and easy fix. It is located somewhere in or near the delco if i remember good.
Great detail in this video. You show each step in the shot and also describe what you're doing. Did you notice a difference in feel when you turned the key compared to before you did this repair?
Hi, great video. I have an issue with my 1972 c3. The ignition is stuck in run position and the key can’t be turned back. Do you think this might be this switch? Also do I need take the column out like you have or can you get to it by just dropping it down? Thanks again for the video.
I think you can take the switch off to test it without removing the steering column, just dropping it. I would definitely remove the driver’s seat though as there’s very little room. Also, I am unable to diagnose car issues remotely for obvious reasons.
I was looking to install an ignition switch on my Vette and was wondering why it wasnt working after watching your video i realized the mounting bracket is manufactured backwards, so back to the store for a new switch😂👍
Yeah, I heard another comment about that from someone a while back. Not sure why they make some with the bracket installed backwards. I’m sure it’s for another vehicle. Glad to hear the video was helpful. 😊👍🏻
I have an electric water pump fuel pump and fans my water pump and fans wont come on when in the on position is it possible that the ignition switch be the cause of the problem
I am not familiar with electric pumps or fans but in some cases, when they are controlled by some sort of onboard computer, they run only as needed. I learned that because the secondary radiator fan on my 81 is wired wrong and it runs constantly. It’s not supposed to. I think you’d be better off having someone familiar with those systems diagnose any issues. Sorry I am unable to be of help.
As usual sir, you performed a thorough, methodical procedure with clear cinematography and detailed overhaul so even a novice can follow along with and replicate. Gracias!
The biggest benefit to your video is that what you may consider to be obsessive, is what teaches me the most. You break all of your videos down to small steps and describe everything beautifully. Thank you for your efforts.
Very kind. I appreciate it. Thank you for watching! 😊👍🏻
Man you are truly a blessing man i been searching high and low for this but God sent you to be today
Thank you for watching! 😊👍🏻
We need more angels like you. Excellent sharing of knowledge
Thank you for watching! 😊👍🏻
Wow I appreciate the time and effort when you can’t find parts, fortunately I can imagine this is around the $25 range on most vehicles IMO not worth the time but when and if you cant find these anymore like an old vette this guy will be a valuable source of info
Thank you! Yes, this is one of those parts that can be easily and cheaply replaced. But a lot of these C3s are in countries where sometimes you can’t just go to the auto parts store to get a cheap replacement, and the only alternative is to try to fix what you have, so sometimes I do little projects just to see if I can. lol 😆 And if it helps one person, it was worth the time and effort.
Thank you for watching! 😊👍🏻
The original switch is of high quality and aftermarket parts can become a headache down the road.
I watched every second. Thank you so much for doing this video! Outstanding Sir! Now I know why my ignition switch got so stiff when the temp drops below freezing. It needs cleaned out and some grease put in there! I will look for the little ball bearings to make sure they're not missing, or out of place.
I hope it solves your issue. Thank you for watching! 😊👍🏻
Thank YOU!! You just saved me. The chin#$* replacement switch...the blue one I bought for a 84 k10 4wd...was total junk. I had to remove 3 coils off the big spring and 1 1/2 coils from the 2 springs that held the cross roller pin. Before I did all this the spring pressure was so great that you could not move the slide al all! I know it won't last long! Trying to find a OEM switch for a non-tilt column...no luck yet.
Glad it was helpful. Thank you for watching! 😊👍🏻
Now I have to do this on my Checker Marathon knowing how it’s done!! Thank you!
Thank you for watching! 😊👍🏻
This video is so good it should be the "Standard". Meaning if you can't make a video like this one... DON'T. Most bad ignition start switches are completely destroyed, burnt, melted or exploded into pieces. I have noted over the years that most GM switches are almost identical and didn't really change much until we got push start buttons. GM added the interlock cable from the trans shifter to prevent starting in gear and I think all were mounted to the top of the column making them a real treat to get to. Even so, a bad switch was rare. More battery cables or terminals than switches. Anyway, thanks for the video.
I appreciate the kind words. Thank you for watching! 😊👍🏻
I disassembled my switch today, inside I found sticky dried grease, decades old dirt and some wear on the contact bars, at least as much shown here.
I used a small wire wheel in the dremel to losen and remove grime from the bars and contact strips along with methyl ethyl keytone solvent to wash all the metal parts in and wipe the inside of the contact shell
For the copper bars, I made sure to swap them around into different positions in attempt to make use of the unworn surfaces. I didn't try reshaping the worn areas of the bars but that could be an option.
Put it all back together, remounted the switch in the same position as original and re-mounted the steering column. The original ignition switch now works as it should and I anticipate my starter will engage every time, this was the failure mode of my ignition switch.
This was a little tedious but worthwhile to me without replacing with an aftermarket switch of unknown quality (ordered one just in case, it has yet to arrive).
Thank you so much! I was having a problem understanding how to assemble the switch to the steering column. I wondered how the linkage worked because I had it rotated 90 degrees.
Glad to hear the video was helpful. Thank you for watching! 😊👍🏻
@@76vette Most switches I have seen are not oriented like this switch; on your steering column your connectors come in from the side but all the other switches I have seen come in from the top; I'm not sure how the rod joins the switch in both of those cases.
Hello C3 Corvette..do you have a video of a GM Dimmer Switch Repair for a 94 chevy c1500..Your video is really relaxing and fun to watch..very passionate and have alot of patience explaining your hard work..very well explained 😀..I aslo like fixing stuff that can be fixable or rebuilt
Thank you for the kind words. Unfortunately, I do not have such a video, but I thank you for watching. 😊👍🏻
Yessir..keep up the good work 👏..I ended up purchasing one through Ebay..Looks like the Dimmer Switch has two Ribits built in 😮
You need to read or tell stories like audio books. I think you have the voice for it and would be very successful.
Most kind. Thank you for watching! 😊👍🏻
really good video! you made it look easy. I have done three of these switches and it took me a while to figure everything out. I did notice something though, the little round flat piece that goes on the bottom of the slider, not positive but I don't think it goes where you put it. I think it goes in the hole right in the middle of the slider. it provides a click or notch feeling when it comes in contact with the hole on the metal piece. Possibly when you turn the key to off, or accessory. Also it seemed to work good when you tried it but it is adjustable. you can loosen the screws and slide it forward or backwards a little. Great Job!!
On second thought I can't really tell. let us know how it worked out. thanks.
Thanks. You may be right about that little round piece, but that spot was the only place where it would fit, at least from what I could tell. And yes, everything appeared to work fine when I tested it and like you said the switch can be adjusted a bit if necessary. 😊👍🏻
Oh, and I recently sold the steering column to a guy fixing a ‘75 Vette. I sold it for $300 which I think was a fair price and gives him a little wiggle room if he wants to buy a new switch. 😊👍🏻
This round rivet-looking pin was inserted from inside the slider on mine, under the two large roller springs and protrudes slightly through the slider. I'm not sure what purpose it serves but that's where it was.
My switch (1984 non-tilt) had two steel roller bars in the place where his switch has the three steel roller balls.
Very satisfied watching this tutorial. Thank you
Glad to hear it was helpful. Thank you for watching! 😊👍🏻
Is the same switch system on my 76 chevy trunk ?
Key Not wanting to turn to the Start position
Have to keep turning and wiggling key till it goes to the start position
Excellent video ....
It could be a bent rod. Thank you for watching! 😊👍🏻
Thanks , hopefully I can be as thorough as you were ....
Bought the 4x4 truck brand New
What were the symptoms of this failing? I have a 1971 Buick Skylark and it starts and runs then shuts itself off like I just turned the key off. The key and the barrel look new and don't feel tight or loose or anything weird, just like a nice new car. They feel great. Sometimes when it dies, it doesn't want to start. I check for spark and nothing but it cranks, sometimes slow like a dead battery but then all of a sudden it will start like it is supposed to. I've ordered one of these and I'm hoping it gets the car going and staying going. Any input would be appreciated.
As you probably know, it’s impossible to properly diagnose a car issue via text, and unless the problem you’re having has been isolated to a starting switch issue, you may end up replacing parts until you stumble on a solution. That can be expensive and time consuming.
At first glance it sounds like an electrical issue and I suggest you get that diagnosed properly.
The switch I rebuilt was corroded and pretty much locked up.
Good luck getting your car sorted out, and thank you for watching. 😊👍🏻
I've had the exact same problem. Turned out to be the module that needed replacement, cheap and easy fix. It is located somewhere in or near the delco if i remember good.
Gracias por compartir me gustó el video y aprendí algo nuevo saludos desde México
Thank you for watching! 😊👍🏻 Greetings from Ocala, Florida. 🌴🚗🇺🇸
Great video 👍
Thank you! 😊👍🏻
Great detail in this video. You show each step in the shot and also describe what you're doing. Did you notice a difference in feel when you turned the key compared to before you did this repair?
Not that I can tell since I reused the original components.
Hi, great video. I have an issue with my 1972 c3. The ignition is stuck in run position and the key can’t be turned back. Do you think this might be this switch? Also do I need take the column out like you have or can you get to it by just dropping it down? Thanks again for the video.
I think you can take the switch off to test it without removing the steering column, just dropping it.
I would definitely remove the driver’s seat though as there’s very little room.
Also, I am unable to diagnose car issues remotely for obvious reasons.
Thanks . Keep up the good work
Very good info.
Thank you for watching! 😊👍🏻
I was looking to install an ignition switch on my Vette and was wondering why it wasnt working after watching your video i realized the mounting bracket is manufactured backwards, so back to the store for a new switch😂👍
Yeah, I heard another comment about that from someone a while back. Not sure why they make some with the bracket installed backwards. I’m sure it’s for another vehicle.
Glad to hear the video was helpful. 😊👍🏻
2 switches are used, one for the standard column the other for the tilt wheel.
I have an electric water pump fuel pump and fans my water pump and fans wont come on when in the on position is it possible that the ignition switch be the cause of the problem
I am not familiar with electric pumps or fans but in some cases, when they are controlled by some sort of onboard computer, they run only as needed. I learned that because the secondary radiator fan on my 81 is wired wrong and it runs constantly. It’s not supposed to.
I think you’d be better off having someone familiar with those systems diagnose any issues. Sorry I am unable to be of help.
@@76vette thanks still for the feedback