No way I could convince 1980s me that I'd one day use a ubiquitous planetary data network to watch insanely high def video of a man extracting a screw. Further, that I'd watch this video in preference to literally millions of hours of other videos on any imaginable topic. And I'd enjoy it. But here we are.
As a man with less moneys than most, I find that anti sneeze has probably saved me a few grand at the very least and that’s with me wearing most of it.
I've found those extractors work the best out of all the ones i've tried. They're nice because they're soft enough to drill out after you break them off.
out of all the tools I own, I feel like the vice grip might be up there in terms of versatility. Pliers, check, soldering a cable and need a third set of hands, check, lightweight hammer, check, torturing a feller, check, crimping tool, check, spanner, check. i even needed to position a light whilst soldering something and vice gripped a vice grip off another vice grip off of a speaker stand and used the magnet on the light on the end of the last vice grip. The list goes on.
I just used one the other day as a stop for a torque angle gauge. Nothing in sight for the arm to rest against, but there was a nice sway bar down there under the harmonic balancer. Got my biggest pair and job done.
@@stevensko9153 Those metal teeth are stronger than the plastic window-crank teeth, so no judgment at all! Thankfully, so far, I've never lost a tool in a car I sold, but losing a few of my tapes - including Van Halen's '1984' - well, that hurt. (My fault really for not going through the car before I traded it.)
Was thinking someone overlooked the chance to include left hand drill bits in that set. Could increase chances of it working and the price at the same time!
I have a set of extractors and left hand drill bits that came together. You drill the small one first, then work your way up, hoping it will grab like it usually does when you drill just a little too small, and try to make it bigger with the next one up. If you get to where the walls are getting thin, use the extractor.
I disagree that Vise Grips don't have a lot of uses. I'm using one right now to keep an HVAC filter housing closed. Been there over a year now - very successful use!
I've used visegrips more times than I care to admit to get myself and many other people home or to a repair shop to pinch off a rusted through brake line and you can't just pinch it off and remove the visegrips, that would be way too easy. It'll still leak, it will slow down the leak, but not stop it. I fold the line over on itself a few times then put the death clamp on the visegrips, zip tie the handle a few times to keep them from popping off, then zip tie the visegrips to a solid part of the vehicle to keep it from bouncing around or falling off. Got lots of pairs from the cheapest place I can find them and always buy a few pairs at a time and big pack of heavy duty zip ties. Welcome to the world of salted roads and old work trucks here in Michigan. I swear the put salt down in the summers too, paid for by the big automotive industry! Quicker your truck disintegrates into iron oxide powder,the quicker you have to buy a new rust maker. Gotta keep that economy moving somehow, these vehicles aren't going to sell themselves.
Ave, I've just always pounded a cut Allen wrench in there. Happened at work this week, 3\32" Allen bolt was stripped, chopped the next size up Allen wrench, 3mm( I think), and pounded it right in. Worked like a charm. Sincerely, An engineer whose glad he was once a machinist
Watching you caress that expensive bit with your love hammer, was like watching Clarkson driving on the cliff edges in Chile. Gimme a charcoal briquet, I'll give ya back a diamond.
When about to attempt something stupid or sketchy I usually tell my wife to get the bag of Kingsford and a roll of floss. One day she'll have a diamond necklace.
Now that's some sage wisdom there. If you got it, you won't need it. If you don't have it you damn sure will need it. Best argument I've heard for buying more tools.
The secret to carbide inserts is to not overtighten the inserts from the get-go. The geometry of the insert keeps it in place so just snugging it up is sufficient. Taking your allen wrench over to the bench grinder and keeping a fresh, sharp end on it also helps a lot cuz once those damn screws start to go, they go hard. Nice removal set tho, havent seen that one but yeah, them Snap On dope peddlers are some sneaky bastards, you walk outta there with a limp and cant figure out why...
Don't overtighten is what I was thinkin' too. They include that flag with the tool so you can't get a bunch of leverage on the screw. I keep a set of Wiha Torx and Torx-Plus on a rack over the bench where I set up my tools. Hard to overtighten them with those screwdriver handles.
Also helps a lot to use anti-seize grease on new screws. People I work with go nuts with the torque, never use grease, use chewed up drivers, and put off replacing the screws until they are almost completely blown out. A few days ago I ended up just drilling out a T15P until the head could be popped off and used pliers to take the rest out.
@@cwtoyota in this situation of one man & one machine, the investment is so minimal that I think I'd just go with a dedicated in-lb torque wrench. Split beam or digital so you never have to worry about never releasing the tension. The flag wrenches are great out of the box but those things have a nasty habit of never disappearing so when you inevitably lose a new one you find an old one, invariably doubt its torque level due to age, then go all 800 pound gorilla with a T-handle which is what gets you in this situation. Or doubt its torque right out of the box like a friend & totally not myself has done 1 or a 100 times before just buying the right tool for the job.
Actually, torque wrench & new drivers & new screws at every machine/tooling station is minimal investment as well. Especially when you realize how much more competitive you can quote stuff when you're not losing gobs of $200/hr setup time dealing with this bullshit. Still remember being in awe of all the tool vending machines at the big H. Fully stocked with every socket head/torx bit required in the assy area. Our engineering badges gave full access to all of the machines & tool crib as well. Didn't happen often but the last thing they wanted was an engineer aimlessly wandering around wasting an hour trying to scrounge up inserts & tooling for a 5 minute job. Wasted time is wasted $$ & it adds up *_quick!_*
The MAC RBRT extractors are at the top of the list for amazing tools. Not had a single bolt they haven't extracted. They even have a threaded sleeve deal that pushes the bolt back off once removed. Literally the only MAC tool I own
@@papaya4432 it's meant to be less likely to strip allowing more force but I suspect the real reason is so the company with the patent can make a killing off of it
@@papaya4432 Manufacturers can only patent a drive for so long, when the patent runs out you have to invent a new one if you want to keep making monies from licensing...
I haven't used a set of extractors since I found I can do the same with regular torques bits. Drill the hole a bit wider, and hammer in a torques the size just bigger than the hole, using a 1/4" extension to hold it steady. The bits are harder than the screws especially after they were heated up from the drill, and you can pound the torques it in just like the extractors, then use any wrench with a 1/4" drive socket to screw it out. Same thing without a fancy expensive kit.
I bought a nice OTC slide hammer set at the drag race swap meet. It came with a special little hitter that replaces the adjustment screw on vice-grips with a deal that allows the slide hammer to screw on. Let’s you slide hammer anything. Couldn’t live without it.
I've always found if your bit is stuck on a bolt or screw or whatever, just drop it on the concrete. The stripped screw will go into hibernation and your tool bit will sometimes break. Win win.
I've never tried that style. They look a lot better than the tapered ones that I like to call bolt expanders. When they come out with a power fister set I will be first in line to buy one and first in line to return them, with an additional piece in the kit.
@@causeimbatmaaan Can't be much worse than the ones I have, and they won't expand the bolt in the hole. Seems like they are worth a shot. There are always limits to a tool, some bolts just ain't extractable by twisting alone.
@@denisohbrien I am too cheap to be a snap-on fanboy, but I do like the few tools from them that I do have. The two big ones were free, or earned depending on how you look at it. Got top marks in my final year at trade school (out of all the sessions in the year) and was rewarded with something like a $900 gift card to the snap-on store on campus. Picked up a 725 air gun and a nice 3/8 digital flex head torque wrench, there was some little stuff to make up the rest of the money. The torque wrench is the handiest thing, and I have never had any trouble with my airgun other than the anvil brake lasted about a day. The worn out hog ring and no brake with a swivel socket makes for some interesting moments.
The tapered ones work just fine, as long as you buy quality ones, and you dont overtorque them. They are the primary extraction tool I used for over 20 years in the military.
If the inserts aren't needed and you can't get the set screw out, you can try shattering the insert with a hammer without damaging the pocket. That way you can get a pair of pliers or vise grips onto the head of the screw.
Ya beat me to it. Saved many a cutter and busted a few knuckels smacken the backside of the cabide with a hammer to shatter the corkstuffer. The screws will dang near fall out once the pressure is off.
I remember my dad telling me a story about going in to fast and too hard and pretty soon before you know it no matter how hard you try you can never pull it out. That must have been what he was talking about.
We had a set of those exact same stud extractors in the garage where I worked, IMHO they are the best, especially for getting out broken exhaust studs (which we did a LOT of ), the trick with exhaust studs is to drill right through the bottom of the stud, then they come out really easily, just make sure you don't drill right through into the water jacket, which one of our mechanics did!.
I recently inherited this very extractor kit of what honestly looks to be the exact same age. Wild you happened to put this up. At first I thought the drill bushings were to quickly size the right matching drill bit
I use the cheap sets, as they are cheap, and if you bust them you simply toss in the steel recycle bin, and grab another set. Hex drive ones work well using the torx into allen socket screws, as you want it out, and then replace it.
@@SeanBZA I use Snap On, because they work, and (so far) none have needed to be serviced or repaired. (I just know they will be, for free, if they ever need to be ;) )
@@bobbygetsbanned6049 yeah, because I'm removing it, and it's not barely tight. I'll drill a hole in it & hammer a torx bit into that hole, because it's stuck! I don't do that to put things together! Well…I have, but only a couple times, & not at work.
I like watching your videos. The common sense you use is miles ahead of young people, i mean people under 55. Keep up the great job! -- Gulf War Vet 90-91.
FYI Left handed drill bits for opening the aperture and sometimes the jeezliss forster will evacuate from sheer fear of avoiding future violations of its freshly reamed aperture. Keep your dikinavice.
I found a little dab of copper anti-squeeze on insert screws (threads and head) stops them locking up on you. I never had a problem after doing this. They don't need to be gorilla tight in the first place either which is why the supplied wrench is so tiny.
Snap-off has never earned their name more than with those extractors I can count on just one hand the number of times those extractors actually extracted anything instead of becoming a future "extractee"
feel that operator error, most extractors are made of brittle tool steel, so they snap. the extractors in this video are made of rather a ductile material, so if you brake em, thats cause they already look like a helter skelter youve over torqued them to the moon and back. you get plenty of warning and that why I love them.
Best thing I've found for rounded torx or allen bolts are the Mac RBRT sockets. Great to use on perfectly good, over tightened fastners to prevent stripping out too!
The worst one I had was a snapped bolt on a Mazda V6 water pump housing. There wasn't enough room between the side of the engine bay and the engine to get a drill in there, so we spent a week trying everything else, only to admit defeat and drop the engine just to get the bolt out. Thankfully we only had to drop it a few CM to clear the bottom of the frame, so it wasn't too bad.
I have had that same exact set of extractors for about 35 years. I have used it successfully once. Alright my memory isn't what it used to be... maybe twice.
Sounds like the Mrs. got the "massager" off the healing bench. I'm impressed with the tenacity of the ruckus, but that is a distant second to, THE HEALING BENCH WORKS!
I have to deal with this in my shop from guys over tightening and not using anti-seize. I’ve had the best of luck just using a drill bit that’s slightly bigger than the major of the tread diameter and drill down the bolt head. The head of the bolt will pop right of when drilling and then the carbide insert comes off. The remaining bolt shaft then easily unscrews.
Nothing beats heat to extract stuck and stripped fasteners. The most concentrated heat available to most is the GTAW arc. Use it to braze a throw away TORX bit into the stripped fastener with a tiny bit of silver solder.
That screw extractor set you showed right at the start, brother, they are hands down the best ive ver used.... the cheaper kits snap in the fastener, in yonder kit shit bends it DOESNT SNAP and bou howdy is that important.
in my shop i always end up using robertson/square head driver bits. fit the square peg to the appropriatly sized round hole with a little extra tappy tap. like what some guys do with torx, but you might actually need those. haha
I highly recommend Rocket Sockets. Got a rusted off bolt out of the sub frame of a Michigan rust belt vehicle with one when no other tool would do it. Also, made in the good ol' US of A.
You just gave me a flashback of trying to get a screw out of my triton v10 that holds sparkplug boot in place... Vice grips, extractors, welding several times.. Nothing. Finally had enough and just drilled everything out and tapped new threads for a different screw. All cus I was in a hurry and screwed it in at an angle 😖
In a pinch, a case-hardened 'cut nail' works great as a screw extractor. If the pokey end of the nail is too small, take it to the grinder and knock off a few millipeters until the tip almost doesn't fit into your drilled hole. The taper makes it bite and hold. Tap it in, put a Saskatchewan Socket Ranch on the flats and give it a anticockwise rotation. Bob and Doug's yer uncles!
I used a rounded nut extractor socket on what was left of a bolt that the head snapped off. It was amazing, and worked so well. Everyone needs a set of those
We usually just get the next bigger torx or torxplus bit, hammer it in there and then you`ve basically got yourself a new screw. But since we`ve got dedicated torque wrenches for each bitsize, that was a rare ocasion. Really worth it.
Nothing wrong with vice grips, When my gear lever stripped the spines on my motorbike. I used a vice grip as a changer for 6 months. It earned me the nick name Mole Grip. 😂😂
Anytime this happens on site I would just stick a good Phillips bit in it maybe giver a few whacks and slow and steady the impact with all my body weight into it. Sometimes the right tool for the job is the wrong tool
In my experience the threaded holes in facemill bodies are through holes, so when you strip a screw out you can sometimes remove the screw by smashing into it's backdoor with a regular old right hand twist drill. if she's really fuckered you can break the insert apart with a hammer and punch and spin it out with vise grips.
How to deal with a stuck fastner? Walk away from it. Have a coffee break. Have a smoke break. Come back, look at the fastner in question. "Yep, she's still stuck." Walk away again. Stare off into space. Another smoke break. Come back, smack it with a hammer a few times. "Yup that thing is stuck, man!" Contemplate all of my lifes decisions up to this point.
You should check out the not so free candy that Mac tools offers. More specifically the RBRT Allen socket variety. They’ve gotten me out of a hairy situation or two. Beer tokens I think very well spent on my end
As a guy who doesn't use many tools, I come here mostly for the colorful vernacular. Case in point, 'Swedish thumb-detecting nut fucker'. Thank you for that one, Professor.
I dont know if Im alone on this, but as a life long heavy machinery mechanic, I swear it feels better unscrewing things than screwing that redhead at the corner of the bar. mostly because the redhead is too easy. ya just buy her a beer. ever tried to buy a sheared off 3/8-16 bolt a beer?
One time I had to rework a bunch of 3D scanners that had camera mounts made from invar that were held in place with bolts that were absolutely drenched in red loctite. Invar is expensive stuff so they wanted to reuse as much of it as they could, but removing those old bolts was a nightmare. After accounting for all the shop time and snapped bits, I think they maybe broke even, lol.
The nice thing about this style extractor is you can work the bolt back and forth if the threads are galled up. Also using two wrenches like a t handle prevents the extractor from loosening in the bolt.
Strap On has fought hard and long to earn that name but every now and again they put something out that is worth the doll hairs they’re charging for it. That’s one of em.
The prequel; "Where's the T25?" "D'f-if-iknow-bud, try the folding Allen keys, one'll fit." "Torque wrench?" "Half a turn past hand tight" "Cheers bud".
I was able to use Alum powder (from grocery store) and hot water to dissolve a broken bolt and broken extractor that was stuck into my aluminum motor block. Worked amazing, after a dozen dulled drill bits and little progress that mixture dissolved the all of the steel from the aluminum overnight.
Kit called quick centers are amazing. Center ya up on shoulders, studs, below the deck all things threaded. Cause what looks like the center of a bolt aint.
Machinist here. Another trick is use carbides brittle nature and smack it with a persuader until fractured thus releasing tension from the spring stuck on a shaft.
I havejust about every single type of extractor from doing exhaust for years including that one from the rape wagon. The splines break nearly every time I use it or twist and the nut gets stuck the drill bits with it are junk. The centering cones are the only good part in that kit
As a Machinist with some years under my belt. I can confirm this insert screws are the bane of existence. Easiest way to get it out, sacrifice the insert and break it with a hammer then just finger screw it out or use pliers. Just a thought.
No way I could convince 1980s me that I'd one day use a ubiquitous planetary data network to watch insanely high def video of a man extracting a screw. Further, that I'd watch this video in preference to literally millions of hours of other videos on any imaginable topic. And I'd enjoy it. But here we are.
For real! 😂
Same
Here we are...
So say we all
Hell, I'm using a version of that network that has a cloud of satellites in earth orbit TV o do the same.
Sounds like the Hitachi Magic Wand in the background was givin'er the business.
As a man with less moneys than most, I find that anti sneeze has probably saved me a few grand at the very least and that’s with me wearing most of it.
2:10 I was really hoping for a part 2: Extracting the extractor
I've found those extractors work the best out of all the ones i've tried. They're nice because they're soft enough to drill out after you break them off.
out of all the tools I own, I feel like the vice grip might be up there in terms of versatility. Pliers, check, soldering a cable and need a third set of hands, check, lightweight hammer, check, torturing a feller, check, crimping tool, check, spanner, check. i even needed to position a light whilst soldering something and vice gripped a vice grip off another vice grip off of a speaker stand and used the magnet on the light on the end of the last vice grip. The list goes on.
I can only guess what tool you use on your dinner table
I just used one the other day as a stop for a torque angle gauge. Nothing in sight for the arm to rest against, but there was a nice sway bar down there under the harmonic balancer. Got my biggest pair and job done.
Losted the nut on a u bolt . For my trunk rear suspension. Just added tape to stop the vise grip from opening.
@@stevensko9153 Those metal teeth are stronger than the plastic window-crank teeth, so no judgment at all! Thankfully, so far, I've never lost a tool in a car I sold, but losing a few of my tapes - including Van Halen's '1984' - well, that hurt. (My fault really for not going through the car before I traded it.)
Don’t forget ‘replacement steering wheel’. Clamps right onto the column splines for that stylish tiller look ;-)
I love my set of left twist drill bits, most of the time drilling out the fastener with a lefty-bit is all I need to get it out.
The secondary heater does wonders. 🤬
Was thinking someone overlooked the chance to include left hand drill bits in that set. Could increase chances of it working and the price at the same time!
I have a set of extractors and left hand drill bits that came together. You drill the small one first, then work your way up, hoping it will grab like it usually does when you drill just a little too small, and try to make it bigger with the next one up. If you get to where the walls are getting thin, use the extractor.
This is the way. Buy a set and keep it with your extractor bits. Either way, you'll still get a hole.
I've done 2 this week with left hand drill bits
I disagree that Vise Grips don't have a lot of uses. I'm using one right now to keep an HVAC filter housing closed. Been there over a year now - very successful use!
My longest recorded use of a pair was holding the adjustment on an old dodge's mirror. They had to have been on there for at least 5 years.
I've used visegrips more times than I care to admit to get myself and many other people home or to a repair shop to pinch off a rusted through brake line and you can't just pinch it off and remove the visegrips, that would be way too easy. It'll still leak, it will slow down the leak, but not stop it. I fold the line over on itself a few times then put the death clamp on the visegrips, zip tie the handle a few times to keep them from popping off, then zip tie the visegrips to a solid part of the vehicle to keep it from bouncing around or falling off. Got lots of pairs from the cheapest place I can find them and always buy a few pairs at a time and big pack of heavy duty zip ties. Welcome to the world of salted roads and old work trucks here in Michigan. I swear the put salt down in the summers too, paid for by the big automotive industry! Quicker your truck disintegrates into iron oxide powder,the quicker you have to buy a new rust maker. Gotta keep that economy moving somehow, these vehicles aren't going to sell themselves.
no hydraulic valve is complete without the vise grips selector handle
Mine replace the mower deck height adjustment knob.
Vise Grips are good for when you tried doing it the right way and it just wouldn't listen, so the long hard way it had to be.
Ave,
I've just always pounded a cut Allen wrench in there. Happened at work this week, 3\32" Allen bolt was stripped, chopped the next size up Allen wrench, 3mm( I think), and pounded it right in. Worked like a charm.
Sincerely,
An engineer whose glad he was once a machinist
Watching you caress that expensive bit with your love hammer, was like watching Clarkson driving on the cliff edges in Chile. Gimme a charcoal briquet, I'll give ya back a diamond.
When about to attempt something stupid or sketchy I usually tell my wife to get the bag of Kingsford and a roll of floss. One day she'll have a diamond necklace.
Jeremy Clarkson references always get a thumbs up.
Now that's some sage wisdom there. If you got it, you won't need it. If you don't have it you damn sure will need it. Best argument I've heard for buying more tools.
The secret to carbide inserts is to not overtighten the inserts from the get-go. The geometry of the insert keeps it in place so just snugging it up is sufficient. Taking your allen wrench over to the bench grinder and keeping a fresh, sharp end on it also helps a lot cuz once those damn screws start to go, they go hard. Nice removal set tho, havent seen that one but yeah, them Snap On dope peddlers are some sneaky bastards, you walk outta there with a limp and cant figure out why...
Don't overtighten is what I was thinkin' too. They include that flag with the tool so you can't get a bunch of leverage on the screw.
I keep a set of Wiha Torx and Torx-Plus on a rack over the bench where I set up my tools. Hard to overtighten them with those screwdriver handles.
Also helps a lot to use anti-seize grease on new screws. People I work with go nuts with the torque, never use grease, use chewed up drivers, and put off replacing the screws until they are almost completely blown out. A few days ago I ended up just drilling out a T15P until the head could be popped off and used pliers to take the rest out.
@@cwtoyota in this situation of one man & one machine, the investment is so minimal that I think I'd just go with a dedicated in-lb torque wrench. Split beam or digital so you never have to worry about never releasing the tension.
The flag wrenches are great out of the box but those things have a nasty habit of never disappearing so when you inevitably lose a new one you find an old one, invariably doubt its torque level due to age, then go all 800 pound gorilla with a T-handle which is what gets you in this situation.
Or doubt its torque right out of the box like a friend & totally not myself has done 1 or a 100 times before just buying the right tool for the job.
Actually, torque wrench & new drivers & new screws at every machine/tooling station is minimal investment as well.
Especially when you realize how much more competitive you can quote stuff when you're not losing gobs of $200/hr setup time dealing with this bullshit.
Still remember being in awe of all the tool vending machines at the big H. Fully stocked with every socket head/torx bit required in the assy area. Our engineering badges gave full access to all of the machines & tool crib as well. Didn't happen often but the last thing they wanted was an engineer aimlessly wandering around wasting an hour trying to scrounge up inserts & tooling for a 5 minute job.
Wasted time is wasted $$ & it adds up *_quick!_*
Sandvik sells torque specific screwdrivers for all their different insert screw sizes, wiha makes them for sandvik.
Perfectly said”sometimes you get lucky “ I’ve had the same set for 20 years and have never had them work.
The MAC RBRT extractors are at the top of the list for amazing tools. Not had a single bolt they haven't extracted. They even have a threaded sleeve deal that pushes the bolt back off once removed. Literally the only MAC tool I own
I found out the hard way, there is TORX, and TORX+ they have different profiles and one will fucker the other, even though they appear to fit!!!
Sounds like they're TRYING to make a problem with that!
Ran into the exact same thing
Hot damn. I’ve never heard of torx+ till now. Why does that even exist?
@@papaya4432 it's meant to be less likely to strip allowing more force but I suspect the real reason is so the company with the patent can make a killing off of it
@@papaya4432 Manufacturers can only patent a drive for so long, when the patent runs out you have to invent a new one if you want to keep making monies from licensing...
Thank goodness you are here to shift focus from the news(blues) cycle.
You're a rough ol gem
Nah, First good news in a long time today.
LH reverse fluted drill bits are also amazing as they can just catch enough material while drilling to send that bolt right out the hole.
Dear uncle bumble, thanks for teaching us all the mechanical lessons that Carl left out of Slingblade……
It ain't got no gas in it. Mmmhmm
I haven't used a set of extractors since I found I can do the same with regular torques bits. Drill the hole a bit wider, and hammer in a torques the size just bigger than the hole, using a 1/4" extension to hold it steady. The bits are harder than the screws especially after they were heated up from the drill, and you can pound the torques it in just like the extractors, then use any wrench with a 1/4" drive socket to screw it out. Same thing without a fancy expensive kit.
I bought a nice OTC slide hammer set at the drag race swap meet. It came with a special little hitter that replaces the adjustment screw on vice-grips with a deal that allows the slide hammer to screw on.
Let’s you slide hammer anything.
Couldn’t live without it.
These sets have definitely saved my arse once or twice
Sometimes getting lucky is the best feeling ever!!
Those are the best extractors I've seen yet.
I've always found if your bit is stuck on a bolt or screw or whatever, just drop it on the concrete. The stripped screw will go into hibernation and your tool bit will sometimes break. Win win.
Don't want to be first, too much pressure....
I've never tried that style. They look a lot better than the tapered ones that I like to call bolt expanders. When they come out with a power fister set I will be first in line to buy one and first in line to return them, with an additional piece in the kit.
try em, youll be impressed. ima snapon fanboy, but id recommend that extractor set to even the tightest of wallets. itll save you.
Buncha turds
@@causeimbatmaaan Can't be much worse than the ones I have, and they won't expand the bolt in the hole. Seems like they are worth a shot. There are always limits to a tool, some bolts just ain't extractable by twisting alone.
@@denisohbrien I am too cheap to be a snap-on fanboy, but I do like the few tools from them that I do have. The two big ones were free, or earned depending on how you look at it. Got top marks in my final year at trade school (out of all the sessions in the year) and was rewarded with something like a $900 gift card to the snap-on store on campus. Picked up a 725 air gun and a nice 3/8 digital flex head torque wrench, there was some little stuff to make up the rest of the money. The torque wrench is the handiest thing, and I have never had any trouble with my airgun other than the anvil brake lasted about a day.
The worn out hog ring and no brake with a swivel socket makes for some interesting moments.
The tapered ones work just fine, as long as you buy quality ones, and you dont overtorque them. They are the primary extraction tool I used for over 20 years in the military.
Carbide insert tooling use a special version of torx, regular torx will fit but they will slowly strip.
wait what
Well today I learned that Torx Plus is a thing.
Extracting a screw is like a backwoods family reunion... sometimes you get lucky.
First time I ever saw those things work. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
"Pound it til ya get to the bottom". Reminds me of my wedding night.
If the inserts aren't needed and you can't get the set screw out, you can try shattering the insert with a hammer without damaging the pocket. That way you can get a pair of pliers or vise grips onto the head of the screw.
or drill it from the back or clock up a good pocket an the move a 90 dears in a 4th axis
Maybe with a spring punch or an engraver?
@@alblue99ftw screws are expensive though
I was just going to say crush the insert. Beat me to it.
Ya beat me to it. Saved many a cutter and busted a few knuckels smacken the backside of the cabide with a hammer to shatter the corkstuffer. The screws will dang near fall out once the pressure is off.
Best extractors ever. I wouldn't even waste my time with other style extractors.
I remember my dad telling me a story about going in to fast and too hard and pretty soon before you know it no matter how hard you try you can never pull it out. That must have been what he was talking about.
We had a set of those exact same stud extractors in the garage where I worked, IMHO they are the best, especially for getting out broken exhaust studs (which we did a LOT of ), the trick with exhaust studs is to drill right through the bottom of the stud, then they come out really easily, just make sure you don't drill right through into the water jacket, which one of our mechanics did!.
ABOUT TIME! I tell everyone and nobody has confirmed the swedish hand lathe. Thank you. I was starting to think I was gas lit. Whew.
That had exactly no business working. Nice job.
I recently inherited this very extractor kit of what honestly looks to be the exact same age.
Wild you happened to put this up. At first I thought the drill bushings were to quickly size the right matching drill bit
I like to use 3/8" drive torx bits & an impact wrench.
The torx bits will get rounded, eventually, but they have a lifetime warranty.
I use the cheap sets, as they are cheap, and if you bust them you simply toss in the steel recycle bin, and grab another set. Hex drive ones work well using the torx into allen socket screws, as you want it out, and then replace it.
@@SeanBZA I use Snap On, because they work, and (so far) none have needed to be serviced or repaired.
(I just know they will be, for free, if they ever need to be ;) )
Wait, you use a 3/8" impact on insets screws that barely need to be tightened at all??
@@bobbygetsbanned6049 yeah, because I'm removing it, and it's not barely tight. I'll drill a hole in it & hammer a torx bit into that hole, because it's stuck!
I don't do that to put things together!
Well…I have, but only a couple times, & not at work.
I like watching your videos. The common sense you use is miles ahead of young people, i mean people under 55. Keep up the great job! -- Gulf War Vet 90-91.
Been too long since Ive used my long rigid extractor. Good to see someone getting screws.
I always use valve grinding compound on the tip of the torx bit. Haven't stripped one in years
If you ever owned a 90s Ford you'd know to keep several pairs of vice grips as eventually they'll be holding up the windows in every door.
FYI
Left handed drill bits for opening the aperture and sometimes the jeezliss forster will evacuate from sheer fear of avoiding future violations of its freshly reamed aperture.
Keep your dikinavice.
I found a little dab of copper anti-squeeze on insert screws (threads and head) stops them locking up on you. I never had a problem after doing this. They don't need to be gorilla tight in the first place either which is why the supplied wrench is so tiny.
Love it when you don’t get screwed. Wait…
Snap-off has never earned their name more than with those extractors
I can count on just one hand the number of times those extractors actually extracted anything instead of becoming a future "extractee"
Course, that could just be my luck shining through
Sounds like it aint all it's "cracked" up to be.
feel that operator error, most extractors are made of brittle tool steel, so they snap. the extractors in this video are made of rather a ductile material, so if you brake em, thats cause they already look like a helter skelter youve over torqued them to the moon and back. you get plenty of warning and that why I love them.
to add I can count on one hand, barely, the amount of fasteners this kit HASNT saved when used correctly. it is superb.
@@denisohbrien yep I've got this set and you'll put a nice obvious spiral in it before it breaks
Best thing I've found for rounded torx or allen bolts are the Mac RBRT sockets. Great to use on perfectly good, over tightened fastners to prevent stripping out too!
I like Vice Grips--especially the metric ones
Damn right; it’s better to be looking at extractors than looking for them.
The worst one I had was a snapped bolt on a Mazda V6 water pump housing. There wasn't enough room between the side of the engine bay and the engine to get a drill in there, so we spent a week trying everything else, only to admit defeat and drop the engine just to get the bolt out. Thankfully we only had to drop it a few CM to clear the bottom of the frame, so it wasn't too bad.
Wow I have that same set. I must have bought it late 70's early 80's.
I have had that same exact set of extractors for about 35 years. I have used it successfully once. Alright my memory isn't what it used to be... maybe twice.
Sounds like the Mrs. got the "massager" off the healing bench. I'm impressed with the tenacity of the ruckus, but that is a distant second to, THE HEALING BENCH WORKS!
I have to deal with this in my shop from guys over tightening and not using anti-seize. I’ve had the best of luck just using a drill bit that’s slightly bigger than the major of the tread diameter and drill down the bolt head. The head of the bolt will pop right of when drilling and then the carbide insert comes off. The remaining bolt shaft then easily unscrews.
Exactly
Nothing beats heat to extract stuck and stripped fasteners. The most concentrated heat available to most is the GTAW arc. Use it to braze a throw away TORX bit into the stripped fastener with a tiny bit of silver solder.
I have these and they work like butter!
That screw extractor set you showed right at the start, brother, they are hands down the best ive ver used.... the cheaper kits snap in the fastener, in yonder kit shit bends it DOESNT SNAP and bou howdy is that important.
"Sometimes you get lucky!" That's what she said 👍😎
in my shop i always end up using robertson/square head driver bits. fit the square peg to the appropriatly sized round hole with a little extra tappy tap. like what some guys do with torx, but you might actually need those. haha
I highly recommend Rocket Sockets. Got a rusted off bolt out of the sub frame of a Michigan rust belt vehicle with one when no other tool would do it. Also, made in the good ol' US of A.
That's the most skilful thing I've seen you do... smack that extractor out one handed.
Fair play to you Sir
You just gave me a flashback of trying to get a screw out of my triton v10 that holds sparkplug boot in place... Vice grips, extractors, welding several times.. Nothing. Finally had enough and just drilled everything out and tapped new threads for a different screw. All cus I was in a hurry and screwed it in at an angle 😖
In a pinch, a case-hardened 'cut nail' works great as a screw extractor. If the pokey end of the nail is too small, take it to the grinder and knock off a few millipeters until the tip almost doesn't fit into your drilled hole. The taper makes it bite and hold. Tap it in, put a Saskatchewan Socket Ranch on the flats and give it a anticockwise rotation. Bob and Doug's yer uncles!
It's always fun giving an apprentice (even funny with a journeyman) a left handed drill bit
I’ve had that same set for 12 years and so far it has worked maybe 4 times.
Never had much luck with extractors. Left hand drill bits are my go to.
I used a rounded nut extractor socket on what was left of a bolt that the head snapped off. It was amazing, and worked so well. Everyone needs a set of those
We usually just get the next bigger torx or torxplus bit, hammer it in there and then you`ve basically got yourself a new screw. But since we`ve got dedicated torque wrenches for each bitsize, that was a rare ocasion. Really worth it.
Nothing wrong with vice grips, When my gear lever stripped the spines on my motorbike. I used a vice grip as a changer for 6 months. It earned me the nick name Mole Grip. 😂😂
Just a thought. Weld a nut on the adjustment knob on the Vice grips. Then you can screw in a slide hammer. Works like a hot dam
We're all the same. Every EZ-out needs a "Saskatchewan Socket Set" to get 'er free
Anytime this happens on site I would just stick a good Phillips bit in it maybe giver a few whacks and slow and steady the impact with all my body weight into it. Sometimes the right tool for the job is the wrong tool
In my experience the threaded holes in facemill bodies are through holes, so when you strip a screw out you can sometimes remove the screw by smashing into it's backdoor with a regular old right hand twist drill. if she's really fuckered you can break the insert apart with a hammer and punch and spin it out with vise grips.
How to deal with a stuck fastner?
Walk away from it.
Have a coffee break.
Have a smoke break.
Come back, look at the fastner in question.
"Yep, she's still stuck."
Walk away again.
Stare off into space.
Another smoke break.
Come back, smack it with a hammer a few times.
"Yup that thing is stuck, man!"
Contemplate all of my lifes decisions up to this point.
You should check out the not so free candy that Mac tools offers. More specifically the RBRT Allen socket variety. They’ve gotten me out of a hairy situation or two. Beer tokens I think very well spent on my end
Stripper pull out is a skill I never mastered.
Just amazing. Each better than the last
As a guy who doesn't use many tools, I come here mostly for the colorful vernacular. Case in point, 'Swedish thumb-detecting nut fucker'. Thank you for that one, Professor.
That's the first time that I've ever seen an extractor work.
I dont know if Im alone on this, but as a life long heavy machinery mechanic, I swear it feels better unscrewing things than screwing that redhead at the corner of the bar. mostly because the redhead is too easy. ya just buy her a beer. ever tried to buy a sheared off 3/8-16 bolt a beer?
One time I had to rework a bunch of 3D scanners that had camera mounts made from invar that were held in place with bolts that were absolutely drenched in red loctite. Invar is expensive stuff so they wanted to reuse as much of it as they could, but removing those old bolts was a nightmare. After accounting for all the shop time and snapped bits, I think they maybe broke even, lol.
Sock-it-out brand extractors work amazingly well for stripped allen heads. Sometimes I get lucky with just a left hand drill bit too.
The nice thing about this style extractor is you can work the bolt back and forth if the threads are galled up. Also using two wrenches like a t handle prevents the extractor from loosening in the bolt.
specific to carbide inserts, just hit the insert with a hammer and it will fracture apart, then you can usually get it with just fingers.
Strap On has fought hard and long to earn that name but every now and again they put something out that is worth the doll hairs they’re charging for it. That’s one of em.
Torx bits hammered in to the shoulder has worked out well for me.
The prequel;
"Where's the T25?"
"D'f-if-iknow-bud, try the folding Allen keys, one'll fit."
"Torque wrench?"
"Half a turn past hand tight"
"Cheers bud".
When all else fails, the sharp chisel and 2lb hammer never does fail.
Good work. I always give it a try before drilling cuz many times the extractor I choose will fit without drilling.
The long extractors look great in the kit
Great video
I was able to use Alum powder (from grocery store) and hot water to dissolve a broken bolt and broken extractor that was stuck into my aluminum motor block. Worked amazing, after a dozen dulled drill bits and little progress that mixture dissolved the all of the steel from the aluminum overnight.
I bought a set of chinesium extractors. About 300 pieces for $20. So far I've broken about half of them but eventually they got that one bolt out.
Kit called quick centers are amazing. Center ya up on shoulders, studs, below the deck all things threaded. Cause what looks like the center of a bolt aint.
Found out the hard way those insert screws are a special kind of torx
Machinist here. Another trick is use carbides brittle nature and smack it with a persuader until fractured thus releasing tension from the spring stuck on a shaft.
The background noise reminding me of watching an episode of Red Green. Which had the occasional sound of a chainsaw in the background.
I havejust about every single type of extractor from doing exhaust for years including that one from the rape wagon. The splines break nearly every time I use it or twist and the nut gets stuck the drill bits with it are junk. The centering cones are the only good part in that kit
I gave up on all extraction methods other than the mig gun for exhaust work.
“Sometimes you get lucky” I feel like that applies to all specialty tools lmao
We need a list of your favorite books we need to read!!!
As a Machinist with some years under my belt. I can confirm this insert screws are the bane of existence. Easiest way to get it out, sacrifice the insert and break it with a hammer then just finger screw it out or use pliers. Just a thought.