How I Replace My Leaf Spring Hangers and Shackles on My 04 Ford Ranger
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video I share a few things that I learned in the process of replacing my leaf spring hangers and shackles on my 04 Ford Ranger 3.0L. Its very common for leaf spring hangers and shackles to rust out on ford rangers, especially if the vehicle is driven in the north where salt is used on the roads in the winter time.
Note: this video, while it does describe in some detail how to do this job, does not contain all the information you may need to do this job properly and safely. As always, read the instructions provided by any part you may purchase for your vehicle. Also, It is essential to use an appropriate repair manual. Always torque your nuts and bolts down to specification. I did not share torque specifications in this video. You will need a manual for that information.
Also, though I mentioned that the vehicle will need to be lifted and supported in the rear I did not go into detail on how to do this safely and properly. You will need to get that information elsewhere. Unfortunately, I do not have a video on that.
DISCLAIMER
Barbour's Auto Help is not responsible for any damage or personal injury incurred in the process of performing any auto repairs done by you the viewer. Automotive repair is extremely dangerous. Repair your vehicle at your own risk. It is the viewers responsibility to verify all information and procedures as outlined in YOUR REPAIR MANUAL AND OWNERS MANUAL FOR YOUR VEHICLE. Owning and using a repair manual suited for your vehicle is essential for correctly and safely performing ANY repair to your vehicle. Always wear safety glasses and heed all instructions for use applicable to any piece of equipment you may use. Due to circumstances out of the control of Barbours Auto Help, Barbours Auto Help makes no guaranty that by the use of the information given in this video a quality repair will be made. Barbour'sAutoHelp makes no guaranty that the information provided is totally complete, syncronized and accurate. Verify everything using an appropriate repair manual.
Repair your vehicle at your own risk! Barbour's auto help does not guaranty a proper repair using these techniques.
One can drill the bushing rubber out. It takes longer, and is more labor, than a torch, but NO FIRE danger, or heat damage to the spring.
This was great in helping me to figure out the approach to replacing the shackles (both of the them). Perfect level of details for me. And I appreciate the warnings about capping off the gas fume sources. I plan to do this coming up this weekend already.
How’d it go? My spring broke straight thru the bed
Thks. I had same issues. Did it on my back without bed removal. You're so right with stressing safety. I also had to burn out the old lower bushing. And dealt with horrible metal scales falling at the eyes. Fella's take the safety concerns to heart. If you go underneath, check your jack stands. And if you light the touch, be careful of the gasoline. If you're rotted in the back. Chances are that you got rot around the tank as well. Thks again
Your a god send sir.
You’ve helped me plan my project to extend the life of my trusty, yet rusty truck
DITTO on what Joe said! Well spoken, lots of detail and precise!
AWESOME video!
This is a glowing perfect example of how to properly film/shoot, narrate, edit, score (or NOT score) How-To TH-cam videos.
I’m guessing he or someone helping has extensive production experience. Dude is a pro either way & regardless… This video helped me big time & I’m totally quick, proper, efficient helpful ways
Thank you. I'm glad the video helped.
Very good info...
I just did my 2001 Mazda truck with a used frame rail on the left side and new right rear spring shackle also. The frame rail was from a RANGER and it was a little different and we had to pie cut it behind the rear wheel to lift it up to level the bumper. Frame was a little shorter and in time I have to cut the bumper bracket and put a piece in to make that fit right.
Great video answered everything i was still concerned about .
Glad I could help
Thanks for this great video brother
God bless you all
Excellent Video ... lots of detail, well spoken and precise ... Thank Guy big help here.
Thank you.
Thank you very much. I'm working on my 2001 ranger. Take the bed off, everyone, and work from the top. SO much easier. Also, replace the shocks right away. It's cheap and you have everything exposed.
I'm not going to labor on pulling the old bushings out. The truck will be done in 5yrs. What are the consequences of not replacing the bushing?
Awesome video. Very informative..
Thanks
great video. Thank you!
Hey thanks!
Thanks dude
No problem
Wow! You are really good at making videos. Very well edited; and great helpful text overlays. This was exactly what I was looking for. The shackles on the front part of my leaf springs are almost gone. After watching your video, I think I could do this. Again, I'm very impressed by your video.
I am surprised the whole frame doesn't fall down so that the wheel well would be resting on the tires. Not sure what keeps this from happening when these shackles are rusted thru.
About how much did the new shackles & hardware cost you?
Hey thanks for the compliment! I can't remember exactly but I want to say $25 a side...maybe.
@@BarboursAutoHelp: This link looks like a full set (maybe missing the "bushing bolt" for the front holder ??). A reasonable price (~$200).
https: // www. 1aauto. com /ford-ranger-leaf-spring-shackle-and-bracket-repair-kit-diy-solutions/i/1abmk00107/694234/1997
Again, thx for your great video. You're really good at editing; love the helpful overlays! And, you explain things really well.
Also, thanks for the tip about the "rust neutralizer". I didn't know stuff like that existed. ... Take care, Joe.
Id look at a few places. If the prices are close to each other then I'd say its good.
Great vid! I am currently working on replacing the leaf springs on my 2003 ranger xlt, but all of the bolts are unusable, thus I need to buy new ones. I am having trouble tracking them down. I need the leaf spring to shackle bolt for both ends and I need the bolt that connects the shackle to shackle mount. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
Rockauto.com is where I got my parts from. I'm sure they have something for you. Take a look.
I am about to do this beginning today on my '10. What is the Torx size for the bed bolts? I only go up to 45. Please and Thank you
Shoot.. I don't remember.
at 7:20, you insert the metal bushing into the leaf spring eyelet. are you supose to have metal to metal contact? or is ther another bushing for the eyelet? please help! I have the shackle and hanger but not sure if i still need another bushing!!
Everything came with the kit I ordered. The metal bushing presses into the eyelet of the leaf spring. The external metal part of the bushing does not move inside the leaf spring. It should all make sense when you get your new parts and go to put them in. Hope this helped. Let me know if it doesn't.
Where did you get your replacement brackets?
I believe Rock Auto.
I got one in the shop now that is so badly rusted that the bed will come out without unbolting it.
Minrs was almost to that point. Only had three bolts holding it on. Lol
I have to do both rearwards and forwards on mine, fml
Better to do them all while you can, last guy that owned mine replaced the forward ones but neglected the rearward ones. If you have the bed off inspect the strut mounts as well.
Dude coat that frame with gray primer it kilm that rust
P.S. where did you get the hangers and shackles?
Online. I forget what source.
I bought mine off Rock Auto
Rock Auto
Hey I just did a rotor and pads front change on my Honda Civic 2012 hf. Do I bleed or flush the brakes? What order?
Did you open the system, like taking the calipers off or anything? If not and air didn't get in the system you should be good on the bleed. Make sure the pedal is nice and firm. Flushing the system would be suggested if the fluid is contaminated or if it's time to flush it per your manufacturer's maintenance recommendations.
I had to compress the caliper back in with a tool. I had to take it off to change the rotors
I also changed the rear shoes and drums before doing the front
Did you read the discrption on my video explaining how to compress a caliper? th-cam.com/video/3RYG0ymWEFE/w-d-xo.html
Did you opened the hydraulic part of the system and did air get in?. Did you open the bleeder or take the brake line or hose off or open the system in any way?