Did one of these today at work. It didn't have bolts so I had to cut the rivets off and push them out. I had to press the bushing out with a ball joint press and an impact, worked fine. Also it is possible to put the bracket on first then the shackle. Use a stubby wrench to hold the nut while you tighten the upper shackle bolt, only if you forget to put the shackle on the bracket before you put the bracket on the frame. Torque to spec and your good, if you work in a shop. For diy'ers, just use thread locker and crank them down.
Nicely done vid....04 mazda b2300 same setup, did the right side today, took 6 hours, had to cut the upper bolt out with a torch. The spring bushing came out with the ball joint press, but the trick is to cut the rubber lips off the bushing so it can slide thru the press sleeve. Spring work is dirty, and if you dont bleed at the end of the job, you are a master mechanic.
I will be doing the drivers side later today. I did the other side about 3 years ago using the Dorman parts as well. I used an Angle Grinder from Harbor Freight tools using the metal cutting wheel 4 1/2 inch grinder. Used it to cut the bolts from the bushings in the spring loop, as well as the bolt heads where it mounts to the frame. The grinder worked Great! Cut the bolts, etc. nicely! I paid $21.00 for the grinder, has decent reviews as well. Pretty powerful tool at that. Did not have to use blow torch at all, wasn't needed. There is a Handle on the grinder, I took it off to maneuver the grinder more easily with parts from the truck in the way. I used one hand while cutting the bolts holding the grinder! Good Luck! UPDATE: I did use the torch to melt the bushing. But it took forever to burn off. So I burned it just enough to get it all out of the spring loop. Watch it as well!! Don't let the melting rubber drip on your skin!! Ouch!!
I used the ts8000 torch head with map gas. It took 3 min 18 seconds to melt the rubber out. Also heated the spring for 2 min before installing the new bushing. Helped it go in significantly easier.
Very informative. I looked this up because the bracket on my 97 just did the same thing. Very helpful. Especially the part about installing the shackle to the bracket before installing it to the frame. That saves me a huge headache. I probably wouldn't have thought that through until it was too late.
Really nice job and love the way you show the install and then the play by play for doing the install and the sequence for getting it done correctly Thanks for a great video. Gotta get to work fixing mine now!!
If you don't want to buy a torch to get rusty nuts and bolts off try "Freeze Off". It work amazing! It starte to eat the rust as soon as you spray it on! PB works ok but Freeze Off is better. It's about $8 a bottle. I highly recommend it!
Having removed more than my share of rubber bushings, I suggest you try drilling the rubber bushing out. A 5/16" ( or larger depending on bushing size) will chew out enough material to allow removal in about a 1/4 of the time it takes to melt it out, no burning, no smoke. There will be some rubber debris, but it is way easier and cleaner, and no flame/chance of fire! Just be careful you don't snap the drill off, take it easy, and it will be out before you know it.
You may have just saved me some money. I also have a 2001 ranger and I had the same thing happen to my truck (also from Michigan). Thank-you for the video. I will let you know how it goes.
Excellent, in Michigan also. Was gonna have it done in a shop but after watching this, I believe it's quite simple with your tips . Oh, I'm sure there will be stumbling blocks, but I have more time than money, sooooooooo, off I go. Appreciate and THANKS for posting!!! :D
Assuming the bushings would stay like they are when they are new then you are correct, they would just slide out. However 13 years of Michigan roads have made them as hard as concrete.
This was the first time I have seen melting out the bushing .... I wasted an hour trying to break loose my shackle bolts to give me some room to cut out the bolts with out damaging the shackle .... thanks !
Bought a grinder...removed the first 2 in 10 minutes...also have a grinder now..cheaper than the $600 that others would charge to do this. Still have to learn how to jack up the vehicle to make the spring unattach from my bed but I'm working on getting the rivets off the truck first seeing that the shackle is fully detached on both sides
Dude he will save you a ton of cash, my ranger had 3 of its shackles rusted out. Instead of getting 3 shackle kits and doing it myself and spending maybe a max of 140-150 bucks. My mom said no you're not a mechanic and took it to a spring replacement warehouse (because my mechanic doesn't do that.) It in the end costed my mom 600 dollars. Biggest rip off besides my new oil pan. Which costed my parents another 500 dollars because they needed to drop my tranny in the process.
The bed is fairly simple to remove. Just don't forget to disconnect your fuel fill neck and your tail lights. Didn't have many problems at all doing it this way though.
Keep at it. It'll get done eventually. Not sure what you mean by the spring being embedded into the frame... They aren't supposed to line up. The spring should be outside the frame.
Did you jack the vehicle up by the suspension or frame? I just used a sawz-all and it took about 4-5 blades to get the job done. It's not easy and takes some time. It also helped to use a pry bar and pry the mount away from the frame a little bit so you are able to get to the bolts easier to cut them.
Also the actual spring shackle is embedded into the bed of my truck and I can't get the leaf spring to be relaxed to get it out. How do I loosen the leaf spring in order to get it to be flexible like yours?
Having a problem getting the 4 rivets off the frame. Don't have an air hammer and tried an electric saw. What's the best way of removing the rivets off of the frame to get the leaf spring hanger out?
Thanks for the Video! Just did it this weekend on my 98' Ranger. However I had to use MAP gas to get my bushings out. I'm pretty sure that those leaf springs won't be weakened by less than 5 minutes of heat. And are you sure you used a 32mm socket to pound out that bushing? A 22mm fit for mine.
Doin the same thing on my 99 this weekend. Only thing different is I am also replacing that piece of the rear frame as well so I am also getting that welded on. If all goes well, I am looking forward for the ass of the truck to not look like a low rider haha.
I wanna know how long it had to take you to sawzaw them spring hanger rivets off. I know it had to be a pain in the butt. I used to work at a Tower Automotive and we built these exact frames.
Coach I used the new Milwaukee metal cutting blade and it went through like butter. About 1 minute each. A standard blade definitely would have taken awhile.
Same shit happrned to mine.. same year everything.. passenger side.. tail gate is rusting too, hole through the box already, always had a topoer on it.. them rangers rust from the bottom up!
I'm going to attempt this, this weekend on my silverado my shackle shaped in half and ripped one end of the bolt out with it but it still won't come out do you think it will matter if the bolt is still in it when you melt it
After doing this job on my 98 ranger, my leaf (rear eye)is sliding laterally on that steel bushing and banging around in the sloppy fit. I feel like i crashed and burned because if you torch out a rubber bushing on a leaf, you had better put that rubber bushing back in before the steel sleeved bushing is inserted. Someone help me, did this video miss a step?
I am afraid of that, that bushing went in easy, all of my parts looked exactly as yours and i did not need a C clamp to press it in. Could my leaf springs be different or damaged from the heat. Great video though. Thanks
I am glad I live a distance down a gravel road in Minnesota. It sandblasts your undercarriage every day. My frame and suspension are rust free. I sheared one of mine in two on a bad pothole. One way or the other the government makes a road break your car. Kickbacking fools.
@SparkysGarage I use the melt out method like you did on those rubber bushings on my explorer and can not find replacements bushings for them where did you get yours? Right now I have just the bolt and sleeve that came with my shackles and it makes a clunking noise every time I hit a bump or turn right cause there is a bit of play between the sleeve and leaf spring.
I got under it this weekend and got a measurement on it and got some that fit at a local auto parts store not too bad 5 bucks a piece and it took care of it. thanks for the info, I heard rockauto was a good place for parts I need to check them out.
Thank you for this video!! I'm doing exactly what you are doing now but also replacing entire leaf spring. I have a question on the rear shackle and bracket. Should the rear shackle move forward and back after I tighten the bolt down to the bracket? IE: I can swing it forward and rearward,. or should it be so tight that it doesn't move at all? thanks much, -Nigel
NewShockerGuy It will move with the weight of the vehicle no matter how hard you tighten it. Use lock-tite and snug it up pretty good and you'll be fine. I don't know the exact torque spec
Thank for the video! I am going to be replacing the shackles, mounts and rear leaf springs on my 01' ranger next week. Nothing is broken off like in your picture, but is it recommended to jack the rear end up, It appears one of your tires is off the ground? I just wanted to know the correct process or order. Undo the leaf spring center ubolts first, or rear shackle bolt that is attached to the spring, or the front..etc. What I am trying to avoid is the spring flinging down or snapping as I am undoing it in an incorrect order. Thanks much, Video is great! -Nigel
NewShockerGuy Yes the tire has to be off the ground. Don't unbolt the bad bracket unless the tire is of the ground or your spring will slam into the box probably pinning some of your fingers. Careful.
Sparky like to ask you a few questions....I also wrote Dorman for a reply as well, not sure when/if I'd get one though. When you tightened the Long Bolts and nuts with the Bracket and Bushings to spring Loop, was there Play after securely tightened? Because unless you are Superman you can't tightened them long bolts and nuts to make a Snug fit, know what I mean? I just tightened them So Tight, I almost popped a muscle in my arm! Also, Was there a lot of Resistance through most of the length of the Long bolts? It was easy putting on the nuts finger tight only about less than a 1/2 inch, then had to use a socket and wrench all the rest of the way. Same thing with you? Please reply when you can? Thanks!
+Jerry Wiorek There needs to be a little slack to allow the shackle to move. So they shouldn't have to be super tight. I do not know the torque spec off hand.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you use a torch on the leaf, won't it weaken the metal? Currently trying to get the bushings out of my 2000 Durango. WHAT A PAIN. I did the right rear about 3 years ago, and everything came apart REAL easy. The leaf is still in the vehicle and I don't want to smoke anything. Any other ideas besides a torch? G.K.
+Gary Kovach Torch was the only option I could get to work. It was just a propane torch, not map gas, So I don't feel it would do any substantial weakening to the spring.
+SparkysGarage Thanx for the reply. After (2) COUNT'EM TWO FKN DAYS, I have completed SAID operation. WOULD I DO THIS AGAIN WITHOUT THE PROPER TOOLS??!! no, would rather do an engine swap. Thank you for your support, GK
Nice video. Great idea with the bushing. When you talk about recip saw to remove the bracket. Are you talking about cutting the whole bracket including the bolts or just cutting each nut off?
Hi Sparky :) I have a mystery. Working on replacing rear shackle on a 94XL Ranger. On the Dorman part I ordered the bushing is supposed to be pressed into the eye of the leaf spring, but the bushing is actually too small in diameter. Ever hear of this problem? Any hints? According to Auto Zone, Auto Parts Warehouse and local Bud's Springs this is supposed to be the correct part. Maybe I just have to go to the Ford dealership? Incidentally the bushing that came with the front hanger seemed too big for the eye, but managed to get it pressed in. Also I see many pictures that seem to show a rubber grommet?bushing? squishing out of the eye. I think I need to find that...
Staci Cavalinha Hummel The part number I used worked fine. Sounds to my like maybe you have aftermarket springs? Check the measurements and have a parts place look them up.
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Did one of these today at work. It didn't have bolts so I had to cut the rivets off and push them out. I had to press the bushing out with a ball joint press and an impact, worked fine. Also it is possible to put the bracket on first then the shackle. Use a stubby wrench to hold the nut while you tighten the upper shackle bolt, only if you forget to put the shackle on the bracket before you put the bracket on the frame. Torque to spec and your good, if you work in a shop. For diy'ers, just use thread locker and crank them down.
Nicely done vid....04 mazda b2300 same setup, did the right side today, took 6 hours, had to cut the upper bolt out with a torch. The spring bushing came out with the ball joint press, but the trick is to cut the rubber lips off the bushing so it can slide thru the press sleeve. Spring work is dirty, and if you dont bleed at the end of the job, you are a master mechanic.
I will be doing the drivers side later today. I did the other side about 3 years ago using the Dorman parts as well. I used an Angle Grinder from Harbor Freight tools using the metal cutting wheel 4 1/2 inch grinder. Used it to cut the bolts from the bushings in the spring loop, as well as the bolt heads where it mounts to the frame. The grinder worked Great! Cut the bolts, etc. nicely! I paid $21.00 for the grinder, has decent reviews as well. Pretty powerful tool at that. Did not have to use blow torch at all, wasn't needed. There is a Handle on the grinder, I took it off to maneuver the grinder more easily with parts from the truck in the way. I used one hand while cutting the bolts holding the grinder! Good Luck!
UPDATE: I did use the torch to melt the bushing. But it took forever to burn off. So I burned it just enough to get it all out of the spring loop. Watch it as well!! Don't let the melting rubber drip on your skin!! Ouch!!
+Jerry Wiorek Awesome!
my springs are through my bed quiet the surprise when the snow melted this year! thanks for the video
That’s a common thing with Rangers in the rust belt.
Happened to mine as well
Thanks for the video. Using the torch and heating up the bushing worked perfectly.
I installed new shackles and mounting brackets today. Your video was a big help.Thanks.
Glad I was able to help!
I used the ts8000 torch head with map gas. It took 3 min 18 seconds to melt the rubber out. Also heated the spring for 2 min before installing the new bushing. Helped it go in significantly easier.
Very informative. I looked this up because the bracket on my 97 just did the same thing. Very helpful. Especially the part about installing the shackle to the bracket before installing it to the frame. That saves me a huge headache. I probably wouldn't have thought that through until it was too late.
Really nice job and love the way you show the install and then the play by play for doing the install and the sequence
for getting it done correctly Thanks for a great video. Gotta get to work fixing mine now!!
TWA717 Thanks! Great to hear :)
Thank You for the detailed pics...doing an 03 Ranger 4x4 today...
You cleared up several "gray areas " !!
ive got a 94 and both sides are rusted gotta love Michigan. ill be doing them come spring
Glad I could help. It's good stuff to know how to do.
If you don't want to buy a torch to get rusty nuts and bolts off try "Freeze Off". It work amazing! It starte to eat the rust as soon as you spray it on! PB works ok but Freeze Off is better. It's about $8 a bottle. I highly recommend it!
Xavier Berumen I'll have to try the stuff sometime.
Melt the bushings out! Thanks a ton, big help!
Best info I have come across so far. Very helpful, thank you
clinton iker thanks!!
Thank you for mentioning the plate has to go toward the front.
Sathoff happy to help!
Having removed more than my share of rubber bushings, I suggest you try drilling the rubber bushing out. A 5/16" ( or larger depending on bushing size) will chew out enough material to allow removal in about a 1/4 of the time it takes to melt it out, no burning, no smoke. There will be some rubber debris, but it is way easier and cleaner, and no flame/chance of fire! Just be careful you don't snap the drill off, take it easy, and it will be out before you know it.
More than one way to skin a cat! :)
You may have just saved me some money. I also have a 2001 ranger and I had the same thing happen to my truck (also from Michigan). Thank-you for the video. I will let you know how it goes.
Awesome how to video! 99.9percent Perfect! Great job guys!
Patrick Smith Thanks!
Excellent, in Michigan also. Was gonna have it done in a shop but after watching this, I believe it's quite simple with your tips . Oh, I'm sure there will be stumbling blocks, but I have more time than money, sooooooooo, off I go. Appreciate and THANKS for posting!!! :D
Patrick O'Connor Glad the vid helped brother! Keep us updated
Thanks man! Same thing with mine... Thought it was my spare bouncing around when turning right..
Assuming the bushings would stay like they are when they are new then you are correct, they would just slide out. However 13 years of Michigan roads have made them as hard as concrete.
This was the first time I have seen melting out the bushing .... I wasted an hour trying to break loose my shackle bolts to give me some room to cut out the bolts with out damaging the shackle .... thanks !
Bought a grinder...removed the first 2 in 10 minutes...also have a grinder now..cheaper than the $600 that others would charge to do this. Still have to learn how to jack up the vehicle to make the spring unattach from my bed but I'm working on getting the rivets off the truck first seeing that the shackle is fully detached on both sides
I haven't tackled this project yet but I know for sure I will be taking off the bed
Dude he will save you a ton of cash, my ranger had 3 of its shackles rusted out. Instead of getting 3 shackle kits and doing it myself and spending maybe a max of 140-150 bucks. My mom said no you're not a mechanic and took it to a spring replacement warehouse (because my mechanic doesn't do that.) It in the end costed my mom 600 dollars. Biggest rip off besides my new oil pan. Which costed my parents another 500 dollars because they needed to drop my tranny in the process.
LOL
The bed is fairly simple to remove. Just don't forget to disconnect your fuel fill neck and your tail lights.
Didn't have many problems at all doing it this way though.
Thank you, this was a great help.
Thank you. I'm going for it.
Damien Fernandez Awesome!
Keep at it. It'll get done eventually. Not sure what you mean by the spring being embedded into the frame... They aren't supposed to line up. The spring should be outside the frame.
Got to keep the frames clean to just got a 99 perfect frame as all the videos I keep seeing on this I got lucky 🍀
Great video. Getting ready to do this project myself.
Excellent video 💪🏻
Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it :)
alot of help thx
Glad you like the vid :)
Did you jack the vehicle up by the suspension or frame?
I just used a sawz-all and it took about 4-5 blades to get the job done. It's not easy and takes some time.
It also helped to use a pry bar and pry the mount away from the frame a little bit so you are able to get to the bolts easier to cut them.
Also the actual spring shackle is embedded into the bed of my truck and I can't get the leaf spring to be relaxed to get it out. How do I loosen the leaf spring in order to get it to be flexible like yours?
Having a problem getting the 4 rivets off the frame. Don't have an air hammer and tried an electric saw. What's the best way of removing the rivets off of the frame to get the leaf spring hanger out?
Very good brother, thank you for the video
My whole mounting bracket snaped in half
Glad I could help out :)
Undercoat is worth alot, even just once every two years it works
Im going to undercoat the SHIT out of my f150. Already started the process.
drill multiples holes in the bushing to remove it, it take 10 minutes. Nice video
melting it took about the same amount of time, either way :)
You can get that bolt out with air hammer I did mine today it was crusted in their but big azz air hammer drove it out with ease.
Thanks for the Video! Just did it this weekend on my 98' Ranger. However I had to use MAP gas to get my bushings out. I'm pretty sure that those leaf springs won't be weakened by less than 5 minutes of heat. And are you sure you used a 32mm socket to pound out that bushing? A 22mm fit for mine.
Great vid I will be doing this to my 94 explorer
Just did this only problem I had was you're 9 min burn , took me less than 5 with mapp gas. other wise went as shown...thanks
Good stuff, glad it helped.
Helped out tremendously. On time.
jacked it up by the suspension
Nice! Thanks for the video!
nice im doing this now
great video
:) Thanks for the feedback.
Doin the same thing on my 99 this weekend. Only thing different is I am also replacing that piece of the rear frame as well so I am also getting that welded on. If all goes well, I am looking forward for the ass of the truck to not look like a low rider haha.
lol awesome.
Did u get it fixed?
I wanna know how long it had to take you to sawzaw them spring hanger rivets off. I know it had to be a pain in the butt. I used to work at a Tower Automotive and we built these exact frames.
Coach I used the new Milwaukee metal cutting blade and it went through like butter. About 1 minute each.
A standard blade definitely would have taken awhile.
No. Only if you buy lift shackles that are longer.
I know what you mean. I plan on purchasing another truck soon. Probably an F-150
Same shit happrned to mine.. same year everything.. passenger side.. tail gate is rusting too, hole through the box already, always had a topoer on it.. them rangers rust from the bottom up!
the bushing came out my truck but the outer metal part that holds the rubber and the metal sleeve is still in the spring
I'm going to attempt this, this weekend on my silverado my shackle shaped in half and ripped one end of the bolt out with it but it still won't come out do you think it will matter if the bolt is still in it when you melt it
allischalmers7030 It shouldn't matter. Melt the shit out of it. Keep an extinguisher nearby
After doing this job on my 98 ranger, my leaf (rear eye)is sliding laterally on that steel bushing and banging around in the sloppy fit. I feel like i crashed and burned because if you torch out a rubber bushing on a leaf, you had better put that rubber bushing back in before the steel sleeved bushing is inserted. Someone help me, did this video miss a step?
You probably have the wrong parts.
I am afraid of that, that bushing went in easy, all of my parts looked exactly as yours and i did not need a C clamp to press it in. Could my leaf springs be different or damaged from the heat. Great video though. Thanks
I am glad I live a distance down a gravel road in Minnesota. It sandblasts your undercarriage every day. My frame and suspension are rust free. I sheared one of mine in two on a bad pothole. One way or the other the government makes a road break your car. Kickbacking fools.
@SparkysGarage I use the melt out method like you did on those rubber bushings on my explorer and can not find replacements bushings for them where did you get yours? Right now I have just the bolt and sleeve that came with my shackles and it makes a clunking noise every time I hit a bump or turn right cause there is a bit of play between the sleeve and leaf spring.
+ogbobbye rockauto I think. It's been awhile
I got under it this weekend and got a measurement on it and got some that fit at a local auto parts store not too bad 5 bucks a piece and it took care of it. thanks for the info, I heard rockauto was a good place for parts I need to check them out.
+ogbobbye Awesome!
Thank you for this video!! I'm doing exactly what you are doing now but also replacing entire leaf spring.
I have a question on the rear shackle and bracket. Should the rear shackle move forward and back after I tighten the bolt down to the bracket? IE: I can swing it forward and rearward,. or should it be so tight that it doesn't move at all?
thanks much,
-Nigel
NewShockerGuy It will move with the weight of the vehicle no matter how hard you tighten it. Use lock-tite and snug it up pretty good and you'll be fine. I don't know the exact torque spec
Thank for the video! I am going to be replacing the shackles, mounts and rear leaf springs on my 01' ranger next week. Nothing is broken off like in your picture, but is it recommended to jack the rear end up, It appears one of your tires is off the ground?
I just wanted to know the correct process or order. Undo the leaf spring center ubolts first, or rear shackle bolt that is attached to the spring, or the front..etc. What I am trying to avoid is the spring flinging down or snapping as I am undoing it in an incorrect order.
Thanks much,
Video is great!
-Nigel
NewShockerGuy Yes the tire has to be off the ground. Don't unbolt the bad bracket unless the tire is of the ground or your spring will slam into the box probably pinning some of your fingers. Careful.
hey guys i have a 94 ranger with this problem. want to replace rear shackles and mounts. where you guys get these parts? thanks
I ended up ordering them through rockauto.com
Cool man! Thanks :)
South of Detroit.
Sparky like to ask you a few questions....I also wrote Dorman for a reply as well, not sure when/if I'd get one though. When you tightened the Long Bolts and nuts with the Bracket and Bushings to spring Loop, was there Play after securely tightened? Because unless you are Superman you can't tightened them long bolts and nuts to make a Snug fit, know what I mean? I just tightened them So Tight, I almost popped a muscle in my arm! Also, Was there a lot of Resistance through most of the length of the Long bolts? It was easy putting on the nuts finger tight only about less than a 1/2 inch, then had to use a socket and wrench all the rest of the way. Same thing with you? Please reply when you can? Thanks!
+Jerry Wiorek There needs to be a little slack to allow the shackle to move. So they shouldn't have to be super tight. I do not know the torque spec off hand.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you use a torch on the leaf, won't it weaken the metal? Currently trying to get the bushings out of my 2000 Durango. WHAT A PAIN. I did the right rear about 3 years ago, and everything came apart REAL easy. The leaf is still in the vehicle and I don't want to smoke anything. Any other ideas besides a torch? G.K.
+Gary Kovach Torch was the only option I could get to work. It was just a propane torch, not map gas, So I don't feel it would do any substantial weakening to the spring.
+SparkysGarage Thanx for the reply. After (2) COUNT'EM TWO FKN DAYS, I have completed SAID operation. WOULD I DO THIS AGAIN WITHOUT THE PROPER TOOLS??!! no, would rather do an engine swap. Thank you for your support, GK
+Sp
arkysGarage
Nice video. Great idea with the bushing. When you talk about recip saw to remove the bracket. Are you talking about cutting the whole bracket including the bolts or just cutting each nut off?
Dan Davis Thanks!
the top bolt of the shackle just keeps spinning i cant get it out. any ideas?
+Matthew Peterson sawzall
Hey man how did you support your ranger?
The rust belt strikes again.
Does this lift up the truck a little?
The only thing I kinda don't get is burning the bushing with the torch.. It just seems like that would just slide out. I know im missing something lol
Hi Sparky :) I have a mystery. Working on replacing rear shackle on a 94XL Ranger. On the Dorman part I ordered the bushing is supposed to be pressed into the eye of the leaf spring, but the bushing is actually too small in diameter. Ever hear of this problem? Any hints? According to Auto Zone, Auto Parts Warehouse and local Bud's Springs this is supposed to be the correct part. Maybe I just have to go to the Ford dealership? Incidentally the bushing that came with the front hanger seemed too big for the eye, but managed to get it pressed in. Also I see many pictures that seem to show a rubber grommet?bushing? squishing out of the eye. I think I need to find that...
Staci Cavalinha Hummel The part number I used worked fine. Sounds to my like maybe you have aftermarket springs? Check the measurements and have a parts place look them up.
My only worry is breaking a bed bolt. I've heard a few guys saying they broke them
dude! the bolts on the bumper were a pain to get off. I did my other shackle last year and now im doing to other.
Casey King All the bolts are a pain. Solid rust. As awesome as that truck was im glad its gone now
Go Buckeyes!!
wow some serious rust. I drive same truck and year and I don't have any rust problem.
Got the new truck Ziebart undercoated, hoping that will help get a few more years out of it.
Hey Sparky, how did you suspend the truck in order to work on it properly?
pgoody Jack and stands under the frame
SparkysGarage any particular placement of those that wirks best??
somewhere that supports the vehicle but won't be in the way of your work.
I live in Metro Detroit. would you help me replace the front bushings on my ranger. I would be more than glad to compensate.
Which front bushings are you referring to? The control arm bushings?
no I need the bushings on the leaf springs. I had the springs rebuilt but the neglected to fix the bushings at the same time.
Tomorrow i'm replacing the shocks and leaf springs on my Ranger. Can't wait to see how fucking rusted to hell it is :(
mines a michigan truck, doesn't get much worse than that.
Same here lol. It was rusted to hell so I had to replace the shackles too and of course all the bolts since I had to cut them off to get them out
Took me 20 minutes to replace with an angel grinder.
I didn’t have many tools when I made this vid. Glad it was quickly done with better tools 👍🏻
This job is so much easier if the bed is removed first.
Definitely seems like it would be!
Side note. Also a Michigander..... How's she Goin' Eh!!!!
+Nordic Viking lol. it's goin. It's michigan.
Where do you live in mich? I'm here in lapeer.
Trenton
Sounds like you're about 2 hours away.
where in mi
You need under coating paint will not protect
cenmike82 Yeah, little late for that now. Already taken care of on my new truck though :)
dont u love snow ice and rain and rust
O.M.G..... can he talk any slower..
ducrnd Your ZERO videos are very helpful as well.