"How do I... 003" - one of the MOST important safety devices on a sailboat... Running a boom-brake.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- I would advise anybody with a sailboat to run a boom-brake instead of a preventer.
The boom-brake lets the boom come across slowly in the event of an accidental jibe (gybe) and results in the boat heaving-to instead of getting slammed over.
I use a climbing figure-8 instead of a brake from a 'marine' supplier. It's a fraction of the cost of a marine version, and the grade of aluminium is suitable for marine environments.
You can buy them off Amazon, eBay, a local climbing store, etc.
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As a former sailor AND climber, I've used climbing gear on my boat for a number of purposes. Saved quite a bit of money that way.
For those looking to buy the parts on their own: Please note that the proper name for this key piece of hardware is a Rescue 8 . Different from a Climbing 8 due to its larger size and pair of 'ears' on the larger radius. Search and Rescue use these for heavy loads and more rope control options ( via the ears) . Rock Climbing 8s are smaller because they need to be light and rack easy. Climbers dont need some huge clunky piece of metal clanging around getting in the way of the rest of the gear. For many decades now most rock climbers do not use an 8 but a smaller dedicated belay /rappel device. T-6061 aluminum is the common alloy used . It is not specifically 'marine grade' , but is corrosion resistant . It is used on aircraft , yachts, climbing gear, bicycles and a gazillion other things
I climbed with a figure 8 for years. It’s simple and nearly impossible to mess up. The belay devices most used today are complicated, multipart affairs that seem to me to be less versatile and easier to rig wrong, or even malfunction. The guy in this video is not using the rescue 8’s ears at all, and a figure 8 would do this job pretty well, although you are right that the rescue 8 has twice the load capacity, likely important in this application.
Not being a climber, I didn't know the distinction between a figure 8 and rescue 8. The advantage of the rescue 8 (which I use as a brake on my boat) is that you can hook a bight of line around one of the ears. You don't need to free one end of the line (or disconnect the device from the boom) to string the line through.
Thanks for this useful information, I have now purchased one locally in Thailand for 450 baht which is approx $15. Works very well on my 48 ft sloop and although I have a fully enclosed Bimini with no danger of head strike it’s still saving me potential damage to boom and mast. Cheers
I do like it for a number of reasons. Firstly, because it is permanently rigged, the boom is always under control during the time it takes to haul in the main prior to a gybe. Secondly, because like all the best things, it’s simple and has nothing to go wrong at the worst moment, and thirdly, because we find it very effective in damping the antics of the boom in light winds and a swell when set up for extra friction. And it really does slow the boom down during all manoeuvres-no crashing across and damaging gear.
... having almost no sailing experience but a comprehensive engineering understanding.
I personally wouldn't install the figure 8 device direct to a metal shakel. I would prefer a metal to line to metal arrangement
Agree - a soft shackle is called for.
Same here. I have used Paracord doubled up with no problem.
Well done! I added an identical climbing figure 8 to my boat for my solo race to Hawaii this past summer, and it worked great.
Two thoughts: 1. It's possible to avoid reeving the line through the figure 8 from the end by taking a bight of line through it instead and hooking the bight onto one of the horns. 2. If you have a loose-footed main, and if that sail cover doesn't get in the way, you don't have to add any hardware mid-boom to move the attachment point forward. Simply hang the figure 8 from a dyneema strop around the boom, and tie a second line from the figure 8 to the end of the boom to stop it from sliding forward.
That’s one of the smartest rigs I’ve ever seen on a sailboat for anything. Thanks for that!!
We use the same but connected close to the kicker ( vang) then take the ends through blocks on the mast base. When the boom comes back it will be lifted by the sail and brake will be under more tension .
Reasons for an "Uncontrolled " Gybe.
1. As your're making way down wind in heavy conditionds (high winds & waves) the stern can be lifted by a large wave & change the attitude of the wind towards the sail...especially when sailing wing on wing.
2. An inexperienede helmsperson who looses touch with the wind / sail conditions.
3. A major wind shift (which can be predictable in fluky air).
I don't sail wing on wing in rolling sea conditions / winds greater than 8 knots.
Higher winds for me means sailing broard reach up to 18 knots.
Winds higher than 18 knots my boat can reach maximum hull speed with the head sail only.
Sailing down wind (winds abaft the beam) takes more focus on the attitude of the vessel.
Lastly making a Gybe maneuver requires centering the boom (hardening up the main sheet) before Gybing.
Use soft shackle as wear from stainless fitting will quickly wear through aluminum!
As a climer and sailor I have seen many broken carabiners! The way the carabiner is attached to the boom end is very likly to break the carabiner under havy load, as it is bent over a ridgde with a very strong lever to its disadvantage! Carabinerts are only strong in the direction they are meant to. Please use a softshackel instead. Fair winds, Christoph
Just bought a stainless steel one on your recommendation, as a first up preventer. Thanks for the nudge.
Seems like it makes a ton of sense, and a great idea. Would be cool to demonstrate it in action if you get a chance. Cheers
Thanks... I still need to change the attachment point to about a 3rd of the way back down the boom, and then it will work at all points of sail.
Based on the facebook comments, it seems that there are quite a few people using climbing figure-8's as a boom brake.
Although a truly proper method is a preventer and is rigged only one way, and that is from the boom end to as far forward as you can get it on the bow, and then back to a winch in the cockpit. It is all about physics; example, a proper preventer would be about 1200 pounds (540 kg) as against some 7,000 pounds (3300 kg) or more on an amidships attached alternative! Of course, on a smaller boat the loads will be lower, but the strength of the gear will be lower too, so the dangers will remain. I have seen numerous booms broken from preventers set from mid boom to mid rail. A boom brake is not a replacement for a preventer, not least because a preventer is normally rigged from right forward on deck and attached to further outboard on the boom where it has more purchase, and there is also less chance of breaking or bending the boom should it dip in.
I disagree. I feel that it's safer to brake an accidental jibe than to try to prevent it altogether. I don't like the idea of the mainsail being exposed squarely to the full force of the wind while the boat is brought back under control, especially when sailing shorthanded when this may take some time.
With a preventer rigged from the boom end to "as far forward as you can get it" as is the standard advice, as the boom moves toward centerline and the preventer line stretches, the line's mechanical advantage rapidly decreases and the load on the line and the gooseneck will be enormous. True, you won't break the boom, but very possibly something else.
By contrast, with a boom brake rigged mid boom to roughly amidships, the geometry change is much smaller as the boom swings. The loads on the line are much smaller to start with because the boom is not immobilized, and the load does not change much as the boom moves across.
@@maxcrittenden9109 Now of course a boom brake will dissipate some of this energy by slipping, as designed, and consequently may withstand the strain and protect itself and the boom. (It will certainly do a better job in this regard than a tackle to the rail with no give.)
But do you want to assume that the brake and its lines are perfectly set up and adjusted at all times, or that they can withstand these kinds of loads, even momentarily? Not me.
And a brake does not solve the problem of point loading the boom in the middle with a substantial horizontal plane component that most booms were never designed to take.
@@maxcrittenden9109 We don’t have a boom brake because we don’t like having a line strung across the deck-just another manifestation of our well-known fetish for clear decks-and also because we would worry about the loads on such a device on a boat as big as ours. Having said that, I can certainly see the benefits of said gear, both convenience and safety wise.
Thanks. Good advice and I've just bought one like that!
Many thanks for your cheap solution, just bought one off Amazon.
Great idea, but the shackle at the attachment point appears to be side-loaded (I.e. it is not in line with the angle of the boom break). That may cause it to fail if the set-up is shock loaded, as could occur in a crash-gybe.
He explains that he intends to install a new attachment point, one-third forward along the boom.
Thanks for the tip, I like it and will add to our boat this season. We are very well protected from the boom but i would like to avoid equipment damage and maybe tune that downwind a little closer.
S/V Drifter, Butte
Thank you - I will definitely try this
I have a strong doubt about this device. Ordinary preventer is usually set tight against the main sheet, while this system is loose and allows the first momentum of the boom movement at jibe free, so the boom gets some energy. But the main point: the preventers are set outside the life lines. So, I suspect, the life lines might be under heavy stress at every gibe with this system, when the end of the boom passes over the lifeline in direction to the center, unless something else is designed to save the lifelines . Thank you .
As the author correctly stated, this is a brake not a preventer. It slows down the boom as it travels to the other side so it's not a violent jerk. I've used this on my boat and it definitely works.
Had TWO accidental jibes while 150 miles offshore last summer ad I was solo. It was scary.
plenty of toerail to hook the boom there with few lines from different directions on the right side
Hi, novice sailor here. Would you typically use the figure of eight with a traveler? I assume this boat has no traveler because of the asymmetrical hatch way? Thanks in advance.
If not use a boom break myself. Too many disadvantages as compared to advantages. I hope you never break your boom using it.
i just got mine from china for 11 bux - 50kn - very beefy looking thing
Ran the 2nd line over a rail? huh?
Where else? Under?
Shock loading on a cast alloy boom fitting is never going to end well.
Here’s the thing - the figure it prevents the shock loading and allows the energy in the sale to be absorbed over a distance instead of all at once, so the forces go way way way way down. Energy divided by equals force.
with a preventer the energy is absorbed over a couple of inches; with a break, the energy is absorbed over many feet so the forces go way down.
In my experience preventers put you in a bad position - your boom is on the wrong side of the boat unlocked there and it’s really hard to recover. The great just gets you a gentle gibe instead of a violent one.
How's that shock loading on an accidental gybe without anything slowing down? The shock is cause by acceleration of the boom.
Tatenda baba eish
can you talk more clearly !