Hi Mark. Used your videos to rebuild my M4 602cc engine over the weekend. Thanks a million for going to the effort of filming this as a reference for diy mechanics like myself. Invaluable footage. Similar set up except I’ve no oil filter and the flat manifold. I’m looking forward to the 425cc engine rebuild, as they are very similar to the M4. Thanks again Conor
Excellent videos, just a note, I usually leave the gudgeon pins in the freezer overnight before a rebuild, then they always seem that small bit easier to go in if they are a tight fit. Most 2CV ones just push in quite easily though, tight ones aren't so common.
Hi, leaving pins in the freezer is a good tip. I have found that genuine Citroen pins are easily fitted but after market pistons ( these ones were Breteille if I remember correctly ) are often much tighter. Thanks for watching!
One more small note about these late engines (this engine is post '86), always check the ends of those pushrods carefully for any sign of looseness, cracking or separation of the ends, it happened on batches of the later engines and became a problem, but it very rarely happened before this date.
Hello and thank you very much for your effort to make such an easy to understand and well made video series. I have a dream of making a 'super-2cv' for myself, made to my specifications (galvanized chassis and body, GS gearbox and maybe a small turbo later on amongst other things)... this video makes the engine bit (excluding the turbo) very much less daunting... I particularly like the way good knowledge/judgement and craftsmanship more or less replaces the need to buy all new internals; one is simply replacing the parts that are worn, judged by experience and knowledge. I hope you are safe and sound in these rather demanding times. Kind regards from Sweden!
Hi Martin, really glad you liked the videos. Your idea for a project sounds really interesting, I hope you can fulfil your dream. Thanks for watching, it is great that someone from Sweden has enjoyed them ! Tack igen och håll dig säker!
GS gearbox did not fit a 2cv chassis, fits only in the Ami 8 super chassis who doest exists in new...the original 2cv gearbox is very strong (if in goood condition) and some BMW motorcycle fited 2cvs use it without problem (but with reinforced clutch)
Great video again. A few questions if you have the time…I’m new to the 2CV / Dyane world and have recently got a Dyane. Where the oil cooler tubes fit into the block it appears there is quite a lot of oil seepage, is it possible to nip up the sleeve nuts with the engine in situ but with the fan removed? I intend to ‘do’ the engine in the winter but hoping I don’t need to take it out for the oil leak but don’t want to damage the oil cooler lines. I notice you used Moly grease in general, would copper grease be ok or would it cause a reaction with the metals? Any advice would be much appreciated. John
Hi John, it is theoretically possible to tighten the sleeve nuts in situ with suitable spanners but it probably is not a good idea. There are two rubber sleeves acting as seals where the pipes push in to the block and they will probably have deteriorated through the passage of time. The nuts tend to corrode on to the pipes so when you turn them you start to twist the pipes which are thin and fragile and break easily. Even if the nuts were free, compressing old seals might not help with the oil leak and could possibly make it much worse. As for lubrication ideally you should use alu slip which is designed for alloy lubrication but I have used moly for a very long time without issue and I am sure there are loads of people that use copper grease too, although there are some who may not agree. Sorry if that all sounds too negative !
@@oldnutsgarage ..thank you for the reply to my questions, I thought it would be risky to try and tighten in situ but lived in hope. I’ll just have to bite the bullet and take the engine out and fit new seals. Thanks for the heads up. John
I am following your videos as I am rebuilding my engine. my question is I have found one of the valve spring thins to be missing, the one that covers the small oil feed hole. Is it a disaster in the making to not replace this as I am having trouble locating a new one. many thanks.
Hi I have never tried running one without, but suspect it might not be a great idea. I probably have a second hand one knocking about if you get stuck.
@@oldnutsgarage wish I had read your reply sooner as I have ordered one from burton in Holland ,£28 including a whopping £22 duty/ delivery. thanks for your kind offer all the same
It is recommended not to tighten the cylinder head studs to the torque at first to keep some asjustment. Just a slight tightening. Then bolt and tighten the intake / exhaust manifold so that the cylinder heads take their final place. Finally, tighten the studs to torque.
That's right, I think I mentioned that in the video, that Citroen recommended fitting the manifold before tightening the head nuts. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this series it is really filmed and edited great, again many thanks for preserving this valuable knowledge. I am busy dismantling my 1963 AZ 425cc 18hp engine. It is on the table, and wanted to do everything but without splitting it. It has oil leakage around the oilpump. But now, seeing your series, it isn’t that hard. Are there any concerns when it comes to the older engine compared to the newer ones? Again, many thanks. I want to make a series out of it too.
Hi, the basic layout of the earlier engines is similar to the later ones, although my hands on experience of working on them is very limited. I would love to get a hold of one to strip down for the channel. I would just go for it and pull it apart. Let me know when your videos are uploaded and thanks for watching!
@@oldnutsgarage just bought 2 spare ones, and will let you know when I create the videos. I also need to fix the centrifugal clutch which is not working. To be continued. Stay healthy and have a nice day!
@@oldnutsgarage hi there! Hope you sre keeping well. I uploaded the first two parts of the 425cc 18hp 2cv engine. Unfortunately it’s in dutch since my following is dutch. Maybe you would be able to use the subtitles. Or just enjoy the visual part of it😂👍
Hi, I just watched the video, excellent stuff ! I have just bought a 425 engine so will be following in your footsteps soon. Keep safe and I will keep watching. !
Yes, it probably is a good idea. When you get a reconditioned engine from people like Cassis they will not honour the warranty unless you do, along with a new oil pressure switch. Thanks for watching !
Hi Mark. Used your videos to rebuild my M4 602cc engine over the weekend. Thanks a million for going to the effort of filming this as a reference for diy mechanics like myself. Invaluable footage. Similar set up except I’ve no oil filter and the flat manifold. I’m looking forward to the 425cc engine rebuild, as they are very similar to the M4. Thanks again Conor
Thank you Conor, that is very kind of you and much appreciated. Glad it was of some use. I hope you get many thousands of happy miles out of your M4 !
Que fantástico!
Excelente trabalho.
I've been watching this whole series with a smile on my face throughout, a joy to watch! Look forward to doing this job myself in the near future.
Glad you liked them and thanks for taking the time to watch!
Infinitas gracias por tus trabajados videos sobre el mitico 2CV.
¡De nada y muchas gracias por vernos!
I just wish I could see the first start. Love the videos to get this far
Thanks John. The engine is the spare for my own car so I hope I don't need it too soon ! Thanks for watching!
Excellent videos, just a note, I usually leave the gudgeon pins in the freezer overnight before a rebuild, then they always seem that small bit easier to go in if they are a tight fit. Most 2CV ones just push in quite easily though, tight ones aren't so common.
Hi, leaving pins in the freezer is a good tip. I have found that genuine Citroen pins are easily fitted but after market pistons ( these ones were Breteille if I remember correctly ) are often much tighter. Thanks for watching!
Many thanks for your time and effort in putting together this excellent series of videos. I've enjoyed watching them.
Thanks Tony, very kind of you to say so, thanks for watching them !
Thoroughly enjoyable series. Many thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching it all !
One more small note about these late engines (this engine is post '86), always check the ends of those pushrods carefully for any sign of looseness, cracking or separation of the ends, it happened on batches of the later engines and became a problem, but it very rarely happened before this date.
A good tip and well worth checking for before bunging it all back together. Thanks for watching!
the cover plate behind the oil radiator that you forgot is with me in rubber and easy to remove without removing the radiator housing.
A much better idea Julien, especially for a forgetful old idiot like me who has to take things apart again!
Hello and thank you very much for your effort to make such an easy to understand and well made video series.
I have a dream of making a 'super-2cv' for myself, made to my specifications (galvanized chassis and body, GS gearbox and maybe a small turbo later on amongst other things)... this video makes the engine bit (excluding the turbo) very much less daunting... I particularly like the way good knowledge/judgement and craftsmanship more or less replaces the need to buy all new internals; one is simply replacing the parts that are worn, judged by experience and knowledge.
I hope you are safe and sound in these rather demanding times.
Kind regards from Sweden!
Hi Martin, really glad you liked the videos. Your idea for a project sounds really interesting, I hope you can fulfil your dream. Thanks for watching, it is great that someone from Sweden has enjoyed them ! Tack igen och håll dig säker!
GS gearbox did not fit a 2cv chassis, fits only in the Ami 8 super chassis who doest exists in new...the original 2cv gearbox is very strong (if in goood condition) and some BMW motorcycle fited 2cvs use it without problem (but with reinforced clutch)
Great to see, thank you. Just what I need to do to my Dyane engine that's leaking like a sieve! I'd love to see a Solex rebuild too.
Glad you liked it. Have fun with the Dyane engine and thanks for watching!
Great video again. A few questions if you have the time…I’m new to the 2CV / Dyane world and have recently got a Dyane. Where the oil cooler tubes fit into the block it appears there is quite a lot of oil seepage, is it possible to nip up the sleeve nuts with the engine in situ but with the fan removed? I intend to ‘do’ the engine in the winter but hoping I don’t need to take it out for the oil leak but don’t want to damage the oil cooler lines. I notice you used Moly grease in general, would copper grease be ok or would it cause a reaction with the metals? Any advice would be much appreciated. John
Hi John, it is theoretically possible to tighten the sleeve nuts in situ with suitable spanners but it probably is not a good idea. There are two rubber sleeves acting as seals where the pipes push in to the block and they will probably have deteriorated through the passage of time. The nuts tend to corrode on to the pipes so when you turn them you start to twist the pipes which are thin and fragile and break easily. Even if the nuts were free, compressing old seals might not help with the oil leak and could possibly make it much worse. As for lubrication ideally you should use alu slip which is designed for alloy lubrication but I have used moly for a very long time without issue and I am sure there are loads of people that use copper grease too, although there are some who may not agree. Sorry if that all sounds too negative !
@@oldnutsgarage ..thank you for the reply to my questions, I thought it would be risky to try and tighten in situ but lived in hope. I’ll just have to bite the bullet and take the engine out and fit new seals. Thanks for the heads up. John
I am following your videos as I am rebuilding my engine. my question is I have found one of the valve spring thins to be missing, the one that covers the small oil feed hole. Is it a disaster in the making to not replace this as I am having trouble locating a new one. many thanks.
Hi I have never tried running one without, but suspect it might not be a great idea. I probably have a second hand one knocking about if you get stuck.
@@oldnutsgarage wish I had read your reply sooner as I have ordered one from burton in Holland ,£28 including a whopping £22 duty/ delivery. thanks for your kind offer all the same
Yes please to the carburettor video! And how to set everything right.
Thanks for watching, I hope to get the carb video sorted out soon.
It is recommended not to tighten the cylinder head studs to the torque at first to keep some asjustment. Just a slight tightening. Then bolt and tighten the intake / exhaust manifold so that the cylinder heads take their final place. Finally, tighten the studs to torque.
That's right, I think I mentioned that in the video, that Citroen recommended fitting the manifold before tightening the head nuts. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this series it is really filmed and edited great, again many thanks for preserving this valuable knowledge. I am busy dismantling my 1963 AZ 425cc 18hp engine. It is on the table, and wanted to do everything but without splitting it. It has oil leakage around the oilpump. But now, seeing your series, it isn’t that hard. Are there any concerns when it comes to the older engine compared to the newer ones? Again, many thanks. I want to make a series out of it too.
Hi, the basic layout of the earlier engines is similar to the later ones, although my hands on experience of working on them is very limited. I would love to get a hold of one to strip down for the channel. I would just go for it and pull it apart. Let me know when your videos are uploaded and thanks for watching!
@@oldnutsgarage just bought 2 spare ones, and will let you know when I create the videos. I also need to fix the centrifugal clutch which is not working. To be continued. Stay healthy and have a nice day!
Excellent, really looking forward to those !
@@oldnutsgarage hi there! Hope you sre keeping well. I uploaded the first two parts of the 425cc 18hp 2cv engine. Unfortunately it’s in dutch since my following is dutch. Maybe you would be able to use the subtitles. Or just enjoy the visual part of it😂👍
Hi, I just watched the video, excellent stuff ! I have just bought a 425 engine so will be following in your footsteps soon. Keep safe and I will keep watching. !
is it advisable to fit a new oil filler / breather ?
Yes, it probably is a good idea. When you get a reconditioned engine from people like Cassis they will not honour the warranty unless you do, along with a new oil pressure switch. Thanks for watching !
You could just sell it to me, And you would have another engine to play with Great videos have
enjoyed all of them , 👍👍
Thanks John, very much appreciated and thanks very much for watching!