As these aluminium tubes appear to be prone to corrosion, surely it would be far better to make a set from stainless steel tube, quite easily obtainable on ebay, and only requiring the ends cleaning up on your Lathe, they would never again cause a problem. Chris B.
To be fair Chris I think these heads are late model ones when quality seems to have dropped a bit. I worked on a late 60s engine not that long ago and the tubes were perfect on that. I wish I had a lathe to clean anything up on to be honest. The only other problem with stainless is it would not be pliable enough to be rolled into the head as per original fitment so you would have to rely on some chemical assistance to secure and seal them to the head, although I am sure Loctite would have something suitable in their range.
@@oldnutsgarage I think the way to go on the stainless tubes would be to have a short counterbore in from the top, use your bush retainer, then put a fillet of silicon sealer in the counter bore, that would give a better seal than just swaging the tubes into the head bore, , how are the tubes sealed into the crankcase? Chris B
Yep, worth a try as modern sealants are really good. The tubes are sealed by external rubber spectacle seals which are kept under pressure by springs which in turn sit on washers which butt up against a machined section on the tube, so stainless tubes would have to be machined at that end as well to suit.
@@oldnutsgarage I noticed that the crankcase end was machines down, probably to give extra clearance when assembling the head with tubes attached into the crankcase holes, I made stainless steel pushrod tubes for my Vincent, they have a flange swaged onto the end to push up against a seal, it was surprisingly easy to turn over the flange after making a simple jib to hold/support the tube, very easy that is if you have a Lathe, you must get one! Chris B.
Thanks Alan, but I cannot claim any credit for it, as the process was explained to me by another 2cv enthusiast some time ago. It does seem to wok though. Thanks again for watching!
at 15:56, VERY cunning indeed! Now, every plumber (the ones for buildings) in your neighbourhood will have a proper tube expander (much like the Citroen tool) that fits those pushrod tubes. I find both OEM and aftermarket tubers very, very flimsy, and expensive too. So what I did was to take a suitable piece of thicker tubing and mill both ends to the correct size on a lathe. Costs pennies and some beer for the friend with the lathe.
I like your idea of stronger tube as the originals are indeed very lightweight. My next door neighbour has a lathe , I must ask him to try and make some for me. Thank you again for watching!
@@oldnutsgarage Like your video's....the thing is to make them on a lathe........my late father did this........making the first 105mm the right original size........than just a bit bigger.........when you get them in........just push it to the end......never have to measure it again.......it just sits correct..........My father used to say stupid french........I drove BMW boxer motor bikes........build more to my father's liking.......no creazy heads......just use allen bolts.............like your tube expander...!!!
Thank you very much sir I am facing the same problem. I stupidly dropped a cylinder head and I have to replace the pushrods. I never would have thought of using expansion bolts. This is the missing link. Now I will be able to take the plunge ! All teh best from Brussels
Hi - great video! You have been a real help with my 2CV project - already from the start :) I´ve been having a leak which I though came from the tubes - but after viewing this video I realized it came from the tube end - where it enters the cylinder head. My guess is it has been leaking from the very first day - guessing by the amount of oil leftovers on the head and surroundings - 1990 model. At 20:30 you are wondering if anyone had tried high temperature silicone sealant around the gap between the tube and the head - best suggestion ever! I have now tried this, just a smear around the tube - and the leak is gone! Guess when the tubes are inserted originally with the sealer, the cylinder heads draw most of the sealer and the tube enters the head almost dry. Would be best to add some sealer from the other end so that the tube has at least some sealer when entering the head.
Glad you liked the video and thanks for the information on the sealant. Really great that it worked. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching!
Hello again, your videos are fantastic, I am still struggling to fit the gearbox and the engine in my Citroen 3cv, I have a doubt that nobody talks about, pistons with polished heads vs. standard without polishing, you can see the benefit of not sticking carbon on the piston head? Greetings from Argentina!
Greetings to everyone in Argentina too ! I think there may be several opinions on polishing pistons. In theory carbon build up might take longer but it will still happen. Gas flow might be changed very slightly as well but again not for very long. I do not know anyone who has tried it to be honest.
@@oldnutsgarage 😁 I had to do it the hard way ... my kit of pistons with cylinders was sold with manufacturing faults, it did not have the arrows that indicated the position, the pistons had a lot of roughness, excessive for my eye, call the factory and they tell me Yes, there was a problem with the manufacturing and the serial number confirmed it, but the replacement period was a few months .. the Factory Engineer at least very kindly explained to me how to measure the pistons and find out which is the correct position So to be able to solve it, by the way I learned something. When I start my engine we will see what changes I notice, the cylinder heads, I also cleaned them because they had hard carbon from 1974, I sent them to make new ones too. Hopefully the engine will last many more years.
The genuine type tool is sold by a company in Belgium, I cannot remember their name but it should come up in Google. The bodge tool is just an anchor bolt which should be available in a decent hardware store / builders merchants.
A Lot of rather quiet mumbling off camera going on here but don't think I missed anything important. With the tubes out it would have been a good time to face off/ lap in the head with a spare barrel. I know it can be done with the tubes in but you have to have a cut down barrel for clearance. Comment? I think that this is probably a spare head for the shelf rather than one which is going to be pressed into service but it made for a good video. Thanks.
You are completely correct, it is a spare which I will be using later on ( possibly much ) for a second engine build I am doing. The face of the head is fine though, no pitting, so it doesn't really need lapping, but as you say, this would have been the ideal time to do it if it was needed. I do have a cut down barrel but it is much easier with the tubes out of the way. The volume issue was due to me forgetting to plug the external mic in when I stuck the camera back on the tripod! Thanks again for watching!
![โรงเรียนห้ามรัก โดนจับได้ตาย...!! [เอิร์นไดเม่]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4u02Sbr556Q/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you, Sir!
You are welcome!
good video thanks
Glad you liked it, thanks for watching!
As these aluminium tubes appear to be prone to corrosion, surely it would be far better to make a set from stainless steel tube, quite easily obtainable on ebay, and only requiring the ends cleaning up on your Lathe, they would never again cause a problem. Chris B.
To be fair Chris I think these heads are late model ones when quality seems to have dropped a bit. I worked on a late 60s engine not that long ago and the tubes were perfect on that. I wish I had a lathe to clean anything up on to be honest. The only other problem with stainless is it would not be pliable enough to be rolled into the head as per original fitment so you would have to rely on some chemical assistance to secure and seal them to the head, although I am sure Loctite would have something suitable in their range.
@@oldnutsgarage I think the way to go on the stainless tubes would be to have a short counterbore in from the top, use your bush retainer, then put a fillet of silicon sealer in the counter bore, that would give a better seal than just swaging the tubes into the head bore, , how are the tubes sealed into the crankcase? Chris B
Yep, worth a try as modern sealants are really good. The tubes are sealed by external rubber spectacle seals which are kept under pressure by springs which in turn sit on washers which butt up against a machined section on the tube, so stainless tubes would have to be machined at that end as well to suit.
@@oldnutsgarage I noticed that the crankcase end was machines down, probably to give extra clearance when assembling the head with tubes attached into the crankcase holes, I made stainless steel pushrod tubes for my Vincent, they have a flange swaged onto the end to push up against a seal, it was surprisingly easy to turn over the flange after making a simple jib to hold/support the tube, very easy that is if you have a Lathe, you must get one! Chris B.
I would love one Chris but not sure I would pick up the necessary skills, old dog, new tricks etc. Which Vincent do you have?
Love the use of expansion bolts to expand the tubes. Very creative solution to a vexing problem. All the best, Alan
Thanks Alan, but I cannot claim any credit for it, as the process was explained to me by another 2cv enthusiast some time ago. It does seem to wok though. Thanks again for watching!
at 15:56, VERY cunning indeed! Now, every plumber (the ones for buildings) in your neighbourhood will have a proper tube expander (much like the Citroen tool) that fits those pushrod tubes. I find both OEM and aftermarket tubers very, very flimsy, and expensive too. So what I did was to take a suitable piece of thicker tubing and mill both ends to the correct size on a lathe. Costs pennies and some beer for the friend with the lathe.
I like your idea of stronger tube as the originals are indeed very lightweight. My next door neighbour has a lathe , I must ask him to try and make some for me. Thank you again for watching!
@@oldnutsgarage Like your video's....the thing is to make them on a lathe........my late father did this........making the first 105mm the right original size........than just a bit bigger.........when you get them in........just push it to the end......never have to measure it again.......it just sits correct..........My father used to say stupid french........I drove BMW boxer motor bikes........build more to my father's liking.......no creazy heads......just use allen bolts.............like your tube expander...!!!
Brilliant, I have the same corroded tubes to replace. Thanks a million for showing us how it’s done.👍
Glad you liked it. I must stress again that it is not the "correct" way to do it, but it seems to work. Thanks for watching!
Thank you very much sir I am facing the same problem. I stupidly dropped a cylinder head and I have to replace the pushrods. I never would have thought of using expansion bolts. This is the missing link. Now I will be able to take the plunge !
All teh best from Brussels
Give it a go, it is not the correct way of doing the job, but it seems to work ok. Good luck with it and thanks for watching !
Hi - great video! You have been a real help with my 2CV project - already from the start :) I´ve been having a leak which I though came from the tubes - but after viewing this video I realized it came from the tube end - where it enters the cylinder head. My guess is it has been leaking from the very first day - guessing by the amount of oil leftovers on the head and surroundings - 1990 model. At 20:30 you are wondering if anyone had tried high temperature silicone sealant around the gap between the tube and the head - best suggestion ever! I have now tried this, just a smear around the tube - and the leak is gone! Guess when the tubes are inserted originally with the sealer, the cylinder heads draw most of the sealer and the tube enters the head almost dry. Would be best to add some sealer from the other end so that the tube has at least some sealer when entering the head.
Glad you liked the video and thanks for the information on the sealant. Really great that it worked. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching!
Hello again, your videos are fantastic, I am still struggling to fit the gearbox and the engine in my Citroen 3cv, I have a doubt that nobody talks about, pistons with polished heads vs. standard without polishing, you can see the benefit of not sticking carbon on the piston head?
Greetings from Argentina!
Greetings to everyone in Argentina too ! I think there may be several opinions on polishing pistons. In theory carbon build up might take longer but it will still happen. Gas flow might be changed very slightly as well but again not for very long. I do not know anyone who has tried it to be honest.
@@oldnutsgarage 😁 I had to do it the hard way ... my kit of pistons with cylinders was sold with manufacturing faults, it did not have the arrows that indicated the position, the pistons had a lot of roughness, excessive for my eye, call the factory and they tell me Yes, there was a problem with the manufacturing and the serial number confirmed it, but the replacement period was a few months .. the Factory Engineer at least very kindly explained to me how to measure the pistons and find out which is the correct position So to be able to solve it, by the way I learned something.
When I start my engine we will see what changes I notice, the cylinder heads, I also cleaned them because they had hard carbon from 1974, I sent them to make new ones too.
Hopefully the engine will last many more years.
Sounds like you have a lot of extra work there. Good luck with the build and enjoy it !
Could you please tell me what are these two tubes for ?
Where can I buy this tool?
The genuine type tool is sold by a company in Belgium, I cannot remember their name but it should come up in Google. The bodge tool is just an anchor bolt which should be available in a decent hardware store / builders merchants.
@@oldnutsgarage thank uou
A Lot of rather quiet mumbling off camera going on here but don't think I missed anything important. With the tubes out it would have been a good time to face off/ lap in the head with a spare barrel. I know it can be done with the tubes in but you have to have a cut down barrel for clearance. Comment? I think that this is probably a spare head for the shelf rather than one which is going to be pressed into service but it made for a good video. Thanks.
You are completely correct, it is a spare which I will be using later on ( possibly much ) for a second engine build I am doing. The face of the head is fine though, no pitting, so it doesn't really need lapping, but as you say, this would have been the ideal time to do it if it was needed. I do have a cut down barrel but it is much easier with the tubes out of the way. The volume issue was due to me forgetting to plug the external mic in when I stuck the camera back on the tripod! Thanks again for watching!