I really love the way you always explain why you do what you do. Many other pros don’t explain why; they just tell how. Thanks for helping us ordinary DIYers.
The problem is 80% of the time his advice is really bad. He is not a professional. Advising you to use 220 grit sandpaper on a deck is bad advice. 80 grit is recommended, 150 tops. Want it to look like a DIY did the project, follow his advice. Want to work smarter instead of harder and make it look like a pro did it, follow someone else's advice.
I have a couple good days of weather this week and it’s my first time dealing the deck since we got it built end of last year! I think after watching this it should be easy! How long does it take to dry? Just want to make sure I do it before the rain comes next day.
I bought a house which had a stained wooden deck and the floor stain had mostly worn off with a patchy look! No stain I ever saw on any wooden deck floor ever held up for more than a couple of years at most! The rails were mostly still stained. I used a pressure washer to carefully remove 95% of the remaining stain on the deck floor and never stained it again but did stain the rails after carefully pressure cleaning them. Two coats lasted three years and only about 10 % flaked off! Still had a gallon of the same colour stain and cleaned it, then put a new coat of stain on it. The deck is now 17 years old! When it has rotted out, I will replace it with 1.5 x 1.5 ‘ concrete patio slabs!! If you clean and stain your deck every couple of years, the stain alone will cost a few hundred dollars including the brushes, rollers, clean up and that’s with you doing all the work! I am now convinced all that effort and money significantly extends the life of it! Over its life of 20-25 years you will have spent thousands! Concrete will likely out live this retired man and very little maintenance required! Don’t care if the neighbours don’t approve!!
Good points. But concrete also fails… being hard to repair and hard to dispose of after your good idea are long and gone. Both deck or concrete patio can last just as long as one or the other under perfect conditions and perfect construction. for those conditions…. Motor oil used or new do a make a great stain and seal for both concrete and wood decks!!
So confused, are you for or against staining? Also, much much cheaper to maintain a deck then to shell out thousands of dollars for concrete. Even if you have to reapply stain every 3 years, in 20-25 years you're talking about a couple of hundred dollars vs thousands.
Just over 20 years ago I used a garden sprayer to apply Thompson’Water Seal to my new deck. Unfortunately after one winter the surface became black as if moisture was trapped beneath the sealer and created mold. I wasn’t aware of penetrating seal back then so ever since I just power washed my deck every spring. It’s basically solid except where we have built in planters. The deck boards ( 2x6 pressure treated lumber) beneath and adjacent to the planters have rotted through due to continuous dampness from watering the flowers. Next DIY project replacing all my deck boards. Thanks for the help Jeff. Love your work!
Sealer-schmeiller, in all the decks I stained or painted over 30 years, nothing really lasted more than a year as far as the whole deck. Right now my deck stain is 4 years old and still looks pretty good ( I used motor oil!).
About to seal the deck I built last year using all of your DIY techniques and then this video popped up. I will have to be taking a trip to Randall's soon. Thank you for everything through the years Jeff!! Always know I can rely on good tricks from someone who knows our climate here in the Capital region
Ah, I really wish the previous homeowner had known all this! We moved in in 2019 and they had just stained the deck with opaque stain before putting the house on the market. The next year, the deck was peeling and looked ghastly! All because they didn’t prep it properly,… at least they were consistent. They also painted the kitchen cabinets with latex over oil - NO primer!! Joys of buying a fixer… but we’re in the GTA, so what else can you do if you aren’t a millionaire?
just spoke with Heather today at C2, was so knowledgeable and an absolute pleasure. She actually has used the product herself and can speak from personal experience. As soon as our new deck wood will receive it, this is the product we will be using. Thank you, Jeff! 🤗🦋
Have you used any other shades besides sugar maple? I'm staining a dock for my brother and he wants it as close to the natural pine shade but we can't do clear due to weathering. Going to order with your code. Love your videos.
Thanks for pointing us at C2 Guard. I spent a lot of time trying to figure out what product to use to stain/protect my deck.. This product looks great!
idk man... i did this exact process... i must have messed up somewhere but my stain starting rubbing out the next year... I even used a more coarse sand paper to really get some penetration of the stain...
I hate to be a negative here,however, I think this is far better than what most people do, but the first mistake made here is doing it in sunlight, that will fail in the year 100%, a solid oil would obviously hide the beautiful wood, but it’s more durable, there’s also vertical and horizontal stains. Transparent or semi transparent, waterbased can be applied over itself if it’s still damp and for sure it would need 2 coats. A better move would be to resand and reapply chances are you wouldn’t get much more than a year out of it again though. Nice, informative channel, lots of good stuff. Keep up the good work.
Our original wood deck was terrible with boards splitting, warping and treatment quickly failing in the hot southern weather. Finally gave up and re-planked the whole thing with Fiberon decking (I guess it's similar to Trex, but has a hard outer coating). Renovated the whole thing with a buddy over a weekend. Used a "hidden" type fastener so no screws show on the face of the boards. Since then, no work, no fuss, pretty much no maintenance and it's been almost 10 years. I'd never go back to a traditional wood deck again. (I have no affiliation with that company, just a very happy customer).
You need to warn people that the sprayer method isn't so great if there's no way to block overspray. It gets everywhere. Doing a pergola and had to stop.
@@RANDALLFOSTER-g6s What @Scott040877 is getting at is even with the sense of and understanding of overspray, it always seems more than expected, even when it's expected.
Your technique is good 👍 However… The best way to stain a deck: 1. If sanding… use 40 / 80 grit (220 is a smooth fine finish grit used for interior projects, never used for exterior deck lumber) 2. Allow the deck to dry & Always use a moisture meter… 12% or less is ideal using oil 3. Apply a deep penetrating oil based semi-transparent stain like Pecan, Chestnut, Walnut… This will provide you the best appearance & longevity hands down… Period!!!
@Home RenoVision DIY In an older video with the cedar privacy fence you were using Osmo as the finish. How do you like/compare the C2 Guard to the Osmo?
I bought some stain at habitat for humanity , (20.00 per gallon) one gallon red wood , one Mahogany and one natural ....kept the red solids , little of the solids from the mahogany , left the brown natural out of the third , poured off the rest of the oils out into a bigger container (boxing them together...performed a test to make sure properly obsorbs and dries.....everything working , I proceeded ....looks beautiful!
Sanding with 220 grit paper and a power sander will actually CREATE mill glaze, not get rid of it! Nothing finer than 80 or 100 grit should be used on a deck. This is standard instructions given on many manufacturer's labels. Washing the deck with a deck cleaner containing oxalic acid will also get rid of mill glaze.
Hi Jeff, if staining a somewhat weathered deck, would you recommend power washing it first followed by sanding? Thanks for all your videos btw, one of the best renovation channels on TH-cam!!
@@barkleyhunt3227 , it makes no sense to try to hand-sand an existing and weathered deck with cupped and warped boards, especially if it's larger than 300 or 400 sq feet. In most cases, a light powerwashing is the only practical way to remove dirt and algae and prepare for stain. I replanked and stained my large deck (1k sq ft) with pressure-treated wood 6 years ago, and it was overdue for cleaning and restaining; I tried cleaning it with a rented industrial floor cleaner with a big, coarse rotating brush but that wasn't sufficient (and hard to control) and so I did end up using a small pressure washer on it, which was kinda slow but worked well. After drying for 3 days it took stain extremely well, soaking up a semi transparent stain like a sponge, so that I had to go back and forth over it several times. I'm 65 and If I had tried to individually sand every damn deck plank I wouldn't be able to walk for weeks afterwards! If the lumber quality is any good it should be able to withstand a light pressure washing. Now this might not be true if you're using Redwood and certainly wouldn't be true for Cedar ( I scrubbed my Cedar siding with a brush on a pole before re-staining the house), but for regular pressure treated planking, in shouldn't be an issue, as that shit's pretty tough. PS, For the benefit of the guy who originally asked a question about power washing, I would not use any commercially sold deck cleaners, most of which are nothing but overpriced bleach. Chlorine bleach is terribly harsh to wood fibers and one of the by-products of bleach plus cellulose is dioxin which is highly carcinogenic. I use a 1/4 cup of Oxyclean crystals dissolved in a gallon of water with a couple dabs of dish soap. Spray that on the deck 1st before you power wash it. It's gentle, nontoxic and virtually harmless and it won't kill your plants or your lawn.
@goodun2974 my thoughts exactly on getting in your hands and knees and sanding a deck that size. Only an idiot would do that with a palm sander. That's nuts. Rent a commercial sander at the least. Fascinating about bleach and dioxin. Who knew!?! A lot of peeps and manufacturers recommend the use of oxalic acid first. Apparently opens up the pores? Any opinion on that?
@@barkleyhunt3227a belt sander🤣 that’s absolutely some of the worst advice you could give somebody. You don’t want anything that goes in one full spin motion for this stuff. Hello lot of work and uneven boards. Use an oscillating orbital or oscillating only.
Jeff, would you consider doing a meet & greet in Ottawa? I can't believe I've been watching your stuff for years and you've been pumping content out from my neck of the woods! Cheers from Cumberland
Cut, STAIN, lay, stain again - not cut, lay, stain. None of your open ends are even touched by stain - and the end grain is the part of of a board which absorbs the most water when it rains, and you’re not even touching them with the “penetrating sealer:, not to mention the other sides of the boards you can’t see, and the edges which are close together. Every board has six sides - face, back, edge one, edge two, end one, end two - and you are “protecting” only one of the six sides - and let’s face it, you are applying the product to the only side which will dry out quickly by sun and wind. The other edges (which are in the dark, in humidity, away from the wind, and will remain damp for days after rain) are 100% raw, untreated timber, and your “rot” will start from where you can’t even see it until it has destroyed the boards from the back and worked its way forward.
I apply automatic transmission fluid to cedar/fir fencing with a pesticide sprayer.Takes minimal time and soaks right in. Waterproofs, protects and keeps bugs away. Not to mention it is the cheapest stain/sealer compared to stains and it really brings out the grain and adds great colour.
@@Sandra-Armstrong yes automatic transmission fluid will seal and waterproof wood, plus its colour enhances and brings out the natural Grains in cedar, fir and spruce since they all share a red/orange hue. Its must cheaper than stain too. Added benefit bugs dont like it either so repeals pests. This is old school method which works well and is cost effective. Every so Many years you have to Reapply the fluid but just as stains do to.
From a friend and who's a retired paint chemist for one of the biggest names in paint (not PPG, btw): PPG's ProLuxe Stains (not the 'single-coat' stuff, SDR or something), formulated by Sikkens, far out-performed all other stains on the market in an objective comparison a few years ago. That's what he used on his own 30-year-old deck just last year.
@@ItchyKneeSon I mean, not really. It's more about what is designed for easy maintenance, e.g. can be cleaned and recoated over itself without fully stripping the surface. What kind of maintenance do you want ? Penetrating oils just wear off the surface, acrylic coatings are film forming and will blister peel and check which presents a whole other set of issues. Plenty of oil penetrating stains can't be stacked on top of themselves. Silkens srd is going to burn off in a year the same as bm arborcoat Armstrong Clark Cabot penofin...what have you
@@matthoughton1006wtf does that mean though? "Maintained"? So every single year you have to maintain it. Re-stain it every single year? Please to be explaining. I would honestly greatly appreciate it.
Hey Jeff, love the Chanel I watch daily… just a question… what is the difference between c2 and the Osmo UV-Protection-Oil that you used on your farmhouse deck? Also which is better ? Pros ? cons ? Thanks cheers
What about the wood exposed in the Crack between planks? Also, what about the underside? I was considering at least treating the underside before installation?
Hey Jeff, thanks for this video. I am building my deck and I ordered the product you recommended, but C2 paint didn't seem to honor the 20% discount when I reviewed the CC charge. I used the link in the video so I don't understand. I have emailed them but not heard back from them yet. Anyway, thanks for the series of videos, very helpful. Cheers.
I’m surprised by the washing the day of. I get it, but that was a lot of water. Heck, my plan was power wash and scrub weekend 1 and then stain weekend 2 (after dealing with new dirt)
Here's a fun little project that can be a multi-year endeavor similar to Project Farm and Repair Geek's comparisons/reviews: Make a little deck with common lumber, treated and not, and use various products in various applications and just let them sit out in the elements, re-coating some every 1-5 years, and doing nothing with others. Could be a fun one.
What video were you watching? He was literally on his hands and knees sanding the entire surface (and vertical surfaces) and then cleaning and scrubbing and sanding the spots you missed and then..... This looks like an extraordinary pain in the ass. That would destroy my knees but would be brutal for anyone with a little palm sander. I would rent a commercial sander in .5 seconds (like he indicated). I don't think people realize the impact until they experience being in their knees for that long. And I have great knee pads too.
I am very skeptical that this will increase the longevity of a cedar deck. Even if the product helped, you would have to coat all 6 sides prior to assembling. We had two cedar decks; one stained and regularly restained with a penetrating oil based stain and one left natural. The natural one lasted about 5 years longer. Today's cedar will start decaying at some of the board ends in about 10 years.
Jeff, I've used a few (over several years) solid stains on an old, weathered deck. They never last. I see this as a polyurethane stain treatment. How is this not a "coating" on top of a deck and that it won't peal within a year? I'm at a point it may be time to rip up the deck to put "new" deck boards down. Will this last more than a year or should I replace my deck?
I missed the part about waiting every 3 minutes and re-staining? How many times after 3 minutes do you repeat? Also when you finish for the day, will that be it, or do you re-apply a 2nd coat a couple days later? Thanks.
I just finished this job -- I dumped the product into a paint sprayer, attached the compressor hose, and went to town. Overspray everywhere and I don't care. It was awesome and took less than 15 minutes for the whole deck.
question: is it wise to thin down the first coat of an oil base deck finish so that it will soak in the deepest, AND then apply a second coat without thinning at all? this is what I do sometimes, and I may be incorrect.
I need help with an unfinished mahogany door that got drenched with rain during delivery. The stains are dark. I am wanting it to be a dark walnut stain but am afraid the water stains will show thru. Could you possibly upload a video on how to repair and stain water stained wood? Love your videos.
Follow the directions on the can and apply C2 Guard to DRY wood. We are finding this product most effective so far. Prewetting your wood will cause the product to fail. After watching this tutorial, we prewet a small area and applied it there first and noted it's failure to bead water. We contacted C2. To correct this problem we were advised to apply a 3rd coat to that spot and thankfully that solved the problem. We applied 2 coats of the product to dry wood on the rest of the deck according to instructions and it's performing well.
Hey I stained my deck with a different product. Well it’s peeling in less than a year. If I strip, sand and clean my deck could I apply this c2 guard without a problem? Thanks
Thanks for the vid! I just applied this product to two of my decks. After letting them dry (two coats each) the finish looks faded. Is it okay to do another coat after the product has completely dried?
I have a 12x18 pressure treated wood deck that was built 22 months ago with white vinyl railings. I have not been able to seal the deck until now. Would a power wash with deck cleaner be enough or should I also sand? Is the C2 guard a clear sealant and do you think the Olympic Maximum clear sealant to be comparable? Like to know what you think.
We're big fans of the channel and so appreciate all your tips and tricks! This video was particularly timely as we just moved in to our newly built home and need to seal the raw wood on our front porch. However, when I tried to apply the coupon code after adding 4 gallons of C2 Guard for Wood it said the code wasn't valid for the items in the cart. Any idea why? Thanks a bunch!
Wait how long do wait for the 2nd coat..im all about ready seal..good proof….and with spraying aren’t you getting it all over the place withought tarps..is that good proof
Is there any decking under the furniture? If there is, why did you not stain it first to help prevent the possibility of scratching on other parts of the deck when the furniture is put into place later? Or having a non stained part of the deck later if you decide to move the furniture around and the deck under the furniture has had a chance to weather without any protection?
I've heard you want to sand with no finer than 100 or 120. Finer than that and it keeps the wood from absorbing the stain as well. This is something I've read many places, is that just one of those "common misconceptions" or is it correct?
What about a deck that has NEVER been stained. If it has it doesn't look it! Boards are bleached out. No rot though. Does this sealer come in other stains besides clear? Can you stain over this with a darker stain if you wanted?
I love watching your videos!! I have a porch that has a floor made with marine plywood. It's been installed for about 25 years. Can I use this c2 on my old marine plywood?
Would you also recommend this for a fifteen-year-old pressure-treated deck that has never been treated? It is now completely grey but it seems to be in good shape. Thanks!! 🙂
Yes! You want all sides to absorb moisture as similarly as possible. If it rains and then the sun dries the top surface, the other surfaces will still be wet and will not repel moisture the same way and vice versa after a light quick rain
Didn’t catch what you said about an old deck that was previously stained. Mine has been worn down and looks like old gray wood. Can I give it a sanding and apply stain as you have here or do I need to do something more thorough?
it looks really easy to apply...my only concern would be will hold up in south florida like it does up north? we have 100 degree days all summer long here
Thanks for sharing! I Just got my balcony installed with Canadian Red Cedar of high grade quality. Does it still needs to be sealed or could it wait after a few years time ? I love the natural look but maybe as a prevention mechanism it might be a smart thing to do. Does the wood need to cure after a certain amount of time after the installation ? Thanks again!
Hey Jeff, In another video you recommended the Thompson's water seal. Now you have me confused which one should I use? We have moved into a house which has a 5ish years old deck, I've cleaned it and I don't want to color.
cedar and redwood is expensive. What are your thoughts on using douglas fir for deck boards for a deck? I actually like the look better, but is cedar or redwood stronger, even if I do an oil based sealer on the douglas fir?
So, questions... the wood doesn't need to be completely dry before putting the sealer over it? And, all this wood you used was cedar? Can you tell me why you chose that wood?
To bad they don't have a product for existing decks. The first "install" for my deck my contractor really hosed the treatment, and now I need to get it back to good. PNW is brutal on exposed wood as well. Thanks for the video.
Great video!! I live an area that never seems to get 4-5 nice days in a row without rain...now that it is actually nice out the humidity is too high to stain...if I wait for the "ideal" staining conditions I will never get it done...any advice? Thanks
I really love the way you always explain why you do what you do. Many other pros don’t explain why; they just tell how. Thanks for helping us ordinary DIYers.
Ya, the WHY is the wisdom.
The problem is 80% of the time his advice is really bad. He is not a professional. Advising you to use 220 grit sandpaper on a deck is bad advice. 80 grit is recommended, 150 tops. Want it to look like a DIY did the project, follow his advice. Want to work smarter instead of harder and make it look like a pro did it, follow someone else's advice.
I have a couple good days of weather this week and it’s my first time dealing the deck since we got it built end of last year! I think after watching this it should be easy! How long does it take to dry? Just want to make sure I do it before the rain comes next day.
@@billwilliams2120 nailed it.
I like that you kept the deck in a natural wood color. Looks nice. Thanks.
I bought a house which had a stained wooden deck and the floor stain had mostly worn off with a patchy look! No stain I ever saw on any wooden deck floor ever held up for more than a couple of years at most! The rails were mostly still stained. I used a pressure washer to carefully remove 95% of the remaining stain on the deck floor and never stained it again but did stain the rails after carefully pressure cleaning them. Two coats lasted three years and only about 10 % flaked off! Still had a gallon of the same colour stain and cleaned it, then put a new coat of stain on it. The deck is now 17 years old! When it has rotted out, I will replace it with 1.5 x 1.5 ‘ concrete patio slabs!! If you clean and stain your deck every couple of years, the stain alone will cost a few hundred dollars including the brushes, rollers, clean up and that’s with you doing all the work! I am now convinced all that effort and money significantly extends the life of it! Over its life of 20-25 years you will have spent thousands! Concrete will likely out live this retired man and very little maintenance required! Don’t care if the neighbours don’t approve!!
Good points. But concrete also fails… being hard to repair and hard to dispose of after your good idea are long and gone. Both deck or concrete patio can last just as long as one or the other under perfect conditions and perfect construction. for those conditions…. Motor oil used or new do a make a great stain and seal for both concrete and wood decks!!
So confused, are you for or against staining? Also, much much cheaper to maintain a deck then to shell out thousands of dollars for concrete. Even if you have to reapply stain every 3 years, in 20-25 years you're talking about a couple of hundred dollars vs thousands.
Is staining making it waterproof? Even if it is for 2-3 years, does it protect the wood from 3 month long monsoon rain every year?
Just over 20 years ago I used a garden sprayer to apply Thompson’Water Seal to my new deck. Unfortunately after one winter the surface became black as if moisture was trapped beneath the sealer and created mold.
I wasn’t aware of penetrating seal back then so ever since I just power washed my deck every spring. It’s basically solid except where we have built in planters. The deck boards ( 2x6 pressure treated lumber) beneath and adjacent to the planters have rotted through due to continuous dampness from watering the flowers.
Next DIY project replacing all my deck boards.
Thanks for the help Jeff. Love your work!
Jeff, every time I'm about to tackle a project, I swear you're posting a video answering the exact questions I had! amazing!!
Cheers, happy to help!
Sealer-schmeiller, in all the decks I stained or painted over 30 years, nothing really lasted more than a year as far as the whole deck. Right now my deck stain is 4 years old and still looks pretty good ( I used motor oil!).
Used or new?
I really appreciate the way you make all of these projects so understandable and accessible.
About to seal the deck I built last year using all of your DIY techniques and then this video popped up. I will have to be taking a trip to Randall's soon. Thank you for everything through the years Jeff!! Always know I can rely on good tricks from someone who knows our climate here in the Capital region
How did it go? What do you think of the stuff so far? I''ll be doing the same this year
Ah, I really wish the previous homeowner had known all this! We moved in in 2019 and they had just stained the deck with opaque stain before putting the house on the market. The next year, the deck was peeling and looked ghastly! All because they didn’t prep it properly,… at least they were consistent. They also painted the kitchen cabinets with latex over oil - NO primer!! Joys of buying a fixer… but we’re in the GTA, so what else can you do if you aren’t a millionaire?
Using the sprayer will be time saver. Don’t think I’ve ever seen anyone do it like that before. 💪🏾👏🏾
You just saved me so much time with using that sprayer. i never thought about doing that. Thank you
just spoke with Heather today at C2, was so knowledgeable and an absolute pleasure. She actually has used the product herself and can speak from personal experience.
As soon as our new deck wood will receive it, this is the product we will be using.
Thank you, Jeff! 🤗🦋
Have you used any other shades besides sugar maple? I'm staining a dock for my brother and he wants it as close to the natural pine shade but we can't do clear due to weathering. Going to order with your code. Love your videos.
Thanks for pointing us at C2 Guard. I spent a lot of time trying to figure out what product to use to stain/protect my deck.. This product looks great!
JUST built a deck and was wondering how to stain it. Then you posted this! Thank you!
idk man... i did this exact process... i must have messed up somewhere but my stain starting rubbing out the next year... I even used a more coarse sand paper to really get some penetration of the stain...
I hate to be a negative here,however, I think this is far better than what most people do, but the first mistake made here is doing it in sunlight, that will fail in the year 100%, a solid oil would obviously hide the beautiful wood, but it’s more durable, there’s also vertical and horizontal stains. Transparent or semi transparent, waterbased can be applied over itself if it’s still damp and for sure it would need 2 coats. A better move would be to resand and reapply chances are you wouldn’t get much more than a year out of it again though. Nice, informative channel, lots of good stuff. Keep up the good work.
Our original wood deck was terrible with boards splitting, warping and treatment quickly failing in the hot southern weather. Finally gave up and re-planked the whole thing with Fiberon decking (I guess it's similar to Trex, but has a hard outer coating). Renovated the whole thing with a buddy over a weekend. Used a "hidden" type fastener so no screws show on the face of the boards. Since then, no work, no fuss, pretty much no maintenance and it's been almost 10 years. I'd never go back to a traditional wood deck again. (I have no affiliation with that company, just a very happy customer).
Looking at the privacy fence, then the low row of windows above that look straight down to the deck.
The neighborhood looks hellish to me.
You need to warn people that the sprayer method isn't so great if there's no way to block overspray. It gets everywhere. Doing a pergola and had to stop.
Common sense would tell you that. Why go into any project with no thought about the consequences of every action?
@@RANDALLFOSTER-g6s What @Scott040877 is getting at is even with the sense of and understanding of overspray, it always seems more than expected, even when it's expected.
Your technique is good 👍
However…
The best way to stain a deck:
1. If sanding… use 40 / 80 grit (220 is a smooth fine finish grit used for interior projects, never used for exterior deck lumber)
2. Allow the deck to dry &
Always use a moisture meter… 12% or less is ideal using oil
3. Apply a deep penetrating oil based semi-transparent stain like Pecan, Chestnut, Walnut…
This will provide you the best appearance & longevity hands down…
Period!!!
@Home RenoVision DIY In an older video with the cedar privacy fence you were using Osmo as the finish. How do you like/compare the C2 Guard to the Osmo?
Learned how to do most of my house repairs form Jeff! Who said TH-cam is only chicks in bikinis? Good stuff sir
I bought some stain at habitat for humanity , (20.00 per gallon) one gallon red wood , one Mahogany and one natural ....kept the red solids , little of the solids from the mahogany , left the brown natural out of the third , poured off the rest of the oils out into a bigger container (boxing them together...performed a test to make sure properly obsorbs and dries.....everything working , I proceeded ....looks beautiful!
I’m absolutely blown away!
Also, super happy you upgraded the sawstop to use the Jestson’s engine
Sanding with 220 grit paper and a power sander will actually CREATE mill glaze, not get rid of it! Nothing finer than 80 or 100 grit should be used on a deck. This is standard instructions given on many manufacturer's labels.
Washing the deck with a deck cleaner containing oxalic acid will also get rid of mill glaze.
As a woodworker.. this is false. Can go up to 180-220 for stains, does not create a glaze at all.
@@travisedwards9983 that wood will definitely not go as dark if sanded to that extent
Oxalic acid is the primary ingredient in powdered Barkeeper's Friend.
Hi Jeff, if staining a somewhat weathered deck, would you recommend power washing it first followed by sanding? Thanks for all your videos btw, one of the best renovation channels on TH-cam!!
Don't use a pressure washer - will lift and damage wood fibers. Just use belt or orbital and go down to 120 grit
@@barkleyhunt3227 , it makes no sense to try to hand-sand an existing and weathered deck with cupped and warped boards, especially if it's larger than 300 or 400 sq feet. In most cases, a light powerwashing is the only practical way to remove dirt and algae and prepare for stain. I replanked and stained my large deck (1k sq ft) with pressure-treated wood 6 years ago, and it was overdue for cleaning and restaining; I tried cleaning it with a rented industrial floor cleaner with a big, coarse rotating brush but that wasn't sufficient (and hard to control) and so I did end up using a small pressure washer on it, which was kinda slow but worked well. After drying for 3 days it took stain extremely well, soaking up a semi transparent stain like a sponge, so that I had to go back and forth over it several times. I'm 65 and If I had tried to individually sand every damn deck plank I wouldn't be able to walk for weeks afterwards! If the lumber quality is any good it should be able to withstand a light pressure washing. Now this might not be true if you're using Redwood and certainly wouldn't be true for Cedar ( I scrubbed my Cedar siding with a brush on a pole before re-staining the house), but for regular pressure treated planking, in shouldn't be an issue, as that shit's pretty tough.
PS, For the benefit of the guy who originally asked a question about power washing, I would not use any commercially sold deck cleaners, most of which are nothing but overpriced bleach. Chlorine bleach is terribly harsh to wood fibers and one of the by-products of bleach plus cellulose is dioxin which is highly carcinogenic. I use a 1/4 cup of Oxyclean crystals dissolved in a gallon of water with a couple dabs of dish soap. Spray that on the deck 1st before you power wash it. It's gentle, nontoxic and virtually harmless and it won't kill your plants or your lawn.
@goodun2974 my thoughts exactly on getting in your hands and knees and sanding a deck that size. Only an idiot would do that with a palm sander. That's nuts. Rent a commercial sander at the least.
Fascinating about bleach and dioxin. Who knew!?! A lot of peeps and manufacturers recommend the use of oxalic acid first. Apparently opens up the pores? Any opinion on that?
@@barkleyhunt3227a belt sander🤣 that’s absolutely some of the worst advice you could give somebody. You don’t want anything that goes in one full spin motion for this stuff. Hello lot of work and uneven boards. Use an oscillating orbital or oscillating only.
How long do you usually wait to stain new pressure treated deck boards ?
Jeff, would you consider doing a meet & greet in Ottawa? I can't believe I've been watching your stuff for years and you've been pumping content out from my neck of the woods! Cheers from Cumberland
Cut, STAIN, lay, stain again - not cut, lay, stain.
None of your open ends are even touched by stain - and the end grain is the part of of a board which absorbs the most water when it rains, and you’re not even touching them with the “penetrating sealer:, not to mention the other sides of the boards you can’t see, and the edges which are close together. Every board has six sides - face, back, edge one, edge two, end one, end two - and you are “protecting” only one of the six sides - and let’s face it, you are applying the product to the only side which will dry out quickly by sun and wind. The other edges (which are in the dark, in humidity, away from the wind, and will remain damp for days after rain) are 100% raw, untreated timber, and your “rot” will start from where you can’t even see it until it has destroyed the boards from the back and worked its way forward.
Trex, cry once!
I apply automatic transmission fluid to cedar/fir fencing with a pesticide sprayer.Takes minimal time and soaks right in. Waterproofs, protects and keeps bugs away. Not to mention it is the cheapest stain/sealer compared to stains and it really brings out the grain and adds great colour.
Transmission fluid?? 🤔
@@Sandra-Armstrong yes automatic transmission fluid will seal and waterproof wood, plus its colour enhances and brings out the natural
Grains in cedar, fir and spruce since they all share a red/orange hue. Its must cheaper than stain too. Added benefit bugs dont like it either so repeals pests. This is old school method which works well and is cost effective. Every so
Many years you have to
Reapply the fluid but just as stains do to.
God help your well water!
Is it toxic ?
Must be great for the environment to just spray atf all over the place. 😳
From a friend and who's a retired paint chemist for one of the biggest names in paint (not PPG, btw): PPG's ProLuxe Stains (not the 'single-coat' stuff, SDR or something), formulated by Sikkens, far out-performed all other stains on the market in an objective comparison a few years ago. That's what he used on his own 30-year-old deck just last year.
Doesn't really matter what you use. It needs to be maintained annually on horizontals.
@@matthoughton1006 If that's the case, the cheaper the better...
@@ItchyKneeSon I mean, not really. It's more about what is designed for easy maintenance, e.g. can be cleaned and recoated over itself without fully stripping the surface. What kind of maintenance do you want ? Penetrating oils just wear off the surface, acrylic coatings are film forming and will blister peel and check which presents a whole other set of issues.
Plenty of oil penetrating stains can't be stacked on top of themselves.
Silkens srd is going to burn off in a year the same as bm arborcoat Armstrong Clark Cabot penofin...what have you
I believe PPG bought sikkens. Sikkens made the best stuff. My resoich has indicated exactly the same thing
@@matthoughton1006wtf does that mean though? "Maintained"? So every single year you have to maintain it. Re-stain it every single year? Please to be explaining. I would honestly greatly appreciate it.
Hey Jeff, love the Chanel I watch daily… just a question… what is the difference between c2 and the Osmo UV-Protection-Oil that you used on your farmhouse deck? Also which is better ? Pros ? cons ? Thanks cheers
How long should I wait before I put a stain/protectant on newly laid pressure treated deck boards?
Great question that needs an answer! 👏👏
What about the wood exposed in the Crack between planks? Also, what about the underside? I was considering at least treating the underside before installation?
Thank you for sharing your info. Short, to the point and very informative.
This was great, thank you I’m going to attempt to do my own deck pray for me😅
Loved the grunt work breathing...Very relaxing . LOL.. Love your videos for years!!!
Hey Jeff, thanks for this video. I am building my deck and I ordered the product you recommended, but C2 paint didn't seem to honor the 20% discount when I reviewed the CC charge. I used the link in the video so I don't understand. I have emailed them but not heard back from them yet. Anyway, thanks for the series of videos, very helpful. Cheers.
I’m surprised by the washing the day of. I get it, but that was a lot of water. Heck, my plan was power wash and scrub weekend 1 and then stain weekend 2 (after dealing with new dirt)
Here's a fun little project that can be a multi-year endeavor similar to Project Farm and Repair Geek's comparisons/reviews: Make a little deck with common lumber, treated and not, and use various products in various applications and just let them sit out in the elements, re-coating some every 1-5 years, and doing nothing with others. Could be a fun one.
Hi Jeff great video. What is the difference between c2 and osmos oil based sealer?
Cheers!
Wow - FAST and EASY! Thank you for the demo
What video were you watching? He was literally on his hands and knees sanding the entire surface (and vertical surfaces) and then cleaning and scrubbing and sanding the spots you missed and then..... This looks like an extraordinary pain in the ass. That would destroy my knees but would be brutal for anyone with a little palm sander. I would rent a commercial sander in .5 seconds (like he indicated). I don't think people realize the impact until they experience being in their knees for that long. And I have great knee pads too.
I am very skeptical that this will increase the longevity of a cedar deck. Even if the product helped, you would have to coat all 6 sides prior to assembling. We had two cedar decks; one stained and regularly restained with a penetrating oil based stain and one left natural. The natural one lasted about 5 years longer. Today's cedar will start decaying at some of the board ends in about 10 years.
Jeff, I've used a few (over several years) solid stains on an old, weathered deck. They never last. I see this as a polyurethane stain treatment. How is this not a "coating" on top of a deck and that it won't peal within a year? I'm at a point it may be time to rip up the deck to put "new" deck boards down. Will this last more than a year or should I replace my deck?
I love this guy good always doing great JOB !!!
Please post an update after 6 years to show the results, then perhaps we'll spend the outrageous $101/gallon (plus shipping).
What if I want to paint the color of my deck? Do I paint first then apply the C2 guard? Could you shed some light on that?
What do you do about the under side of the boards? Water wicks up into the boards.
Hi Jeff, how long after washing the deck should I wait to start staining?
Thanks again.
I'd this for older wood decks that are weathered
Cheers!
I missed the part about waiting every 3 minutes and re-staining? How many times after 3 minutes do you repeat? Also when you finish for the day, will that be it, or do you re-apply a 2nd coat a couple days later? Thanks.
I just finished this job -- I dumped the product into a paint sprayer, attached the compressor hose, and went to town. Overspray everywhere and I don't care. It was awesome and took less than 15 minutes for the whole deck.
question: is it wise to thin down the first coat of an oil base deck finish so that it will soak in the deepest, AND then apply a second coat without thinning at all? this is what I do sometimes, and I may be incorrect.
How long had this deck been down before you sanded and washed?
If working on older cedar deck that has turned gray, can i use a cleaner and/or brightener, then appky the C2 guard?
Or pressure wash then C2 guard?
I need help with an unfinished mahogany door that got drenched with rain during delivery. The stains are dark. I am wanting it to be a dark walnut stain but am afraid the water stains will show thru. Could you possibly upload a video on how to repair and stain water stained wood? Love your videos.
Follow the directions on the can and apply C2 Guard to DRY wood. We are finding this product most effective so far. Prewetting your wood will cause the product to fail. After watching this tutorial, we prewet a small area and applied it there first and noted it's failure to bead water. We contacted C2. To correct this problem we were advised to apply a 3rd coat to that spot and thankfully that solved the problem. We applied 2 coats of the product to dry wood on the rest of the deck according to instructions and it's performing well.
I think he said that he let the deck dry before applying the stain.
Will this maintain the wood smell, too? I just got my deck done and haven't stained it yet, but I love the smell of the wood when it rains!
Love your work. The privacy fence is funny because there are neighbors with second story windows that look right in!! 😂
Hey I stained my deck with a different product. Well it’s peeling in less than a year. If I strip, sand and clean my deck could I apply this c2 guard without a problem? Thanks
Thanks for the vid! I just applied this product to two of my decks. After letting them dry (two coats each) the finish looks faded. Is it okay to do another coat after the product has completely dried?
I look forward to Saturdays to see the progress of this project. I can't wait to see it when all is said and done!
I have a 12x18 pressure treated wood deck that was built 22 months ago with white vinyl railings. I have not been able to seal the deck until now. Would a power wash with deck cleaner be enough or should I also sand? Is the C2 guard a clear sealant and do you think the Olympic Maximum clear sealant to be comparable? Like to know what you think.
We're big fans of the channel and so appreciate all your tips and tricks! This video was particularly timely as we just moved in to our newly built home and need to seal the raw wood on our front porch. However, when I tried to apply the coupon code after adding 4 gallons of C2 Guard for Wood it said the code wasn't valid for the items in the cart. Any idea why? Thanks a bunch!
What if the deck has been previously stained? I power wash…I don’t get down on all fours and sand.
Don't you need to cover the whole board? Sides and back? How do you do that if applying after installation?
Wait how long do wait for the 2nd coat..im all about ready seal..good proof….and with spraying aren’t you getting it all over the place withought tarps..is that good proof
Does this work for fences or is there another video?
definitely. On the fence seen ion this video I used the same product but brush only.
Is there any decking under the furniture? If there is, why did you not stain it first to help prevent the possibility of scratching on other parts of the deck when the furniture is put into place later?
Or having a non stained part of the deck later if you decide to move the furniture around and the deck under the furniture has had a chance to weather without any protection?
Jeff 😳That's an Amazing job ! I watched it all the way Fab..🤛
I've heard you want to sand with no finer than 100 or 120. Finer than that and it keeps the wood from absorbing the stain as well. This is something I've read many places, is that just one of those "common misconceptions" or is it correct?
I'm so grateful I don't live in a neighborhood like that with all the houses crammed so close together. No privacy = no bueno.
Just build a $1500 privacy fence yourself, and you’ll be good!
What about a deck that has NEVER been stained. If it has it doesn't look it! Boards are bleached out. No rot though. Does this sealer come in other stains besides clear? Can you stain over this with a darker stain if you wanted?
I love watching your videos!! I have a porch that has a floor made with marine plywood. It's been installed for about 25 years. Can I use this c2 on my old marine plywood?
Would you also recommend this for a fifteen-year-old pressure-treated deck that has never been treated?
It is now completely grey but it seems to be in good shape.
Thanks!! 🙂
I have the same exact question
Hey Jeff, build pressure treat deck last year. Can i use same procedure sand lightly and then stain? Thanks for video 👍
should be fine. you may need to use a deck wash which is basically bleach first. Cheers!
what alternative product can i use if i cant find c2 guard? possibly something from home depot or rona?
A lot of videos say to let it dry for a few days after washing it, any downside to staining it right after the sun dried the surface like you did?
I did the sprayer and it had to much over spray and just made mess , pump it up and it go all over , went with Wagner sprayer turned out better .
What you have spindles. Should I covert them?
Stupid question. Should the back sides of the boards be quickly coated before installation if you have the option?
Yes! You want all sides to absorb moisture as similarly as possible. If it rains and then the sun dries the top surface, the other surfaces will still be wet and will not repel moisture the same way and vice versa after a light quick rain
Didn’t catch what you said about an old deck that was previously stained. Mine has been worn down and looks like old gray wood. Can I give it a sanding and apply stain as you have here or do I need to do something more thorough?
it looks really easy to apply...my only concern would be will hold up in south florida like it does up north? we have 100 degree days all summer long here
Thanks for sharing! I Just got my balcony installed with Canadian Red Cedar of high grade quality. Does it still needs to be sealed or could it wait after a few years time ? I love the natural look but maybe as a prevention mechanism it might be a smart thing to do. Does the wood need to cure after a certain amount of time after the installation ?
Thanks again!
Hey Jeff, In another video you recommended the Thompson's water seal. Now you have me confused which one should I use? We have moved into a house which has a 5ish years old deck, I've cleaned it and I don't want to color.
cedar and redwood is expensive. What are your thoughts on using douglas fir for deck boards for a deck? I actually like the look better, but is cedar or redwood stronger, even if I do an oil based sealer on the douglas fir?
Great video! Would you recommend a polyurethane as a finish coat or just a water repellent?
Please tell me what product c2paint
and the clear or color you are using in your video?
So, questions... the wood doesn't need to be completely dry before putting the sealer over it?
And, all this wood you used was cedar?
Can you tell me why you chose that wood?
Thank you jeff!!! I am the wife and I recently put in a new porch, I will be using this exact method!! You rock man!!!
What grit sand paper. Is the wood RED CEDAR.
To bad they don't have a product for existing decks. The first "install" for my deck my contractor really hosed the treatment, and now I need to get it back to good. PNW is brutal on exposed wood as well. Thanks for the video.
Love this channel!
Have you used the masonry companion product as well? what about using it on a 2 year old pressure treated fence?
How do you prep PT wood? You aren't supposed to sand it, right?
Do you have another job that is over 5 years you can show us to see how well this method has stood up.
need another 4 years for that. Cheers!
Great video!! I live an area that never seems to get 4-5 nice days in a row without rain...now that it is actually nice out the humidity is too high to stain...if I wait for the "ideal" staining conditions I will never get it done...any advice? Thanks
Yes. Move away from Florida 😋
Massive tarp and a gas heater
thanks for the video ! what is the difference betweeen power wash and light sanding ?
Is double boiled linseed oil a suitable stain for a deck ion the rainy west coast?